Cooking Issues Transcript

Episode 355: If a Milk Steams in the Forest...


Hello, everybody, and welcome to a brand new series on heritage radio network called the culinary call sheet where we give a peek into the back kitchen of culinary media. I'm your host, April Jones,

and I'm your co host, Darren bresnitz. Part of why we started the show was to offer an unofficial mentorship for anyone who's interested in learning about all aspects of food and video, whether that's TV, social media online, or just something you want to do for fun.

Absolutely what was once niche or a little silly, as I'm sure you remember, Darren, when we started out, this man has now become such a massive playing field for so many creatives using food as the medium.

It's something that has driven us professionally and personally, for so many years. What excites me the most about this show is that we're going to sit down with some of the industry leaders to hear how they made it and what drew them into this industry.

With 20 years in the culinary production game ourselves. We're hoping we can give through these conversations an insider's view into personal stories from the field, as well as an in depth behind the scenes look into some of the most popular food programming. In today's evolving culinary media landscape.

We'll be covering everything from how to style your food, to how to license IP, to developing your own ideas, and some tips from the masters of how to host your own show.

Yeah, it's a little bit of conversation, how to and how do you do the things that you do in color media, which I'm so excited about? I love so many of the guests that are coming on this season. We have talent from Food Network from Vice media eater refinery 29,

we've met some of the best people in the world both in front of and behind the camera. And we're bringing them all together to share their stories, their delicious adventure and their unique journey into this crazy world.

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This episode is presented by the green grape,

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Hello and welcome to cooking issues this is coming to you live on marriage Radio Network every Tuesday or late again we're really really late again joined as usual Anastasia the hammer Lopez and Matt in the booth How you guys doing? Excellent. So today I don't even know if people care about my excuses anymore. But today, Natasha and I went on a wild chi to sand goose chase because we had to do a demo after this with Titus and because we're getting ready to gear up for another push of spins all mania our is our next shipment of spindles on the water. No, no, not

yet. They should be here by let's say March. That freaking long. I'm just going to say that because if I say end of February, we're gonna get all if they don't then you know, they'd still have to get through Amazon. So they may make it to the US at the end of February. But the Amazon component is

can you believe people that it takes

if we open a bar and queens what are we going to do when Amazon opens

your idea? I know what it's what was it? You wanted to choose to charge double? Oh no, were you oh yay. Here's what we're gonna do. Here's we're gonna do so for those of you that you know for those of you that you know have listened to the show, you know that like Mr. Garcia has a hate hate relationship with the Amazon Corporation now. Every every nickel that Anastasia and I make is derived from selling our products on Amazon you know, we sell a couple of things on monitors pantry, but pretty much your revenue is Amazon derived. And their favorite thing to do is to not pay us that their. Their favorite thing to do is to prove that they received Yeah, they receive that. So like we hand them a like I say we I mean Hong Kong Chris hands them a whole bunch of sizzles in, in China, which is this is our contract. They put them on their own boat and then ship them to the United States. And then an Amazon boat and Amazon. Well Amazon contracted out maybe they held the boat. I don't know maybe to abuse those boats. I have no idea. So so what happens is invariably, they want from Anastasia, who by the way lives here in New York. work. And you know, we are Booker and DAX anyway, wants from Anastasia proof that they have arrived in the warehouse in the United States. And we're like, whoa, whoa, whoa, whoa, whoa, Amazon,

your boat, your boat, your factory, your people, your siever. You,

you know what I mean? Like, we handed you crap in China. And that's the that's it. You don't I mean, that's all there is to it. So instead, what Anastasia wants to do is sell So Amazon is moving a big, you know, one of their headquarters to Long Island City, Queens and Stasi wants to open a bar there just so what she can do is sell gift cards to Amazon workers.

For the only way they can get a drink. They buy a gift,

they buy a gift card, and then when they show up, and the Stasi, by the way is going to quit every other job she has just to be the host, which isn't rancid job for those of you that are hosts out there. God bless you. God bless a good host. You know what I'm saying? Wretched job. So anyway, so. So she all she's going to do is be the host and when they come in with their gift card, she's going to be like, Well, I don't know. Can you? Can you prove you? Can you prove you bought that find the person? Yeah, find the person who sold you the gift, but I bought it over the internet? I don't know, man. I don't know. I don't know. It's just gonna do that. So they never get their drinks. And just so you know, this is exactly the kind of vindictive person that Anastasia is like she was really they could go to other bars. Yeah, you you figure out something. Anyway. Alright, so let's hit some questions here. Oh, by the way, I don't know if you know this people. The telephone number for this radio station is 718-497-2128 That's 71849721280 Before we get to questions last night, we did a Bobby Burns and industry Grey Goose so strangely dug at Grey Goose is like half Scots and so he's like, we're gonna do Grey Goose is gonna pay for so a vodka company, a French Vodka company, paid for a Bobby Burns night with haggis yesterday at existing conditions. Nastasia made a vegan face on haggis haggis is freaking delicious. Have you had haggis? Yeah,

you were at the MCA. You brought some back.

It was delicious. You don't like it? You have you have serious brain damage. People who don't like haggis, either you're a vegetarian. Or you just have some sort of mental thing about it. If I just told you like oats plus, like good stuff, you'd eat it. Anyway, they made me read. First of all, we had a bagpiper come they hire this amazing bagpiper out Gonzalez who used to play in the in the NYPD pipe band. So we brought pipes we had a haggis, but it was an American made haggis so no lungs. Unfortunately, apparently next year, we're gonna try to smuggle in a haggis with lungs in it. Because the real haggis has lungs. But as you know, lungs are illegal to sell the United States. So we get this paper and like the whole front of the bar is like what good whack because the paper starts playing in the front of the bar like ring and say that I talk to him. I'm gonna get back on the bagpipes again, back on the bagpipe again. You're gonna love it when I go back five crazy again, but

about your CV book.

I have to write the SU V booklet people I have like to I have. I have a couple of hobbies in my life that I pick up and drop pickup and drop pickup and drop. One of them should be well, that's not a hobby. I'm like, theoretically being paid to do that. So I need to do that. But the other one, I can't believe it's called a freakin Suvi book. It's not really Suvi book. First of all, I lost that battle about calling it cvwd so long ago, but it still pisses me off no end that everyone calls it soothie even though very few techniques in the book are going to require a vacuum machine too long to get in here. Anyway. Bagpipes math. The Stasi thanks still thinks there's an outside chance that I've become a civil war. But I haven't I haven't gone into civil war. I go into these holes people. So what happened in the Stasio column? And she's like, what do you what are you doing? Did you did you do the drawings for the for the next you know, blah, blah, I can't talk about it. But blah, blah, blah. And I'm like, just read 600 pages of shall be flexible. And she's in she's like, you were eating it you idiot of course like you know, but she when she wants her bachelor times if she wants her bachelor time

I don't even watch that anymore. That was back in the day when I had time. Oh, you watch that craft. I know. You are I have no idea what's going on

people. This does Oh in the Bachelor but you watch you watch nothing you watch. That's it. Can you see the the Upper East Side?

My favorite line is they say that I forget where I come from. No, I actually remember where I came from.

That's where I live. That's why I live on the Upper East Side. Lesley Lesley Jones is a fan of pasta flour. Because she didn't trust you at first she didn't trust anyone that would draw a picture of her and like, and she was like, I don't trust it. And then she was like, man, okay, yeah. A friend recommended your podcast. And I enjoyed. That's nice. I was wondering if you might be able to shed some light on a couple of questions I have regarding custard based ice cream, I'm trying to find a way to streamline the process of making the base and cooking the eggs without having to temper and then heat them again to 160 217 that allowing them to cool. My thoughts are two Suvi, the entire thing steeping ingredients and all and then just string cool and freeze ln, that's liquid nitrogen people. The problem I'm having is I want to make 12 Quart batches of the base at a time and having to cook the eggs steeped the flavoring and having it cook the eggs and stick the flavor ingredients with this larger batch even be possible in this manner. Would you have any suggestions there? I mean, 12 quarts of bass is union union union union union like I don't know about six times the amount that we used to make, but you could make you could make all that in a circulator, I'd put like, probably, you know, the way that we used to do it, if you're going to do cvwd on a on a base like that is to put them on a vacuum bag, about you know, two quarts per bag, suck the vacuum and make sure they don't leak and then throw them in for 82 to 83 degrees Celsius for you know, between 15 and 20 minutes, pull them out and then throw them on the counter slap, slap, slap, slap, slap, slap, slap, gotta slap them. Otherwise, the textures weird. And then they're, they're good, they're pasteurized, and you know, they stay good. For a long time. It's also very fast to cool them down that way, because you can just throw them right in the ice bucket. But it is kind of a lot to do. Let me read the rest of your, that's how I would do it. If you were going to do it in the bag, you get very good flavor. Now, while I normally tell everyone that you can do almost everything in a Ziploc bag that you can do in a vacuum bag, and that's mostly true. One of the advantages of putting things in a vacuum bag with with ice cream bass is you can blend the eggs with the bass literally with a blender blend the eggs with the bass. I do it with the not with the cream with the milk. So usually I'll blend the eggs with the milk then add the cream stir in so that I'm not over whipping the cream. But it blends up the Kalasa. So you don't really need to strain that much. It's kind of nice that way. The disadvantage of bagging is you have to be very vigilant when you're using a vacuum machine with with a with a bait with a base with eggs in it. Think about eggs and milk, two of the biggest phone capturing things that you can get. And so you know what happens is the base makes a real run for the border. So you need like relatively big bags, you need a lot of airspace so that you have time to hit the stop button as the bass flies towards the seal bar and wants to shoot out. Okay. Let me read the rest of the question. My other thought is steeped in milk slash cream and Suvi only the wait wait out liquid yolk and then blending the two warm ingredients together which would eliminate the extra step of tempering the eggs and and cooking the whole base together again. Yeah. So a couple of things. One, when you're in I think I said this on the air before but when you're making a custard base for an ice cream, you know, well known, you know, delicious ice cream makers like Sam Mason, for instance, don't like the taste so much of cooked eggs. So he actually does super low temperature pasteurization of the eggs but doesn't cook out the customer base, right. So the two things you're doing, you're doing well three things one, you're you're heating the milk to steep your flavors in right. So that's one milk and two a cream one, two, you are you know you need to at some point, pasteurize your egg yolks and three and by the way, one easy way to do this, this whole tempering nonsense is to mix the is to only steep in a part of your base right steep heat steep part of your base, mix the rest of the base back in with cold stuff into your eggs and then put that mix directly into the hot and it won't curl but whatever I digress, especially if there's sugar in it, especially if the sugar goes in with the egg yolks and some of the liquid mix the sugar will also protect against curdling so if you have if you have some of the liquid plus the sugar with the with the egg yolk mix, you shouldn't need to do that much tempering to get it back into your steeping liquid but again I digress. But he doesn't like the taste of the cooked egg. So he would pasteurize his egg yolks and then put them into into his milk, milk cream, whatever whatever flavor base the other but the thing that you get from the standard cooking of bringing it bringing it up and making like you know, in standard crema glaze or custard base is that the whole mix gets thicker and when it gets thicker, it affects the texture of the ice cream one as it melts but to what it's melting properties are so you know my experience is is that thicker bases have a you know a different kind of meltdown now, if you get a super hyper stabilized like a July Though you know some of those Gelatos and this is why they dope them so hard with flavor because when you add Geez Louise Hay I was not fazed towards anything I did the real sneeze Don't you know don't get me people people need to sneeze Anastasia meanie when you when you add as much stabilizers and thickeners as they do in Italian gelato, you need to really add a lot of GS you need to add a lot of flavoring and that's I think also why they got in the habit of adding so much freaking color. This is why gelato is so free to textures great, right? But anyway, very heavily stabilized. So when you when you're thickening you can get that thickness from doing an unglazed base and the egg cost the egg like cooked egg thickening does obscure flavors somewhat This is why some people like the eggless flavor of let's say a Philadelphia stylized cream which is just kind of a cream milk base without a lot and by the way, that stuff is good but only good the instant you make it like for any of those and we've said this before who lived in the New York metropolitan area you know in the 80s 90s Breyers ice cream used to be a straight Phillies I affiliate ice cream in other words had didn't have eggs didn't have any stabilizers. And it sucked right if you lived at the factory and you got it right when it came out of the machine and you ate it then it was great which is like all that Philly style stuff. But then you know if you put it in your freezer, it kind of blows anyway especially Breyers used to sell it in the half gallon Do you never got that out west right and stats you know, even though I'm talking about these type of commercials were like a solid they got ingredients I can pay now, why would I give a crap whether a little kid can pronounce ingredients or whether or not I'm going to buy a product? You know what I mean? Like? Doesn't make any sense. Does that make any sense to you an associate? What if it's an ingredient that is very common, but it's in another language and the kid can't pronounce it? Like what if I'm eating? Fried? What if I'm eating gooseneck barnacles and the kids like Brian pine upon a pack can pronounce it don't eat it fine. More for me. You know what I mean? Like I hated that advertisement. But the even worst thing about it is now Breyers was like, hey, you know what? This stuff sucks. And they added a whole bunch of stabilizers to it's now they can't even say that. No offense Philadelphia people who grew up near the factory and it was good when you were growing up, whatever. Anyway, so point is is that cooking the egg also gives a texture for meltdown. You can add that texture back with thickeners. But be aware that like when you're doing Italian gelato, if you add stabilizers, you're going to be masking flavor. And if you mask flavor, you need to add a lot extra even the fat in in like cream, masks flavors, which is why some people and I actually one of these people really enjoy chocolate sorbet. Do you like chocolate sorbet, Anastasia? I love it. Because it's like as chocolately it's as chocolatey as you can get right? It's not as smooth and creamy. But it says chocolate as you can get in a frozen confection in my opinion. Anyway, what do you think that yeah, let's move on. That was that was from

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Are you enjoying this podcast? Heritage radio has plenty more. Hi, I'm Harry Rosenbloom, and I'm the host of feast your ears here on Hrn. My show explores the world of food through storytelling. Every week I talk with people inside and outside the food world about how experience has shaped what they eat and cook. You can find feast your ears wherever you listen to podcasts and on heritage Radio Network Donald

Elliott Papendal wrote in haven't heard from him in a while and I don't know there's two questions on this. I'm going to find the other one who will do them at the same time. Any tips on making infusion with dry herbs in grain alcohol anything people call herbs herbs. Stasis like don't care one kill you. See, and then here we're back into also we have another question in on the similar thing on infusions from Todd so I will read them together Elliott and we will take it all the same time. I'm reading from Park Slope with a question on making a moral using an ISI Whipper and forget did they ever land on ISI or is it Iasi here, I can't remember because it was one in the US and one in Europe and they decided on one and I can't remember, I don't know. You like don't don't care why you still have your coat on.

It's cold. And I'll see you in five minutes gets the questions. I have seven minutes

and whatever I learned about the rapid infusion technique from liquid intelligence and have used it to make some nice infusions, and Amari, thanks for sharing your methods. I have a half liter whimper and have had good success making Mari with 80 Proof vodka and rapid infusion to get good extractions and nice bright flavors and aroma. That said, the common wisdom on the internet seems to be that you need 151 or Everclear to get good extractions. I think the easy technique probably offset some of the need for high proof spirits. My thought is that high proof in the whisper and diluting after extraction might give the best quality. Is this a good idea? Well, I end up with great extractions? Or will they be too aggressive and drive bad flavors? They get left behind with a lower proof? Is there any way to know what ingredients will likely give a good or bad result in higher proofs I can avoid a lot of trial and error. My typical recipes are bittered with gentian at around 1%. And blender dry spices blah, blah, blah, vanilla bean? And would you shift the ratios for higher proof extraction? Okay, and then a follow up is they want to know about lab grade ethanol? Is it better than ever clearer? Is it 100%? Safe? Okay. Oh, and they also want to know about the second book Anastasia? So you know, she gave us she gave us a Fat chance Good luck jerk. We look on her that was that was that that was a look on a stasis face. So regarding your questions, one, if you change the proof, you will get a faster extraction. I have done easy stuff with extremely high proof, you know, 90, almost 100 lab grade ethanol and done very, very pure, very extreme tinctures. I don't, it's gonna taste different. So if you like the flavor you're getting now. Right? If you increase the extraction rate. With this, you know, I don't know how to be honest, I don't know how it's going to shift, my guess is it's probably going to be a little bit harsher or lot harsher for the same amount of time. Generally, the high pressure high high force rapid techniques tend to extract high notes earlier than than base notes. So you're using kind of, for instance, let's take a particular ingredient like, you know, gentian, whatever you're going to use probably even though the thing about Jensen, it's weird. It's like you want bitterness, let's move something else like saffron, we use this at the bar, right? So saffron is got a range of flavors in it. So you have the kind of more vegetable based notes, you know, kind of more bitter like, kind of cooked flower notes. And then you have the more the kind of flowery top notes. And rapid does a good job of shifting towards those high notes right. Now, it might mean you need to use more of the saffron than you would use using it for a shorter period of time and you're extracting just these high notes. If you increase that alcohol level, you're increasing the rate of extraction for most of the most of the things now some things are very soluble in water. And so you can't really tell you're going to shift one direction or another you're going to get a higher extraction into higher ethanol for sure whether it's better or worse. I don't know. Most high proof ethanol is pretty bad, it's easier to get kind of lower proof, decent quality neutral alcohols. You have obviously more wiggle room if you're using a higher proof spirit. If you're going to add sugars and stuff like that to end up I don't know what you want your end result to be. lab grade ethanol can be good, right? The problem is is you have to make sure that it doesn't have benzene in it because most lab grade ethanol has residual benzene and you don't want that you want to make sure it says USP you know our food grade and you know even those aren't really necessarily meant to consume as a beverage they're kind of meant for kind of drug things so I don't even know whether or not they're cool as a as a drinking liquid that said I have used it for that there are relatively expensive high grade pure ethanol is available like tech reserve here in New York, but the standard 151 is Everclear is is pretty gnarly business. Now what you can do and I have done I have done this is get yourself a Brita filter and before you do your stuff with your 151 you got to seal it because it's going to you're going to evaporate very quickly in the vapors are obviously explosive is put it through a brittle like 567 times and you can take that nasty Everclear and the charcoal will get rid of some of the some of the NAS NAS nasties and so that's what I would do. And those are kind of similar to you know, the tips I would give you for dry herbs in grain alcohol. Okay, Megan wrote in Meg and Lauren any tips on best coffee making practices for camping and drinking coffee competition where I will only have fire a pot of water and a hand grinder and my choice of not electric coffee making device. So Megan question I don't know how unreasonable of a person you are right? Or what style of coffee you're gonna make. So let's say you are an extremely, extremely unreasonable person, you could go get a gas fired. You can even woodfire it and convert it like old LaMarche SOCO lever press machine and a Pharaoh's two hand grinder and you could be pumping out, you know, extremely high quality espresso shots using no electricity like none and by the way, if you did that, I think I mean, I hope that you're very very strong because even a backpack I would have a tough tough time carrying that sucker around because I think that they only make them in like two in three groups like a one group espresso machine is heavy enough and I've never seen a gas fire one grouper, but let me just say the quality out of those machines is impeccable and although it's not in the spirit of camping, it would be pretty damn sick. Most people I know that do good coffee in in a camp and travel scenario are all AeroPress people. I've never done a lot of testing on the optimum grind for AeroPress and unless you're a pour over person, obviously you can do that fantastically. The problem is most of my grinding is kind of skewed towards the espresso side of the grind and you should go look I don't know what grinder you're using but there are very few grinders that are good at kind of very fine grinding and very coarse grinding there's a lot of reasons for it and Anastasia is giving me the I don't have time to get into it right now but get back to me with kind of more what the like rules what style of coffee you want to make. And and we can get into it. Although on a follow up. Sam wrote in and said we'll so Pharos, there's these guys in in Idaho who make this orphan espresso it's I think they're husband and wife team that make these grinders. They make the Lido and the pharaohs and their thing is they put professional quality birds like big ones like like I think the one that I have in the Ferris is from the Mazda Rober big, big burrs into there and you know, high quality into their grinders so that you have this hand grinder that's you know, it's not electric, but also instead of five you know, $3,000 you're gonna pay like $300 $200 So I had one of the original ones I made a lot of modifications to it. Because there's a lot of things I hated about it like you couldn't just pour beans into it you had to like do this like ridiculous, kind of like shuffle to like get the beans into the hopper. It also had this horrible horrible way of capturing grounds in the bottom of it so that the grounds would get caught so I had to build like a fake doser almost it was kind of a nightmare. It was great quality coffee but kind of a nightmare to use. Pharaohs updated their grinder to mean sorry orphan espresso updated the grinder the pharaohs to and they solved most of the problems right most all of them. The exception is that they don't have a hopper to throw the beans in and the question I put one on on in my Dropbox and made it available to the universe for Pharaohs one. The question is will that one work directly on the pharaohs to answer no, it is modifiable with a knife. In other words, I didn't reprint it when I did the conversion they they sell a conversion kit ferrous one owner so I went and I bought a conversion kit I converted it and I was able to modify it with a knife and a grinder to make my old Hopper work on the new one. But if you want or if anyone's interested I will go back find my files and do the Doolittle 3d CAD food to them to make them directly printable because it really is gonna make a good modification for the Ferris stasis like why don't you shut up they've got to go do stuff anyway. More what's next week? I might not be here next week.

Is that Cuomo?

Which Cuomo, Andrew, Andrew or Chris Cuomo, Andrew. I do not think the Governor of New York is so who knows the Stasi is gonna go pester him about the MTA cooking issues

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