Cooking Issues Transcript

Remembering Maria Guarnaschelli


Hello, everybody, and welcome to a brand new series on heritage radio network called the culinary call sheet where we give a peek into the back kitchen of culinary media. I'm your host, April Jones,

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Absolutely what was once niche or a little silly, as I'm sure you remember, Darren, when we started out, this man has now become such a massive playing field for so many creatives using food as the medium.

It's something that has driven us professionally and personally, for so many years. What excites me the most about this show is that we're going to sit down with some of the industry leaders to hear how they made it and what drew them into this industry.

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This week on mountain three, we head into the second part of our mini series on global trade, where we talk about all things sweet from chocolate and sugarcane to the cultural festival that accompanied the growth of the date industry in the

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Hello, and welcome to cookies. Cookies coming to you live on the heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from roughly noon to like roughly one or so. I am as usual in the Lower East Side of Manhattan. Anastasia is in transit between California and New York. We have John in worry now you're in Connecticut now and Matt in Rhode Island just let you know where we are. But today is Oh, today is a different from normal. We're not going to do our normal. We're not gonna do our normal thing. Today is a tribute to Maria Gorna. Shelly, where are you going to Shelly was my, my editor. She's the reason that I wrote a book she forced me to write to write a book, she passed away this this last weekend. She was one of those people in the food world that if you weren't in the food world, especially food publishing world, you might not have known who she was, but she had an incredible outsized influence on on book publishing, in general and cookbook publishing in particular. And we have we have with us today, like some of the amazing people that she you know, helped, you know, help bring their authorship out into the world. And also her the other important thing she bought into the world I just saw came on is Alex Cornish Shelley, her daughter, famous chef, Telugu television personality Aleksei as a good to Good to see you. I hope. You know sorry for your loss.

Thank you. I mean, this is what my mother would like. People talking No better.

Well, so like I think we're going to keep it relatively freeform. So I'm going to say, later on in the show, we're going to have Rick Bayless coming on who's one of her longtime authors, long, longtime authors. But right now, we have also on the line with us. We have Harold McGee. We interesting Hello, Harold. There he's here. He's here somewhere. Yeah, he's

dropped briefly. He's coming back in.

So Maria actually signed him up for sign up the right before she moved publishing houses. She signed up for the second edition of on food and cooking. So if you enjoy the second edition of on food and cooking, you have Maria to thank for that. We also have Kenji Lopez all on the phone. Uh, how you doing? kanji?

I'm doing good. How are you?

I'm doing all right. So if you've read a cookbook in the past five years or so, you know, kanji is and Maria was also the person who stewarded his you know, book FoodLab. into into existence. So, you know, Harold will be back on in a second he'll dial back in or something, John, if you can help navigate and Harold back on to the conversation. That'd be, that'd be great. So, you know, I'll just I'll start by saying this. And you know, Alex, you might have something to say and Kenji as well. First of all, Nastasia you should chime in a lot here too, because she loved Anastasia likes, loves we love Anastasia. So for, you know, for those of you that never met Maria, like Maria had, let's just say a reputation. Would you say that's fair, guys?

Yeah, describe or Dave or Alex, describe your mom.

I mean, you know, I would go to parties in my 20s. When I first started cooking, I would go to like chefs, parties and stuff. And people would say, you know, I'm Jenny, nice to meet you. And I'd say I'm Alex corner selling and half the time people would bristle and say, Oh, I know your mother. And did the six times out of that. They would say she declined my book. So I started stop saying my last name at parties. Does that describe my mother in a roundabout fashion?

Yeah, I mean, I'm like, you know, I'm gonna say this. With all due respect. She was scary, right? She was the only person

she's the only person that ever scared Dave Arnold. And we've worked together for 13 Or who knows how many years? I've never seen him scared of anyone but her

the life out of me. She did she scared and you know what? And the thing is, is that, like, I know that she and I've seen her be incredibly harsh to people, right? But like, yeah, she was never harsh to me ever, ever. No. But she scared the daylights out of me. Like something about it is like, because I think like what was kind of best about, like, one of the professionally best things about her was that she was just such a judgment machine. She was always judging whether something was good or bad, or like whether it was and so like, you were always petrified because she was so fine tuned to everything that you were petrified that you were going to, like say something be like, Oh my god, I was wrong this whole time. You're an idiot. Get out. You know? She was Yeah, honestly. Like, so like, whenever I was with her, I was just completely nervous all the time. Right. It was it was a kind of a weird dynamic.

Meanwhile, she would say oh, that Dave. He saw what I saw and that Anastasia what a doll she is. But Dave didn't do his homework. And here we are waiting for Dave and I know he's brilliant, but I just don't know. And then she'd say but Kenji. On the other hand, Kenji has done all his homework, and is brilliant. So she thought you both were brilliant, more like a teacher and the ones that sat at the front of the class and turned in their homework. Those were the, you know, those were the people on the on the on the nice list, the Christmas card was,

you know, what I would say about her is that she was she was also just sort of, you know, fiercely loyal. Yes. And if you were, if you had done your homework, and you were on her good side that day, she she was your biggest advocate and your biggest supporter, and, you know, when she was editing my book, I had never felt supported in the way that I did with her not from not from any other teacher or any other boss. You know, with the exception maybe of Ed Levine, who's, who's also fiercely loyal, but you know, what it was, whether it was in her office or you know, or the frequent Three to four hour lunches we had, which, you know, were were scheduled for an hour and would go on for the entire afternoon. She you know, she was the same in or out of the office and you could always tell when someone was coming like when someone came into her office, they came in with that kinda deer in headlights look, or when a server came to our table or when the chef came out to talk to her it was she She definitely had a reputation. And it was one that you didn't even have to know her to get to see it. And you know, she she, she she wore her emotions on your sleeve. And you could tell the first time you met her, you could tell that whatever she was going to say to you right now is going to be something honest. She didn't she never beat around the bush about anything. And, and I you know, I admired that because I, you know, I'm the kind of person who needs someone to tell me when you know, something I did sucks or, or when something I did is good. Because yeah, I mean, I think that's how that's how you that's how you know she, she wasn't accepting of anything other than perfection. And I actually really admire her about that.

Yeah, what restaurant did she take you to? Candy was Did she always use one and take you she always? Lino?

Yeah, it was most frequently Wow, actually. Yeah. Yeah, she loved that place. And I, and every single time we went, there wasn't a single time when we didn't sit and then have to be moved to a different table.

somewhere else?

Yes. Oh, my God, Kenji. I can't believe you've managed to, I was wondering what little sort of nuances would come out, I kid you not when I say my mother and father and I would go out and she'd say, I want to sit over there. I don't like our table. And we would move one time, we moved three times until my mother felt that the light was hitting our table in the right way. And also, people say to me, you know, like, how did you become a chop? Judge? And how did you become a judge on TV? And, um, you know, I say, Well, I was in training for it my whole life by accident. My mother collected Gourmet magazine, every, every single issue and put them in bound, you know, in binders. So my mother has every issue of Gourmet magazine from like, 1960, whatever, until 1990, or whatever it was. And she would make a pie. And she would say, is this as good as the 1974? October one? Or do we like this? As much as the 1981? November one and why? And that was sort of what we, and then you had to have an answer. You had to, you know, and I was like, Jesus, I don't know, I'm stressed out. This is pie. It's just a pumpkin pie. And my father would say, Well, I you know, the crust is, my mother would say, you know, the feeling is just so I think when she started in on cookbooks, I knew it was really something when she would take the whole manuscript and just cook it. Wow. And she would, and we did the same thing. And so every author was on trial at my childhood home, you know, for, you know, like, oh, there's so and so, you know, none of his recipes work. And that's how I came to know people for life. You know, oh, he's late on his manuscript. I can't say hello to him.

She always said hello to me, and I was always late. Yeah. You ever notice how Alex, if you didn't have a set? What she considered a satisfactory answer? She wouldn't say anything. She just keep staring at you until you had a satisfactory answer.

Oh, yeah. By the way, I might describe all of you as an irreverent band of marauders in your own right. So I just want to say, it's not like my mother picked the straight and narrow types to deal with. I think she, she, she knew I mean, the two of you in particular. She knew about you before she worked with you. And she talked about you. And I used to say to her, I mean, Kenji, really, my mother before I could say anything to her about kanji. She was already talking to me. But you Dave, honestly, I said to her, you know, Dave Arnold, this guy. You know, he's so he's such a nerd in the most glorious way. He loves to know the why the mechanics why things work, why they don't he likes a clear answer. He will diligently work until he finds one. You know, I said to my mother, he's so up your alley, just the way he does his work. And his, what's the word I'm looking for? I guess, like, really integrity, at all cost? And that's what she found. And look at your books. I mean, look at how great the books are. It's not just because of my mom, but don't you think my mom just kind of like, gives great flowers like the right water and sunlight?

I can tell you I mean, you know my book I mean, I wouldn't, I would definitely not have the career I have today. If it wasn't for your mom, you know what, when I went when your mom called me, I had already talked to a dozen other publishers, including including my former employers at Cook's Illustrated who, you know, who also do science and stuff. And virtually all of them had had, you know, told me that they wanted a shorter book, or they wanted it to be, you know, they, you know, we a very different book, from what from what, what it ended up being with your mother. And I remember when your mother called me, I was I was living in a in a one bedroom apartment in Brooklyn, with no windows, I went out onto onto the balcony to take the call in my in my underwear in the winter. Because because, you know, because I was inside and my wife was working inside and, and your mother the reason I mean, the reason I went with Norton is because is because your mother knew what she was talking about, is you because your mother clearly had read some of my work. And I knew, like, you know, I want someone who sort of understands what it is I'm trying to do. And she did. And I got that in our in our first 20 minute phone call. I got that she got that. And then, to her credit, you know, when I was writing my book, and originally it was supposed to be five or 600 pages, and I you know, I turned in 800 She was like, This is good. Can you give me? Can you give me 600 more pages? I'm like, sure. All right. You know, and so, without her it would have been a very different book, my career would have been very different. And, you know, I never felt more supported than when I was then when I was working with her. And you know, and be even be even before I met her, of course, I would not have been able to do what I what I do now, had it not been for, you know, for Harold's book, and for the new edition of Joy of Cooking and you know, all the all these works that sort of paved the way for and, you know, Einstein to what Einstein told us cook I think that was firstly, well. You know, all these books that on science, food science and technique that were sort of aimed at home cooks things that you know, that that my my work is very much based on. Without your mother, I can very safely say that, that I would not be doing what I do right now. Which you know, so I owe her a ton beyond beyond just my immediate working with her as my editor.

She also did blockbuster books that weren't in that vein. You know, like she did, she was fuchsite Dunlops. American editor. Oh, yeah. Rogers. Lindy cafe. Yeah, the Zuni Cafe cookbook, huge, huge book

that that manuscript sat around the apartment for years, I that Zuni Cafe book, and the first manuscript was in the bathroom, like think about like, the what I bring to the table is like, that was the toilet reading in my bathroom was the Zuni Cafe manuscript. And so of course, I was reading it, you know? And my mother said, What do you think? And I said, I just don't see it, you know, and I generally was okay. But I was like, I don't see this. And, and she said, Just wait. And I remember that. And then the book, then other versions of it started appearing. And I was reading and reading and I said, you really teasing out a story here that I didn't see initially? And she said, yeah, she said, we're getting there. And then she just brought home the book. And she was so nervous, because I think, you know, she really worked. Let me tell you, there was some books you worked harder on, even harder on than others. And that was a book, we ate a lot. We ate most of that cookbook, my father and I, but she was just really wanted the story to come out. And it just did, I guess, in a very lasting way. Sometimes I say to, you know, chefs, you know, how do we hit the refresh button, and I say, sometimes, you've got to go back to an old book to refresh. I said, just go read the Zuni a little bit gozone out on the Emma 20 page, bread, you know, salad recipes, like five ingredients and it's like a 20 page recipe, you know, the the irreverence and indulgence of thinking there was that much to say and going with that. You know, my mother didn't seem to reference anybody around her there was my mother was not one for social comparison. If you know what I mean. She would wear a Ferragamo scarf with a product purse and New Balance sneakers and a lens and T shirt. She just had no she didn't care how you combine things she just wanted what was good. And my mother was

wear comfortable shoes. Also I remember that.

Yeah, I mean, it wasn't good. That's just it. My mother. My mother just called me from the hospital, and not a week ago, and she said her I'm looking at mark for Jones restaurant. Is he good? And I just said how do I sum up someone like whether they're good or not, but that's how my mother Oh, he's good or she's good or that croissant I took a bus train and a boat to was worth going for. That's the other thing about my mother would go to Guadeloupe to taste one good olive. You know, it didn't matter what she had to do. And I think you were all like, her favorite olives.

That's it. She remember? She would how much she hated people whose recipes didn't work? Oh.

Yeah. I mean, people out there the stories if I could tell you half she was also could be, let's say, real rough on people that she had done. And if I could tell you guys the stories, oh, my God, oh, my god, the things she would say. were amazing. Amazing. You know,

you didn't do your homework, man. You were out of the circle of trust. And here's why it was so strange is that I was always sort of surprised anybody wanted her approval? You know, because it was so hard to get. But I think what was it you think? I think she, I think she, I think she knew how to translate what you wanted to say, or help you find your voice and sort of connect the dots. Or, you know, I always feel like my mom would, you know, if it were a book or a closet, you know, she would show up with the antique closet and the clothes and the rack and the hangers and just say you start by hanging them on and I'm gonna rehang them. And we're gonna argue, and then we're gonna rehang them again. And then we'll see what we have. We what happened to your books with my mother? What happened when you were done? Well, my

book got it went through several iterations, you know, for initially it was going to be she's like, Kenji, we have to do this in two volumes. And then I remember I remember we went in and had a long three hour lunch, talking about how the book was going to be in two volumes, how are we going to divide it? And then a week later, she was like, Kenji, the two volume idea is stupid. That's a bad idea. We're going to we're going to make it into one volume. You know, it was that kind of thing where, whatever her idea at the moment was, she was, she was all in on it, you know, but she could also change your mind. But you know, but the thing about working with your mom was that just given her track record, you know, she, I think right before mine, while we were working on mine, she Molly Stevens second book might have come out all about all about roasting, and the Oh, yeah. And grande Cosina had had just come out. And it's like, all these great, great books. And, and she, you know, she doesn't have a bad book in her in her in her backlog, you know, so it's like, whatever you knew that if she was, if she was if she said what you're doing is good. And if she said the idea, you know what, how it's turning out is good, then you knew that it was good. Even you know, because I had never published a book in my life. And so I kind of had to go, I had to trust her, you know, and I did, and I'm very glad I did. But, you know, like, like you said, she was a she was a great judge of what's good and what's not. And so she told you something he was you were doing was good than that. You know, that's why you sought out that approval, because you knew that she could tell. So yeah, my experience was working with her was that every meeting was passionate, every meeting was full of this is this is terrible. This is great. But what you knew that whatever we're going to land on at the end was going to be great.

And she was also it was everything to write with me. She was like, what about what about this form factor? What about she just hand me a bunch of books? And like paper stocks? She'll be always be thinking about, like, what's the paper stock gonna look like? What's the book gonna look? Like? What's the physical form factor? How's it going to feel like where's like, how is someone going to use it, she was just like, tuned into all of the, like, book as object thing as well, which, of course, you know, someone my age, I grew up on book as object because I am a lover of books, as you know what I mean.

But also a book you're going to use that you're going to open and reference and thumb through and leave on the counter open to a certain page. She was really big on the size and the shape of the book. And I won't even tell you what a book jacket experience was like, particularly when I was like, you know, 789 10 and in my early teens, my mother would bring home, 14 jackets and hang them all up, and we would sit in the kitchen, my mother, father and I and look at the mom. My mother would say, What do you think and, you know, we would just stare at book jackets. I mean, I don't know what everybody else was doing at the dinner table. But what I was looking at At any number of book jackets, I remember that by the time the Zuni Cafe came out, I had seen 17 iterations of that jacket it was it was actually jarring when I saw the book in the store, because I just thought, oh, you know, that's what I've been staring at for five years at home and hear other people know about this, right? Oh, I have she agonized over how it felt and how it looked. And it's surprisingly, that's the thing kind of about my mother's the vanity of the book, you know, even though you would certainly not accuse my mother of being a vain person. She knew the importance of vanity for the book as object as you say.

No, I mean, I think it's, I wish more people still thought about that. There's so many books look so nasty nowadays. You know what I mean? Like, they're just nasty. Yeah. Because nobody cares about them anymore. You know what I mean? So it's, uh, I don't know. So uh, Harold SE is back on how did she convince did she have to convince you to do that? The the second, the second version where like, like, I know that she signed you on to do the second version. And then she moved the publishing house it But how'd that go?

Yeah, it's one of the great regrets of my life that I I was her author, and I never got to work with her. Right? Yeah, timing just didn't work out. So yeah, I was. It was 1994 When I first met her, and it was at a dinner with a bunch of people after an IACP meeting. And I didn't know her. She didn't know me. But by the end of the dinner, we realize that I was at Scrivener, she was at Simon and Schuster. She was in charge of Scrivener food books. And so I was hers. And we had been trying for, I would say, a year to convince Simon and Schuster to do a revision of on food and cooking. And basically getting nowhere. And maybe two, three days after I got back from that ice trip, and in New York, I got a phone call from my agent who said, So Maria has been in touch, we've got a contract. It just happened like that. And then it took me 10 years to write that book. And that was just too long. By the time I was halfway done. She had moved down to Norton. So I never got the chance to work with her. But I had many opportunities when our whenever I was in New York, and in that time, and afterwards, actually, we would get together for lunch or dinner and talk about all kinds of things. And you're mentioning, Judy Rogers, his book reminded me of something that I actually forgotten about until just now, when Judy was writing her book, Maria came out to work with her in Berkeley, San Francisco. And Judy wanted to ask me some technical questions. And so Maria said, why don't we all get together for dinner? So we all got to dinner, got together for dinner at shape and ease. And I'm thinking, you know, this is this is a great gig answering a few questions and getting to eat here. We're, we're in the middle of dinner. And Maria looks over my shoulder, says excuse me, gets up from the table, walks over to another table and says, very loudly, I love you. And it turned out to be Mark Morris, the dancer who was in town for a performance with at the Berklee public events program. And so they had this wonderful conversation. Oh, Judy, and I were kind of looking at each other and and wishing that we were as bold as she was. Just get up when she saw what someone she loved. And, and love that. So yeah, she was she was irrepressible.

That's such a great word. Yes. irrepressible. At any moment, by the way, she called me how. Yeah, right. So she I said my I said, I'm making this squash soup every day at the restaurant and sometimes when I put it in the fridge, it bubbles and it Frost's and it's almost fermenting and I don't know why. And my mother said, Well, Joe, Ask how just call him and I said, Who's how? She said how McGee. And I said, Mom, I'm not going to call Harold McGee and say, Hey, buddy, I've got some fermenting soup. And I don't know why. I think he's got bigger fish to fry. And she said, Oh, for God's sake, just call him. I'm sure he's there. And I did write you a note. And you answered me that deed the squash was fermenting. I think we talked about dairy, interacting with the squash when it sits. But that was just it. I mean, if my mother wanted to ask Barack Obama questions, she just pick up the phone. She, in the nursing home, I had I put her in a nursing home for a few months, because she couldn't really couldn't. She needed that level of care. And I would she, I'd call her and she'd say, well, they just delivered my lunch. And I'd said, okay, you know, and I would send her food and because I knew how you know, and she'd say, I called down to the cafeteria, and I told Jay that I thought his soup was pretty good today, you know, the seasoning was really on my thought. And I'm thinking to myself, like, my mother is still crossing the remit shape and ease in her way, like, wherever she is, she's evaluating and admiring

constant evaluation. I'll tell you a story that she said about Kenji, here's the kind of thing she would do. So like Kenji, and I were writing our books, we're writing our books roughly at the same time, write mine much shorter. So like, even though it took me infinity for how long it should have taken to write it, you know, plus the years to start writing it, which Maria was very patient anyway. So like, we're actually physically writing at the same time. And you go into her office, and by the way, back me up, back me up folks like her office. I don't know if she actually had furniture because it was constructed of books. You know what I mean? Yes, you walk in, and she's like, just books, books, books, she would like constantly throw books off. So every time you had a meeting, you would end up with five books. And yet somehow, like her office was still 100% of the time. So I walk in, and her her assistant for most of the time I was there, it was a guy named Michel Coles. Right. So like, you go across, and then the assistants office, it was much neater, it had a, like a bookshelf slash filing thing. And on it were stacks of printed manuscript stuff. And Kenji had, like, you know, like a giant section of stacks of paper that he had already submitted via manuscript to, to Maria. So like, I would go in and see Kennedy's growing stack of paper, and be very jealous. And she was trying to play us off just to see who was going to get their manuscript on first. So she was like, poke fun at each of us. But I remember, like, early on in the process, because she was like, No, like I was saying very, very keyed into things like photos, right. And if I have time, I'll tell you another photo story later. So she's one day I don't know where she is, looks at me in her office. And like I said, like, whenever I'm with her, my knees are shaking, I'm petrified that she's going to all of a sudden excoriate me which she's never done. And she goes, you know, Kenji wants to take all of his own photos. And then just gives me this look, this gives me this look, like her eyes open up, like three times wider than normal, and her eyes open wide, which you want him to folks? And like, I was just like,

um, um,

and then, like, maybe like, three minutes as you were there, you remember this? Yeah. I was like, Oh, my God. But like, you don't look, she let him do it. And it ended up being the right thing to do. Because, you know, Kenji, there's no way you could have written that book with a photographer.

No. Especially especially big because I mean, I didn't really have the space for it. And, or Yeah, and like I said, I wrote a lot of my book in my underwear. I like to from like, midnight to 4am. So

doing the tube and book there.

Yeah, I'm not great at working with other people in general.

Yeah, that's true. I have to and it sucks, believe me. The guy just not just used the Yeah. So I'll tell you a quick story about photography. So I also, like find it difficult to work with people that I don't already know. intimately, you know what I mean? So I wanted to use my and you know, since she's gone now, I can safely say this, I wanted to use my brother in law who's a professional photographer Travis Huggett to shoot my book because among other things, like he knows me and he knows my level of disorganization my level of crazy right and also he's quick and doesn't mind working with whatever lights are around he's not gonna like you know, print it all up. and all this other stuff. So I knew I wanted to work with him. And I was like what we, you know, I floated the idea of working with my brother in law to Maria. And she was like, no. You may never work with your family on a book. And I was like, okay. Okay, so what I did was, hey, we got Rick Bayless on Hey, Rick, how you doing? Hi, I'm

doing great. How are you?

I'm doing well do I was a fish. So what I did was folks, is I said, Okay, this is this is the closest I got to lying to Maria. So you just you guys decide whether this is. So I I just got Travis to shoot a bunch of photos of cocktails because we'd already decided I was gonna do a cocktail book on she didn't want me to write a cocktail book, by the way at first. She's like, people don't read cocktail books. Don't write a cocktail book, write a book people read. She's writing right and right and wrong. She ended up bending. But anyway, whatever. So I had Travis shoot a bunch of stuff. And I just gave her the the pictures. And she was like, yeah, we can use this guy. And so then I had to maintain this fiction the entire time. I never said he's not my brother in law. I said, What do you think of this guy? And and so we ended up using my brother in law I'll never forget. We were in her office for one of these marathon photo sessions where she was going through the photos and how they matched up with chapters. And Travis and I were there at Norton c&c Did one of these like conference tables. And she turns to me terrified, terrified every day, especially when we were together terrified. She turns to me. She goes, where are you going? For Thanksgiving this year? Oh, by the way, Maria always went to Thanksgiving. John's which restaurant out some All right. Yo, yeah. Yeah. That was for Thanksgiving. That was her Thanksgiving tradition. Yeah. Which, by the way, good call. Probably

right. Oh, fantastic.

Yeah. Nice room. It's a nice room if you've never been to JGS main room. Nice room anyway. So she's like, Hey, Dave, where are you going to Thanksgiving? She doesn't talk like that. You know what I mean? Hey, Dave, where are you going to Thanksgivings? Yeah, I'm gonna go. I'm going to Connecticut. And then she turns to travel. Oh, what about you travel? Are you going for Thanksgiving? And he goes, I'm also going to Connecticut. And that was the closest and we're both like, don't take don't take, don't take don't take and she didn't dig. And she ended up like really liking Travis's work. And I think understanding that, you know, the way he can interact with me, like made the book better. So I don't know whether she secretly knew somewhere deep inside that something was up, but that's the closest I ever got to lying to Maria.

Well, they've she didn't know but now she does. There will be repercussions.

Yeah, I feel good. coming clean. The Stasi knew so I made the Stasi maintain a lot. It's never cool. Never cool making somebody else maintain your life for you. But this isn't isn't a lie or digest. Like is it a hard omission?

You lie a lie. As as the only remaining Gorna Shelly gene pool, I'm gonna say you've lied. You shall be judged.

Well, I knew she would judge. That's what I like I had to like I had to maintain it had to maintain.

You should know that my mother would call me and only reference people as to how their book sales were. You know, she'd be like, Well, Joe called me 60,000 imprint right now. That's how she would identify people. Everybody was how many copies were in print. And she was always so excited about how well your book did in a category that she didn't. She didn't have faith in honestly,

she did not have faith in the category. And the only reason it ended up being that was she. I was super late and even starting to write a book. And she hauled me into the Norton offices, and had me like do like a song and dance for the North Norton, friggin big wigs. And I made them a bunch of cocktails. And she's like, Well, David turns out that the, you know, the management here at Norton are a bunch of booze hounds. So they want you to write the cocktail book whether or not it sells. I was like, Okay,

I remember that. I literally remember that. And I remember her saying she was surprised that they were on board. And that she was very she had every faith in you. But that she didn't believe in the trend. And I think she was always so astounded by how well the book did and is still doing

well for us. She like she wanted me to write a book that look a lot like look like Kenji. You're like the home run hitter. Right? So it's like, you know, she knew that that book was going to be a monster. You know what I mean? And so, you know, she was really good at that. She was good at seeing like, a need that didn't quite exist yet and then like hitting that you know what I mean?

That one that one was uh, oh, yeah.

So, one quick story before we plan on charcuterie just So, oh, Jaya Jim Lahey, another one. Hey, Jim, how you doing best? Two quick things I say so Jim Lee he's Sullivan Sullivan street bread. That book, right. So more bread books, the first No need bread book, then like any other bread book ever. Right, Jim?

I don't know if that's true. I would love to think that that's true, but I think Well, thank you. I wish that were true. But because because if it weren't true, I guess I would be I would be in a very great a nice place right now. But, you know, yeah, definitely. You know, I mean, I know, I kind of I'm a little late to the conversation. And I apologize. But yeah, Maria was, you know, an amazing editor. And, you know, as you know, Dave, she was, is quite was quite a character. That's how you, Jim. And yeah, you know, we had we had many arguments, but they always ended up. You know, we always ended up in agreement. In the end,

this conversation has become like a pirate ship. Yeah. This is a ship of pirates.

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I wanted to get all these people on just because we're so like some of us like are in similar veins. But we're also so different. I wanted to show some of the breadth of what she kind of was involved with.

Well, I will say knowing that Rick is here. Rick, how many books did my mother do with you? Am I wrong? Saying it's more than 20?

No, oh, it's way, way less than 28? Oh, we did eight, eight books together? Wow. Yeah. It was amazing. Because she was the first and only editor that I had. We did this one other little book that I did with my daughter. And Maria just couldn't get her head around it. And it was a P because Maria only wanted to do books that were rock solid. And that would last forever. And I knew this book wasn't going to it was a it was a point in time book when my daughter was between 12 and 16 years old. And we wrote this book together. And I knew it wasn't going to have legs beyond maybe three, four or five years. And so she couldn't wrap her head around it. So we told it to somebody else. But it taught me a huge lesson that Maria was one of the few editors that really edited. And so we were with another company for that one book. And I was shocked beyond belief that my editor in that one didn't really even read the book just said, Oh, it'll be fine. It's like, wow, I was used to Maria, going through every single word I wrote and marking it up and the manuscript would come back, and it looked like flattie

reduce you to your, your, your lowest, your lowest level,

absolutely.

break you down.

It was super interesting to me that I haven't worked with her for well, she bought my first book 3536 years ago. And so then I didn't do anything with her for 10 years after that, because we were just getting started in our restaurants. And I put all my focus on that well for about eight years. And then I wrote my second book, 10 years that came out 10 years after the first and it was so surprising to me that she would look at everything that I wrote as though it like, I don't know whether she never retained the knowledge, but she always wanted me to explain everything really clearly. And I would say Maria, you've taught, you know, I've written about this already before, and she's gonna remind me what that is. And I was like, Oh, I'd want to pull out my hair. But that actually is what made the books really good is that she was coming at everything with this sort of new perspective, every time and it was just fascinating to work with her. I, you know, I know a lot of people had knockdown drag out fights with her we never did. Now I know you're in I, you know, I don't know. I mean, well, first of all,

Rick, you were her favorite author? And she and she, she would let me know that. I don't know, remind me, she would remind me, like constantly about about what an amazing author you were. Jim, she

had a favorite author every year. I love you all. Whoever turned in their manuscript on time with good recipes was the favorite author. Yeah,

I believe that. But I can say

Alex, I'm, I think you're probably lucky you didn't have siblings, too, that you wish she would have picked you guys against each other.

I think you know, for me honestly peep like people hounded me for years, why haven't you written a book? And I said, if you know, my mother, you'll know why I have never written. I was never going to write one. And finally I wrote one and I only left it in front of her when it was already published. And she just said, Wow, I had her babysit Ava and I left the book on the table. And she said really, sited want me to read it. And I said it would have never gotten published. If you had read one word, Rick, your first book was authentic Mexican. Is that right? That's right. We I tell you, I know what the cover of your book looks like, like, burned in my brain for life. Because my mother agonized over your book jacket, my mother agonized over all books, really. But that book jacket and the message, I think she felt like you two were entered in a relationship where you were exploring a new topic and new territory. And I think she would always say to me, Rick knows so much about what he's working on what he's doing his subject. He's a master of his subject. And I want him to explain it all to everyone so they can understand. And that's going to take a lot of remedial, I think was the word she used talk about what every little thing was in meant and how to use it. Because I think she felt the ingredients and the curating of the recipes was so unusual, however simple the cooking ended up actually being.

Yeah, I think that she she wasn't it, she didn't have a natural affinity toward it, which was actually to my benefit, because it gave me it really foes forced me to be able to bring things alive in a completely clear way so that people can understand it. I mean, she taught without her. I would be nowhere in the cookbook world, because she really taught me how to write.

How do you get with her, Rick?

It was just one of those crazy happenstance things she had published Barbara trop, and somebody else that did really serious books. And I had through a friend of mine, actually. Martha rose Schulman who writes times a lot now, Martha had introduced me to her agent, she had just published her first book. And through that agent, I, we put the manuscript as much of a manuscript as I had in front of Maria. And I'll never forget going to New York, the first time to meet Maria and I was, of course, scared to death 1985 And she took dnn me to a to a, an Indian restaurant, like in some place, and drank a martini, I'll never forget it and drank a martini. And I was like, Oh my God, if I have any alcohol, I might just fall in a heap on the floor. And so we talked about things and I couldn't I it was a super strained conversation. And I thought, Oh, she's gonna hate you'd already signed it by that point. But she I thought she was gonna hate me and but the one thing that she kept saying is, you know how to do your research, you know how to your this is what I'm after is somebody that can do the research and because we had both been in graduate school and learn and knew how to do research, she was one of the very few people that would actually, like, support people like me, and honestly, without her, I don't know where I would be. Oh, wow.

Wow. You should know I mean, she just you right when you say she didn't have an affinity and I don't know I don't want to say Do you dislike not Having an affinity and disliking are not the same thing. But she also we, we didn't cook, she didn't cook your food at home ever. My father wouldn't have liked that kind of food. And by the way, just so you know, my mother would not make anything my father didn't like. So I didn't, we didn't eat avocados or peanut butter or anything. My father didn't like anchovies. If my father didn't like it, it just didn't exist. And I think you know, that Mexican food the way you are, and we're cooking it, oh, that was just that was like may as well have been food that was dropped off from Maurice.

Right, I really thought that she react reacted to it or related to it in that way. But you know that one Christmas, because we always spend Christmas, not this last one, but always been Christmas in Wahaca. And I convinced your mother and your father to come to Mexico and spend Christmas with us there. And it was so fascinating, because I knew that neither one of them had much of an affinity for the food. And your father knew so much about all the history and the especially Ecclesiastical History. And so we visited a ton of churches and cathedrals and stuff like that. And it was so remarkable to just see the two of them kind of come alive during that time. And and then I think your mom said to me, at the end of our trip, oh my god, we had no idea what we were getting into. And we wouldn't trade this for the world or whatever, you know, I mean, it was just that, that suddenly, I could see that she could see me in, in the midst of that culture. And this is what I was bringing to people through the books. Totally.

So great to hear this, Jim, how she get with you.

Um, and to remember, so the New York Times published that article, I think 6006 or something like that.

This is the Bittman the bitmap? Yeah. And

I'm so happy that you just referred to it as that article. And we knew all of us knew what you were talking about. Yes.

The Bittman, the Bittman article.

You didn't, you didn't use the Bittman, where he was like, the article.

And then I ended up hiring a an agent, which was Jonathan now. And Janice, I don't know if Janice is on this call, too, because she was such good friends with Maria and had such like, held Maria and high esteem. And knew her so I mean, like, like, like us, we know her very well. But she she, I guess began I guess, after we had written a proposal for the book. My my co author, Rick, Rick flast. She ended up you know, putting it up for bid. And, you know, obviously, I did not go with I went with what, what would have been the best, the best editor as opposed to the highest bid, I believe.

I remember that.

And, you know, I'm glad that we did that. You know, I mean, the book recently has gone through its 15th reprint, which isn't bad.

Great for a bread book, like cocktail book. She told me bread books don't sell. And yeah.

Kind of, and to kind of echo what what Brooke was saying that, you know, she really had this affinity for things that eat that she wasn't necessarily that interested in, but she, she kind of would almost like try to have this sense of the book or the written word or the thing that you produced. Got the whole book, not just the words in it, but photographs, everything, the jacket, as some sort of like, like Testament or some type of, of thing you leave behind. And she kind of made me very aware of of that as well. That I don't know whether she you know, baked bread at home. I mean, Alex, you'd have to say whether she did or not. Well,

we started eating your bread. And that and that what my mother would have never been interested in you. Yeah, we started eating your bread and she brought it home and I said, this bread gets stuck in the back of your teeth in the best way and she would say right, the crust and Can people make this at home? She would always say that about you. Can people do this? Well, she was nervous and fearful that people would think it was something you buy. And that's something you could actually make yourself. Yeah. And I said, I think you're gonna get him. With your help, you're gonna get him to articulate how,

yeah, I think that but like what Rick was saying, like, it's so important that that an author tries to explain even at the, you know, or over, explain or explain it in the most direct way possible. So that, like, anyone would get it not just, like, not the audience that's already, like, ready to whatever bake bread at home. But But I mean, I think we used to call the, the avatar, the nickname of the Avatar was something like Suzy Topeka. Like, imagine this person in the middle of the country, somewhere in the middle of the country, or Johnny Topeka, who picks up the book. And, and, and has to read it and, you know, obtain pleasure from it. You know, because at the end of the day, and when you when you, you know, the aha moment with a cookbook recipe is you take the thing that you're making, or you labored over or didn't labor over out of the stove. And it's amazing. And then And then, and then everything else you did to get there. You know, was worth it. You know, and I think that if a book, at least with cookbooks, if they don't do that, then obviously, you know, it's I mean, they're not really going to have a life after. Yeah. Well, I think

she took credit for in your book, Jim, was the word no work on the cover? Yes. Like, she's like, that's sold 1000s of books? Yeah.

Yeah, yeah, she was, she was really aware of that to that like, like, how the mass market would do things. I mean, she was really kind of, really, she opened my eyes up to a lot of a new way of seeing what it is that I was doing what it is that that that people do. And again, from the perspective of a publisher, from the perspective of, you know, her office, overlooking the New York Public Library, you can't get a better office location for a publisher, but an editor that is, then that, you know, there's something you know, really beautiful about that, you know, her where her office was in relationship to the library, I found, you know,

I think, here's the thing, my mom was such a self, so high functioning, honestly, so smart, and she would curated a, like a, pick the expert, you know, she would always say to me, he really knows about this, or she really knows, she was only interested in the true expert who had done the work. That's the only kind of person that ever appealed to my mother. And she would sort of sniff out the phonies, or sniff, you know, weed out her idea of someone who wasn't going to report for class on time. But then, even though she picked the expert, and there was there were all these high level conversations with all of you. She wanted it to be explained in the books in the simplest of terms laid out so simply that anybody could be invited into the book. And I think it's kind of interesting that we're all talking about how she was basically Darth Vader. But somehow he wanted everybody to come to the party on the Deathstar. Once the book was done, don't you think?

Yes, well, I like to look, I used to look, yes. But yes, I would say she wanted to extract the essence of the idea that you were trying to put forth so that everyone could get it. And I think that was the hardest thing, at least for me to do, or, or grasp. You know, that. Just to kind of like, you know, not not speaking in tongues, but speaking in a language that people can get. I used to compare her not necessarily to Darth Vader, although that is a really good analogy I used from I look at her as, you know, remember the character that Hugh Laurie used to play on that TV show house? Yes. I used to view her as a, that same character, but as a book editor. That's brilliant. And, yeah, and she, you know, basically, the walking, eating, drinking the work of that she was working on. And then all of a sudden, I would imagine in the middle of night figuring out what needs to be done. And then writing you the next morning or calling you or asking for a meeting, to find a way of of maybe trying to convince the author to maybe change The slightly the direction, you know,

that's so great. She would she has I think she teased out the the really clear explanation from the brightest in every topic, don't you think?

I think you know, in that sense, I think she was really sort of a true, you know, academics, you know, a scientist almost in the in that everything that went into any of her books, and this is true of all the all. I haven't read obviously all the books she's edited, but everyone that I know of, there's no, there's nothing extreme, there's no throwaway lines, you know, there's nothing that isn't backed up by an explanation. And I found that working with her also, she was never afraid to change her mind when there was new, you know, when when when there was a new idea when there was new evidence, you know, so she, you could be going down one path and working on a book in one way. And then suddenly, if she had new information presented to her, if you had a new chapter to turn in, she wasn't afraid to completely throw out everything that we had just worked so hard on to retool it and, and break it down again and come up with a better approach. So you know, in that sense, she was always, always always willing to go back on her on her own previous decisions, and and of course, to challenge you, as the author, whether you were presenting things in the best way possible.

Yeah. Was it always for the better? That's what I want to know, when you say, sort of she would admit or throw out do you think it was always for the better? Well, I

think we all I mean, I think we always ended up landing on the best idea, or at least as close and approximation to the best city as we could. So you know, sometimes we would go down paths that we weren't sure of which I mean, she would always act like she was sure of them. But once we got once once she realized, you know what, this isn't working, that you know, that that's that was a phrase, she would use a lot, this isn't working, and it could come after weeks of work. So So you know, what the decisions we made in the process weren't always for the better. And but but that was what was great about her is that she would always be willing to say, you know, what, this isn't working. And wasn't afraid to say it. You know, she would, she would say a lot. Even even after you put in all the work.

I find I said, hundreds of millions of times, I'd say Mom, what are you doing, and she'd say, I'm daydreaming about my books. My mother must have said that, to me 100 million times.

That was very clear that she lived in those books until they were, you know, finally, out off of her desk completely. She really lived in the middle of them, and really spent a lot of time with them and giving feedback and so forth. Oh,

I mean, going back to what you were saying, Did she do something? Like, it's things you disagree with is like, the one thing I really disagree with her where she like, you know, didn't bend and like I was like, fine. Well, Ben was on the title of the of my book twice, right. So she chose liquid intelligence as the title, which I think is is smart. And the tagline the art and science of the perfect cocktail. I was like, Maria, there is no such thing as perfection. Like my whole shtick is there is no such thing as perfection. She's like, that's the title. And I was like, Okay. And I knew she was right. It's, I'm sure it's so more as a result of the title. So who am I? Yeah, I mean,

she really agonized over that title. Let me tell you. Oh, my God, that was a rough one. But she I remember her being feeling ferocious. Also, which is not shocking to anybody on this call. You should just know if you didn't know that as her child. Boy, did she love you all and the work that you did, and admired you all, so much. I think you all represented something. You know, my mother, I always say like my mother was the reason I became a chef was because my mother intellectualized cooking and, and the net result of my childhood was my desire to go out and actually cook. You know, it was like, she began the sentence, she began with a phrase, which was the intellectual delving and sharing of cooking, and I finished it by actually going and cooking chicken 70 million chicken breasts, to substantiate her idea. So you should just know that I think you all represented something she admired so much and whatever. Whatever nasty things she said to you. She meant every word, and whatever loving things, she said she meant every word in equal measure.

You know, Alex, I once had an interaction with her on the other side. When I was the enemy. Did you know this? I tell you this girl. No. So can you you brought up how fierce she was about defending her authors and her books. And we've we've all talked about how uh we've all talked about how she would choose like, like niches that didn't exist yet and kind of like like make them exist and charcuterie, which came up was one of them. No one had written a book on charcuterie and Ruhlman posts, and I don't think he'd written a book yet Ruhlman had done. You know, his soul. The chef book, which I sold infinity copies, there's like this right? It wasn't his book. And so they wrote the charcuterie book and there were no technic, there was no books on how to do charcuterie there was Greg sins book, which wasn't really a how to and it didn't exist. I was writing for food arts magazine at the time, you know, a lowly, you know, whatever, you know, 20 something year old guy, you know. And my job was to write about charcuterie and restaurants and for food Arts, which is anyway, so like, I had the the galleys or the proofs, right? And I'd read through it. And I had some questions about like technical recipes, because I was going to, you know, recommend it to chefs and whatnot. There charcuterie book. So, like, I didn't expect the editor of the book to call me, but she, she called me, and oh, my God, when you were perceived as her enemy, which any critic by the way, one of her books had anything critical to say it was the enemy. Oh, my God, oh, my God, if she could have sent nanobots through the frickin telephone lines, to like, gouge out my ears and eyes, and like, you know, shred meat, and I wasn't saying anything bad because he knows an important super important book, you know what I mean? But I was like, you know, I was like, well, this assault ratio, and this what you know how I am people, anyone who's listened to the show knows how I am the minimum when you know, all these little things. And I thought she was gonna reach through the phone and rip my head off. I was like, and I remembered her. And that's maybe one of the reasons why I was so scared out of my mind when I was meeting up with her for Nastasia forced me to meet with her because she was going to, because Maria forced me to write a book. So I know what it's like to be on the other side of that equation of her fiercely defending her authors.

That's charcuterie book was a book that she carried around with her and her little backpack, emotionally for years and years. She really worked hard on that, again, not a subject. My mother, by the way, when I was growing up, made a lot of patties and stuff. When I was a young when I was really little. She always had potatoes in the fridge weighted down with bricks. And she was sort of a novice at charcuterie when I was really little. And so I think when that book came up, and the topic came up, probably, I don't know, she was, that was really a tough one for her to get through. And I know that Michael Roman didn't mince words, I know that. I don't, I don't think they were on each other's Christmas lists. But the net result, like you could no one could argue with the results. And the impact that book had, you know, I would see Michael at a party and he would cross the room, you know, to say to me, like, How is your mother? How's she doing? You know, sort of like, it was like, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, you know, it was it was gonna be but it wasn't going to be always so pretty and yet it was also going to be beautiful.

So it looks like we're running out of time. You want to just go around the go around the room and and share something on the on the way out, by the way. Thanks. All of you for being here,

especially Alex are coming on.

Yeah. Yeah.

So yeah, Dave, if you want to go around, it might be best since you've got a list of names and ready to like call them out because everybody probably has different orders. And Mike.

Oh, yeah. All right. Okay. Well, Harold want you start us out.

Okay, well, as I said, I didn't really have the chance to work with her. But I really enjoyed every chance I had to chat with her. And the last time was, unfortunately, almost 10 years ago, I did a talk at the Natural History Museum. And she came and we walked from the museum, down Central Park West, beautiful spring night into Midtown, just talking about all kinds of stuff. And that's it was just wonderful, man. You know, we parted said you know, keep in touch and yeah, so I wish I had more memories to share, but but that's the one that sticks with me.

The last time I spoke with him, was about a month maybe a month or so ago, when I guess she was in the hospital. If I'm not mistaken. She sounded really kind of happy but maybe medicated because she was kind of a little loopy, like Yeah, okay. Good. So I didn't realize she was, you know, having I didn't know. I mean, I wish I and it seemed to be dealing with the, you know, the crappiest premier situation that we were all in as well as could be expected. I, you know, the only one memory that I have was, we did have a meeting one time in her office. And now I have so many memories of Maria from photoshoots, to, you know, sometimes, you know, we had at the beginning, when we first started establishing a working relationship, I remember I had handed her a manuscript that we thought was good, she had sent it back, you know, basically, deleting the entire thing. marking up every single page, eliminating whole chapters. I mean, you know, like, this is not the direction there's no you're not doing this, you know, we've written basically like Kitson, confidential from, from the point of view of a bread Baker, initially, and she's like, that's not the book you're writing, this is the book you're writing. And I remember having a confrontation with her about something to do with that, where she ended up crying was like a screaming match to screaming at me in that meeting room, and Norton, the top of her lungs. And it was just one of these moments where, you know, I love I truly loved her. I mean, she was a really great person, but I also, you know, in my, my youth in my arrogance, you know, I kind of like, wasn't really understanding what she represented, and how much she really cares that, you know, at the end of the day, that, you know, she's really understood her subject, not the subject, necessarily, that that I was trying to express, but her subject being the publishing world, and books, and how, you know, almost like a Broadway play, it's like, you can't click the book, if the book isn't, doesn't go out perfect. Then, you know, didn't didn't matter what your intentions were, in writing the book, and, you know, it's almost, you know, she took it that series, and I think what she was really great at was, you know, kind of like, focusing on author focusing writer to really get the point across, you know, I've got a photograph of Maria, that's like, at the last photo, shoot, I have a photograph of her that's like, literally seven feet. It's like six feet by four feet tall. I've heard sitting in our apartment, freezing, because, because I don't remember why we ended up having the apartment was somewhat cold. But but but it's, it's, you know, it's I might need to find the home for this photograph Alex, on it, but it really is it really, yeah, it's beautiful. It's beautiful. It is the essence of your mom, you know,

it's a gem for the people out there. If they want to see kind of process and exasperation and kind of what she could bring, like, by forcing you to bring your best, why don't you tell a quick story about that, that iconic photo of you with the bread on your face?

Oh, that was just me goofing around with the photographer. I mean, she see this like that. I mean, we, you know, she put me together with the photographer, Squire Fox. And I another thing I can be grateful for, you know, I swear, and I have become, you know, dear friends over the years, and I would never I wouldn't have that relationship, that friendship. If, if Maria hadn't introduced us, and, you know, he was, I think the moment doing work with Tyler Florence or something like that. You know, I mean, she's kind of like, you know, you got to use this photographer. He's great. He's fantastic. You have to use him. He's the best. He's, he's the person you're going to use. And she had, you know, like, almost like an iron will. That if she wanted you to do something, you were gonna do it. Even if you even if you ended up arguing with her, you're gonna do it. You know? And, you know, I and I have to say it's like, you know, no. He, he was an incredible guest because we were really deep friends. As a result of that of that introduction. And we've done all three books together, you know, so that that dough on the head thing was more like, just kind of like, whimsy in play, but she saw when she saw the context, she was like, brilliant. Yeah.

We often don't know Jen. I'm with you where you begin and the loaf of bread ends.

Yeah, exactly. Yeah, sometimes I feel like a blob of data. Especially after 11 months and corns 11 months, and working under these conditions.

kanji.

Yeah, you know, Maria. So the last time I saw her in person, we've talked on the phone a few times since then, but the last time I saw her in person was right after my daughter was born, so maybe three and a half years ago or so. And I, you know, she, we met in person, because she insisted on meeting so that she could give me a gift for my daughter, which was a beautiful blanket that my daughter still uses. And, you know, to me, she, she was, so she was so happy that I was happy, you know, she was so happy that, that I just had my daughter and how happy we were about it. And, and she was still, you know, riding high on how well the food lab was doing. And, you know, her telling me that she was proud of me it really, there's nobody else in the world who, you know, maybe even more than my own mother, who's whose approval meant that much, you know, and who's you could tell that she, she felt about her, her writers, and the people that she loved and the people that she worked with, she loved them, you know, and she and she was so passionate about them and so supportive of them. And it was, it was weird to see because, you know, at the beginning of my relationship with her, it's like, here's this person who you know, is tough, and you know, is honest, and you know, is, you know, doesn't mince words is, is someone who you're probably going to butt heads with, but that's, you know, that the fact that she's so passionate about everything means that when you finally do become close with her, it's, it's, it's as close of a relationship as you're ever going to have with with another person. And I knew, you know, like, after a couple years of working her with her that she was going to have my back as much as any family member would know, you know, that, that that winning her trust, and having her believe in me, was just, you know, is very, very meaningful, much more than any other person I've ever worked with. And yeah, you know, it's, it's, it's it even now, you know, even now with her gone, it still feels like when I'm when I'm, I know when I'm going to be right, you know what, as I'm reading, I'm reading another book now, but is that she, you know, she she's going to I still, I still feel like I'm seeking her. I want to make her proud, you know, that I that her approval, that she's still she's still looking at me and making sure that I'm doing the right thing. It's a feeling that you don't I don't really have with many other with many other people other than I, you know, other than my own family and a few very close friends. So yeah, I don't I don't know if everyone if everyone gets that feeling. But that's that's how I feel.

Of course, it's it's her defining the standard you had for yourself already and hurt. She's matching it. And the only way to match the standard is to show you to illustrate that she loves you. And even if that love wasn't expressed always in the prettiest way, she leaves you with a standard and you and you just keep using it. It doesn't dissipate with time.

Yeah, exactly. Wait,

yeah, I got a couple of things that come to my mind. And one of them is actually way back in like 1986, we had turned our manuscript in, and the basically what she, she didn't respond for six weeks. And I was devastated. I'd worked on this book for five years. And I was, and I didn't know what to think. But I didn't really know her anything. And I thought, what if she just tells me that she's not going to publish the book. And finally, I got, I think, a letter from her if I'm not mistaken. And basically, the gist of the letter was, this book needs to be cut in half. And that was the most devastating thing anybody had ever said to me, and the most perfect thing that anybody had ever said to me. So I started the work of basically, you know, condensing it and and going through the manuscript, and that lesson, taught me the most important lesson of my life. And that is how to be succinct How to Be careful with the words that I'm saying to always ask myself, do people really need to know this, or is this extraneous and I would actually get in the way of people understanding things. And over the years, having the opportunity to work with her over and over again. I started writing for her, literally writing for her. And so I, I could say to you, all that every word I have ever written in a cookbook has always been written for Maria, because I thought she was so insightful in what needed to be said that. And sometimes I would write something and I will go, okay, she's gonna, she's gonna flag this, I know, she's gonna flag it, but I want to put it in there anyway. And then when she was like it, I would go, Okay, cut it, you know, I mean, it was like, I'd already had the conversation with her. But for some reason, I felt like it needed to be in there. And I swear, she taught me how to write. And I am for ever, ever, ever grateful for that, because it was a super hard lesson to learn the first time through, but not a lesson that I didn't need to know. And I will say that I thought she was just brilliant at being able to pick things out that were positive and things that were negative. And so she really, she really taught me and I even told her that, like, toward some of the last books that I did with her, and I would hear it, you know, I've written this entire thing for you. So I can tell you, there's places you're going to flag, but most of it's going to be okay, I can tell you that just handing it in to you right now. And that was really fabulous thing, I think, because I think she knew, then what a huge contribution she had made, not just to my production of books and stuff, but to my life.

That was mutual.

And Stassi, you want to say something?

Oh, I just loved her so much. I really, really loved and look forward to our very long lunches. And you know, there's a few people in the world that are truly themselves and authentically themselves. And I'm so happy to know her because she is one of those people and I will always aspire to be as truthful and as authentic as she is. So she's a real inspiration. And I and I love most of all that she's scared the death out of you, Dave. So

I mean, I think you know, that's probably the most, I mean, like, that's basically in a nutshell, Anastasia, like her like, the authenticity is amazing. I'm going to give. I'm gonna give Alex actually the last word. I'll say something I'll give Alex last word, Alex, when you're done, just say cooking issues, and then it's over. That's how the show ends. You just say, the cooking issues, and it's over. But thanks again. You know, Rick Bayless, Jim Lee, Harold McGee, Kenji. Overall, Alex, obviously, I got every day miss anyone that we were talking to, and I got to everyone, I think I really appreciate you guys coming on, I just thought it was important for people to who never got a chance to work with her to kind of understand how important she was not just to, you know, not just to us, but, you know, to everyone who's ever read a book that she helped bring into existence. And I think you have a, it's, there's this fiction that authors do things kind of on their own, and they don't, and she just had such an outsized impact on the world. And you know, I, I'm a huge consumer of content, and information. And so much of it is garbage is so bad. And so, you know, the fact that she brought, like, so much like amazing, well thought out things into the world, so much content into the world, and that she cared so deeply about it. And this is something that I think, doesn't really, it's not that it existed everywhere, because the world has always been garbage. But I think it's even rarer now to find anyone, no one could approach which, you know, the way she was and the way she handled things. But, you know, I see the world getting further away from her ideals in terms of the quality of content. And I just think the world is a worse place without Maria.

Wow. I'm trying not to cry. I wish that my mother could have heard all this, but I'm sure she would have waved it off. said Oh, don't be silly. Even though you weren't that articulate, you would have made it some way on your own. Without me, she would probably, you know, like she would describe your shortcoming and then give you a huge compliment. So you didn't know where you ever stood. But one of my favorite things was my mum gave someone who didn't know my mother at all, at the Institute of Culinary Education, asked her to come in and give a talk about book writing. And I was a teacher on the faculty at the time. And so she gave this sort of seminar on you know, writing a book and what that would be like, and she stood and they miked her, you know, they put a microphone on her, and she was walking around the room talking and the room was full of students, and I was there. And she was just talking about books and whatever else. And she this young, bright eyed bushy tailed students said, you know, I really want to write a book, and I think and my mother said, Hold on a minute, I have to go to the bathroom. Minister is in front of like, 200 people, I swear to God, she just walked out of the room with her microphone on, went to the bathroom. We heard her peeing. Everybody heard her peeing, because the mic was still on. And she came all the way back into the room and said, Okay, I'm ready to listen to you. Now, what were you saying? And the students said, I want to write a book, but I really don't know what about and my mom said, Well, then don't write a book for God's sake, don't waste our time. And she turned and walked away. And I thought, yeah, okay. Like I don't even know where mom I work here and you're embarrassing me like I don't even know how that covers the aids of it. But there's something so endearing about the trueness of every single moment from the peeing to the blunt response. You should just know that she loved you all so much I grew up and even in this part of my life, I know so much about all of you above and beyond how I came to know all of you myself on my own I know a lot about all of you. And I want to thank you for giving my mother a purpose and a use for her great quirky gift. And with that said, ah editor issues and cooking issues.

Thanks Alex.

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