Cooking Issues Transcript

Episode 177: Cement & Caramel


Hello, everybody, and welcome to a brand new series on heritage radio network called the culinary call sheet where we give a peek into the back kitchen of culinary media. I'm your host, April Jones,

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Hello, and welcome to cooking issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of cooking issues coming to you live on Roberta's pizzeria in Bushwick on the heritage radio network with Natasha the hammer Lopez and jackings Lee in the engineering booth. How you doing

guys? Good? How do you have that much breadth? And you have to ride your bike here?

I don't know, you know what? Well, before I get into the bike colinear question is 27184972128 That's 718-497-2128. And now back to your question, Jack. You know, you know that everyone who bikes in this neighborhood, they know that there's a like a block and a half from here is a giant cement factory, you know, this deck, the giant Senate. And something I hate driving past it because whenever I drive past it, like even though I'm breathing through my nose, like you know, I'm inhaling concrete dust and always, like I'm fine all the way here up and down the bridge, I could get off and do the radio show IT admins knows, bypass that concrete factory. And it's like all of a sudden my mouth is totally shafted. They're spraying Portland cement dust into the atmosphere at a ferocious rate. But I realized something else. You know, you know for those of you that are fans of Neil Diamond, you know, the Brooklyn road song we mentioned on the show before Brooklyn roads anyway, you know that you know the sunrise does. Neil Diamond. Yeah. Okay. Jack here Neil Diamond fan.

Now the Neil Diamond is worried sorry.

Brooklyn roads, Brooklyn roads. You're thinking of LA times some of the time. Yeah, no, this is Brooklyn roads. It's entirely different song not as popular. But so I always thought it was laughable because we would write Batista's won't ride her bike here anymore because she took a tumble on Bushwick Avenue once and Bushwick Avenue and I've mentioned this before it's like kinda like a slalom course. But then like It's like look seriously it's like it's a it's totally like moguls out it potholed out muddled out and then there's giant blocks of concrete, just in the middle of the bike lane, right? Yeah, and then like a month and a half ago, Jack I don't know if you were biking around here. You bike right?

I I have a car.

So why would I buy whatever anyway, I'm gonna have

to move it every morning for alternate side parking anyway. I know.

Anyways, sorry. Yeah, yeah, well used to be partial zero emissions vehicles. If you heard of this partial zero emissions vehicle, it's not zero emissions. My I my Subaru is it says P A C partial P ze v partial zero emissions vehicle. Hey Listen people every car is zero emissions when you have it turned off What the hell is a partial is their partial zero? You know I'm part you know without making sense that make any sense to you at all? No no, no partial partial med but anyways, so about a month ago maybe you didn't notice this even though you were on a car maybe two months ago now. They totally repave the stretch of Bushwick that's near us. It was like totally sweet new blacktop. No potholes, no life ending potholes. No nothing. And I was like, man, all right, I'm gonna start making fun of broken roads. And then like the next week, the big turds like like copper like dinosaur turd fossilized chunks of concrete on the thing and I realized it was those damn cement trucks had extra cement in those freaking shoots the freakin shoots are pointed to the freakin right right? You know, so that they're not pointing into the center of traffic they're on the right and they're blocking concrete right into the frickin bike lane. And that's why there's always blobs of concrete in the frickin bike lane around here. Someone needs to someone needs to teach those weasels a lesson you know I'm saying Jack doesn't care he's driving next door with his car laughing at the people flying over their handlebars and excellent Hey, I didn't even door them here they are over their handlebars where

I've never done it anybody

it's never too late check it's never too late to Dorsa I've thankfully never set you know I did start I did pull an abrupt up stop and the guy hit me so that's as adoring that's I consider that door and I did door this poor son of it was a long time ago though. I was much younger and I've been bored so it's like I guess I paid it forward in a kind of reverse pay forward. Steel forward was it I don't know. Good day mustache at Dave and Jack when he's from France. I hope you me that is enjoyed my stay in Paris a few weeks back and you had opportunity visit a few of the places I recommended in previous email. I didn't get a chance to go to too many food things because I was with the DAX who doesn't really care much although he is now a great fan. Do you know that stuff? loves creating I had that crate maker for years he never asked for craves now he's like scrape scrape, scrape, scrape, scrape, scrape, scrape, scrape jelly we couldn't get him interested in clip Sally with you know the ham and cheese in it. You like that crap, right? Especially your Greer fan right here because stash is a funding funding fund. She loves fondue if was not gonna happen but like that's like if someone was going to ask the stars out on a date back in the day and they're like, you know, I know it's cheesy and everything but you know, would you want to go to a fondue restaurant should be like finally somebody's asking me to find the fondue places here. There used to be in the 70s when fondue was popular, back you know, whatever it was. So that's another thing that stars likes. You can put that on the list of four things stuff likes fondue. Anyway, I went to appear AMA and I think a couple of the cheese joints but I didn't get a chance to eat out at any fancy restaurants who mainly sat outside so that if there was any screaming and wailing we could just kind of curse those with taxes. Oh, he doesn't scream and wail but you know kids like they're not like always restaurant for me. Although taxes taxes Very good. Anyway. That's the question. Imagine I want to add caramel flavor into a sweet recipe. I can imagine that can you imagine that? Jackie, have you ever imagined I have it? Okay. Could I take the original amount of sugar in the recipe, cook it to a caramel, let it cool, reduce it to a powder and then follow the recipe instructions. I'm particularly interested in the effect on structure for example, sugar gives cookies a nice snap and and provide structure to egg white egg whites and Merengues with pure caramel work the same? Also, it seems that caramel binds with water definitely then sugar does it become sticky after a while? Would a cake or cookie become soggy? In general? Would you recommend I cook all the sugar into a caramel or only part of it? And how do the many components of caramel compared to table sugar, ie sucrose for sweetness. The first try will be a simple caramel flavored Marang. I'll let you know if it works. Okay, so here's the thing, right? So when you're taking sugar sucrose, which is you know, one glucose and one fructose molecule bound together and you cook it on its own or with a little bit of water until the water evaporates until it turns brown and starts breaking down you get a number of things that happened to it. Well first is you're literally breaking the sugar apart and changing it to something else. So the darker your caramel is, the more sugar you have broken down. And you know, I don't really understand what all those breakdown components are, but they're certainly not going to be as sweet so anytime that you caramelize sugar, you are reducing its overall sweetness. However, the other thing that you're doing when you're when you're doing this is you're also hydrolyzing some of the sugar into fructose and glucose you're breaking that you're breaking that that bond and you're turning it into monosaccharides. Now the difference is between the invert you're basically adding invert sugar to your recipe so you're taking what amounts to pure sucrose, which we'd know the properties of, you're converting a portion of it into invert sugar, fructose and glucose, and then your break further breaking down those inverted sugar portions into non SUGAR SUGAR breakdown products. Okay, now, to the extent that you have residual invert sugar in your, in your sugar batch, that stuff is much more hygroscopic, it's going to pull a pull up water more, so it's going to have the same effect as adding corn syrup to something like a cookie or a cake, ie it's going to increase its ability to pull water in, so you probably won't have as much snap there, you'll need to use other things to control the watery uptake. Now, the other thing I have to say is that if you look online at people that have made caramel powder, and the typical way that they do it is though, just cook sugar, and then they'll pour it into onto a sheet. they'll cook it to a specific brown note, the poured onto a sheet and remember the sugar will be sweetness will be reduced, and it will probably be more hygroscopic. And then they pulse it in a row beaucoup, until it's a powder and then you have to use that right away or it starts sticking up. However, if you look at some of the common comments on recipes like that on the on the interwebs because I haven't I haven't really I've never had an occasion to actually do this myself. But if you look at a lot of the common comments, people were like, it tastes kind of good, but it didn't really add that caramel flavor that I wanted to the recipes I was looking at. And then it dawned on me that when you say when one says caramel, and since you're in France, maybe you don't have this problem. But if in America, when you say caramel to someone, they don't really think caramelized sugar unless they're talking about something on top of a creme brulee. Typically when an American says caramel they mean caramel candy which is kind of like a toffee like candy that we eat like craft brand caramels Do you like those does? Because they're delicious. Right Jack fan of the caramels. I am you know what styles and I actually both like and we tried to imitate once we miserable failure. Remember this. So gets it's pronounced gets but it's spelled Geurts GOET Z. But it's pronounced gets I don't want to hear anyone telling me that I don't know how to pronounce ohea Oh microphysics because it's their name, they can pronounce it how they want and I happen to be pronouncing it correctly. So suck on that. But anyway, so gets makes Mike My all time all time favorite candy. Like I can eat so many of these things and stars that maybe the miracle thing is that she also likes them, which is kind of odd for both of us to like the same thing. It's like you know, I don't know. That doesn't happen. So it's called they're called caramel creams and what they are is it are like a caramel, their caramel, outside ring and a center like bullseye of like this condensed milk sugar stuff. Yeah, they're so good. So good, right check. So freakin good. And they're like the size of a little bit bigger than a quarter but smaller than a half dollar and they're cut you know, into pieces that are maybe, oh, I don't know, like a quarter inch thick or something that has a ton of those. So delicious. So stars and I, we wanted to do it where we were going to replace the bullseye with coconut flavor because we thought that would be good. And we were just we sucked at it was a scary idea though. It's good right? Now be good. And we were going to totally redo it and do a whole bunch of things. And then we just never did that probably because we're Lazy, Lazy anyway. So if you're looking to mimic the flavor of caramel, like a caramel, and they use for some reason, I believe they use wheat flour in their recipe, which is weird, but if they craft caramel, it's not caramelized sugar really that's doing that to you what you're dealing with there is the brown milk proteins because there is butter and cream, typically in at least in a homemade kind of soft caramel. And that temperatures that you're taking those. Those things too, are more of a firm ball kind of a stage. So kind of low on the candy thermometer scale because they're supposed to be soft, right and so the texture of them is coming a lot from the fat. And from the milk protein and the milk protein you're getting almost like a dose they do say delay chain kind of a flavor, but mixed with a high proportion of sugar into a stiffer thing. So that's where a lot of people when a lot of people say caramel flavor, they're associating more with a brown milk, butter and a small amount of sugar caramelization like you get into say the Litchi. And so if you're looking to imitate something like that, what you need to do is powderized caramel. And to do that you probably need to use something that it would absorb some of that butterfat so that you can incorporate it as a solid powder. And for that you could do something like absorb it brand tapioca. maltodextrin but you wouldn't want to let this stuff get totally solidified until you're done. I think there's some people online who have who've done it, hopefully with with some success. So I I would do it that way, but I would. I don't know I would I would experiment Another way is you could probably. I mean, he'd be difficult to get the milk. Did it? Did he make up there make a brown milk powder that I know anyway, but I would try. I would try doing that. So the question is, are you trying to get the flavor of caramelized sugar? Or are you trying to get the flavor of caramels. And your second question was,

I got a call here if you jump into that first caller, you're

on the air. Doing all right. How are you?

Good Antoine? Calling from Boca Raton, Florida.

Nice. How's it going? How's it down there? Is it hot as hell? Always. and humid?

Always human, I always aligned with you on how gross is?

Well, luckily for you, it's pretty gross up here today to at least, it probably wasn't that bad. But the bike over book anyway. So go ahead. You had a question? Yeah.

Basically, I've always wanted to get your ideas and thoughts on just health and nutrition more than anything else, like I like to eat, but I'm not so fond of working it off. Or I want to know what sort of things you believe as far as like health claims as to whether to reduce any of the claims or whether it's reducing complex carbohydrates, or sugars. What things do you believe in? As far as keeping a good, balanced health? I mean, I like to eat a little bit of everything, you know, but some things obviously taste better than others.

Right? I don't, I don't believe in any, any really, health claims. I mean, to be honest, I sometimes believe that specific things that have, you know, good studies in them actually cause harm. You know, like, I do kind of believe that if you consume large amounts of coffee grounds that you'll you it's possible that your cholesterol might spike because I believe they've done studies on that, you know, controlled kind of studies on it. But most of the nutritional guidelines are problematic, I think people are getting better at it over the years, you know, you know, better now than they were, let's say, 1020 years ago, but if you were to go back and follow strictly follow the kind of theoretical underpinnings of nutritional science from 15 years ago, you would be almost completely at odds with what the, with what people are saying. Now, other than the strict adherence, you know, to variety in moderation, which, you know, hasn't changed, right? Eating a reasonable amount of food in wide variety has not changed, you know, ever really. And, and but like all of this specific things, like it's, it's fat, fat is your enemy. 20 years ago, as fat was your enemy, right? And then it's Oh, cardio, carbohydrates, here are your enemy, and you can eat as much fat and protein as you want. And then it shifts around, well, now it's a specific kind of carbohydrate, or now it's a specific kind of fat. And while you know, for instance, it may be true that trans fats specifically are bad. Most people now don't believe that. fats are bad. Now, the, the problem here, so you need everyone on their sugar on their sugar cakes. Now, the problem here is that it's very hard, because if you just, you can't just throw away everything that people tell you, from a nutrition standpoint, because you're still falling back, I think onto kind of a poisoned mindset for what, you know, proper. Proper nutrition is I think, and you know, actually wrote something, we didn't submit it yet, because someone thought it was too preachy, but maybe we'll submit it to eater where it's like, you know, I think the main point is that we have a poisoned relationship towards our food in general here in the US, and I think it it alters it alters our consumption patterns, our ideas towards food, alter our consumption patterns. So instead of, instead of, like, over the course of, you know, a month or a year, two years, kind of trying to reset like what we think is sailing and good and delicious. So, you know, we, we try to take moral attitudes towards our food like our this food is good, this food is bad, this food is junk, this food is healthy, and healthy food, we kind of crave to eat it for moral reasons. But in general, things are cooked specifically to be healthy tend to suck and not be as saving. So we eat more of it. And then we cheat, we eat things that we think are junk, because we crave them. And this whole sort of poisoned attitude towards food along with a healthy healthy dose of kind of the magic bullet thinking that we get from you know, quack doctors like Dr. Oz who tell you that this or that raspberry ketone or this or that, you know, X, Y, or Z micronutrient from somewhere in South America is going to save us all from the fact that we haven't controlled or have good thoughts about our diet and you know, basically our whole lives. And so this kind of thinking of how we're going to get around the problems we have, I think, is a lot of the problem that we have. So, you know, in general, like if you were to say, Okay, I'm not going to limit what I'm going to eat and I'm going to go out and I'm going to eat whatever I want just because it takes Good. The problem is, is that when you first start doing that you're going to gravitate towards the stuff that you've been denying yourself, and you're going to overeat binge on it. And so yeah, it's going to be unhealthy after a while. So I don't know the question, how do we, how do we get ourselves back on track where we can say, Okay, I'm gonna cook to make stuff tastes good, and then I'm just not going to eat so freakin much of it, you know. And I think that's really kind of the way to go to it. I mean, to me, like, the classic snack wells problem is that someone's like, well, I'm buying these snack wells, and they're healthy. But you know, I can't just eat one or two of them. And, you know, because A, I can't eat one or two of them. Because I'm not sated and be somehow I think they're healthier for me, so I can pound the hell out of them. You know what I mean? It's just a poison relationship. And so rather than think about the particular health or nutrient basis, especially the nutrient basis, I think, you know, we're so we have so much over nutrition, nine tenths of us in this country, not nine tenths, but like, those of us with money has so much of an over nutrition problem, that, you know, that to worry about, whether you're getting this much vitamin C, or this much, whatever. I mean, it really just doesn't come up. I mean, most of us aren't deficient in anything. I'm deficient in vitamin D, because I avoid the sun as though I was a vampire. But, you know, I'm kind of odd that way. So it's, I don't know if this makes any sense. But we really what I think, you know, we should know that it can be difficult. So for instance, if you go to a supermarket, and you and you happen to live in a supermarket, that is it and live near a supermarket that's in kind of a shady area, it tends to be hard to shop, because all the stuff that you know, like when I like you know, when you go to like a really good supermarket or a farmer's market, like you see things that you know, the average, the average health Jacquard would say is healthy, and you're like, Damn, that looks delicious, that's delicious looking tomato, that's delicious looking XY and Z. And that stuff just doesn't look so delicious or satisfying at a crappy supermarket. And so you tend to gravitate towards the stuff that's, you know, shelf stable and bad quality and so that you end up eating, you know, a lot of that, and I think that throws things off. So it's, it's a complicated problem. And I guess my feelings on it are rather complicated.

It's funny, because I used to work at a raw juice bar. And right, during that time that I was working there, I was listening to your whole segment on the raw foods, and obviously, I I enjoy cooked food. But you know, I had to make a living. And as I did that, I started turning on them a little bit personal things. I was like, You didn't they're full of it a little bit. Plus, we also had five guys in front of us Hooters. And I started eating them more frequently. For whatever reason.

Well, yeah, I mean, that makes I think that that's great point. I mean, I love is this like, wish Jack we should put that on our on our on our whatever you put things on. But the thing we put things Yeah, I don't even know. I don't know what it's called, you know, somewhere out there. But the you know, I think it's really a good point, I think. And I wrote this in the in the thing that you know, that we may or may not publish, it's like a little 500 word essay. I'm like, Look, don't eat. Don't and I think I specifically said don't go eat blended kale, blueberries and spirulina. Don't drink that stuff. Because you think you drank too much last night? You know what I mean? Like, drink it, drink it if you like it, right? Buy stuff that you like, and if you drank too much last night, don't drink as much tomorrow, you know what I'm saying? It's like, like, that's the better solution, you know? Oh my god, I walked into a juice bar the other day with with you know, bartenders, by the way I don't know if you know this bartenders love these Rodgers bars because they're perpetually thinking that their which they are damaging themselves with their lifestyle. I mean, let's be honest, a lot of these folks, really, you know, they live kind of rough life. You know, I mean, if you look at, you know, rock stars, which is a much rougher version, I mean, they they don't age. Well, you know, I'm saying, in all

fairness actually went from working as a bartender to the rock star. So

yeah, well, there you have it. So So I go to with one of my bartenders to liquid Tyria, which is a raw juice bar here. And this is not really apropos. It's just a thought was so hilarious. I walk in there, and you know, I'm not going to buy I'm not going to buy like a blended, I like to eat fruit a lot. I can eat as much fruit as in a smoothie in fruit form, because I'm a weird guy. That way. You've seen me eat like, like three quarts of blueberries in a row, right? Starts with solid form, but I like blueberries a lot. But anyways, so I go in there and I'm like, Do you have any seltzer water? And the guy says that because, you know, you know, my bartender friend was having some sort of liquid monstrosity, and I said, Seltzer and he goes, No, have you tried coconut water? I was like, Is your coconut water carbonated? And he goes, No, and I'm like, Well, you know, have you tried, you know, have you tried getting you know, I'd like some seltzer water. Have you tried me punching you in the face? I mean, they're just totally unrelated. I mean, they both happened to be liquids but you know, beyond liquid form. I guess he thought I just wanted a non flavored or light liquids like no, I want a carbonated liquid without sugar. Thanks. But anyway, so I appreciate the feedback you gave me and I'm glad I pegged you without knowing so as a former bartender turned Jews person turned five guys customer. So I think you're, I think you're approaching I think you're approaching some sort of balance. I think you're like, you know, you're going through the balance, you're going through, hopefully the sinusoidal waves, like, mellow out and then you know, you get to a point where you just have like a steady, steady diet of delicious stuff in moderation. Wow. Call up a sine wave diet. Yeah. Yeah. Well, the, the damp sine wave, right, it has to go down towards it has to go down towards flat value.

Right, right. It's more like a square wave.

You don't want to you don't want Wait, no, you don't want to you want to be sinusoidal you don't want it to like be amplified over time and spool off into into into trauma. The end. You know, then you end up being like a fruitarian. You don't even which is like, like, or Jane or Jane Doe. Has anyone ever met a Jane a true, Janice?

Yeah, we had one on the on the radio station. He was in a band. Like

he's in a band. Yeah. How do you play an instrument that doesn't harm a bug? Yeah, I mean, like, I kind of have an appreciation for anyone who's like, I don't eat onions because they inflame the passions too much. What kind of music do you play? If you're a gene like It's like world music or thing, but it can't like incite the passions anyway. Right? It's all about like, ooh, like nothing right? Did he have the he or she have the bug mask on?

No. So it's kind of like I don't think it was I don't think it was so extreme, but

so didn't sweep the ground ahead of him or her? Not

quite. His name is Sunny, Sunny Jane, actually,

man. Sunny Jane from Red

Bharat, which is they call themselves party music.

I don't think James party. If you can't eat an onion on a moral basis, I don't think you can party. But we'll look it up. I mean, I'm not an expert on Jainism by any stretch. But anyway, thank you so much for your call and keep calling back. Especially if you say funny stuff about working at juice bars. Things Jack, should we go to commercial break? Yeah, I'm

also vitamin D deficient by the way. Oh, yeah. Yeah, they had to give me like prescription you know, extra strength pills. I called them son pills recently. Now a few years ago

really? Do you dip yourself in SPF 2 billion? No. See? I don't I don't either, but I wear hats and like long sleeve like a two Yeah, so as you ever you've seen pictures of like my wife has sent of me on the beach in long pants long shirt hat Sunglasses. That's me too. Yep, vampire coming back with cooking issues.

The following program was brought to you by s Wallace Edwards and sons. Edward Suriano. Hands are aged to perfection for no less than 400 days, and hickory smoked to achieve a deep mahogany color. The Edwards name is well known for its world class aged and cured meats. Their exclusive curing and aging recipe produces a unique flavor profile that enhances the quality characteristics of Berkshire poor optimum amounts of pure white fat marbling contribute to a flavor that's a delicate perfect balance between sweet and salty. For more information visit Edwards va ham.com

And I think we're all lucky there's not a barn nearby because you know that's the if there's a bar nearby with that music going it's all over. Right? My Jack is now when we said it's the it's the pre it's the it's the Country Music pre levington

There's like a shed in the back.

Now you're ruining it for us now we have to like you know, everyone needs to chain ourselves down so that we don't all run in the back by the shed. Not a real sheds Brooklyn shed

Yeah. Not really. It's not romantic.

But is for that is that is that puffy leg birds still there?

I haven't seen him in a while

there was a there's a hipster dove who lived at at Roberta's and then and then we saw another dove their pigeon really not dove pigeon anyway,

like the pigeon mysteriously disappeared right around the same time indeed. Jesus coincidence.

Wow. You think it just flew off? I don't know. Like a white winged of a second question. I tell him Arang as the macaron recipe I have calls for it. I'd rather not move around. I've heard that move around the syrup by the way, you know Italian rang right you whip the egg whites and then you cook the hell out of the syrup. You pour the syrup in super hot and you whip it into the kitchen aid or whatever you happen to have when the syrup side. I'd rather not move around the syrup when it's very hot, close to 120 on the Celsius could I make the syrup first and let it cool to a more reasonable 60 or 70 C before important to the egg whites I understand the syrup helps cook the whites, but I was never told the benefit of that French Merengues is made with all the ingredients at room temperature and Swiss Myrna Things are heated to 50 or 60. See, many thanks. Keep up the good work Stan beat? Well, you know, I don't know. I don't know. So there is a cooking but obviously, you know, I don't know what the finished temperature is when it all balances out. The issue is and I don't know, again, I don't know, because when I've done these recipes before I've only ever just followed the recipes. But one thing that is true is if you're pouring sugar syrup that's at 120 c into egg whites, you're gonna lose a lot more, you're gonna lose a lot more moisture from like sudden evaporation into its steam into the kitchen and away from your Merengues than you would if you if you didn't. So my guess is that, my guess is that if you let it cool, you'll have a higher liquid content in your finished Marang then you would aside from any cooking, let's erase any cooking issues from it. Because you because theoretically, you're going to cook these this morning anyway. But my guess is that you'd be messing with the water balance. I don't know what the high temperature there is doing to the proteins more or less than that it would at a lower temperature, Let's even say ADC or something like this. And then it's well above the temperature that would set to egg whites. So I don't know. But it could be the water balance might be a problem. I'd appreciate anyone sending in a tweet or a comment who has more experience? You know, maybe our favorite. You know, macaron, blah, blogger, you know who you are to write in, and tell us what she thinks about it. Anyway. Many things keep up the good work. Stan be. We have a question from John Pierre, that I'm going to have to ask for some clarification for next time. My question is that we wrote a blog about tortillas. And I want to know why when I cook my white corn and make tortillas, they come out brown instead of white or yellow. What am I doing wrong? I'm using field corn. It's not burnt? Just a brown natural color. That's very odd. You know, I don't know, like why would so. Because when we got to make sure that you're mean, I need to see it like, I need to know exactly what your procedures are and what you're adding gianpiero Because I can't imagine why they would turn brown brown. I mean, maybe, you know, some coloration on them. But I'm not familiar with any corn, corn, like pre pre colors or color, color precursors that are gonna go brown under the treatment under Nixon realization, but I could be wrong. And I've seen and I've done white corn and it comes out pretty white. I mean, maybe a little bit page but not brown. So, you know, there must be something with the technique that you're doing. So just tell me like, send me an email, you know, for the question and I'll answer it next week with kind of exactly like step by step what you're doing in the recipe so that I can help troubleshoot, like the more steps, the better because, you know, you'll maybe include a step where it's where I can figure out what's going on. Okay. Hi, Dave and Stasha and the gentleman or the gentle man in the booth. Hello. Hello. I'm wondering if you have any advice on diluting 35% cream with water to make something close to 3.25% milk I tried at once using a Blendtec HP three A. That's a blender. Cream and water and it didn't really taste like milk and I think the fat did not emulsify. Do you have any advice I want to do this because I'd rather carry a liter of cream home from a grocery store than four litres of milk. And if it works well it would be potentially a bit cheaper to Michael from a Toronto PS thanks for hanging out at data with the Hangout a day show after Soylent Green that we talked about that I did. I did the number that I did that a lot of people do. There was someone in the audience who was there who claimed to not know that that Soylent Green was made of people beforehand. at PayPal, that's really great. Did you watch the movie? You've seen it? Jack You fan of the Soylent Green?

I haven't seen the movie, but I'm familiar with the story. It's not

a bad movie. And it's it's evergy Robinson's last movie, and you know and it's got the Charlton Heston in it. And regardless of what you think about prying guns out of his cold dead, you know fingers he was a good actor, you know what I'm saying? Apparently he was kind of a sweet dude. I mean, not not a not a jerk is what I hear anyway. Doesn't matter. I mean, like, some some people are complete jerks and you still like their stuff, right? Like Michael Stipe jerk Music Good. Do you like REM? No. You don't like already already? Yeah, we've why whereby you Jack? Yeah. I mean, they're good. You don't like don't go back to rockville. It's a good town.

It's a little it's like a it's like just before my time you know, I remember losing my religion. Like in that song as a kid.

Yeah, but I mean like a lot of things are before your time you still like it. pretends to like the Beatles, even though she hates over half of their catalogue. I would have guessed you hate the Beatles. But she hates all the songs you like. Oh, right. She like it like you know if there's some Some sort of songs that you like, or that anyone listens to on a regular basis.

I think all their songs are great. I just think that a lot of them are radio played. And they have so many great songs that the radio chooses the same ones over and over. So I don't feel like listening to those ones anymore. It's fair.

See, when I you know, as I got older, like I have more tolerance for the songs that were overplayed on the radio as I was a kid really? Oh, yeah. Like I couldn't when I was or like overplayed by like the kids in the in the smoking section. Like there was a there was a chunk of time when I couldn't listen to Led Zeppelin because it's all that guy played next to me. It was like Led Zeppelin. I'm like, I'm done. And then I was like, You know what Led Zeppelin is there's a reason why those kids were listening to it so much, because it's great stuff. You know what I'm saying? Yeah, you like Led Zeppelin, right? Finally, something you don't like Led Zeppelin Jag?

You know, I have a problem with the not crediting the source material. They took a lot of those songs from older blues musicians. And yeah, I mean, they're good. I like the records.

There. Okay, musicians, but I mean it's voice okay bottom medium drummer

Yeah, plant got some pipes, man. What do Where's Do you like, do you like what's his name? Steve Miller, because he does credit people.

Yeah, yeah, dude.

Oh, what No, Steve Miller is an example an over Miller is it abracadabra that did it to you? Come on. Steve Miller stars had this our guys arguing with at the Stasha like, couple years ago, she's like, we're gonna hitch to Steve Miller had

like really had like, what? Seven? Eight?

No, he had like, like, 10 or 12 mega hits. So I like Mega

a bet it's ever Right. Like an eagle. Yeah, look up how many,

you know? Well let your spirit carry you to the list of songs they have done. It's like Well, the reason I was saying that, you know for Jax benefit is because he did not write big ol jet airliner but ended up in an era when people didn't give it a lot of money back even though I think the person who wrote it didn't really have access to his own publishing writers and like this ended up giving that guy a lot of money and is the reason that guy didn't die in poverty was because of Steve Miller's version of big ol jet airliner. Please don't carry me too far away. And I almost do that with the case. The case of rest in peace Casey case and, you know, the like Casey case, and oh, my God, did you Okay, I'm sorry. We're going far afield cooking issues, people but like back in the in the late 80s, late 80s, early 90s. Casey Casey had an outtake where he was doing an introduction to someone's dog that died. And the dog's name was I forget what it was something like fluffy or snub snuggles, Snuggles. And he was introducing you to and like to commemorate the fact that that this dog snuggles had died and he was doing his typical thing. And then he kind of flubbed the he flipped the thing and he was like, and he starts cursing and screaming at at the engineer for having him like go do this downer. Like he's like in his dog died. And they start to talk about you too. And he's like, these guys are English and Who Gives it and he's like, going off on it. And then so they have like, I forget what tune it was like unforgettable fires and like this and flatland, the you know, kind of concept band did a thing where they had somehow stolen those outtakes and just have Casey case and cursing and screaming about YouTube being English, which is hilarious. And, yeah. wrong concept music anyway, back in the day. Okay. Hello, everyone. It's Mildred from Albany, New York. I'm still working through the backlog about episode 137 Right now, but I skipped ahead to get Dave suggestion on soysauce replacements. Thanks so much for the suggestions and forgetting my last name, right. I haven't had a chance to try and get the suggestions yet. But mushroom ketchup was something I'd already wanted to try. Due to my interest in historical food. I have to follow up questions for Dave and any guests that you may have here like most, like most ketchup recipes, there is a reduced to one half or two thirds or more of the original volume step. Could I change that to 1/3 or one quarter to keep the consistency more liquid and closer to soy sauce? For the marinade? We're trying to recreate? You mentioned that I could ferment a two Yeah, probably. But the thing is, if you don't reduce the two things are happening when you reduce. One, you're getting rid of liquids, right? And so you're going to have a more concentrated flavor. If you reduce more second, you are boiling off some volatile. So for instance, if there are volatiles in there that taste better after they've been boiled a while they won't taste the same after they've been reduced. Secondly, if you reduce enough until things start Getting pastes like or start losing a lot of their liquid nature, then you can start getting effects due to higher temperatures when you're working. And so you can get more kind of roasty toasty flavors just gotta make sure you don't scorch. So in those cases, you'd actually be better off reducing it to its original volume, like they said, and then watering it back a little bit with water or with something else that has flavor in it to try and get that liquid back in. But you have to run a test on your particular recipe to see what tastes better, and then it's easy to take a small amount of it. And then when you're at that, you know, when you're at the point where you know, you've reduced it, how much you want to for the texture you have in the finished recipe, pull out a little bit, then continue to reduce the rest down to two, you know what the original recipe says to right, and then take a portion of that diluted back to the same texture as the one you pulled out earlier, taste it and see which one you like better, right? I mean, that's, that's what I would do. And you can get a feel for whether or not the reduction is actually doing anything beneficial. might do something non beneficial might actually harm the flavor. Who knows. But give it a try. And then to you mentioned I could form ferment the mushroom ketchup. I've never done fermenting like this. So I would I introduced yeast or something else. And should I do this before the reduction phase? What sorts of resources do you recommend? Mind you, I mean, I get a chance to do this step. The soy, soy allergic best friend won't let her husband or I make kimchi in the house. So I'm not sure that this will be allowed either. That's why they make garages. Like if you have a house like I don't know, I don't have a house, I have an apartment. So like, I don't really have any place that I can carry out crazy. Experiments. Never hurts. I can't do anything, it's going to smell bad because I would hear about it. And my dog would probably eat it. But actually we can do to the lab here like sounds like yeah, thanks. But I don't know, frankly, how how you know how bad it would smell if you have a vacuum machine. Fermentation in vacuum bags is always is always an option, you have to make sure that your salt levels are high enough such that everything is safe. I wouldn't add yeast and you're not really going to probably be doing yeast fermentations. With this, you're going to be doing mostly lactic acid fermentation, mostly anaerobic stuff. So what I would do is first pick up a copy of Sandor Katz's book on fermentation, because it's extremely accessible. And that dude has fermented almost any damn thing that you can think of. And if he hasn't fermented that thing that you can think of, he has found some crazy person somewhere in the world who has fermented said thing. And he has really awesome guidelines. And so he might have guidelines already for this, I didn't get a chance to look at the book before I before I did, but I would definitely go there. If you have access to a vacuum bag, you could try doing it under vacuum, so that doesn't smell. Another thing you can do, by the way, is if you don't have a vacuum machine, but you have a sealer, you can put it in a Ziploc bag, get rid of most of the air in the ziplock bag. And you're following similar instructions to what I say and clicking issues for doing a stake in a Ziploc bag. And then put that inside of another bag that you seal. Or alternatively, put it inside of a larger Ziploc bag. The reason for that second thing and then inside of the containers, should you have an explosion due to gas because there will be gas print most likely there will be gas produced by the fermentation when that happens if a bag blows, man, right, but if it blows inside of another bag that sealed well then it's still contained in that outer bag. Right. Right. That's the last time we did sauerkraut at the lab. I did it in bags and you couldn't smell anything till you opened it. Now I stink up the place. Yeah. All right. Anyway, thanks for your time and keep it delicious, Mildred. Okay. All right. Last Last question. So we're getting close. Do we Do we have any good things on Twitter? Yeah, but I don't know if we have time for them. Well, you can you can mention them and then we'll

we'll get to work till one o'clock today.

Oh, all right. So we answer the last one question here. Martin from Sweden here. Thanks for a fantastic show. I am a ballot biologist biologist beyond just skills right. I'm a biologist and engineer who's gotten a lot of enjoyment and learning to listen to your musings on food and cooking. I'm also one of those annoying aihole Vegetarians Wow. konsultan aihole I love it. I love them. I just don't happen to be one. Vegans. That's tough. You know what I'm saying? Like if you don't milk and eggs, I still like you. But I find it harder to cook for you. You know what I mean? Looking to improve my cooking techniques. As you can imagine, I'm having a lot of fun with pressure cooking hydrocolloid and infusions true a lot of those things were great onto the vegetables. My question though, is whether there is any value in applying low temperature cooking to mostly plant based ingredients. Are there any cool applications or should I simply avoid wasting money on a temperature controlled water bath? Thanks in advance, Martin. Okay, listen, first of all. Michael nakin. If you're out there, let me see dance. For those of you who listened to Prince's blackout, or if not my gotten that and if you're there, please tweet on in some really good applications for circulators. And, and vegetables from, you know, from the perspective and actual honest to god, that's terian I'll say from my standpoint, it is true that most of the time that I'm cooking veg, even if I'm using vacuum techniques, which I think are very good for vegetables, I tend to do them just in simmering water rather than, you know, ways to circulator bath on it, because most vegetables when you're trying to cook them, you're cooking them above 85 Celsius anyway, because what you're trying to do is break down the pectin. And in order to break down the pectin structure, and to get a vegetable to be soft, you have to get above 85. And there's not a lot of advantage to going much higher than 85. And then once you cook something in a bag, as opposed to in boiling water, you don't really get mushy vegetables like you do when you're boiling in water and you over boil so there's not a huge advantage to the control when you're doing standard vegetables like that there's a huge advantage to vacuum bagging, etc, etc, but not a huge advantage to temperature control. Now, that aside, there are some kind of special things that are done with vegetables that are very useful to have temperature control on so things like heat setting, like trans contaminate stuff on soy products. That's one having, making kombu dashi like kombu dashi, like the taste of kombu. Dashi is very dependent on the temperatures that are used when you're making said Dashi, and so when I make kombu dashi, I use temperature control bath, because I'm trying to hit around 70 degrees Celsius, when I'm using the kombu I think higher than that, that taste is not as good and lower than that the taste is not as good. So that's a good application for a circulator with vegetables. Another is another is certain things like carrots can have like a, like a raw taste of a raw crunch of a carrot. But you can get sweetness intensification in a carrot by bagging it and cooking it below it softening temperature so like 70 See, like overnight, you can get some interesting effects on vegetables like carrots that way. And I also believe that the effects of vacuum impregnation of flavors, that's gross vacuum impregnation in flavors into vegetables is accelerated under temperature and things like that. And the useful thing to have a water bath is you can do it without cooking them, you can cook it just below the softening temperature of the vegetables. So you can cook it at like, you know, like I say, like 70 or something like this. Another thing you can do with fruits and vegetables, if you have control waterbath is you can do enzyme related things. So you can do you know, Stein gardens, famous mashed potatoes, that were then taken up by Joel Robuchon by Wiley to Fran all these where he does an intermediate step, an intermediate cook step where He strengthens the granules by I believe it's a pectin, methyl esterase thing causing the you know, the starch. I believe that's what he's doing. I believe he that he's setting the structure of it more, I don't remember the exact chemistry of it, but he takes it to an intermediate step. And dramatic step that sets the starch granules in places they don't break when you doing it. And that's his famous kind of potato. And you can also do that in french fries. I don't particularly like in french fries, but you can do it and for that he used to do it on the stovetop just trying to get very accurate temperature, but it's a lot easier if you have a circulator to do things like that. So there are special techniques. There are special techniques like that, that you know are good for veg or for soy. And obviously if you eat eggs, eggs alone are a reason enough to buy a circulators if you don't eat eggs, if you know that's a whole a whole separate ball of wax but just for egg cookery alone, I think a circulator is worth it so but hopefully Michael will write in and you know, tweet and tell us some other great applications that maybe are more widely applicable to the vegetarian community all right, in the five minutes we got left Steve's gonna go over some some sweet tweets that we got and because I didn't get a chance to go over last week's tweets where we got you have

ratio we can well suppose it from the vendor signal did you go over this make errata liquid by adding lessons in patter

oh the ratio Yeah, she said oh, now it's like under I think it's under I always tend to add kind of like under under a percent. The trick with lecithin is that usually you want to heat a little bit you want to get the powdered lecithin and that the real trick with it, I don't ever do it. I haven't done it since I taught it and so I forget the exact ratios I use but they're widely findable in like just go to Martin lashes, textures. Thing thingamajig on the on the cosmos thing and look up any one of the number of the lecithin In foam things, the real trick to doing it isn't the percentage. The real trick is how you hold your stick blender. So you take your court container, you stick your stick blender in and the bell housing of the stick blender has to go above the level of the liquid. So you have to tilt the court container or tilt whatever cover you have it in. And then like at a 45 degree angle, or even a little more and stick the blender in such as the blender, the blades are going out and going back into the liquid. And once you do that you're frothing and whipping the air into it and then you can blend it and pull back on it to get the foam scoop that stuff off and go and you can keep doing that over the course of the evening as you're doing service and that's the real trick to lecithin. It's not the actual ratios. That's not the important thing.

Okay, right Shan Gan Sol core la nez. Dave, do you have any suggestions include torching UK for Sears all Bernzomatic not sell sold here, unhappy face,

the unhappy face. That's like every star's face is an unhappy face. So she's making your face for you. But we don't know for sure I hope to go to England maybe when the book comes out in November, we think that Rothenberger makes a torch I forget the name of it, we think that Rothenberger makes a torch that's a good substitute. Here's what you need and a torch to have it be good for a series all a it needs to have a high heat output, you know, no higher than the Bernzomatic ts 8000 But no lower than the TS 4000. So that's about somewhere between anything between about seven Africa with the 4000s. But somewhere between like 7000 BTUs per hour, and like 12,000 BTUs per hour in that range. It needs to have in the tip where the tip is it needs to be the right diameter, which I don't have in my head, but it's not, you know, it's somewhere near five eighths of an inch. And the important thing is that that that tip has to have a little fins of metal on the inside, they create a twisting motion that mixes the air. So it's pre mixed. And I think those are called vortex burners or something like this, everyone has their own different thing they call that turbo whatever needs to have that it also very key needs to have a needs to be not pointed any further than a forget whether it's 30 or 45 degrees that Bernzomatic is because otherwise you're going to be off center when you have the torch on it and it becomes an issue of falling over and it becomes a safety hazard in terms of its stability. If the torch head is pointed too far down. Next, it needs to have a trigger start on it so that when you press the trigger, not only does it ignite the piezo, so it's nice to flame. But it also when you release the trigger, the torch has to turn off. And that's one of the key reasons why we never bothered developing the Iwatani to its final stage because you had to turn the gas on with one knob and then press the trigger to ignite it. But when you release the trigger that torch stayed on. And we felt that that was not good for us. Here's all that's just not safe for Cyril. And last but not least, the piezo elements should be located relatively far down the gas delivery tube so that it doesn't overheat. That's another problem that you would Tane had is that the pieces would burn out after a while because the way they're designed there is some cherry red around the tip of the of the torch tip even in normal circumstances and just a little bit hotter that it got when I when it was on a seer Saul was enough to ruin the pisos after a couple of hours of firing and so you know, anyway, so those are the main things from the way we look at it on the interwebs the Rothenberger I think it's called surefire two or something that's I forget, seems to be a seems to look like it would function with those things, but I can't recommend it until I actually use one but the next time I'm in the EU, I'm gonna buy one and see whether it works. We're good we were well anyways, we'll try to go over the jack. We're done. Right, we're done. We're done. Alright, so that's it for cooking. Each week we'll try to get more of the tweets and next time cooking issues.

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