Cooking Issues Transcript

Episode 371: A Classic in the Moorland (w/ Nick Strangeway of Hepple Gin)


Hello, everybody, and welcome to a brand new series on heritage radio network called the culinary call sheet where we give a peek into the back kitchen of culinary media. I'm your host, April Jones,

and I'm your co host, Darren bresnitz. Part of why we started the show was to offer an unofficial mentorship for anyone who's interested in learning about all aspects of food and video, whether that's TV, social media online, or just something you want to do for fun.

Absolutely what was once niche or a little silly, as I'm sure you remember, Darren, when we started out, this man has now become such a massive playing field for so many creatives using food as the medium.

It's something that has driven us professionally and personally, for so many years. What excites me the most about this show is that we're going to sit down with some of the industry leaders to hear how they made it and what drew them into this industry.

With 20 years in the culinary production game ourselves. We're hoping we can give through these conversations an insider's view into personal stories from the field, as well as an in depth behind the scenes look into some of the most popular food programming. In today's evolving culinary media landscape.

We'll be covering everything from how to style your food, to how to license IP, to developing your own ideas, and some tips from the masters of how to host your own show.

Yeah, it's a little bit of conversation, how to and how do you do the things that you do in color media, which I'm so excited about? I love so many of the guests that are coming on this season. We have talent from Food Network from Vice media eater refinery 29,

we've met some of the best people in the world both in front of and behind the camera. And we're bringing them all together to share their stories, their delicious adventure and their unique journey into this crazy world.

So to be the first to hear our episodes when they launched this fall, go to wherever podcasts are streaming and hit subscribe and make sure to give us a follow at the Culinary call sheet on Instagram.

This episode is brought to you by TABBERT in New American cuisine in one of Washington DC oldest hotels located in Dupont Circle. For more information visit TABBERT mn.com

This is Dave Arnold host of cooking issues on heritage Radio Network. I've been a part of the HR and community for nine years nine years. Each week I record my show in the HRM studio made from two recycled shipping containers because I'm excited to bring you our listeners the most important stories from the world of food but not really food more like you know whatever and assassin I happen to be doing at that moment. I you know, technical issues all of us here at HR and make food radio because we love it. This year Hrn is celebrating its 10th anniversary but we need your support to keep food radio going strong for the next decade during the engineering community today by becoming a member go to heritage radio network.org/donate Right now you can even show some love for my show by selecting cooking issues in the designation drop down menu and if you hate me but loving Anastasia still do that select cooking issues in the designation drop down menu thanks for listening to Hrn

cooking issues coming to you live on the hairdryer network every Tuesday from you know like 12 or something like this to like you know around one from reversal. Roberta's visa reimbursement Brooklyn joined as usual Anastasia hammer Lopez How you doing good got Matt in the booth What's up I feel great by the way my voice I sound like this because I inhaled a whole lot of fiberglass over the weekend which we if we have time we can get into but so much never heard you stumble on the start so much fiberglass and you know plus at a certain point you're too old to be inhaled fiberglass on the regular

like when you're one

come on one year old can take some fiberglass to the lung. But we have in the in the studio our special guests Nick strange way how you doing? I'm very good. Yeah. I haven't seen you in a while the first time I actually got to spend a lot of time. Do you want to just he makes a gin Hepple gin, he makes it gin. And it's a funky jam. But I think to understand like kind of what's not funkiness. But like in other words, production wise funky. And in order to get into it. Maybe it helps to talk a little bit about kind of your history. Make well oh, by the way, calling your questions gin related or otherwise, to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. So you were a bartender before the big Renaissance.

Yeah, I started bartending in 88 Right so a long time ago, and I've survived

right but the injuries The thing is, is that I think one of the things that's interesting is that not only have you survived, but you've managed to stay kind of at the rolling front of what's going on. So you haven't, you haven't dinosaur it out, you know what I mean? You stayed kind of at the, at the leading edge. Now, Booker and DAX and stuff there. I have a company where the trailing edge technology where the stuff that can fall off the airplane and still flies, that's our motto. But you've managed to stay, you know, kind of at the forefront of what's going on. I remember the first time I hung out with you, to any extent, you were doing, like really kind of you were working with, I think Pernod Ricard at the time, I think you're allowed to talk about it. And it was before you came out with kind of your your limited run. The craft focused on Yeah, but you were working. You were just out working with, I think was furniture one of the big flavor houses, I forget which one it was? Was it furniture? Was it the other one was the other one? Yeah. Trevor, they called? Yeah. But so you know, you've kind of been interested in techniques of distilling and flavor creation through your consultancy company, and then later working, making the vodka. So you you come at this, honestly. And like, from a for a long time working on these kinds of problems. And from the heart. That'd be accurate. Yeah, I think

so. I mean, I think it's very easy to get bored in the bar industry. And luckily, this results came along and I wasn't at the forefront of it. I was always there. And it kept me motivated. It kept me interested. Otherwise, I would have stopped and gone and done something else if I get bored, or don't do something else. And it's boredom that drives me to do things.

That's good for me. What is it that drives us? And Stassi? No, no, no, no, no, no. We'll figure it out. If

you lose interest in what we've continued doing. I mean, I'm lucky Touchwood. And mate, long continue. I don't do things I don't like to

write. I mean, there's a thing about cooking in general, right? Bar cooking, where you have to be able occasionally to Zen out and just produce. Yeah. And I mean, otherwise, this is the wrong industry for you.

Yeah. I mean, very, very early on. I enjoyed going for walks. I know that's an odd thing to I mean, I live an unhealthy lifestyle. I drink and I smoke, and I do many things that are unhealthy. But going for a little walk through the city, and picking things and tasting things that you find along that walk. He was he can forage in the city. That was very early on. Something that really intrigued me and gave me the headspace. We don't get in the city. I think it's very easy to caged in.

Tell me about it. Yeah, Miss Darcy. And I think both have a love hate relationship with our with our fine city, which I still love New York. But you know, just sucks. Yeah,

I'm lucky I now live in Denmark. So I commute into the city. I go into London, maybe twice a month. I get my fix of the city and I then get the hell out there.

Speaking of forage, you know, the existing conditions. I don't know if they haven't today at our bar. We currently have a New York City forage. I tried. It's really good. Thanks. Yeah, linen linens in Oh, cool. And so, you know, if you're walking down the street of a city, and you're like, what's that smell and it's pleasant. There's a good chance in temperate regions. I mean, we're not like a honeysuckle kind of an area or like wild rose bushes or whatnot. Linden flowers. Amazing. Smell right linens are amazing. Yeah, so we nitro model the Linden into a light because it's a light flavor into clematis. Because it's light. And simple. That's it. Like Linden. Simple lemon and simple is good. Yeah, simple is always good. I know. All right. So you want to describe your describer? You we actually do have a caller on the line. You want to hit that first. Alright, let's see what they let's see. Caller Is this a, a gin or a cooking or just a random rant related question?

It is a cooking related question.

All right, what do you got for me?

On a podcast a while ago, you mentioned getting into a tiff with some well known chefs about the use of tongues. Is it more than an aesthetic issue or I wanted to understand the pros and cons, but

so it was my brother in law while they do frame Dave Chang and a number of other people on the anti Tom side. And I think what it is, is that generation IE, they're all my age or younger, you know, my age, are you around my age, that generation. You know, I think that they just saw the tongs as a sign of disrespect it that someone would go grab, let's say the example they always say, well, you're gonna get a big, get a nice piece of fish, and you're gonna grab it with the tongs and flip it destroy. They're just like, No, that's not what tongs are for doesn't mean tongs have don't have a place in the kitchen. So I think, you know, they saw a bunch of younger cooks that they deemed sloppy, who were using the tongs in ways that damaged food right now, they're not talking about like at home on your grill, you know, moving stuff around with tongs like that, but you know, they're talking in their kitchens when so Someone's like flipping a piece of fish, they wanted to see a fish spatula, maybe if you needed extra support a spoon or something over it, gently flip it over. And they didn't want to see kind of, you know, you know, roughed up roughhousing with the tongs. And that was their main gripe, my only issue with tongs is, is that if you should ever make the mistake of going into a deep fryer with tongs once and then lifting your hand up, and having the hot oil run down the inside channel of the tongs, down your wrist, you'll never make that mistake again. So tongs can have their dangerous aspects to for sure. But I mean, I mean, come on, Tom. So am I right? I don't know. I'm very I'm pro tongs. I'm also pro, you know, telling people in your kitchen flip fish the way you want. You know what I mean? Don't rip things about with tongs. But whatever. Alright, so you have a spritz bottle. First of all, you have your gin, we'll have the gin then you have three bottles of water of not water of water clear, I'm assuming distillate Yep. And a spritz bottle. So what's going on here?

Well, when we started making the gin, I think there's a too much respect for tradition in the distilling business, and most technology that has been used as 19th century technology. And like you as an earlier adopter of relative apps and distilling under pressure. And we decided we're going to always use a road map. At some point, we weren't going to throw away the baby with the bathwater. So we've got a couple of potstill, we run distillate through that, which has a certain character, then we run a road map. And then one of my partners is a guy called Cabri. Hill, who's actually the guy who introduced relative apps to me and Tony and variously throughout the world. And he had always been banging on about this technology that I still don't totally understand, called supercritical gas extraction. Yeah, good stuff. So we combine all three bits of technology. And what we find is it creates a full of flavor, and we get flavors you can't get via traditional distillation, traditional distillation is limited, but essential.

So with the supercritical, you're doing like supercritical co2, then then putting that base into what.

So we do Juniper through our supercritical gas extract, which we then hauled into ethanol, and then mixing at the end. So we basically make a London dry gin on the pasta with 11 botanicals, and it's fairly classic and style, then we run six botanicals separately, through the vacuum still blend those in. And then we blend the supercritical gas extract him as well.

So without giving away any trade secrets, no trade secrets. Well, like so like, of, of I know, you're probably a 700 cl guy, but for 750 person like myself, what percentage of that is potstill product, what percentage of that is

it'll be approximately 70% potstill coming off it. And then the other bits go in, there's probably 15% is coming off the, the vacuum stills, and then the rest is co2, the co2 is very, very small.

You can it's super strong.

It's just insane. I mean, it's ridiculous stuff. And this is our that is this is the co2 extract. So if we put a kilo of juniper into our co2 Extract, we'll pull off and I'll have to talk in milliliters rather than answers, we'll probably get 25 milliliters or pure oil. I don't really know what it's exactly. It's coming off there. But and that will go into about a liter and then that'll go across six or so 600 bottles or so. It's super pokey.

Yeah. And that's it. So how diluted is this stuff,

this is diluted down so that I could get in to the US having the rubber gloves on in immigration. It was that's diluted down about half and half 68 ABV. And it's still super bulky. I mean, the first again, I don't really understand the technology. I mean, I learn things. I'm an autodidactic. So I will learn things in the stupid way. So when we first tested the machines, I was hesitant and disbelieving of it. And we went into a laboratory in Newcastle. And they turned on this machine, which is a very unimpressive looking piece of technology. It looked like an old Amstrad computer case. And some buttons made things a bit of noise. And when the lab technicians went out a little drip started to come off this little needle and I put it on my finger and then stuck it in my mouth. Idiot. But it's the way I learned. You know, it's not how I encourage people to learn things by doing it like that. But I couldn't taste anything apart from Juniper for about a week. It was so intense for flavor.

I have made the same error with straight flavor compounds and it's it can be

Yeah, it's not the way to do it. But you do understand the effect of it if you do it that way. Yeah, I did

that once with methyl anthranilate which is the fake without fake Concord grape aroma, and I got it all in my mouth is straight chemical in my mouth and It messed me up. Yeah, for like a

week. And yeah, it takes a long time to get I mean, you know, I think we did some gas chromatography or on our different parts of distillation. So we ran juniper and our potstill, we ran it in the vacuum still. And we ran it through the co2 extract. And if we ran our potstill efficiently, we could extract about 60% of the flavor compounds in and we were changing compounds, because obviously we're cooking. When we went in the vacuum, still, we can get to 70%. And with less change, because again, the woman to co2, we can get 90% efficiency,

do the part people use supercritical co2.

They use it when you guess that's when when, when I was looking to buy my technology, I get kept getting led to California and websites. Yeah. And they're using it to extract THC. Yeah,

I mean, that's what's interesting about it. So to me is that, you know, for years back when I was at the French culinary, which, you know, I haven't been actively in a long time, you know, we were always looking for, there was two things we were always looking to do extract flavors, separate flavors, that's basically nine out of 10 or, you know, extract, you know, solids liquid. That was always the game mix, you know, with a lot of the or create textures. That was the other game, you know, what I mean that we're playing with these kinds of new techniques, and I'd always wanted to have supercritical co2 but the price was just out of like out like no one was doing it on a pilot level. And even the pilot machines were built for labs that were going to do it bigger so they weren't inexpensive and I'm really not expensive but really, even within shooting distance, you know, any reasonable and DIY and with the pressures involved in Siemens such a smart idea because you know, pressures are high very high super high and and so you know, once again, I mean, thanks to the drug industry, potheads because I think the more potheads want to do this on a smaller scale, the more chefs and bartenders are going to be able to use this technology I mean, like you can get a rig down now for like 10 grand right or something like this and

I think I was I was this a fairly cheap one else was 50. But don't they make an

even smaller pothead one for they will

do. I think, I think we're getting with all that technology, the more that people use it, I mean, rotor bats were prohibitively expensive when I started using them,

they're still they could be, they could be cheaper. I've always wanted to build one. Yeah, it's just the markets not that high. I already have enough P I have enough trouble. The Stasi right or wrong, we have enough trouble getting people to use a center for users with a training. Imagine the training that goes with a roadmap to get the flavors you want out of it to really control the roadmap. The training is just

there's there's a cool place in London now called crucible and whether you've been to crucible in London's set up by a guy called Stu bail, who used to work for me and Tony see in the past. And he's basically gone out and bought a road map, a centrifuge, and bartenders can rent them by the hour now now like and he'll give a training on it. So when you go in there, you join as a club. And then you have to go through a training thing. And then you can go use it whenever you like,

I haven't seen him in years. I haven't seen him back since back when he was at 69 Colebrook rallies doing good as crazy as ever because he still had like he always has that like characteristic like little

gray but going through his eyebrows. Yeah, he's still got that.

Wild, how can you lose that? Like, let's say let's say your eyebrow came in all of a sudden black one day you're like, well, that's not meaning. That one little bit article, so we're gonna take this

Yeah, we should do well, what I brought it in, I brought in the potstill which is basically London dry gin, to see where we start, and then you can see how it evolves.

And then what is this one water to

this is a 43 Everyone's gonna get 43 And that's what

you that's what your bottle proof is.

That's what the bottle proof is. We it took us two years to come up with the recipe. We it took us two years to get the funding. So while we were getting the funding, we were coming up with recipes. This is fairly standard. I think when we started I would have probably made a slightly murkier more forage feral gin. And then as time went by, I started noticing that every now the USP on Agenda Jason the stick an extra botanical in and actually USP,

yeah, for those of you that don't know that unique selling proposition.

And as time went by, I started to realize actually, the gyms I really liked, were the ones that have stood the test of time, the Beefeaters the tank, race, diplomas, etc. They've been around for 100 years. And we're fairly classic. And they were about Juniper, right?

And also like, the more the closer, you hit one of those things, the more versatile it's going to be for someone that because the thing is if you're if your gym is whey, very different, right? It's going to work in a couple cocktails, you get people to make a signature cocktail with it. But I mean,

I think what tends to happen again, when you look at those genes is when you mix with them, one of the botanical skews and becomes forward and it's never the Juniper, or very rarely in some of the older classic jeans is but in more of the modern jeans, as soon as you add vermouth or tonic water, whatever simple mix, you're adding to it. It'll be the card When that pops out or whatever esoteric botanical, they've decided to put in, spins out. And actually Juniper is the heart of gin. We have our own Juniper an island. So the Juniper was always an inspiration. So it became much more it became focused back in on the Juniper.

Let's bring it let's take these other things and come back to the junior places. I was saying something before we started about Juniper problems.

Yes, this is this is opportunity to talk about this is green juniper. From our plants. Juniper problems, the Juniper problems are twofold. In the UK, they're not so much in America, but a little bit like for Luxor in the 19th century, there are a couple of things that are wiping out Juniper across the UK, there's a little insect bug, something that's eating it. And there's also a mold type thing that's killing it. We're really lucky, we're in the middle of a national park. We have a military shooting range, one side of us, so nobody goes there. And then the other side is basically big Marlins that are owned privately. So there's no way that people can get this shit into our land now from

from an American perspective, because we've heard this all the time. What the hell is more exactly?

The more thing is probably unique to the UK. There are Oh imagine in Scandinavia a few more. So it's mainly if you imagine what Scotland looks like. Yeah, that is more than generally. It's a lot of Heather. A lot of Bracken wild blueberries built blueberries they called in the UK, so like shrubby? Yes, yes. The shrubs tend to grow to about half a metre, a couple of feet high. Yeah. And it tends to change color constantly goes really bright green in the summer due to the blueberry plugs or the blueberries or really vivid green and almost acid green color. And it's sitting down on peat. So Peters decayed plant matter that's been sat and compressed, acidic soil is an acidic soil in general. The Juniper oddly doesn't particularly like the acidic soil. So it will grow where we have it's growing in stands on water causes where the acidity isn't quite so high. And the junipers we have, I believe, will be five or 600 years old. Whoa, yeah, I mean that most people name their stills, Myrtle or whatever they are. Juniper plants are named. Wow. So we have Miriam, who I think is approximately 500 years old. At the base, she is about three or four feet across.

Now, when I'm used to like American ornamental Juniper, which is not such an ageist or magisterial thing, yeah. Are these are they still because of where they grow? Are they low and spread out? Are they

the weather where we are? It's particularly horrendous. I mean, it's sometimes stunningly beautiful, but it's pretty wild. And it's not massively cold, but it's horrendously windy, so they tend to be growing inside little valleys, and they are hunkered down against the elements. They are twisted and old and they follow the contours of the land. If you go to go to Italy, you'll see Juniper growing and it's beautifully grounded and uprights, like you know, a lot of it looks like the typical Italian rarer out hours are wizard and old fiends and hags of the more that sits low into the hill as by style like that, but they have a unique flavor that the one you just tasted is the green, which nobody has, again, I think one person started using green Jr. But we use the green because the green, the Juniper takes two and a half years to ripen on the bush, it only ripens on the female bushes. There are males and females we have a lot of males who are only active once a year. And for the rest of the year, they don't do very much. And it's the females that you want. Do you even bother naming the male ones? The males have no names. It's only females who have names. Yeah. But because of the age of this Juniper, or these Juniper plants, they are unique. And the green has a there's a certain when you smell the green. It has some sort of like sandal woody aroma. I don't know what they call it in Roman Catholic Church where you swing those. It has that it reminds me of going into a Catholic Church.

Yeah, which technique was this was that's vacuum distillate Catholic. It's got that fresh? Yeah. Like all their note, you know what I mean?

Yeah. And it's there. And I think, you know, when we've seen the GCMS, we've we're capturing about 70% of the flavor compounds

is there those of you that never used a vacuum seal before, it's got two main advantages one you get, you know, As Nick said, a very high capture rate of the flavors involved. Also, you're under vacuum. So there's almost no oxidation of compounds and there's little to no depending on how you're running it. Little to no heat. So it's the I mean, I haven't tasted supercritical, but of the stuff that you can normally accomplish. It's kind of always got the freshness, the high notes, all of that stuff, which is which is very nice. Now I'm interested. So tree to tree, how different is the flavor even like with the same varieties? Is it like a mulberry tree where two trees one is garbage and one's delicious?

Well, no, I mean, they tend to ripen at different rates. So again, we're fairly lucky that because the distillery is in the heart of of where we produce a lot of botanicals, we can taste them during the course. And we had two years to run up to it. So we saw them over the seasons. And so we now harvest at specific times of year where we think the flavor is right. From bush to Bush, I don't think there's a huge amount of difference, or not enough that it will become critical to us.

And when you see green Juniper is never gonna go away,

it will go, it will go black the following year. So we don't harvest our black juniper berries to use in the gin, we harvest them to propagate more Juniper bushes. So we have a propagation program because of the diseases that can things that were obviously paranoid about it. So we now have several 100 plants in propagation. From the blackberries, we let the animals take back and we propagate.

So then there are the other one, the more standard, where are you sourcing those from? Does it matter, do you it does

make a big difference we source so in the potstill. We run Macedonian and Italian Juniper, we chose those two because we like the flavor profile of them. And we also, to be honest, I didn't particularly like the flavor profile of our black gene variants. I think they'll have a place at some point. But they didn't taste as robust. The green, the green was very, very distinct.

Their regular Juniper is great. And cooking is wonderful.

Yeah, it's really, really well, I

think it's under use in cooking.

I mean, where I am, because I'm based in Denmark. So in the Scandinavian regions, you'll find it cropping up constantly. Now, it's one of the prevalent flavors.

Stassi you get it that much here in the US? No, no, no. Do you like it? I like it. Yeah.

So what actually we're talking about the Juniper. So this is the co2 Extract, as we use it. So this has been watered diluted way the hell watered way the hell down in my strangely. I don't know what to describe that as urine colored bottle.

For Americans country to eliminate Yeah.

That's a more polite way of saying it.

Yeah, it's got a kick to it. Yeah.

It's like, it's also got more of kind of a, like a black pepper note. And then the other not black, you know, like a peppery note in the back is that just, it's the same proof. So it's not the alcohol, it's,

it's just the thing is, through distillation, you're not getting sugars and oils. Through co2 extraction, we take the sugars and the oil. So it gives a mouthfeel, which is different, I think, due to the oils and the sugars, and the flavor profile is drastically different to any of our distillation techniques.

Now, let me ask you, speaking of distillation, right, so there is in, okay, I just put it this way, in the industry, in every industry, there are things that get a bad name for a good reason. And then people can't get around why those things got a bad name. And so they can't wrap their head around someone using something for a good reason. So I've always said this, is that if you're doing something to make the product better, then you're doing a good thing, if you're doing it to make it simply to make it cheaper than you're doing a bad thing. Now, there are a lot of people who are against extract based gyms, right, because it's seen as the kind of fake adulterated bathtub variety, where he just buying chemicals and making a gin. Now, someone who doesn't kind of understand what you're doing, could see the use of supercritical extracts as extract based gin making, I would argue that you're just trying to control the flavor even more. And clearly, it's not making it any cheaper,

donate doesn't make it cheaper, it makes it more expensive,

right. But do you have that problem? Do you have to explain that to people adding extracts as opposed to only being a distillate? Do you have these purist? Or are we are we thankfully moved beyond that?

I think we start I mean, I think we're starting to move beyond that. I think the gin category or the way they categorize juniors, London dry being seen as the epitome and the height of good quality gin is a fairly archaic idea.

Yeah, I was just having this argument yesterday. Like, why do you even have to call something London dry? If it's not London dry, then tell me something. I mean, it's like because it's the standard.

It's the standard way of doing everything. And it's using, you know, 19th century technology, in many cases, very crudely. I think, the more we talk about using technology, and the more it's a little bit like the food business now a lot of cutting edge technology in the food business was first used in the cheaper end of the food business for properties of cost. Yeah. Whereas when you put it in the hands of the guys that know more or Bulli or whoever it Heston, it's seen as being creative and genius. You put it in the hands of one of the big fast food chains, and it seems been the evil is who's

well all during the early 2000s. That was the fight that was the fight to show that using technology in the kitchen or in bar, as long as you're used. doing it for the right reason you're doing an honorable thing. And it was a huge fucking, like a lot of the old guard back then were just, they would beat on you. You know what I mean? Like, they would beat on you call you industrial call? Yeah. You know, I mean, like,

everything is industrial. I mean, again, industrial has negative, but if it's industrious, it's not a negative. I mean, I think we have to talk about technology, technology is important. It adds flavors that I cannot get through tradition. And I'm interested in flavors. So if you're interested in flavors, whether you like them or not, it's a different thing. But the creation of flavors and the exposure of flavors through technology, it's got to be a good thing,

right? Especially if, if your goal, which is what I'm getting off, your goal is not to produce something with a bunch of different flavors from what Jen would normally have. Right? Because that's been done by a million people. And you're not out to just try to make you know, I'm gonna remake before I'm gonna read that Beefeater or remake tank. You know what I mean? Like, you're not going to, by the way, Gordon's two people drink Gordon's anymore. Anyway.

I mean, there's nothing wrong with it. It's the right ABV. Yeah, so cheap and 37 and a half. And

that's, that's Yeah, yeah. What you're trying to do is make something that is gin flavored was a different like with it, and like, like you say, with unique selling proposition and you know, I feel very simpatico with that, because I'm not trying to necessarily make things that are wacky. I just want to do it the way I'm doing it to get the flavor, right. Yeah,

I'm off to flavor. I'm interested in flavor. I mean, the reason I like the Bible is because it deals with flavor. I like the food world as well, but I'm not as good as a chef.

Alright, we're gonna take this call and then we're gonna taste the gin altogether.

This episode is brought to you by TABBERT in TABBERT. In Washington DC is quintessential Hotel is located on a quiet tree lunch Street, just five blocks from the White House. Vibrant yet unassuming. The Tavern is comprised of 40 sleeping rooms, each unique and character and design based on an eclectic American cuisine in their acclaimed restaurant, or enjoy a cocktail and listen to live jazz and one of their cozy Victorian seating areas, mingle with travelers from around the world to find the tab or the only place to stay when taking their travels to Washington. For more information, visit TABBERT en.com.

Call Are you on the air? I hear it's urgent.

Hi, it is a bit urgent. Thanks for taking my call. I'm sorry, Najin question which is cooking issue and a wedding issue. So I'm getting married at the end of the month. And we're definitely going to get a bunch of different charcuterie including I'm leaning towards the story on him. I know

you have issues with that. The hammer is great. I don't like the name. Right?

We just wanted something American but with Yeah, that European style that we can fly is really, really, really thin. The issue is that because of the venue, we have storage and transportation issues, so we're gonna have to do it ahead of time for all the charcuterie but I'm particularly worried about the hammer because you know, it's thin and it can dry out. And I just want to make sure what would you say is like the maximum time and the best storage opportunities that we can try and do for that? Yeah, like and we can't put we don't have like a vacuum, like save or anything like that.

Right? So by the way, I had some delete, do you not? Did you get it through? Like okay, full disclosure, Patrick Martin's Heritage Foods is the founder of this radio network. But did you buy it through? Did you buy it through heritage or did you get it directly from Sam Edwards?

I haven't bought it yet. So if you haven't suggested when I was about to pull the trigger on that, like this week, as soon as possible,

not to push the you know, the house brand here but Patrick Patrick Martens and heritage foods, they get a lot of heritage fried meat, that's their deal, right. And a lot of the things that they get are like very nice, very highly marbled. And over the past five, six years, they've been selling raw hams to some of the better producers so your, your new Sims, which is Nancy Mahaffey, who was at the bar the other day, which is a fantastic ham. And also Sam Edwards is Siriano and he has a couple others but then typically those ones a lot of them are sold back to and distributed by Heritage Foods. So if you want an American ham, kind of an American taste, but you really want like a highly marbled like really kind of anxious ham, I have tried a bunch of them and they are delicious. So like to see what they see what they have and also Patrick will guarantee the age on a ham. So you know he likes to take ones that are a year better. So that you know once you get over about a year, they start slicing better, they're not going to be as wet and this is going to be an issue for you. If you take a nine month old ham and slice it it will slice fine him right now. But on storage, it will gum up a lot more than like a ham, it's age for a year. Likewise, a ham that has more fat, as long as you don't get it hot, has more fat but is more aged will tend to hold better once it's sliced than one that is, you know, got more moisture and less fat. That's just life. That's how life works. But now, I also have to say obviously, that like in the world of slice things, you'd rather have someone slice your salmon for you right now and eat it. You'd much rather have that than buy prepackaged sliced, you know, locks or Nova in my in my book, you know, if you've never had someone slice Nover locks for you and then eaten it right away. You have not had the proper smoked salmon. But ham is similar, not quite as bad, but don't despair, your main problem is going to be separating them out. And if you can get like that waxy butcher paper, you've got to get the one cut right Bran wax paper that you buy in the supermarket is not durable enough and the moisture in the ham will wrinkle it and then it'll get nasty get the get nice stuff like a butcher would use and, or like like depose here in New York or Delhi has. And if you layer the slices consistently, you can overlap them a little bit and they should peel apart. But you overlap them and then always have the one layer on paper and not on the other you will be able to separate them and present them nicely on a theme. But that's really the only way to do it. So you get them on the paper. You can then fold the paper like triptych style as long as you're never folding ham on him ever. And then wrapping that excluding the oxygen from it so that the the fat doesn't oxidize. And you should be able to keep it in relatively fine feather for for the big day. Got it? Awesome. Anything else for the wedding? You're not catering yourself? Are you please tell me you're not.

I am not catering. But I set it up like productions that I do in Los Angeles. So I'm kind of used to the vendor thing. I will say that, like you. I also never called my inlaws by name. And my mom was super mad when she they found out a couple years back. So I totally understand that.

Well. Yeah. I mean, it's just like, once you don't do something you've got to dig in. You know, yeah, I get certain things. I'm too old to change, you know, like, anyway, I gotta have a good time. I hope it all works. Well let us know how the ham was. Will do. Thank you very much. All right.

All right. So let's taste this gin. Yeah, so this is the this is the finished product. So this is the six different vacuum distillate some of the repeats. So again, some of the thing is, and I think I like it when I make cocktails as well as I like layering the same flavor in different iterations over the top of all to increase the amplitude of that particular flavor, whether it be black currents or whatever. So if I make a black current drink I'll generally use black current two or three times in a drink. Right I suppose more of that flavor

right lot less if you add a bunch of different things. It's just

good. Just muddling things up. Becomes murky and cloudy. Yeah. Shotgun mixing, I call it and then the main thing is it's very classic jet kind of water and someone

want to see what tastes like when it waters hears it. So by the way, hopefully we're not making any mouth noises. We had a comment question in from last week's show. Can you read that one and stop? Yeah. Oh, my goodness. You should. You should take a gander. While you're pouring this. I'm going to read this. Nick. Oh from Cincinnati writes in. Zooming back for one second. This is not unique. This is Niko from Cincinnati. I've never been to Cincinnati.

Cincinnati. No, but my friend is

oh, your friends a violinist in Cincinnati. You know, all I can think about now that you can put music in Cincinnati in my head and I got Wk ARP going through my head. Now the song is going through my head. Sorry, I won't sing it for you. Because my voice is not up to singing some blues to it there. So hey, Anastasia, I'm looking to buy a sizzle, which is a piece of equipment that Anastasia and I manufacture. But the replacement screens seem absurdly expensive 25 to $30 for some little metal screens. At the moment, this is the only thing keeping me from buying question. What makes Sears all screen so expensive? And too? Are there any plans to do something to bring down the price? Well, Nick, the short answer is, is it is this is going to be unbelievable to you. But literally half the manufacturing price of the entire unit is that one little metal screen. They tend not to break in home use by the way, like very rarely do they burn out and that's one of the reasons they're so expensive. First of all, the rear metal screen is not any normal alloy. It's Incoloy or Inconel and forget 693 is the rear whether it's cinco lawyer and canal it's it. It was a metal that was developed for Arizona based technology to be in the back and have, you know, Turbo jets for the exhaust nozzles prior to the development of ceramics for the same thing, so no one uses high technology, high temperature metals in that application anymore. So there's almost literally no market for this metal in the world anywhere. It's made by a corporation called specialty metal, specialty metal would not make wire for us. So it's the only metal that we were able to find that could withstand the heat. So we had to find someone in China who would do a knockoff alloy of this super metal that's no longer used by anyone and was never used in screen formation, then have them make it into a screen. But we're not done yet. That still was not. That's not even all of the cost. That's like half of that cost. The other part is, is that we found that they were still burning out even with the 693 in it. So we have them electric coated electroplated with palladium, and palladium ain't cheap, and electroplating with palladium ain't cheap. Now, it is possible in the future, we'll be able to bring the price down a little bit because currently, we were not able to sort source and industrial palladium producer. So it's literally someone who coats jewelry with Palladium is what we use. So half the cost of the entire thing for us is that little screen in the back but the good news is we've done a lot of work on that little screen, and odds are unless you're really burning in a lot, it's not going to break. We say it's accurate. And secondly, Matt, they don't Nick does not want us to do pledge drives on this program anymore unless you buy airtime which is a strong idea. I like that. And then the last thing is the next thing the Cook's Illustrated guy Paul friend of the show Paul the next thing Paul eats on Mike can be my buddy he is the A version of but but he says the next thing eats on the aircon on Mike can be my buddy Dave friends fed and pretzels from an MRE for some reason and the sociopath just lean right into the mic and chew disgusting please bad Paul. I had to turn the podcast off that guy ruined my commute

Wow indefensible I also went in for a good hard chew on

why are you admitting that now? Nick's gonna come and get

you I mean he can try and kick me off the show but that's not I mean Okay.

Anyway so real real world world repercussions. Nick says I have access to military Mrs. and was ready to offer to send some but nevermind now. Tell Dave to look for omelet Mrs. They're by far the worst. I believe that oh my god omelets on omelets that have been held for a long time or just oh, I had an airplane omelette again recently, because Blaze came on. I remember Blaze came on. And I forget what it was but he was like all United's omelet, and I was like, I'm pretty sure that's gonna be garbage. Good. And he was like, Well, I'm in first class. I was like, You chunk

it but struggles on it. That's a chunk.

He was fun on the show. But that's a chumpy thing to say. I had an omelet on united the other day. So it's rubbish. Yes. So bad. Alright, so let's

take your own food.

So this is the gin water that's been watered down. Yeah, the structure is still there. It still tastes like gin. It still tastes like gin. It still tastes like judo. You know that pepper hit in the back from that supercritical stuff's really still there.

Yeah, a little bit goes a long way. A little bit goes a long way since the

Stasi is going to spray that that straight stuff in her mouth.

I wouldn't suggest breaking your mouth. You can wear it as perfume. I've got it spritzed on me.

There's a whole bunch of Okay, now here's another thing. You hear this a lot. I'm sure people like maybe me pine. Juniper is don't taste like pine trees. Really? I mean, if you've ever eaten a pine tree, which Anastasia and I have, you don't I mean, it has a different flavor to the different flavor. Resume notes in Juniper. There are piney notes in Juniper but pine trees, there are similar

terpenes in both Yeah. And Juniper is of the coniferous family. Yeah, but it's a little bit like saying a lemon tastes like a lime. Yes, they do taste similar. Yeah, they are not the same.

Or like a lemon. Tastes like a lemon leaf. Yeah, you know, because then when people think of pine, they're thinking of the needles, which like I love it, but it has a very pine needles, spruce needles, pine needles have a very kind of polarizing hard resin hit the Juniper. Juniper doesn't have as much of that hard resin hit would you say?

It definitely is softer than the pine I think again, I we use Douglas fir in our gin and we also make a Douglas fir vodka. And it depends how you treat your botanical, what flavors you extract from your botanical. So if you start to dry pine, you'll get more estuary sort of notes come off and you get these very ripe tropical so the notes come off once the drying process starts and then you have to rest the drying process to capture those flavors. If you take it straight off the trees. This as people imagined pine

Yeah, I'm gonna go didn't say that I hope Anastasia and I never have to distill another pine tree.

That was fun. I love to sew in pine trees.

We had to buy the pine tree. Take it, you know, take it up to our, our lab in major air quotes was a garbage room and rip all the needles off by hand. Well, all of these prospective students were coming by. And they were like, I don't know, second Christmas, my mind.

Like if you want yeah.

Wow. And then like, you know, we're sitting there, how many hours it take us to distill that and poultry.

But you know where you aren't. I mean, Dave You know how when you're in a taxi cab, and the taxi cab driver is on the phone with somebody, and you're like, and sometimes like, it'll just be like a conversation, then it'll drop and it'll be silent when they get back on. And then they start talking again. That like if I were a taxi driver, you would be the person on the other end of the phone.

What do you mean, I don't even understand what that means. I'm saying that

even if we're like taking down a tree we're still talking about stuff and laughing

Yeah, but other random stuff your route very random. So you're saying taking a tree down is equivalent to driving a taxi?

Yes. Yes, you are. Yeah, you are my person on the other foot.

Speaking of random things just asinine. We're at an event last night city out there for very long anyway city Meals on Wheels is a good event. And by the way, Nick is here for bar convent. Brooklyn, you can come chat with him about he just want to make sure I say this. Ford's over come chat with him about Hepple great product. He'll be there. I went when?

After the show. And then I'm that tomorrow again.

Alright, go say hello. It's it's where the talk guy knows a lot. Anyway. So I'm at this event yesterday, right? And we're serving Kendra Hata. You know, her drink. The Sunday brunch was a gin based drink. We were using. We're using jairs Jen Sipsmith. He was a sponsor Mega. And by the way, if you had a slow I like his slow drop quite a lot. We did it we took his say slow gin is relatively low in sugar. So I did two ounces, which is 60 mils for you, of the SLO. And then just three ounces, 90 mils, of water, carbonated and just like that at the event just for just for giggles, and put a lemon twist over the top of that. onpoint This was great.

Slow is great. Everybody thinks slow is a winter drink. Yeah, no, we've just made it slow. I think we mix it with cherry on top of the tonic water. And it's my favorite summer drink

here. It's good. Well, I think it's convenient. For those Americans that remember it, it tastes like poison because we've only had bad sweets overly sweet, really sweet. And like, you know, I don't know, like probably made with SLOs and had been boiled to oblivion into some sort of pastry jelly

and probably not put on gin either. They probably put on neutral as well. What were called slogans, were not gin at all they

had. Yeah, but I know for those of you that have never had a proper slogan, when you're coming out with your as soon

as available in your, we'll be doing another harvest this year. So we might come over here,

right? So if you if you don't if you don't can't find Next, search out Smith. It's good product. Yeah. Anyway, so we're at this event yesterday, and get into the heart of the story. And dude drops in glass, we're here for that. Do Drops a glass right in front of my station. Now when you're working at an event, right? Usually, it's not always easy to get around your station to the front, you know what I mean? It's kind of like, you're barricaded, and there's a bunch of people that your station, dude shatters the glass. And he makes the classic mistake of trying to pick up the glass for you. I'm like, I'm like, stop, stop. Like, don't you know what I mean? Like, and, and I want you to, and I do the same thing because you want to help as a guest or as a customer, however you call yourself. Please don't do that. Like, here's what you don't understand. I don't want you to do that. Not really, because I care about you. i Theoretically care about you, in general, right? But like, in reality, what it is, is, is that if you cut yourself, my day just got so much worse. You know what I mean? Like, what do you say about this?

I mean, it's one of the times when I shout at customers, if they're about to do something that will hurt them.

Yeah. And again, not because I know you I probably don't, I don't want anyone to get hurt, but I really don't want you to be bleeding everywhere during my service, because then we're really going down, you know what I mean? So step away, and let that to the professional. Leave it to the professionals. So then I'm moving the trash of littering. I'm like, I'm like fending off this guy where it was a bad break through like lots of big curved pieces to get straight up and people walking around with because it's summery here with their open toes and all of this stuff like I gotta get out and so like I'm pulling the trash can out so they can get out behind my station and a lady's so interested in throwing away her plate of garbage from Morimoto next door, who was the chef next door that as I'm doing it, she still throws it and just throws this pleat of like old sauce all over my pants. And I'm like, really, really, really, really 48 years on this planet and this is what this is this is it for your any like, you don't I mean, people have some respect for the person that's trying to serve you. That's all I'm saying.

And saving you watching yourself.

Yeah, yeah. How do we even get on it? Why don't want to talk about that? I don't know. Okay, we gotta go. No, no, we're not gonna go. We're staying later. That's it. That's it. Okay. Right, Matt?

I allow it.

All right. So I have a couple questions. But first, so I'm getting rid unfortunately, of my house in Connecticut. So I'm no longer gonna have any outside of the city space to think about. And it was a real strong outside of the city was like forests, and like, you know, deer, snakes, toads, the whole, whole nine yards, SassaFrass everywhere. You could, you could make filet for months. lindera benzoin, which is an interesting little barrier that no one uses because it's not crass. But it's which stands for generally regarded as safe, but has been used for centuries. Anyway, so because I have to condense all of my books into one place, which is an apartment in New York, for the first time in my life, I have to get rid of books, which is hard. I don't ever get rid of books to sacred and I had to get rid of, I had to get rid of like almost half of my books. So I had to go through and be like, okay, certain things that I've never read that I've always meant to read. I'm not going to you know, meet anymore gone. The concordance of the Bible. Okay, I have the internet. I don't need that anymore. You know what I mean? Stuff like that. But then a bunch of things. You know, my, you know, my wife, Jane was like, Do you really need that? And my response was, oh, hell, that's a classic in the field. Right. But just like a random field. So I'm going to do like a like, occasionally, I think we should just do a mini segment here called classic in the field. Classic in the field. Yeah. Right. So like I brought one. I brought a right to actually. So last week you weren't here, Nick. But I was talking about this is my beater copy, which is the effects of nuclear weapons is an amazing book put out by the United States government back when they were actually worried about winning a nuclear confrontation. And this is the actual book. It's intense. I'm not going to discuss that it was brought up I just wanted to prove that this was a book. Now this is the book we're going to talk about. It's called soilers. Paperback cookery. Now, be careful when you flip through this because it's from 1911. This is the first American edition came out a little bit earlier in England, it was either 11 or maybe a year earlier. 1910 in England, it's an English book. But because of the era, the papers are very fragile, they're very brittle because it's acid paper. So a little bit about this book, which is a classic in the field. So when I was a child when I was a child, every couple of years there a new new recipe will become popular for paper bag this and paper bag that you remember this thing 70s and 80s. Paperback cooking definitely was a thing and it kind of fades out and comes back. I first learned about it because President Eisenhower's daughter whose name escapes me wrote a book and it had paperback chicken in it. And every week when I was a child, I would make paperback chicken. So the paperback chicken I would make I use my own personal it's not five spice. My five spice mix at the time was salt, pepper, paprika, curry powder, garlic powder, because when I was a kid, I think I've spoken about this before I put garlic powder on absolutely everything. So I would rub hand rub cold butter into the chicken. Then add those things predominantly for salt, throw in a paper bag and throw it in the oven and let it cook and the results for a nine year old. I thought were fantastic. I mean as far as nine year old cook chickens go. It was fantastic. I haven't done it in many years. But anyway. Later I became aware of a very famous chef named Alexis Sawyer. So spelled Sawyer, not like selling things. Sawyer as in soy sauce, Alexa Sawyer was some people say the first celebrity chef was a French guy who was cooking for some Princess royal princes in obviously, they'd been de Prince too, because it was after the French Revolution, but, you know, the kind of wealthy aristocrats in France, and then ended up moving to England so kind of the jack Papan of his day who you know, used to cook for like Francois Mitterrand and decor, I think, and then came to United States. He was kind of like that came to England, became a chef at a place called the Reform Club.

Reform Club is phenomenal. Is a restaurant still good? They still do because it's one of his famous dishes. The lamb cup was reformed. Yeah, they still have that on the menu.

Is it any good It's good can any drummer go get go they're a unit

you need to be a member of the aristocracy will have a friend can you get Do you have a friend can you get I have a friend or maybe we have a mutual friend who can probably take you there. I've been there with a mutual friend of ours. Yeah, I'll tell you about offer her

okay. So anyway, so he becomes the chef this place called the Reform Club, which at the time was progressive, like rich aristocracy, but like progressive ie reform, and became a wildly popular, wildly famous chef wrote a book called The gastronomical generator in 1946. That talked about professional kind of high end cooking Easy Voice. Okay, sorry. 1846 Professional high end cooking. He had one of the first kitchens in the UK with Galilee gas. Yeah, fully gas kitchen. Amazing. The book is amazing. I first learned about this from MFK Fisher. By the way, the way that you used to learn about things is that you would read a book. Okay. And then in that book, that author would then talk about books that she had read. Right now I actually got guff. Someone gave me guff in liquid intelligence, I would talk about where I learned things or where sources come from or ideas. That's how I used to learn is that like, authors would say things like this are in bibliographies, or annotations. So I learned about the gastronomy regenerator which was the book of its time in English, obviously, you know, in French, there were different books. He then also when the potato famine when the great when the great starving started happening. He wrote a book somewhat. Some of this stuff somewhat didn't it didn't have working misguided, but soup kitchens for the Irish and he was interested in cooking for poor people after he written his rich person's book. He wrote several people in poor poor people's books, also invented a cookstove during the Crimean War, that was in use by the UK for field cooking called the Sawyer stove was in use into the 1980s. So very kind of, but he died very young

cocktails. And he had his own brand called Soyuz nectar, I think it which was sort of like peach flavored bottled cocktail.

I was remade that crap. did loads of interesting. Yeah. So his grandson was also a cook. His grandson, Nicholas, sir. So when I saw this book, 1911 I'm like, that's not right. Here's Nicholas Sawyer, his grandson and his grandson invented paperbag cooking. Now, now, that might not be a big deal to you. But for anyone that grew up in the 70s or 80s. Paperback cooking is the real thing. And in the very first paragraph of this book, so this is 1911. And just so you think that, Oh, we're lying. It's just garbage. paper bags were first invented mass produced paper bags were invented in 1852. The first flat bottom paper bag was invented in 1871. And the first pleated paper bag that we have was in 1883. So it's about the right time to come up with the paper bag could also notice that if you grew up in the 70s, or 80s, you weren't worried about chemicals in your bag. Now, it just wasn't what you were worried about. And we didn't have plastic bags. Everything came in a paper bag. Every house had a bunch of paper grocery bags in them, because that was the only method to get your groceries home. Because one, none of us were carrying around little nylon satchels, and there were no plastic bags. So so he invented this but right away he says, it's the same thing we've been doing forever on Poppy. Oh, but now we have these convenient bags. And at the time, actually, he was saying that the paper bags they were manufacturing were quite polluted with whatever they were making with because I think he was just trying to hawk his own bags. Yeah. But he basically says if you use the regular, you know paper bags from 1910 or 1911, it's gonna give an off flavor to your food. So you should buy soils, bags, soils, paper bags, of course. But all of the all of the advantages of cooking on puppy out and I might do this in my book, The miracle of moisture management coming up, because it is paper. I am I am going to write it in a Stasi paper bag on puppy out in paperback cooking is a form of moisture management. It's so it's a combination steam and then once the initial steam goes way, roasting technique that is kind of kind of cool. So this year, we're holding the very first paper bag cookbook. Nicholas lawyers, paper bag cookery. 1911. Classic. I've taken a photo of it so I can Yeah, classic reveal the effect of nuclear weapons also a classic in the field that will be buying. Yeah. When you buy it look in the back. I took it. The reason I have this is my beater copy. I have my my collectible copy at home. I bought this because I was missing the nuclear detonation bomb calculator in the back. Make sure that when you buy your copy it has it's a slide rule in circular form of how to calculate how far away you are, and how many seconds it's going to take for the blast to get to you versus how many kilotons or megatons the bomb is. Here's the news. By the time that you have read it off of the slide rule it is too late. It's too late. Anyway, all right. We have one more one more. One more. One more. Bob right. By the way, if you want to hear more classic in the field Old additions such as pigeons how to make them pay or anything like this, which is the classic on raising pigeons for food. You know just let me know on at cooking issues my Twitter, let me know that you want to hear more of them. And I will bring more classics in the field in Bob writing and you'll be interested in this I think Nick about bentonite hope this is the right email. I'm a winemaker. Obviously, if I'm reading you already know. I'm a winemaker and vineyard manager in Green Bay, Wisconsin, currently running through your back catalogue during pruning season. Wisconsin is an unlikely region for grapes No, but considerable progress has been made in grape breeding by Cornell and the University of Minnesota. I have Cornell's old book called The Grapes of New York, which is put out by the Cornell extension. And it has it's the state of the art of American grape breeding up till about 1910. And it's, I think, the most expensive of all of the fruits of New York series. You can get it on the Google and I believe you can also get paperback cookery on the Google Books if you want to look at it. Okay, along with these new cultivars some unique challenges such as high protein content, which brings me to my question. We have to use a lot more bentonite for these new cultivars than the old vinifera to make a wine that's heat stable, I'm not afraid of aroma stripping, but the amounts we need result in a lot of loss of product. A quick aside on bentonite, I think its aroma stripping ability is greatly exaggerated. The only concrete science I've seen on it is a study that shows up at bentonite strips, chocolate and cherry aromas. That given that we only use it on white wine, this is not an issue. In the past, you've commented on fast freezing and slow thawing or maybe slow freezing and fasting or some mixture and how it impacts the proteins in an egg yolk and how to avoid rubbery Frozen egg. I suspect freezing and thawing the graves in the right manner might denature the proteins and result in lower bentonite usage. Why? Because every time I make ice wind, the wind is always protein stable without new treatment. That said icewine has a lot of things going on. It could be something else. I would still like to try it on small scale to test that theory. How do you think I can most effectively denature the proteins and graze by freezing and thawing fast slow thanks. In general, it's very interesting. So with egg yolks, what's happening is as you freeze something, the water you get less and less water, the proteins become more and more concentrated. So as their concentration goes up, sometimes they can partially denature and that's what's happening in egg yolks so that when you freeze an egg yolk and then thawed out, it never turns liquid again because the proteins have kind of coagulate I guess it's the one word but they kind of denatured a little bit come together. If you fast via a fast freeze and egg yolk, then it does not do that because it freezes so quickly that it just freezes in its conformation and then goes back. So if you drop an egg yolk into liquid nitrogen, freeze it solid thought back, it falls liquid again. So the answer here is you're looking to damage things and if you want to damage something, there's no better way to damage it than to freeze it slowly. So I would say freeze it slowly on bentonite stripping. The amounts you're using in wine are far less I think then the stripping that happens in cocktail realm I've had people who have used bentonite therapy will use bentonite I've never used it myself. People stir like a load of bentonite into things to get out flock and other things in cocktails. And in large quantities it does strip by the way I'll say this any clarification techniques strips later because it wasn't clear and now it is meaning you've taken something out odds are that thing has flavor. Certain clarification techniques are more damaging of flavor even if soluble things I will say egg white strips flavor a lot it used in high quantities and gelatin strips relatively a lot ag are a little bit less white. The reason we use wine finding agents Kiesel saw which is suspended silica, and Kaita sand, which is you know from shrimp shells or fungal you can get reused. I use those as I find that they're the most gentle ones that you can use. From flavor standpoint to get the results I want. I will say I use the minimum amount to try to get the results I need. Just because I don't really want to strip any more flavor than I need to. Sometimes I strip on purpose. In fact, there's a section of my book on purposely stripping flavors out. But caseins another thing is strips flavors out like a demon. That said I was giving you a tip for those of you that have spins balls, which is our centrifuge out there at the bar. Unbeknownst to me, typically I use two milliliters per liter of Kiesel salt, which is suspended silica and then to have colitis and then to have the case of salt again. The bar has unbeknownst to me switch to using for all the time which is the amount of the enzyme that I use. And I can't tell I haven't been side by side, but I can't tell any extra flavor stripping and it does tend to make the product more bulletproof on clarity. So if you want to move up to four move up to that Hey, Nick, thanks so much for coming on. Thank you and Okay, time. Go out try Hepple. Jan available in new What are your markets your inherent were

in New York States? I think we're in four states on the Eastern Seaboard. What about over in the West? Nothing in the West? No, I think California can buy it via as in New York, as I like that there is a way of getting it to California.

Alright, well give it a try. It's the only gym that you're going to have that has supercritical co2 vacuum, and classic, classic pot distillation in it. And wait, but no, you're not doing any No. You said pot, no column,

no snow cold, local partners.

Here that. So then it's all three mixed together because he's trying to get the results that he wants to get. And it's a long line of Nick trying to avoid working real hard to try to get the flavor results he wants to

get to us to get the recipe right. There you go. And I think it's right now. Touchwood you know what,

that's another thing. If you came up with a gin yesterday, you're not done. Keep working

working on cooking issues. Thank you.

Thanks for listening to heritage Radio Network, food radio supported by you for our freshest content and to hear about exclusive events, subscribe to our newsletter. Enter your email at the bottom of our website heritage Radio network.org. Connect with us on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter. at Heritage underscore radio. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization, driving conversations to make the world a better, fairer, more delicious place. And we couldn't do it without support from listeners like you want to be a part of the food world's most innovative community. Rate The shows you like tell your friends and please join our community by becoming a member. Just click on the beating heart at the top right of our homepage. Thanks for listening