Cooking Issues Transcript

Episode 215: Harold McGee!


Hello, everybody, and welcome to a brand new series on heritage radio network called the culinary call sheet where we give a peek into the back kitchen of culinary media. I'm your host, April Jones,

and I'm your co host, Darren bresnitz. Part of why we started the show was to offer an unofficial mentorship for anyone who's interested in learning about all aspects of food and video, whether that's TV, social media online, or just something you want to do for fun.

Absolutely what was once niche or a little silly, as I'm sure you remember, Darren, when we started out, this man has now become such a massive playing field for so many creatives using food as the medium.

It's something that has driven us professionally and personally, for so many years. What excites me the most about this show is that we're going to sit down with some of the industry leaders to hear how they made it and what drew them into this industry.

With 20 years in the culinary production game ourselves. We're hoping we can give through these conversations an insider's view into personal stories from the field, as well as an in depth behind the scenes look into some of the most popular food programming. In today's evolving culinary media landscape.

We'll be covering everything from how to style your food, to how to license IP, to developing your own ideas, and some tips from the masters of how to host your own show.

Yeah, it's a little bit of conversation, how to and how do you do the things that you do in color media, which I'm so excited about? I love so many of the guests that are coming on this season. We have talent from Food Network from Vice media eater refinery 29,

we've met some of the best people in the world both in front of and behind the camera. And we're bringing them all together to share their stories, their delicious adventure and their unique journey into this crazy world.

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Today's program is brought to you by Heritage Foods USA, the nation's largest distributor of heritage breed pigs and turkeys. For more information visit heritage foods usa.com

Hey, what's up this is Jack Inslee, host of full service radio. You're listening to heritage radio network and broadcasting live from Bushwick, Brooklyn, if you'd like this show, visit heritage radio network.org for 1000s More

Hello, and welcome to cooking issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of cooking news coming to you live in Bushwick Brooklyn on the heritage Radio Network joined as usual witnessed after the hammer Lopes How you doing stuff. But also in the studio. We have special guests. We have Jack Tran from the bar and say Hello, Jack. Hi, Dave. How you doing? We have Jackie molecules in the engineering booth. Yep. And Harold McGee here from California What's up call your questions. 27184972128. That's 718-497-2128 How you doing? Very well. Thanks, Dave. Nice. And Jack had you served on Jack was at the Jack did the cocktail apprentice program Jack? Not? Molecules. Yeah, I'll be molecules. Yeah. Or Jackie? Jackie molecule is a jack SRAM bartenders, Booker and DAX intrepid bartender, Booker. Dax was just part of the cocktail apprentice program and tells the cocktail. Just got back. Did you survive? Just barely, Dave? Yeah, it's a they're a, let's say hard living group of folk.

It certainly is. Yeah. But it was it was a lot of fun. I learned such an incredible amount. It was a fantastic experience.

Nice. Nice. All right. So Harold, you got you got anything to anything to report what brings you to our fine, fine city.

I came to visit the CIA up in Hyde Park. They have a new culinary science program. So I was finding out about that. And then came down to the city to catch up on what's happening here.

Now culinary science as opposed to Food Sciences more like your alley, the study of delicious.

Yeah, the study of what cooks do to make food for people rather than what industrial factories do to make food for people?

I see. I see industrial, industrial factories. All right. So let's get to some questions. Let's see what we have here. Started. We answered the question on root beer. They don't remember whether I answered the question on root beer.

I don't think so things, man. All right.

Rob handle. See, I never know whether I've answered it. And that's here. And that's got to answer it again. Anyway, so I'm sorry if I already interested answered it. Rob Handel wrote and he said I was the guy that called today about running root beer in a trash system. Of course it was like a month ago that he actually called because I'm so behind. But I had bad cell service and got cut off. I'm aware that the persistence of root beer flavor, and I'm willing to do To cater corny keg or to as well as the lines to the cause. I've had a couple of main concerns other than that the recipe I developed has about 20 herbs, roots and spices and generates a lot of sediment. What's the best way to clarify this so I won't have major filming issues. I'm also working with space constraints where I'm able to safely sanitize the corny keg, pour in the boiling soda bass, then seal it and keep it at room temperature would I need to sulfite it to ensure it is safe, I would run it through a cold plate to chill and ensure carbonation. Any other concerns I should be aware of where about when setting up the system. I'm looking to have root beer and sparkling water on tap, then rotating a seasonal soda on the third line. You are talking about doing a hot fill. And not to be confused with anastasius frenchville. Right. And I think that's going to work fine. You see any problems with that like as long as the yeast is killed, the co2 lines not going to bring yeast into it as long as you get no back contamination or backflow you shouldn't have any problem with the hot field. Just wait for it to be super cold before you carbonate it. Yeah, anyone, anyone, anyone you know that stuff you want to it. I'll give you a couple of words of advice since that's what you're here right. Boil the lids, make sure everything that touches the inside, including the lids is is boiled. Pour it in boiling cap and immediately flip it upside down and let it boil the top of the thing before it goes. And then if possible, blow a little bit of stuff through the tubes to make sure the tubes are sanitized. While this stuff is still hot to kill everything. Ain't nothing that kills you got to grow in the soda. What's going to happen is you're going to get yeast and other sorts of kind of things that just make it either either reduce it residual sugar increase its alcohol content or make it nasty, right?

Yeah, I mean funky, funky fruity nasty. Not not horrific. But yeah, know what you want.

Yeah, root beer ain't your funky fruity, nasty kinda kind of beverage. Yeah, although funky, fruity nasty. Can you make a cocktail called funky fruity? Nasty? Absolutely. Dave, I was already thinking about nice. Got a call or whenever you're ready. All right, so I'll finish it and we'll get the color. So on the foaming. Okay, I'm just gonna put this out. Here you are, as we used to, say, the trade s o l like, like, first of all, anything out of a keg like that you're gonna have more foaming than you would out of like a bottle service. But also all those barks. Not only you have to get 100% clear which you be totally clear, meaning no particles, which you could do through a number of filtration methods, or even probably with a clarification step if you had to, but that's not going to get rid of the kind of surface active crap that's in barks, and roots that causes things to kind of foam up on it. So it's like it's just you're inherently foamy kind of situation. The good news is, is that root beer is a relatively low carbonation foamy product anyway, that's why it's root beer and not root IPA. You know what I mean? No, yeah. All right, caller you are on the air.

Hey, I heard last week that Harold McGee might be on and they had a question that I thought he could perhaps answer. I've been steering a lot of my food lately with the Sears Hall. And I was reading on on food and cooking. Specifically this section on I think it's heterocyclic, Amiens, that are created during the steering process or high temperature cooking.

That's the first time that's been ever been easier. Go ahead. You're the first time first person has ever mentioned heterocyclic, Amiens on the show. And so I believe you deserve a price. Go ahead.

So I was just wondering, is it smart, like from a health standpoint to pair seared foods with something that is any oxidants? Like a drink or something? Or is it just it's it's not that that important?

So I would say I mean, of course, there really isn't good scientific information about a question like that we can only sort of extrapolate from the knowledge that either heterocyclic amines are formed in high temperature processing foods, and they seem not to be good for us. And so you probably want to minimize intake. And then also, I'm not sure that antioxidants per se are going to be helpful, because these toxins are toxic, not by oxidizing things. It's by reacting with, with important molecules like DNA and RNA. But I think what it does make sense to do is to eat that food with, as you said, a good drink with all kinds of complicated other materials in it, but also vegetables and fruits, which have all kinds of stuff that we really don't know about, but that is probably going to be there, if not to counteract the activity of something like heterocyclic amines than at least dilute them so that they're less likely to cause problems. So I think bottom line just having a meal with lots of different elements, To it along with your wonderfully seared food is the is the way to go.

Yeah, my favorite that would be a glass of nice glass of red wine. Yeah, yeah. Yeah. Which it may or may not do wonders for your heart, but it does wonders for your soul. Yes. All right. Well, thanks so much for calling in. Yeah, thank you. All right. Bye. All right. So here's a we didn't answer the agarn little question. Yeah. I might as well get to it. Yeah, remember the old ag our noodles that people used to make like Johnny used to make them and fron made them and they would get keep the Ag are kind of in a warm state and then put it through a tube in ice bath. Yeah, so I think someone's writing about that. But let's find out. I don't even look it up. Because I was like, I got noodles. I don't need to research that I can do that in my sleep. I had a question about a recipe. I'm piecing together. I wanted to make spaghetti and red sauce. By the way, spaghetti. I had to learn. I'm gonna know more of a Jedi Commons today. Although I had some people write me and I wanted to make a spaghetti and have you used it for Jedi? No, no, no. Jack, do you wanna have a Jedi?

I do not own a Jedi.

I do not own a the Jedi.

I use one. I don't own it. Now it's like, you know what it is though? Right? No, I don't. Oh, oh, time for the talk. All right. I said I wouldn't do it. But what happened? Okay, so like, you know, the you know, the like the Ben Renner things that like you can take a potato and turn it into like a large strip or it can make shreds. Yeah. So if you if you were to take that and make it less expensive shape it like like an oversized pencil sharpener. That could let's say take a cucumber sized thing. Or even maybe even a daikon. So the and you can twist it. And it turns said, stick shaped. Yeah, item veg into strips. And so someone's like, those are kind of like noodles. Maybe I could use a weapon noodle. And so instead of just calling them kind of threads or filaments decided to say they are spaghetti, which in fact, they're not the same shape as Spaghetti. Spaghetti is what shapes does. What shape is spaghetti? None of what shapes the cross section. Yeah, it's round, it's round. Does the Virginie produce round things? So does it produce spaghetti? Could it ever produce spaghetti because spaghetti is not merely pasta in a long form people spaghetti has a freaking cross section. But someone in their in their infinite wisdom, decided that this is just like a spaghetti maybe they're thinking of spaghetti squash, which by the way, I think used as a spaghetti, whatever. I'm not gonna get into it because everyone here likes spaghetti squash. I'm surrounded by spaghetti squash lovers. But they decided they were going to call it a VA Jedi of the Jedi. And the the non brand name of the Jedi is spiralizer. And so people have written a lot of people actually, as it turns out, have written cookbooks on spiralizing vegetables because the majority people won't let you let them use their name because they don't want to we look we're the Jedi don't want to become the Kleenex. spiralizers All right, you know what I mean? That's basically what's happening. So you've never used one any thoughts?

I need to go out and get one.

Wow. I'm sure someone listening to this would be more than happy to send of the Jedi you

know, are this sponsor? Yeah. What's going

on? I don't know, man. I don't know. I don't know. They wouldn't touch with us. Yeah. Anyways, I had a question about recipe on piecing together. I wanted to make spaghetti and red sauce with the flavors of it. Tequila Sunrise, Jack even suspects for tequila sunrise to

sunrise. Two ounces. Repco. I don't know they don't do sunrise at the bar. Yeah.

Yeah, right. Yeah. But you have to keep it all layered so that it looks like it's a sunrise or sunset sunrise.

Sunrise. Yeah.

It should really be like, if it's sunrise. It should really be like, creamy vet. Because sunrises are not. They're like bluish gray. Sunrise.

I don't think that would be incredibly delicious, though. The Grammy vet

I think I detest it. In general. I think it's I mean, like, I'm sure somebody likes it. Not me. Like do you like criminate? Not especially Harold. Do you like here? No. Do you like fruity pebbles? Fruity pebble Z. You don't know Fruity Pebbles? I don't know. It's the Fred Flintstone branded cereal that looks like aquarium rocks like multicolored aquarium rocks. Anyways, like It tastes just like that. But somehow fruity pebbles at least has crunch. Anyway, I'm not a fan of the saying. Okay, so I think it's actually to call it a tequila sunset. I'm just gonna go ahead and say that okay. How do you think the alcohol in the acidity the OJ would affect the amount of Aguilar you would need to add to the liquids? Look, as long as you're not going above like Nang and like 15 20% ABV I know, you might need to add a little bit of extra egg or maybe but not but I mean technically you should technically wouldn't because whatever it doesn't matter but I wouldn't worry about it too much because I wouldn't put the alcohol level that high anyway, one thing I will say is you cannot have something that says I high alcohol and boil and sufficiently hydrate the Aguilar so you will need to hydrate the Ag bar in the juice slash whatever water base started cold boil it let it simmer for a while for a couple of minutes. Then you're going to want to temper the alcohol into that mix not the other way around because you don't want to get pre adulation and then you want to keep it warm enough to put it through whatever you see or whatever it is you're using and make the noodles The noodles. I was also wondering how you think the texture would come out the egg our noodles, frankly, they're a little brittle and they break kind of kind of easy. So you might want to switch or add like a softener like a texturizer to it. Like it's not specifically something that people use for it but like LPG or any sort of like softening thing is going to make it a little more spaghetti like yet Plus I'll see you never make spaghetti with this either because the noodles are always a bigger thing they're more like Udaan right you know I'm talking about these like these Agra noodle things a little more like Udaan but I would follow you know any of the Martin lair still puts out the text what does he call that thing? The textures? What do you call it thing? It's like a compilation of every chef's recipes on hydrocarbons he still puts it out just check and see what kind of egg egg on noodles learn that when and see see what happens there. All right, Justin rhodian off from Palm Springs on an anti griddle Hello Dave mustache mustache yeah mustache if you remember how many years I worked with these guys seven can't get your name right. Oh, he's years later this Tassia Jack and whatever interlopers. Oh what what up Harold McGee is now an interloper. Jack You count because it's double Jack. He didn't say Jackie molecules and he said Jack, as I was searching the interweb for instructions on building my own anti griddle, somewhat unsuccessfully i For those of you that just you still make them to Philip presses to make the integrals. I don't know. I haven't seen him in a long time grant Aikens who you know from Alinea, and aviary, and next, who by the way was at tales of the cocktail and paired a cocktail with seared beef. Yeah, yeah, yes. Yes. Not for its antioxidant properties. I don't think so. Yeah. And he brought the giant porthole which holds like something like you know, it's like a frat party should get that thing it was like how many gallons Did you say it held?

I want to say said 70 liters. Something. Yeah, something ridiculous.

A lot of cocktail. A lot of cocktail. A lot of cocktail. Big, big freakin what's it called? porthole? Yeah. And he was blown as to caramel balloons and whatnot. Yeah, fun. Do you think he had a good time? I don't know. Oh, yeah. Did you see him at any of the parties afterwards? No, No, me neither. I didn't really go though. I was like, I was like, holed up in in a closet as I as I want to be. Anyways, so Philip Preston made this thing. Anti griddle for Alinea way back in the day. I don't know what he made it for. My impression was he made it for Alinea when they were opening? Because I guess it didn't have ln it signed liquid nitrogen or something. And they wanted a chilling technique. Because remember, at that time, which was at oh, five, Alinea, some somewhere around there? Yeah, yeah, that was a interesting period of time in the US because the the guys that in Spain were already like, you know, using liquid nitrogen like it like it had no cost and like, you know, fron had, like, you know, five doers of it in, you know, in like, you know, Danny Garcia was like, you know, just like, you know, whatever, turn on the tap and walk away from it, like, you know, like California five years ago with water before you guys went totally, totally dry arms. But so anyway, I think he wanted a way to replicate some of those effects without having to have liquid nitrogen. So the anti griddle is in effect, a flat plate that chills things down. And the big thing that grant used to do is he used to make like cram on glaze, pour it on the thing, stick a stick into it and make little Kremlin glaze. Lollipops. Lollipops. Anyways. Wow, that was a long tangent. I have an unfinished question yet. I came across a forum in which someone was discussing creating a high pressure environment. So you only use now the question is not even about the griddle. Interesting. I came across a forum in which someone's discussing creating a high pressure environment inside a pressure cooker by putting dry ice inside. It's got me wondering if that technique would work for rapid infusion in the same way as an easy canister but on a larger scale. I've heard most of your rants and raves concerning the pressure cooker so you're the obvious one to come ask. Assuming I haven't modified anything on my cooker. Is it safe to try? Now? Is it safe to try? Is it safe? Well, whether or not safe to try depends on how fast your pressure cooker can eject the excess pressure and how much co2 You put in how much dry ice you put into it. I'm gonna go ahead and say no plus also you can't modify a pressure cooker to withstand much more than about 20 psi because the side gaskets will blow out. There's there's three or four safety features on every pressure cooker. And I wouldn't you're not going to get it above about 20 psi and you're pulling I'd have to go back and look at my charts and liquid intelligence to find out but in an EC you're getting like 60 7080 psi. What you want to do is get a corny keg get a corny keg and you know you can use co2 You just have to wait for it to flash off but it'll work much like nitrous we have to wait for it to flash off so it doesn't have any pitiless left when it's done. But I would go corny keg and then you could do five gallons at a time and you can get it corny kegs still for you know, not very much. What do you what do you guys think modify the pressure cooker? No, right?

No, I'd be worried about you know, condensation freezing up in the in the valve. Yeah, I'm just kind of blocking it. So you so I wouldn't mess with

you ever have one of the other safety features? I've had them all fail on me. I've had I've had every safety feature, vent one way or the other on more than one occasions? You know what? It's not pleasant. But not not pleasant to

Dave. Anytime you're saying something is potentially unsafe, and you're saying it, I would highly recommend you do not do that thing.

Yeah. And there's no winks and nods here. It's just not a good idea. And I look, I'd be willing to figure out a way that I thought it would be safe. Except for the fact that I'd also don't think it'll be effective. Because you're not gonna be able to get the pressure high enough. Yeah.

Hey, Dave. Yes, weird question. Email to heritage just now. Greg in Queens who says Harold sounds like the nicest guy on the planet. But does he have a freaky side?

Whoa. Should I let the Stasi answer that? Maybe? What? Harold so why don't you describe to us? Your your your freakier side?

No

I'm not going to

just have Harold come to tails with you next year.

Harold has been details. He's been a tails. It did you

see the freaky side? That's the place that comes out.

Oh, oh, no, no, you didn't? Hey, you know? Yeah, well, you know, we gotta take you to Vegas and I'll know then stays in Vegas. You know, I've never been to Vegas. You haven't? Nope. Wow, that's kind of a crazy question. Yeah, who did it say? Who was

raised in Queens? Greg. There you go. Greg.

Greg, so take it take it as take it however you want but you're not going to get anything out of them on on the air. That's for sure. But in fact, I will say this and stars you could back me up on this. He is in fact the super nice fellow that you hear hear on the radio that's like legitimately that's legitimately the the herald that you will you will get if you meet him in the real life. Oh, Justin glassing you sent in a PSA because stars nine to get off our butts is your next book should be called enemies of quality. We're still working on a t shirt. You know about the enemies of quality? Oh, it's an enemy of quality is someone who does things to hurt the product like like food or beverage in a way that she just, you know, like, not so much purposeful but just neglectful. Most enemies of quality are just neglectful

because they're not looking out after quality. I mean, that's right. Yeah.

Yeah. Like Like imagine buying a loaf of crusty bread and then putting it in the fridge would that person plastic bag? Oh, wow. Yeah, because it because of the what do you what do you like these modified plastic bags that allow for venting? Are you still worried about right after baking put in a plastic bag Devil Satan? Yes. No. Yeah, horrible, horrific. Terrible. But like, what about you? Do you like these bags with the venting things or? No?

Not really. No,

no, first of all, Harold lives in like one of the like, one of the greatest places for just keeping things on the counter. Like in San Francisco, you can just keep anything just like on the counter, right?

Oh, you can but I mean, the I mean, it's not as humid there as it is here right now. But it is like 50 60% which means that the loaf of bread is going to get the crust is going to suffer with time. But there's nothing you can do about that. Really, except just keep keep the bread as optimally as possible for the whole loaf and then crisp it up in the oven.

Are you also suggesting that people eat their bread in a timely fashion?

That that is advisable to although these days when people make these gigantic you know, like four pound loaves, it's hard to do that but

you have a day Yeah, that's why I like it when people sell quarters. Yeah. So what are your thoughts on bread boxes?

Um In my experience, they're great for if you if you have a kitchen where there's a lot of traffic in and out and it's nice to kind of Keep it out of the way. But I'd like to just take a a paper bag, cut cut one part of the loaf, put that facedown on a cutting board and then just kind of put a bag paper bag loosely over the top. And it doesn't look as nice as a bread box, but I think it does about the same

day. That's the Harold McGee bread box right there. You want to take a commercial break and come right back? To me, yes. All right. Jackie molecule is coming right back with cooking issues.

Hello out there. It's Steve Jenkins. I'm with fairway markets. White Leghorn red wattle, Bourbon red, Navajo churro. These aren't names you're likely to hear at a fairway butcher counter or any other counter today. But before the rise of factory farming you would. And at Heritage Foods USA, you still do. Heritage Foods USA exists to promote genetic diversity, small family farms, and a fully traceable food supply. You see, we believe the best way to help a family farmers to buy from them and Heritage Foods is honored to represent a network of family farmers and artisanal producers whose work presents an immeasurable gift to our food system and to biodiversity. The meat we celebrate whether its heritage Turkey, Japanese steaks, Berkshire pork or Navajo children lamb chops is the righteous cause from healthy animals of sound genetics that have been treated humanely and allowed to pursue their natural instincts. It's a simple fact, animals raised according to this philosophy taste better. And as we like to say, you have to eat them to save them. Visit us at Heritage Foods usa.com for more information.

You gotta slit their throats to save them. It's true. And welcome back to Cooking issues with Harold McGee. Harold wants to say Jerome tell you give me some true Trudeau. Nice. Right? McCain? Maybe you can do that. Would you be willing to do like a Hey, Jack, you want to get Carol McGee? Maybe you can say something nice about the radio station? What do you want? I don't know. Maybe he would. I'm kind of calling him out. I didn't ask him in advance whether he'd be willing to.

Maybe he'd say something nice about us. I don't know. I don't know.

Sure. Sure. Give me a script.

He's like, I have nothing that I actually want to say. That's nice. But if you have something nice to say, I've now read it. I don't know what you need. Oh, that's gonna help out. All right. Nice. All right, Sam writes in. Hi, guys. I'm trying to create a mother of vinegar just for kicks. We say it's like mother of all vinegars. It sounds like. Yeah, vinegar mother. What factors affect the size, speed and appearance of the mother's formation, by the way, I saw on a video and this is my new thing. This is amazing. For those of you that aren't allowed to curse, like, let's say you're around small children are in a place. This guy had an explosion happened right next to him in a video, you know, the kinds of videos I watch. And he goes, Mother Father, I was like, genius. How have I not thought of that before? If you use that before, guys.

I think I've used it a couple times. Father,

like I can use that in front of the kids, which is genius anyway, and then what maybe Oh, yeah, vinegar mother anyway. Wine type vinegar type vinegar, starter, light heat cetera in par ticular, will a mother be able to form in a small glass vial help?

Small glass vial isn't the the ideal environment because vinegar mother has developed at the at the vinegar air interface. And if there isn't a lot of space up there. If there isn't a lot of surface area, it's gonna take a lot longer. So I would suggest a broader neck vessel of some kind. Yeah, also, temp temperature is pretty important because vinegar acetic bacteria. kind of enjoy a moderate temperature. Not too cool. Not too warm, like 20 Celsius 70 or so. Fahrenheit. So if you can keep it in a place like that, that helps.

And you want to cheesecloth, the top of it so that you don't get the vinegar to be vinegar flies and what else? You got to get the alcohol content, right?

Yep, yep. Yep. And I would something I didn't get a chance to look into. But my bet is that white wine or something like that would be would work faster than red, because you know, red wine has all those funnelflix They're probably to some extent, antibacterial. And you might have to overcome that.

I'm sure someone's done the study, right? Yeah. Have you ever had the people who like we had we made a kombucha and the Kombucha is Excuse one's got a lot of alcohol in it because of the way we made it and you taste it and you're like you have no alcohol because it's alternative vinegar. It's like been like acetyl vactor hit like a baseball bat ever had

that happen? No, no, but I could imagine it.

Yes. Well, I don't have to imagine it because it happened. And I was like, Listen, if you like, I like vinegar beverages, so I'm cool. they've tasted like, you know, do you like heavy vinegar beers you like like Rodenburg Grand Cru and all that stuff? Yeah. Can you pound a whole hypervideo and I like the medium grade, like, medium amounts of vinegar, like Rodon Rodenburg style, but not the straight vinegar suck ones? I don't know.

Yeah. It depends on how much I mean, a little bit. Like a half. Oh, and the right circumstances is nice. But yeah, not

stars. You. Yeah. You like to drinking vinegars like? Yeah, like Andy Ricker has nice yeah, I like those to be too. Yeah. Jeff. Nice. Jackie molecules, right. Jackie? X agree, though. Delicious. Nice. All right. What about Ralph bear? I'm not a fan. You know, I know. I do like it. Smokey, like Smokey Bear. Can you can take a whole one.

No, but at Samia in Williamsburg. They did a weird smoked nude. Yes, I

had the same one. So good with the smoke beer. Delicious. Yep.

Incredible.

Why do you first of all, why do you need smoke on smoke? What's the smoke on smoke? Did they serve it with a smoked cheese? And then you smoke a cigar with it? Like, I wish so much smoke.

It worked in the circumstance. You got to try it. Dave. You got to get over there. All right,

good. Yeah, well, you know the Stasi a little known fact, Anastasia. Eight. You ready for this? Check? II Miss dassia Eight in Queens over the weekend. What? Queens? Wow. I was like, Oh my God. She like died or something. Someone said there's an imposter. She's like, Yeah, I was over eating in Jackson Heights. I was like, damn,

did a helicopter bring her there?

He's like, you know, because it's to get Anastasia to cross the river other than for this show is like for Queens to Brooklyn. I would go to Queens faster than you got to say that closer to the microphone. So everyone here in Brooklyn. Queens. Queens is fine. Brooklyn. I hate. Wow.

There it is. Wow.

I love the molecules, man. Okay, by the way, Harold McGee, I don't think has heard the Jackie molecules ringtone he busted? Oh, yeah. Give me a minute. Tell me when you're ready. Yeah. And I'll hit with some with some questions here. Pedro, how do you think you pronounce pa i v. A. Portuguese Python. Hiva Python? Pedro pavor. Good afternoon cooking dishes team. My name is Pedro from Lisbon. Portugal. I've never been I'd love to go though. I really like Portuguese cheese. Like Portuguese cheese.

I do do and I've never been either. Really? Yeah. Well, you

know, if you're out there, Portugal. If you're out there, let me dance. Harold McGee would like to go to Portugal. One of you needs to reach into your wallet. And like figure out some sort of conference that you're going to fly him over there so he can hang out and eat all of your delicious thistle rennet and cheese and pound a whole boatload a port and if you need some chump named Dave to come on to well, you know, hey, that's, you know, all the better. You don't I mean, Jack the bartender you'd like to import right? I certainly do. I think we should start putting in some cocktails. Well, D got the white the white port did any of that work?

We were still working on it. It's getting there. Yeah, carbo application is looking good.

Now kebabs carb application. Yeah, we have a gin and tonic question later if we get to it. So anyway, okay. In fact, it's this one. And I would like to submit a question about gin and tonic. Here we go. Ready? Jack of the bar. You will also win on this one since you do this every Dang day. As well except for the past week you were tells the cocktail. Gin is now a big trend in Portugal, and it's really easy to buy a decent gin and a decent tonic. Most people claim to know how to serve the best G and T and that for each gin there is a perfect serve. Well, it's very it's kind of a there's more of the Spanish trend. Right the big goblet style do you like the big goblet style?

I'm not a huge gin and tonic drinker but I mean I enjoy pretty much any g&t if it's I'm just sipping on it casually so I never

casual I never I'm never casually sipping. However, in the YouTube clip the gin and tonic Dave Arnold's cocktail University the gin served is totally different from the one served in the other side of the Atlantic. Starting in the glass, no one uses flutes. Ours are closer to a small fish tank for a goldfish. Yeah, I know it. I understand that. It's because carbonation must not be as important over there. Normally we first put and swirl the ice in the glass to cool it. Then we flavor it with Botanics junipers estive, orange lemon or even strawberries. Then pour the gin and finally the tonic carefully to keep the gas of the tonic which you can't if there's ice in a big fish bowl. Let me tell you something about let me tell you something about about bubbles my friend. Like the vast majority have bubbles are lost at the surface of the glass right at the surface. So what a flute does for you it actually doesn't do a good job of presenting the volatiles to your nose which is why real champagne freaks like like our good friend and Stasi the hammer Lopes prefer to drink their champagne. A lot of a white wine glass my right, yes. Yeah, because the aroma is better. And in fact, a lot of people, a lot of Konya. Senti, like their champagnes too warm for my taste and wide open because they actually want to dumb the bubbles down because it lets them taste the wine more. What about you?

For me, it depends a lot on the champagne. I just had this wonderful experience of a 25 year old vividly Coase or from a humongous bottle. It had no bubbles left whatsoever, but it was delicious and like no other champagne I'd ever had. But if it's a you know, a young one and and really bubbly and really you sparkly. I actually like flutes. I mean, because you can enjoy the visual spectacle as well as the the taste and smell and spurts.

Yeah, yeah. You know, Alicia Blair, the champagne scientists from LA. Who lives in grass. Why How do you why do you pronounce that town that way? As we would say, Reims grass, but it's he did the studies on the traditional coops, which we use for cocktails and flutes and his I believe, said maybe we should do white wine glasses is a good compromise. You read those studies? Yeah, yeah. Yeah. Yeah, he's

Mr. Champagne, or what a job

or not. Let me ask you this on that. 25 year old Vuv clique. How was the acidity?

It was bracing. It was very high. That's part of what made it so wonderful. Because otherwise it was kind of caramely ready, you know, all those. It was rich, but also had a nice backbone.

How far had the in the absence of massive amounts of co2? How far had the yeasty ready gone to oxidized and Sherry like?

It wasn't Sherry, like it was it was just really rich. It was dark, too. And when I first saw it, I thought, This doesn't look good. But but it was beautiful. Nice. Who bought it? The owner of the restaurant and who which was celebrating its 25th anniversary bought it when the restaurant opened for this occasion.

Foresight Jack. Okay, anyways, are closer to a small fish tank for a goldfish normally, we already did this at the then pour the gin and tonic. And finally, the tonic to keep the gas and the tonic in the picture attached, which I don't have is one of the results for the Blum gin. The question is, Is it okay to serve it as we do? Or are we missing something important? Thank you for your time. And thank you for the great program, Pedro, PS, as you see, as you see it, what should be the first steps into the cvwd world? Do you recommend an emerge any immersion circulator, in particular for cvwd? And as a home cook, what should I pay attention to? Look, they're all they're all going to work I'm not sure about in Portugal, like what the like, which ones are good for, for Europe. They're all they're all. They're all they're all going to work, just get one that you know, you can afford, they're going to be happy with I like the professional ones. But those are still like 800 bucks, but it's there to me, like I know, I can beat on him pretty hard. But I've had experience with all the lesser priced ones as well. And they're all they're all going to work for you. There's so much good stuff out there on the internet, I would go to like ChefSteps you know, one of those places. I have the rudiments of a low temperature cooking primer on a cooking issues, which is still available. Unfortunately, apparently you can't buy cialis on our blog anymore. Paul finally got rid of the Cialis ads. But we didn't by the way, we never made any money off of that. It was just I don't know how they got hijacked. But just go there. Now. As to the question is, Are you doing anything wrong? Making your gin and tonics this way? Well? Oh, no. I mean, if you like them, then you like them? Like, and it's good. I mean, like, I mean, there are certain things that are an abomination. Right. So like, if you were like, what I really want to do is take Pepsi Cola, which my wife saw someone do this in Shanghai once, if you want to take Pepsi Cola and mix it with Petros regardless of whether the Patriots, his fake Patriots are real patriots. Like if you want to take even something that might pass his patriots right. So you'll maybe it's like, you know, you know, not some sort of closer like related you know, wine Yeah, that's a mistake. You know, that's just you're making an error there. You know what I mean? You know, I would say even frankly, like, alternating between your glass of Pepsi and petrusa is a horrible mistake. You know, because the phosphoric acid just not going to play nicely with the wine and flavors or the polar are going to ride right over it and then it's just not it's no, no, well, I would practice first if you're going to do that with with some yellowtail right stars. And yeah, Hotel and Pepsi fine. See whether you can get a decent yellowtail and Pepsi. And then if you have a billionaire come then sure dump the petri dish and still let me see you. With a gin and tonic, it's a little bit different because the flavors you're going to be working with are all going to be good. I tend to want the purest essence of a gin and tonic possible, which means it's the I'm going to start with a gem that I like Tanqueray. And I'm going to use only quinine, sulfate and sugar, and lime juice that we you know, we clarify, because I'm looking for a particular thing, a highly carbonated, extremely crisp, extremely dry, pure gin and tonic with a bunch of No, no extraneous crap. That's what I'm interested in. Does that make me right? Yes, no, I'm kidding. No, no, it just, it's, you know, that's the way I want to do it. That's the goal I've set for myself. But you know, we don't all have to have that goal. Right? There's honor in lightly carbonated fish bowls. Actually, I have to say that unless there's so much ice, like any drink that's handed to you with the exception of an old, an old fashioned and even in that case, because you can drink an old fashioned quickly if you so desire, like any drink should be small enough that it can be consumed by whoever is consuming it in under under five to 10 minutes mean really under two minutes, really, like right away. But other words like I like if the average consumer is taking much longer than like 10 or 15 minutes to drink is sitting there dying. I don't care what kind of drink it is, it's dying. If it's a shake and drink, it's warming up too much. If it's a stirred drink, it's warming up too much. If it's a stir drink on a rock, it's diluting too much. If it's, God forbid, you know, a tall drink in a bunch of ice. It's just turned into a watery mess. You know, if I could change the way the drinking world works in general, and it is going this way in London and other places, it would be smaller drinks drunk more quickly. Yeah. Yep. Okay, we see, you know, stars, we might actually make it through the question, say, can you believe that? Can you believe that? Steve, actually, we will. We're not going to make it. All right. Stephen from Moscow wrote in good to speak to you a few months back at the bar because he came to the bar. No luck finding that his ego remember his ego? His ego the sturgeon spine? You ever use that? Harold? They used to rip the spine out of surgeons?

Right. Yeah. For Kubiak and things like that. No, I've never never played with it myself.

Hard to get Anastasia and I went to what's that? What's that? What's the neighborhood? Like Brighton, right, Brighton Beach, which is like the Russian thing. And she tried to pull her like, but basically they just handed us like a chunk of frozen sturgeon that had like a little bit of spinal cord. And so we didn't really have enough to like, rip out the whole spinal cord and do the dirty stuff. But I wonder whether any other spinal diseases there's anything special about a sturgeons spinal cord? Is it the spinal cord itself? I think it is anything special about a steroid and spinal cord that you know of?

No, I mean, it's it's gelatinous. That's really all I know about it.

And how fundamentally different is spinal cord material from like brain material, just shorter length, axons, and the brain?

You know, I should have prepared for this, but my, my recollection from Chris Cosentino in San Francisco used to sell a tuna spine tuna backbone, that there's the spinal cord itself, which is tissue like the brain. It's, it's, you know, nerve cells. But then there's this gelatinous cartilaginous material, which is sort of the shock absorber that prevents the nervous tissue from suffering. And I think it's that that shock tissue that you actually

Yeah, I used to serve that. I love that stuff. It's good. It's like kind of like real that needs to be really fresh. Yes. But it's like super kind of clean and see watery, be that but that's not what the Zika is. No, I think the Zika is the actual cord now you pick it up as he goes this stuff because if Zika comes in a long strip,

right, right. Yeah, no, that's that's my sense. But But

how did you like what did Chris do to it to the to the

just gave it to you and you kind of broke it open yourself? And I think

we had that together. But he roasted the outside of it. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. I've only ever served it raw, like so we would take one spine, clean off the vertebrae. So it was like, like, like, you know, wiped clean. Like you put it in one of those like, flesh eating beetle containers. You know, I'm talking about and then I didn't do that though. Please. I don't wanna hear about it. And then we scooped fresh ones that were like off these kind of the gross meaty carcasses and then put them on like, they refresh. Remember, we did that we did that for starships, but that's

no Chris roasted it and then kind of sprinkled all kinds of well pepper and then various other herbs and spices on it. So it was really really flavorful and delicious.

Yeah, I remember that. Okay, so he was not able to find it. And he says it's effectively unavailable and it's dry form and extremely difficult to get fresh. Especially because how do you always How do you pronounce you know, the the critical endangered species? It's CTS. Is that how you pronounce it? CIT ES. Anyway, you have to you know, you don't want to slaughter the last sturgeon. I think? Probably not. Here's my question regarding temperature maintenance. We'll be spending some time this summer with an Italian style. But it's not it's going to be in Moscow, not in Italy. So it can only be Italian style. Stars. style. What do you think about Italian style things? She gave it? She can't see what she gave you. On Italian style. She likes Italian. You don't like Italian? Do you like Italy? Yeah, you like Italy, but not Italians. Right? Another one of the things right up there with biscuits. Even though whatever even though whatever. Like again to Italian style outdoor brick barbecue. Something like the picture attached which unfortunately don't have, oh, it's gonna be in Sardinia. He's gonna be in Sardinia. There have been even though even though I want to go, I'd love to go. By tradition, I will need to buy traditional like this is a good tradition. I will need to roast a suckling pig or half for sure. Among many other things. Any thoughts on the cook for a long cook? How best to regulate the temperature? We'll be in New York City next week. Hope to see you at the bar, but I missed it. Regards, Steven. So the classic one that can be roasted whole is the is the coach ENIO style, but they're minuscule pigs. Like how much of those things weigh? You ever had one of those?

It's never done one myself beef. But yeah, they're a few pounds. Delicious. Yeah. Oh, yeah. Yeah.

Yeah. I don't know, dude, whether you want to do the like the super slow roast on, it's gonna be hard to regulate. If you don't do it a lot. You know what I mean? Yeah, it's one of those things where you need to do it a lot. temperature regulation in one of those big ovens is all about just, you want to build the temperature up over the course of hours and hours and hours. And then wait for it to get down to a point that you're going to be okay, throw it in, and then let it ride down or something like that, you're not going to re fire if it's a big retain heat masonry, and you're not going to refi or during the roast because you'll you'll new golf the outside of the skin, I wouldn't even I would even maybe protect the pig for the first part of the thing. And it was something it's going to you know, like leaves or some crap. But almost like you were bearing in the ground, all those retain heat things start, you still want to start it at like kind of like the maximum and then let it ride down. Would you agree? Yes. Yeah, I don't think you're you're not going to be maintaining temperature in any active sense inside of inside of a retain heat masonry oven, would you? Would you think so? Hell

yeah. And and it's difficult, if you're not familiar with it, you know, to know how it's going to behave.

So yeah, I would do a couple of firings first, and like, kind of see how it does. But here's another solution, what you can do is you can if you if you if you could muster it, because you can do it in like trash bags, you could do the whole thing, low temp, right, and then just throw it in a flaming hot one to crisp up the skin. And it'll be as delicious as it can be those who've heard me rant before, know that I am somewhat suspicious of whole hog or any whole animal cookery. Because there it is not possible to cook the tenderloin of a pig. I'll just leave it there. No, I'm kidding. It's not possible to cook the tenderloin of a pig and have it not be nasty, either pasty or dry, when it's either going to be pasty, nasty, or dry, nasty and have the rest of the pig cooked properly. And so the solution to that is unless the pigs extraordinarily young and then it builds itself on its own kind of fat as it goes and then whatever because also can cook really quickly. But you know, barring that, you know what the what you have to do is hack up that dry meat and mix it with the good meat so that that's what the barbecue guys like what's his name? Ed wises name out of my head that the big hole hole guy down Ed Mitchell, Ed Mitchell. He's like, Yeah, but I liked a little dry trunk look why why why, why, why, why why what you should do is rip all of this stuff out and cook it the way it wants to be cooked and then somehow reassemble it into a pig and crisp up the skin. That would be like that would be amazing, right? Yeah, yeah. Yeah. All right. All right, Dave. Oh, my God, we

got we do have a bonus segment coming up.

All right, we will. Okay, so Peggy from Australia, we got within one question, Peggy. You are the one that we have left. So I'm gonna get you and your circulator questions next week on the Cooking issues. However, before we sign out and thank Jack Schramm from the bar from Booker and DAX Anastasia Jackie molecule, you can pay Jackie molecules.

Oh, yeah, I can do that real real real quick. All right. Let's see who else you have to thank.

When I'm gonna say

yes. There it is. All right. So we pre recorded an extra 15 minutes of cooking issue. Here's a guide to some of the other questions. So if you didn't hear your question and your name's not Peggy, then it means that we don't know about it. We got them all. So stay tuned after this for another 15 minutes of us

bones cooking issues,

and welcome back to the extended 15 minutes or so of cooking issues because we just knew we'd need to spend more time with Harold McGee. Hello, how you doing? Well, thanks. Great to be here. Yeah, in actuality, I don't want to lie to you. We're, we're taping this before the initial thing. So we're just starting now, but we figured we'd tack it on at the end. So I'm going to pretend that Anastasia had to leave for a minute even though she actually hasn't arrived yet. Okay. Yeah. And Jack Is this the first time I've ever been in the studio early? Has this ever happened? 100% Yes. All right. So I got some questions in that like to get to here's one that I think Harold will particularly like she doesn't want to work in a Tyler Simon's wrote in Dear David Anastasia, and Jackie molecules and Harold in a question mark because he sent it back when I said there was only a 50% chance of Harold McGee. Are there any hard and fast rules for making caramel candies? I'm interested in making dairy free caramels and curious if there is simply a fat sugar ratio that is required or something more complicated is going on? I eg protein stabilized in motion? How can I make something like an almond milk caramel? Thanks so much. Tyler Simmons from UC Davis. PSU spoiled me. I can't seem to find any other podcasts that are both as entertaining and educational as yours. Keep up the good work. Well, thanks. Thanks for the kind words and I know that Harold has done I don't know if you've done with this kind of caramel you've done with straight sugar caramelization you've done a lot of work ever worked for this kind of stuff?

I have not. I mean, I have worked with standard caramel candies. And with this kind of thing, it seems to me that what you do is you go into the kitchen and you give it a shot and you see what happens and you're trying to adapt. So I imagined it would behave very much like an ordinary milk emulsion or dairy emulsion, but I'm not sure.

Right. Well, except for mean again, like somehow I didn't read it thoroughly enough because I was rushing in and I thought we were dealing with more of a straight sugar thing. I don't know if you know sometimes it happens to you like you read and you're like I got it, you know McGee's gonna get I didn't read it was kind of a different kind of candy altogether. My one. My one thing is, you know that casing like the way it browns, the way it undergoes kind of, you know, Browning reactions. I don't know if you're gonna get the same effect.

Oh, I bet you won't. And in fact, probably the protein content of the almond milk is lower than ordinary milk. I mean, that would be my guess. Anyway. But that's why you play with it. And if it doesn't work, using the standard recipe, well, maybe you start by reducing the almond milk or something like that. Going and yeah,

yeah. And I presume it's well depends on what you use, but I presume it's also higher fat right? than regular milk. Not with California almonds. Boom, boom. Take that low fat, California almonds. Not low fat, but they're lower in fat.

Yeah, yeah. Yeah, they're there. Yeah, we need to be growing better varieties in California.

Why is it that they started growing these like why is it that the standard California almond is incredibly low, comparatively low fat? Almonds. I don't

know the history of that except that you know, the usual sort of thing probably the the breeders are looking for disease resistance and yield and not so much flavor. I think that's probably a

simple as that. Here's another one for you. We talked a little bit about yesterday night. Andrew writes in about chickpeas. Love the show. I'm one of those people who went and listened to the entire back catalogue after discovering it that hurts us so much. Imagine listen to all this. Despite your warnings along the way that this was crazy. I have two questions regarding rehydrating dried legumes. Now that I have an electric pressure cooker. Yes, I know they're not ideal. But no regrets after picking one up for cheap on Craigslist. You ever use the electric ones? No, I haven't. What kind of pressure cooker you have

a nut that old Kuhn. Rikon. Yeah,

yeah, yeah, they were. I love them. I have mine. In fact, I've welded the handle back onto mine after the handles smashed off and you know, I've lost a part of the top. I've replaced all the gaskets on it, and it still works. Anyway. Okay, first, I'm quite happy with my go to hummus recipe, but I find the texture to be off when I'm using my rehydrated chickpeas instead of using canned. I've tried a range of cook times, but they transition directly from crunchy with that raw flavor to Amelie, pasty, overdone texture that's still apparent after going into the food processor. I assume commercial canneries rehydrate them too. So I'm wondering what I'm missing an ancient bag of beans perhaps it's for the question beans. Does the water need some kind of additive like calcium in order to retain some texture? I'd stay away from that like hardening that like there's been a bunch of studies while that Harrigan to it. But there's been a bunch of studies on the way Back in the day, like in the early 1900s, I think where people were noticing that the canned beans had very different qualities on different parts of the country based on the water that was available in the canning thing. And they were would run through and they did a whole series of studies on the tune, you need to worry about our calcium, magnesium, calcium, magnesium, like, you know, parts per 1000 versus, versus hardness in the beans and you know, and then you get a situation where they're uniformly too hard. And then there's the intermediate zone where some that presumably are less well soaked or harder than others, or whatever. Let me finish the question, yet yet yet another yet another day of going off on a tangent. Okay, I assume commercial canneries rehydrate them to that is correct, they do. So I wonder what I am missing ancient bag of beans as the water needs some kind of additives like calcium. Any thoughts on how to recreate canned chickpeas or other beans at home? Second, when it comes to preparation without the gaseous consequences, and this is why I thought McGee would be ideal on this because for those of you I'm not going to make him say the story again, unless he would like to in which case he's welcome to. But the entire on food and cooking phenomenon that has, you know, helped fuel so many of us in in our push towards thinking more scientifically about the problems of deliciousness was fueled by the problem of farting. With beans. True It was It wasn't the and you can say as much of that about you as you want. But anyway, when it comes to preparation without the gaseous consequences, the internet is filled with anecdotal advice. What's a good evidence based method to reduce this particular side effect? I'm mainly interested in black beans, black eyed peas, and split peas if it makes a difference. Thank you so much. And I hope this doesn't contribute too much towards more ketchup shows. Well, in fact, we're handling it in a ketchup segment. So there you have it, Andrew. So what do you think?

Ah, so where to begin? Maybe with the I'm a little confused about his question because he said he's bothered by a pasty mealy texture and chickpeas and chickpeas. Yes. But then he's also talking about maybe adding calcium for texture when it sounds as though what he actually wants is an absence of texture.

Well, I you know, my impression is that what's happening is is that some some maybe have gone over while others are still hard. So maybe he's thinking to calcium is going to make them equally but it was just going to make you equally shafted. Yeah, yeah, exactly. Yeah. Yeah. So go the opposite direction if you if you had to. Yeah, yeah. And then a hummus. Who cares? Anyway, you're gonna burn the hell out of the hard part. Listen, I'm gonna let her do this. But what I'm saying is, the hard part is being able to make a decent chickpea that you just eat. And if you can make a decent chickpea that you just eat and you like the texture of it when you're eating it, then it's going to make a good hummus. Yeah, yeah, right. It's difficult Go ahead. And

so there is the the ancient being phenomenon. If beans of any kind sit around for too long at especially at too high, a humidity, they end up with this hard to cook quality that you just really can't get around. So you want to start with fresh beans as fresh as possible. Well, baking

soda fix it or No, not even?

I don't think so. No, it's just the cell walls are kind of cemented together much more permanently than they would be otherwise.

So my like my grandpa just got one more and more ordinary

ordinary beans. So start with as fresh beans as possible and then soak them pre soak them and then cook them long enough to make them soft. I mean, that's kind of what it comes down to check them every once in a while see where you're getting to the point where the texture is close to the eatable that you just just described and then go from there.

I mean, I think one of the problems if he's doing it in a pressure cooker first of all, like look, especially if you have beans of varying ages, right but they haven't gone all the way to ordinary bean syndrome. The kind of longer you can let them soak the better off you are because the more they will all Aquila braid to an equal precooked moisture, right? The harder you force water into a bee into a bean or a chickpea that hasn't hydrated, you know been soaked properly, the more you're going to get an overcooked outside and undercooked inside. Right. When you say you also want to, like Avoid violent boiling.

Yes, yes. Although if you're going to end up peering at anyway then maybe that's not such a big deal. But yeah, it's the we generally don't realize it but the step that takes the longest the process that takes the longest in the cooking of beans isn't heating them up. It's getting the water from the outside to the inside. And so if you take care of that ahead of time, then you eliminate all kinds of problems including textural problems because that soaking will leach out some of the, the ions that are holding those cell walls together.

What are your thoughts on the on the warm water pre soak?

It's quicker.

What? It's less gentle on the on the bean coats. It doesn't matter on a chickpea, though, like on some beans that lose their coats. They don't you find that because they rehydrate so much faster that you get that wrinkly phenomenon. And they

Yeah, that's true. They they expand faster than the insides do. And so you ended up with that with that wrinkling, which pulls it away from the surface of the beam and causes them later to fall off or not to look as nice,

right? He's also cooking in a pressure cooker. And so one of the things I Oh, by the way, I mean, I'm assume everyone knows this, but if you want your beans to cook, don't add acid to them at all until they're soft, right? Okay? And what about salt in the soak

salt in this oak, in my experience, and from my looking at the literature, it slows the hydration. But once it's hydrated, the cooking actually goes much quicker because of the sodium ions displays calcium in the structure. And that helps loosen things up.

So that could perhaps make it more even. Yeah, yeah, but you have to allow more

time because if there's salt in the in the water, then it's going to take a lot longer to penetrate into the bean itself.

Now, he says he's using a pressure cooker, one thing I would be wary of with a pressure cooker is, well, a couple things. If you don't know whether it's done, you should wait for it to come down naturally, if you do a flat a flash off on the pressure cooker, it really does. It's the equivalent of have a uniformly boiling throughout the liquid, including the liquid that's inside of the chickpeas. And so I think you're going to get kind of blast apart on the on the on the on the thing, but that so you have to let it come down naturally and then bring it back up. So it can it can take more time that way. But you know, after a couple of batches you should be able to dial in, in your time, but the longer you let it soak, the less I think you're gonna have batch to batch variants unless you get a really set of old ordinary beans. There was a study that friggin you were there it was the year we were at Madrid fusing together was like oh five, or something like this mo 60506 Something like this. And oh six, like January of oh six? I think so yeah, you were quite sick at that, too. Everyone was sick, everyone had gotten food poisoned, or some sort of like stomach fight like all the all these famous chefs had gotten like this horrible, like, you know, virus or food poisoning, like Thomas Keller was stumbling around on stage. And it's kind of a nightmare. But since I wasn't at the time invited to any of the fancy stuff, I did not catch any dread diseases. And so I was able to wander around it, you know, at will. But I remember one of the presenters was a Spanish chef and I looked for the paper and advances but I couldn't find a Spanish chef who had done some research at Spanish university about chickpeas and various temperature regimes both in cooking and in soaking in the textural differences. You remember that? No, no. I mean, I couldn't find it. I tried to find it. But you know that, you know, there was a great phenomenon back then. And in that period of time, especially in Europe, actually only in Europe. I mean, recently in the US, like there's been some kind of collaborations like that. But there were just all these institutions who were like, yeah, well let you know, real scientists talk to chefs and answer actual evidence based kind of stuff. You know, yeah. Does that really happen anymore? Oh, yeah.

A lot of fact, I think a lot. There's a lot more these days than then back then.

Well, here. Yeah, they just never happened before,

I think in in Europe as well. Those were back then it was something that was kind of strange to everybody. First of all, that chefs would be getting together in large numbers and sharing their recipes sharing their new ideas, rather than hoarding them and then collaborating with people who had more technical knowledge than they did to figure things out. That's, it's, there's a lot of that everywhere now.

Right? I mean, the classic one in the English speaking world that you always used to talk about in classes was they Heston when you want to talk about that for

sure. Heston has collaborated with people at a half dozen different universities in the UK. The the collaboration that I think makes the most difference to most cooks is the one he did with Donald Mottram at Reading University. This is in like 2005 2006 where Heston was preparing tomatoes in the kitchen. In the standard classical French way of peeling the tomatoes, scooping out the seeds And then chopping the, the wall of the tomato for some beautiful sort of garnish. And he was popping bits of tomato in his mouth as he was doing this and notice that the seeds seem to have way more flavor than the rest of the tomato. And so he called up his friend Mottram at reading and asked him was a true that there was more, he thought, mommy and acidity in the in the jelly around the seeds. And Mottram looked at the literature couldn't find anyone had done a study of this. And so he and Aston collaborated on a study. And they found that not only was there a difference in the concentration of these things in human around the seeds, but that it was a huge difference was like three or fold three or four fold difference in glutamate and organic acids and so on. So the intensity of flavor in a tomato comes from the stuff that in many cuisines you just kind of toss out or put in a stock or something like that, and don't even make use of

specifically the French used to make fun of it. Well, I would force you to make fun of the French when we were at the French Culinary Institute.

Yeah, yeah. Yeah. Kind of fun to to remember. Back in the day, when for Adria was coming up with a new dish every six hours. A couple of them were actually based on taking scooping the seeds out of the inside of a tomato and just serving them all by themselves. And they were delicious.

And then selling the outside to the French for use in some sort of contact. Cassie, are we Hey, before I go into this, I'll ask whether you like have any Do you know anything about thermophilic bacteria and their possible survival inside of the seaweed bags? You've heard anything about this? No, no, I haven't. I had someone a while ago who wrote in about their bags inflating after a fairly long period of time when it should have already. Everything should have been killed. And I I ascribe it to there was sauce on the inside of the bag that didn't make it to temperature in time. But then he's like, Well, why did it blow up after a long period? I don't know. And wonder whether there's ever been a case of like a thermophilic thing surviving causing gas inside of a bag. Well, how long after I mean, like hours after being put into the bath, like I think on like date, like on day two?

Well, I mean, there are spores that survive temperatures like Suvi temperatures and are actually activated by temperatures like that.

Well, in other words, while the bag was still cooking, it blew up. While it was cooking, like a day later, like 24 hours imagine 24 hours into the cook process. The bag just inflates. Okay, this is a you know, someone and Michael have written is by still every once in a while I think about it, and they can't figure it out. Because air in bones or veg will come out in the first couple of hours after it heats up. Usually, you know, within five or six hours, if you have a pocket on the inside that is being too protected from the heat such that you can generate stuff, then that'll create gas, that gas pocket will stay at a temperature that doesn't kill the bacteria because it'll be like, you know, five, six degrees below. It'll stay around 50 You'll incubate bacteria, and you'll go, but not like 24 hours later. Yeah, something weird. Something weird is going on. All right. So listen, like right. In a minute. We're going to end our extended but I have one more that I think it'd be good to end on. And you know, if you don't want to, you're willing to talk about your you're looking into the burnt almond and cyanide. Are you not willing to talk about it? Sure. All right. So we'll do this real quick. So I think this is a hyper interesting story, and one that just shows how badass Harold McGee is about thinking about stuff that we have taken for granted for not just our lives, but for the lives of everyone back to our great grandparents. Caleb Sexton wrote in because he sent us as does apricot you know, they're super high Brix apricot, they have now in California. No, yeah, did I forget the name of it, I'll get it for you. They're like Mega pipe like 2020s High 20s bricks, on the fresh fruit and what kind of acidity not enough acidity in my in my estimation, however, if you just I what I did was I sprinkled some some acid on them and they were like, you know, you know how I am anyways. But stars like them low acidity, but that's not the point. So he said I have these pits now and I want to use them the apricot kernels. And he said, Should I be worried about a Magdalene? And then he said, Well, you know, my my impression is that the sweeter the I don't know whether you met the sweeter the apricot or the sweeter the kernels themselves, the less and Magdalene is there and the less kind of worry and it immediately made me think like that you'll have an answer for that because we've talked about this before, but that also you might talk about your recent investigations into the smell of cyanide.

Right? So the standard description of the smell of cyanide is like bitter almonds, which like like almond extract. Which just seems weird because if you look at At the structure of hydrogen cyanide HCN, that's all there is to it. And then you look at the, the aroma compound that gives us the smell of bitter almonds, which is benzaldehyde, which is a carbon six carbon ring. They're just so different, how can they end up giving you the same sensory perception? I was just curious. I thought it was odd. And so I went hunting in the literature. And it turns out that there's really not that good a, an evidentiary trail to indicate that that's the case that in fact, they do smell the same. And there are several sources, one of them in perfumery, one a, a forensics text from around the turn of the century, which was talking about how can you tell if there's a suicide? How can you tell whether the person died? If it's by cyanide, then you would get this telltale odor, except that this guy says that's the standard explanation and what you're looking for. But in fact, in his experience, cyanide doesn't leave that kind of smell. And this perfusionist says that the smell of cyanide is not the same as benzaldehyde so I, I know a couple of scientists who have used it cyanide as reagent in their research, and I want to get to them and see either whether they can give me their feeling about this and whether maybe I might take a sniff out carefully controlled stiff ly So

wow, it's them. They can counteract it right or no if they get you right away.

That's a good question. I should probably check that out before i

i would definitely check that because it's Sunday we would love to have you back on cooking issues. So I don't want to read in the I don't want to read in the papers that you you know that the Curious Cook was killed by his curiosity. I would not be I would not be pleasant. And that has been our extended 15 minutes of cooking issues and Harold McGee

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