Cooking Issues Transcript

PSA: Don't Say Dry-Brining


Hello, everybody, and welcome to a brand new series on heritage radio network called the culinary call sheet where we give a peek into the back kitchen of culinary media. I'm your host, April Jones,

and I'm your co host, Darren bresnitz. Part of why we started the show was to offer an unofficial mentorship for anyone who's interested in learning about all aspects of food and video, whether that's TV, social media online, or just something you want to do for fun.

Absolutely what was once niche or a little silly, as I'm sure you remember, Darren, when we started out, this man has now become such a massive playing field for so many creatives using food as the medium.

It's something that has driven us professionally and personally, for so many years. What excites me the most about this show is that we're going to sit down with some of the industry leaders to hear how they made it and what drew them into this industry.

With 20 years in the culinary production game ourselves. We're hoping we can give through these conversations an insider's view into personal stories from the field, as well as an in depth behind the scenes look into some of the most popular food programming. In today's evolving culinary media landscape.

We'll be covering everything from how to style your food, to how to license IP, to developing your own ideas, and some tips from the masters of how to host your own show.

Yeah, it's a little bit of conversation, how to and how do you do the things that you do in color media, which I'm so excited about? I love so many of the guests that are coming on this season. We have talent from Food Network from Vice media eater refinery 29,

we've met some of the best people in the world both in front of and behind the camera. And we're bringing them all together to share their stories, their delicious adventure and their unique journey into this crazy world.

So to be the first to hear our episodes when they launched this fall, go to wherever podcasts are streaming, and hit subscribe and make sure to give us a follow at the Culinary call sheet on Instagram.

This episode is brought to you by Ben to table a monthly food subscription service for avid home cooks focused on delicious and sustainable pantry items. Learn more at Ben to table.com that's b e n t o ta B le.com And when you use code Hrn for a new subscription you get $20 off and we at Hrn get 10 bucks

All right, here we go. Ready 321 done None None. Oh my god wait how's the song actually go? You gotta go buddy lady. You got it. I can't do anything without the daily dance. But But

Dan and Dan and

Buddy Lilina

That's too late though. Right? That's too far along.

crap on it. Hello and welcome to cooking.

And cooking just coming to you. From my house because of COVID-19. Radio what is what do we call this? from Manhattan? Here we are. We got Matt in some booth somewhere where the hell are you Matt?

I am in Rhode Island. Yeah.

Are you in coastal Rhode Island or not? Indeed. Yeah, Newport. Nice over there. Are you did you break into the breakers house? Are you living in some robber baron house right now?

I sleep in one mansion. But I recorded our own shows in a different one. Yeah,

I mean, the trick of that is right, that those things are all closed down because of the COVID. So you could totally throw a rock through that and just live in one of those things. It'd be pretty sweet.

Well, yeah. And if I can live long enough, I establish squatters rights and then we are in the money.

Yeah, sweet. Me at least one of us will have some money coming out of this thing. What about Ustaz? Where are you?

I'm in Hell's Kitchen.

Where do you want to be?

I came from Connecticut. Yeah. I don't have good reception there.

People. I want you to know the only reason the Stasi came back into this COVID hotbed of New York City is for you people so that she could have decent internet so that she could record this as a true Anastasia?

Yeah, my internet's okay. But I wasn't 100% Sure.

Yeah, we also got Cat Cat, what's up?

I'm still in Bushwick.

So I'm here. So for those of you that don't know, you know, we're not allowed to congregate together, the radio booth is shut down. Roberta has to shut down as are all restaurants except for takeout here in New York. So we will not take calls this week. But hopefully Matt, we can figure out in on coming weeks, how to take calls and if we need to. So anyway, so we're doing this this way. This is our first time doing it. our chat room is still open. Not that you can know that because you can't listen to me live. But had you known the chat room would be open now. And you could be chatting in things to Matt while we're while we're doing is that all accurate?

And we did actually get a question in the chat Tony. minutes ago, so let's do it. We can do that you won't do that now. Okay.

I was not officially late. I had pushed it to 1230 because I was dealing with Museum of food and drink stuff, and it wasn't gonna go alive anyway, so I was not late, because it didn't have a

day was technically in this thing at like, 1130. Yeah, earliest appearance of all time.

Well, I had to test the equipment, man. I'm an equipment guy.

I know, I really appreciate that you are one of the only people to get a failure of the equipment here and figure it out yourself.

Yeah, baby. Yeah, I am a failure. I am a failure of equipment. Now. Right. So you want to explain how this whole HRM thing is working? What's going on? Or no.

I mean, we are doing everything remote. We're trying to keep people I mean, a lot of people are talking about you know, Coronavirus effects on the food industry. So we want to be keeping out all getting all these shows to air. So we're just doing it. Doing it over streams for now from across across the globe.

Yeah, yeah. Does that we're supposed to be talking about the effective COVID on the food industry. If you recall that,

I think I think we can talk about that if you want to. And we can very intentionally not talk about that if you don't want to because some people I'm sure are desperate to think about something else for a second. Yeah.

Yeah, I know, existing conditions, we're still trying to figure out apparently, so for those of you that don't know how this works. In New York, bars, and restaurants are not allowed to serve cocktails to go right just not allowed. So that you know, when they order us to shut down for everything but takeout that pretty much shuts us down straight up. So you know, everyone's gone. It turns out for a tipped employee, it's better usually to lay them off right away, so that they can get their unemployment based on their wages, including tips, at least whatever they've declared. So that now is the only time in your life where it was good for you to have declared all of your tips on income taxes. So apparently, New York City has said that they are relaxing. The rules for having cocktails leave the building. We haven't figured it out yet. But other places have part of that say, delivery issues nostos places that are already hooked up with delivery issues because of food. I probably have an easier time of navigating this but Anastasia has many choice words to say about seamless GrubHub caviar and the like, Is that not true? some choice words and fasciae

Yeah, and I think a lot of restaurant people, like on social media have been asking all those delivery places to stop charging the insane prices, percentages that they take, like I've seen everybody ask. So then everyone knows the same way.

Why don't you tell them what they tell them what they take?

They take like 25 to 30% of that we

order, right? And so you're like, well, but then you don't have to have the service people's like what what, like, you know what I mean? It's like, like, honestly, like doing takeout. It would is great for our non tipped staff. But I don't see how it even helps our tip staff, you know what I mean? I don't know.

And so far those organizations have not caved to that they have offered like what is it they've offered like a stay on paying the Commission's but you the other restaurants still owe that money. They just aren't going to pay it right now. Which is that's BS. That's about the same.

Yeah, well, it's almost like like giving someone an interest free loan. I mean, that's nice if you had planned on taking a loan now. That's great. If you had planned on taking a loan out. I mean, when I want to borrow money, man, I want to borrow an interest free for sure. You know what I mean, but like, you know, and whatever. Okay, enough. COVID griping enough. COVID grabhitch, we answer some way. What's the chat question?

Yeah, here we go. Nathan page wrote in. I've got a question for cooking issues about some very heritage breed turkeys. It's less than a month before turkey season opens in North Carolina for the last two years.

They have a like it was springtime turkey season there.

Apparently. Yeah. By the way.

Before you read this question, the Stasi and I were at modernist pantry. Modernist pantry.com. How long ago was like last like Friday, Thursday. So we were we were driving up there soaking up the COVID on our ride up in a in a transit van that we had rented getting all of the spins hauls that we're going to refurbish. And on the way back, we're barreling down the highway at like, you know, I don't know 7580 And this giant thing full of spindles. And what do I see on the side of the road? is a giant dead wild turkey, no shoulder, no shoulder. How am I supposed to get it? How am I supposed to get in plus, we needed to get back in the stock community dinner. We thought we were going to hit traffic going through, you know, 995 on the way home, and we're there and we had the opportunity to have the Wild Turkey for dinner the wild turkey roadkill and I feel like I'm never going to have that opportunity it looked in okay shape I mean its wing was hard effed. But rest. We had the room in the back of the truck imagine. Pull it open the back, throw the turkey in with the spins off and go. It's a lifelong dream. I've never been. Every time I've seen a major roadkill I've never been in a situation where I had the proper vehicle, like something I could hose down something that's a rental, you know, I mean, or it's something big. I mean, I'm not going to eat a woodchuck off the side of the road. A lot of what you see on the side of the road here is like woodchucks like raccoons. Skunks, I've cooked raccoon No, thanks. You know what I mean? Like, but at least the raccoons over here I've cooked No, thanks. I mean, maybe a young raccoon is delicious. Who knows? But you see a turkey on the side of the road that was clearly hit by a vehicle. And like that's prime eats right there.

I'm very How would you know if it's good to eat or not? Like if it's been there too long.

When when you feel it right. You see how fresh it seems to me if it's gone into rigor, it's been there a long time, right? If it hasn't gone into rigor yet, and it seems relatively fresh and it doesn't have any like, effed up like so sometimes if you look at stuff and it's all completely like you ever been to Fire Island any of you guys ever been to Fire Island? Yeah, yeah, yeah. You ever seen those demented, mangy deer that they have there? Were like they have some sort of flesh eating virus on the on the fern, their furs all gone. And they're covered in tax, and they're just like just the grossest deer in the whole world. You've seen these cute ones. Now we didn't look close enough. Were you looking closely? Like, aside from the meat, look, what Fire Island has is beaches, blueberries, poison ivy and mangy deer. That's what they got. You know what I mean? It takes Oh my God, so many ticks. So you got poison ivy and ticks. These are my favorite things. Blueberry. And this means you deer, but my point is if I saw that deer on the side of the road, it'd be like, Pass. Pass. But this this turkey looked this turkey looked fantastic. So you know. Anyway, so go on to Nate's Turkey question.

I was just wondering, Anastasia or were you if he had pulled over the van. Were you? Are you like down with this plan? You'd be like, Yeah, all right. loaded up. Yeah. All right. Cool. Just checking. All right. For the past two years, I've been fortunate enough to kill a turkey each spring. But I foolishly did not save any meat for Thanksgiving, wondering what

is this making? Or Matthew talking? Matthew is a vegetarian. So I'm assuming it's Nate.

It's not It's definitely not me. I've never killed anything bigger than a mosquito. I'm wondering what Dave or others might recommend if I should do if I'm fortunate enough to kill another bird, freeze hole, freeze one half of it freeze only the breasts, my experience with the legs slash thighs has been that they need to be slow cooked. I'm not concerned about having a whole turkey to present for Thanksgiving either. Thanks. And I hope you all are doing well through all of this.

But you just you just I mean, first of all, I know you've killed one of those water bugs. So mosquito fly,

Dart, fine. I've killed a silver fish killed all the critters like that.

What is the silver fish? Same as an airway with the weird horns on it?

The cylinder versus the really long one that's got a bajillion legs. It's very disturbing to have in your apartment.

Yeah, and I like that the one that eats books.

I don't know.

Anyway, so what I would say is, you should you lost me a little bit at I don't care about the whole bird at Thanksgiving, right. If you don't care about the whole bird of Thanksgiving, then sure break it down into break it down into the breast that and the legs, bust out the other stuff for stock and do it but what I would do is I would I would try to freeze it whole I would use the salt, the salt freeze. So I would like I would do like a crushed ice salt packing in, it's going to like kind of brine it as it freezes it. And then it'll freeze real fast so that you get a real fast free so you're not losing you. So like, you know, like Clarence Birdseye, the way they like the feared if you're freezing like thin layers, you do like Ziploc bags with salt and ice and you layer things in between the ziplock bags or you put something in the ziplock bag and immerse it in the salt solution. But if you're going to brine the sucker anyway, why not just immerse it in the ice, salt slush, get a little the salt in beforehand, let it soak in it should freeze very very quickly. And I think that's going to maintain the highest quality over time. So then the idea is once it's frozen, you want to try to get as much of the oxygen out there and the only problem with that is going to be the cavity because the cavity is like unless you vacuum it. It's going to be hard to get all of the air out but it shouldn't be too much of a problem as long as you just get like you know most of the air out I don't think you're going to get much freezer burn as long as you're in a very deep freeze situation that doesn't have a lot of movement up or down. Most hunters I would guess have a fairly good chest freezer. You know that doesn't do a lot of defrosting. And so if you do that you can maintain pretty high pretty high quality All right, is that was that not a reason? We'll answer.

That sounds sounds great.

All right. So more more chat questions, but again, you can't know that I'm asking you for them because you can't hear me. Okay. Mark, by the way, Booker is here eating a hard boiled egg because of course there's no school in New York either. So yeah. Can you hear him in the background? Yeah, Booker, you have anything to say to the cooking issues people? I miss you guys. It Booker. I don't know if you can hear him. The microphones over here. Booker. He says he misses coming on the show and talking to you guys more. And he doesn't know he no longer wants people to associate him with Shut up dead he no longer wishes to be associated with it was cruel of me. I should not have done that. You know, he can't he can't he can't hear you guys. He can't hear me. No because I have headphones on this is how this works. This is like how she can't he can't hear you. But if you have a question I can give it to him.

Tell him it was cruel to not show up on time at work.

Natasha, your former boss says it was not cruel of you to not show up on time at work. So it was cruel of you to not show up it was cruel of the F train to delay me 20 minutes and skip the Skip 14 st No Yeah.

An hour and a half. There's no way

she says you were late over an hour and a half and there's no possible excuse for that. That's almost a no call no show and if you aren't, you know fundamentally family you'd be on your ear. Yeah, what do you think? Did she even hear my Yes, she heard your response. Yes. Yeah, but she's not buying the delayed F train excuse. T Like father like son with the delayed train. Yes. Yeah. All right. So Mark wrote in from Kamloops which is that place in Canada? We talked about what was it that they have in Kamloops again. There was something that they do specifically in Kamloops. But I can't remember what it was. Mark from Ken Lewis. By the way, Mark, you made a comment about Anastasia and moistness. She does not appreciate it right stars.

Well, there's no equivalent dick. Like thing. You know,

we're not going to say what he's What do you mean?

Well, nobody could say your job. Or his job. Aaron.

What? What are you even talking about now?

Oh, is this not the question? Are you said speculum?

Yeah, like, what does this have to do with with with a dude's junk? I don't understand the relation.

Because I can't be like, well, it's not gross. Like the word is not gross. It's just inappropriate. And I can't like shout back with some equivalent for him.

What about like, proctologist or holding the holding the sack and cough that sort of thing.

I get well, I it's not intrusive.

Now. You ever had someone grab your your sack and make you cough? That doesn't sound okay. All right. We will ignore this section of the go back to the question.

I'm just like, how long have a section does Pro Tools let me bleep canopy 30 seconds. Not clear.

I mean, it's not live anyway. So it's like the

part of being a human. It's not like, you know,

no, the question is just about the word moist. The question is whether moist is a reasonable word. That's what we're talking. Anyway, so back to a separate thing about bleeping Have you seen that the new episodes are relatively new episodes of Narcos, Narcos, Mexico, in Narcos Mexico, there are actual Mexican government officials that they name and they instead of naming the real people like they do for like El Chapo and like, you know, you know, Felix, I'm how they are and all these people, they just say them on the TV and then bleep them which is kind of funny. Anyway. That's neither here nor there. All right. That is it's neither here nor there. Anyway. Mark from sunny Kamloops. I was happy when you asked so happy when you answered my question on air. I felt like John Candy's character and splash when he got his letter published in Penthouse and by the way, I was having this discussion with a bunch of people really can you imagine there was a time in my lifetime where your only access to that sort of thing was to go purchase a magazine How crazy is that?

conversation was with me Oh anyway

was it was memorable he really appreciated your participation in the conversation

going a little Campbell up here locked in the house okay. I can't find and DJ in this bucolic backwater style is my pronouncing that right by the way. What is my Indonesia?

Yeah, India

that's how you pronounce it. Yeah. Which Jah or yah yah, yah, yah, yah, yah. What?

The way Cat said it Yeah,

do you do Yeah. So so let's just what we were talking about. So this is an extremely high fat quote unquote, sausage it's really more of a spreadable sausage. It's kind of like it's a lie to say it has the texture of like a liverwurst because it like is more kind of grainy spread it but it's got a lot of fat in it. It's roughly 5050 fat and meat and not like hyper lean meat either. And then a boat ton of spicy pepper right? So that's what we're talking about for India as became you know, very popular. The first one that I had in the US was made by Chris cos Constantino, years ago at Encanto. And his at his Salem area became fairly popular, fairly easy to get now in New York, but still relatively a niche product. I believe it's Calabrian anyway, I can't find Mark writes and I can't find him. Do you in this be colic backwater? I was wondering if Filipino longganisa could be a substitute the stuff I can find locally. Apparently the longganisa has Aspergillus listed on the ingredients. Thanks for your time love the show regards mark. So the Aspergillus is just a lactic acid bacteria so that's like backto firm. So you need you're going to all of these sausages are going to be somewhat fermented to drop the pH down. So whether they add back to firm or whether they add Aspergillus and this goes for the longganisa or for the India it's going to have its pH dropped with with that. So I don't think that whether or not has Aspergillus is a measure of anything listed. It's interesting to listen on the menu because I'm sorry on the ingredients cuz I didn't know that you had the list back to firm on the ingredients anyway. I don't feel it the longganisa is not going to be an accurate substitute. Every recipe I looked at every image I saw of the Filipino stuff is not spreadable. So it's not and do you equivalent, more garlicky, less red peppery, not spreadable lower fat ratio. So I'm gonna go ahead and say no, not a substitute. What do you guys think?

I have no experience with this.

Yeah, all right. stars and stars.

Why do you think she wouldn't be on Zappos now? If she would be Zappos?

Hey, hey, let like anyway, we had some Twitter. We had some Twitter back and forth with some people after I said they've been Stasio pays attention. I'll be I'll be on time. We've had it on kind of both. I've had it on both sides. I've had Twitter interactions on both sides of this issue. So we could talk about that later. Cool. Mike writes in about hot sauce. Hi, Anastasia and Dave, a longtime listener. I have a two part question about hot sauce production stasis. Like of course, it's a two part question. I've been making a bottling hot sauce out of my restaurant magic bird fried chicken for the last year. I'm now at a point of setting up a production space just to keep up with the demand of the sauce. Especially now man you don't want. It's like, I wonder we have so much. So yesterday when we went into again, I'm going to get your question. I'm going to give you your time. Cold mic, but like we went into the bar yesterday, and we had all of this fruit and we're like, Yo, we're not going to open up so we just juiced it all. I have a we're gonna have to turn it all the cordial. I'm going to take all of that lime juice. We were going to shake and all that lemon juice. We're going to shake and turn into cordial. You have a who wants to buy like how much can I sell a bottle a quarter for?

Ask our rabid listeners.

Okay, how much would you buy a bottle to support the show and the bar?

Well, I mean, it's the let's be honest. It's the bars stuff.

They'll make money there.

Yeah. Anyway, whatever.

Okay, as long as you branded as Coronavirus, core cordial, who wouldn't want to purchase that?

Oh, COVID acid. Jessie COVID cordial.com. Yeah,

everybody, everybody wants that, that people are already logging in. I can see it.

By the way, the Word of the Week. Clearly, the Word of the Week is fomite. You guys familiar with fomites? No, really, you've made it through this whole so far. Megilla. And you don't know the word fomite. Oh my god. This is for anyone that doesn't know this word yet. This is the Word of the Week, F O M I T E fomite. And it is any surface that can sustain and transmit a virus or bacteria after it has left the host. So for instance, elevator button fomite cardboard box fomite. And the new studies that are coming out say that this sweet, sweet COVID can live for a long time on at you know in a fomites situation on things like cardboard. So here's the thing, like we're all going out and we're having our Fresh Direct, which I now call fomite direct. And the people who are doing that are all delivering this stuff. They're not. They're not gloved up. They're not masked up, and they're just foam writing all over all this stuff. So the good news is is that anyone in a warehouse it's touching your stuff and delivering it Right is giving you the sweet sweet fomite. Now they haven't proven that there is too much transmission via fomites. But they have shown that the virus is viable on surfaces like cardboard and stainless for like days. So that's good news, right? Anyway, yeah,

this is making me feel great.

fomite anyway, so every time I walk around, I've been calling I've been calling DAX a fomite. I've been calling my dog a fomite. My dog like picks up food off the ground outside and I'm like so minds because like it used to be, my dog would pick up aluminum foil on the street and you would grab it its snout and try to rip, you know, prize his jaws apart and shake the aluminum foil out so that he doesn't swallow it and get you know, gastric blockage. Yes, he ate raisin that's off the ground once we thought he's gonna die. Did you know since you have a dog $600? Yes, we paid $600 To have the dog monitor for kidney failure. grapes and raisins can kill a dog. Did you guys know this?

I did not know that. I didn't know that about great kidney failure. Yeah,

yeah. Weird. Like even a couple good to know. Yeah. And there's no way to know what even a couple even a couple of grapes or raisins can take a dog down. And they haven't figured out why they haven't figured out like some sort of genetic test to figure out whether your dog is going to have that problem. Anyway, back to this hot sauce question. I've been making battling hot sauce out of magic bird fried kitchen for the last year. And now at the point of setting up production space to keep up with the demand. My first question is what would be the best method to strain the cooked mash. Currently I blend the cooked mash and a Vitamix and then pass it through a fine mesh Shinhwa. But in the new space, we'll be cooking 75 litre batches and tilting kettles and blending them with a heavy duty immersion blender. I'm unsure what the best way is trading that amount of sauce would be. Here's what I would do. So super back material is nylon straining cloth. And if you go on Alibaba sizes, or the Chinese factories back online yet, yeah. Alright, so you can go back on Alibaba find this stuff, you need a like a mesh, nylon mesh straining cloth, we use the same material at the bar that we use, that is used in making actual super bags, which are the strainer bags. So then you make these big, you don't even have to make a bag, you can just lay the cloth, it comes in like three foot or four foot wide. I think even taller actually maybe like four and a half foot wide pieces, you lay it and then you pour it the equivalent into a giant colander. And if you really want to do it right, you then get yourself like we have but my mind only does like I think 30 liters at a time a like hydraulic press go to harbor freight and get yourself like a 20 ton hydraulic press. And then just get some big plates made out of something that's food grade that won't bend like for instance Delrin or some kind of plastic and make it fit inside of a large metal colander. Put that on top of the Delrin piece so that it can drain properly. And just squeeze the ever loving hell out of it in one of these bags. Now, I will warn you, you should use like a triple double or triple layer of this nylon because once you really bear down on the press, you will burst the bag somewhat and you need to also have the clearance between the colander and the and the pressing foot just right. And also I don't know if a regular colander will burst I use I made my own kind of cider press out of Delrin you could just buy a cider press and then convert it to use a 20 ton press to do it if you want but I think that's going to give you the driest possible situation is is a like a like a super bags slash pain strain or nylon in some sort of a hydraulic press situation for that kind of quantity. What do you guys think? Good job. Good job. Good job answer.

Good answer.

I look people like normally like I'm bad anyway. So like when you're giving a talk people like how to talk. I'm like, What do I know I'm on the spectrum. I can't tell what people think. And then like, now that I'm talking into like a computer with no video, I really I can't see anything except for Booker coming up behind me and eating Cheerios. That's the only thing I can see. You know what I mean? So like, I have no idea how this is going anyway,

how many meals have your children consumed since we started recording this show, by the way,

there's been nothing but meals because like, you know, Booker's current teacher with his distance learning is, quote, unquote, sick. And so you know, he's now not even distance learning. You know what I mean? Anyway, part two of cold. Mike's question is, in order to keep the best consistency of my sauces, are there any tools you would recommend? I'm already getting a pH meter good to have. But I'm wondering if I should invest in a viscosity meter to ensure all my batches have the same viscosity? I don't really know about that. That seems to me to be like, I don't really know. Especially because I've never seen them. But I've never used one. And I mean, if you were going to do very, very large batches, and you weren't going to have be there to correct them by hand. I would say maybe but I think if you're still having a little bit of a chef's touching there. I don't really think that's necessary but you say should you getting a brix meter ie a refractometer to make sure the sugar content remains constant from batch to batch? Yes, you should definitely get one of those because you're going to want to definitely correct for that, but you should do it of the mash if you can, but or get the bricks of the peppers before you add the salt because salt depending on the percentage you add is going to radically kind of affect the brix. Anyway. Thanks for taking the time to read this. And I will send some bottles of hot sauce once production starts in the summer. Cold mic.

Sounds great. I'm excited for the hot sauce. Yeah,

I love a hot sauce. Wait, I

have a thought I have a thought on discussing. My dad makes syrup. He makes cane syrup. And he did start using it viscosity meter like a pretty low tech one. But just as like a safety net. He still eyeballs it for the thickness. But he says that it's a nice tool to have

when you call me anyway. But he didn't. He didn't just go by brick. So you actually doesn't bricks and viscosity meter.

I will have to follow up on that. But I do know that he checks the viscosity

is there because part of the problem is if he's going to thicken the sauce with let's say Xanthan, right? Xanthine has a very specific like shear thinning capability. So your stationary viscosity is going to be much different from a lot of a lot of these hot sauces are thickened with Xanthan. So it's like I think a lot is going to depend mean syrup is good because it's a relatively like stable viscosity curve because it's not it's viscosity isn't dependent upon long chain molecules like hydrocarbons I forget the name of the one that we looked at getting once but yeah, but do you have some sort of ability to put into something that may be cold Mike could look at of the one that your dad uses? Yeah, I'll

ask him what it is.

Actually, can we go to break right now and then we're gonna break

right back with cooking issues COVID style

This episode is brought to you by Bender table a monthly food subscription service for avid home cooks focused on delicious and sustainable pantry items. Bend to tables founded by Ben Simon a longtime food lover advocate and experimenter then goes around the country finding the stuff that you would buy if you were vacationing somewhere cool like Charleston or California and he buys it for you and sends it to you in a box vendor table has three different subscription plans one pantry essentials incredible dry staples each month. Rancho Gordo beans Geechie boy grits and community grain pastas all excellent. By the way, global delicacies is another choice and it's a way to explore the cuisine of different countries and cultures. delegacy boxes might include razor clams from Spain tinned obviously, we look cote from Mexico or grilled artichokes in oil from Italy. vendor table includes both the pantry essential and the global delicacy plan by purchasing any subscription you'll help sustainable well produced ingredients and small producers stay alive in today's big business environment. Ben is sending Anastasia nice and boxes in the next couple of weeks. And so when we get them we'll open them up and we'll tell you what we think start your monthly subscription at bender table.com. That's B e n t o t a ble.com use the discount code Hrn to get $20 off a new subscription and bento table will donate $10 to support cooking issues and all of HR ends programming.

Alright, so you can come back whenever

we mean like right away, like right now. Like we're coming back. Exactly. And we're back. Okay, so we have some questions here. So, Joanne, I hope I'm pronouncing your name right. Wow. Right. J O with an N J OA with an annual Oh, how would you pronounce that cat since you're the pronunciation master today? Say it again? J Oh, a with a with an Enya over the top. Oh, wow. Ciao. Ciao.

I don't know when you know.

Wow, isn't that you? You're supposed to know the person. Anyway.

I'm having a hard time visualizing that.

You don't know or notes. Okay. Okay. longtime listener. First time email are creepy dude that worked at Blanca and most Tuesdays tried to get your attention and a potential nickname failed. You couldn't have been that creepy. If the Stasi didn't give you a nickname. You could not have been that creepy. My rightsize Yeah. I mean, the Stasi. It gives plenty of people. nicknames. Wait,

do we all have nicknames? Do I have a nickname Anastasia?

I think he's talking about the people that work at Roberta's. Yeah.

Realize that if you're frequently nicknaming everyone around you

know, you don't have one

member Satan's little helper? Yes.

He looked like a

cross between the Hitler Youth and the Santas elf. And he would like go around. I

don't know which one that is. I know who Freddie Mercury is. But I don't know which one that is. Come on.

Man stars. You remember who I'm talking about? Right? before your time they might have

ever before my time Yeah.

Anyway I'm also a fresh culinary institute slash ICC farm to table graduate and send your Dave Arnold's antics endeavors are mythical. I sometimes work at the schools cookery events and every time something explodes Dave has mentioned Have I mentioned on the air before the time when the pastry chef there Juergen thing was hearing and David is there. And we used to have these, these ice cream machines, these tailor ice cream machines. So I think we had a Carpigiani like a like a lb 100. But we also had the the Taylor tabletop, air cooled, you know, batch machines. And Sam Mason ice cream, you know, magnate Sam Mason from Oddfellows was like, Yo, we carbonate ice cream. And I'm like, Sam, you know, no, I don't think no, we can't because too much of this stuff is frozen. So there's not enough water base left. So it's not like a slushie machine where you know, over a third of the liquid is still liquid. And we can carbonate that as I can plus those machines are meant to hold pressure. It's just not going to work. He's like, but can you do it? Can you do it? I'm like, You know what, come to the school, we'll give it a shot. So he comes to school. And I try to plug all of the holes in the tailor up and just put like a light, like a light co2 pressure into that thing while I was spinning. Let's just say it took many days to get all the ice cream base off of all of the surfaces of that kitchen and I was never forgiven ever in the pastry department for that. So the other time this started, do you remember that time we were trying to heat rocks in the kitchen, and I was like this was upstairs on the fourth floor because we were working on Hearthstone. So like Korean stone bowls, I was working on hot stones. This is when we were developing the red hot poker, right? And so I was like, what if we tried to heat just you know, we tried to he stones, and we threw the stones and you know, like the way that they do hot stones out of a fire for like, you know, like sauces and like boiling things in the old days is the oldest form of boiling people. You get a leather, you get a leather container or wooden container. You take a hot rock out of the fire. You throw it into the container you boil. So I knew in the back of my head, I was like, Look, a lot of rocks contain water in them, right? And if you got a rock that contains water and you heat the heck out of it, sucker might might explode. So I was like, well, there's no one here. I'm just gonna put a bunch of rocks on this burner, turn it on and walk away and see what happens. And I didn't know that again. Pastry pastry chef was coming in to do some prep work. Anastasia and I had gone down to our Yeah, we had gone down to our trash hole because the Stasi and I worked in a trash room. Like, like literally we were in a trash closet. And we weren't happy to have it. And so we're like, boom, and then like, like we ran downstairs. Oh my god, the look the look on that chest face. She was not pleased with us, like rock shards everywhere, ever. So come by and then there was a time that like, I think I told this one there was a time we were carbonating and I needed to carbonate something. And for some reason the school had a what's it called? They had made a deal with Fiji water. And like I've never been a fan of shipping water. 1000s of miles. It makes no damn sense to me at all. But like, especially a water with no taste right? And no offense to Fiji. I guess we're not gonna sponsor this but like Fiji water is just water in a square bottle, right? The other terrible thing about square bottles is they cannot take pressure. And so the Stasi you know how impatient I get? Yeah. Yeah. So like, I'm there. I'm down in the amphitheater. I'm like, I need a cargo bottle. Nothing. I need a cargo bottle. Nothing. I need a cargo bottle. Nothing. So I just don't have Fiji out. I'm like, eff it. Boo. It was coffee. I put the coffee in. I carve it. Boom, boom. Just like caught like a line of coffee around the entire back of the amphitheater was awesome. The best. So anyway, I was sounds great. Oh, it was great. It was great. I loved it. But you know, look, I would say a good 80% of the time my crap on it. Let's just get it done actually does get it done. Right. What do you think's?

90 75%? Yeah, which I think

is fine, close. Fun. So, you know, in the Stasi, and I especially here when people sit around talking about what they could do, and then doing nothing, instead of just doing something and then

12 out of 12 straight hours, meaning that

yeah, just because and people are like, Oh, but you could do this, or you could do that. Or I could sit around talking about going and getting these things until I'm dead. I could just go you know what I mean? It's just like, even if it's not the best do something is doing something is almost always better than doing nothing as long as you as long as you must do something do something right or you know what

makes me upset about this whole have to stay in thing was that everybody's complaining about having to stay in. But before this, all people wanted to do was stay in and watch Netflix and watch their shows. So they're getting exactly what they want it.

I think this is you, Anastasia, you, you hate those people. And so now you have some sort of thing against them because you don't have a Netflix account.

No, no, I have all the accounts. I just don't waste time doing that. But like,

you just waste money paying for those accounts. What's going on here? Yeah,

there's like a comedy special like that. I have to see I'll watch it. But I probably turn those apps on like, once every two months. Once everything.

I was ready, I was ready to get all the cooking issues listeners together to fundraise for you to have like a Hulu account.

No. It's not the money.

Who's good

at the SNL news,

that they're not coming back for like, yeah, that's the worst part.

No,

that's the worst part. That's the worst part.

I mean, in terms of my entertainment, you know,

you know, people dying like everyone was my entertainment.

I don't watch garbage, like TV on whatever people watch.

Yeah, so Anastasia really, really appreciates everyone else's entertainment tastes.

Gonna be we both want to be they want they're gonna be some enterprising individual who like recreates SNL on, you know, like a web stream? Never.

You can't have SNL without the audience

the same? Exactly. That's what I said.

What are you gonna do put a canned laugh track on it? You're gonna do that. Okay. So back to the last question. The actual question, why are pacojet so expensive? What is up with that is a better a cheaper option in PDX. Future? Okay, here's the thing, we had initially looked into doing something, maybe the reason they're expensive is because they're made, they used to be expensive, because they had a patent on them. And only one person could make them that the original patent has since run out. And you can find the patent online, the pack, they packages are also almost completely like the gearing and the bells. And all of that are relatively complicated, because instead of instead of doing the feed rate with microprocessor, it's all with gears and belts. So part of that's the expense. It's also made in Switzerland. And if you know how much people make in Switzerland, it's a lot. So like you have to pay like this Swiss person to make it and then also the euro, you know, or the they steal these euros in Switzerland, right? They don't usually use with their francs, and the Swiss franc is probably doing well. Because no matter what happens, they'll take

whatever money was the Swiss franc always does. Well, people believe in the Swiss.

Yeah, because you know, you murder a bunch of people you need someplace to put your money. That's where you go, right.

Where I put my murder money. Yeah, yeah,

you know what I mean, everyone, everyone on all sides needs a place to hide their murder money. So you have this the swiftness of it, and then you have a mechanical parts. But the fact of the matter is, is that if you had to make one from scratch, if you were going to make one in small units, like let's say I was going to make one assassin and we're going to make one, it would probably cost the same if we were going to make it and try to be reasonable. Now if someone like a Cuisinart wanted to make one, then they would cheapen down the materials, it wouldn't be as Robo it would function kind of similarly. But they could probably get it done from let's say, 500 bucks, five 600 bucks. But if you think about it, if Cuisinart is selling something for $600, let's say Cuisinart, they don't really make anything that expensive, but a Cuisinart is selling something for $600 It's they have to be able to make it in a factory for a quarter of that or less, because they have their marketing money, their shipping money, the middle person the blah, blah, blah, blah, blah. So you're saying that you have to get all the parts for that in at like 120 120 $130 and it's just I don't see having that Robo a thing being manufactured right now for that amount of money, but there is no reason that that it's like the VCRs for those of you that remember what a VCR was is like a video cassette recorder. Like they were extremely expensive until they needed to make a jillion of them. And then they were almost free. Even though the mechanics were difficult. It's just we're not in that in that scale zone yet where it becomes reasonable to make but what do you think, job?

Tell me more. Tell me more about this VCR.

Yeah, yes. So it used to be that you know, there was a small gnome inside of your television that's why they were so deep. And you would plug this box and there was like there was like a large like it was shaped and how do I describe this and something that a modern person could understand like I'm Milkbone dog treat box and he would stick it in and then the gnome would like take a scroll out of it and then draw like three or four lines of video very quickly on the inside of the television with like with like a light pen. And that's how television used to work. So accent Yeah. So if you

if you Do televisions like Netflix for old people? Right?

Yeah, yeah. So it used to be like, if you look at like a movie like Robocop and you can really see what 80s television is because they really do even on their 35 millimeter, which obviously is like 35 Oh my god, so it's a low death format, but they show TVs. TVS going. If people are a little bit confused. The RS also like the VHS tapes degrade a lot over time. So it's a little unfair to say taking your your mom and dad's VHS tapes and playing them now is what we used to watch. Because they have degraded quite significantly since the 80s and 90s. But if it was still pretty bad, it was like a couple 100 lines of resolution at most like three 400 lat real lines. They said it was six, eight. So a standard TV definition is six 680 pixels by 400 668-684-8644 80. I think 644 80 If that was the resolution of your iPhone, you would hurl it out the window and like stomp on it and like Scream how you're being deprived of anything. And yet that was the maximum resolution any of us had. And we were we were glad to have it, Brad. We loved it. Anyway.

Dave, just I need this for the show notes. Are you Generation X that we're calling you?

He's a boomer. Okay, douche.

Please, please say you're a boomer please say Boomer. I'm gonna just put Is it okay if in the show notes I put Boomer

No, no, because we're the Forgotten generation everyone forgets that we exist

5050 i My First of all,

it's not Anastasia is the Stasi his parents are boomers Anastasia, even though she is 10 years younger. We're in the same generation.

I'll put Generation X slash Boomer

I'm a millennial. Dave. No, you're not one or you're.

You're not a millennial.

According to the year I am but not by temperament.

By year like my sister's a millennial,

no. hates the weakness of boomers.

What weakness the boomers have boomers made all the money did all the stuff like What weakness do boomers have? Like? It's excellent that it's x. It's weak. Like we have nothing we what do we do?

You know what I mean? You're the survivors, to boomers

that are running for President right now. No, Xers are running for anything anymore. We all got Newt. Yeah. That's why it's X. It has no meaning. Why do you think they call us Gen X? It wasn't because there was a a t a U and A v? And a W before us? It's because we have nothing we are x useless. Nothing blank. Generation nothing.

That really Yes. Yeah.

Yeah. And then what y comes after X, and Z comes after Y Yeah, it's just like, but at the time, everyone was like, Oh, the boomers. They had this. You know, everyone came back from the we had the greatest generation because they fought the war. And then when they came home, they had a lot of sex and they made the boomers and man economy explode and all this stuff happen. And then they're like, what do you what do you do? And we're like, we have sex equals death. And we're the first generation to be more conservative than our parents. Yay.

Do you think that there's going to be a baby boom due to everyone being shut down? Hold up for the next whatever. Mini boom.

Yeah, so people are sitting having a great time over here.

To be honest, it takes two people to create a boom

no Stasi is focused on self generating

part. Mechanic boom. Yeah, he's Cloninger. Yeah, imagine

when I have like a billion kids right now.

If we're if we're supposed to say six feet from each other. That's like kind of the only way we're gonna figure it out.

A you know, yeah, I don't know whether those kinds of fluids or fomites but I assume that they are okay. Okay, Blair writes in hi hello from Poland. Firstly, can I give some obligatory praise and thank you to this podcast has changed the course of my life a few years ago. Honestly, I'm delighted to now have a good reason to write in with a question. Here goes. I was working on espresso concentrate to be stored in individual ampules What do you say about the word ampio? The Stasi to me It reminds me of cyanide. Like I'm gonna get killed. It's okay.

I like the I like the mouthfeel mouthfeel of ampule

and pupil pupil.

How many syllables is it?

Huh ampuls. To write em. You'll or it's two, right?

It's two but with a high letter two syllable ratio.

It's a chewy word. It's a seriously chewy word. And fuel. Yeah. And rehydrated with hot water hopefully with as little flavor degradation as possible when compared to the original product. So far so far. I'm pouring the shot directly onto him. metal plate cooled by a recirculating chiller passing through a thick filter paper vacuum sealing freezing then concentrating through the melting process yields and it yields not an unpleasant result. Although the aromatics are diminished and bitter plenty flavors are emphasized. I've been working on the assumption that preventing the over extraction of residual solids and oxidation is the key. I'm planning on giving bentonite a try for a bit of finding perhaps a cooking issues collective encyclopedia could suggest some further avenues for exploration, as well as concentrating through melting and I'm assuming you mean freeze thaw. The best way when quality is paramount love you guys Blair are here's I'm gonna say about this, I would love the chat room once it exists again, live to weigh in on this. However, I'm gonna go ahead and say that I don't I think oxidation is the thing also autolysis. So like the the compounds that are in espresso are changing that the minute they're made, and you kind of can't stop that from changing. Aly. If you get the chemistry of quality, which is illes book, they've done a lot of research and if you look on the online, go to do a search icon, Elsevier, Google Google Scholar, and then go to Sai hub, and you can look it up people have done a lot of work on the change in the organoleptic qualities of espresso based on for instance, your chill rate. So I'd always thought that rapid chilling was was good. But the elite people seem to think that rapid Schilling is not the best. So this is all stuff that can be tweaked through. But I would say that the solids that are coming out of the shot, are pretty much as extracted as they're going to be. And I wouldn't worry, that's the problem. I think you're losing a lot through the filter paper, including a lot of the oils and things. If you're kind of worried worried about that. I also don't have a lot of experience with Freeze concentration other than with alcohol. And I'm assuming you're going to lose a lot of there's a lot of people working with Freeze concentration now. So I could be wrong, I would say invest, find someone who owns one and do some freeze drying. So freeze drying is amazing. So then you just take you lay it out thin, you freeze dry, it'll turn to a powder, it'll reconstitute pretty well. And I'm going to say that freeze drying is your best opportunity. And because freeze drying is done in a high vacuum, there's not going to be a lot of oxidation because there's not a lot of oxygen. And the water is mobilized fairly quickly. So if there was a problem with continued extraction, I don't think it would be a continuing problem. One thing I'll say about freeze drying is is that obviously you are sucking you know you're losing a lot of volatiles because you're you know, in a sense, sublimating all this stuff off, but you're not losing as much as you would think. And I don't really understand why I would not try bentonite. I mean try it. I take that back, try it and then you can see how much flavor bentonite strips out bentonite is a designates a mean son of a gun in terms of stripping flavor. It's good at finding things, but it's very high stripping in terms of flavor, but give it a shot. Let us know how it works. Chris Wright writes in on olives. Hey, everyone, this is on the chat, wondering if olive curing techniques can be applied to other fruits slash vegetables. Can you think of an agricultural product local to the northeast, I'm in Pennsylvania that might be well suited for this. I mean, the thing about carrying olives me you could obviously oil cure things or salt cure things, for sure. But this specific thing about an olive that is important is that it is intensely bitter. And so most of the curing processes and olives are about mitigating that bitterness. So I don't know that you're going to other than just like, you know, if you figure out some way to like salt, dehydrate and install something. Sure, but I don't think you're going to have the mean hours you're not doing it for the same reason and another vegetable as you are in an olive but you know when the chat room people hear this, maybe they have some suggestions and they can come back on and give it to us for the next show. Sam writes in about cvwd I'm Sam from New Zealand. I'm up to like podcast 370 At the moment, what are we up to now? Matt? What are we done?

Oh, God, I know we're nearing 400

Oh my goodness. I think I must hate myself or just be the biggest beta male that exists has that says, you know, I

hate that. Yeah.

My question is around proper CV slash low temp technique. My problem has begun as a state problem. My usual processes to dry Bride by the way, sand. Dry brining. Where did this word come from?

It's salting, salting,

dry Brian. Everyone says it's now dry brightening. You mean you mean you salted it? You salted it anyway. So my usual process is to dry Brian between an hour and one day with between half a percent and 1% salt I'm guessing by weight then CVD at 55 degrees Celsius for one to two hours. So 55 is like like 100 and was 130 Someone can look that up for me. I can't right now. Then searing it off. This is a good steak but I've noticed the Handicare texture you spoken about in the past. I've also experienced this with D bone lamb leg which I D bone salted with three quarters of a percent salt, reroll and left in the fridge for 24 hours. Yeah, you going to cure that sucker up there and then roasted this to an internal temp of 71 degrees Celsius. To serve to my red phobic parents, you should just blindfold them, cook it to the right temperature and then blindfold them. Do you think that's a better solution?

Yeah, every dish should be served with a side of lying.

No lying. You're not saying what it is. It's just you're blindfolding them. You're like, Here have some land. It's cooked. All true. Or what if they weren't? I wonder if you wore pink glasses? What people's reaction to pink meat would be if you wore pink glasses. This would be an interesting test to force people to wear rose colored glasses. Well, they eat meats cooked at different things and see what their enjoyment is versus not. Wouldn't it be interesting? I would do it. Because my get my well you don't eat meat though. But you would.

That's why I'm up for one test subject. Take

one for the team. All right.

Oh, god, what's happening?

What was the what's going on over there? Matt? You're exploding over here.

That's not me.

It's me. It's our 130 but we're I guess we're going okay.

No, we gotta get off.

I gotta finish this question. All right,

go. All right.

This was good stuff salted throughout the still had that texture that hammy texture near the center of the meat. I missed the more traditional grain structure of the not dry by me but don't want to give up the flavor and softness of a dry brine product. Okay, listen,

you got it,

you got a bunch of different issues going on here. Don't solve the long cooked meat beforehand. Don't do it on something that you want to have a steak texture on. Right? Don't solve it beforehand. Here's what you do. After you cook it. If you cook it for a long time, it's gonna get soft anyway, it just won't be happy and firm. If you don't solve it beforehand. before you serve it, slice it thin and then salt the bejesus afterwards, or if you're only salt it an hour if you're going to cook it only for a couple of hours like a steak, you can salt salt it, put it in the bag, cook it and serve it relatively quickly. Also, if you're cooking to 55 after the internal reaches a temperature depending on the thickness of your steak, drop the temperature down to like 52 to let it ride for a while so you don't get that because firmness will increase over time even at 55 So anyway, so next week we'll deal with Eddie Danelle and his carpet carbonation question because I've been told that we're we're leaving now believe it I will say this Eddie. Cooling is still critical even the person whose video you sent me says so take a look at their comments and we'll talk about it again next week.

Oh wait what

we should ask if they would like to see video of us doing this we don't have the capability. I mean I'm sure some program has the capability so cat

was supposed to ask about all this stuff we cook from Ben's box I cooked all this stuff I cooked I cooked the grid.

We'll do that will do that. And if you're

tripping grids, I made delicious shrimp and grits. I cooked a Rancho Gordo beans they were delicious. You know I've been cooking and cooking up a storm with these. These are all things people need to do inside now that they're trapped inside beans. grits.

We'll talk about it next week next week.

All right cooking issues

cooking issues is powered by simple cast. Thank you for listening to heritage Radio Network food radio supported by you for our freshest content, subscribe to our newsletter. Enter your email at the bottom of our website heritage Radio network.org. Connect with us on Instagram and Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can also find us at facebook.com/heritage Radio Network. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization driving conversations to make the world a better fairer, more delicious place and we couldn't do it without support from listeners like you want to be a part of the food world's most innovative community. Subscribe those shows you like tell your friends and please join the HRM family by becoming a member. Just click on the beating heart at the top right of our homepage. Thanks for listening