Cooking Issues Transcript

Episode 176: The Geoduck Mascot


Hello, everybody, and welcome to a brand new series on heritage radio network called the culinary call sheet where we give a peek into the back kitchen of culinary media. I'm your host, April Jones,

and I'm your co host, Darren bresnitz. Part of why we started the show was to offer an unofficial mentorship for anyone who's interested in learning about all aspects of food and video, whether that's TV, social media online, or just something you want to do for fun.

Absolutely what was once niche or a little silly, as I'm sure you remember, Darren, when we started out, this man has now become such a massive playing field for so many creatives using food as the medium.

It's something that has driven us professionally and personally, for so many years. What excites me the most about this show is that we're going to sit down with some of the industry leaders to hear how they made it and what drew them into this industry.

With 20 years in the culinary production game ourselves. We're hoping we can give through these conversations an insider's view into personal stories from the field, as well as an in depth behind the scenes look into some of the most popular food programming. In today's evolving culinary media landscape.

We'll be covering everything from how to style your food, to how to license IP, to developing your own ideas, and some tips from the masters of how to host your own show.

Yeah, it's a little bit of conversation, how to and how do you do the things that you do in color media, which I'm so excited about? I love so many of the guests that are coming on this season. We have talent from Food Network from Vice media eater refinery 29,

we've met some of the best people in the world both in front of and behind the camera. And we're bringing them all together to share their stories, their delicious adventure and their unique journey into this crazy world.

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Today's program has been brought to you by s Wallace Edwards and Sons third generation cure masters producing the country's best dry, cured and aged hams bacon and sausage. For more information visit Surrey farms.com This is

Mitchell Davis host of tastes matters. You're listening to heritage Radio Network broadcasting live from Bushwick, Brooklyn. If you'd like this program, visit the heritage radio network.org for 1000s more.

Hello, and welcome to cooking issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of cooking issues coming to you live actually at 12 this time 12 o'clock. I was here at 12 o on heritage radio network in Shrek Brooklyn. Call your questions live 27184972128 That's 718-497-2128 join as usual witness Dasha, the hammer Lopez how are you? Good? Yeah, yeah, Jack. I'm doing great. Yeah. We're gonna, well, to plan we're gonna have a special guest caller. After the break new rules Nora and formerly of the French Culinary Institute now hitting up Marco Samuelson's Restaurant Group. And we'll ask him how many restaurants he's open to this week. Because like, whenever you like, Oh, um, you know, I actually well, we used to just do fake Austrians I can't really imitate the actual nose accent. So I want him pray. But he who? He's like every time you call him he's like, Yeah, I'm headed off to somewhere crazy to open like 13 restaurants. I'll be back in like a month. Right? It's

true. I think that he and you were guests together the first time you came on heritage that Patrick show like years and years ago,

that is entirely possible. Yeah, that is that is. I mean, I'm not going to say plus or minus where that's the case. But he's going to come on actually, to talk to us about bone marrow to answer Justin's pressing questions on bone marrow because you know what I used to like, and I'll tell you a little bit now you know, I've cooked plenty of bone marrow in my life, but it's always just been kind of homestyle in acid buco. You know, he'd like us to go finally something we like together. She's awesome. But you know, as a Buddha when I was a kid was cheap. wasn't expensive back in the day. So anyways, I used to cook anyway, and I take out the bone marrow and put it on my risotto. But you know, that's about the extent of never I've never cooked at restaurant, the style so you know for service anyway, so no one's going to come on because the man is cooked more bone marrow than I care to eat. Okay, so let's answer some other questions by way Dave climate had a question a long time ago. He is at I am fractal on the on the Twitter and he says Vir at cooking issues reminding, reminding you to talk about infusing clams, slash oysters, and then he says suevey tricks. I don't really know any suevey flavour tricks. I know CBT tricks I don't know for right so you don't need CV tricks for lasers? No. I mean, I'm sure that like I believe the rope has had like a razor clam recipe, I think um, but other you know what, you know is a really good low temperature recipe is the Modernist Cuisine recipe for gooey duck for those of you that have never had the gooey duck before. Me for those of you that don't know what gooey duck looks like,

yeah, like Stossel hate this.

I mean, do you like lead access? I don't think I've ever I've had an M Myhrvold thing. It's spelled G O duck for those either. So who the hell knows why it's pronounced gooey duck. And what's his name? Euell Gibbons in stocking the blue eyed scallop which is classic of foraging by the way he you know, he just stuck in a while asparagus stuck in a blue light scallop a couple of books and you like he talks about going to get it like at the super low low tide like running out on the on the Pacific coast and get out I don't know whether it's true or false, but he you know, he has an article on it. Anywho it is. Let's just say it's suggestive as a as an animal my right. Yeah, I mean, it's imagine you took like, like a steamers shells, inflated them huge and then spread them open. And then and then went on the set of a porn movie with it and used it used it as a some sort of, anyway, it's it's horrific site and even more so when you prepare it because you have to peel the outer skin off, which is possibly the most suggestive thing I've ever done in a kitchen. Like hands down, you know, taking the skin off of of a gooey duck outside is like banana rams. But so then it's very tough that you know, that siphon we'll call it is very tough. And so, you know, one of the things you can do is just slice it really, really thin on a bias and, and sauce it and eat it like that it's got kind of a nice crunch to it. Or, or But Nathan and Chris and, you know, Maxime and these guys in the Modernist Cuisine, I don't really know whose recipe was they put it in a in a in a C Vapp and cooked it very quickly. Very low. And it was the most tender gooey duck I've ever had in my life. It's delicious. You had it. You liked it, right. I've only had it like crudo I think yeah, crudo where it's kind of crunchy. It's nice. Anyways, so on to flavor infusion. So here's a

we really quick I just have to add this the Evergreen State College in Olympia, Washington. Yeah. Their school mascots the gooey duck you're lying to me lying to you. I'll show you.

I'll show you how to do that. They call it speedy. The gooey duck. Hello. I'm sorry that he's so speedy. Yeah, and say yeah, Speedy. That's what she said. Anyway, what college

it's a Evergreen State College

and they couldn't have chosen like something out of their like amazing temperate rainforest up there. They had to choose the gooey there's gooey

duck fight song. I'm not kidding. There's a whole Yeah,

how does the mascot look? Like like a gooey duck? Well, what direction is the siphon pointed up? Oh, Jesus. Like what? What kind of a sexual Dean and or president of the university allowed this to happen? Either that or what kind of just nut job? Regrets What do kids want? Desperately? Case one can we joke it is you'll have to live with a kid I don't I don't go to the football games. You know what I mean? Is that's got to be how it happened.

Oh man, this can't be real the fight song lyrics I don't even know

if all right Jackie, give me some of your musician skills. Give me the fights. I'm

not gonna sing it but I'll say

I can't do it. It's got to be family oriented. It's a college fight song

go gooey ducks go through the mud in the sand. Let's go siphon Hi, squirted out. Swivel all about let it all hang out. Oh, this is real. Oh, my Washington State.

Oh my god. Oh my god. Sorry. It's horrific. It's bad. It's terrible. Oh my god. You You have defiled Washington. What does it Washington What is it Washington State Washington State Evergreen State College Evergreen State College you have defiled a delicious animal with your innuendo. Anyways. So under flavoring oysters, actually, the by the way, I'm just gonna say this up front. This is news to Natasha as well as myself because I just thought of it just now. flavoring oysters using flavored seawater analogues was the very, very first post on cooking issues.com. It was, in fact, I came up with that trick. And then I'm like, we should have a blog to write this stuff down. So it's the very, very first post on the Cooking issues. And you know what I realized stuff just now and I'll talk about a second thing but it's like, I'm never going to have the time again in my life to write cooking issue style posts. It's just not going to happen. How many times have I said I want to try and do it and I can't because all those posts They're like two or 3000 words, right, and more sometimes four or 5000. And they're all like, we had to do extensive extensive research. And really, I was only capable of doing that when my job was to come up with that kind of stuff for the French Culinary Institute. So, you know, nowadays, I don't really have the time to, to devote to just writing that length of, even if I were to come up with the idea of writing that length of dialogue on stuff, so I shouldn't pretend that and we should just close cooking issues like archive it, never pretend that it's gonna go live again. It was what it was. And you know, we have the content, it's there, the content will stay up. And then if ever, you know, I decide to have some sort of online presence other than the radio show and and twitter then we'll do some some new concepts and new new format because we won't be able to do the cooking issues and rather than change with that was just kind of leave it as a document. Winning sounds good. So all right, rip cooking issues blog. Well, Paul can parking to you but I think like it we've poems, by the way, who's the our good friend who is the AC is the head like, like chief online at I don't know what his title is. popular sites he runs. He runs their web presence, fundamentally. And he's a really good guy, and maybe we'll do something someday maybe you know, with with Paul, because he's a good guy. But I think we should change the format. You know, something less something more spontaneous, less. Less.

We try that didn't work. No,

I mean, not as cooking issues. Just like, you know, just like, like a random thoughts thing that anyone that's working with us can put stuff up or something like this thing. I don't need to devote. I mean, it's whatever. Anyway, I think we should just have it be what it was. And that's it. Yeah, you don't I mean, cooking issues lives on in the radio show. Jack, did you know that?

Yeah, exactly. Okay,

so back to oysters, it was a very first post on Oh, that used to be my iPad was the very first post on cooking issues. And the concept was this I read somewhere that oysters don't, I was reading about the physiology of oysters, because that's the kind of crap I do. And, you know, it came to my attention that oysters won't feed in a refrigerator is just too cold that you need to be in a kind of a mid range temperature for it to feed. But you also don't want it to feed over, I forget what the number is, I'm going to make it up let's somewhere in the 60s 50s or 60s, because then you start having problems of growing Vibrio toxin, right? So it's this middle line thing. And then I realized, well, look, if I can get oysters to feed at a temperature that's just above refrigeration temperature, I can maintain that temperature with a with either a circular standing bath. And turns out you don't need a circulator, we can maintain it, right. And that's it. Well, what do they feed on, they feed on seawater, so I can get aquarium salt, because at the time I had a saltwater aquarium, and I had a bunch of aquarium salt. And you could just mix up, you could take whatever you want. And the thing we settled on was carrots and Cardamone, like carrot juice and cardamom. And you have to put it through a very fine filter. Because if you clog if you clog and oysters, gills with particles, and it's a small particle size, it's some some I forget exactly what it is. But it's somewhere in the range of 10 microns, 1015 microns, something like this, and vitae preps not going to get anything below about 20 microns in that range. I don't know what a champion says juicer plate is that but anyway, we I have a rotor stator homogenizer. So I use that to get the particle size down really low, you could probably just do a decent filter on it and get it through then added aquarium salt to get it up to the base salinity that I wanted. And then you place the oysters in it, and you let them feed for a couple of hours. And then you aced them down again, you don't want to keep them in the bath for too long. Because even it's possible and I spoke to an oyster physiologist about this, it's possible for the oyster to grow bacteria that are not harmful to it. So the oyster will still appear healthy, but could be harmful to you. For instance, you know, Vibrio, but that's not going to grow in the conditions that we that we have here anyways. So, so we chose that. And we did it also with clams. We did we do so as bacon onion or something like that we did like bacon, onion and clams. And when you practice, you practice a bunch you can get to the point where like 75% of your oysters are eating the stuff. And you want to spread them out in the lair. And you don't want to disturb because if you disturb them, they shut up. Like like a clam or an oyster does. Yeah, that's what they're that's what they do. And then what you do is you wash them off, right? And then you pack them on ice and then when you shut them, they're bright orange on the inside, which is awesome. And then a couple of people have tried this. I don't know if anyone's ever done it for a service in a restaurant. But it was like kind of my first trick not my first trick cooking trick, obviously. But the first one we wrote up on the blog so you can go look at it on the Cooking issues, which is now archived. Yeah. So anything good happening this week says

Are we doing anything? Huge now?

I feel like we did a bunch of stuff last week was I away last week that go somewhere last week. Now we were here. We did some event. And now we did some event I can't remember though. We we got some I don't want to say this, but I feel like I have to repeat we're gonna start getting pretzels. I think it was all about that all series all all the time. Oh no, because last week is the week I got back from tales, right? I got back on the Sunday or the Saturday and then last week. If we feel like we had a big event we always have like, it's not a water we can't have a week without any American deals. Yeah. Anyway, my point is, is that we got word from our factory that they will complete the production. Now, I'm not guaranteeing this. This is what they say. Complete production on the 15th of August and we're shipping by air so it's gonna get here super fast. You had your book party? Oh, yes. Oh, that's true. My book. By the way. I've seen the color stuff. They're pre printed in China. And I should have advanced color copies in in like a month. It arrives in October and then sells in November. Should be fun, right? Well, not really. Nothing's fun.

That's exciting. It's exciting.

I'll give you exciting.

I hear croissant being eaten,

Jack because now you know what it's like stars to have you seen them? Guilty as costante. Like, stars. What are your thoughts on Christo?

I like chocolate filled croissants. That's it. You don't like a

regular question? What? I don't know. What do you have against flaky

skits and all that it's just

it's what plain? Plain?

You might actually be the first person I've ever met that doesn't like regular croissant.

And PS PS nothing like a biscuit. If you're a croissant. If your question was like a biscuit

now just like the white flaky thing, you know?

How do you work with me if you don't like white flaky things? Boom, burn. Burn. Okay, so we got some questions in from Sam was questions we asked answer some of last week. Can you run through any tips for excellent sauteed vegetables? We're kind of sauteed vegetables do you like most most zucchini? I was about to say first tip don't try to saute zucchini. Boom because that stuff so if you want to like the the best way to cook zucchini is to not cook it at all. Yeah, the yeah, that's my favorite cooking technique for this

evening. I think if you hollow it out, keep it whole hollow it out and stuff it with me ground beef. Yeah,

that's good. And you roast it. Yeah. You know, saute that sucker. You roast a roast. That sounds good. All right. Another way you can do it is if you like like dehydrate that thing. So that the waters out of it like cut it thin part dehydrate that sucker. But then if you soak if you saw taking too much oil suck, it's going to absorb oil like a sponge, and then it's going to suck. You know what I mean? So you have to like, crush it. But you know what? I'll talk sauteed because I know Mills is gonna go crazy on sauteed vegetables, I'll say sauteed vegetables when we're talking to knows about the about the bone marrow because that'll be fun to engage him on some sauteed vegetables stuff. Also, people have different things like another one of the cooking issues posts like sauteed mushrooms, right everyone like the old sort of, you know, I forget who it was whether it was Robo Shan or one of those guys gone? Yeah, one of those dudes. One of those fancy famous French dudes was like, the ultimate would be to saute a single mushroom at a time. Right? Because everyone's like, everyone was like, you know, look, if you saute the mushrooms, they're gonna sweat and you're not gonna get a nice crust bull crap, it's crap. What you want to do is you want to swamp those mushrooms when you're cooking them so that they get rid of their water and they're boiling the water out getting rid of the water and not absorbing oil. If you saw take mushrooms wide open in a pan. They get rid of the water Sure, but then they're still relatively porous from the water expelling when they start drying out and they soak up a lot more oil. Not that soaking up oil is bad but most people don't want like a greasy greasy mushroom sponge. Do you want a greasy mushroom sponsor? No you don't. So what you do that you know there is you saute them in a huge you know huge amounts they boil off all the water and then after they start getting down to the bottom then they can really color up without getting rid of any water at all and without absorbing that much oil because they've already densified which is another trick vegetables that are porous you don't want to absorb too much oil right? You want to get them fairly pre densified before you do your saute on them because otherwise they're gonna absorb oil as you as you saute them but it will talk to we'll talk more with with nose as he comes in your second question though, is interesting because it's about something that stars hates and something that both stars and I hate and I hope all of you hate as well. Our beets not the tilapia of the vegetable world. How, what am I doing wrong or what's a good cooking method for beats and stuff? What are your thoughts on the beats?

I don't like them you know that? I do. but not really like that's the only time I haven't seen you finish an entire

I'm not going to call out whose beats they were doesn't matter. It doesn't matter because that's not what's important to certain. I did have a I did have a the

way that they were served though. It was like pull it out of the ground. Right? Yeah. Wash it off. Yeah.

I've in for like 15 minutes and then like, and then like quarters. Yeah. Not small beat the big stars where they beat the size of like a like a supermarket radish. No, no.

Like, like a large one of those large plastic. Baseballs

like a wiffle ball like it was like in quarter wiffle balls, quarter wiffle balls,

no salt,

no salt, no salt, like, and let me just say that was not good.

I've never seen you not finish

it. I was like, Well, here's the weird thing because beats for me are like beats for me. Like I can deal with a crunchy beat and an identity but like soft on the outside and hard on the inside with that dirt flavor, which is what we're about to talk about. Right? So the problem with Beats have several problems. But the main problem is that dirt that dirt Earth dirt, Earth flavor. Actually I like beets. I like pickled beets. Yeah, well, yeah. And I like a fully roasted beet. And I like like Apple soaked in beet juice. Now those red old steakhouse apples. Jack and I'm talking about the Oh, yeah, good, right. Anyways, I like all that stuff. Prefer, you know all the pastry chefs prefer cane sugar. Do you know that? No, they say that the beet sugar whatever however they produce it I don't know whether it's true or false but they say that it's not as good for candy making could be horse crap. Probably is anyway. But that's not what I'm talking about. So the thing and beats that is probably off putting to you other than the fact that it stains your hands if you're using the red ones. It's horrible stain your hands right now as bad as Tumeric which is I made that last week at the house and I stained some stuff in my jam was like my wife was like, you weren't kidding you stained. Are you stained the cutting board? I was like yes I did. I was like I and whatever. And I did it at I talked I talked about that already. I did the Tumeric drink at the month Leone where it tells you the cocktail. Because all that room at the monthly on was a rental we talked about me I was getting arrested at the Mandalay on. Now if we have time we'll talk about me almost getting arrested at the minute. Okay, anyway, the chemical in beats is Jasmine. It's the same chemical which is at play said that grows in tilapia, or that President tilapia that makes it taste muddy and some catfish. However, in when it comes in fish, it's the product of bacteria that the it's a bacterial byproduct that they eat produced by mowbot by bacteria, beets, it was not known until very recently whether or not beets produce their own Jasmine or whether or not Jasmine or Jeb who cares. You guys know I can't pronounce anything. I wasn't known until recently, whether beats produce it on their own, or whether there's bacteria that grow around beats, it's causing it to have that flavor but Lu at all in 2003 and the paper biosynthetic origin of jasmine and red beets proved that it is produced endogenous endogenously meaning that the beats actually produce their own Jasmine and here is the first clue for you on how to make beats not suck so dang hard. The jasmine concentration is six times higher in the appeal than in the Pope. So when you get rid of the skins, whether you buy if you're roasting, you're probably gonna do it afterwards, right? But when you're getting rid of the skins, get rid of the skins don't just like take a little bit of layer off the outside get rid of enough skin to get rid of most of the jobs and then here's another thing do you think there's a reason why beets are often served in acidic sauces or in acidic pickles or and things like that you ever think about that stuff? The reason is, is because Jasmine breaks down in the presence of acidity and which is why you add it to tilapia while it's just add some flavor to that muddy piece of crap trash. But but anyway so Jasmine, if it's heated and acidity will break down. So acidity is going to help if you want to do like a post finish with like a sucky in a in an acid kind of environment that should help and also the acidity probably helps cover up the smell of that stinky Earth thing but the best beat I've ever had was made by a friend of mine Mike Sharon, who is a chef out in Chicago and I don't know whether it was originally his idea and ideas and food idea or whatever but he par dehydrated the beets then sauce them and then roasted them and it had a kind of a chewy meaty texture. And that was the best MPT I've ever had in my life. That's the first time in my life. I like beets fine, you know when they're bare properly, not like quarter wiffle balls, you know, like flash flash cooked quarter wiffle balls. But like this was the first time where someone served me like a beet salad. And I was like, Holy crap, I could eat as much of this beet salad as they have in the house,

because still waiting for that moment for me. Yeah, well, you know, like, like,

you have to have eaten with me. But like, I get in these modes where like, I go ate ape lipstick on things like, you know, I've been known to eat like, I don't know, like 20 Grapefruit, you know what I mean? It's like, if I'm like, Man, this grapefruit is delicious. Like, I can just keep eating it. And I felt that way about this Beet Salad anyway. And one more quick question. He has never gonna go to the whoever caller we'll call her. Yes. All right. Caller you're on the air.

Hello, Dave. How are you? Doing? All right. This is Steve from Indiana. And Indianapolis. And I had a few quick questions for you about technology. One being the VacMaster VP 112 Do you think it's worthwhile to purchase out if I'm not going to be doing retextures ation? Some things I just want something that I can vacuum. Liquids with the meat or whatever in Suvi? Cook it?

How much does it cost?

It was 509. I mean, it's just the drive pump?

Yeah. It just seems to me to be in between cost. You know what I mean? Like I've never used it someday I'll get a hold of one. And I'll use it or vai that, uh, you know who the who I used to work with the French Culinary Institute. They sent the FCI one or the ICC, whatever they're called now, and they sent him one and he seems to like it. I've never used it. I mean, by all accounts it's better than the FoodSaver but it's just in that for me in that uncomfortable in between price sound you know what I'm saying? Like,

isn't a comfortable price so I'm like 2500 for like a decent like something that can actually pull 99% Plus back you

know, closer to 15 I think if you get if you get the right deal, I haven't shopped one in a long time. But you can get one I think with a decent pump for closer to 15 So in other words, it's like 99 bucks 500 bucks, or 1500 bucks like those are your choices. And like so for me but maybe it's closer to two I don't know I have to look at you know like depends on what kind of deal you can get it you know, Phillip Preston has a new one out new as of last year, but I still haven't tested it yet. Um, that is not the mini pack that he also sells. I have a mini pack and I like it the small mini pack. But you know Phillip Preston. He released a I think it's $1,000 unit or one? That's right around 1000 bucks, but I've never used it. I don't know. The question is, why do you want it? If it's just for cooking? Right? Most things can be done in zips. If it's for preservation, then sure fine. They're, you know, they're going to be fine. Like what like, Why is it you specifically want to vacuum? Well,

okay, so I got a one of the fancier immersion circulators I used to work at a kitchen shop. And so I got I pretty much abused my discount there and got a bunch of kitchen gadgets. And now I'm going into medical school. So I really want something that I can have in the fridge just ready to go and drop into a bath. Additionally, my brother and my dad had some of the food that I cooked like in 48 or 48 Somebody to our short ribs spareribs that I you know, then grilled and things like that. And they were just fascinated by how convenient it was. But when I went over to my dad's house, I got him one a Sancerre. He was cooking, like each steak and like a cup and a half of oil. And so I really want to like I want to get something that I can just give him the meat and have them drop it in and not waste. Like I think he went through a half liter of oil that

day. Yeah. I mean, people tend to overestimate how much oil you need and a zippy by like, a good amount, like you need. Yeah, you only need enough to make up the bank. Would you say?

I told her what the washer dryer I showed them water submersion technique, and he still did, like massive amounts of oil. But go ahead. Sorry.

Yeah, no, I'm saying like, you know, one thing that was cut down, but in the end, no circumstances, I've heard that, that that that that that VP, whatever it is, works fine. I've never had any personal experience with it. But you know, as a kind of a mid range vacuum. I hear it's a lot better than the FoodSaver. Let's put it that way. Okay, well, I don't I can't, I won't recommend anything I haven't used personally, you know what I'm saying?

But if I'm gonna eventually upgrade to something that I can actually do retexture stations and things like that infusions, whatever, I might as well just go all the

way. Yeah. Or you could get this one and then give it to your dad. Yeah, that's true. That's true. You put your teeth on this one and then give it to your dad when? When the you know, or I mean, I don't know. I don't know what your but your budgets are. But you know, what I find in life is that if I really want a piece of equipment, and then I buy the lesser version of that piece of equipment, I'm never happy and I end up always I always, always end up getting the good did one in the end? And then the question is, will you be kicking yourself for having also purchased the lesson one? That's what you have to tell yourself. If you're anything like me, that's what will happen to you.

That makes sense. Yeah. Okay, so you have a little bit more time, sorry. Okay. I was looking into cryo milling techniques because my girlfriend's gluten free humans are trying to figure out ways to do super fine flowers without spending an hour a day tossing and I'm gonna like, and so I don't in Indianapolis, it's very hard to source liquid nitrogen. I'm a chemist, and I have access to doors and things like that. So that's fine, but sourcing the actual liquid nitrogen and not sealing it to work is another. There's another situation. So can I do the same thing with dry ice, or am I going to run into a problem with the moisture content actually contained in ice?

Well, I mean, the problem with dry ice as opposed to liquid nitrogen is that you know, it's not very good at contact, you know, cuz you can't just submerge something in dry ice, you know what I'm saying. So you can get the stuff cold by putting it in a box, but then you have the additional problem of you, you tend to get a lot of condensation unless the dry ice is unless unless you storing something in a box with desiccant and then throwing a chunk of dry ice in and then letting it chill all the way down. And then and then milling it, you tend to get a lot of condensation from the air on anything that's freezing, that heart is not submerged, you know what I'm saying? Which is one of the reasons why I don't really like using dry ice even for like distillation runs because I tend to condense a lot of stuff out of the air whereas liquid nitrogen ends up being pretty clean for me that way, because you can do total submersion but my my real question is Is Where are you trying to like why is it hard to source where you are because that's something of general interest to me is ease or lack of ease of sourcing liquid nitrogen you tried the welding shops won't won't help you out?

I actually don't know I guess I don't know where to start. Like I looked online and I typed in liquid nitrogen, Indianapolis whatever. I mean, that's probably not a good way to do it. Yeah. I was looking for foodgrade dry eyes because actually at work when we when I use dry ice and my cold finger, my roadmap, there's just a bunch of stuff left behind. So you definitely need like, I mean, I think that that Bryce is kind of an exception. Liquid nitrogen I think is pretty pure, regardless from a welding shop, but I just Yeah, I need to I need to go and investigate a little further, I think

yeah, welding shop, welding shop. And by the way, like, so you know, the classic dry ice, dry ice acetone bath for roto VABs. I don't particularly like them. Because especially in the kind of work that I'm doing, there's a lot of water phase in the in the stuff that I'm distilling. And the dry ice is so cold and unless I suck a partial vacuum, before I chill down the cold finger, I get massive amounts of condensation in because the way that the beauty cold fingers designed, the vacuum takeoff line is right next to the condenser finger. And so it unless you have a inlet, if you chill it before you suck a vacuum, I get a lot of crystallization in the end to take off from my backline. And then I occlude my vacuum. And then once that happens, all hell breaks loose loose with your distillation, it's very hard to get back on track without losing flavor. If you're doing it for food, not for lab work, you know what I mean? Right, and so liquid nitrogen because it is actually somewhat less powerful even though it's a lot colder than dry ice, I find to be easier. And if I make a mistake, I can rectify it quickly. It's just not as messy. I've never I've never liked working with dry ice in my role of that very much. But yeah, so I would go to a welding shop and this the secret is that you know, at least around here the welding shops also sell to medical places. So they have you know, theoretically for instance, they have different grades of nitrous so like the my local welding shop sells nitrous to doctors. And a lot of it isn't really the purity of the supply gas. It's the care with which they purge the tanks and make sure that the lines that they use for transfer aren't contaminated with things like oils or or other nasty things. Okay. So a lot of these guys will supply hospitals and clinics and things like this. And so you know, I wouldn't worry I wouldn't worry overly much and every single chef in New York City gets from one of two welding shops McKinney or TW Smith one of those two. That I know Okay,

excellent. I'll check into it. And if I hear anything about where you can get good liquid nitrogen in Indianapolis, I'll tweet it to you or something so that so that people other people who listen to you in Indianapolis can know. Cool. And the last thing is you said that you were a homebrewer on point.

Oh, a long time ago yeah.

But did you ever do water adjustments?

What do you mean? So

like you would start with our water and then you would water adjust based on?

Oh no, like bourbon salts and stuff like that. No me not like I like most of the stuff most experiments that I was doing I was you know, I kind of drew a base level of what I was going to like deal with and so like I my assumption was New York City tap water. And then I was working mainly on on mash temperatures times and and like, you know, the the grain bill that went into it and you know, messing with OG and yeast and things like that, like, I never I never got to the point where I was messing with the with like the salts and the chemistry of the of the water. I was just using filtered, you know, obviously the chlorinated filter New York City tap, but I never I never deionized it or removed oops, fair, our water is very, very soft here. So, you know, maybe maybe it wasn't ideal, I don't know, but then you know, that would have been something I probably would eventually have gotten into but I you know, but But when my second son DAX was born, it was just like, it was just too much to obliterate the house because I was doing all green stuff and it really wipes an apartment out I was in a very small apartment at the time really makes a mess in the apartment.

Well and see I have half a garage that I have for brewing equipment and it feels like the entire half a garage so yeah, I completely understand. Okay, I was just curious if you ever heard of anybody using modern assaults and it like the calcium lactate and calcium lactate glutamate instead of the calcium chloride that people are using, but

someone you know, call or tweet in and we'll, we'll talk about it even though it's a little outside of my depth.

Excellent. Sounds great. Thanks, Dave.

All right. All right. Let's go to our first commercial break back with Niels Noren.

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Jack that's like the music from like when like the couple in that like in that like kind of southern country show like they're just about to get together they're headed towards the barn but nothing kind of raunchy is happening yet.

That's what that music is the pre love music. Yeah,

see it? It's the it's the country western TV like movie pre love music.

Let me give a shout out that's a band called The hollows. They're local, they're friends of the network. And all the music we play here is local and you know source from friends. So if you're a listener of the show, and you have a band or music project, email us send your music

especially if you need some pre love because that's gonna that's gonna seal the deal if look, if you have a barn within about like a 200 meter radius of you will like a hayloft like that's the music the crank. It's gonna happen. That's the that's the reignition of being near a barn.

It doesn't get hurt. And hey, though,

I don't know anything. I didn't want to get that ID you know,

I'm gonna guess. Yes.

I mean, I'm sure there are different qualities of hay, probably. But it's it's the proverbial roll in the hay. That's where you're hiding away from the farmer. Bad. Definitely dad, while presumably back in the day for talking stereotypes. All right. So do we have we have Mills weed You all right nails. Hey, how you doing? Going? Well, so this is Neil's Noren. You know who did some of my best work with mills? No, we're now running the Marcus Danielson Restaurant Group, is that your official title running the Marcus Samuelsson Restaurant Group? What? Like what's your official title over there?

Yeah, efficiency title is VP of restaurant operations.

So how many how many restaurants? Did you open this week? That was the question we had earlier

this week, but this month, but three for real? Yeah.

How many different countries

to actually actually three, Bermuda, Sweden and Norway, so

Oh, which one? Weren't you counting before? Norway? Norway, Norway. Norway. You know, for those of you that don't know, you know, nose is a Swede. So they have that Swedish Norwegian stuff. Give me Give me Give me the Norwegian pronunciation of Myhrvold. Medieval Yeah. Oh, man. All right. So knows I'm going to read this question, and then we're going to talk about it. And then afterwards, we'll talk a little bit about sauteed vegetables because I know you're very opinionated about the Sunday vegetables as well. Here's the question from Justin. I have a question about bone marrow specifically regarding preparation for service. I've just taken charge of the kitchen following the resignation of our executive chef resignation, huh? Yeah. Yeah, whatever, then deals we know how that goes. Right. Okay. Yeah, exactly. Yeah, the resignation of our executive chef and have been tasked with creating a bar menu. I want to include a roasted marrow bones but don't have a ton of experience with them. And neither do i That's why we're calling knows now knows your big prep used to used to serve a lot where you would like slow braise them out and then use the fat and things right. That was your favorite thing to do. Yeah, yeah. It's delicious. Yeah. I forget what you use to mix it in with when you are done.

Oh, thanks. Bone marrow aim to raise delicious.

Yeah. Used to what it was, what was it wasn't the celery root was it? What do you use to add sunchoke sunchoke in bone marrow? Yeah. Yo, this is hilarious. Natasha and Piper back and pipe was working with they did a slow cook on sunchokes and ate all of the sunchokes slope quickly cooked. They only cooked it for like 15 minutes and they ate like half a pound each. How hilarious is their gastrointestinal distress?

That's not a great idea.

Yes, it knows what like render out the marrow. Now remember it, he would submerge the central kitchen and cook cook them low and slow, long time to turn this stuff into insulin so that it's not a huge fork mom. But you know, style has never asked me before she could pull stuff out whatever. And then meals. I don't know if I told you this. But she then did the same thing on purpose and served it to a friend and his girlfriend at a picnic. And she and Piper did not eat it and just watched them eat all the sunchokes while they ate around and they did a beef and sunchoke like cold picnic salad and did it to them and didn't warn them. I think that's kind of not cool. What do you think?

I guess they're not friends anymore.

Yeah, I mean, they're also kind of low quality people. So anyway. Okay. So anyway, I've this so we're back to the bone marrow question. I follow the general rule of soaking the bone marrow in the bones in cold salt water with multiple water changes. But most recipes I found Do you agree with that multiple soak?

Yeah, I mean, you just want to get the blood off right?

That's gross. That's why Yeah. Like how long do you have to do it to get them like really creamy

to get them to roast them? No, no,

to get all the blood out? Like how long do you usually let them

I mean, I don't know. A couple of hours usually is enough.

Yeah. So I figured but most recipes I found suggest roasting the bones for around 20 minutes at 450 in the Fahrenheit which is what is that? That's like 220 or something like that? Yeah. However, I need a much quicker pickup. Is this something I can safely Park cook with good results, or do you know any techniques for faster pickup? I'm planning on using three inch bone split lengthwise and we'd like to be able to send them out in under 10 minutes. I do have a circulator and I'm eagerly awaiting the arrival of my Sears all thanks for all you do keep it coming. I mean I would probably pop them separate them use that we are you a believer in like bones for plating versus the bones they come in? Or would you leave them in the bones? Where would you pop them out and then cook them separately and then lay them in the bones for service?

No, I would I would keep them in the boat. Why? Why as an extra set?

That's true. That's true. So what would you do for the park cook? I was just thinking because the bones you can't really vac that kind of a bone down because are so porous. You know what I mean? Or would you just keep them in like a sea that like what would you what would you do for Parkland nothing

sinners if it would do Got rooster, which I haven't seen that I would keep them next to my fried chicken and deceive up and then think they're going to be perfect. That's 140 and then put them into salamander or your, your turbo torch. Or if you do them in a Ziploc bag in in the circulator that probably works well too.

And you just use them in some rendered in some render keep keep the Maryland rendered Maryland just reuse it a bunch. Yeah,

I mean, keep the, put the whole bone right, right. Figure out what the right temperature is. Which I'm not sure.

But if you're gonna do it next to the chicken, what do you keep your chicken at? 60?

Yeah, yeah. Little over. But if

you keep it at the cook temperature 45 Yeah. Okay, so you, you you hold it at the cook temperature? Yeah, yeah. Okay. So, yes, but that's going to be fine. It's not going to it's I don't think it's going to break the structure down at those temperatures. I think you have to get it harder to break the structure down, don't you? Yeah,

I do. Yeah,

I mean, I think it's gonna hold I think it's gonna be fine. And then like a quick flash off on it with the hottest thing that you own. And I think it's going to be good. It won't have the look of a roasted bone on the outside though. It just on the top where you see it off? You think that's a problem or no?

No, no, I mean, you could I mean, no, I think it's fine. If you do an under topic. What does it matter? What does the other engrossing do? Well, it smells good. It

also depends on how clean you've gotten the bone beforehand. You know what I mean? Yeah, like, so like, you can do a worse job cleaning the bone. If you're going to roast the hell out of it. Because no one minds a little piece of like, like skin or a silver skin or meat stuck to a bone. That's if it's roasted to hell. But nobody wants like a blond looking piece of junk stuck to the outside of their bone. You know what I mean? No, that's true. So you clean you got to clean it.

Yeah. But you pick up it's gonna be fast. Oh, you're two minutes and it's out.

Yeah, yeah. And like, you know, for something like that. Like hopefully you have like a deck boiler or Sally. I think a Sally is good because you're not worried about overcooking it so much. And so like, even better than a Sears walls might that I think is going to be I mean, I don't think it's going to bleed out too much on a Sally if you have it right in the sweet spot. Sears all work, obviously. No, but I don't think it's gonna bleed out too much in Sally. You know what I mean? No, I don't think so. Yeah, I think it'd be site. And Alright, so then it probably a bone. I'm looking at my hands at the bone. What? I think it would probably be ready to serve within like, four minutes. Four, zero minutes.

Yeah, I mean, but you might as well put it in an hour before because nothing's gonna happen.

Oh, yeah. Yeah, but I'm saying like, minimum 40 minutes, I would say. Yeah, you know what I mean? Because remember, it's only cooking through the one side because the it's not gonna heat up that fast through the bone. But I think once it's in there, it can stay in there, like probably all service. I mean, I've never done it, but I think it could probably stay in there all service.

I would bet.

The only thing I'd be worried about is if you cool it and reheat it and make it like oxidized. I wouldn't necessarily do that unless it's in a bag and closed. But yeah, but whatever. I think it would work. You know what I like on my bone marrow. I like parsley. On my bone marrow. You like chopped up parsley on your bone marrow? Nose? Parts. It's delicious. And yeah, and I also like a little bit of lemon zest, but that's me. Okay, so then we have another question. Can you run through any tips for excellent sauteed vegetables and our first tip was don't sauteed zucchini? Because it's horrible.

Yeah. I mean, the only way you're going to do it is if you Goertzen right. Take some of the the water out of it. Right. Then it can be okay.

Yeah. But let me ask you this. If you could have a sauteed carrot, or a sauteed or a sauteed piece of zucchini. Would you ever chooses zucchini?

Nope.

No, you wouldn't. I mean, it's like straight up. You know? I think look I think by and large and we already talked about you know before you were wrong we talked about you know what we used to do with the with the mushrooms. Mushrooms are a special case because they're not a veggie they're not a vegetable they're a fungus they break down differently so they maintain their structure even over a long cooking period which is why you can cook them nicely in a saute without without them losing structure and you can get a nice crust on the outside and you can get the water balance right very difficult to do this with spongy vegetables in general right when you say so nose like zucchini. Eggplant.

That's why carrots works great. Yeah, but

no, no, I mean but like also like I'm not a huge fan of sauteed eggplant, you

know, the only way I like my eggplant is to really cook through. If they're not cooked soon it says like to me. Hey before,

not in a good way tastes like a what do your phone froze for a second?

Yeah, it just says like, hey, just did not click through. So again, if you want to gorge them, you know, and then as a team, it might work,

or like we used to do in the vacuum or like people who microwave them. But the issue is, is that water can't see zucchini and eggplant both suffer from the problem, like a two part problem. They're spongy. Like right out of the gate. They're spongy. So they're going to absorb oil. And then most people when they're saw Tang, they're so worried about the temperature dropping too low that they overheat the oil and the oil takes on those fishy burnt aromas which I hate. Right? Like unless you're doing wok cooking, and you like really do it right. Like the overcooked oil on a saute. I think smells nasty. What do you think knows?

I think you know what I think yeah. All right. I couldn't agree more. Yeah. You know, we didn't used to do a lot of tequila.

Right? Right. So spongy geiko. And then also anything that's not sponge is water. So it's like, if you can't win, you know what I mean? Like they have very little structure. So, I mean, I think those things are much better. All those things are much better roasted, where you can sit there and let the like vapor although not zucchini but eggplant. But you know, let let it let all the water get out of it or whatever. But those are my tips. Choose the right vegetables. Do you have any like big tips for like saw Tang. I think like, if you're not paying a carrot, just don't do don't do a bad job. You know, I think is like the big tip. I always cheat. I always throw a little bit of water in. I always cheap throw the water in the pan. Let it let it flash off par cook and then saute after the water evaporates. But is that considered like a jerks technique? I mean, a restaurant you wouldn't do that. But I mean at home?

No, I mean, you can or you're just sipping then until you have the right color. Then you're finishing up them in the oven.

Now Yeah, they could do that too. That's probably better because you're not absorbing any water. You probably keep them more dense. You probably keep them more getting more dense flavor. So tan for color and then finish them in a not too hot oven. Like 350 or something. Yeah. Yeah. Just throw the pan in the oven. Right? Just saute it till you get the color you like throw the pan in the oven and walk away. Just be aware that you might take a while for it to finish off in the oven.

Yeah, it might depending on how big it's gonna be fine on that and then you can park with them and finishing up later.

Yeah, that's a good point. All right. So I think Jack's gonna kick us off the off the radio pretty soon. I have a couple of questions by Eric Michael Morris was wrote in last week about sugar free gelato didn't didn't clarify what he wants, so we can answer that. And then the rest of stuff we can get to next time so anything anything good going on Neil's in the cooking world come up with any new new flavors, new ideas you want to talk about on the radio show?

Nothing that comes to mind. Yeah, I'm gonna have some soon. I'm actually working on stuff. Earliest. Yeah. It's close them.

Alright, well, why don't you come back in person some time hanging out on the radio show you ever you ever free on the Tuesdays around 12? Yeah, for sure. Yeah, cool. And Jack, by the way, tells me that we might be switching our times. Next Next season, whatever the season is. I've no idea what the season is. But we might be switching our times a little bit. But, Neil, thanks for coming and answering all of our bone marrow questions. We'll see y'all next time on cooking issues.

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