Cooking Issues Transcript

So Many Bad Words in Butchery (feat. Heather Marold Thomason)


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Hello, and welcome to cooking issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of cooking issues coming to you live on the heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from whenever to whenever I'm in the Lower East Side of Manhattan. We got the Stasi the hammer Lopez joining us from Connecticut. How you doing assassin kid? And we got Matt in the booth in Rhode Island. How you doing Matt Nastasia the flogger Lopez? Oh yeah. So for those of you that don't know, before we come on, we have to like clap so that you know Matt can sync up our recording later. Anastasia has some sort of cricket bat that she's using to hit some sort of chained up enemy in her in her house right now. At least that's what it sounded like. Is that fairly accurate?

Yes. Probably the anti is the anti TP neighbor, isn't it?

Right? Yeah. Yeah, go back. Yeah, Anastasia, if you heard anything of it, like from like, the anyone about the TPS? When are you going to erect it? Yeah. When When are you planning I really love if

you could help me but I know that you traveling is not possible. So that's a no.

We got John was back in New York City. That's not a no, a no is no. Anyway, we got John in back in New York City. Do them all. Thanks. Yeah. You sound you're like yes. Yep. Yeah. New York is not a bad place to be like, like it New York is not like bad right now. It's not like a terrible place to be things are happening in New York kind of again, right?

It's beginning to open up a little bit again. Yeah, once I get my second shot next week, I'm

going to feel a lot better about going out and doing things. Yeah. Have you heard of the term? Vax hole? No. Yeah. So it was like the Urban Dictionary, which I know whatever Urban Dictionary, but it has its moments. It was the Word of the Week A while ago, and it's someone who brags about being fully vaccinated. You did when most of the people around them are not. I'm not saying that you're a vaxholm. I'm not calling you a VAX hole. You're saying it's an interesting word. At this point like 20% of the country is vaccinated already. You think you have something in there at least one shot. Anyway, I digress we have today. And for anyone on the chat room, get your questions ready. And John, can you monitor the Twitter in case anything comes in during the because I have a feeling that if people were paying attention, like these are the kinds of questions that they have that I can't readily answer because not an expert. But we have today with us, Heather Merrill Thomason, the founder and proprietor proprietor is that right proprietor owner, what runner? What do you do you go by all of those things? Yeah, of primal supply meets in, in the great city of Philadelphia. How're you doing?

Hi, I'm doing great.

Yeah. So like, if you have any, if you're in the chat room, and you have any questions on, you know, any meat or butchery related questions, send them on. And now in the meantime, let's let's get people, why don't you want to talk a little bit about primal supply meats, but just to get us started?

Oh, sure. Okay, primal supply meat. So we are a whole animal butchery based in Philadelphia. Basically, what I've been doing for five, five years or so, businesses about to be five is building up a local supply chain. So I work directly with local farmers in our region that I've built relationships with. And I source and buy everything is cool animals base at this point, the animals are being grown for primal. I work with some local slaughterhouses manage processing, and then bring it all into our poetry in Philadelphia, where we then, you know, cut, cut all of these primals and sub primals, as we receive the animals from our slaughterhouses into cuts for our three retail butcher shops. So we have like three kind of, you know, classic brick and mortar walk in chat with a butcher over the counter shops. We have a CSA style subscription program where people can sign up for weekly box of meat. And then we also work with some restaurants around the city. So So yeah, so I'm like this kind of middle middle woman, if you will, managing sourcing and then kind of building up a market for local meat and fairly

cool. Now, how did you get into this? So I feel like you know, like, the butcher is kind of like, evenly divided between people who's like whole family has been butchers. Like my stepfather is the first person in his family for like seven generations who wasn't a butcher. Well, you know, I mean, he broke the line. So it's like, there's butcher families and and there's people that come to butchery. And you come to butchery, right?

I do. I do. I think I'm just like, I'm an inherent problem solver. So I'm a career changer. I was a graphic designer, I studied and practiced graphic design for about a decade. And but I've forever been a lover of food cooker and eater of food. And I was never I don't have a professional culinary background before butchery. But yeah, I just, you know, got involved with local food. The friend at farmer's started to learn about how just kind of busted and broken the supply chain is for small producers and people looking to buy meat locally. So I did a crazy thing and decided I should learn the craft of butchery and jump off a career Clift and pursue new things to try to solve these problems. So yes, I did that.

You. I mean, you chose something that was real easy. Oh, it was crazy. Yeah. Yes. Like not not physically demanding, nor is it instantly economically rewarding. Yes, for sure. Yes. I mean, why? I used to hear stories about you know, my stepfather's Dad, it just like, I mean, punishing work being butchery is just punishing work, like carrying big sides of beef around and like, you know, cutting stuff up and moving stuff around constantly. I mean, were you expecting that when you got into it, or no, no,

definitely not. You know, I'm like a physical person. I, you know, I danced all through my childhood I, I've never been like, inactive or afraid of doing work. So I think I came into it my early 30s. And I was sort of like, bright eyed and ambitious. And I was out to solve all these problems. So it was like, let me get in there and do it. And I'm 41 now and I will admit that there's many other things where I'm just like, oh, yeah, 10 years ago, my back was up for that. And right now it is not.

Yeah, I mean, yeah. And then people want meat all the time. So it's not the kind of thing that you can Yeah, it's just I mean, the hours I remember you know, until the the day that my stepfather's dad retired the hours were just like, they were nuts. He was always he was always being a butcher no matter what and we got home he was way tired because he had been doing stuff all

day. So yeah, I mean, that's kind of the story of being a business owner you know, it's like it never sleeps and honestly in building primal because I was doing butchery you know, I learned butchery. I was running other butcher shops before I started this business. And I did try really hard to design this business to make it a little bit more, I guess, like smart and efficient labor wise, like I did carry, you know, quarters up Ufan sides of hogs on my shoulder at this last butcher shop that seem romantic and what you're supposed to do. And then I was just like, hell no, this is going to break backs, I pay workers comp all these things. So that's why I work with my slaughterhouse and they have a lot more, you know, they have like hoists, and all of these things that make it be possible to like work smarter, not harder. So we have them break our beef off the rails down into primals that are now like 30 pound pieces that you can carry around. And that that makes a lot of sense. And, you know, I'm sure that there's people that work for me or think about working for me, they're like, Oh, I, you know, I want to like know how to cut it down off the rail. And it's like, that's not really the hard part. Like all the nuance and the interesting things come later. And just trust me, I'm saving your back.

Let's talk let's, let's talk about this like, because I feel like there was there was a kind of butcher shop that my, you know, my stepfather's family ran for years and years out of Boston, you know, I mean, that doesn't really exist anymore, because that's back when a butcher could do their own slaughter. Really, you know what I mean? Like, he would go pick out the lambs. He was a lamb specialist, right? He did everything, but he was a lamb specialist. So he would go, he would know the farmer like you do, he would pick out the lambs to slaughter them, you know, do the whole whole nine, you know, try to rip rip off the other suppliers and I want to talk about like the value added and what happens with I mean, like the crazy stories, I'll tell you one later, if we have time, if you're interested in crazy old, crazy old butcher stories, I'll try to pick one that we haven't said on the air before. And, and then kind of like the butchers that I grew up with where everything was coming pre cutting cases. And you know, it was just a whole bunch of, you know, the cuts that everybody wanted and you know what I mean? So like and then but what you're doing is a kind of a newish newer model like we want to talk about this kind of resurgence of this type of poetry and how it's different from what happened in the way past versus what happened in the recent past.

Yeah, yeah. Yeah, it's definitely so the resurgence of craft poetry happened that is a thing because there was a time where you know everything got industrialized and centralized next thing you know, you know the corner butcher shop kind of went by the wayside to the grocery store which started to have the in house butcher and before you know it they're just ordering cases of cuts from you know, these factory industrial you know, meat factories and just like you know, your customers want a lot of skirt steaks you just order boxes, a skirt steaks customers want tender ones you order the tender line so so yeah, all of that it got to a point where the people in grocery stores or at the even the remaining butcher shops were just kind of meat cutters, not butchers. I guess that's like kind of a loaded thing. But that's maybe the difference there where they would know how to get cuts in proportion them but they didn't have relationship to the farms, they didn't have relationship to whole animals, they wouldn't know what to do with the side of beef if they were looking at it. And you know, I think it's been I'm trying to think like time will timeline was maybe like 15 years now since the first you know, a couple of people tried to sort of bring back the craft and open whole animal butcher shops and definitely like Josh Apple stone, you know, formerly a Fleischer's now battle stone meat company, you know, is and should be credited as kind of the one of the leaders in that resurgence. But so I kind of came up seeing these problems in the, the, you know, small food system that like the the big, all the rules, and USDA regulations being applied to them wasn't working, it was breaking it. And the model that was new but was visible to me was this, you know, new disc, the New Age craft butcher shop, people who were trying to bring back the old way. And that's what I sought out to learn and do. But as I eventually worked my way up to running a butcher shop in that model, I was like, Oh, this, this doesn't really work. But there's a reason why people move towards box meat, because there's a lot of inefficiencies in labor and time and, and all these things. So, you know, I honestly did build primalist, sort of this funny problem solution, new hybrid model of the old and the new, you know, where, you know, unfortunately, we can't harvest our own animals. There's a lot more USDA restriction and regulation about that. So I have to partner with local slaughterhouses to do that.

But I just one of the reasons my my stepfather's dad retired by the really, he's like, he's like crap on this, like, in like, 1983. Sounds about right. Yeah. He was like, he's like To hell with this good

on him. Yeah. Yeah. Cuz the craft was gone, right. Like, everybody was just kind of looking for cheaper, easier ways to do things. And so yeah, so we, you know, technically, all of those principles and sort of the way that that works is what we do, but I've kind of like shifted the labor around in the supply chain to try to just make it like, effective and efficient for us. And yeah, and that's that's what we do now. So so our meat does come to like I have the slaughterhouse break it per my instructions into kind of the first cuts like when you take whole animals and you break it down into large format parts and pieces, first, their quarters and halves, but then they become primals. That's where primal supply came from. So I can have a slaughterhouse break my B into these big primal cuts. And then it does fit on boxes and it does fit on pallets. And it's easier for us to move into trucks and it's easy for us to move around in the facility. But when my butcher is bringing into the room and they want to cut it, they still have like a lot of options and space for like how they cut and portion and utilize those things. So you know, there's, there's a lot of creative merchandising, for lack of a better term that happens where, you know, after everybody buys the two flank steaks or four skirt steaks that we get off a single beef what's next, you know, and introducing them to new cuts, things that are obvious to us, but aren't as obvious to the, to the, you know, primary consumer, or even like starting to experiment with, I wonder if this could be any good. And there's a lot of things that aren't, you know, there's a reason why there's a lot of things that look like steaks aren't steak, because people have been doing this for a long time. And they'll be in chewy, or they won't cook well. But sometimes we're able to, you know, take take one cut and change it with the season or give someone something new. I don't know we do a lot of like, a good example of that is that we sell a ton of Copa steaks, or people call them pork neck. So it's like that barrel muscle that's in the pork butt or shoulder. And, you know, typically people think of whole pork show sold there, you got to roast it or break it. And it's this, like, you know, inconvenient long time large format project to pursue. And we can take that muscle out, we can push it into space. And if you cook it the right way, like a boneless pork chop, you have something that's awesome. And I get like three or four different one pound portions to serve to my customers, which just made it go farther and gives them more quick cooking options. So yeah, it's kind of it's kind of cool. It's like, well think about what people want and try to seek and give it to them.

I mean, I noticed in your in your voice on one of the videos I saw of you that you're like, it's not the it's not that you were implying that you didn't like ribs and strips. It's just you were like, You were kind of like Come on dudes, you know what I mean? Like, like, and so you know, like, you throw out some steaks honestly that I've never even tried like baseball steak you want to like, like, I mean, I'm probably behind the times, but like, which, which like, what are these kinds of like alternative steaks that you'd like people to try now? And specifically? Like I am not me personally, I'm maybe the people listening are but I'm not interested in a substitute for a rib steak. I want something that is different and like delicious in its own right. You know what I mean? Yeah, you know, for a while we were everyone was about to try it for a while. But of course that has problems because some of them are livery some aren't, you got to cut that little weird little thing out of it. And then I used to like to meet, glue them back together because people don't want to cut through that thing and then chew it out. But anyway, so don't go ahead and give me some you know what I'm talking about?

I've done what I've actually I'm like, What are you cutting out of and tried to

try to if we were coming out of chapter one, it's got that line running down the middle, or is that a different one?

What's the chart? It's like a It's shaped like a bicycle seat. It's like a triangle muscle. Maybe we're having so the cool lap or pecan? Yeah, it's like the the cap on the top sirloin.

I'll look it up I was we got to like Google and I gotta, I gotta go. Gotta go. It's been so many years, I gotta go look up, we used to do a meat glue class. And there was a there was it wasn't an it was one of these steaks that was shaped like a Tri Tip. And then we would cut out there was a line that ran through it in the middle. Like it wasn't like between like a muscle junction it was like through the middle of the steak. And we would cut it out and glue it back together. And the same way that in a rib steak we would we used to cut the walnut out because people get pissed and we will cut and we would cut out that line have you know that? You know that line of connective tissue between the cap and the main part of the meat? And yeah, that line sometimes is nasty, and sometimes isn't. And someone actually has a question about that. So we got to get to that later. But we would, we would we would we would kind of like lift the flap off like you lift the car engine rip that thing off and then glue the flap back down.

Wow. I'm fascinated by this. I like that we're like we're kind of coming to this from opposite sides. You're like the Science Guy. And I'm kind of like a touch and feel gal you know, and me glue. Me glue is like a fascinating thing to me. I was so like, I don't sue be that'll be honest. I just don't have like a cast iron, salt and pepper. I talk a lot. I read a lot about CBT. So I can like educate and support my customers but it's just kind of not my thing. And a chef years ago, was encouraging me to use meat glue for like a pork, like a robot roast. And I was like, Dude, I don't I don't go there. Like that's not my style. He's like, no, no, it's made from plant matter. It's organic. You can do it. And I tried me blue for the first time and like my head exploded and I was like, I never want to go back. This is so perfect. But it's a slippery slope there. You know? Well

my memory just came back was blade stakes that we were

Ah, yes, yes, yes. You might actually like flat irons. They're

a that's what we were doing. Yeah. And then

kind of brilliant.

Well, okay, so I'll give you my thing on meat glue. Right I'll give you my pitch on meat glue. I'll give My pitch in general, and we'll see whether you buy this argument, not saying that it's for you, right?

I'm ready to be sold. I'm like, very right right now. So let's see what you got.

meat glue got a really bad rep. I think for bad reasons, people were using it to take, like, hacked up pieces of meat, glue them into a faux steak. And it's like a patchwork quilt. And, you know, as you know, you know, as a meat person, like that just doesn't work like that, like it does. It doesn't imitate what a real muscle does. It's not, it's not a good idea. It's terrible idea, right? Things shrink at different rates, depending on what muscle it comes from. And it's just, it's just a freaking nightmare. And also, it's dishonest, right? So I tried to and I've never been like, I never liked an argument where someone's like, oh, well, I could pretend like I bought good meat and I can buy crappy meat. No, I mean, if you can get less expensive meat and make it delicious, that that's a good idea. But if you're trying to rip someone off or pass something off, that's always a terrible idea. Right. So that's just as a as a starting point. So now, there are certain cuts of meat where I think they are delicious. But they have inherent problems from a customer perspective. So for instance, like the blade steaks got that line running down the middle grade steak, if you take out that line, he's put it in, you put it back together, and you're not, you're not like, you know, patchwork quilting it, you're just kind of doing like spot surgery on the meat or like, or like I was saying, like, you know, everyone, everyone loves a rib steak. Except for if you're going to do the, if you're going to do the big rib steak on a plate and you're going to slice it and serve it like that that line that runs through that sometimes is you know, cartilaginous and doesn't break down, not as not as pleasant. And as someone who isn't necessarily like someone who loves all of those textures isn't going to enjoy it as much. Right. Same with the walnut, you know, what I call them? I don't know what you call it. But you know, you know what I mean that

I don't have a name for it. But as soon as you said walnut, I knew exactly what you're talking about. So let's adapt that.

Yeah, anyways, so like, like, if you're just taking something like that, and, and you're doing it like kind of upfront. And you're saying this is what I'm doing, then. And you tell people that you've done it, because of course, as soon as your knife goes into that piece of meat, it's now contaminated, right? So you have to let people know you've done it, because you know, you've done it. Anyway, so I think

like this is also like the setting situation where you're talking about doing this in a restaurant context, right, where you're trying to cook meat, and then serve someone and have them have a perfect eating experience. Right. Whereas like I do, so I do work with chefs, I love working with chefs, but I've kind of tried to, I try to learn about their cooking style and what their menu is and then appropriately sell the right cuts into it. Like if they if they have a concept in mind. And something that they would want to use, maybe there's not enough of them on an animal like it's like, you know, if you're going to ask me a hanger steak, we can't do it. But maybe I might talk to you about using a bavette or even like a Denver steak or something that's going to have that loose grain texture that we will get a higher yield off the animal. So that's that's kind of like as far as I go with chefs. And then I kind of put it in their hands and let them do their magic. And it's pretty fun for me to then go and sit at the table on the other side and see what they did. But I spent a ton of time really cutting meat and selling meat to home cooks. And I my safest assumption is to just kind of like assume that everyone is just a mediocre cook at best and try to do everything to set them up for success. Because even things like, you know, it's might seem like there's some obvious way to cut a portion of steak. But the way in which we cut it, and presented to them is going to guide how they then you know, cut it and slice it when they cook it. So you know, it is actually really important that you're you're, you know, like you're slicing and portioning a steak so that the grain when they look at it and have a natural instinct about how to deal with it, that they're gonna, like, follow and cut across the grain, or like the way that we tie things, or even portioned them and kind of the importance of how, you know, when people when butchers are learning and training and they can't, it's not that easy to kind of flat steak to be honest, like it takes a lot of practice to not watch them and have them be exactly especially as they're bigger, you know, an inch and a half thick from end to end. Because even like a tiny little slip up where it's an eighth of an inch or a quarter of an inch thicker on one end to the other is going to set somebody up. So one side overcooks on one side under cooks. So there's just like a lot of that that we go into thinking so this I'm so fascinated by the blade steak thing. So the flat iron is one of the coolest muscles in the beef. Because it is it's a tap to the scapula like the shoulder blade. So like, if you've listened to things from me before, it sounds like you have like, you know, I love to talk about what muscles do in live animals because that's what affects the flavor, the texture, the way they cook, like all the things that we experience as cooks and eaters. And so, you know, the more active muscles are the more they taste amazing, but all that activity you know, builds up things that are Probably not pleasant in your mouth like connective tissue and sinew and all that. So the shoulder obviously, you know, these animals walking on all fours leading with the front of their body, active part of the animal, that's the chuck in the beef. That's where all the flavor is. So the flat iron is the shoulder blade is deep within the shoulder, and it moves with every step. But the flat iron is like attached to it like it's bone skin, we call it like you peel it off. So that muscle does not move independently, it's just kind of stuck to the shoulder blade. And as the shoulder blade moves, the muscle moves, but it doesn't have to expand and contract to do that. So it's one of the most tender muscles in the beef, like after tenure line or fillet. Flat Iron is like Go for it. It's so incredibly flavorful because of that activity or surrounding it. But it doesn't do a lot of work itself. So it's going to be melt in your mouth tender. But it's like this thick muscle. And there's this terrible, inedible seam that runs through it, that's so tough. And what we do is we like you're playing a fish, you know, like you're flying, you know, the skin or like muscle off of off of one side of a fish use away that that muscle off of that sinew, so you end up with two long, thin steaks. Any butcher can tell you that no matter how long we've been butchering, for, no matter how much you practice, this is not that easy to do. Because that sinewy seam is like it's not perfectly flat, it kind of like bends and changes and following it with your knife and not leaving meat behind is not easy to do.

And it also doesn't separate easily like a silver scan or something. No, no, no,

not at all. Like it doesn't Yeah, it doesn't peel easily. It's not that easy to follow with your knife. So it's like it takes some real practice to perfectly like fillet off those two muscles off of that center seam and not leave a ton of trim and like, you know, guilt. Can I say that family show sorry. ruin your yield. So, so yeah, so it takes a ton of practice to get a clean state that you haven't hacked into the haven't left trim behind. And it's just not awesome. And I remember the first time that I was like in charge of a butcher shop, I was thinking like, maybe we'll maybe we'll sell them and cut them this way instead of this way. And I learned about the blade stakes, as you call them. I call them feather stakes, because that's kind of what they look like when their portion with that seam running down the middle. I was like, Ah, I've cracked the nut. This is so much faster, it's so much easier. We don't lose trim, they look pretty. We're never selling flat irons again, like Blade stakes, feather states won the war. So I was selling them out of my case. And then I had a customer come back to me and say, Hey, so I bought one of those feathers, steaks. And it was the worst steak I've ever had. It's just being so like, this was a cook that was really talking to me like he wasn't complaining, you know, in just sort of like an unhappy customer way. And he's like, there was these incredibly delicious tender bites. But that stuff in the middle was just there's so much of it. And I left it all behind on my plate and it felt terrible. And I just like, I could just empathize with this experience and be like, Oh, that's that sucked. I'm never doing this again. So now I've come full circle, and I'm all pro flat iron. And we do that every time. But I watch my butchers do it. I do it. Like it's just terrible. It's so I don't know, I'm thinking about your meat glue to bring this back in this context. And she says it's like corrective surgery and you still got this beautiful tender cut that you've just taken out that will offend her the middle.

I can tell you that. It's delicious. Yeah, I used to do it as part that was one of the in when we taught me glue classes. Now this was in 20 I don't know 11 or something. Yeah, back when we were teaching meat glue classes, like that's one of the ones that we did, because those steaks were also I don't know how what they cause now, but they were not that expensive. Yeah. And yeah, because what you know, like from a, you know, butchers perspective is different necessarily from like a cooks versus a customer's perspective. Right. So like, I know from watching my family eat things that I've made. And you know, the students back and we were teaching them that once you sear off a steak, it's real hard to necessarily see where are those tough lines are so you can't even it's hard to do the surgery at your plate sometimes if you're not paying attention and most people are talking and like drinking their wine or whatever and so they just cross cut, they're using a sharp knife because everyone hands you a sharp knife when you're so it's not like you know you can tell based on your knife, they'll cross cut notice put the whole dang thing in their mouth and people aren't like used to having to like people aren't used to having to follow muscle lines on their own plate. You know what I mean? So you know and like if you're doing it for yourself, you would know that and you wouldn't just slice across that thing and eat it but it's very hard education problem anyways,

yeah, I mean even like selling someone so I love to sell bones in meat. I mean it's just like there's there's multiple reasons for it like from a yield and profit standpoint, it makes a whole lot of sense for me to you know, sell the bone with the meat not have it be something that I separate out and give the customer all the muscle and keep the bone for me to deal with and then you know There goes the weight and I buy whole animals and then a lot of contacts, you know, Bones sort of improved give like some structural integrity or in a long cooking situation as flavored, all the rest so I like to sell bone in New York strips. Why not, you know, the like Shell steaks essentially, I think they're cool. They present well, they cook kind of nice. They cook nicely and but I can't tell you how many times I've had a conversation with someone over the counter Ron visibly holding up the steak and trying to show them. So when you finish cooking this, you know, you're going to take your knife, you're gonna slice along here to take the whole muscle off of the bone. And then you could cross cut and slice this thing on your plate. And to anybody who cooks regularly, that doesn't seem like a very hard thing to do. But you'd be surprised how many home cooks out there have never just cut the ribeye off the bone or the New York strip off the bone before they then slice it and serve it. And they're up for it. But it's like, you know, you really got to like I said, you got to do some coaching, you got to kind of set them up for success. And it's a funny conversation where someone's like, Well, do you have any boneless New York strips? And I'm like, Well, I can make anything boneless. I'll do it for you. But you want to

price Yeah, same price anyway,

does that make them more expensive? So

but question in the chat is sort of about like how you counsel novice share your chef's. Chef Joanna asks, is there an EASY Quote unquote trick to tell home cooks? How to choose the right cut when the thing listed in the recipe is unavailable? Oh,

I mean, that's a great question. I don't know that there's necessarily like a trick for that it really just is being knowledgeable. I mean, that's kind of my job as a butcher, to be honest, to be knowledgeable about how different muscles will cook and behave. And then to make the appropriate substitute. So like, mainly, I have kind of my series of questions that I will ask people to try to hone in, you know, if they give me a recipe, I could just tell them what the answer is. But it's like, okay, are you looking? Are you braising? Are you smoking, you know, you're cooking slow or fast? And then let's say that we're just talking about a steak. So what were they after? Like, if they're asking me for a flank steak, for example? It's like, Well, was it the long grain and the quick cooking, you know, thin fineness about it? Or was it that's incredibly lean muscle? You know, because I could recommend something else that would look the same, and it might be fattier. So it's really just kind of like, the cooking technique. And then I think more if, like I said, if the fat or the sort of muscle grain because there's kind of these like smooth, dense steaks, you know, like, top sirloins, New York strips, things like that. And then there's those ones that have kind of, like, looser, longer grain, like a, like a flank, or a skirt, or above that. And to me, those are apples and oranges. So, you know, that's, that's kind of the thing, I guess, like, what's the end goal? And what are what are they trying to get out of it?

Right, but if you were matched, if you were matching someone's recipe, like, Would you would you match more on flavor? Or more on texture? Or would you match? Like, like, where would you? Where would you match first?

Yeah, I guess, I guess for a recipe I would be looking for, like the cook process. So I'd probably say that, you know, like, how, like, how long or what temperature is it telling you to cook this so that we could sub it in and they would have the same result? Right? Saying three to four minutes aside, and this is going to happen, then I want to I want to sub something. And it's going to behave the same way in process, if someone doesn't have a recipe, and they're just kind of chatting about like, this is what I'm in the mood for for dinner, then I think I could go a little bit more with like a flavor texture match, because I could chat with them about adjusting to the cook timer process?

Well, because then and I think the reason this is important is because like a lot of especially people, you know, that I deal with, like on on this show and like in life, are really interested in things that they read from all over the world, they can't necessarily get them right. And some of them are becoming more popular. So for instance, like, you know, a couple of months ago, everyone was asking pecan up economy, kind of the kind of guy and like they couldn't get it. So like, you know, I'm sure now like the, you know, the butcher shops like yours, you could deliver that, but what should they if that particular one, what should they get if they want it or like that? But like, is it? Like, can you get it cut the same? Because it's got that they leave the does it cut exactly the same way with the fat fat cap left on it and everything are? Yeah,

I mean, well, that's that's one of those examples where there is actually like a comparable muscle and it's kind of nice to say have you had this well, then you could try this. And I do that with the Coolatta Konya, which is like the same muscle or the Tri Tip, to me, those are kind of interchangeable because they're both on the outside of the animal. Like they kind of come from the hip, they're on the outside. So they're both kind of have that exterior fat cap. They're sort of a similar size and thickness. So if you're following a recipe and it's giving you like a cook time, it's going to behave pretty similarly. And I actually think like fat and texture muscle fiber wise they're pretty similar. So that's, that's kind of an easy one. But it's like, you know, the most obvious example is like we just went through your Passover and everybody wants brisket and even though I, at this point, buy a decent amount of beef, there's still only so much brisket to go around. So So then you have people coming in looking to utilize those recipes or do those same processes. So then you can kind of go through it down these steps of like, okay, so Well, obviously you're looking to do you're looking into your your grandma's brisket recipes, you're looking to slowly braid some beef. So how much do you care that it's boneless, because if it is, then I'm probably going to recommend that maybe you use a chuck roast or possibly even like boneless short ribs, which we cut from the chuck flat. If you're not so tied to that, then personally, I would sort of jump ship and go to like, why don't you do some some actual bone and short ribs or maybe try some like cross cut beef Shanks or something like that. So it's kind of like, you know, what's the most important to them? Like? Do they want just one big bonus piece of meat that they can like slice and serve? Because then we can't go to something that's going to have to be an individual portion like a bone in short, red? So yeah, there's just like, there's so many questions. It's like, and goal process, I guess, really, the best thing is to figure out to that person, like, what thing Do they know how to do, and what thing they do are they are they going to like, if they're an intuitive Cook, and they're cool with like, improving on a recipe where you could I could give them some pointers about this is just going to take 30 minutes longer, or you're going to do this to it, you know, that then I can like substitute a little bit more freely. If they seem like they're really going to need to lean on that recipe, then I'm going to really need to think about somebody that's going to behave the same. And steaks are like a little like, I think the larger format stuff is a little easier to sub around. The stakes are a little bit more nuanced. And you only have a couple minutes of cooking time. So you really got to get get it right.

Right. So going back to something you just mentioned, the truck the truck rose Chuck is so freakin complicated that I could never wrap my head around the truck route, especially because I tend to do a lot of tests on like low temperature cvwd work. And like, all the muscles in that son of a gun are so different from each other that when you're actually trying to focus, it's just, it's just too complicated for me. And that's why I guess I never I never, almost never use it just because I'm like, oh, like I'll use it cubed up as stew meat or I'll do it in like standard braces, but like actually using those muscles to me is because I can't remember like I can't remember like what it. So what percentage of your things like Chuck, do you leave as that big complicated mess? And what percentage do you break down into like individual things that you know, that are that I can learn the individual properties of?

Yeah, so that's this is a perfect question. Okay, this is like one of these things where I would love to set you up for success. Because when I was training, butchery, and I was I worked at this butcher shop in Berkeley. And the way that we sold chucks was that we took a whole chunk, which is basically like the top half of the shoulder, it's a sub primal, the shoulder, it's the equivalent of like the Boston button, a beef. And there's a lot going on there, you're talking all the way from the neck to like the fifth rib. And from the top of the back kind of down to the arm. So so much activity, so many, so many muscles. And the way that we used to sell them is that we would take the bones out, and then roll that whole thing up into this big boneless roast that then we would slice into like big round for pound chuck roast portions. And the only thing that you could do with that was really like slow and low braise it to till it was fall apart tender. Because some of the tough muscles were incorporated in there. So you really couldn't do like a gentle roast with it. And yeah, like you said, there's just there's too many different muscles that behave different ways that if you wanted to kind of cook them to more specific, I don't know, like process or end result, you're not going to have it. So for us, I have my processor, break my Big Beef shoulder into the chuck and the clods that's like the kind of the top half and the lower half it would be the butt or the picnic and a pork I feel like a lot of people have some poor co animal knowledge and sometimes that's an easier thing to equate it to. So we get back these whole boneless chucks, which is all those muscles. And we actually intentionally break them into three. And this is after there's there's a couple of external muscles that are involved in it and you take those all off, but you're looking at that like giant boneless Chuck roll. We separate it into three different things. So the chuck under blade is this nice, thick flat muscle that's technically I guess, sorry, my brain is trying to follow this in my in my eyes. The chuck underlaid is kind of like that outer muscle and it's big and thick and flat. And we can separate that off. And then you have the actual Chuck eye, right? That's the that would be the Coppa in the pork shoulder or it's really a continuation of that ribeye muscle kind of moving forward into the shoulder. And that is what we tie into a chuck roast. Because that eye muscle is actually a little bit more specific, a little bit more tender and you could braise it but you could actually just like slow roast it and slice it and have like beautiful tender chuck roast. And then we separate off the neck because the neck is the hardest working part of the shoulder. Like if you think about the fact that these animals work, walk around on all fours and they spend all day every day holding their head up. That is so hard working, and that we cube into like a fatty, you know Borg and yawns do cube, or we will sometimes tie them into rows, but they are very specifically like chop rows for you tell me that you want to do like a pot roast Pulled Beef situation, like there's no way that you're going to roast and slice that I would never sell you that for for roasting, if that makes sense. And so even just those, those three things make a pretty big difference. So the underplayed the first one I mentioned, that is often used for boneless short ribs, they're not really short ribs, they just kind of get made to look the same. But that's also something that if we completely like denuded of all the sinew on the outside and get down to the just the whole muscle, and it's maybe it's shaped like a rectangle, it's depending on the size of the beef itself. It's maybe like two inches thick, and it's a, you know, let's call it like eight by 12 is at the size of a sheet of paper. And you can across the grain, slice that into steaks, which is that's what we call Denver steaks. And it doesn't make any sense in your mind why something that comes from that hard working shoulder would be something that you could quick see a couple minutes aside and have a nice eating experience, but you do and we love them. And like our customers love them, they kind of eat a little bit like maybe a hanger or something like that, where you kind of have like that, that interesting like texture and chew and you've got shoulder flavor. So that's like said, this is one of these situations where you take a big, big, complicated, like muscle group, like a truck roll and separate it into three different pieces. And now I can really customize and give my customers like really specific things that have if you use them in a certain way, you're going to have a really predictable result.

Just that's awesome. What's the what's the name of the whole thing that you take off again?

So starting with a truck roll, you would separate the truck flap or under blade

under under blade. That's right word under blades a great word it is. You know, it's not a great word, Claude.

There's so many bad words there really are.

That's when the Stasi calls me when we're not on the air. Yes.

My favorite like poorly named thing is I'm guessing you're familiar with bavette. Totally underside of the animal, right comes from like belly flap, animal part of the animal. And it's sometimes it's just called flap meat, like flap meat. And it's this beautiful state. It's sometimes called the sirloin flat, but we refer to it as Babette and yes, that takes an explanation because it's a French word, but it's as beautiful as the steak is

that John Does that mean flap in French? It means drool.

This is really interesting. someone on my staff who speak some French said that it translated to bib. And it's kind of like the shape of a baby bed. But that would maybe make sense about drool. Yeah,

that's, that's pretty hardcore. So I like something that is delicious. That sounds like garbage in every language. Yes. That's great.

Like, like head cheese.

Yeah, cheese doesn't sound good. Because head cheese sounds like toe cheese coming out of your head. Yeah, who wants to cheese coming out of your head? It sounds like earwax or something. It's awful. Anyway,

we have the same feelings about that.

Right? So just a note of NA, since you said that you're not into suevey Low Temp one of the problems, I think people don't necessarily wrap their head around when they're doing low temp Sudeep is that if you take a multi muscle cut where some of the muscles are. So if you take if you take something like a short rib, which is relative, I know it's like but relatively uniform in the amount of connective tissue like throughout the pieces that you're cooking. And you low temp it what happens is is that it gets tender, but the the college interns to gelatin, but it doesn't render out. And because it doesn't permeate the meat, it stays in place thing, right. But here's the downside. So like, I'll move it to a different one and ask you this question. So that when you're doing like a pork belly, right? I've never pinpointed it but there's one muscle in the pork belly that doesn't have a lot of connective tissue in it. And so when you load template, it's always drier and string year than the rest of the of the pork belly. Yeah. And you low temp it and so I don't know what that muscle is or how to avoid it. If I know I'm going to do low temp, maybe maybe you can tell me, that's awesome. But that's the problem with doing low temp on something like so I was like, I'm gonna take I'm gonna take a truck, you know, a truck rolls like this slicing thing. I'm gonna load template for like three days and come on. First of all, it's going to turn to mush most of it anyway because that's too long. But even so some of those muscles are really nasty than eating on their own because there's no cross talk of the gelatin after it renders just as a little Yeah.

This is so interesting. Okay, so I will say like, I just I'm not a sushi Cook, because it's just I don't plan ahead. It's one of those So, in cooking, I'm like that person that can't start the project that day ahead of time just won't ever happen for me. And I don't know, I really, I'm fascinated by it, I love to learn about it, I love to talk to people about it, because I get it conceptually, I'm just not that practiced at it. And I'm just, I'm really a home cook. And I think it's cool and fun to do it at home. But I really understand how it can be helpful in like, you know, larger format, sort of restaurant capacity anyway. So the, it's really funny that you just made that comparison, because you know that the short ribs are essentially the same thing as pork belly, we just despair ribs, we've taken them off the valley that we've separated, those are the two things, but really the plate ribs, which is the what we call the beef short, but more traditional beef short ribs, is really the front half of the belly. If the spare ribs are still on on a pig, which is why you like that forward part of the pork belly, I'm guessing that the part that you're saying is kind of dry and not that good as as the rear part of the belly kind of tapers into the sirloin of beef, that would be where we call it where we pull the flank steak and above it and stuff out. But we don't do that on pork, we just use the whole pork belly. Really, the front two thirds are still going to have that kind of illustration of muscle and fat and behave more like a short rib. And then that rear third is starting to transition into lean muscles like a flank is a completely lean muscle. And that fat is sort of starting to go away. And it behaves very differently. So I think if you're going to sue the pork belly, you need to tell your butcher that you really want the piece the portion to come from like the front rib and on the belly and not from the rear sirloin end of the belly.

These are good tips. And what about those cartilage fingers that run through it?

Oh, yeah, they're like low rent to those shouldn't be on there. I mean, that should that should come off real, you know, the belly primal. All it is is like, we break the belly off of the top loin section, and it's got ribs laying on it. So you remove those all with your knife. I like to do St. Louis style spare ribs. So that means that we take all the ribs off the belly. And then at the point where the actual bones themselves have the joint into that soft little cartilage rib tip piece you just cut across and your your your spare ribs themselves only have bone and then those rib tips become something separate. Some people like to cook those that's like a thing. I definitely I don't mind the eating experience. But I think the average person gets a little thrown off by these weird soft things that you can maybe chew or not. And I to us, we just separate those off, we trip off all the meat the little rib tips go on the stock pot and we just we keep them out of the customer experience.

Now let me let me get out because I had some people that ask questions want to make sure they tweeted them in I promised I would ask you these questions from Ryan Briggs via Twitter was very glad that you're gonna be on considers this lucky for Easter. They did two, they did two three rib roasts, which actually I think are a nice, it's a nice size for home. So if you're gonna put together two of them, why not just do whatever whatever. To my untrained eye, they looked very similar when we cut them one was shot through with cartilage. I guess we talked about this a little bit earlier, I think and the other was all muscle both tasted good. But the former was harder to cut when on the plate and the texture slash mouthfeel was worse. What's going on? Is there some way to discern which cuts are likely to be like this when examining meat at the grocery store? Alternatively, is there a good way to avoid this if I talk to a butcher? appreciate any advice? Thanks, Ryan from Toronto, by the way.

Oh, okay. So yeah, I think this actually probably goes back to your Converse that your your point about the ribs, steaks and meat glue earlier. I'm going to so my number one advice is go talk to a butcher. Because things like this are the difference between chopping from a butcher who's going to be more knowledgeable about the cuts and hopefully be able to customize a little bit towards your needs rather than chopping off of a grocery store shelf where everything is just pre cut and you know, to the untrained eye, you might not notice something like that. I'm going to guess so. Okay. The ribs section which we break out of that centerline of the beef is at most seven bones long. So we cut the rib you break you break the shoulder from the rib loin between the fifth and sixth rib that right yeah, there's 13 ribs right so you the five ribs stay on the shoulder. The next seven become the rib loin. And that so seven bones is the most you can have. If they bought two three bone rib roasts, it is very possible I'm gonna say this took me a minute to I didn't process this earlier but I think our conversation helped. Maybe the butcher started with a seven bone rib roast. And they more or less cut it in half to create two three bone rib rows and that's what that person bought. So that would mean that the the section that was the front part of the rib as it's transitioning into the shoulder and starts to have other muscles grow up around it like the walnut, red cap and other like a little bit more connective, you know slightly sinewy things. You know, those those real shoulder your rib eyes as I like to call them is there way different than the rear half of the red line where it's starting to transition into like the center line or strip line. And, and the loin eye is getting bigger, and some of those connective support muscles are starting to fall away. So I'm gonna guess that they really prefer the eating experience of the strip line where you have that one sort of more tender, larger, consistent muscle and not all those support things against around it. And they're not really huge fans of the, you know, sort of Chuck and of the rib, I should just tell you that I know we're talking with our voices, I'm making so many expressions, but to try to explain this, like, but a quick Google would, would show you, you know, the sort of one of those cut marks and a cow. And that rib section, you can see how it's, you know, starts closer to the shoulder, the head and it continues to the middle.

So when I'm looking at steaks at, you know, at, hopefully at a butcher, but most of us, you know, don't necessarily get lucky at a supermarket, like, you know, you'll notice you notice when you're looking between what I call it, the cap, I don't know what you call it on a ribeye and some have much more of that you can see it that gray, that gray kind of cartilage G connective tissue that you know, is not going to render or go away. And some doesn't is that just based on its position? Or is that also cow to cow

it a little bit of both, but it's going to be more of the anatomy for sure. Because the rib is the rib is actually like a very transitional section of the beef. Because that that short line, which is where the New York strip comes out of and that the tenderloin is in it is like the center middle of the back. If you think about the idea, if we crawled around on all fours all day, you know, our backs would not work that's like the muscle that holds you know, we stand up tall, right so that the muscles running on

our back support us from and and all day, not me my posture.

My to I actually am a really bad Hunter. But if we crawled around all day, they wouldn't work very hard, right. So that center of the back is one of the less active more tender parts of the beef. But as you move forward on its back towards its shoulders, which leads to walk with, you know, every single step that works. That rib is really connected to that. So just a lot of you know, other hard working muscles and that sort of like like said that kind of sin, you connective, things grow up in there to support all that activity. And that's what ends up in your roast. I mean, the real thing is like, my cooking tips to rib roast is that you really got to cook those things low and slow. Like a hot fast roast, you could do it on a strip one. But on a ribeye. If you want all that fat and stuff to melt and actually taste good, you got to take your time. Yeah,

I again, if you have the meat glue, if you have the meat glue, and you have the whole section of like, you know, however many ribs you buy, you can you can with a knife, carefully peel back that cap, like all the way all the way down to where it joins what would have been that bone that you normally take off, you know what I'm talking about. And then take like, you can see that the stuff that's nasty, then you can rip that off. And then if you want you can also peel in and like take out the fat walnut area, render that out, use it to make Yorkshire pudding, definitely don't throw it away, then roll that whole sucker back together, let it sit for four hours before you do anything, and you're good to go. Again, that's not saying to do it at the shop, but I'm just saying like I have done this. And people they love it. You know what I mean? Like, they love it.

And I get that it's super interesting, like the ribs section. So we only really get, I like to cut my rib eyes an inch and a half thick. Just kind of like I think that's a nice, successful thickness. It's not too thin that they're gonna quit cook too fast on you, not too thick that it's gonna be challenging to consistently cook them through it a pan, and you get about give or take about eight rip off of the beef. The size of beef that I'm raising, I get about eight rib eyes, that's not that many. And from end to end, the first one that you cut from the rib that's closer to the chuck section looks like a chuck steak. I mean, it's crazy. There's all these, you know, string strips of fat and other muscles and things wrapping all around it. And then the eighth ribeye, that's the last one before you get into the short loin looks like in New York Strip on a rib bone. They're just they're so different. And it's the same thing on pigs, the pork chops. So that's, it's kind of fun. And you know to counter. If you have a relationship with a butcher, they might actually say to you, you know, I would say to someone oh, what's your? What's your style? Like, you know, do you like them? Do you like something a little more fatty? Are you interested in kind of chewing for flavor, or do you want a nice, tender, consistent end to end eating experience? So

do you mind in other words, do you mind by the way, John wasn't saying no to you? Yeah, yeah. Stop that stop selling customers what they want, like so in other words, like do you feel that there is a customer who wants each part or do you feel a little bit guilty selling Like the good part to this person? And the Oh no, I

told I totally think I mean, in this context, I think there's definitely the person who wants both parts. I mean, I like the chuck the chuck ribs, but I, the chuck rib steaks, but I will really, I tend to cook them a little low and slow, just kind of get a good Brown at the end so that all that fat melts, and then you asked me about it being animal to animal. That's another thing like genetics and diet will really play into these things. You know, certain certain breeds are predisposed to have for the muscles are different, like texturally, whether they even a muscle that should be tender. The level of tenderness and sort of the tightness of that muscle fiber and the way that it grows and develops between different breeds will be different. Some, yeah, some breeds are like predisposed to, you know, for inter muscular marbling, inter muscular fat, which we call marbling. So those things really do make a difference. And, you know, that's not something hopefully, your butcher or whoever sourcing that meat has some knowledge about that it is, you know, kind of working with farmers that are that are giving you you know, well marbled, tender beef,

but Right, but some of it's complicated. I mean, some of its, I mean, like, I've read studies where, you know, industrial studies where it, you know, it's difficult for them to determine, you know, even at an industrial level, from cow to cow, some things are just going to be different, like, you know, for a long time, because low temperature cooking when you're cooking for a long time, some some cuts, I'm looking at you any cut from the round, will like some will go intensely kind of livery, that metallic livery taste, and some won't. And so it's like this off flavor that even industrially, they haven't been able to figure out how to pinpoint exactly when it's going to happen and when it isn't, but that's one of the reasons that for like, low temp work, I stay away from the round. And in fact, I tried to stay like What's that stuff? What's the rounds? Beef jerky, BBB?

Yeah, I mean, rounds are just like, let me tell you as a whole animal butcher, it is such a high yield part of the animal, like their legs are big and heavy. And all these muscles, they're all the same. They're these lean muscles that don't have a ton of intramuscular fat, they're active, you know. So they're, they're kind of tough, but they don't really render tender, because there isn't anything to melt in between them. It's like, it's hard. It's hard for us to use them. Because I don't want them to just all end up in trim and ground beef. That's too much. And people you know, you can only get people to eat so many London Broyles. I mean, I do think that a top brown makes a really beautiful roast beef. If you're doing it in a setting where you have the ability to like use a slicer and slice it thin. Because you can you can cook that through to a pretty beautiful, rare bid rare, there isn't a lot of like, you know, there's nothing like sinewy or, you know, unpleasant in it. And then if you can slice it thin enough that you don't really mind that it's not that tender, it makes an awesome roast beef. But for home cooks, that's not that easy to do. And yeah, it's like those those steaks are just not that interesting. We make in in colder seasons, I do like lean Scoobies personally, for my customers, if you're not trying to make an organ yawn or something like that, where you're going for fatty stew, I think the average person doesn't want to cook us do and then have to let it cool and skim like inches of fat off the top. So you know, if you're really gentle, and you you kind of give it the time to, to kind of cook and break down and become tender. I do think that leans to beef is a thing that can be successful. But your rounds are rounds are so hard. But back, that's your thing about like the industry, even in an industrial setting where they can control a lot of things, you know, like they have a ton of control over their breeding and feeding of these animals, you still have to remember that they're beings, you know, it's just like people like you and your sibling, could genetically, you know, be so similar in your DNA and you could be so physically different, like, you know, one of you builds muscle really easily and is kind of like, you know, athletic, ly inclined and the other person does not or you're everything from your temperament like your appetite or how physical you'd like to be or how you respond to stress or extra external things. Those are all really individual from person to person or animal to animal and they will all affect meat.

All right, I got this from BART. I got I gotta get I gotta seize. I got from Barbara Benson via Twitter. My new organic butcher is a good old boy, who I'd like to turn on to Chinese cuts of meats. The cuts in my Asian market are so interesting, but his meat is better. What's a good resource to help these two people, the butcher and Barbara come together on this?

Oh, this is such a good question. I wish I had an obvious answer for the resource. I wish this person was my customer and they wanted to walk into my shop and tell me what their cuts were. I mean, if the good old boy is a whole animal butcher, he should really be able to cut anything. So I think it's just a question of, you know, finding some recipe like going online and finding some recipes or looking for what those cuts are. And I always just tell people, like bring me your recipes Sounds like this person is having a dialogue with someone at a counter. If you were to bring me a recipe and show it to me, they might be calling something by a different name, but I could probably Google it or I could, you know, look at what the process is and make a recommendation. I do have some customers, I've had customers over the years that are doing more like traditional Chinese dishes and asking me for things that I wouldn't normally cut. And I love it.

Yeah, started dialogue. Bring your bring your smartphone.

Yeah, yeah, bring bring your smartphone exactly, like just kind of look at it over the counter. But yeah,

I've done I've done the reverse. I've gone to butcher shops, Asian butcher stores in Chinatown where I live, and tried to get like weird things from them and had them actually laughed me out of the store when I finally got the translation, right.

Try to get out of curiosity.

So remember, like years and years ago on the original Japanese Iron Chef there someone was using, I think it was pig bladder as an unpopular kind of a situation. And I was trying to find any source. So like, I was going to stores that I knew were illegally selling pig blood. And I was like, these people are catering to their customers. Regardless of the laws. I was like sight, you know what I mean? I was like, maybe I can get the same way that my old Italian butcher when I used to live in, in the garment district, like he could get me lungs to make like some freak like, my like my father in law used to have when he was a kid hearts and lungs. And and you know, he knew me so he would you know, he could get it you know what I'm saying? But anyway, so yeah, there were like when I finally got the right translations for PayPal address, they just laughed at me and kicked me out.

Yeah, the USDA won't let us have any of that stuff. You gotta like, know someone who has, you know, the inside tip to get it or you need to know people who are farming and harvesting animals where they can just save them on farm.

So speaking of that, like awful stuff, like you only get like six beef hearts a week. What do you do with that?

I like it when people want to cook them. I definitely try to encourage that happening because I love heart. I think it's so good raw are rare. You know, there's like a lot of traditional dishes from around the world that are like you know, marinade click sear heart. I love heart tar tar. Because I love to use I love to use more active muscles for tar tar like I don't like it to be motion my mouth. I like it to have a bit of chew. So I think that's really nice. But if we don't sell the hearts hole or portion to people, we make a beef and beef heart grind, which is really cool. Like a 5050 blend of our trim plus beef heart. So it's like a really iron forward. It's like eating ground up hanger steak. It's got

Detroit chili bass right now they've been part chili.

See you learn something every day. I have customers when I was in Berkeley, I had customers come to me all the time trying to figure out how to sneak organ meats into like their kids diet and they were doing disgusting stuff. Like once somebody wants asked me to grind liver into a sippy cup.

Please don't do that to your children.

will remember old school old old school like oh, like my grandma's generation like you push liver into kids mouths. Like eat the liver. You know what I mean? Like, yeah,

there's some people who are still trying to do it. I'm like, You're gonna ruin them for life for something that could be good. So I started recommending this like 5050 beef heart grind as a palatable and I think delicious alternative to getting more like organ meats and iron dense stuff and a grind. So now we do that all the time. And we also make a pet food like a raw pet food grind where we'll use like fresh beef plus Oh, for meats and grabbed it for people on with dogs on raw diets, which is cool, but it's kind of sucks too, because that's really just because enough people are eating the overalls that were like, well, maybe they'll feed them for their pets.

What so do you take all of your like, I know you have trim, which is useful. And then you have quote unquote waste is a waste go to like dog food.

So our waste, if my processors have relationships with we all work with rendering companies that are able to take our meat waste and turn it into like, you know, upcycle second use products in the praat in the slaughterhouse setting where they're breaking our beef initially, most of them have relationships with rendering companies where they're producing enough, you know, quote, unquote, waste that it can be picked up fresh every day and used for like pet food and secondary edible products. For me, we don't quite produce enough waste and I actually pay the rendering company to take my stuff away, like they don't pay me for it. I just kind of do it to be responsible and keep it out of you know, like not just throw it into landfills and make sure we're using it in some way. So I pay for rendering and it comes weekly. So what we do is we we say that it is refrigerator we keep it nice ish. But ours all goes to like secondary use. I've actually looked up where what it goes to and it's kind of interesting. The list is is fascinating like you think like makeup but it's really like explosives and like glue products and other things but what

rendering rendering external trim beef that is so nasty. Yeah, smelling it is just so nasty to me I mean I don't know like by the way if you want tallow real render good stuff you guys sell it which is awesome I only ever see lard in my neighborhood I never see the tallow in a pints

Awesome. Yeah, I will tell I will say that the difference between so my main saying primal to it's important to note that like we I only work with farmers that are raising fully pasture raised and in the instance of like beef, lamb goat that are ruminants that they're fully grass fed. So all of our beef is 100% grass fed. And I think that fat is the most telling thing in the diet of an animal if you are not really that accustomed to grass fed versus like you know, kind of more commodity or grain finished beef and you want to taste the difference. You really want to taste fat, the the meat will taste different but the like I think that the fat from corn fed sort of you know traditional industrial beef to me tastes like cardboard it's just like so flat there's really there's no nuance to the diet of that animal so you're not going to taste it in the fat itself it's just going to be kind of flat on a waxy it's not going to be it's not going to melt even that nice. The grass the grass fed beef or like the pasture is pork fat is really complex and flavorful. It tastes like grass and the variety of that diet and it tends to have a softer just I think more palatable texture when it's rendered and it melts and I don't know I think that like to us the smell of rendering beef fat into tallow is just like just smells like burgers all day.

It's because you don't render the nasty stuff Yeah, we

send that to the rendering plant.

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we have to go in like five minutes. But I have another question from chat that I left here. Elda ask you. Van Groff asks, at various times over the years the price of certain cuts of meat have gone from inexpensive to not so inexpensive in some cases pricing out the communities that once enjoyed them. I'm thinking oxtail, lamb shank skirt, steak, and even chicken wings. Since you birch butcher, whole animals, you sell everything with what cuts are currently on the upswing, and which ones if any, are dropping in price?

Yeah, this is the market demand is just so fascinating, to be honest. And that's really what drives pricing. And even as much as I'm able to, in some instances equalize the price of our meat because we buy whole animals, I still need to at the end of the day, it's like people will still pay more for rib eyes and they'll pay less for Linda Broyles. And I you know, we need to sort of, we need to kind of get back like a blended profit off the whole animal. So I still sort of follow market demand, even in our whole animal pricing. And the reason why a lot of those things were cut were cheap in the past was because people didn't know what to do with them. And they were hard to use an inconvenient you know, it's like Americans really value convenience, right? We want quick cooking tender stuff we don't want to take all day and and use the cheap off cuts that are delicious, if you're willing to like, you know, take the time to make them that way. And it's like the the upside is that people have gotten more educated about the idea that some of those things are delicious. We have a lot of tools at our disposal like sushi and instant pots but make it more approachable to do those things. So really, as you know, there's just there's more demand overall in the market. People want more options, more cuts, those things are the demand is is really just increasing the market value of them and pricing people out. And it's just, you know, price is always kind of a loaded topic too, because ultimately, like all meat should cost more. Really, it's like people at the end, if people really would eat ox tails and all those things all the time, at the end of the day, what would happen is not that they would get, they would be get cheap again, it's at the cost of like rib eyes and strips and stuff would get less expensive.

Do I know if that's really a good oxtails are so expensive now, right? They'd be expensive for like, 20 years almost. Yeah, compared to what they used to be.

And even just like hanger steaks is like a false thing. It's like, the only reason why they were ever cheap is because when when butchers like you're, like you're talking about in your family, that they have whole animals to cut, there's only one hanger steaks, and they just didn't even really bother trying to sell it. But there's one of them, they like put it in their pocket and took it home. So the, you know, the the butchers family ate it. And it was kind of considered butchers cut, or, you know, they have these things that there's only a couple of them and cheap and they kind of tucked him aside and gave them to their best customers. And now it's like we are all there's so much demand for everything. You asked me at the beginning of this whole conversation about these off cuts like baseball steaks, or ranch steaks, and what you know what those are, and why we sell them is because everybody wants a steak like everybody walks in is like I'm looking for a steak to cook. And, sure I want to sell all my revised strips. And if it's not Valentine's Day or Christmas, I probably have plenty of those to spare, but not everybody wants to walk in and spend $25 a pound. So we have a lot of customers to satisfy that want quick cooking, you know, palatable, somewhat tender, convenient steaks that aren't going to break the bank. And there's just only so many of those on the animals. So we're always looking for more so like the Claude, that that wonderful sounding part that you mentioned earlier, the Claude heart is a muscle in it. It's kind of like the tricep of the beef. And, you know, while that is a really active part, again, that single muscles kind of shaped like a football, if we unearth it and take all the sinew and external things off of it and we portion it into steaks. We call the ranch steaks, they're kind of surprising. They're lean, but surprisingly tender for coming from the shoulder and a nice, affordable quick cooking steak. We sell a ton of them.

And a cow doesn't do too many dips, right? Yeah,

I mean, thankfully they walk forward, not backwards. And like the sirloin tip, which is part of the round as you asked me like one of the harder to use kind of leaner parts of the beef. So there's certainly a tip, it's also sometimes called the knuckle. It's one of those muscles in the leg. I was always trying to cut sirloin tip steaks out of it, one half of those are really chewy, and I don't think they're great. But that muscle is actually like if you look at it, there's a clear seam and you can separate into one half. Well, there's a couple things you take off of it, but the thing we would stake so one side is kind of flat and lean. And it makes great products or maybe like stir fry or something like that. But it is a steak it's a little too chewy. The other side, if you've seen it off, it's a perfectly round cylindrical muscle with a seam that runs down the middle. And we portion those into steaks and they look like little flat baseballs, like a cross section of a baseball. That's why we call them that. And that muscle when separated from the other one that is kind of tougher and more active is actually again, surprisingly, you know, on the tender spectrum and quick cooking and lean and convenient we sell it for like $12 a pound or something. And every week when I'm trying to figure out how to fill the shop, how to make everybody happy. There's just not enough quick convenient steaks to go around. So it's really important that we just kind of like educate people in a new ones to try.

Cool. Here's the last question, Matt. And last question. All right, so you're heard from from Martin Martin Schwab. Now, Heather, are you familiar with EQ GMA fish killing techniques? I am yeah, okay. So for those who are listening, who aren't techniques of fish killing that preserve the texture of the fish, brain kill and then spinal ablation, and it's a real thing, and it really helps you can go if you care a lot go read my old cooking issues posts on it, there's like 1000s of words you can read anyway. Is there are there any serious thoughts on using an EKG, the EKG method on mammals or birds? And I'm gonna say, let's open this up to have you heard of anyone doing interesting, do thinking about using alternative slaughtering techniques to try to increase the quality and or the welfare of animals?

Yeah, so I mean, we're always thinking about this, but you can't have this conversation without talking about the USDA, because unfortunately, in America, at least, in order for us to harvest and sell meat to other people, so this is if you're someone who's like, you know, boldly raising animals and harvesting them for yourself, you can do whatever you want. But if you are working with a farmer, they're raising animals, you want to harvest them and sell them to other people, they have to be slaughtered under USDA inspection. And the USDA is very strict about steps that need to be taken, you know, for both humane handling but also, you know, preventing issues that they foresee. So, so our hands are a little bit tied there. But I guess you this is kind of interesting because you put know more about this than I think I do. But my understanding of the goal of that process is that that like needle, the needle into the spine or brain is just like deadening brain function, right?

Well, so even after the brain is dead, the spinal cord is still sending, you know, like signals contraction signals to the muscles, depleting the ATP faster and so the fish is going to go into a harder rigger so whereas a hard rigger in an animal in a land animal might not be bad, because when it comes out of regular, it'll be more tender. Yeah. In a fish, it's gonna lead to take, you know, gapes in the filets and all sorts of problems. And so like, it's kind of weird in a fish, we're always trying to preserve firmness, you know, not dryness, but we're trying to preserve firmness as opposed to it being kind of flat, flabby and mushy. Whereas in an in an animal we're almost always shooting for, for tenderness, right. So it's kind of they're actually kind of cross purposes. But

fish yeah, this is fascinating. Because I mean, yes, so. So in, in slaughter of all the like mammals and quadrupeds, there is always a step in slaughter where they have to be stunned or something has to happen to that's, that's our idea of humane harvests. So they have to be stung so that we've done in the brain function, so they don't, you know, feel or understand anything that's happening, and then we can, you know, believe them out and finish the harvest. So, like, that's it that's a necessary step that we always take in inspected slaughter. But then it doesn't have to go through all the steps of rigor and kind of come out on you have to wait for that whole process to finish. But I'm always seeking, you know, carcass confirmation and firmness and we don't always achieve that on the other side, you know, sometimes with from other factors, whether it could be stress and harvest or chill time or other things like that. You'll actually end up with something like tenderness and confirmation are not the same thing. You like that sort of like soft floppiness is not a good, it's not tenderness. So I'd be kind of curious. I mean, I have no idea. I don't I don't know of anybody who does this. And I'd be so interested to see what the effect of this would be. I will say that poultry slaughter, not on a large scale. But you know, on a large scale of what we do, most poultry farmers are working under state inspection, and they're harvesting on their farms. And there is not as much oversight about how those animals are harvested, and we want to just be humane about them. And most people are just like splitting or beheading the chicken. So it's kind of happening all in one step. So I think that would be something where people could honestly consider that process because I would have no problem with it. Because it does take that humane step, you know, like as long as there's something that you're doing to dead in the nerve, or their brain function. That's sort of the best we can do to guarantee humane harvest. And if you could do that, you might end up with incredibly good, although I guess in poultry, firmness is really not a good thing.

Again, it totally Yeah, it totally depends, like all the cooking techniques are different in what you're shooting for is different, which is why but I'd be interested in trying I was trying to work on this with a doctor friend of mine. And I wanted to actually anesthetize anesthetize an animal. And then, you know, remove its blood under anesthesia and perfuse it with, you know, something else. So you're bleeding it, it's anesthetized, and that bleeds and kills it in one step. So it's fully bled and to see what would happen and people's reaction when I brought it up. Were like, I was literally compared with Dr. Mengele. And I was like, this is an animal I'm going to

eat, and it's about me, but I'm so interested in I'm like, Can we do this?

Yeah, I mean, look, I mean, I can put you in touch with him. And we can run the test. He's in Boston, but I can, you know, we, he's willing to run the test. You'd rather run it on a smaller animal first, like a rabbit or something like this. But, I mean, again, I think anything that leads to something more humane, like, I know, people were interested in doing anesthesia, like, like nitric, like straight nitrogen environment, anesthesia, and stuff like pigs, but old school, old school, slaughterhouses. I mean, everyone's worried that the heart is going to stop and they're not going to bleed out. Right. Right. Exactly. So

people are using, like, captive bolt guns. And I mean, it's, it's a second and it does have that same effect of, you know, deadening the brain function. But yeah, there's, I mean, the US they took the USDA is restrictive and yet, to your point, it's like they are really just making sure that it is humane, that that the timing of the the end of the function of the animal, you know, appropriately coincides with it actually, you know, bleeding out but not experiencing pain or stress and all this stuff. So,

yeah. When my my stepfather was a very small boy, this would be in the 50s. He maybe this is why he didn't become a butcher. He was at the slaughterhouse. It wasn't one of his dad's cows because they did he didn't have his own slaughterhouse. And he really only really did his own slaughter on the on the lamps he went out Have other people do the slaughter on the cows. And they had the person at the time they were using sledges and the someone stung the cow wrong. The cow got off the somehow got off the gambrel hook and went after my stepfather. Oh my god, apparently, he still he still eats meat. But he maybe that's why he decided not to become a butcher and become a psychiatrist.

It's kind of tragic. I mean, I've seen like this, it does happen. It's like sometimes there are just misses. And it's and that's a moment that's incredibly stressful for the animal and the people are involved that it's really unfortunate and there's so much work and control that goes into avoiding that. But okay, so sorry, my brain is now spinning about this. So have you ever like you know that when you harvest chickens and it's not it's not often that we would eat beef without it going through the full rigor process and kind of coming out on the other side of it. Although I'm always fascinated that I know that there are many cultures not American that typically harvest and immediately cook meat. Now, I've always been taught that if you don't wait out that rigor process and kind of let all of those those things happen that the quality of the of the meat would suffer and if you've ever harvested chickens and tried to eat them the same day it's terrible

nightmare. Well, so people love it though. That's the thing. It's just what we what we're accustomed to or like we want tender chicken Yeah, I think you know, if you're if you're doing soups, or or stews, and you like a chewy chicken, I think because there are cultures also where chicken is is eaten the same day. And it's, you know, I have some nightmare chicken slaughter stories from friends of mine that I won't go into different places where you know, it's like the closest the chicken is to alive before you eat it, the better. You know, and the same actually, frankly, also goes some people like pre rager fish, you know, like really crunchy pre rigueur fish.

I always kind of wondered if there was something where like, and this is like crackpot not at all scientific but to give you if it happens fast enough, can you be ahead of that whole process?

I've only done it in in fish and like when you kill a fish right away and you you know cut its muscles off. It's it's kind of crunchy. Yeah. When most people don't like it's hard as hell to slice

Yeah. And like the chicken if you were to harvest chickens and then try to eat them just like for lunch that day, you know, the the meat would would not pull off the bone and everything is really chewy and kind of hard to eat. And it's very, it's it's not a good experience.

Yeah, it's also one of the reasons why I think, like low temp like sushi, like whole bird cooking is kind of sometimes people don't get it, right, because it's not going to render out like the stuff where the muscle connects to the bones doesn't render as well as when you're doing a high tap. And so it tends to pull off the bone in a way that people find it unpleasant. And that's, I think half of the problem of work. We're doing low temp on things like birds, as people don't rejigger their expectations of what the meat texture is going to be like when it comes out. Right. On the other side. I didn't even get to talk to you about like, how much just being a graphic designer helping you look at an animal and you're like tracing it with a knife.

Not allowed to answer that question right now. We have to come back on.

Clearly we need to meet hotline

Oh man, I forgot I was gonna give you one good old school butcher story we allowed for the 40s It's from the 40s It's from the 40s All right, so my stepfather's my stepfather's father was he was in the military. So you know like like a lot of people who are fighting H word during World War Two. He was off in the Pacific. He was a quartermaster actually. And so his dad was who had you know come over from Italy in like 1908 had was running the sharp now meat was very strictly rationed at that time but because like you know, the the family butcher shop had relationships with the farmers and would do all their own slaughter they would slaughter extra animals that they weren't allowed to under the meat ration This is terrible. This is terrible. I know whatever. So like that they would have all this extra meat everyone involved is dead so I can talk about this. And so and this is the one time when like you know hardcore racism helps you out so like someone complained he gets brought into court because he all this extra meat that he was selling to people kind of under the table aside from the ration cards. And so drawers grandfather, you know, to my great great grandfather on that side spoke you know, perfect English, but when he was brought into court, they were asking him about all this meat and all this stuff. He goes in not speak English, not speaking English. And the judge was like He called them a WAPs and get the hell out of my court and throw them out. Meanwhile, like literally they were packing money into barrels because they were the only people in this in the in the south south. Sorry, in the north end of Boston that had meat to sell anyhow. butchery Heather, thanks for coming on. I hope you had a good time. I did. Yeah, yeah. Yeah. Come back some time we'll talk more meat cooking issues. Cooking issues is power. By simple cast thanks for listening to heritage Radio Network food radio supported by you for our freshest content, subscribe to our newsletter, enter your email at the bottom of our website heritage Radio network.org. Connect with us on Instagram and Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can also find us at facebook.com/heritage Radio Network herridge Radio Network is a nonprofit organization driving conversations to make the world a better, fairer, more delicious place. And we couldn't do it without support from listeners like you want to be a part of the food world's most innovative community. Subscribe to shows you like tell your friends and please join the HRM family by becoming a member. Just click on the beating heart at the top right of our homepage. Thanks for listening