Cooking Issues Transcript

Episode 173: Mark Ladner & Pasta Flyer


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Hello, and welcome to cooking issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of cooking issues coming to you from the British pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn on the heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from roughly 12 to 45. Join as usual, witness Tasha hammer Lopez Jack in the booth but today special guest Mark Ladner from Del Posto restaurant in the studio today. How you doing mark? Pretty well Dave? Listen, he's here actually to push his Kickstarter. However, since we haven't trapped here. Call in all of your Martin Ladner related questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128 that's the last my energy I bite here today general people's everyday some it is out there right now. Although Natasha, I broke my usual rule of not biking the wrong way down the street, just to avoid that one street with the cement. Cool always happens when I bite here is I biked down, I forget the name of it. It's like Johnson or white or something like that. There's a giant cement factory on it. And I inhaled cement dust on the way here every day I come. And that's why I'm in the first section. That's why I could do the intro because I went the wrong way down the street. Hey, Mark, how you doing? I'm doing well, Dave. So before we get into the general cooking issues related questions, why don't you tell us a little bit about your Kickstarter?

Well, yeah, so we have I think this is three days left on our Kickstarter campaign. We're trying to raise some money to do a pop up for a quick service gluten free pasta bowl concept. And we're hoping to visit some Northeastern college campuses in the fall, hopefully most of the month of October. And we're looking for some donations get this truck so we can make some visits and get some people excited about gluten free pasta.

Okay, a couple of things. Let's just break this down a couple of things at a time. Okay. Let's forget the gluten free for one minute just if possible, right now. Explain the idea. The genesis of the idea and why it's unnecessary thing to have Italian style pasta done for lack of a better word ramen style. In our speed ramen speed, style twice ramen speed. Well

In my extensive experience traveling the US and a lot of Italy, I've never really found a precedent for quick service Italian style pasta and I found that to be frustrating and disappointing. When, for example, you and I, Dave went to Tokyo, and the hammer as well, Hammer was we, we had a lot of examples of really great fast food that was ramen that was a nourishing meal as well as a quick snack and there's no precedent for that in America. Obviously, you've seen there has been quite a bit of momentum in the ramen space as of late with Momofuku for example. But there is no sort of precedent for for pasta done that way. And I don't really understand why

is it is more of a mental problem or a technical problem or both?

No, it's mental. It's purely mental. I don't think there's any technical problems at all

because you're dealing with a fresh fresh pasture it's gonna be fresh style pastures, not dried style pastures, right. Are you going to park

it's dried pasta straight drive. It's made from fresh but it's dry.

But semi so another's has to cook quickly though, right? Are you going to strictly like ham and so it's not like fully not fully dried them? Or is it like air dried but it's porous so it picks up the water really quickly? Not to give away 100 Okay, so rehydrates like super fast and explained to us the gluten free?

Well, this gluten free aspect started for two reasons one, because we found obviously dealing with dietary restriction and preference in the restaurant that it was becoming an increasing trend. We're currently had probably around 30% of our guests prefer gluten free the gluten free lifestyle today whether it will remain that way is obviously in question but we realized with so many people demanding gluten free pasta that we would need to have two inventories a gluten in an ongoing gluten if you're mixing the two then you can't have a certified non gluten so you're not really doing much of a service to the gluten free people that you need different boiling water Right exactly. And and some say different machines depending upon whether you want to be certified or not. So we decided to focus all our energy on just making the absolute best gluten free pasta which I feel is as good as regularly post at this point.

Well I know you're a big side by side tasting fellow as my and you've done many side by sides at your restaurant Del Posto what are the results have been?

It's hard to say I mean it's non gluten so it has a lot to do with the saucing. You know if you have a delicious flavorful sauce, it's harder to taste the difference. So I'm going primarily for texture and you feel you get I feel that I've been able to simulate an authentic texture which is very unusual and gluten free pasta because there's

no gluten and currently you're using the cup for cup I'm currently using fancy fancy fancy stuff

I like it a lot but in volume it's not it's affordable and volume

considering what you considering the amount that goes per serving you're saying it's reasonable Absolutely. Now by the way for those of you that don't see here's the thing that maybe people don't know maybe they've never been to Del Posto maybe they don't realize kind of what like a bonkers lunatic you are for pasta texture. But you know I mean unlike Natasha who will eat like pasta freaking sludge soup if it's handed to her cooked by students she's still eat like a paste to a pureed a a Reba Leto of pasta. You might say. That's just her style. I don't know. But like marksman totally true. No, she don't she prefers it done properly. She will eat slop. If you were to cook pasta to the point that I was going to dehydrate it and puff it she would still eat it as a cooked pasta. If I threw some crappy marinara on it.

That's just gross.

It's wrong. It's just wrong. But I love it about her because it shows that she has some inherent like weird crap that you couldn't predict because she does appreciate like nicely cooked pasta you on the other hand Mark detests poorly cooked pasta.

I do detest poorly cooked pasta.

So one thing I can guarantee if you were to stop by this, this this quick serve pasta at concept is that you will appreciate the texture that Mark is able to get now here's another thing who's this? Who's this Nan a chick? Who's that? I'm kidding. That gives us like you say it's not a style, right? What does that mean? Oh, no, no, no. Yeah, no nonsense

grandmother. It's like, it's our matriarchal avatar.

Yeah, if you will. So apparently she knows how to make the pot. Do you like her style of pizza they now sell in New York. And whose grandmother makes that kind of pizza anyway?

I don't know. One other thing I just wanted to say really quickly, David said it's important to mention that I would probably We consider myself to be a better pasta cooker than a pasta maker. And I think a lot of people underestimate the importance of the cooking aspect of pasta. Yeah, that's how that texture is achieved.

Are you a me? Are you a believer in the undercook? Even more and then hot sauce, put it together and let it soak? Isn't everyone who knows?

Yeah, but I don't use the water. I don't believe in that technique.

You make the sauce a little thinner, right or what?

Yeah, make the sauce center but I don't use the pasta water because they oversold my water. joint issues. Tap water.

What's up over salt? That's right, because you can't

you can't once you reduce salty water becomes an animal so and then if you're combining it with other really salty things, like rendered cured pork product or sheep's milk, cheeses that are aged and things like that, it becomes compounded to the point where you can

I've never had it, you know, the commercial pasta cookers that are redone fryers with this dark skimmer on the top user things. Yes. How do you keep the salt level constant? I had to keep tasting it. And

it's really not a big deal. But yes, you have to keep tasting.

I've never had never really used one.

They suck. Yeah.

Is there a better system out?

There is not? Yeah, it's really, it's, it's really frustrating. They've been decreasing the quality of steel, a little bit every year over the past 15 years to the point where if you get one to last three months, it's a miracle. Really, it's that bad

go into weld joints. So where does it go? Is it just rushed into the water or what?

Yeah, it's the joints, they they they blow out or it's just it's just really cheap, fabricated steel. And also, um, they'll actually tell you that they prefer that you don't use salt.

wanted to say that you prefer that you not cook pasta in the pasta cooker. That'd be easier. You know what I think it is, a lot of times anytime there is one of the problems with stainless steel, 304 and 316. Which I think they mainly make these things out of three or four and 316 is that if there's any non stainless stuff in it, it will migrate and shaft the stainless. So if they use any non stainless stuff in it at all, this is like if you look up a for people, if you care about this stuff, like look up the dangers of using non stainless screws in stainless fabrication when it's exposed to corrosive environments. And there is no other environment as corrosive as well there are but I mean, no cooking environment is so hot salted water, you know. So I don't know whether it's maybe like even just cooks using non stainless but like you know how those fake stainless racks when you throw them in an emergency circulator? They roast out in like a day. Yep.

Yeah, we've had, you know, $5,000 machines that have picked it out. And in three days,

I wonder whether it's the racking service there shafting it, like whether it's just poor quality. I mean, there's something in there as shafting. Like, if they use the real stuff. It should last longer than that,

in the past that has, they've just, they've just chose to use cheaper and cheaper steel.

Right. But I wonder whether it's they I wonder if they cheaped out on one particular thing. It's ruining everything. Like maybe they're maybe they're saving cuz I'm having this problem manufacturing in China now. Maybe? Maybe they're saving a nickel and costing you five grand?

Yeah. You know what I mean? No, no, it seems like it could be true. Like for 5000 bucks, I'll

give you this plastic cup. It's gonna last for a month and a half for $5,002. It'll last for three years. You know what I'm saying? So one last thing. One last thing before we get started that dealing with regular questions. So like, let's say I was to go on the website and donate some money. Yes. What do I get? Yes.

Well, you can get everything from we've been working Dave on an instant possible, because this pasta that we've created can actually be cooked in one minute. So as I know, you are a huge fan of microwave cooking. I also am a proponent of the magic of the microwave. Yeah,

people just haven't thought enough about it.

So this this post is actually cooked in a microwave. I mean, like I

mean, the one that you're gonna instinct one both and you're gonna so if I pay are you going to send me some of this stuff? Okay, so I'm gonna listen here are you

for 10 bucks Steve. That's freaking bargain.

You should charge more or like let people buy here's the problem with Kickstarter is can someone go buy a case of this crap and give you 100 bucks instead?

Absolutely not. Free Kickstarter. It I know how many Kickstarter campaigns

Hey, oh, my point is is that like, why don't they let you consider like a 10 box of this stuff like a different SKU from like, hey, if it was a different flavor, you could do it.

We're also selling a kilo bag, sweet,

innocent stuff on them on that and I'm not saying but you know what I've always wanted to own I've always wanted to own one of those things that can seal the top of a bowl or a cup with a little thing. Do you have that are you going to get Are you going to get one I mean I've thought about packaging fairs I don't know how much they cost but when that be sick if you had a little you could literally make the My kids love hearty chicken they don't like the the actual Asian versions but the the really crappy hearty Chicken Noodle one because it doesn't have any vegetables. That's why They love that that fake that fake soup stuff there. It's good stuff.

They have new ones that are like perforated secondary skin lids. So you can like drain out the cooking water which is pretty cool

sounds Is that your favorite new word skin lid? Skin. She's she's got the look got the lip.

Just having Marco cook at your house.

I think I will go cook in your house for a nominal fee.

How much does that cost? How much stuff? And how many people you can for? Like

10 or 12?

Oh, do the math. What is that?

It's a lot. No,

it's not that much. How much is that? It's?

Well, it would be

it's roughly the cost of going to Del Posto

we bring all the food and some nice bottles of candy.

It's like it's roughly the cost for you to go out to have a dinner at Del Posto. And instead, Mark Landon will come to your house which is sure to impress your buddies even impressed my buddies and

we could we could we could enjoy some gluten free pasta or some gluten pasta. Yeah, I can cook that too.

Are you gonna make any will you make any of your like famous like billion layer lasagna? I love that stuff is a billion layer. Is it working? No. No, no gluten form very well,

it does very well. Yeah, absolutely. It's good on the stick today, which I figured you'd appreciate. You could probably get it on your bike. Well, geez,

if you're gonna put on a stick, do you chill it? Secure it? Exactly. And then, but then the question is, can you make it such that you will stick together enough once it's returned? No. Gotta coat it with something and then fry it.

We prefer to serve a cold with hot sauce.

Call it hot sauce. That sounds like some sort of like a revenge based like metaphor. Stars. We'll figure that out. I'm sure being the queen of revenge shirt. Yeah. All right. Okay, so let's look at some questions. Live caller Oh, live caller live. Caller you're on the air. Hello. Hello, Dave,

I have a question for you. I have recently bought some carbon steel. Susan and what I thought was properly at the time, but I think I use a little bit too much oil. I was wondering if you knew a good way to kind of send them back to factory without and I prefer not to there's anything like electrolysis, okay,

so the way to tell if you have too much oil, when you're seasoning it is you'll have a you'll have drip marks on the inside like little bumps and you'll have kind of a stickiness in the in the bottom of the pan. Right mark? Is that? Is that what you're noticing? How hot does your oven get? Do you have a self clean? Do you have a self cleaning cycle in your oven

in a professional setting, so

I mean, if you have someone with access to a self cleaning oven, just remove any any any plastic handles and throw the pans in on self clean and it'll incinerate all of the stuff that's on it. And then you're starting from scratch. I mean, you can do it. You can do it on your on like a commercial range top. The problem is, is it's really going to smoke out the kitchen and you have a real like it unless you're really careful with it, you're going to work the bottom of your pan. Neither of which is things you want you want you'd much prefer the even heat of an oven but a standard commercial oven in runaway is only going to get up to about 550 and you need to get you need to get over six, six, I would say 656 and change to burn that stuff off. If you have access to like a woodfired oven you can do that. Or if you have access to like a real pizza you know oven that'll probably get hot enough to burn this sucker off. What do you think?

I do have access to what I have

it oh yeah, cool, then fire the hell out of it. Like fire the ever loving hell out of it. Then brushes stuff to the sides, throw the pen in and just you know stand back lit the smoke, it'll it'll smoke off. It might take it a while you can tell because it'll look like steel. Again, it never looked fresh. It's going to look kind of black but it won't have the coating on it and then just I would like I would like just give it a Scotch Brady and then and then re season but you know, obviously be careful about not dripping too much oil in it next time you want I usually do. I usually put the oil, I put a little in the bottom, I run it around and then I quickly just take a like a problem of paper towels I use them but as they can throw lint into it and leave little linty jobbies and things they have to be kind of careful. They make specific kind of like brushes and things like this. If you like the crate making people have like oiling pads that don't throw lint off but then I just wipe it around the pan like let it drip wipe it off to get the excess out and then throw it in the oven. I do that like five six times. And then it builds up enough of a coat so that you can build from there. You know you have a gold thing other than paper towels mark to use for that man he's I mean I do but it's such use

like like kitchen side towels or white balls. Like what

is the white balls that the Japanese sport towel? What is that?

Yeah, I believe it is yeah,

you know I'm talking about those Japanese sushi sports houses. Okay. pencil. Yeah, but like the only issue with paper signed towels and paper towels. Hey, you know, you could probably you ruin it and so the front house is gonna get pissed. But you could use a polishing cloth. They would hate you. Yeah, they would hate you though. But whatever. I mean, the thing is, if you throw it away, you can blame the front of house for having lost it right. I'm kidding. Don't do that to your front of house. Alright, let's go on to a question. We have a question. Is that good? Is that good? Are you happy with that? Let's not work. Perfect. Thank you very much. Okay, Alex in Toronto wrote in? And we'll take this question and then we'll go to a break. A few weeks ago, I sent in a question about font They think you'll like this one more. Not not, like find like fond of you like find in the bottom of the pan when you're making the meet. And one about an upcoming event you mentioned, I was wondering if you had chosen not to answer or maybe got lost in the shuffle of the last few weeks. I totally understand if this sort of thing is limited interest. But if it did simply get forgotten. Here are the questions they sent before. Alex, we do not ignore questions. If we missed it. It means we missed it. So please anyone if they send a question and we don't get to it, it means it got lost in the shuffle. Like maybe got put on my iPad and then like I didn't see it because I didn't boldface it or whatever. But no, we don't we don't ever purposely if we haven't purposely ignored a question. No, no, no, no, we take anything. Wow. Just like remember like, She is like my grandma that stars is most famous, I think saying back at the SEI about our intern Cliff ago there now. Now we're gonna do it anyway. Okay. Let's take the second one first. Last week, he started talking about an upcoming trip to Toronto, and a huge fan of cooking issues and on the one occasion I was able to go I love Booker and DAX will this Toronto event be something it is possible for a regular schlub? Like myself to get tickets to? Best Alex? Well, being a schlub myself I will be there. But what am I doing? I'm actually tending bar in which, which, which restaurant over there? You're gonna look it up. Like I remember, you know, I

didn't I thought you want to know your plates?

Why would I? Why would the people on the air want to know about my flights? No, it was not a person. Some radar will look it up and we'll figure it out. But I believe that, you know, anyone in the restaurant that night, can order cocktails that theoretically be making on the 10th on the 10th. And then the other thing is, there's a Toronto Film Festival. And I'm going to be discussing the relative merits or demerits of Soylent Green is

a fire in the movie theater.

Check this out people. Did I mention this on air already? Okay, so they want me to do a series all demonstration. In a movie theater. Let me repeat this. They want me to do a series all demonstration involving torches and fire in a movie theater now. I like fire more than the next guy. In fact, yesterday, my wife Jen was like Dave, you're freaking Pyro like the theme that runs through your whole life is that you're a freaking Pyro from the time you're a kid. Or whatever. I'm building more rockets with DAX I got like a I got like a five foot rocket called G force that uses a G scale motor in flight. You know, huge like crazy. Last time I made one we had a problem with the ejection charge nothing burrowed like a foot into the ground would have gone through any car. They hit crazy. Anyway, so so she's like, you're a pyro you're you're imprinting the pyro on the children, whatever. So I'm just saying I like fire. I'm a cook. I think most cooks like fire mark. Love it. Yeah, love it. Right. If you didn't like fire and you're a cook that's kind of like a doctor was afraid of blood. You know what I mean?

Yeah, I mean, questionable character. Yeah, it's like,

yeah, go into raw food then you can be a raw food preparation list. If you if you don't like the fire anywho I think it's unwise to do a fire demo in a movie theater. It's like the classic The you don't yell fire in a crowded theater. You know, the corollary to that is math people. You don't make a fire in a crowded movie theater. You know? I'm gonna cry fire. I'm gonna make the I'm gonna turn on the series. I'm gonna go fire. Just kidding. No, it's ridiculous idea. You know what? Thank God is not my movie theater. And you know what? Anyone in Canada listening? Are your rules different in Canada? Are you allowed to like fires and movie theaters in Canada? Maybe where I come from movie theaters are made like a fabric and crap and like, you know, like, it's easy to have people get jammed in the doors and trampled to death. So we tend not to live fires and movie theaters here in this country

said the movie was Soylent Green, right? And that your demo is based off Soylent Green,

and you're saying I'm supposed to cook people. Did you see that? There's this we talked about this already on air that there's a person marketing something called Soylent. Yeah, no, you were supposed to do something with it. Remember? Now that was a different Soylent though. So this this Soylent like that one was the one that's supposed to it like that, like a television personality shall remain nameless, said we do something with this product Soylent which was meant to kind of simulate Milt as the guy said. And Milt, for those of you that are up on your fish Fish bodily product terminology I won't say the other I won't say the human analogy on the air. But so I guess that would be made from proto people. But this Soylent is about how far can we stretch that bit. This Soylent is literally this this person who's an engineering person says, Don't you hate how you spend all this time wondering what you're going to eat and whether or not you're going to enjoy it? Why not just take all the enjoyment out, here's all of the nutrients you need that they currently know about mixed into a pace that you can squeeze into your mouth and drink. takes two minutes, you could prepare a week's worth of meals and you could just drink it on the go. You don't no longer have to worry about like whether you enjoy your life. More time for kickboxing and other crap that makes you not live any longer. You don't like it, let's say you if like look when you're like I love kickboxing. I love kickboxing. I think it's really awesome kickboxing, because it was on it was on the damn. Like video for it. Like they show this person who's like, here's the thing about overly Healthy People, right? Like, I think, like crazy kung fu people that can do amazing stuff are freakin amazing. I love that they exist. I love it, they exist. But like the idea that we all need to be like hyper cut, hyper fit, like somehow that's part of what it means to be like an active, active healthy, like urban person and today's environment, I think is just, it's just gross. It's, it's, it's like instead of like your car, every other joy in life, expensive, every other joy in life and at considerable actual monetary expense. It's like, it's it's the current version of having a really sweet car. And I think in a way, it's just as gross as like, I think like being fit and healthy is awesome. I think like the hyper fit, healthy, polished thing is just it's another like modern craziness now. Especially if it means that you're not if you're if you're eating, here's a note, here's how you can tell whether you fall on the right side of the wrong side of like health. If you're buying Soylent, you're on the wrong side. You know, I'm saying like that's it that's the market right there if you if you are purchasing Soylent, because you spent too much of your time enjoying your life, and not enough time with more kickboxing problems.

Did you want to know your flights?

No, I don't want to know I mean, eventually, but not right now. Okay, so the second question I was had was,

let's hang tight on the second question. I have an enthusiastic caller on the line right now.

Derek. Caller, you're on the air.

Hi, this is Matt from Milwaukee. I have a question about making an alcoholics. Watch. Okay. So we purchased our restaurant operates four nights a week and then on Fridays, and Saturdays starting at 1130. We kind of switch it to underground ramen shop. Just playing ramen and beers and stuff. We thought it'd be awesome to buy a slushie machine and make boozy flushes. And we were just wondering, is there any special formulation that we're gonna have to do to make certain cocktails in the slushy mode? I know Parsons, chicken and fish in Chicago does macaroni slushy and that was when we learned to that are like oh, like Bob.

Oh, nice. Nice. Nice. Despicable Me reference. I appreciate that. In the so here's the trick, Nick bronies are the reason why first of all, as we all know, Negronis are delicious and hugely popular in in the food service sector for the past, you know, long time and recently have become kind of popular, popular in like kind of general general issue. One of the amazing things about Negroni, one of the reasons you see it in so many different guises is that that sucker is bulletproof. So it's, it's good to cold. It's not really to one thing, it's not good. It's not really good to warm, but it's good to cold. It's good, over diluted. It's good carbonated. Very few drinks are as malleable as the Negroni is, which is why it lends itself to a lot of things. So it's not a surprise that someone made a good tasting Negroni in a slushy format. It's a little trickier when you're dealing with with other products, we have to realize is that a slushie is in general going to be more diluted than a regular cocktail. So the first mistake people make with it with this with a slushie based with a slushy based drink is getting the alcohol level too high, you need to pull the alcohol level. Lower. Also, Negroni is interesting because it doesn't contain other than the acidity from the vermouth. There's not a lot of added a city unless you're adding juices and so you don't have to worry as much about the acid balance in an erroneous watered down as you do in a in a cocktail that contains acidity. For instance, a margarita when you're going to dilute and chill something more than normal. What you need to do is slightly reduce the acidity and slightly increase the ratios Sugar in general. So I'm not saying make it sweeter on a volume basis because you don't want to do that. But I'm saying you're going to want to decrease the acid to sugar ratio slightly. And you'll notice this as you dilute drinks down drinks that you'll you'll you'll note, you'll just notice this, that, that that that's the way you're kind of palette works for a general guideline, I would look up I have it published blender drink that works in a slushie machine that's done using a freezer in the New York Times Magazine a couple months ago called The italiana style Jana, which is a take on a Harvey Wallbanger. And that that recipe is tweaked to work either in a fridge or in a in a slushie machine. And if you follow those ratios of liquid to alcohol, you should be in the right range. And, you know, you know, if I had it with me, I don't have it with me. I have a bunch of recipes with those specs. And actually, I have the percentages in my cocktail book, which is coming out in November. Liquid intelligence from WW Norton. But so those have the specs, but I would start right around there. Does that make sense? Yes, it

does. Thanks. Thanks. We're always has like cute plots in it. So we're always going to have like a Wisconsin old fashion, and one of them with a brandy. And then the other one, we actually want to have like, deaths from around town and cocktail guys from around town come by, and do like whatever the hell they want for a week. And just kind of have that as like a festival mark.

So right Well, one of the one of the things in my cocktail book that is kind of, you know, relatively new for cocktail books, as far as I can tell, is, I have a chapter in it called cocktail calculus. And in cocktail calculus, what I've done is, I've looked at, you know, the standard ingredients that we use in our Bachelor cocktail, and have not like, I've broken them down by percentage acidity and percentage sugar, and then looked at, like alcohol, sugar, and dilution numbers for something like, I think like, I forget what it was like 50, or 60, kind of classic cocktails, and then all the recipes that I've ever created. And what I noticed stunningly is that the ranges for different styles of cocktail are fairly limited in terms of their acid to sugar ratios. And then in terms of how those acids sugar ratios mixed with, mixed with ethanol levels for various styles of drinks. And so then you can calculate all the stuff. So if you look up the numbers that are in that italiana style, ya know, and you try to hit those numbers for sugar. And if you if you email me in a question, and I can get you the actual numbers, you're looking for a percentage, ethanol, percentage, sugar, percentage acid, I could talk about it next week. But that's ostensibly one of the interesting things about my cocktail book is this kind of new system where you just looking at overall sugar, acid and ethanol percentages for different styles of drinks. But I have those numbers for blender drinks. And what I do for carbonated drinks at the bar is literally when I'm developing it, I just have those numbers, and I just move ingredients around until I hit the proper numbers. And then it's a go from there.

Excellent. That's exactly that's exactly what we're kind of looking for. Just just to see if we could just formulate something like a sorbet. So if someone tells us like a day out, like, hey, will this work and the machine that we can send, we can do that you're ready for go time instead of wasting a bunch of time without having a good product. Alright, well, I'll

give you some of the numbers if you email in a question, but you still have to go out and buy my book deal.

Absolutely. You're gonna have like eight guys at this restaurant. Buy your book. Cool. Thanks. We're big fans. I've been a listener since day one.

Oh, I appreciate it like and you know, I I am. I cannot believe that people have listened to us for that long. But thank you so much. I appreciate it. And he's still there. Now he's gone. Alright, we're gonna come to a break come back with more cooking issues.

Hi, I'm David volti, host of the speakeasy. This summer heritage radio network is turning five years old. Since our launch in 2009. We've continued to bring you food and culture content like no one else. And we need absolutely need your help. Heritage radio network.org is a passionate grassroots action oriented nonprofit organization. That means we depend on the support from listeners like you to keep us alive. If you love what you hear on heritage Radio Network, visit our website and become a member today. Thanks for listening, and thanks for your support.

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And we're back. Welcome back to Cooking issues, you still have time to call into questions to more blender add 718-497-2128 That's 718497212 Wait, before we get back to Alex's question about fond. I'd like to give a big shout out thanks to John riper for his donation to heritage Radio Network. My correct check. Yeah. And you have some other fundraiser you want to talk about why don't you describe it? Well, it's

our Did you notice our five year anniversary this summer? I did not five years

555? We've been on for what? Four? Four? It's been a long,

four, somewhere in that range.

So what do we got for five years.

So we're doing a summer fundraiser, and John riper, thank you for donating and we hope the other cooking issues listeners might consider supporting the network for all of the programming we offer for free and we are listener supported nonprofit organization, so any amount helps it's heritage radio network.org And you can click the donate button.

Yeah, let me ask you a question. Yeah. So just programming on this show. Here we provide this for what how much do we charge for this? Zero? waive it? Is it free for us to make this

oh it's not free for us to make no it's free for you to listen to wait so there's there are costs that come along with running an internet radio station

so like all this stuff, this is not free? We do not charged for the product correct? So this is a bad a bad business model.

Is it a kindness business?

Yeah, so So in other words, what you guys out there need to do is support our bad business model by doing for Jackson money so that he could put away Jack the intro music today was that was that you would like to kind of almost newsy thing Believe Me me me me me in the back was

the only people who hear that are the ones tuning in live that was before the actual show started and those are friends of the network who also give us music for free so yeah, oh,

by the way, Jack the not you Jack Jack the barback at Booker and DAX who is also in the NYU food program. You know what you know what he saw the other day talking about a friend of ours. He saw Big ups in concert Joe's ban he said Joe you know Joe also you know engineer here wasn't in here. Those of you that listen, back in the day, or when you were on the break said he was an amazing from it, so it was an awesome show.

He's unreal. He's really really good.

Maybe we should all go see a big show sometime.

You remember Carlos? Yeah, he's in big ups also. Yeah.

Nice. Well, apparently big ups to Big ups. Yeah. But like I heard that Joe like like, strangles himself at the mic. He

does. That's true. He like rips his face apart on stage. It's insane. He

likes stares at the ground sell only for a minute and wraps in my quarter on himself, chokes himself and then goes crazy or something like this. You would never guess if you met the guy. No, it seems like a nice fellow.

He's insane on stage.

He's not like Alien Jorgensen doesn't cut himself does he? Doesn't take it that far. Yeah, well, I hope not because alien Jorgensen I mean, God love him. I can't believe he's still alive. But not from cutting himself but just all the freakin heroin. You know what I mean? So much heroin. I mean, I like what ministry you like what ministry mark? And Jennifer says, Yeah, right. Jesus built my Hot Rod, not the version on the album, which I think is not as good but the version on the EP that had the giant motor on the front of it was a song. It's gotten me through many problems in my life many late nights. Jesus built my car. You know that song? Jack? I don't Oh, my goodness. You

can't play it either. Because we need to get authorization. You think we can

get alien Jorgensen? You know who sings the lyrics on? That is the guy from the Butthole Surfers? Yeah, anyways, that is a good song. And now it's going through my head. So I don't know if I'm gonna be able to answer these questions. I mean, I guess that's why we are good friends Edible Schoolyard before we go back into the question. And then we're just gonna do questions like rapid fire on the way out. So, you know, our good friends at the Edible Schoolyard who, you know, they just they just helped kids like, you know, grow things and understand where their food comes from, and make them appreciate things like you know, fresh vegetables mean really terrible idea, right? It's terrible, terrible, terrible idea. Anyway, great. So they're having a fund raising event as well and so started talking about

it's to benefit there a new school in Harlem or a new Edible Schoolyard in Harlem, and it'll If you donate, you'll go toward vital infrastructure improvements.

So they have one where it's in Brooklyn, right? The current one. Yes. So they want to do one in Harlem and people this is a good project to support where do they go?

crowdrise.com I think just look for Edible Schoolyard within it

edible to your Crowdrise my son actually, Booker is no longer going to be his school is no longer going to be up in Harlem, but he's going downtown next year, but he's been going to school in Harlem for the past six, six years or so. And like, you know, like a lot of the schools up there, they could use this sort of program. It'd be really helpful, useful, awesome and worthwhile for your extra nickels. Now you can't get Mark Ladner to come cook for you in that but how do they get to before free don't forget we didn't say where the Kickstarter is to find your thing.

Go to www pasta flyer.com

Pasta feiyr.com And you also get to hear the voice of full Bravo right yeah,

so Bravo Ville Bravo. The mean cameo

yeah but giant D bag for not coming in announcing on our show mean I'm just gonna say huge D bag.

Why we couldn't get a personal car service or something.

What is it such a T bag?

I don't know what doesn't work for free days.

doesn't work at all.

Hey, how many times is Phil mooched? Like liquor and or food off of some event that we've been a part of?

Yeah, I think I don't have enough fingers.

Yeah, no one has enough fingers. Even if you had a genetic genetic anomaly and you were born with like quadruple fingers you wouldn't have enough fingers and toes to make up for the number of times fill as much food and booze off of us. And like you know, I'm just saying all I wanted in return was a little bit of his sweet sweet thermal Ravencroft S Voice doing his Tony the Tiger actually, you've not lived until you've heard Phil Bravo. Do a sad Tony the Tiger saying they're great when a really mopey voice. Yeah, I mean, you know, Mark, you have quite an onerous resonant voice but even you would have to admit Phil Bravo has like the

he's like a satin kerchief. Silverado. Yeah, yeah,

yeah. Anyway, back to Alex's question before I get kicked off here. A few weeks ago, I sent in a question about font. I was wondering, I was going to get to the question. I make many recipes from cooks illustrated, which rely on searing meat to create a fawn, which is then used as a base for a sauce or a gravy gravy instance. That's a meta. Okay. What about the mark? I know that you're not from there, but like, you know, you hang out in Rhode Island, right? Are they like Boston where they call the sauce gravy when it's on macaroni real times when they do they call it macaroni and gravy like to do in Boston? Sure. Really? Yeah. So yeah. You know, in Boston, they

get that we were in New Haven Dave do they do that?

I didn't hang out with real like, Italian Americans there. I used to go to a place actually called the market Johnny Club, which was real but I didn't talk to the cooks. It was all cops nuns dirty linoleum floor and soap operas. And it was like you had to have a key and you went in and it was just like the weird like the weird like salad bar and you know it's like the whole real deal. And you know, but you know what they say about people from Mark a better to better to have a death in the family than a market John at the door, you know, I'm saying yeah, yeah, nice. Anyway, no offense to people from market anyway, so the tax collectors anyways. I make many recipes from cooks illustrated, which rely on searing meat to create a font which is then used as a base for sauce or gravy. I was wondering if you could give me some tips about how to do this more effectively and efficiently. I sometimes have trouble getting a fan to form at all and often it takes a long time to form when I do succeed. It does take a long time. I mean, it's the idea it mean there's no way you can't not have it take a long time because the idea is to create those those brown bits without burning it. I mean there's no need some

BTUs to me can't do it.

Oh yeah. So when I do succeed much longer than the recipe descriptions would indicate me it maybe underpowered stove. Yeah. Yeah, also it seems that the delicious brown particles that are created end up suspended in the oil much of which must be discarded to avoid making the recipe greasy. I think a lot of people use too much oil when they're trying to do something like this anyway, I mean, like think about it this way. Well, we'll get into it. It seems to me that several other several factors affect this process including the amount of oil in the pan Yes, the temperature of the payment the meat hits the metal, maybe more like the amount of heat you can deliver to it. Really you know what I mean? how high the element is turned and probably element is turned. See, I'm thinking now that you have an electric range, which I've never had a good result in electric range right have you mark mean? Induction? Yes, but like, like a regular like electric whenever anyone says whenever anyone says the element element is turned makes me think they have one of those old school electric ranges which of their like, they've bad. I mean, you can work with it. You like those things? James Beard. Weird, right? Also, James Beard did not like fresh sardines, like canned sardines, which I also liked, but they're not the same product. Why would you even compare them? They're not the same anyway. Probably the temperature and the dryness of the meat itself. What are the optimal conditions for creating a delicious Meyer tastic fun and what is my best bet for doing so either? quickly or efficiently in the home kitchen. Okay, so here's the thing, what do you Mark, I think like a lot of people they put, they're gonna put too much oil in the pan right completely agree with that, yeah, you want a little bit so that you get good contact that you don't want some think about it this way, no fun develops on the inside of your deep fry pan. And the reason is, is because the meat is not sticking to the side of your deep fryer. If the meat don't stick, then you must acquit or whatever however the OJ reference for it works if the meat don't stick, there's no fun, which is why you can't create a good font in a nonstick pan, agree with me here marks, so a little bit of oil in there and you drop the meat in and don't move it, let it sit, develop the color stuff needs to stick to the pan stuff don't stick. Remember the OJ, there's no font, you know what I'm saying? I think the other thing is, is that usually when I'm doing it, I'm doing a bunch of meat in the pan and in the same pen. And the first couple of pieces aren't ever as good as like the fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh, eighth, you know, when you're when you're doing multi, let's say you're doing a brace and you're the first couple are never going to be as as good. I'm not, I mean, it needs to be hot enough to create the it needs to be hot enough to actually create the mylar products that stick to the thing. So in that sense, if you overcrowd your pen and it never gets up to those temperatures, then you're just going to be you know, steaming your meat, and you're not going to get a good font. But I mean, I'm also not one of these people who like puts like one little piece in and then because if if you under fill your pen, then you're going to burn the font on the edges that have already been created. So it's a this is why like you need to start out hot once it's actually in searing mode, you can torque back on it a little bit. And if you overcrowd your pen, you're not going to create a font at all. And if you undercrown your pan, you're gonna get burning, especially around the edges of the pen. If your flame is if you have a flame if it's leaking up or over on the sides. And burnt font is nasty. Fine. Am I right? Yeah, that's true. So I always do it in this order I do meet first, then. Then the onion product, right? Do you always do that? Same way? Yeah. But like after the meat right? The first then and then you can increase the oil a little bit and do the onions. If what if you're doing a meat only if you don't have that much oil, you're not going to get that problem with losing it all all the particles in the oil. And the second thing is, is that don't scrape your pan when you're doing this stuff, because you're trying to get the stuff to stick to the pan. So you shouldn't have too much stuff floating in the in the oil right or no.

I think the main problem is using too much oil. The main purpose of the fat is just so that the meat doesn't stick?

Yeah. Yeah. And I've never thought about I've never thought about. I always thought beforehand when I'm doing these because it's always in braises. But do you think that affects it at all the salting? I mean, I think it would pull protein to the pool protein to the surface and maybe get more proteinaceous stuff onto the pan, which is going to make more fun. But I don't know for sure. Maybe someone out there knows what about cold

to do temper your meat or do start a cold like the refrigerator.

I mean, it's interesting. I've never done a side by side. But I mean, you and I both know that usually what happens is is you get the stuff out, you're doing your pre prep work, and then you see her on it. So it's never fridge cold by the time that gets into the pan, because I've never that if I'm going to be searing it unless I'm doing low temp work, which sometimes I am I'm doing low temp work that I'm very careful about keeping it cold while I'm doing my initial sear. But if I'm doing a standard braise, I mean, that stuff warms up, I don't even give a crap because I know I'm fat. You know, like I'm throwing them in and out of the same buckets where I'm like seared you know the secret versus unsealed stuff because it just doesn't freakin matter to me. What are you the same way or no? No, I keep it separate. You keep it totally separate. Even though you're gonna braise the hell out of it compartmentalized? Well, you know what, that's the difference between like an actual Pro and someone who came at being a semi pro from the back end? You know what I mean? This is why people yell at me. So I'm told that I have to get the hell off of the air. So I have some questions. I have one. Some interesting stuff actually about soy how to get a soy sauce flavor without soy that I'm going to get to next week. Some low temperature bags and also I have one, maybe I can drive like 30 seconds. Really. Alright, so I'll also get to the care for nonstick pans, how to clean them out hint scotch brite makes it non scratch version that you can use in your Teflon in your nonstick pans and about Teflon in general next week on cooking issues.

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