Cooking Issues Transcript

Episode 193: The Holiday Show


Hello, everybody, and welcome to a brand new series on heritage radio network called the culinary call sheet where we give a peek into the back kitchen of culinary media. I'm your host, April Jones,

and I'm your co host, Darren bresnitz. Part of why we started the show was to offer an unofficial mentorship for anyone who's interested in learning about all aspects of food and video, whether that's TV, social media online, or just something you want to do for fun.

Absolutely what was once niche or a little silly, as I'm sure you remember, Darren, when we started out, this man has now become such a massive playing field for so many creatives using food as the medium.

It's something that has driven us professionally and personally, for so many years. What excites me the most about this show is that we're going to sit down with some of the industry leaders to hear how they made it and what drew them into this industry.

With 20 years in the culinary production game ourselves. We're hoping we can give through these conversations an insider's view into personal stories from the field, as well as an in depth behind the scenes look into some of the most popular food programming. In today's evolving culinary media landscape.

We'll be covering everything from how to style your food, to how to license IP, to developing your own ideas, and some tips from the masters of how to host your own show.

Yeah, it's a little bit of conversation, how to and how do you do the things that you do in color media, which I'm so excited about? I love so many of the guests that are coming on this season. We have talent from Food Network from Vice media eater refinery 29,

we've met some of the best people in the world both in front of and behind the camera. And we're bringing them all together to share their stories, their delicious adventure and their unique journey into this crazy world.

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Today's program is brought to you by Kane Vineyard and Winery a Napa Valley winery committed to respecting the soil and dedicated to the creation of three Cabernet blends. For more information visit Kane five.com.

I'm David volti. Host of the speakeasy you're listening to heritage Radio Network broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn, if you like this program, visit heritage radio network.org for 1000s more.

Hello, and welcome to cooking issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of cooking issues coming to you on how to network and reverse pizzeria in Bushwick. Usually witness dacha the hammer Lopez, how you doing? Good. Are we having a show next week? What do you what day is it? What what month

day? Is that? Um, I don't know. But I don't I know we're not having a show.

We're not doing this is our Christmas show? Or what because you're gone is that you're telling me I'm I think I think we're both Jack what?

I'll be here but I mean, you'll be here.

Yeah. Geez, we do a hammerless show.

Why are you still gonna be here?

Do? I'm always here? Yeah, you know, it's not it's not me, actually. My wife is an architect. And you know, she's like, hyper hyper busy. I don't think she's gonna be able to leave until Christmas. Christmas. God bless us. Everyone. She's gonna be like, she'll be there all the earlier the next morning. It's like she's her own Scrooge. She's her own Scrooge and her own. Bob Cratchit.

So you're okay. I don't know. I don't know what day it is.

Well, this may or may not then be our Christmas. Christmas show.

We can still make it a Christmas Show. This show right now

Christmas slash. Oh, yeah. No,

that's the 24th.

The Tuesday the 24th. Yeah. Come on.

23rd 23rd.

Maybe, maybe not. I don't know. We'll talk about it. I'll tweet it out. If we're going to do it. Yeah, yeah. Okay. I know one person who will not be here.

Who you? I don't know. I really don't I don't remember when I'm leaving.

What are you gonna be going somewhere nice.

No, I already told you that. They

don't know where you're going. Do you not want to talk about staying out here? Stay in here. So you're not going anywhere? You're going to Connecticut? Yeah, but I don't know what day. I will also be in Connecticut people. But thankfully we will not be together because we need our alone time. All right. All right. So you want to talk about our 12 By the way, call your questions to 718-497-2128 That's 718-497-2128 got Jack in the booth today. Who else we got over there. I didn't look when I ran and why it's here. Hey, why what's up?

Can I just jump right before the show starts? It's a I hate to Keep doing this but it's the big fundraising drive. We're almost done end of the year and this week, we have a generous donor who's going to match donation so it's like double bucks. Double bucks is the down. Yeah, that's a fair way markets gonna match donations.

I heard that they were like no other market. Is that true? That's absolutely true. Yeah, yeah, that's true. Like no other market. She's like, What do I know? I don't live anywhere near a fairway. I mean, their Hell's Kitchen. I don't make it to the Upper West Side. Miles will be in Venice, right? Yes. We've I had a question for unschoolers for Jack or for Anastasia. And I forget what the the question was. Maybe I should just answer like, you know, real people's. Yeah. Oh, I know. Before I do that. Stars he wanted or we were doing our 12 days of Syria. You want to explain the 12

girl? Yeah, we're calling it Season's Greetings. Yeah. But you send in your videos of you and your seers all searing something and we may post it online and then the price is if you bring dramatic ts 8000 For 10 people and then grand prize winner it gets one of those with assigned

stairs all but you know and we're figuring out a way to post them before the thing ends right

there's it's there's one up right now

Yeah, yeah nice. I will check it out.

You can go to Sears all.tumblr.com.net.splat.org

got an exist that me that you know I own nobody likes that me.

I don't know if you still own it. Oh, I

didn't pay. Nobody likes me. There you go. Okay. These questions in this is from BJD. May I have a rundown of the full of goose Oh for Optimum Cooling and storage of vacuum bags cvwd meats by the way, Bruno Augusto is like the so you know, Cuso and Joe Bucha sadness. I Nigel Robuchon, like you so worked was all rubbish on for, you know, to come up with the first kind of kind of widespread application of Soviet at the SNCF, which is the railway in France anyway. So that's kind of how he got into like the low temperature Soviet on the high end cuisine side of it, although it was for a mass market application of high end cuisine, withdrawl Rosholt, but Brinegar. So was kind of the he's kind of the granddaddy of low temperature cooking, whereas if you actually talking about CV, you're talking about shorts produce a Sharky chair who did the the photograph or the truck roll brothers back in France. So it's like, you know, they, they compete, they're both, you know, like, I don't really know, probably would have met them once or twice. I know, good. So pretty well. And so like, you know, he, I think they kind of maybe they give each other a good natured ribbing. But I think they actually, they might actually dislike each other. I don't know. What do you think? I don't know. Anyway, they're both like, like, you know, hardcore, like French dudes, I love you said, he runs a he runs a company or a big part of a company called cuisine solutions, which they work here in the US Anyway, do so. So CUSO has this theory? Or I'll finish the question first, okay. I've listened to the back catalogue twice, but don't recall the exact process of the focus. So my a nova circulator has shipped and I'm particularly worried about the safety of my toddler and pregnant wife. And then have you finished a low tech primer? No. And believe me, I'm not I'm not going to do it. But I will answer any questions regarding it. You know, someday what I should do you know what I should do? sighs I should just do a, because I'm not going to I don't have the time to write down the stuff. But what I could do someday, if people actually wanted it, is I could do like a low temp primer podcast, where I literally just talk you through all of the aspects of low temperature cooking that there would be in a, you know, on the primer if I had time to write it. And then we get, you know, updated as necessary switching around, but if there's any, if anyone wants the equivalent of like books on tape of the what do they call those things now that they're not on tapes anymore? Audio books, audio books, if anyone wants audiobooks, if anyone wants, the equivalent of it will be more like this, because I'll be off the top my head and I'll be like, you know, going on tangents constantly, but I could do a hey, would you record a chat? Yeah,

maybe somebody could do a slideshow to it, you know? Yeah, somebody? Yeah. Somebody

with YouTube video, YouTube. Yeah, YouTube. Anyway,

I got a caller on the line whenever you're ready.

Okay. Okay. Let me make sure. Okay, listen, I'm going to come back. I'm going to talk about the full Gousto let me just get this caller and then we'll come back. All right. Caller you're on the air.

Hey, Dave. It's David from California. Good Hey, I wanted to get some strategies from you on infusing french fries, french fries with flavor.

Okay, what flavor I've done the exact opposite recently by the way, I finally made french fry liquor and it was delicious. But it went stale the same way. So like after it was stored for a while on the refrigerator when it came out. It like you know that you know that cold stored potato smell. After it's been cooked. Like you know how like when you get the frame the person is like do you want to take the french fries home and you're like I don't really want to but I don't really want to have them have to distinguish between the leftovers the rest of leftovers and the plate and the French fries are on the plates. They stick it all in that styro and you're tired when you get home because whatever so you throw it in the fridge and the next day you smell the french fries. As we all know what I'm talking about here, I that happened to the liquor. So I'm working on trying to get rid of that. But anyway, go ahead. So you want to you want to do the opposite, you want to infuse some sort of liquid flavor into a french fry. Right?

Yeah, well, I make a baked potato stuck that I use with mashed potatoes. And I wanted to get something like that into a french fry, give it that real roast potato.

Okay, do you own a vacuum machine?

No, just a FoodSaver.

See, the vacuum machine would have been that easy. Because I I've done that, you know a lot with different flavors like, most notably, vinegar, which also does a lot to change the texture of the fry, because the it delays the softening of the potatoes. So they, they're a little harder, but and so if you had a vacuum machine, you would just cut the potatoes off, I would and throw them directly into the stock not into water, because they'll absorb a lot of water there. And that's like stealing, like some of your flavor, right. So the one downside of course it is you might want to what I would. Okay, let's think about this, because you don't want the starch, you want to do the washer, the starch. So what I would do probably is cut them do a quick rinse in water, and then like salad, spin them dry to get them as dry as possible. That way you wash that initial layer of starch off the outside. And then and then I would stick them directly into the stock and let them and let them kind of soak. Now, that way, though, you're also going to you know, because they're underwater on our stock, you're not going to have the oxidation you're going to be okay, now, what I would do is then suck a vacuum on these things like a pretty hard vacuum. And that would kind of allow me to that would that would instantly infuse the infuse the flavor into the french fries. Now, I would say that you could do an ISI variant. But think of how many isI cartridges you have to go through to infuse a reasonable number of French fries, too many. So what I would do is probably get one of the, you know your FoodSaver bags, how you can you can get them on a roll so you can make your own length. Oh, yeah, I got that, yeah, I would make a really long one and stick the potatoes in the bottom. And now the thing is, is that you're gonna have to figure out, you know, you're going to need some sort of anti crushed thing in there so that it doesn't think it's reached a vacuum before it has, because that's what typically happens. And one of these, in one of these situations is that it's very hard to get a good vacuum on liquids in one of these bags. But trying to think of what you could stick into it that would prevent it from kind of instantly self sealing as soon as the first little bit of liquid starts sucking up into those little straws. I don't know, you'd have to play around with it. And then I would just cut it and suck it, cut it and suck it, cut it and suck it, cut it and suck it and keep on trying to get the flavor. And even though you know I've said a million times that the FoodSaver is not really ideal for vacuum infusion. It's really kind of the only, it's kind of the only thing you've got here. You know what I mean? Yeah, well,

I guess I could buy a machine then.

Well, that's kind of pricey, unless you can return it or, you know, what you could do is it the cheapest way to if you want to do infusions, if you want to do a bunch of these things, is to get a refrigeration vacuum machine vacuum pump, like the equivalent of like a robbing era, what are the kind of larger ones or you know, there's a bunch of different companies that make them and then you can just put a hose, you know, crushproof, hose, you know, onto a piece of, you know, like laksana, or even acrylic, really, cuz you're not gonna be doing alcohol in this situation, and then seal it over around vain Marie with like a sheet of rubber, suck a hard vacuum on it. And that thing is as good as it works as well as a pro vacuum machine. I mean, the vacuum pumps not as robust and it's not as fast but it will suck a serious vacuum. And you can do it on like a three or four, five gallon bain marie all at the same time, which is pretty awesome. And then you're only looking at like, you know, you can get one of those on eBay for like 150 bucks brand new.

So the short answer is that vacuum infusion is the way to go with french fries.

Yeah, because they're porous. And so then what you do right is the flavor gets in, right and then you of course, you boil it in the stock not in water when you're going to do your initial boil and then as you dry the moisture will evaporate out and they'll leave all that excess flavor in. And so yeah, you should get a good result. Maybe the other way to do it is you know, completely desiccate the stock out and then make a spice powder out of it. But that's a real pain in the butt.

Yeah, that was the other strategy I thought might work but I didn't I didn't know if you've played around with that sort of stuff much.

No, I haven't but you the trick is remember to boil it in the flavor that you want it to taste like. And also and that might actually frankly, want you know, before you go off and get all crazy, since you're going to be cooking these potatoes until they're kind of falling apart anyway right because when you're making French fries you do your initial When you're doing your initial blanch, you're really looking to, you know, cook them until they're dead, you know, just you don't want them to shatter apart because you want them to stay home while you fry them, but you don't want them, then day, you know what I mean? That's not how you're gonna get the best texture out of it. And if you make a really rich stock and boiled potatoes in a very rich stock, maybe you know the french fries, maybe that's enough, maybe you don't need to infuse at all. So what I would do is take a little bit of your stock and just cook a couple of French fries in it, you know, and see whether or not you get a good enough result. If you do there, then you're done, then you don't have to spend any money at all. Okay, the potatoes are pretty dang porous. That's why when you boil them and salty, salty water, they get salty, salty, salty. But of course, Salt. Salt is a tiny molecule. So maybe the stock stuff doesn't make it through. I don't know if we're gonna test.

Okay, that's enough for me to read. Let's

alrighty Good luck with it. Let us know how it works. All right, thanks. Appreciate it. Okay, so we're back to the Gousto. Now remember where we last left off BrewDog. So like the, you know, the granddaddy of low temperature cookie, as opposed to perlu kind of granddaddy of Sudeep. So Bousso is working on this stuff now, learned many years ago, probably one of many, many, many years ago, like the first time that he did a presentation at WD 50. And this is things before I was working at the French culinary I don't know who so did a presentation where, you know, he basically said hey, look at when you're cooking a protein. Most most proteins I think he's talking about like muscle meats and more specifically, you know, kind of mammal muscle meats and also birds but not I don't know how he feels about facial he probably says he specifically like, you know, weird cuts like foie gras. He doesn't, you know, discuss but anyways, in fact, says won't help doesn't matter. But we are cooking it, you bring it up at a you ramp up the temperature. And then the way he explains it to chefs is more of like this kind of holistic business where he's like, No, you want to ramp it down at the same temperature as though that so that makes a difference to me as though I care about that. Really, the real argument, if you talk to him, you just kind of a cost him about it is that the slower the ramp rate of chilling when you're working, the more liquids are reabsorbed by the meat as it cools. So there's an in CUSOs opinion or Essos research, he's seen that there is a kind of an optimal temperature of the meat for reabsorbing any liquids that have been expelled during the cooking process. And that optimum temperature is lower than the cook temperature but higher than a chilled temperature. So if you rapidly rapidly chill a piece of meat, then you're not giving that meat the opportunity to reabsorb some of the liquids that are expelled and you'll have a less juicy piece of meat. That's the Gousto theory. And so what Caruso wants to do is have a more gradual cooldown, but still get it cool within the time parameters of safety. All right. Now, this is not going to make a difference for things like eggs for things like foie gras, for anything for those things, you can just chill them, you know, whatever you want. But we used to run tests where we would and so here's what Gousto says, Caruso says just pull your product out of the bath and leave it on the table. Depending on the thickness, let's say it's like, you know, an inch and a half, you know, or an inch and a quarter ribs steak or so like this, leave it on the counter for you choose it's like depending on the thickness, 10 minutes, 15 minutes, I think up to I think he says you can go up to 20 I never do 20. But like that's what you can go up to leave it on the counter, right. And that's going to slowly let the temperature go down, right, because the air is a very bad conductor of heat. And I actually put it on racks so that it's getting air all around it. Right. So that's the first section, then the next step that you do is you put the Meet the bags into tap water. So tap water is in refrigerator temperature, it's usually somewhere close to room temperature in the you know, in the in the 20s somewhere like 20 or like 65 You know, if you're in Fahrenheit land, and you want to put them in the tap water and you can let it run slowly so it stays at that and that's going to rapidly bring them down to room temperature and that's the second part of the curve. And then the third part of the curve is to throw them directly into ice water and an ice water you know agitated ice water is going to rapidly rapidly drop the suckers down to down to you know, safe fridge storage temperatures much okay now, that's how he does it and it guarantees you know for reasonably, you know size cuts of meat it guarantees that the inside core is going to get cold enough fast enough but it does the initial ramp down in a way that allows it to chill. So typically you do like 15 1515 so 15 on the counter and 15 and tap water and 15 and ice water now, you know could you do like 20 on the counter and then ice water probably but any time you ramp it he's going to say you're going to increase the you're going to increase the Matter of moisture, it's reabsorbed and we, I used to laugh at it, but then we ran tests and, you know, turns out like, you know, side by side, most people pick folded. So in terms of the taste, and that's why we call it the focus. So I know another way to do things is if you just throw it in the fridge, it's going to ramp down slowly, because in a fridge you have very low, you know, heat transfer because of the it's just air but there's a bunch of problems there a your shafting everything else in your fridge because you put a hot load in your fridge, and B, there's no guarantee really that the stuffs gonna get down to refrigerator temperature in a reasonable amount of time. That you know, this does not especially if you're stacking bags on top of bags. So if you're really worried about safety, I wouldn't worry about doing the full Gousto in terms of like whether it's going to get safe in time. I think that's going to be a lot safer than it is just throwing the bags in the fridge and having done with it waiting stuff good. Now, he also he also writes Thanks for answering my questions last week. I did not put any Angostura turd balls in my Punchbowl. Remember we were talking about like, yeah, so he did not do any turbos. He's in he says as my other question I feel I wasn't clear enough on my aviary and Mara Tino ice question. Remember, there was a Maraschino liqueur ice question that we had. I think they thought I met the drink that comes in a hollow ice balloon. I did think that though cool presentation. It wasn't what I was after the Martinez I had came with Pebble ice, which seemed to be made from Maraschino liqueur. When this ice melted, dries a drink out as it makes it taste drier, I guess maraschino would Dave happen to know how they freeze the liquor. And is that in fact, what they're doing? Well, you could look you can freeze, you can freeze any dang thing. It's just it's not going to you know, it's gonna melt unlike a normal ice and it's gonna be really cold. I haven't seen this presentation. So I don't know what they do. But, you know, obviously, the more you watered down a liquor or lacouture, the more you are, you know, the the less you have to overcome the you know, the the fact that it doesn't want to freeze. So you know, you can use any combination of cryogenic to chill liquor down to the point where it's frozen, you know, ln is possible to do with dry eyes, but it's a real pain in the butt. So you could you do it? Yeah, you could do it. But I don't know. I'd have to edit this. See, so I don't have to email me a picture of the of the presentation. I have to see how it looks. If I saw how it looked. I can determine how they did it because I can see kind of how the note melting downward but i don't i don't know specifically anyway. Next question we have in from Chris, at the UNC School of Medicine. Can I use dry ice to cuddle a cryo model? If I don't have access to liquid nitrogen? Well, if you are at the School of Medicine, I would say go steal yourself from liquid nitrogen instead of trying to use some dry ice. Right when you say, Here's my problem with dry ice, first of all, I love having dry ice and I love putting dry ice into stainless steel containers because it makes this horrible death squeal that drives Nastasia completely bonkers. Remember that? That desk, we'll stick the dry ice into the container. It was like, like, like sticking up like sticking 1000 pigs. It's like that squeal of that horrible, but with metallic. It's crazy. It's awful. I love it. Because I could barely hear it. You know what I mean? Like, for me, it's like, you know, I mean, it's not like I would sign up to have someone play that at a concert. You know what I mean? But, you know, like, the high register stuff doesn't make me cringe anymore. You know, too damn old. And I've abused my ears too much with with with the loud music. But anyways, so there's that there's that awful noise. And then there's the soy. And then there's the fact that it's very difficult to

it's very difficult to freeze things with dry ice, because Dry ice is not a liquid so you don't get complete surrounding of your of your leaves of your of your leaves with cryogen. Right. So here's how you can do it, if you will. In other words, I'm not necessarily I'm not recommending it is what I'm saying. But if you were going to do it, here's how I would do it. If you absolutely had to do it, I would take dry ice, I will get nugget form because it breaks easier. As opposed to the blocks which are really hard, I would shove a nugget into the bottom of your of your 10 and I would smash the hell out of it to a powder with a with a Mugler, then you're going to add spirit to that. And it has to be pretty high proof spirits, so it doesn't. In fact, you'd have to get like 95% like you need something that's not going to solidify with the dry ice. So you need like, you know, almost technically pure liquor there. Then once that's at super cold freezing tab, then you could use the liquid alcohol as the cryogen. Then you can stick the herbs in and then assuming you didn't have too much liquid in there, they'd probably be brittle enough to shatter right. At which point you could which point you could go you could go ahead another way you might I'd be able to try it is to pellet ice straight. Now you could probably use 40% You know, like regular like liquor, just turn it into a slushy. You could use a blender for this, right, turn it into a slushy with the dry ice right now it's really, really, really, really, really cold, then you can immerse the herbs in it, wait a second for them to freeze and then blender model. And it'll probably be close probably be better than then room temp blender modeling, maybe not quite as good as actual nitro modeling, then you're going to have to add your other ingredients and warm it back up to room temp to shake otherwise, you're gonna get your dilutions all messed up. But these are all things you can try. But remember blender, like room temperature blender modeling is not that bad. It's just not as good but do it side by side and tell me what you think anyway, to any reason I could not or should not attempt to fat wash a bourbon with brown butter. Actually not I've had delicious brown butter, fat washed things. It takes a lot though. It's a lot, right? Takes a lot. And I think you're gonna want contact with those milk solids, right? That kind of brown many milk solids. So, you know, I would brown it and then I would put the entire thing including the solids together with it. And then and then work it didn't Piper used to do make that all the time. Just regular butter. I don't know you can do it. I've done it. It works. Three, can you talk more about milk washing tea vodka, and if it's possible to do in the home setting? Oh, sure. So milk washing is a technique I have in liquid intelligence, the artists is the perfect cocktail. Although, you know, I hate the subtitle. I know they like it. But I don't like this subtitle, should I but you know how I am. There's what I care about. There's what I don't care about, or there's what I care about right now. And then there's what I end up caring about later. But like, like, we all know that I don't believe anything is perfect. Right? And so like, even though like you know, that's like cooks illustrated, right. I mean, like the one of the gripes I have with cooks illustrated, although, like back when it came out in 93. I had all that original charter stuff, because I used was reading it back in, you know, back then. Amazing kind of game changing magazine, obviously, you know, but like, the one gripe I always have in them is they're always like the best this the blah, this and what they really mean is a really well researched X, Y or Z that tackles certain problems that we which I really appreciate. I love that, but I just don't like calling it the best. You know what I mean? You have seen color. Sure. I haven't talked about the milk washing yet. Right. So I have to I have to talk to that after I talked with the caller right? Yes. Caller you're on the air.

Hey, David Tandy from Chicago. How you doing? Doing? All right, how you doing? I'm doing great. Thanks. kind of sticking to the cocktail theme. We're hosting a little holiday party this weekend. And I wanted to get some ideas from you. Maybe on a little cocktail holiday punch kind of thing. Got your book. haven't read it yet. I'm keeping it stored away in a closet. So my girlfriend doesn't see it. But giving it to her for Christmas. Oh,

nice. I thought you'd had because you didn't. You're like I just don't want to make any of the recipes.

Yeah, exactly. So I just haven't seen it yet. But I had one when I was in this great cocktail bar in Austin had kind of like a flamed rosemary. I think it was in gin and cherry, which would be good, but just kind of wanted to pick your brain about a good holiday party cocktail.

Okay, so but you're looking to do, you're looking to do like large format.

I think so just for the sake of ease of service. I would be willing to do something. But I don't want to spend all my time behind the bar. I want to be able to tell us a little bit.

What do you what do you have for equipment?

No, no liquid nitrogen stuff like that. Pretty standard bar equipment, but good. A good variety.

Do you have a circulator? I do. Yes. All right. So it doesn't Okay, so first of all, like I don't really in the book so you're not missing anything for this application. In the book. I don't have any really kind of large format drinks they're like typically like when I do large format I'm doing more like figuring out how to do like pitcher at a time stirred drinks, which is like super easy, right? You just put your you put the undiluted mix in in in soda bottles in like you know one liter soda bottles and you squeeze all the air let's say we're going to do Manhattan's right you squeeze out all of the air and then you know close them off and then you throw them in your in your freezer you know like the day before two days before whatever and then they just chill down and you just have to figure out the ratios beforehand I'm pretty sure you can get it from the look inside on Amazon and then cuz the recipe is there. And then you just have like a big picture of ice water and then you pull out your you pull out your your mixing picture at the last minute you're like blam and now you have like you know, a liter and a half of Manhattan's that someone can pour out instantly, right? So that's, you know, one way way to do it where you're basically, you know, you're not spending any time mixing drinks, but you're busting stuff out. That's a high caliber like a Manhattan. But I don't think that's what you're looking to do. I think you're looking to get a bowl that anyone can serve themselves stuff. So I don't really have any large format recipes that I'd make, mainly because I had a bunch of friends who were doing it. And so I didn't like I don't know, I just didn't do it, I should have done it. So what I would do is read David wonder if his book on punch to figure out kind of what flavor profiles you want to make. And then I would worry about the problem of chilling which I could help you out with. So one of the things that, you know, Nastasia Backman, Piper used to work with us as they used to do this thing called the wine zombie. And they also had like other different kinds of zombies, and they had a Santa Claus that puked up holiday holiday beverage. So there's, if you have circuit if you have a circulator, right, so what they would do is they would take a circulator. And they would shove a pipe onto the outlet of the circulator, and have it either coming out of a zombies mouth, in which case it would be puking some sort of red cocktail, or you know, blood stuff, or they would stick it into, you know, habits coming out of Santas mouth, and then it would be like Santa puking up all the eggnog because he ate too many cookies, right when this is the theory of operation. So you don't need to go through all of that of having like a Santa's head, my accurate stars. Yeah, puking Santa. And you actually recorded your friend Phil, doing like kind of deep The Grinch, like Santa's vomiting noises. I'm not recommending you do this for your holiday party, by the way anyways. But this is a technique we use all the time to keep things cold without diluting. So what you do is, is you take your circulator, you drop it into the bucket with a couple chunks of dry ice, and then you set the circulator at whatever temperature you want the cocktail to be, and it will just keep it at that temperature, it won't get too cold, and it won't get too hot. And you can just keep your punch at the accurate level that you want it to have. Now, if you really want to go through it, you could have a bowl with a drain and you can have it coming like a fountain so someone could put a cup underneath and then they wouldn't necessarily see the dry ice or any of that it wouldn't look all high tech or anything like this. Right? So that's, that's a technique you can do. You know, or another good thing is if you want to do a hot beverage or if you want to do like a mulled wine, right, it's cold in Chicago, right? So circulator is great for a mulled wine. So you know, you just do like like a glug, right? So there you can take like, and it's great for parties you take you take your red wine, I think we usually use like something that's pretty dry like a cab, and you and you know and port, right? So you're mixing important something like a cab. And you throw out your spices. And if you wanted to taste Swedish, make sure that that makes sure that along with the all spice and cinnamon and clove, make sure and orange peels and all that. Make sure you throw in a hefty dose of cardamom, right? Otherwise, you know the hell's wrong with you, you know, I'm saying. So you cook that you cook that stuff down. And then you boil it and then you re fortify it afterwards with you let it sit overnight. And then you re fortify it with aka V or with you know, vodka if you're so inclined. And that and then you correct for salt and any kind of sugar balances that you want. And then that is great, you know, with a circulator just keeping it hot. And just, you know, keep keeps it going. And that's it. That's a another good one is Are any of these good suggestions? I can't tell.

Any sort of medium format was good.

Yeah, yeah, medium format is great, because then, you know, they'll stay actually pretty good. The Manhattans will stay pretty good. Especially it depends on how nice you want the service to be. You can you can make large format Manhattan's out of your freezer, like that, and then pour them into Stanley thermoses, and they'll stay pretty close to surface temperature. If you've pre chilled the Stanley that is, you know what I mean? Like they'll stay pretty close to surface temperature for a long time. So if you have a couple of Stanley pictures there, you can have like thermoses of Manhattan that stay at pretty much the correct Manhattan temperature for a good while. Yep, yep. I didn't even mention that in the book. But I should have Yeah. Yeah, yeah, another good one, give you one last good one. Here's another good one, if you're gonna do something like bottled drinks, right, so you can bottle a drink, that's not necessarily a punch, right? And then, like, you know, cap it like you would a and this is also means you don't have to have as much glassware, if you will, willing to let people drink it out of the bottle pens on you, right? And then you have like individual cap bottles, and you do salt in the ice. Right? Don't do too much. Or you'll freeze them, right. So you have to like you know, kind of measure it out or do a test beforehand. And then just throw all the bottles into the salted ice like they were beer. And then people pull the cocktails in. And then they're great. You know what I mean?

That's cool. Yeah, that'd be a little too much for me when I'm looking for to do by the Saturday, but I like that idea. A lot.

Cool. Yeah. Cool. Well, you know, tweet on out. Let us know what happened. Let us know how it worked out.

Big Bucks. Appreciate it.

I wish we were having a wish we were having a holiday party.

We could like you are the boss.

Yeah, yeah. I kind of the boss. It's

not really heritage Raiders haven't holiday party. Oh revenant

holiday party with Peter next Monday.

We were supposed to have a holiday party right which is kind of partially Booker and DAX partially Museum of food and drink. And like 1/3 of the party was like the meaning crap on you. So

that's the heritage when it's this it's tomorrow actually at a place called tend to barn Bushwick open to the public to so if anybody wants to come meet the hosts, tandem, yeah, no, it's free. Yeah, tandem. It's called tandem bar.

Like one in front of the other. Right. Are there in fact, two bars one for the other? No. Okay. And did you notice how stars immediately went to negative and was assuming that you were charging people I thought it was

a fire to the fundraiser?

No, this is the man doesn't make a joke as the fundraiser.

We got to do Monster Monster. Good. Yeah. Oh, well, yeah. Okay, well, okay,

so it's in Bushwick tending bar will be there from 6pm till the very bitter end of the night. Whoa, we got DJs and all kinds of stuff.

So like, at what point does it shift? Like to 100% hipsters? That'd be like 10pm Okay, cool. So if you want to pre scheduled Yeah, if you want to if you want to do the if you want to, like you know miss the hipster rush come early, right. That's right. So you're saying hipster? Are you gonna get your everyone who's listen to the past couple episodes knows that. There's a new part. There's always someone that Roberta's that look. We're doing the show basically, we're in a shipping container that has been covered with wood to look like you're in a wood cabin on the inside of it jacked accurate or not accurate. Okay. Outside corrugated metal shipping container inside. You know, it looks like we could be at that USDA inspected abattoir because it's like, you know, totally wood cabin on the inside. But there's a giant window that faces directly on to I'm looking at Roberta's eaters now like right now there's you know, there's his date going on. The guy's chewing his thumbnail, and the lady's got her chin on, you know, on her, you know, hand so we're trying to try to figure out, I think it's going well, no, he's trying to look like he's paying attention to what you're saying. They know each other. Yeah. Anyway, this is what we like. So when we're doing a radio show, like this is what's happening. So we obviously make comments about the people that we see especially like, you know, return people, which are usually the Roberta's staff, right? Hitler's little elf or whatever he's called. Well, that's kind of a rough. So that's we call them sad as hipster. Santa's little kids return. Yeah. Hitler's off. That's crazy. What's wrong with you? brain damaged nostos. This is where you probably guys get some knowledge from what we're dealing with here. This dosha is a deeply damaged person.

You just don't get to hear what Dave says off air.

What I said he, he might look like he's like, got some sort of like, whatever. Whatever. He, whatever.

He's got a multicolored beard.

He does have a multicolored beard. But he looks he looks like he's out of the Rudolph. Like the Red Nosed Reindeer set. He kind of looks like Hermie was a little more to tonic, which is where stars is getting that from a lot more to tonic. And like because his beard is very, very neat, but it's died. Santa's Little Hipster anyway. Do you know him? Jack?

No. Okay. I mean, I say hi every day, but I feel bad. We're

talking about him. Like he's not even a human being here he is working. Whatever. Can you talk more about milk washing tea vodka, and if it's possible to do it in the home setting. Cheers, Chris. Okay. Yeah, sure. Yeah, in the so if you go to the it's totally easy to do at home. So let's, let's go super home, right. Take your tea, put it into the vodka. let it steep for a long time so it's nice and dark. Then add it to the milk just like it has in the recipe and the milk is going to bind with some of the polyphenols and the tea and remove some of the astringency right let it sit there for a minute. Then I add citric acid right 50% citric acid solution, but you can add so I add about I think it's about 1515 milliliters of that to a liter of vodka or to 750 you know whatever I'm doing about about 15 mils so you can get away then with instead of 15 mils of that you can get away with an ounce right right out of the jigger of lemon juice and won't be quite as much acid but it will be pretty close. Make sure you strain it beforehand. Really strain it and then so you stir remember always to stir the vodka into the milk otherwise it will curdle if you do to the way around and then remember to wait and wait a little bit and then add the add the lemon juice stir it it should break you'll see it kurtal up and then just cover it and let it sit for like an hour. And Oh remember in the book a show you to like take the spoon and slowly move the there's a key steps I think people don't do and it's not as important if you have a centrifuge but if you don't, it's a super key. Take a spoon after you've added after it started curled and just kind of move Don't stir it like a lunatic just move the curves around. And what's happening is is that you're sweeping the curves through the liquid. And the curves are agglomerating together and getting bigger and bigger and you're kind of mopping up the casein that's kind of left and hasn't agglomerated into big particles yet. So just kind of move it, wait a couple of minutes, move it around against as stir moving in together slowly. And then do that for you know, every couple of minutes for a little on the left sit. And you'll notice that A, you're going to start getting a lot of very clear liquid and you're going to be getting curds, at that point, you can just strain it through a paper towel, I wouldn't strain it through, I wouldn't strain it through a coffee filter at the first go, because it's just going to take for freaking ever, I would strain it through either a very fine, you know, linen napkin or a paper or regular paper towel, because they're a lot coarser. And then if you want to get it clear, you can go through a coffee filter, but you're not even going to lose that much. It works fine. It's a little more complicated than using a centrifuge, but not really actually did it. The last demo I did live, just to show people that it wasn't that hard. Anyway. Okay, there you go. Okay. Hey, Natasha, Dave, Jack, and the rest of you like that while the rest rest the rest. This is from Brandenburger Chicago. This year I did an injection Brian on our Thanksgiving turkey and it turned out great. I know that some folks out there eg J Kenji Lopez, Lopez all our anti Brian, because it just adds water. But I was intrigued by Dave's technique of injecting turkey stock rather than just salty water. My question is whether or not Dave uses a high gelatin pressure cook stock or a lighter, more watery version. I keep lots of gelatinous stock on hand. But I'm curious if injecting a bird with the equivalent of a salty Turkey jello, salty Turkey jello, or if you want to sell it if you want to sell salty Turkey jello, call it aspek Although no American if you want to sell it in France, you're going to sell it as aspek Right? Because by an American no one wants something that has the word ass and pick together that they're going to eat. You know what I mean? As pick sounds nasty, and you also have to clarify it. aspect and also in France. I don't know that they'd be eating a turkey aspect. They're like, damn, don't speak to them tongue. I don't think they would buy that. You know, say isn't the end on Turkey in French? I don't know. Someone will tell me if I'm wrong, which I'm sure I am. Anyway. I keep lots of gelatinous stuff on hand but I'm curious if injecting the birth Dakota salty Turkey jello would negatively impact the texture or Brian absorption of the meat best Brandenburg Chicago Well, I don't know. I did I use the gelatinous hardcore pressure cook stuck with like a boat ton of wings. The entire carcass of the of the bird. And I started with I start with chicken stock. I might as I think I start with water. I start with water. But yeah, it was gelatinous. In other words, it's self set. But I injected it. I injected it at room temp right so I did it. Or even a little warm I did it right to do it right before I did it very soon before I did to cook. Right so I salted the meat beforehand and then I didn't super salty the the stock I just assaulted a little more than regular stock which is completely unsalted. Right. And so I injected it and then cooked it very very soon thereafter. So I don't know if you did it like days before what would happen but no one noticed any sort of gentleness to the, to the meat. You know, and it tasted delicious. Everyone's mean people they liked that injected flavor better than they liked it when I did it all low temp you know with the with the what do we call that? What do we call the exoskeleton bird bionic Turkey? Turkey. So anyway, so I don't know I don't know technically but I know my results were good. And I did use a gelatinous stock. We've never taken a break have we

know we're reaching the end. You want to take a quick break or you want us

to blast blast through this blast through. Okay. Jeremy writes in Hi my parents have sent us a giant of rib roast for Christmas dinner. But I'm stressed about cooking such a big and expensive piece of meat. I'm curious if it makes sense to cook it low temp. The center would be done perfectly. But how would the crust be with only a short blast in the oven? I have a circulator a sizzle and a normal residential oven. In short, how would you cook it? Thanks very much, Jeremy. All right. Well, here's what I would do. I would, I've told this story a bunch, but one time I did a low temp on a rib roast. And then just did a quick finish off on the outside and it was terrible because it's the huge. The huge interior of the meat is all the same doneness and turns out that you want you like rib roast rice, and what's your favorite part? No, no, no jack, do you like rib roast? Sure. What's your favorite? The favorite part would be that I know mine, you know, the outside port part of it. So like, you know the rib, there's the eye and then there's that layer of like fatty like layered, like deadly stuff that goes around it. You know, I'm talking about, can you picture a rib in your in your mind you there's the bone, then there's the eye that's attached directly to the bone. And then there's that thing that wraps around it. Yeah, right. That part when it's overcooked, and all crunchy on the outside, and the fats are crunchy. That's my favorite part of the script. You're right. My favorite part? Is it properly cooked? No, it's overcooked. Is it my favorite part? Yeah. So you don't want at a rib roast, you kind of need that. But what you don't want is to lose the ends of the rib because they're overcooked, and you don't want the main eye to be overcooked. In fact, you don't want that it to be overcooked at all. So here is what I would do. This is the technique I would use, I would. And in fact, this is what I do do. I usually cut the cut the roast off of the bone, right, then I low temp the entire rib roast, and then I cooked the bones down, then I kind of, we don't have to remove the bulb I do just because it's the last time I did it, I couldn't fit it all in. Then normally what I'll do is I'll take the low temp cooked rib roast, and I'll tie it back to the bone right after it's cooled down. Now you have the center of the rib totally nicely done. And now I'm not talking a short blast in the oven, just you can turn the oven higher than you normally would. And then you throw the rib roast in there. tie back to the bone. And then you get your so it's as protection then you get the roasted flavor of the of the of the rib bones which all you know all bone NARS love, right. You bone nurse does know Jack bone Gnar

Yes. So I mean, you know if it's good stuff,

yeah. And also if it's dry aged, you know, you don't want to necessarily like low template with the bone on because it's going to really infuse too much contrast flavor. Okay, so then you're looking at just doing instead of cooking it for hours and hours, you're looking at like a 45 or, you know, minute or hour at a high temperature. Yeah, you're overcooking the outside of the meat, but that's kind of what you want. And that's what I would do. And then I would pull it out and if you have any places that don't have a good looking crust on it when it's all said and done. Just hit it with the Sears all just to like crust with the outside and you're done. Waiting stuff. Good. That's how I would do it. And in fact how I have done it. Okay. Boop boop boop boop boop boop boop boop boop next question, hammer and the nails not sure if it's still the right email to use but I was listening to the recent episode I'm making stock in the venting slash non venting pressure cookers versus a stock pot where we had said that you know, I don't know why the venting pressure cookers. So you know, the theory is, you know, in my experience if you use a pressure cooker like Hoon recon that doesn't vent that it makes a superior stock to traditional stock and an open kettle. And that if you use a venting pressure cooker is one that like sprays out, steam as it goes, that in fact, it makes a stock that tastes inferior to even an open kettle and vastly inferior to the Kuhn recon style anyway. I think the answer lies in the higher temperature and the venting pressure cooker increasing the volatilization of aromatic chemicals preferably over the rest. In other words, like more than the the getting rid of the nice aromatics more than the other ones. Since by their nature, they tend to have fairly low boiling points, leading to the flavor of venting off to the room. I'm also guessing if you captured the steam and condensed it out, you find a rather larger set of flavor causing aromatics and you would get from the stock pot due to that effect. Anyway, love the show? Hope you make it back out to Seattle sometime, Mike I don't know. Don't know. Don't know. So we'll have to run the test and Tony. Alright, got two questions in from the Twitter that I said I would answer here we go. At said walking drunk, wrote me and said Do you have a time temperature recommendation for low temperature? Lamb hearts? I don't. But I'll tell you. You know, I don't cook enough. Mammal hearts. Although I love you know, I love chicken hearts. Does you like chicken? Jack chicken hearts?

Yeah, actually, I tried them in they're really good. They're like on a skewer?

Yeah, they are like like Okay, so like like in terms of parts of a chicken. Right? You got in my in my estimation, you got the skins and the hearts are right up there. And then you got like the meat afterwards. You know what I mean? First a dark meat then the light meat. Light meats like down down they got the chicken feet somewhere in there near the near the light meat anyway. I love chicken hearts. But anyway, lamb hearts. So here's the issue, right? heart muscle is is chewy, right? And that's kind of what I like about chicken hearts because the size of them and duck hearts. The size of them is very nice. So when you eat one you can get a kind of a crusty thing on the outside and it's chewy and it's that chewiness that very chewiness that I enjoy Right. So question is like, what are you trying to do, you're trying to make it own chewy or not can because it's going to be chewy. If you low template, so your only choice then is to low template for so long that you're actually getting protein breakdown in in the muscle. So you're gonna have to cook it for days, days to get it to, and then it might not taste good anymore because it might not taste chewy. From a temperature standpoint, I think you could cook it at whatever you would normally cook. You know that stuff that so like, anywhere between 55 and 57, depending on how you want it to be, I would probably probably go somewhere like 5556 for that. But you're talking now you're going to have to I would I do is I would take I would take three bags, four bags, five bags, and I would cook one for 24 hours. I will cook one for 48 hours, one for 72 hours. And then one maybe even for whatever four days is in hours, and then pull them kill them. And then deep fry them all because or roast him because you still need a crust on the outside. You know I'm saying jack you want you want an uncontested heart? No, no. But for testing, I wouldn't do that for testing I would just return them and taste the meat to see what the texture taste is like before you make them all tastes good by crusting them up. But I would I would I would test that and see kind of whether or not you get a good result. And if you do do that, I would definitely tweet in and tell me what happened so that I can figure out whether or not it was whether or not it was good. Or it was bad.

So to duck hard maybe one of the most delicious things I've ever had

you look at the duck card. The card is the card is good time though. Oh, I got one more quick ones to blast through. All right. At Xang Road in cooking issues any tips for keeping busy home cooked from getting soggy bottom soggy bottoms crossword right? Yeah, venting doesn't seem to help meant in the pastry. So we're talking about beef wrapped in a crust cooking issues, I also won't have a circulator with me to avoid moisture loss from the meat and the duck cells the duck cells is the mixed kind of mushroom cooked mushroom slash, you know shallot or ever mixture cook chopped up that you put with these things or with like, you know, with a beef wellington or with you know, or something like this, the duck cells are cooked as dry as possible. Alright, here are my recommendations for it. I really would if you could do a pre cook on the meat so that you're not getting as much drip loss like that's really the only thing that's going to save you here is preventing the drip loss out of the meat which is causing the bottom of the crust to be soggy. So obviously if I had a circulator, I would sear the hell out of the outside of the meat, I would then circulate it till it was done, cool it down, rapid and puff pastry and then stick that puff pastry in a really really hot oven just to not really really hot but like, like hot enough to cook the puff pastry without really cooking the meat that much. And that way, you're going to get a nicely cooked post pastry because even no matter what, even if you don't get a lot of moisture loss, you're gonna get a little bit of gumminess around it. Now the duck sells is there to provide a barrier so that you don't have that much problem, right. And it's a thermal barrier. So like a lot of dried duck sells around is going to call is going to help you however, they're not that absorbent, so you're not you're still as the juices drip out of a raw piece of meat down into the into the bed of the puff pastry. It's going to get soggy and no amount of venting is going to have help that I'm presuming you're saying soggy. You said soggy on the bottom. Yeah soggy bottoms. Now this is not traditional and may not even taste good. But if you were to line the bottom underneath it with dry rusks you like the word Rusk? Sure. rusks like some sort of like dried biscuit or bread, it could maybe act like a sponge and a thermal barrier, right? So you could get good cook off of your pace for you so it's not soggy so it's a starts out life nicely. And then also that could absorb some of the like bloody juices as they come in. Maybe it's tastes really good. Maybe it's actually bad. But that's the only thing I could think of off the top of my head because that Twitter just came in. Let us know whether you like these ideas or what's going on. Do the 12 days of shearing. Join heritage radio network if I don't talk to you Happy the holidays cooking issues.

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