Cooking Issues Transcript

Everybody Goes Pesci (feat. Matt Sartwell of Kitchen Arts & Letters)


Hello, everybody, and welcome to a brand new series on heritage radio network called the culinary call sheet where we give a peek into the back kitchen of culinary media. I'm your host, April Jones,

and I'm your co host, Darren bresnitz. Part of why we started the show was to offer an unofficial mentorship for anyone who's interested in learning about all aspects of food and video, whether that's TV, social media online, or just something you want to do for fun.

Absolutely what was once niche or a little silly, as I'm sure you remember, Darren, when we started out, this man has now become such a massive playing field for so many creatives using food as the medium.

It's something that has driven us professionally and personally, for so many years. What excites me the most about this show is that we're going to sit down with some of the industry leaders to hear how they made it and what drew them into this industry.

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We'll be covering everything from how to style your food, to how to license IP, to developing your own ideas, and some tips from the masters of how to host your own show.

Yeah, it's a little bit of conversation, how to and how do you do the things that you do in color media, which I'm so excited about? I love so many of the guests that are coming on this season. We have talent from Food Network from Vice media eater refinery 29,

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I'm Lisa held a food journalist and podcast host presenting behind the label with American Humane produced by Heritage radio network for Springer Mountain farms. This podcast series dives into what the American Humane Certified label really means. Subscribe wherever you listen to podcasts. This week on meat and three we're spotlighting the people who prepare our meat before it reaches our plates. We hear from whole animal butchers, the brains behind a meat vending machine, California cattle ranchers and a Master of charcuterie who isn't using meat at all.

It's like a smoked and grilled center stock for the broccoli. And then it gets finished with some mustard, barbecue sauce and sauerkraut

ranching and farming being as difficult as it is. You know it's just one thing after another and at some point you just give up I had

a wild idea that if I learned butchery maybe I could start to be kind of a link in the supply chain.

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Hello and welcome to cookie issues. This is Dave another host with cookies just coming to you live from the Lower East Side of Manhattan joined as usual with Anastasia the hammer Lopes in Stamford, Connecticut on the beautiful Long Island Sound How you doing stuff? Yeah, we got John, customer service extraordinaire for Booker and DAX coming to you from the Murray Hill there. How you doing? Not too bad. Thanks. got Matt and his Rhode Island booth. All good. There we go, man. Yeah. And joined by joined by today's special guests, which, with no further ado, I'll talk about why we're late in a second. But like, there is no good excuse, but I'll tell you what happened anyway. We have from kitchen arts and letters coming back on the show for his second appearance. Matt sartwell How're you doing?

I'm well, thank you. appreciate having you back.

Yeah, well, it's great to have you back. You know, like we had to have you back though for a specific reason. Now I'm going to tell you folks who I don't know if this is your first time tuning in or whatever. Kitchen Arts and Letters is the like, well put this way. It's the best cookbook store I've ever been in. I will say without any hesitation. It is at least the premier cookbook store in the United States. Right. I have been to a decent a good cook bookstore in Edinburgh. Really good. I will say kitchen Arts and Letters is a better cook bookstore. Now. I have not been everywhere on Earth. So I can't say that is the greatest cook bookstore on earth just because I haven't been everywhere on Earth. But you get my point. Kitson, arts and letters is the the store for cooks, people who like food, even if you're tangentially interested in food and the reason to go to kitchen arts and letters, and not somewhere else is because not only is it a store full of books, it is a store full of people who know about the books. And I know a lot of people know about books, but the way kitchen Arts and Letters knows about cookbooks, the way you know about your best friends, the way you know about like the family stories of your best friends. And that is the reason because a cookbook is so much more enjoyable. When you can hear the history behind it when you know about it. You're not just getting random opinions from people on the internet. It's it's just it's like a treasure that needs to be preserved. And it's in the It's On Lex in the in the 90s was between 91 to 9390 30/94 93 and 94. Right. So it's like if you're walking in between the two subway stations, you got to choose where you're going to get out of 86 or at 96. And then you got to figure out whether you're gonna walk because it's on that weird hilly area in Manhattan. Right, it's on that weird. You're in that weird hilly zone. It's like the only hilly place in Manhattan.

If you hate Hills get off at 86th Street.

All right here that folks if you hate hills, I don't hate hills. If you hate Hills get off an 86th Street

ever is typing stop typing or go on mute. So that you Dave, no,

I don't even have a computer stars. The reason I'm late is because I was plugging in my Yeti Blue Microphone, which in order to make it look professional, it's like the size of a small truck. And then I was spinning it around because you can't put you have to spin it around to plug in the USB. and I spun it around and it smacked my my brand new cup of espresso and shot my espresso against my like my my wife's white painted wall. Remember, she's the architect and that splashed into my what I thought was a good idea open frame computer, and zoop Zorch didn't like like my computer smells great, like espresso, but it no longer is a computer. So after the radio show, I have to go like, you know, hopefully it dries out and Stasi was like, Well, you don't use milk

is the real, the real killer. But you should you can't turn it upside down. Right, whatever you're talking about.

Now, now I'm gonna let it dry out. I mean, like, I honestly, it didn't fry the power. So whatever it did shorted something in the actual computer. So I'm gonna let it dry for an hour or two. And then I'm going to turn it on and pray. You know what I'm saying? Like, that's basically all I can do. But like I had all of my questions for today, like all of my notes, everything. And it was like literally like Okay, now it's time to plug in the microphone and get on to get on a zoom. And boom, gone anyway. So there was a coffee question that just came in in the chat. I can append deck.

All right. All right, what type of coffee how he made it and all that crap.

No, no, it wasn't about that. No, no, it was it is a short what is your take on our Oh versus water? softeners for coffee, but I'm wondering what either of them help you in your current situation?

Look, if you're going to use look, the point with coffee is is that you don't want your water like hyper hyper pure for coffee. Right? So I mean, it probably depends on exactly what kind of coffee you're going to make but just go get the books by route by the way, Matt and as have you on what are your thoughts on the on the route coffee books? Are those still the best?

I have to say I have struggled to get them so I'm not sure what availability is like,

because he Why is he private publishing those?

I believe so I have to go back and look it's been a while since I made that effort. You know, I rely a lot on notes that I bury and then have to go dig out for myself on on sourcing all these things.

Right. But I mean, by the way for best what I mean is like technical stuff for people who are brewing and making espresso as he used to but his is he's is that still considered like the target that everyone shoots for his work or no? Is there a new target that people

I don't think there's a newer better target? No, no. Okay.

Yeah, I mean look like like, like back in the in the late 90s, early 2000s. I would say David Schomer is the book to go to if you're interested in espresso, or you know illes the chemistry of quality which has a lot on water in it as well. But yeah, I think you know, what he's talking about is probably better but you want the right number of dissolved solids in your coffee. In fact, I forget which one of the which one of the Ely family I was dealing with the scientists the younger one He's rich, too. He dresses very fancy. I met him and he had his nice Italian suit on at the Mandarin Oriental in New York. This was maybe 12 1314 years ago. And I was like, I'm having trouble with my espresso. And he's like, the water here is not right for the perfect espresso. And that's because espresso because New York water is famously soft. So he was Pooh poohing the entire concept of making espresso with the water that I have at my disposal. And here in New York, we have some of the finest water you could get anywhere. Anyway. So like, my point is, is that I think aro if your water is garbage, then go aro and then put stuff back into it. Right? What do you think was a was that a decent answer? No, that sounds good. And he worked in the cookbook, too. So there you go. Now, you have some of those books are hard to get, especially ones that like geeks go for and that are kind of self published and are not distributed to normal channels can be a pain, right, Matt?

Yeah, I mean, the one of the problems is that when people self publish, they don't really think about anything other than what they're writing. And then the whole distribution channel thing is an afterthought until suddenly, they have 1000 books in their garage. And they wonder why they haven't sold them all yet. So yeah, I'd love to talk to people in advance. If you're thinking of self publishing something, reach out to me reach out to any local bookstore, and have that little talk about the best way to make that work. Because sometimes it's really way too arcane. And to obtain self published books, and I mean, we carry like 1000 of them here. It's not that we have a prejudice against them. But you've got to think about that kind of thing from the from the early days in order to make it work.

So here's, here's a question. And specifically, well, before we get into the questions, why don't we talk a little bit you have you have a GoFundMe going now let's talk about the state of selling cookbooks in the COVID, 2020 Internet times?

Well, I mean, the I think the precise technical definition is that it that it sucks for for most of this year, lockdown came in March, but people had been pulling their, their horns in earlier than that in terms of visiting the store, and so forth. So the year was off to a bad start. And then suddenly, we couldn't be open anymore. And you know, for three months, we had no foot traffic. And we did. I mean, I have to give this credit to the people who have been our longtime customers, we've had a lot of great support through our website, on our website, right now represents maybe 15% of what's in the bookstore. So there was no way that it sales could keep up with, with what we needed to do to cover rent and so forth. I mean, it's a story that's familiar to, to anybody whose business was affected by the lockdown. And I'm sure I don't have to tell you about that. Yeah. All right. For us, it just met we were burning through through the cash we had on hand, and you know, dancing around and negotiating with vendors and with landlords, I managed to keep paying my people. Because it was important to me to have them to rely on and, you know, once we were running, they were a terrific resource to have here in the store. But they just stay was no cash. And usually the fall is a huge season for us. We have all these big off site events, we do the New York City wine and food festival, we do the star chef chef Congress, we did do the New York Times food festival. And none of those things are happening this year. So there was no chance to to get ourselves out of a hole. And our leases due for renewal.

What are you at now? And how much what

sort of hammered us at the same time? Clearly, we're not the only ones in the country facing that. But, you know, I was standing here looking around thinking, you know, could we, you know, shut this down and try to start over in a year. And there was no way that we could reassemble what we had here, there was no way that we get sort of replaced the kind of Nexus we become if we if we stopped. And so I said, Help. You know, I put the word out. And I'm blown away. I'm humbled by the way that that people have stepped up, stepped up and backed us it's been incredibly gratifying and heartwarming. And now I feel like I can't die because I have to do this forever for the people who are going back this

way you do. In fact, you do now why don't you tell people how to get to your GoFundMe, and we'll do it again at the end.

It's gofundme.com you can just type in kitchen arts and letters on the search bar, or it's gofundme.com A slash save kitchen arts and letters. Now we are, as of about an hour ago, we were at about $89,000, we initially set a goal of 75. And we hit it in two and a half days, which meant I was crying, I raised it, because if we can put some extra stability under the store, if we can have a little more room to maneuver, because God knows what, you know, next year, and the year after that are gonna look like, then it's all for the better. I mean, one thing I know I'm going to do is pour money into improving and vastly upgrading the website, which was already the plan for this year, and, you know, boom, that became impossible. So we are out of the deepest pit, and we're now sort of scrambling at the sides of it.

Yeah. Now, how, like, I'm sure you think about this a lot. I mean, obviously, you don't actually know what it's like to go to your store as a customer. I mean, some of the people who work for you do I'm you know, that I know. But I mean, like to go as a customer, right? I mean, how can how can how can you somehow give some of that experience of what it's like to be able to go ask questions in the store, to people who can't visit the store? Like that's kind of this post COVID? are, you know, do you see this as is it possible that this becomes an opportunity, because what you guys have is so much more than a place where someone hands you money, and you hand them a book, you know?

Well, I mean, that's, I mean, that's a really fair question. I mean, it's one of the things that I'm trying to figure out for, for the website, because, you know, you come in here and ask us a question. And sometimes, you know, it'll be a really easy question, there's one obvious answer for it. But in other times, there isn't like a dead on approach to the, to the subject. But there are all these tangential books that that together can help you get there. And so you know, you can come in and, and suddenly, one of us is running all over the store, pulling books with fiber, different five or six different sections, and saying, oh, but look at this chapter and check out this. You know, and maybe we don't always even know exactly where to look for it first. But we know where to start to searching. And finding a way to do that on the web is is is the great challenge.

Great. Yeah. Yeah, yeah, I got one i 130. And, well, let me let me give you let me give you guys let me give the listeners who have never maybe been to the store an example, like this. So kitchen Arts and Letters, maybe this is a more succinct way of putting it, they are like research librarians of cooking, right. So you know, in the way that you could go to in the way that you could go to the slasher library at Radcliffe, and, you know, kind of go to their library and who knows a lot like kitchen Arts and Letters is like a reference, like reference librarians for cookbooks that where you can actually then buy the book and take it out and own it, right. And I remember when I was writing for food arts, this is probably like, oh, five or something. Oh, six. Jose Andres. Oh, six, somewhere around there. Oh, seven, Jose Andres, who recently opened Cafe Atlantico. In, in DC, and, and Daniel blued, was opening a restaurant in Vegas, and planches were the hot new thing. And Michael Badbury. You know, my mentor, who was the founder, one of the founders of food arts, was like you're gonna write about planches. There was no information on planches. Right? There was not a lot on websites about planches. So you go to kitchen arts and letters, and you're like, who's done Spain, right, who talks about planches. And then they run around the store, as Matt said, looking for like all possible references to that, or when I was tasked to write about charcuterie. And there wasn't a lot is like picking and play. And in fact, Matt was going to do as the classics in the field today. So we'll get to that in a minute cooking by hand which until like the technical stuff came out along with Django Erickson's book was like the place where you could like read at least a chapter by a great author on charcuterie. So, whenever I had something to research, when I was writing an article, I would go to them first and it's a lot better than you know, Wikipedia, in terms of like getting information because as I say, you know, a kitchen arts and letters they often they can't on everything, but they often have the backstory on how a particular book got written or why a particular book got written or you know, where the where the author was at that time, which is helpful for a researcher or an author, or even just someone who was interested, you know? I mean,

that's a that's a big part of the pleasure for us is, is sharing that background. You know, we we don't know everything about every book, obviously. But there are books here that we've, you know, we've known since they were an idea in somebody's head, and we've seen them get written and published and you know, and win awards and prizes. And we love talking to people about that.

Yeah. So anyway, why don't we like, John, should we do a? Should we do a question? Should we get oh, I have a question for you actually came in on Twitter. Matt. Let me see. You probably you can tell me whether you hate this kind of question or don't. This is from Pavlov of Laski wrote in what is the best cooking book of 2020. So far?

I hate questions like that. I hate almost any question that involves the word best. Because what's best for me may not be best customer for you, Dave or for somebody else. So our conversations, that experiences who were answering the question for. So it's just

Well, let me ask you this, what is an overlooked what is an overlooked cookbook in 2020, that people need to go Go search out?

Oh, now I'm on the spot. Some really fun and offbeat books that I was excited to see. There's a little book. And I'm gonna get the title wrong because I don't have it right in front of me. And it's it's long, but it's the proceedings of the first annual gathering of common logic. pomological explores people who find wild apple varieties, along roadsides and in the back of parking lots. Because when apples germinate from seed, each apple is genetically distinct. And so the trees that come up are nothing like their parents. And so these varieties that are found in the wild, can be something amazingly new and different from anything that they might be related to, when there are people who find them and share them and start cultivating them and bringing them to mark it. And they gathered together up in Massachusetts last year, and this little collection showcases it's about 66 I think out of 120 or so that were on display. So that would be high up on my list of of, of interesting things. Caught I can't even remember what year is what year for rolling up your sleeves and, and working. There was a book that came out early in the year called Carpathia on the food of Romania. This is a part of the world that gets like no respect from big mainstream publishing houses. This one came along and I think gives an interesting tour and then finally, a newly published book called parvana. On Afghan food. And again, I don't have the the book in front of me so I don't have the author's name to hand. Her last name is a UB ay UBI. She's an Australian whose family fled Afghanistan in the early 80s. And it is a gorgeously historical book. I mean, it's also beautifully photographed, but the Afghan culture in that book is is a revelation for I think, for anybody who didn't grew up in Afghanistan.

Alright, well, what's the name of that marijuana,

PA, R W A and A

and I'm also going to check out that Romanian book because my wife's business partner is like Romanian Romanian, like from Romania she chesco era like hardcore

tough, tough times there for a long time. But, but the food is really interesting. And it's this crossroads location with lots of different influences.

Cool, all right. Awesome. Now you do we want to do a normal question or do we want to go straight to classics in the field guys? What do you guys

feel because you haven't done it in a long time.

Alright, alright, now before we get into it, I have a question about a cookbook see this now this is what this is what I'm saying now people I have not pre determined this at all while I was doing research before I fried my computer this morning. A cookbook came through my my internet browser. And I have a question about it. And we have not I have not asked Matt whether he knows anything about it. So this is it is not a test because but I'm just gonna see. Are you familiar with the haka cookbook that came out like seven eight years ago?

Yeah, University of California Press. I think

Dang. See, see what I'm talking about people and here's why. I'm interested. So the people that make the sizzle which is our little handheld, you know, the thing it turns a torch, I gotta

talk about

Amazon, at some point, intimate, intimate, intimate. Like, this series all is manufactured by a haka family that the people who run the factory are haka, which is, like a very specific kind of group inside of China, right. It's its own thing, and they have their own cuisine. And whenever we go to China, or often want to go to China, will go to a haka will go to a haka restaurant will have haka food. So. So I was interested, is the cookbook any good? Like, is that is that A should read a, you know, what do you what do you think there? I heard it doesn't have a lot of illustrations, but I don't

know, I don't think it has any illustrations. If there are, there's some line drawings. I mean, I haven't opened one and maybe a year or so I think it's really strong. I mean, it's a really culturally interesting story about how this group of people has basically sort of been forced to migrate repeatedly within China, they've managed to maintain a distinct culinary and cultural identity. The food is a is a tremendous linking for us. It's related, but it doesn't seem like exactly like any other kinds of Chinese cuisine. I haven't cooked from it. That's true of most of the books in the store. But we have really good, strong feedback from our customers. And so I have a lot of faith in

si, si, to me, people like that is the kind of information how you're going to get that on the internet, you're going to listen to like, you're going to listen to like, like Joey No, nothing on their on their Amazon review. We'll get to that. We'll get to that later.

By the way, talk about it first, because that's our business. Just no, no,

I was gonna talk about Amazon reviews for books. What do you what do you want me to say about Amazon, the corporation?

What happened on Friday? Because I've gotten emails from people asking how that's going, how our relationship with Amazon is going because a lot of people follow us talking about it on the show.

Our relationship with Amazon. Is that look, I've said this before, I'll say it again, Amazon. Amazon is good at if you need to return something to Amazon like they're, they're great for that, right? Like as a customer like they're good as a vendor. It is a frigging nightmare is a frigging nightmare. So here's what happens. Amazon, right, Amazon is one of the larger importers of things because they do a lot of like direct importing, they import it. So this that's how the Sears all works people. So we have it manufactured in China, right? And then it gets picked up in China by Amazon, and then shipped on an Amazon contracted boat to the United States and then distributed to an Amazon warehouse. Amazon owns it as soon as it leaves as in China. The possession goes from Booker index to Amazon, right? Okay. Seems pretty clear. Right? Now, listen, question. When does Amazon check to make sure that we've given them the sizzles and he guesses and he guesses matter, Matt? guessed. How about in America? Oh, oh, that's interesting. Where in America?

Like, I didn't order the port, but are you telling me it's like at some sort of like, receiving place past the port bing bing, bing bing

bing. Now, we hand Amazon pallets. I hate to get too into the weeds. Here's how this works, right? It's every Sears all in a box, every Sears all box with a label. Here this is even funnier. over top of that label is another label with a different barcode. Because Amazon will have it no other way you need to have two barcodes, one with the item number that's the manufacturer barcode. And then you must have that and then you must put another label over it with a second barcode that completely obscures the first and if you can't do that, then they won't do business and it takes too long to explain to you why. But that's just the truth. So every one of those individual steers all boxes is in a box that contains nine by nine by contains 27 Sorry, names three by three by three cereals. It's 27 to a box. Right, right. Okay, so you got 27 Sears hauls in a box. That box has on it several barcodes and labels. There are how many how many of those on a pallet size it's it's I actually got the real three by three by five. It's it's 18. Right? Isn't it enough but anyways matter. So it's we'll say it's 18 of those on a pallet and it's wrapped and then that's what gets handed off. Now. There is no possible way because of the cube shapes everything is in for us. Like, send three less than we said, It just can't work. You know what I mean? It just, there's no way the factory wouldn't know how to send three or four less, right? Anyway. So we say to Amazon, Hey, okay, Listen, why don't you check, when we hand you the stuff to make sure we've handed you all this stuff. So you can agree in China, and China gets on your boat before he gets on your boat. Because what's happening is, is that someone not even at the port, but like at their warehouse is scanning the stuff in unit by unit. And saying that we're shorting them random numbers of units. It's usually a whole box of 27, but like random, right? And so we're like, we handed the bill of lading. And they're like, which doesn't work for us? And they're like, well, we don't look at the bill of lading. That's not we look at how many we have in the warehouse and like, but, but but but but but but you own them from the minute you took them in China, you put them on a boat for a month, they're saying

something's happening in the warehouse, and we're like, okay, but that's your

warehouse, your warehouse. I'm like, in the Stasi, and I were like, basically got

on a call with their representative from them. And then Dave, before the call says, Are we both going patchy? Or?

Yeah, so we both went patchy on a I like, I was like, listen,

oh, my God. And then Dave, say what Dave said he's gonna put cigarettes out and his kids.

I was like, No, listen, listen, here's what happened. Like, the guy that we're dealing with is like, Listen, this isn't my rules. I'm like, I'm like Amazon. I was like, first of all, I was like, in any basic drug deal, right? Your test the drugs. And if the person is safe in the suitcase, you open the suitcase, and the person says counted. And then if you don't count it, it's on you. It's on you. You keep counting when the deal happens, right? It's like, it's Amazon is doing this. They're going to a grocery store. They're buying a whole bunch of groceries, they're putting it into their into their Outback, and they're leaving the hatch open. And then they're driving over a dirt road for 55 miles. And then when they get there, they're like, have my groceries fell out. I'm not paying you. Who the hell does this. Your check when you do the deal? Yeah. Unbelievable. So then, so Amazon? Um, can I guarantee you that Amazon is making money hand over fist by doing this to people? And they're just like, well, it's the price of doing business. Like they're going to lose 26 boxes. And we can't force Amazon because they're the richest company in the world. We can't force them to count the stuff when they take it from us. So we'll just have to pretend that we lost it. We'll have to pretend it's us. We'll have to get gas lit by Amazon because what else are we going to do about it? Right? And so I was I said to our guys and and said as I was like, listen, I was like the what you're doing is literally making a difference in whether or not I get to send my kid to a school or not like this is like, I was like, this is the Stasi and I this is our whole business. I was like this isn't like he's like, but we only shorted you 13 grand on this one order. I'm like, you only shorted me 13 grand. The other way. He said that there is an order, okay, and not to get too into nuts and bolts. We have an order $140,000 They owe us and they come back and they're like, how about we give you 40 Were like, what, like, let's

make a deal. It's crazy. Yeah, yeah.

This reminds me of the time I was having a horrible surgery and I won't even I won't get into it. But I was in let's just say a compromised position and unfortunately not knocked out. So is the most invasive personal space invasion, like harsh Oh, Pierre Pasolini movie kind of thing you could possibly imagine. And while they were doing this procedure, to me, this is years ago, the doctor talked about nothing else. But how the insurance company was basically doing the same thing to him basically saying they're gonna pay him like 30 cents on the dollar for what he was owed. And I had all kinds of cameras and needles and all kinds of bad places every orifice. It was like it was like a horror porn for it was the worst. Anyway, that's what it's like it because they're like, how about we give you 40 And then like, the only 13 grand was shaft to you. I was like, dude, so I said to him, I was like, buddy, I was like, may you someday be rich enough. May we all be rich enough that we can you know basically Put out cigarettes in the eyes of our enemies, children and not worry about it not have any repercussions. And he was like, Yes. I was like, I was like, because that's what Amazon is doing. Amazon's putting Yeah. But is that now what Amazon is doing to us? Yes. Yes. They're walking up early Booker. You need special education here. Cigarette boom in the eye. That's what they're doing. Now you also need eye surgery. Hope you have money. I'm gonna be showing you 13 Brandy. Yeah, anyway, So that's what we're doing with the Amazon right now. Enjoy. So, back to classics in the field, Matt, sorry about that slight digression. Yeah, well yeah.

Amazon horror stories

yeah

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So what do you what do you got for classics, let's go to something a little more fun,

a lot happier note, I would like to talk about a book called vegetables from MRM is a tea by Elizabeth Schneider. This is a giant, almost 800 page reference that came out in 2001. And it covers very broadly speaking about 113 different vegetables. Which is even more impressive when you consider that she doesn't really talk about things like potatoes and tomatoes, which are there are so many varieties of those that if you once you start talking about them and become entire books on their own. And this is a big sprawling reference book. It is written from the point of view of somebody who's or for the point of view of somebody who's making a living in some way off off these items. It talks about how to find them, what kind of growers to look for what a good one is like how it became cultivated and grown in the United States. It talks about everything from the qualities of the flesh and how it's typically cooked, to how well it keeps. And it covers, you know familiar things like broccoli and turnips, but also banana buds and something called horseradish tree. And something else it's known as New Zealand spinach or Tetra gonia. And the woman who wrote it, Elizabeth Schneider, had years before co authored a book called uncommon fruits and vegetables. And this was an outgrowth of that and even more in depth approach. It is full of information. There are recipes that she developed, there are notes on how chefs all over the country prepare these things. And I think for anybody who's, who's making a living in food, it's pretty goddamn useful.

Tell me ask you a question. Sure. Let's compare this with the uncommon vegetables for those of you that have for those that have one or like maybe, is the other one still? Is it worth getting both? Or are like are they different enough or

they are pretty different? I mean, uncommon fruits and vegetables came out. Middle 80s. So a lot of the things that are in that book had become a lot more common, and they aren't so surprising. And of course, it's also got fruits, which are not really a component of vegetables from amaranth, zucchini, vegetables from amaranth. Zucchini is also attempting to be more comprehensive. You can find familiar things in there. But it's also got those oddball things. Elizabeth Schneider made her living for a long time consulting with growers about what it was that chefs and restaurants were going to be interested in using. In the coming years farmers would come to her and say, Hey, what should we be planning what are people are talking about that they might want to be using more of? So she As she was uniquely plugged into a mixed of users and providers that almost nobody else at the time could replicate. She's pretty much retired now and not not writing. But at the time that this came out, it was, it was really essential. And I don't think anything has come close to replicating its importance.

We're not in speaking of like, at the time. So this book came out in 2001. Right? Yes, yeah. So I think a lot of one thing that I hate to see, especially with younger readers, right, is this. They can't, they can't properly judge a book for when it was written, and get the timeless nature of what was written, and also an understanding of what was commonly known when something was written. And therefore they can't get the full enjoyment out of a book that was written 19 years ago, just because they can't get the right mindset. Do you see that happening a lot? Or, you know, do you have anything to kind of say about that?

I think we do sometimes encounter that. I also think that, at least here in a conversation with people, we can usually make the case very strongly about why we might think an older book is still the more recent thing, I mean, this book established itself as a, as a pretty irreplaceable reference. And I, you know, the fundamental nature of, of bitter melon or, or ramps hasn't changed in 20 years. There are, you know, for some cultivated, widely cultivated vegetables, there are new varieties on the market. But the basics aren't going to change and a book like this, which represents the work of essentially a lifetime. I mean, there aren't that many people who are going to blow their lifetime on looking up and upsetting vegetables for you. Somebody

just said she ruined her life. You just said she blew her life. You know, I fair?

I think that authors sometimes do that for themselves. They pour themselves into a project. I mean, she's brilliant, smart, beautiful woman. But yeah, this was the sort of, she finished this. And she sort of gasped and sat down and, and has rested sense.

Now, so let me, this is why I hate Amazon reviews. So here's a one star review on that book, saying, My expectation for this book was to provide the basics on each vegetable, especially in relation to cooking with some more expanded or extensive info added. But for many vegetables, this was not included. All right, one star, that's one star, I thought it was going to be the basics of vegetables, but it wasn't one star jerks. Why can't these people just why can't that kind of person who writes that review? Just instead, stop sucking wind stopped being a waste of space? You know what I mean?

I I don't think Amazon is the only place where that happens. Yeah, I have seen some pretty astonishing reviews on Amazon for books that I think are are extraordinarily fun. It tells you a lot about as much about the reviewer as it does about the book.

Yeah. The other issue, like I say about kind of what I was getting out with the kind of newness, wanting new stuff is like, let's say someone had written a book on rum 10 years ago, right? They could have spent their entire life on on rum. And it still wouldn't really have a section on clearance. Right? You know, from Haiti, like the cane stuff from Haiti. So then like someone who's just getting into it and getting all the information like, well, it can't be good, because it doesn't even include clearance. You know what I mean? Like that kind of attitude? I think people need to mentally, mentally kind of erase. Do you know what I mean? Because it's just, I think it's unhelpful. And I worry about this, when I'm writing to like, How can I write I know that some of the information that I'm giving now is going to be dated, I know that people are going to do a lot of work, and that things will be superseded, and other things, but like, a great writer, and I haven't read this, yet, I remember I was going to get a copy of this book, and I never did. But like a great writer, you read them, even though you might have some new information, or there might be more things available now that were available in 2000. Because there clearly is you know what I mean, but I think your life's going to be much richer, if you can, if you can, kind of because that the spirit of the writer doesn't really age. Do you know what I mean? Does that make sense?

It does. And I think the other thing that people sometimes have gotten out of the habit of doing is is because we're so used to going online and like entering a phrase and getting a quick answer to a question is is doing a critical reading that sort of says, You know what? What is this source? Where is it coming from? When did it occur? What are its limits going to be? What is it going to tell me that people have stopped paying attention to because often that is just as interesting as what is, is really sort of suddenly coming into the spotlight. And so you the certain, well, I can go on about this for a long time, perfection is an illusion. It's a lie. And if you search for it, and expect that you will always be disappointed. So what you do is you find something that's great, even if it's not perfect, and you celebrate what's great about it, and you don't get stuck on thinking that one place is all the answers. And you're happy with that ambiguity.

Alright, so that book was vegetables from amaranth, to zucchini, the essential reference anyway, 500 recipes and you can you have copies of that available kitchen arts and letters

we do. Absolutely. It is a big sprawling book and we love to talk about it.

What does that what does that was that gonna go for?

It is $70 It is like I said the work of a lifetime and on the price shows you

also have you know, I just looked it up same price on Amazon. So why would you ever buy it there? Why would you do that? Anyway, that's

a fair question.

Yeah. All right. Now you wanted to you were going to do some patients gray as well. Right?

Yeah. So on a completely different direction. Honey from a weed by patients gray is a book that came out in in 1986. It's a really interesting story. Patient's Gray had been a successful author of sort of a big mainstream cookbook in in Britain. And this is sort of like, you know, the Pioneer Woman throws up her former life and goes off to live on a mountainside. She fell in love with a sculptor. And she spent many years traveling around the Mediterranean with him to places where he could find the stone that he wanted to work with. So if they were in Tuscany, there were in Catalonia. They were on Naxos, which is one of the Greek islands. And they ended up settling in a pool. Yeah. And she writes about the food that she learned to cook in all these places. And not you know, from famous restaurants and notable chefs but but from the neighbors because most of the time, they were living in unheated huts in Nanaimo, sort of on the edge of a quarry, and the closest people were subsistence farmers. And they learned to cook very seasonally, they learned to cook with sort of a minimum of ingredients that didn't come from within 10 miles. And she says very early on good cooking is the result of a balance struck between frugality and liberality. So, you know, using your ingredients, as carefully as you can, but when they're, you know, when something comes on and instant season, you go wild with it, and you do all that you can. It's a book with an astonishing personality. She had a sort of sense of mysticism that wouldn't really fit necessarily with, say, the people that Modernist Cuisine. It would be fascinating to see Nathan Myhrvold and patients great talking to each other, but it's, it's a book with really powerful sentences and places. And a an amazing versatility with almost nothing to hand.

And this is also the ad she's writing this in the 80s.

This came out in 86. It's still in print after after all these years. It's it became sort of a legend people would make pilgrimages to see her. She spent like the last 25 years of her life and in Apulia literally in a in a in a home without heat. You ever meet her? I did not she did not leave a pool yet. I think in the last 25 years of her life, and I I never made it there. I knew people who'd met her people like Alan Davidson, and bear who had who had traveled there and met her

but I never well, Alan, Alan Davidson was the one of the reasons she started doing cookbooks, right or publishing them anyway, she was writing But wasn't he, by the way, and speaking classics in the field. I don't know if we ever did his stuff, but his seafood series he's an excellent was an ex diplomat. And then also like an amateur, whatever you call a fish person, X theologist, or whatever it was, and then started writing all of these books on seafood, which are also classics in the field. Correct.

Exactly. That is his first one was a book on the fish and fish dishes of Laos, which he started writing when he was the British Ambassador to Laos. And it's an all time classic, right? It is and I mean, there's I mean, there's nothing else in it. We shouldn't even comes close to touching that. But he expanded that into a book on the secret of Southeast Asia there was one on Mediterranean seafood and one on secret of the North Atlantic. And they have all flickered in and out of print. But any of them is is worth picking up if you have any interest at all in in, you know, really careful, precise sequence, no photographs, if you have to have pictures. You are Sol, but the written content is astonishing. And the drawings are really helpful.

So what was the connection there between patients gray and Davidson, he was just to publish he was he had started,

he had started a publishing company called prospect books, which was an offshoot of a magazine that he had founded with Elizabeth David called pity proposal and air PPC, and prospect Burke's was published or was founded to publish the completed scholarship that PPC was publishing excerpts of, and they were gathering together interesting people. They had a friend in common, a man named Irving Davis who was living in Catalonia at that point. Patient screening writes a lot about HIV and honey from a weed. He was sort of a black sheep libertine, iconic classic. British expat who had I think had to flee. Britain couldn't go back for reasons I was never quite clear on. And, but he made a lot of friends in in Catalonia, entertaining people who came through and being passionate about the local Catalonia food. So he met gray while she was living there, and he connected her to Davidson.

Yeah, cool. You know, I have a galley of honey from the weed that I got the strand in the 90s Whoa, yeah, I've never seen one of those. Well, so here's the thing. I went to go look for it. And I must have it in storage. I gotta go. I gotta go find it. It's a it's like a light green, you'll have galleys are in that horrible, like a dog tag? Like cardstock? Yeah. Yeah, with like a line drawing on it. If I find it, I'll give it to you. So you can see the difference if when I find it. In fact, that was one of the ones I know, it didn't get pitched in one of my many recent movies, because the way this whole classics in the field started to remind those who have no idea is I have a lot of books that one might consider to be unusual or random. And when we're going through which ones we're going to do a session because we don't have any space because we live in New York. My wife would be like, what about this one? This looks useless. I'm like, that is the classic in the field. And that's how it started.

We have a lot of conversations like that here.

Yeah, yeah. So anyway, classics in the field. See if I find it, I'll just send it to you. So you can see what the Yeah,

even just the photograph, I'd be fascinated to see how they did that I've even realized prospect was doing galleys back in the day.

And furthermore, I bought it just based on the title, I had no idea who she was. And I don't know, for those of you that never been to the strand, this is before the strand had air conditioning, and you would go in the basement, which is a hellhole. And they'd have this section that was called those galleys, and some would be galleys and some wood. So there's different kinds of, like, there's, there's proofs, and galleys, like some are paper bound, some look like the finished book, but aren't. And so like, and they were all $1 No matter what it was, and 99% of what they had down there was stuff that had just just come out. So what happens is, is that the publishing house sends out a bunch of these things to people so that we can review them, and then they offload them on the strand strand sells them for dollar anyway. So to find one that was at the time, probably 12 years old was quite rare. So that's one reason I picked it up. And but her writing is just great. You know what I mean?

It's it's vivid and, and crisp. And she I mean, she doesn't give you recipes, like, you know, like you would find in in a standard modern cookbook. They're they're, like, one of our neighbors probably explained the whole thing.

Yeah, but she's a she's a very evocative writer, like makes you like, makes you want to go on a journey with her and the way that like, I think MFK Fisher does, although Do people still like MFK Fisher or no, people still love her? No.

I think they do. I mean, I think it's, it's easy to overdose on MFK Fisher. My suggestion is read a little bit at a time and come back. When you're ready. Don't Don't binge read or your you lose your taste.

Yeah. All right. Nice, like muscles. Young Gibbons, you'll Givens. Now, John, you'll disagree with me, by the way the sculptor she was married to his Belgian John he might be happy to know. And and I know a Belgian never loses his taste or her tastes for muscles, but you will Gibbons. One of my favorite foraging writers ever says muscles are great, but if you're living on a coastline and all you got is muscles, you will tire of them very, very quickly. So MFK Fisher is the great. The muscle like great writer, I guess is what you're saying, man?

Yeah, yeah. You can dip in and out read a chapter. She's she's meant to be read by chapters do it that way. I think

the thorns are also like that. Matt and the other one and

John. Yeah, yeah. Well, I mean, John is he's a newsletter writer. He writes in those kinds of those kinds of doses. And, yeah, I think there, there are a lot of people who were really best read that way. And you you pick one, pick a book up and you read a chapter and enjoy it and you come back to within a couple of weeks or a month or whatever, and, and it feels fresh and appealing again, but if you you know, it's like, I like whipped cream. If I you fed me five bowls of whipped cream, I probably wouldn't like it.

Now I'm not with you there. I can eat a non finite amount of whipped cream. I mean, whipped cream is my favorite foam. I like I love it a lot. So the thorns What's that? What's that the best known compilation that was called like pig in a poke or something like that. What's what's simple cooking,

and it was the name of of John's newsletter that he wrote for many years, starting, I believe when he lived in in the East Village. And there were four other books. They're radically available at this point. But simple cooking is the is the one that sort of represents what made him what brought him to people's attention.

What's the one with a pig on the cover? soft cover kind of serious pig? Serious was that? Okay? That's like the third book, I believe, is that the one was main being whole cooking in it where he describes how to do being whole cooking?

I would have to look on that. Yeah.

I've been many years been many, many years. All right. So and you have one last one that you wanted to do with Madeline Come on, right. And I wanted to also ask you about about her, why don't you talk about that one.

So this is a book called when French women cook. It's a book that first appeared in 1976. And it's a memoir with recipes that also is sort of a sneaky French regional cookbook. She's She was born in Paris, before the Second World War. Because of the war, her family moved around a lot during and after the war. And she continued to move around until she left Paris or France and I think about 1960. And each chapter is about a different woman in a different part of France. And she's giving you I think, an amazing sense about the character of, of French cooking, and in many forms. Some of these are are essentially domestic servants who were employed by her family. One of them was a great aunt who actually had a Michelin starred restaurant. And she's she's really paying tribute to this woman and providing a sense about what French food was. 40s 50s 60s Well, 40s and 50s. Really, I guess she left in 1960. And she really does give you a sense about how how varied the cuisine it is. It's one of the losses in current American food publishing that if you want a French regional book, you have like, a ton of choices for Provence. A lot of choices for the Southwest and pretty much the rest of the country is forgotten. I don't know if it has to do with you know, where people go on vacation or whatever it is, but if you want to book on the food of Normandy or the food of our sauce, you're you're gonna have to go out and and find something that was written a long time ago. But this book is is is currently available. I think it's quite lovely. Madeline was she's still living but she's not doing anything food related at this point. But highly revered as a cooking teacher, she she ran several successful restaurants. She has been vilified in certain recent publications for not fully appreciating, shall I say, Julia Child and there was definitely some conflict there. But you know, oh, Over the years I met her numerous times. She was insatiably powerfully curious, she was restless and never satisfied with anything. And I think that always shows up in her books.

I think we talked about her a little bit the last time you were on, but what what why did she? Why did she redo her master work towards the end of her active career and like so horribly mangle it?

I don't know that. I would say that she horribly mangled it. I think she got in. She fell down the rabbit hole. When she started to do some revisions and updating based on things that she had learned. What makes you feel a bit sick horribly mangled that she

she she bought into law what was at the time. So what was this 1516 years ago when it came on? I can't remember.

Maybe longer than that. I would say mid 90s. So yeah,

so she bought into like mid 90s, like health garbage. And so then like, redid like D buttered and like redid everything with what was oh, Corolla at the time health knowledge. And I would rather just have her actual knowledge, you know what I mean? Like, or like her actual, like the spirit of what she was doing? I don't know, I was just, I was disappointed by what appeared to me to be like a pasting on of the new on to what was otherwise a masterwork. That's all.

I take your point there that yeah, I sort of tend to, to just sort of let my eyes slip past some of that material. I think it was typical of a time. How much of that was was her and how much was her publisher? I can't be sure. I mean, you know, published publishing is this incredibly trend driven business, and you can see it in. In food photography is as well as in subject matter. And, you know, it probably seemed at that very moment that the book was being written, like absolutely essential to the way people understood food. And it turned out to be

wrong. Like another another one, I think that does not in the same way. But I mean, feel free to not want to comment on this. But you know, to me, one of the all time Classics is Peterson's sauce, sauces, or whatever it's called. And I say go with the first edition, go with the first edition, straight up, you know what I mean? Like, like full cream reduction, like that view into what was going on in the 90s, when that was written? is like not to be matched in like the new one. He added? I'm not gonna say he mangled his old work. But I mean, I just feel the first edition. The second edition doesn't top the first. Do you have any thoughts on that?

Well, I mean, I think there were actually on addition, for at this point, I believe

there was the one where they added all the modern techniques and stuff and like, drastically expanded and took out a lot of the 90 style, like double cream reduction sauces. Yeah.

Well, I mean, partly, that's going to be driven by what culinary schools may have been demanding. Maybe not sort of the higher end schools, but some of the like the junior colleges and so forth, scattered around the country, which can actually turn out to be a big market for books like that. I don't know, I'd have to talk to Jim about that, in particular,

a good book, and don't get me wrong, but it sounds like that the first one that I had the black cover, that one is like, was a revolute. When I read it, I was like, Oh, my God, I love this book. You know what I mean?

Well, I think that goes back also to, to what you were saying about being aware of when a book comes along. And you know, it may definitely represent sauces that are not commonly used anymore. But as a as a piece of reference as an access to technique into a world in which people did things a certain way it's unparalleled. And having the knowledge of that allows you to go off into other things that may or may not have been happening when the book was first published. But you've got the tools to, to build new things. So that's why I would say don't don't dismiss a book just because it's old.

So listen, we we're out of time, right stuff. Oh, yeah. Yeah. So how about this? We'll answer any questions that we didn't do this week. We'll do we'll do next week. If any of you have any pressing questions, then you know, maybe I'll try to answer them over Twitter and send them in or whatnot. Otherwise, when is when is the GoFundMe over you want to get kitchen Arts and Letters, by the way is the store we're talking about. We've had Matt sartwell on doing his classics in the field, giving you know some of his rich knowledge And you could do this all day. And literally, if we could still have Collins, you guys could call in and pepper him with questions left, right. And you know, pretty much he knocked them out of the park every time. So, oh, please go to the GoFundMe. And you know, add more, even if they've made their goal, like help them help them not. So earlier in the show, Matt said that they had dug out of the deepest pit and now they're just in some sort of basements. So they just need to be able to do chin ups out of the basement, but let's get them like, up on the ground floor and then maybe even like a little bit of a portrait deck to stand on. Alright, so I love a deck. Yeah, yeah, deck, we're not asking for it. We're not asking for skyscrapers, people's a deck, a deck.

So yeah. A deck and a little sunshine.

There you go. So, you know, also, like, you know, let's have you back on maybe after the GoFundMe is over, you know, some more classics. And then, you know, if we ever get back to normal again, such that people can call in and ask you questions, because really, like, that's the, that's how people are going to experience what it's like. Well, I remember I tossed you the random haka question earlier, like, that's where it's like dealing with them. So let's preserve kitchen arts and letters for a long, long time. Thanks for coming on that as usual.

Thank you for having me back.

I really appreciate it. All right. This has been cooking issues. Cooking issues, it's powered by simple cast. Thanks for listening to heritage Radio Network food radio supported by you for our freshest content, subscribe to our newsletter. Enter your email at the bottom of our website heritage Radio network.org. Connect with us on Instagram and Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can also find us at facebook.com/heritage Radio Network. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization driving conversations to make the world a better, fairer, more delicious place. And we couldn't do it without support from listeners like you want to be a part of the food world's most innovative community. Subscribe to the shows you like tell your friends and please join the HRM family by becoming a member. Just click on the beating heart at the top right of our homepage. Thanks for listening