Cooking Issues Transcript

Episode 329: Booker and Dax Reunion!


Hello, everybody, and welcome to a brand new series on heritage radio network called the culinary call sheet where we give a peek into the back kitchen of culinary media. I'm your host, April Jones,

and I'm your co host, Darren bresnitz. Part of why we started the show was to offer an unofficial mentorship for anyone who's interested in learning about all aspects of food and video, whether that's TV, social media online, or just something you want to do for fun.

Absolutely what was once niche or a little silly, as I'm sure you remember, Darren, when we started out, this man has now become such a massive playing field for so many creatives using food as the medium.

It's something that has driven us professionally and personally, for so many years. What excites me the most about this show is that we're going to sit down with some of the industry leaders to hear how they made it and what drew them into this industry.

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Arnold coming to you live on heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from roughly 1245 One o'clock from Bushwick. Today, Riad bdn screen

plus Nastasia the hammer Lopez

spdx crew

b x bar once IBD X crew I

always forget to help them up in the bar

so calling all of your PDX cocktail related questions to 718-497-2128 That's 718-497-2128 says we have a rather large oh by the way, the reason we're doing this PDX reunion now is because I've wanted to do it for a long time. And we're about to open it's not greenbacks, and everyone here has gone on except for the one person who's going to work with me in this group has gone on to do very interesting things. So this is in advance of the new bar existing conditions opening.

Coming we promise it's that's That's Jack Schramm

our one cent future head bartender.

I can never escape Dave and I would never choose to Alright, let's

so let's go. Why don't we start start with you. Jack will go around the room and say who's in it will say who's in here and then we'll and we'll just get going? Sure. Hi, it's

Jack shrim future head bartender of existing conditions. Former barback at Booker index. Also bartender head bartender. Here's

Hello, this is Robbie Nelson. I was the general manager at Booker and DAX very early on and now working with Plymouth gin and Pernod Ricard

My name is Nicholas Bennett I was the former bar captain of Booker index and now I'm the head bartender at porch light part of Union Square Hospitality Group.

When you see when you say porch light in your head do you sing it in Neil Diamond voice

always? Every single time. Hello, my name is Donnie Clutterbuck. And I used to work a book on DAX now I am the Head bartender at Cure one of the many cures in Rochester, New York. And you can't trademark that name because it's a common word. So everybody uses it. And now I travel around and talk about spreadsheets and citrus fruit

will also like you're also like your uspg All that other stuff, right? Yeah.

How long do we have right now? Just

tell them what you do. Yes, I'm

the founder and a founder and the president of the Rochester uspg Chapter, I wrote an app called poor costs which is a way to find out what it costs you to serve things from a milliliter bottle in ounces at dollars at a percentage for free. And what else do I do? I drink coffee in the morning and coffee at night. Nice. And that's

when asked it's just pork cost its cost of every kind of pork chops. How

much does your pork cost to you?

What am I turn it into ham?

Hello, I'm fairly bad. former resident beautiful boy Booker and DAX bartending blacktail. Am Derrick cram I was part of the last generation at Booker and DAX now at PDT

Yeah. Stacy Swenson, former bartender at Booker and DAX at Dante and Dante genuine where I'm the head bartender and creative consultant for simple surf. Yeah and and general party time good hapur now

Dante genuine unrelated to genuine the rapper.

Well, not technically unrelated

different spellings affiliated by enjoyment?

Yes, yes. So So we'll talk about things we already have a VTX question someone wants to know some specs I'm sure was gonna ask specs if anyone calls into there's going to have a shoot the breeze here which is also fine but I think it'd be make a drink so sorry not pronounce Ricard on this one, but heaven Hill came and did a tasting and they left us a bottle of wine it's just going to show you how like the mentality works at that. Like bowl Booker next mentality. Hopefully we keep this mentality so they show up. And they show us this sacred bond, you know, American brandy, which is good, and a good price. And of course, I just run around the room saying word is bond girls, I'm sugar like running around like an idiot. Calling this spirit. word is bond and not ever saying the word sacred. And then we're tasting it. I think Jack and I both it was like why we've never made a why in all of the years, we never made ourselves milk was psycho. What?

What What were we thinking?

Yeah, first of all, like sidecar sidecar is one of those drinks and you guys will you know disagree with me of course because you're humans, but sidecar is one of those drinks that I always want to love a lot and I never quite love it a lot. And I know all of you who know me know that I have an issue with like heavy wood heavy acid on a shake. And so you know the Yak anyway so we're not using yak on this because standard side cars of course he actually the classic suspects have added simple syrup or is it just quatro yak and lemon? That's like the original Daisy and but garbagey spec it's a garbage Yeah, file that under the long list of garbage class expecting

one You monster.

And yeah, it's bad bad people just terrible people. Anyway, so we milk washed some of the sacred bond not were to sacred bond, we milk washed some of that, I should say that's why I was late because I was at the new bar milk washing so I look washed that and I have a new thing for all of you. So one of the things we did a book or index a lot was acid adjusting, right? We would take our juices in

we would adjust them up to the acidity of lemon or lime juice. But so we're working actually for a new drink at the bar the celery drink. Yeah. And and I thought I was like, you know, I kind of want just more stitches more more more. So it's like why have we never done OJ in the simple syrup. So this is now OJ into simple syrup. So we have OJ turned into simple syrup, lemon juice. So instead of replacing the Quach with OJ syrup, and we're also by the way, so I'll tell you a couple of secrets here for calculating Brix adjusting up two simple steps. This recipe only works only works for adjusting to one to one simple syrup. If you want to adjust to any other bricks, you must buy bricks just means percentage sugar by weight and

deal. So it's not just equal parts sugar and juice. It is bricks adjusted to 50. Right

bricks adjusted to 50. So here's how you here's how you do it. You look up on the internet or if you have a refractometer as we do, you look up the bricks of the thing you have. And and here's the magic formula. If you want any other ratio, any other like you know, bricks, if you want to do two to one simple syrup, then you're on your own, go figure out the math, but just multiply the bricks by two and subtract that from 100. So orange shoes is 11.8 bricks, that's 23.6 and crack from 100 is 76.4. Some of that, so that formula always works. So then if you have 100 grams of OJ you add 76 and change grams of sugar and you're good. Very simple formula. Multiply the bricks by to subtract from 100 multiplied by putting you're starting with 100 grams scale up according well everything's by 100 Yeah, everything's by hundreds by the 100 weight not the company 100 way nothing against the ice company I'm just saying unrelated

right Dave? Before I make this How about we open one of our bottled specialties that

let's do it and what's awesome so what what Jack tell them what you're opening here.

So the first thing we're going to open is a one of our Booker index bottled Manhattan's, this one happened to be bottled on July 10 2015. It's been in my freezer. Well, it actually traveled with me to New Orleans for the cat program in 2015. And I never opened it because we were so liquored up the whole week. You know, it's just, it's tough. So I just brought it home and jammed it in my freezer until an opportune moments such as this one, two or three years not frozen. But well, fridge freezer, you know, it's been freezing in a chilled environment, except for the time it was in my suitcase. And then in the minibar fridge for six days, I still have a bottle of shark's

tooth lying around, but I don't know where it is. I typed the bar, okay. By the way, for those of you for those of you that you know all of you, obviously your family and I hope to see you at the new bar on a constant basis. But remember, we used to store all of our bottled drinks and our carbo drinks in these refrigerators. And they were a real pain in the behind from a service standpoint because they would rattle and move in and out. Remember, our glasses used to fall off and shatter and then like they would go out of out of temperature and then people wouldn't put the stuff back in. And I would start screaming and yelling remember this? Yeah. So at the new place, we could talk about this because they printed it in the newspaper, we're going to have vending machines, and the vending machines are going to keep it at exactly the temperature. And so we're going to have bottled stuff behind the bar too. But people who want to order it can literally just plop a token in the vending machine and yank the drinks. How sick is that? That's awesome. It's crazy. Yeah, we can't do the Bennett Martini because we need something new. Well, maybe we'll make some Bennet martinis.

The three A's right. Yeah.

What did you use? And that was that we're going to share this right started.

We've got two glasses that was stapled so we're gonna go around,

we'll meet in the middle. So we could talk about bottled cocktails. If anyone cares about bottled cocktails. A one more thing I'm gonna say about the fake sidecar. We'll need if we like it, which I have no idea. I'm making the classic mistake that what's his name? What's his name? Thomas Keller yelled at me for which making something I've never made before in front of a bunch of people is like, you're an idiot. You're stupid. I'm like, Well, thanks, I'll take that. But we're going to shake it with an orange because you don't have shake guys. And I don't have the BDS cocktail cube. Because whenever I do a demonstration, like like somewhere else abroad, I bring up PDX cocktail cube with me. And then invariably, I give it to the person who I'm working with at the event, so I don't have any. So you can get the same cocktail cube is going to add the texture of shake guys. And by the way, you can get that texture by shaking with a large piece of citrus in your 10. But if you do it you're infringing on my patent and I will see

everybody has to shake

a drink with an orange. Well, it does actually add a little bit of we're instead of Instagramming it does add a little bit of like zest flavor, which I also enjoy. Still good. Still tastes good.

How many of these you want me to make? Should I just make ones we can see if it's good. And then make more if it is good?

Yeah. Do you have this? Do you have the salt? I brought the salt, salt. Perfect. Nice. All right. Yeah, make one. So the question for you guys. Now you're all you know, I know where your relative palates are. And you know where my relative palate is. How close to three quarters Do you want to get on this? I'm doing like fat half fat half of you guys okay with fat half tasted taste the word milk wash word is bond. It's good. It's light. One of the issues with wooded spirits for me is that they get especially in shaking cocktails when they're extra diluted and extra cold. gets that Woody, Can you milk wash? It's Jack just straight out the bottle. Alright, cool. All right. So we're shaking with an orange infringing on my own patent and mixing so I don't think that's how that works. But the Stasi Why do you have my phone by the way? All right, because I need to look why don't you read me the question. Would we have any callers by

the way? If you want me to keep the sticker on the orange when I shake with

that's the added flavor. And it's a sign that I washed them beforehand.

David where do you go caught in twice before you got here. So really? Yeah,

you know, such as life, such as life. Alright, so we had a question. This is about sauce. Any of you guys cook? Cook sauces? No. Yes. To asking a group of bartenders about cook themselves. What about I was in a place recently where half the menu spelled sauce like sauce and the rest of the menu spelled sauce like South was there? Definitely. I think so. Like it seems like South was cooler. It was just a mistranslation but definitely sounds silly but I wanted and there had been a dish called was called Super mix shops, super mix jobs, super mix shops. So here's my concept. You're ready. We take you take A lamb chop we got to get different sizes but pork lamb beef and then we meat glue them into a super chop low temperature at keep the pork on the outside so that it cooks higher pork then I guess lamb and beef and then or maybe like pork, lamb beef pork so that that you know, thinner and then we have as a Supermix chop and of course served with sour sour.

The Manhattan was delicious. By the way it perfectly preserved thanks to the magic of liquid nitrogen. I'm going to taste this word as Bond sidecar.

Yeah, yeah. That's a cool. Yeah, sure.

look delicious.

Okay, caller you're on the air. We have to come up with a name color for this drink if we actually like and I was thinking something California based. Is there an Easy Rider cocktail?

There is now maybe Ryan? Because he had did he have a sidecar on his motorcycle? No,

of course not. He was completely unsocialized He didn't like people. Like why would he want another person with him on his bike? Anyway? Go ahead. Hi, my friend. This is Dana Cory. Hey. Dana Cory also from Bacary DAX,

my question My question is what's your fascination with dairy man?

My bestie who? Okay, Dana. Dana, Dana, Cory. Cory, well known, afraid of milk like a fear of milk. And this being a family show. I cannot tell you the story. Dana comes over to existing conditions sometime after we open and anyone who can hear our voices comes we will tell you the story of Dana Korean milk by the way the interesting thing about this story is that this is a story that could make someone afraid of milk who was not already afraid. Dana Dana showed up with a an already with a fear of milk it's like Indiana Jones already afraid of snakes. It's dropped into the snake horrific that's good. Yeah, it's real good. It tastes good. Yeah, it's very easy rider. How're you doing Dana?

I'm doing great wonderful excited to see the new bar you know just waiting for my chance to pop in. Yeah.

DANA You live in the great land of mozzarella but true or false? I can tell relatively recent Hoboken by the way. Oh, yeah. Yeah, but until until recently though, you didn't you weren't like down with how good your your your mozzarella was right? Oh, yeah,

we the best the best the best even you

like it even though it's dairy Correct?

Yeah, I can actually get down with it. I have breakfast with Robbie Nelson from time to time and I even had put milk in my coffee. These witnesses

are just getting better and better man. getting better and better. Yeah. So one of my favorite things because Dana is formerly was at Miami is we like talking about the bath salts murderer. Remember the basketballs? Oh, yeah. What did he murder that guy? Just eat his face. Did that guy survive? That we're sorry.

I don't know. I don't want to make it to that.

Basketball. The ET lived.

You don't need a face

now. The tour guide Shot Tour Guide. Yes, he was shot to death. Yeah. Miami, give me some Miami and also, Dan and I both have a love Stupid Love. Inappropriate love for Quad City. DJs I think at least they're hitting me with my love and Quad City DJ. Yeah, come on, ride the train to chew. Yeah,

definitely excited to see you at the bar. Want to come check you out? And you know, a little fun.

Nice. All right, come by. We won't make you drink milk. We won't make you drink. Although we now have cream syrup on the menu.

We have we have new technology though.

So here's the thing one of the problems I had it Booker and DAX pissed me off. He asked me out for was that no one would get the pumps to we could pump clean syrup and butter. We're not going to bring the coal butter syrup. Are we back? Dana's least favorite data that scared the crap out of you.

I never worked with data but I would always hear about once the managers left how you would actively 86 nitrous bottle

don't have my my other my other favorite. My other favorite Dana thing and I wasn't actually there for it. I missed it by a couple of hours was we very, very rarely rarely had to throw people out a book or index. I don't remember that. But someone came in and touched one of the crew like someone came in and touched one of the female crew member and like kicked decks. Really? Yeah. And and he just like just like, like, like left from behind the bar, picked up this human and threw him like garbage onto the street. super impressive. Well, I could just see that like no face so I can see Dana with no face. No expression at all just being like not I mean, just like it is like hurling this dude out onto the street. Amazing good times. Hey, Dana, are you familiar in Hoboken with the clam broth house sign? Yeah. Oh, here we go. Clam broth house man. Right in clam broth.

Got to hit and there's one. There's one.

There's one right in stevedores 50% off yeah, I totally want that clam broth house Iron Man. We got to steal that someday

we got to build a clap. Before we have this. I will work on that.

You gotta steal that for me, Dana. And the other thing is, is that you know, your partner in crime Don Lee evil cocktail overlord could not be here today because we have a tasting with press, you know, opening bid. So he like he's like, no one likes clam broth, and I won't serve it at the bar. I'm like, dude, yeah, clam broth is like clam chowder minus everything Dana hates minus the milk. It's like clam chowder minus the stuff you don't like. That's a bloody Mariana that There you go. I think it's hot though. Man. That'd be like Nick kind of nasty

how to build the hot broth cannon.

Do you guys remember it Booker and DAX. Every year we are invited for the Bloody Mary contest. Every year we did something conceptual and every year we lost we once did the the hot. The hot tomato soup, Bloody Mary and started with a grocery sandwich.

I recall. Yeah. The track down Kraft Singles. Cheese in a snowstorm. It was great.

Except no other. People It was cold as hell and we're serving like grilled cheese sandwiches and we still didn't lose because it tastes like a Bloody Mary da da. It tastes better. Better. It's a grilled cheese sandwich. Who doesn't like if you can eat cheese? You like a grilled cheese sandwich, right? Yeah, I mean, that's just straight delicious. Fruit delicious. All right. So wait, stay on in case anyone has, by the way. Want another color? But Dana also goes to these very kind of not well known. Like cultural things on Cape Cod. Are you allowed to describe those are those super secret cultural things? The one the special, like events where people beat the crap out of each other in Cape Cod? Fireball Yeah, Fireball. Yeah, talking about this. Once you guys are gonna like this, this is

at the powwow in Mashpee native family, they play this game, they gather everyone together. And they have two opposing teams. Just young males it's kind of like a ritual ceremony. And they light them fall on fire wire ball that's lit on fire to get it from from one end of the post, which is also lit on fire to the other end. So yeah, there's a lot of burnt hands everyone's hands looks like like Mickey Mouse at the end of the van because it's all swans all cut up. That's close to just everywhere. It's just a ball of fire and just flying around.

You said it's close to Mashpee right? It's close.

Every single year. Yeah, mass, mass,

mass be the best name ever. So do you have like like a motor? Are you on a motorcycle right now? But he likes motorcycling or some sort of thing. So what would you eat and drink while you were throwing fireballs at each other and Mashpi Turtle, turtle, turtle, turtle tutor suit turtle suit? Yeah, so the anyway, anytime I drive by Mashpee I'm like Mashpee and Booker's like not funny, dad. Anyway, someday you'll invite me. I'll go and I'll get someone throwing a flaming ball at me and I will light on fire again. Although I hope to never light on fire again.

Yeah, but we'll be there. The only thing is that they're strict about filming. Because it's a very ritualistic thing. But yeah, definitely bring the boys bring the family. And we'll be down there. This fourth of July check. Oh, no. Oh, Fourth

of July. We'll talk about you talk. You come to the bar. You talk. All right. Yeah.

All right.

Cool. Dave, we got here we got we got another caller on the line caller you're on the air was. Hey, how

are you? Longtime first time first time long time. I'm actually from London. But I now live in Boston and spend an inordinate amount of time at Mashpee Commons and I've never seen what your contributor talks about the data side. My question is I've recently fallen in love with LaGrone and I was at the American Bar and the Savoy in London and he sold me on a Mezcal Negroni, which was actually rather good. My question is what can we make an A grown out of dropping the gin and subbing it for something else? Okay, this

is perfect because I am Stacy Swenson here

I'm gonna give you your time Stacy. But let me let me let me just say one thing, like, I am gonna let you finish but like my issue Is that like and we can have this argument after after we hear the answer, but is it really a Negroni steal? Or is it a different drink? I got into almost a knockdown fight at the bar last bar meeting I had because I was like every damn drink according to you, every damn stir drink is a freaking Manhattan. Every freaking thing. It's either Manhattan or Martini. I got into huge fight any label? No. All right. So go ahead, go. Go Negroni.

Oh, okay. I don't think we need to be so strict about what we call a Negroni. But if there's a difference, there's many schools of thoughts, I guess, I guess that the Negroni is just a building block for a cocktail just like a Manhattan would be right. So I think at Manhattan, I guess in Manhattan, a martini would be the same building blocks, right. Tony is a different thing. It's pretty much pretty much exactly the same. Yeah, we definitely stretch our imaginations a little bit when we're when we're building to grow knees. And you can pretty much literally use any base spirit. And if you switch up your bitters and your vermouth, you can make it taste good. It's really hard to make it not taste good.

Bosco drops.

That's the beauty of that.

I personally think that Kumari kind of won the won the fight for the Negroni, I think you can now make a Negroni with any three parts as long as there's a strong, a sweet and then comparing.

So like,

Why does it need to be compared though? There's so many red biters out there.

I agree. I'm just from a branding perspective. I think I think comparing Well, of course, fighting is fighting that fight

and comparing. Well, I

would get this question a lot when people ask. Well, I thought an attorney has to have Kumari. I don't know like doesn't who makes these laws?

I think Aperol is a legit, still legit, less alcoholic sweeter?

Sure we've got Luxardo better contratto better. Like there's several other

Do you carry that? Yeah. Do you use the Luxardo?

Yeah, we use it on our Boulevard. Yeah.

Why? Like, why that as opposed to a different one? I mean, do they pay you? They did

and then decided it's the one they like?

Sure. That's the understanding like what's it what's I don't know enough about it, honestly, because we never carried it right. I'm sorry.

That came up a little bit before I was there. But there's a reason why we use each bitter and each cocktail. We also want to keep you know a variety on the menu.

I mean, I know for me a lot of times it's I use that because they literally paid for an event and I don't want to change it because it we wrote the spec with that.

Sure. That might have that might come up and sort of some decision making

color. How close are we to answering your question

oh my god, you're out again. Caller you're turning into Darth Vader. Or

II your your robot voice

sounds like he's going through a series.

I want to add that if you're gonna use a base spirit that's as intense as mezcal, then maybe lighten up your bitter a little bit. And so use something like Apple or maybe like a, like Cappelletti or something. It's not as intense unless you really want like a punch in your face kind of cocktail, which I think a Mezcal Negroni is,

Mezcal is a huge range, though. It can range from like super light to like super hardcore, Mr. Adel, Maggie, do you have any comments on this? What are there's also like, Would you at least agree steak when would you least agree?

Well, for Vita, because so if you're, you're going to use a Mezcal that's cost effective and a cocktail right and most of us I think most of them are super smoky the ones that are like betta, for example,

we're right next base, mezcal, mezcal, tequila mix bass. I like a mix bass All right. So hey, know to lighten it up in a drink the lightning you know, but you also agree like you like white, you still like a white spirit? Not like a like an age, spirit and Negroni, right. Oh, no, you can do like I could do anything, anything. Anything.

It was an experience.

Now, what about it? What about a Kingston Negroni? What's that

Jamaican rose?

What kind of Jamaican rum Smith and grass

somewhere else? It was like a one didn't say like one day or something. It does say it just say London. It's

just old. warehouses. You know, it's a historical. I don't care. I

don't care where it's from. It's delicious. It doesn't really matter.

We'll call one ritual we'll get to

have we answered your question basically comparing like Campari and vermouth mixed with things tastes good in almost any race. And my question,

my final follow on was, what do you reckon? One big cube Have Eyes lots of eyes or just straight up what's the right etiquette?

I'm gonna give you I'm gonna give you a four beat how much of your cocktail is left? Right? Yeah, so like I mean, I would down it that's just me and you don't need ice serve it up and have children.

I mean, start on ice first. I thought he meant service. Yeah, service wise, but I'm just saying

if you're if you're going to be like Yakety Yakety Yakety Yakety Yakety Yakety, Yakety, Yakety, Yakety Yakety yak and then serve it on a big cube, big cube. The trick is Negroni doesn't like being too warm, correct? Yeah, for sure. Yeah, it's like that's why I'm less yackety yak more drinky drink. So great answer.

Keep it out. Thank you.

Thank you. And by the way, people never ever never ever ordered a double anything. Just say give me one now and make me one and exactly three minutes. You know what I mean? Like that's the correct answer.

Now, David just spoke to the bartender inside of Roberto as he said, he substitutes sous for the Kumari ah

Negroni, sous sous like which one of you is a sous freak. And Robinson is a student.

I love we're all Seuss freaks.

Yeah. He's making me one right now. So

oh, why? Oh, because we didn't make you a drink. Yeah,

that's right. That's not

more, so we're gonna make you whatever we're gonna put we like easy right? Or what do we like to name so I'm always always terrible at naming things. sleazy.

Gentle writer, Dave quick read. Well, we gotta

take a break. We'll be back with more cooking issues.

This episode of Cooking issues is brought to you by Bob's Red Mill, an employee owned company that has been offering organic stone ground products for decades. Dave, we

have a question from Kat. This week. I've seen the Sears all being used to Carmelite sugars on relays and other desserts what type of sugars work the best.

Okay, well, I've sincerely encourage you to all go purchase Sears sells on amazon.com. I actually use a regular torch when I'm doing relays without the Sears all head and the reason is, is that relays don't take on that torch taste that you get when you torch things that have fat or high amount, like high fat likes, like meats or things have proteins in them. And in fact, a torch is a straight naked torch is a good way to get kind of crunchy sugars. I haven't run the test of different kinds of sugars. I know isomalt crunches up real nice. I know sucrose crunches up real nice, but I haven't tested for instance like glucose powder or fructose powder on the top of a chrome relay. So I can't really say but I doubt it where if you want something that hold that you want something that does crystallize nicely. So invert tends not to so I would I would choose things like sucrose or isomalt anything that you would use kind of in a hard candy situation.

You can get a whole range of sugars to test with your Sears all at Bob's Red mill.com and use the code cooking issues that's one word all caps cooking issues for 25% off your order.

And we're back. We're talking about the worst things we've ever made. We did a birthday cake we did a birthday cake bourbon wants remember that we blend it up Oh God.

Like French fried vodka ones

Yeah, that was my that was delicious, who go to pop us three tests. So it was a lifelong dream. You can make a good who goes up as fetus buddy. It goes like rancid in about a day. That's Oh,

I milk clarified a bottle of red wine recently and then Brixton up to 50 and it was terrible. Gonna be a New York sound so it's not to me

to be fair, the wine started as terrible it's true track wine to begin with it like you would not drink the wine so why would you think that as a product that would be good

I didn't want to use good wine and potentially ruin it. But you're correct you're absolutely correct and I was a cool cool

Yeah, so what else are we talking about milk washing. We were talking about like during the break we were talking about things we've milk wash and things we've made like Stacy was saying we did a candy corn cocktail once not on the menu that's the kind of character would never go

on the main was on the menu but it was only there for a couple of days was like Halloween weekend was

I gone? No you because you came in that day to make it for us. I made it for you. Yeah that for Dave in the booth. David

to find a way to layer it to make it look like

he won't be able to operate the phones if he has a full drink I'm going to take the other half alright go so back so we're layering flavors.

Literally layering the cocktail I was like I got I got vetoed on that was really the most

pleasant the most unpleasant kind cocktail world word is pousse cafe. This delicious cafe. You like it sounds good right now he's saying yeah, but do you like it? Stasis hater of everything. So she likes it if she likes it and it's not rosy champagne, literally like as soon as the Stasi walks in the bar, someone just looks at her grabs an AP wineglass and dumps a bunch of rose a bubbly bucket. Bucket.

I just say starts here. Would you like a bucket? It's always yes.

Yeah, she never ordered anything else. In fact, we're gonna have to carry some sort of rose a sparkler just in case Anastasia shows up.

Wait, Dave, have you ever heard of quanto buckets?

Ooh, what's this?

So I was hanging out with some where many contro people on Saturday and they taught me about a quanto bucket where basically you take a shot of Quantico, you light it on fire. You put your hand over the top to seal out the oxygen. So the fire goes out and it's suctions to your hand and then you can like shake it up and then you take the shot. I know about this a guy used to work for the recording studio claimed he did this to women all the time to embracing fire.

Very impressed

Wow, and I don't know man, you need yourself a new friends, man. Anyway, so do you like to tell me like we all know that burning liquor is good. We do that all the time? Yeah, all the time. We're gonna have the red eye poker new joint. Yeah, it's a little late in the season. I thought we'd be open months ago. Hey, all right. So while you're making the next drink, I will answer a food related question. This one from okay, I love it when people give me the pronunciation of their last name because I can literally just look at it wirelessly that may mail your honor. This is from Tom Millia Ron so you have to say really fast, Tom Millia Runza but It notes the answer is two. Oh N That's like I just learned that Joaquin seamos name isn't working anymore. It's working. See Mo Oh, wow. Melia. Yeah, so this is from Tom. A lot of Mexican sauce recipes. Were kind of South a lot of Mexican sauce recipes. Have you heat a little oil in a pan until the oil is very hot. Then dump in the sauce which is otherwise made right it's already a pre made sauce. Think like an enchilada sauce or something. Usually selling tomatoes or tomato base to quickly reduce and as the recipe often claims to sear it or a lot of people say they fry it they're frying the sauce after it's made anyway, sells. This usually results in the sales violently hissing and spurting leaving a mess all over the counter up the walls, on the cook, etc. You ever got boiling salsa in the eyes? So I'll tell you something else. When I was younger, my eyes were fast. My my little membranes were quick. Is this is this a nictitating membrane your eyelid? Is that what that is anyway, so like, real fast, so I never used to get hit in the eyes. But now that I'm getting older, my reflexes aren't so good. And your shoes and a blinking issues and like that's why I had to go to the hospital and get like a big piece of metal carved out of my eye instead of just wiping it off my eyelid like when I was young anyways. My question is, is the idea of searing in big old air quotes a sauce B S? Is there any reason why the same result could not be achieved by reducing the south at a more moderate rate? Thanks, Tommy Ronzo. Okay, so the answer is it is not BS. Here's what okay, but it is a pain in the butt. Right? What's going on? We're tasting? What do we what?

Two and a half year old Martini? You are whenever you

have a moment. So I'll give you this. Yeah, it smells like it's

almost as if it's olive in the bottle for two and a half years. In fact,

this is a history. That's a dirty martini I could get down on there's a particular

history to this family show.

The Okay, so you take you taste

going around or

you tasting around for a minute and then I will talk about the sauce and you guys can chime in if you have sauce things. So think about it this way when you're cooking a tomato based sauce in general, like I've said this many times on the show but if you come from Boston Italian stock, first of all, it's not sauce. It's gravy. And it's not pasta. It's macaroni so it's macaroni and gravy is pasta with tomato sauce. And the worst thing you can do because you have to cook the gravy for hours and hours is burning the gravy because it's not fixable if you burn tomato sauce. It is a non fixable problem. And what does it tell you the fact that you can burn tomato sauce? What does it tell you? What is it telling you people that it gets above the boiling point ie you're having reactions happening at the bottom of that that that are high temperature reactions right it and it's because it's so thick that it can't get get out of the way it locally dries out, heats way up and you can get, you know, high heat flavors. This is the reason why a lot of people take a like a very nonstick well seasoned cast iron pan and cook down their tomato paste in the light, just give it a little heat in the bottom of the cast iron pan with some oil before they cook it to get a little bit high temperature action on their tomato paste. I don't do that because I'm lazy. But people people totally do that. And so on a thick sauce. Yes, you can get those kinds of cooked flavors. The trick is to keep moving it around so it doesn't burn. And most of those flavors are going to happen very soon after you add it because you're going to turn it down such that it doesn't burn. Now your problem with sputtering is you probably have more liquid in it at that point than you want. So it's going to sputter everywhere. And if you have a thick layer of South and you heat it up at the bottom, and it's thick, like it's tomato, it's got pectin and other stuff in it. You build up bubbles the bubble stay underneath and then it takes a long time for them to erupt because there's no convection. So you locally superheat this house, it forms a large bubble and then that bubble pops at the surface rather violently and shoots hot spurts everywhere, which is why always cover that sucker. Always cover that sucker. What I would do is dump cover. Let it there for a little bit, stir it and then turn it down. That's what I would do. Anyway. So talk more my clutter. But by the way, I told you the day after you started working I told you oh my god, I just had to deal with another Clutterbuck. How many of you are there

just mean that person? Yeah. I've never heard of another

second one of the better names. He killed them all.

Donnie wasn't born. He just was.

I am. She ran. She ran the permissions for whatever library I had to get permission when I did the liquid intelligence book to use Ben Franklin's recipe in New York. I the eastern seaboard. Somewhere here on the Eastern Seaboard. There's at least four of us. Alright, cool. Maybe five. So talk to me about the Martini. Martini

is dated five, nine meeting tomorrow, but two years ago, so it's 200 720 something days old. And it's spent the first year of its life in my friends trunk. Ah. Cold hot, cold, cold, cold, hot cold.

So this is like Lenny it's the linee Yeah, it's been in crossing borders.

Ever every temperature? I can imagine.

Yeah. And it still tastes good. It just has a lot of all of them don't have a lot of I think it's nice. Today's them all for two years.

Is this actual? This is the actual PDX Nick Ben spec.

Yeah, this is. You can see Jack's handwriting here.

Don't read it.

Though. There's a whole bunch of really good stuff written on there. From the old days. But

Nick tell us about your martinis back here.

orange bitters. I don't remember what it is off the top of my head Beefeater gin we use Dolan dry three stolen dry three eighths stolen dry. Yeah. Anyway, it wasn't a complete half ounce or anything like that. It was a Oh, orange bitters and dilution and then we let it sit with in the freezer with a small olive castle. Castlevania? I never remember that's not Castlemaine.

The only one the only thing I can think of a Toronto

Castle Wolf and stuff.

The same as the Spanish Queens but they're just like

yeah, well, the thing is it had to fit in the

bottle. Yes, yeah, that was the main point. Here is said batch spec I have pulled up it's 350 ML is Beefeater 75 ML Stryver. Muth this has stolen 300 ML is water 10 dashes orange bitters, that yields approximately five martinis after we put 150 grams of batch into each bottle with one it's like a five

to one and it was like Nick was like I'm using beef because you use too much tank days.

And I have I have the service the service recipe here is it says Martini open bottle and serve

Alright, so some spec questions someone Nick Nick from England wrote in and said give me the spec for the hatchback Give it to me one sec. Let me let me give it to me give it to me. That's Karen Jarman recipe and someone else asked for thunder nuts Big

Thunder nut is the hardest drink in the world to make it takes many days and you absolutely have to have a centrifuge

I think my second day I spent the entire stairs and tripped up the stairs

those stairs

Yeah, hatchback. hatchback is 1666 milliliters of water. Amazing. 335 milliliters clarified Grapefruit 335 milliliters simple 335 milliliters Kumari, a liter of tequila of your choice sweet Lightning light. Yeah. Blanco tequila,

Cimarron. Escalon cabeza similar Yeah

26 drops of saline solution and then you chill it force carbonate it and then top it with a half ounce top each six ounce pour with a half ounce of clarified lime

right that's a Karen Jarman spec but she said that she was based at on a drink whose treat that she based it on

Isn't it like a siesta right? Is that Katie's sounds like Yeah, I mean it's a it was a classic I think it was a modern classic from PDT the kT over there, but how did how did you guys name the the hatchback that was like right before I shot Oh, no.

So like, what happened was, what had happened was like the I remember the story, but I don't you have to tell me because like we were the opening bar crew like, so Tristan. And like the opening crew. We all were like we need names for these dang drinks. And we just went to a restaurant and just started ordering french fries and booze. And we're like, we're not getting up until we have names for all these drinks. And that's where

you're telling me I could have had fries.

become cheap in my old age. But like, Where'd the name come from? I

remember the story that I heard. And Nick, you were there so you can testify. But apparently, you were all sitting around you were talking about this, this comparing tequila drink. And somebody was like, well, it's basically like a like a siesta like Katie's type siesta. And then Dave or somebody was like, yeah, like Fiesta, and somebody said, Ford Fiesta

hatchback. That's a when. Really, when I tell you what man like, like, the thing is, is that there's so many different combinations and spirits out there that people people get so bent on where the spec come from. And if you here's the groaning problem I was talking about, right? So it's like, if you start from a like, this starts from a drink that I brought here starts from citEcar because I I woke up and well, when I say woke up, I mean paid attention when we were in this tasting with heaven Hill. And I was like, oh, sidecar. Right? So this legitimately to me is a sidecar variant. Yeah. But like if you happen to like start with a flavor and arrive at something that is similar to something else, but his milk washed, has a bunch of herbs in it, and then does a bunch of other stuff that no one ever did. Then is it really a variant on that other drink that you weren't thinking about or not? Like is our saffron Plymouth Martini really a tuxedo?

No know. It's more of a seersucker suit.

That instead of Canary carries with it as long as you call it something different than what does what differentiates a tuxedo bill? Well, you just need to Amash to it if when you're talking to your guests and be like this is where the inspiration came from. But

but that's not where the inspiration came from. That's the thing you've seen such a jagoff move because it's like well, it's like a tuxedo except for it's got yellow chartreuse in it and freakin saffron, that we wrap it in fuse. But other than that exactly the same. And we weren't thinking about the tuxedo when we're making it and it's an inverse ratio. But other than that, it is a freakin tuxedo. All right.

Do you think if you landed on the planet tomorrow, and you didn't have any idea what any classic was, and you're giving a whole bunch of spirits? And then you started making cocktails with them? Do you think that it's possible that you came up with a cocktail that didn't have any sort of precursor to it? You know what I mean? No, like, do you think it would be possible? No, if it tasted good, you know? Right. So then why are we even stressed about

instead of stress about the what I stress about is I think it comes from the Phil Ward Potatohead theory is that everyone sees everything as a variant. And I don't think it's helpful from a mental standpoint, what I'm trying to describe to somebody. So in other words, like, even if it's unrelated to a Manhattan a specific cocktail, so many fights, but if it drinks like a Manhattan it's useful for the customer who likes Manhattan's because they can hang their hat on what a Manhattan tastes like, it's useful for them to know that it's in that ballpark. But if you do a bunch of stuff to that drink, even if it is a brown spirit, a you know, an herb wine and some bitters, but it has no taste comparison to a Manhattan or you've done something weird to it, where it doesn't taste like a man anymore. That's no longer a useful peg for them to hang their hat on and therefore it doesn't really should fit into what you talk about it. But I think it can

also be like when when I was bartending I think something that helped me was realizing that there are these kind of master ratios and a lot of in a lot of respects and so that's a great way as a bartender to remember how to make the drink.

Yeah, yeah, but um, yeah, but here's the thing was that like, but like, at what point is it? If you start at one point, even if you start with a basis as a drink, and you're just mute and use mutilate the hell out of it till it's something different Right. So oh, well, it's a it's a Manhattan. It's basically it's neat whiskey. It's basically neat whiskey. And then I, you know, it needed a little bit of sugar and acid. So I added some vermouth. And I wanted a little more bitterness. So I added some, you know, bitters, and then you know, it was a little too strong. So I started it. And then I put like, Yo, terrier twist in it. So yes, basically straight whiskey. You don't mean it's like, it's like, at what point? Is it not straight whiskey anymore? You're on the originals, or the riffs? is sending everybody? Unusual? I'm talking, what I'm talking about is I think Pete like, people, people who drink at bars, I don't really think they give a rat's behind, to be honest. But I think bartenders, when they're thinking about what they're doing, tend to put too much stock in the precedent of what they have what they're doing. And thinking about it that way. Rather than just thinking about the ratios. And for some reason, for some things, the ratios are golden, because they are, you know what I mean, but other times, I think you can get hampered by thinking of yourself as just building variants. And you know, from the Booker and DAX perspective, you guys heard me say it a million times, don't start with a different cocktail, start with a flavor that you want. And so I think that like thinking of everything as a variant of something else, even though it's a useful, it's a useful starting place, because you know, these ratios, I would rather you think about the flavor you're trying to achieve. And if that's best achieved through something that's very close to a Manhattan ratio with a you know, an herb one, then you know, God blessed

if the best thing ratio wise that you ever forced us to do was the three eighths measurement, because nobody uses that. But it's such an easy way to visualize that amount of liquid in a jigger. Rather than like, fat quarter scant half, you know, like those words have a meaning but it's not as precise as normal. People don't call three eight. Nobody does three A's. It's literally just you and Yeah.

It doesn't depend on Ceylan use three eighths

does it? Is it Oh, is

it three eighths honey, ginger, like it's about most people just you know, come

together. Honey, ginger,

did anyone take one last call? Three? Yeah,

sure. Caller you're on the air. Hey,

I thought the show was about food. I had a food question.

Oh, this is the chef existing conditions.

I was curious how we all feel about crispy crabs, bacon, mayonnaise and tomatoes.

Well, softies here's the problem with tomatoes is that softshell crabs and tomatoes. They don't live in the same season.

So crabs, softshell crabs are in season, right? They just came in to season. Tomatoes are kind of always in season somewhere. But we're like a month away from having great tomatoes.

I mean, I'm not gonna I'm not gonna let the cat out of the bag at what we're gonna do.

As long as there's a lettuce layer between the tomato and the crab. I like

it. I like a hothouse color. I like a hothouse compared tomato and everybody. Any bacon on it's gonna be bacon man. Everybody knows my favorite fact about softshell crabs, right? The fact that they when you come to You're breaking up on me, I think you're breaking

the bar right now. Sounds like you're at the bar. Menu discussion right now

right now. This is by the way people in case you want to know what like my actual life is like it's pretty much like this all the time. My favorite thing about softshell crabs is after you rip their gills out. And after you cut their eyes off, they bred themselves to be the technique I've never seen that of course you have you make good softshell crabs, their legs are still going you throw him in the thing and they're like I will help you read themselves

for about 30 minutes and that my friends is why you want sprightly softshell crabs and not those dead ones that are on the street that have been baking in the freaking sun. You want nice ones that are still moving. When you guys buy correct shorty when you buy when you buy razors Do you sit there and do you do? Do you flick? Do you flick the muscle?

On you pull out you you pull on them and

they stretch back? And you gotta you gotta flick them to get to the radio but I'll tell you what's not a family show Dana Skinner who could not be here came up with the all time bar turn. Oh man. I don't know if we can we cannot talk about it.

It's it's a method of expressing just the right amount of grapefruit or orange or lemon oil from a twist. Yeah. laughing

Yeah, it's a certain kind of slap certain kinds of slap

slap Taniguchi once broke a glass technique. It was incredible. We both were so

good idea last night, but you're not gonna like it either. All right.

I was thinking about doing carbonated oyster shooting

No. Why though? How about we certainly something carbonated and you have your oyster first of all okay with that I was just playing around with the idea. I thought it was funny. I don't know, man. Here's my shorty. Here's my thing with carbonation. Oh, wow, I got booed. Not by not by me that stayed in the booth. So like, for me the issue with carbonation with a lot of things is it takes on the note of unless it's a liquor or a booze, it takes on the note of spoilage. So like, like 1015 years ago, when everybody was carbonating fruit. I was like, bad idea because when you start eating fruit and the fruits carbonated, you're like dead fruits gone south. You know what I mean? It's like it's not good for mente

I have a specific question for Jack. Yes. Hold on one moment. Oh, God.

It's actually a two part question. Acid grapefruit has not clarified Chris. Murphy. This

is Bobby Murphy aka Vinnie Barbarino, aka my cousin Vinnie Barbarino, aka Bobby

formerly next formerly Alinea, formerly,

and I went to middle school with

known each other forever. He was way cooler

than me when he was a year younger.

Go for the older Bobby

sorry, what's part two? Do you want the kin fried chicken lunch special? Yes, yes. 1,000,000%. You can tell they're at the bar because you can

go here pretty soon as resuming. Yeah. All right here in the neighborhood. Thank you for taking our call. Of course. Thank

you. Sorry.

Love you guys. We'll see you soon. All right. So

Bobby's question. Well, yeah, yeah. I told the people we have a tasting today. Like

I said, grapefruit is not clarified. And guess I would like fried chicken.

Listen, Bobby. It's very simple. Is the drink gonna get shaken? If so do not clarify. Are you going to shake? Do not clarify. That's one of the great things about this drink here is that there's nothing it's double citrus. If you will

shake it is opaque. There's stolen from Kevin Dunn.

Okay, you're gonna get a reaction from us on that one. All right, that's fair.

Wait. But like that's why I like this. This fake sidecar. This fake sidecar. It's got over an ounce and citrus in it. So it's textured up the up the wazoo.

Is it a sidecar?

I started with I started with the concept of the sidecar. That's what I'm trying to say I started with the sidecar. And I ended up here, started with a sidecar. Now we're here. All right, right. Right. Okay, well enjoy the rest of the show. Well, it's so good for taking the call. All right. Thank you. Yeah. This is the kind of arguments we have constantly at the bar. Like we're like, every someone has an idea. And then everyone else is like, no. Like, until until we have

I mean, it's like, I gotta get out of here.

All right, listen, I want to thank BTS crew, the best crew anyone could ever ask for. I love all you guys.

I promise this shout outs to max Brzozowski barback. extraordinaire. He couldn't be here, but we love him.

Yeah. Anyway, thanks. Thanks for coming. And I hope to see you guys at the new place. You're always family. Thanks. Thank you. All right, thanks.

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