Cooking Issues Transcript

Episode 281: The Day After Tomorrow


Hello, everybody, and welcome to a brand new series on heritage radio network called the culinary call sheet where we give a peek into the back kitchen of culinary media. I'm your host, April Jones,

and I'm your co host, Darren bresnitz. Part of why we started the show was to offer an unofficial mentorship for anyone who's interested in learning about all aspects of food and video, whether that's TV, social media online, or just something you want to do for fun.

Absolutely what was once niche or a little silly, as I'm sure you remember, Darren, when we started out, this man has now become such a massive playing field for so many creatives using food as the medium.

It's something that has driven us professionally and personally, for so many years. What excites me the most about this show is that we're going to sit down with some of the industry leaders to hear how they made it and what drew them into this industry.

With 20 years in the culinary production game ourselves. We're hoping we can give through these conversations an insider's view into personal stories from the field, as well as an in depth behind the scenes look into some of the most popular food programming. In today's evolving culinary media landscape.

We'll be covering everything from how to style your food, to how to license IP, to developing your own ideas, and some tips from the masters of how to host your own show.

Yeah, it's a little bit of conversation, how to and how do you do the things that you do in color media, which I'm so excited about? I love so many of the guests that are coming on this season. We have talent from Food Network from Vice media eater refinery 29,

we've met some of the best people in the world both in front of and behind the camera. And we're bringing them all together to share their stories, their delicious adventure and their unique journey into this crazy world.

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This episode is brought to you by Joule the immersion circulator for Su V by ChefSteps. Order now at chefsteps.com/joul E.

You're listening to heritage radio network were a member supported food Radio Network broadcasting over 35 weekly shows live from Bushwick, Brooklyn, join our hosts as they lead you through the world of craft brewing behind the scenes of the restaurant industry inside the battle over school food and beyond. Find us at Heritage radio network.org

Hello and welcome to cooking issues this is Dave Arnold, your host of cooking issues coming to you live from the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from roughly 12 to roughly 1245 in Bushwick Oh yeah, well there's actually nobody here right now because Roberta is is closed.

Hey had their staff party last night he said this every

year dude every years like they were mopping up a murder scene this morning. Here Okay, so Stassi to hammer Lopez is with us we got Dave in the booth you guys doing? So what the hell man Porter has to come in and see the freakin poor Porter has to come in and move stuff around they party and then they can't go to work Listen, let's you know who I told you know who I respect no offense you guys here but as you're not here to be offended, but like the freakin guys at like Nomad EMP. They will burn their freakin four star restaurant to the freaking ground and they'll stay right they'll like be like there'll be swimming in the in like pools of their own liquor and vomit. They will somehow manage to like pressure wash the nastiness off of their bodies and show up and deliver impeccable service the next day. That's true. That is the way it is done. You know what I'm saying? This place? No offense. They look like you guys like you guys fence. I'm just saying the staff tends to affairs

outside like did you walk in that way? I walked into the it smells like beer. It smells like there's like sticky on your shoes. There's a wine bottle and the entry here and

a movie theater. ask you a question

made you angry. He's this guy with his like look at him and say

no, he's literally so the Porter has covered himself like Batman in like some sort of Cape of a recycle bag so he's not showered with the disgusting stuff that he has to like wade through now. He literally has a Batman cape on a blue plastic trash bag as a as a Batman came to protect himself from the horror Davis family show I think that's one of the serve Oh god, can we show family show? Yes. Do you need help? Family Show Dave Jeez Louise there's a disco ball here. I might steal that steal I love disco balls. I think they would notice I built a disco ball. I told you that story right? I built a disc of I made it myself. I didn't have the money so I I literally took a mirror and cut it with glass cutters and glued it to a styrofoam ball. Found my child isn't college found my childhood Erector Set Motor, glued like two by fours together had a bet I took a back in the day we used to have these power supplies on our computer so they wouldn't go down, strapped one of those to my back with a strobe light and like a blender and would walk around playing like disco music with a strobe light and a disco ball over my head. I like disco balls. Who doesn't like disco balls.

See you were the party.

I was the party. I was a party. I we had a gig one night and I brought it to the gig. I actually played with a disco ball over my head because we were playing in some crappy bar called poco. Loco. And Walt's the guy who ran Poco Loco made some inappropriate like hand touching of the guitarist girlfriend anyway. That's beside the point. I lost the disco ball that night. It was a weekend trip trouble for this. We were not playing disco Dave. In case you did not know this.

I walked around with this music thing.

I walked out sometimes. But when I was at the gig, I was playing you know our early 90s kind of grunge punk, grunge funk punk, that, you know, we were that part of that part of it. We were at the same time as you want. Your big Chipettes man there we were. But first of all, they lost me mother's milk was the last album that I liked. So everyone that knows the chili peppers net like I was an uplift mofo party plan, kind of a fellow and a huge fish bone fan. I was a giant fish bone fan, like so like, I started and this has nothing to do with anything but like that in that era, like I was listening to. For California stuff. I was like chili peppers, fish bone, early stuff. As soon as Anthony Kiedis started doing ballads. I was like, Now now, you know what I mean? And then what else? I don't know, I used to listen to I don't know, like of that style. That's what I listened to I plus I listen to all the actual old stuff. And you know, we like Jane's Addiction a lot. People still listen to Jane's Addiction. I don't think so. Really? That was such good stuff. Nothing shocking. Such good stuff. Anyway, so Oh, by the way, in the stars here, and the search goes on, we still do not have a space for the new bar. I thought we had a new space for the bar. And you know, my partner went to the community board and they're not granting any no liquor licenses in that area. Oh, my God, you're such Jack leads, man. It's so hard to start me anyway. It was on Avenue A No, but what's the three? So like, the thing three, right. So I think like so for those of you that don't know, start like New York. As I said before, as much as I love it, it's incredibly unpleasant for a large number of reasons. One of which is like starting a business in New York City. The reason they say if you can make it here, you can make it anywhere. It's not that the customers it's like, literally, if you can jump through the freakin hoops to do what you need to do here, then you can basically do that anywhere because the city is designed to stop you from doing anything. Whether that is like, you know, it's to stop you from like being able to build anything because you literally can't get anywhere to do anything. Or like this discussion before. Like when you You know how when you go in the suburbs, and you buy something, you can leave it in your car for like, at least like 510 minutes,

buy it at Home Depot, then go to a Stop and Shop and you'll know your car will still be there.

Yeah, it's not like a taxi, like a taxi. Or Uber. Hey, can you hold like this 35 tons of crap that I need to actually do or build something? No. Which is why here in New York, people hire people to do the simplest freakin things. Because everything here is impossible. So starting starting at bar, which is one of the reasons I like it, like I like things. I liked self punishment, right, which is one of the reasons I like, you know, kind of like New York, but it means starting a bar in New York, first of all, if you want to get a liquor license in this city, right? If you don't, if you don't want to apply fresh, let's say I wanted to be on Avenue A which by the way I do, here's the thing, it you'd need to take somebody's liquor license who's still operational, you'd need to take them on as a 22, at least 27% partner for two years. Otherwise, it's basically a new application. Now, they might grant a new application to replace it already had an application, but you never know. They might not. You know what I'm saying? So you're taking someone in for this this two years, then, you know, so if you if you try to get a new liquor license, they're like, No, or they're like beer and wine only. Right? And here's their thing. It's just neighborhoods already saturated. They don't want the bars and what the hell do you think you're doing? Listen, I'm, I'll be 46 in March. I remember what the East Village well For bed city was like in the 80s. It was a stinking hellhole. All right now what is it that these people want to go back to? Like, what is it? Is it that like five year period, like between when the heroin addicts left the park? And when all of a sudden like all of the NYU students and people started coming into bars? Is it that five year period? They're jonesing, for? Or in the mid 90s? Right? You don't I mean, or is it? Or is it that like these old geezers who are on this thing, what they really want is they wanted to live in their leather pants, and grunge and punk life back when, when that was that because it was cool back then. And now they just want to live in mellow senescence for the rest of their life with nothing else happening. Bars need to be where other bars are. And they don't get that right. So they're like, literally, if you want a license there, there needs to be not like what they say not a saturation of places around. So if you're opening a restaurant, this is the theory, I've been telling everyone they need to listen, if you're trying to open a restaurant, right, you can be in a neighborhood that doesn't have a zillion other restaurants around you. Because if I'm going to go to lunch, or if I'm going to go to dinner, I'm only going to go to one place for lunch or dinner one, one place, and then I'm probably going to go either to another part of town or do something else. It's nice to have bars and other stuffs around. But I'm giving you a big chunk of my time, if I'm going to a restaurant, a bar on the other hand, right? Either you want to be near a bunch of restaurants, so people will go to you right before they go to dinner or right after they go to dinner as a second thing to do. Or you want to be where there's a bunch of other bars around because a huge chunk of your population is going from one bar, having a couple of drinks and then go into another bar and having a couple of drinks. They don't want to spend all night with you. And so and also if there's another bar near you and they're full, you can send them back and forth to a different bar. So bars, especially cocktail bars, they all want to be together. The exception is like local hellhole bars, like my favorite hellhole bar is the Holland bar. I haven't been in years, but I was irregular at that bar. It's up near Port Authority, which is the nastiest was the nastiest kind of place I've ever lived in. I've lived in nasty places. But you know what I mean? Like physically nasty place, but I love that bar and that bar, you show up at like 530 you start you go out, you get a slice of pizza and you come back and you close them down. That's the kind of bar it is. But that's not the kind of bar we're opening. Right? And so they don't care, right that that they don't care in these community boards that you know you're not you're not like doing a club based thing where a bunch of like, you know, underage kids are going to come and party all night long. They don't take it into account. They just don't give you the freakin license. So like one of my partners was at the meeting yesterday and they wanted to grant somebody get this a restaurant beer and wine license. This is in the East Village in New York beer and wine license only. We've never had near never the possibility of liquor right now you can get along with a beer and wine license at a restaurant at a restaurant you can get along with it especially because there's so many bars in the area. Guess what? 10pm Max on the service 10pm Max on the service. What is this? Are we are like what is this? San Jose? Listen, you need to surf stuff in that neighborhood. People are out in that neighborhood. It doesn't even get cranking until then. Ridiculous. So anti freaking business just really ticks me the heck off. Speaking of business, you want to maybe like read that piece of paper. Yeah. Hey, family show stars. I didn't say anything. I heard you I heard you start to drop an F bomb. I heard you really? Yes, I'll get sidetracked. I want you people to know something. Today's program is brought to you by and I've not got to say this in a long time. I'm pleased to say this because I used to back in the day for those of you that listen to the you know years ago, monitors pantry was one of our main spots balancers and so I always got to say modernist pantry.com and and by the way they are again so today's program is brought to you by modernist pantry providing magical ingredients for the modern cook for free videos, recipes, tips and tricks visit blog dot modernist pantry.com By the way, they're also the people who we deal with that day view that's the monster trucks version. That's good. We'll come back to the longer one later. Yeah, but you like the monster trucks version? Yeah, that's great. So Sunday Sunday, yeah. Oh my god. Sunday Sunday Sunday, amazing Yonkers raceway. So listen. sets out enough of the anger with with the thing, but does that take you off? Like that's crazy, right? Yeah. You know, I know people I know people, right, who have gone in and for whatever reason, they've gotten investors, they put all of their own freaking money plus all of their own freaking time into trying to Trump people like like the community board. They think that like restaurant tours, somehow these fat cats No, it's like, especially here in New York. It's like a lot of like cooks who want to do finally their own restaurant, they scrape together everything they have, they call it all their favors. They get an investor who basically at this point now owns them, right because they put this chunk of money in, they put all of their time and effort to try and open a place and they think they can get it done with a beer and wine only license and then their restaurant freakin fails. But cuz now maybe it isn't the restaurant wasn't meant to succeed anyway. But restaurants are so hard anyway that any sort of crap you stack on top of it makes it that much harder. It's a by the way that scraping and hearing in the background is like bodies being scraped around on the floor of Roberta's outside, I'm not providing these sound effects. Those are real actual sound effects of like garbage and like, you know, detritus being lugged around the outside of Roberta sanitize the scene of the crime the only Yeah, it's like, you know, we're gonna come in here after after the show with a Luminol to see what's kind of what's going on. There's an app for that, right? There's, that's gonna be a fake app. That was a joke. But I'm sure people have done it. People have done fake infrared camera. And by the way, in the new book, I'm using an infrared camera to try and figure stuff out. I'm doing a lot of fun stuff for the new book. We'll talk about that later. If we have time. By the way, if you have a cooking question, or a rant related question to how hard it is to start a restaurant and liquor licenses and community boards call in your questions to 718-497-2128 That's 7184972 happened just recently which that we didn't get that space now. The liquor license non I don't know how it used to be, like years ago, it was easier like we when we first did Booker and DAX obviously I was using sound bars liquor license, but I know we looked into it prior to that and it wasn't that onerous at that point. You know, the community boards have really tightened down a lot and a lot depends on every every block or area blocks as a block Association and if that block Association is a really squeaky squeaky wheel, they'll they'll though you know the hose it another tactic people will use on extant places with liquor licenses, if they have a very strong community board is they'll just phone in complaint after complaint after complaint after complaint. And they tried to do that Assam actually, for a while they phoned in complaint after complaint. And then they go in front of the SLA, which is the Liquor Board and they'll and they'll try to get your liquor license revoked. In fact, one place we looked at was a place that it had its liquor license revoked Now bear in mind so like places in this neighborhood because it's talking to the East Village again it's basically perfect for like bars especially with like restaurant bars. That's kind of clientele that goes down there that's what the businesses are these places vacant for like three four years that Keno because no one else wants to there's no way to rent it. What are you going to do? What do you what are you going to do? Open another juice shop? Yeah. juice shop? What are your thoughts on juice shops? Too many too many saturated. I don't want not gonna grant any Yeah, no juice shop licenses to saturated juice shop. I like to show I'm gonna find I think people should be able to open the businesses they want to open. That's all that so bad. No. Never thought I'd be like the hyper pro business guy. But you know, or the hyper anti regulation guy. I'm all for people keeping their neighborhood nice. I'm not trying to say that these people don't have a right to try to like look out for their neighborhood. I'm just saying they are blunt force instruments. Mentally. They don't. They're not thinking well,

it's like if my sister was moving here and said, What neighborhood should I move into? What do you think of the East Village? I'd say there's a lot of bars. You know? Yeah, that's what it is.

Right? Which is what it is. So what are they gonna do? It's like, it's like closing the freaking barn door after the horses have already freaking left. Yeah.

Smashing,

yay, capitalism. Do you know like, did you see? Do you know? You know, did you see Nancy Pelosi is town hall. Do you really a huge chunk of the millennial people which I have not my issue. I love you millennials. Not really, but they like the point is, is that like a huge chunk of them in quotes, don't believe in capitalism. What does that even mean? And how do they tweet that to each other on their iPhones? Like what the hell? Like if you don't believe in capitalism, Anastasia? Nah, no, I'm an old fogy here, but shouldn't you like, renounce it? Yeah. Like, how do you not believe in capitalism over your Twitter account? How does that work? You know what I mean? Yeah. Oh, wow. More bodies. That was a juicy one. Yeah. It's like literally crazy here. Okay. Question in. I have a question on thermodynamics. This is from Simon stylo in Charleston, South Carolina. You know, I have still not been to Charleston. How crazy is that? You've been to Charleston right? says no. We should have some sort of reason to go down maybe going Food and Wine Festival. Oh, yeah. stoked? Yeah. Nice and urban. Poor. Nice. Well, I've never been in the Stasi and I are in the food and wine business you know to come. You know, I'm sure I'm sure. It's soon. Maybe your friends at modernist pantry can get you a ticket. Why are they going? I don't know. Now you don't go sponsor like the Stasi and I first of all are so freakin cheap. We're so cheap. That like literally unless someone like hauls our behinds to places we never go, right. I mean, he's I am. You're the same way actually. Right? You're pretty cheap.

I'm cheap. I have money and spend it.

Okay, I have a question on thermodynamics. But first Some background info. We're working with a pretty standard chocolate souffle recipe. By the way, if anyone's on the chat group now, they might be helpful on this butter and sugar prep on the ramekins stored in a fridge until fired. When I go into an average really crappy tabletop convection oven, I like average really crappy. That's, that's my new life's motto. That's been your band name. What's more, like life more like a life strategy? Average really crappy? It's like that because you know why it's so awesome. Because the assumption is that everything is crap. Right? So you start from a baseline of crap. So it's not like an average. Goodness, it's average. crappiness. It's a it's like, it's like I told you my favorite thing about the German language can be encapsulated in a side by side translation I saw once where the English said works great. And the German said does not cause problems. And so it's like, it's like that kind of a glass half full, half empty. Well, yeah, it's like, yeah, it's like, it's not even half full, half empty. It's like it's you always measure in degrees of emptiness. You see what I'm saying? Like, like that. That's the thing. There is no, there's no word for full. It's like, you know, how, how empty is it? Which is a good way to look at it. Yeah, I think you know what I mean? Just you Which is weird, because we're actually actually we're actually optimistic people somewhat. Yeah, somewhat. Okay. My hypothesis what I was gonna say, Leave nihilism to your millennial friends. Fake nihilism. Yeah, like, like Fake hope. I don't like Don't get me started on millennials. Man, someone someone needs to come on the show. You know what we need, we need a millennial to come on the show and explain this crap on the Stasi a sister.

Anyway, all right. My hypothesis is that the thermal mass of the ramekin is so high compared to the batter and is such a poor conductor of heat, that the majority of the time is spent bringing the ramekin from the fridge temperature up to the cooking temperature. Instead, if you were to put the batter into a silicone mold, same size shape as the ramekins and freeze it into a puck, then simply to fire it simply put the puck in a room temp ramekin that it would reduce the cooking time. Does this hold water? Or is there a better way? Someone said that it would just turn into a molten cake that this is a crazy idea that wouldn't rise, etc. Thank you, Simon Stillwell from Charleston, South Carolina. Well, I am I think the room temperature random came probably would work fine. But if you're talking about like a fridge temperature ramekin, right, so you're talking about, let's call it four degrees Celsius, right. So you're looking at the rise from four degrees Celsius, up to a room temperature ramekin of like 23 degrees Celsius. Now I don't know how long that's going to take, we should run, you can run some thermal modeling on that. But it needs to, it's going to rise over the bake time, up to like 100, roughly 100 degrees Celsius, and it a little bit a little bit over possibly if you get some dehydration of the souffle around the edges. And it's browning, which it is. So if the souffle edges are browning at all, then it's getting above 100. But let's just call it 100, which is the boiling point of water Celsius. So what you're saying is, is that you're worried about that first 20 degree or 22 degree rise in or not even probably 20 degree rise in temperature when you're looking from fridge temperature and an overall 94 degree temperature rise. So I would say that in the baking time that it takes your souffle to go through, I don't know how much of a jump you're going to get on on the Cooking by having the ramekin being room temperature, maybe some I don't know. But it's an interesting question. I mean, it's something that like, you know, you could be you could probably study with a thermocouple you know, just take a, you know, if I wasn't working so hard on like, reading 1000s of pages of incredibly boring meet science books and texts. You people would not believe how boring and contradictory meet science documents and books are like not just boring, contradictory, but the Yeah, so if I had the time, you could like scrap some thermocouples to the inside of the ramekin and actually measure in the two cases kind of what's happening now on the other side, would a frozen souffle work? I don't know that a standard souffle recipe would work as a frozen situation because I've never tried it. But I know there are people the cuisine solutions, guys, for instance, developed tubular souffles I think Paul Perlis maybe also developed some tubular souffles so what they do is they literally now they're hydrocolloid based but what they do is, is they're freezing. They're freezing souffle, not an in in silicone molds, but I Actually in long logs and cylinders, freezing them solid and then slicing them into Pucks and dropping them into ramekins and cooking them off and they're working fine working great. Now, I again, I, you know what needs to happen there is everything needs to first melt and then rise before the outside sets too much. But so I know that it can work. I don't know that it would work with a classic souffle recipe, but I do know that it can work to have a frozen souffle. But you know, I'll try to look into it more over the next week or so I don't know if I'm going to have time or if I don't remember, I need to remember this kind of stuff was several days in advance to do some work and to call the people that I know that have worked on these systems. So it is possible, but I don't know how much you're going to. for them. The wind was they got to basically have these incredibly dense stored logs of souffle that they could ship across the country. trap them into discs, and any monkey could then have a good souffle at their at their, you know, point of service, you know, at the restaurant. And so that was a huge win for them. But I don't know, I don't my answer is the answer is I don't know. So sorry. Not very good. Not a very good health today, right? Not a good help anyone on that anyone in the chat group alive and well on on souffle ramekins. They got nothing to say about this now. Do you like souffles? Dave? I don't really have a strong opinion. Do you why? I guess I haven't had that many souffles. So when I was a kid, the souffle was pretty popular in the 70s and 80s. So when you went to a high class, you would do a high class French restaurant, they would show up and they would ask you at the beginning of the frickin meal. Now this is the baller part of it. This is a baller service private will the survey having the souffle because at the beginning of the meal, they asked you at the beginning of the meal, the implication being that they have to work up to it. You know what I mean? That like they're going to do this preparation, they're going to get their freaking Michigan wash in order to do everything. You know what I mean? They're gonna like massage. Yeah, they need x number of minutes to cook it right. So they need like 15 something 20 minutes to cook it whatever. And then this is before people have figured out how to like par cook and then finish cook. There's all this like stuff that people can do. So the so yeah, so like, they would ask you and then invariably this is the way people to upsell your desserts invariably be like, do I want this man if they're going to work that hard, hey, yeah, I want the souffle so I will get the souffle, and then they would bring it remember they would bring it to the table and they would stick the two spoons into it. Bust that sucker open and then pour the sauce in, which is a ball it's baller. I mean like get like getting a nice awesome souffle. That is like really good where it's like still creamy but not gooey on the inside. And like has that nice fluffy thing. It's risen high and you can see the steam when they bust that sucker open. That is a baller dining moment but I feel it's fallen by the wayside. It doesn't really fit into the structure of most you know, kind of hit restaurants you know, I don't know whether it's to state or, or whatever, but I have I haven't been asked that in years. I haven't been asked that. You ever see Have you seen that recently? Oh, yeah, that's old school French Did you get it now? I think so. Are you did? Was it good? Yeah. What started it was it chocolate souffle?

Gotta be chocolate. Well, no, we look. Orange flavors, chocolate flavors, you know with a contrasting sauce depending on which way you're going. These are all good but like passion fruit, I love passion fruit. But first of all, one of the things I don't like and I've said this a million times about the way we in America we think of passion fruit as being a thing. And like the basically all of the paths of flora species who all have radically radically different flavors. They all share that like weird acidity, but in terms of like muskiness and like you know, sometimes passionfruit can have that weird musky overriding known. I don't want that my souffle. I want that for different stuff. I don't want that in my souffle, and neither do I want it my cocktail people. Even though I liked those fruits, I like eating those fruits. Learn a new way to open a pomegranate the other day. So you know what, I went into a YouTube hole. And when I was researching things, I went to a YouTube hole. And then I realized that like, you know, the old technique I had gotten for pomegranates was basically you slice that sucker in half and then you beat on the you break it a little bit and then you beat it with the back of a spoon and you get the stuff out of it. But I saw these guys at least pomegranate ninjas. And they take it Did you see that terrible second, Hannibal Lecter movie where Ray Liotta gets his head chopped off now, where are they where? What's his name? That Hannibal what's the famous actor? What's his Anthony Hopkins. He cuts the top of railroad his head off and then removes it and then serves really Yoda his own brain of MCMC this state you see this terrible movie as much as I like both Ray Liotta and Anthony Hopkins terrible movie and a gross scene like overriding Lee gross for no reason. Anyway, you do that to a pomegranate. So you take the pomegranate, and it's got the little little Tufty thing on top, you put the knife to it, and you cut around and you lift the top off, like you're lifting the top of Ray Liotta skull, and you have like, this thing's there. And then here's the cool part stars, here's the part that you're gonna like, then you can see, you know how there's those SEPTA of those membrane steps to go around. You can see them, right like the five typically, I think five going down. And then you take your paring knife and you pair a long where those steps are down, almost like the lines in a basketball just along that not too deep, just the skin. And then you can go and you break all of the sections apart. And then all of them are just there. They're just there. And I saw this guy do it not one drop of juice on his table. Not one drop of juice. And I was like, sir, thank you. I went into other I was looking up Japanese shrimp trip techniques, and then deviating techniques and I've learned that my entire life my deviating technique has been garbage. Garbage. While yes. And the Stasi is making the cut down the back move right? To devayne Today in the trip. Now my peeling game is okay. Because it's basically just a brute force technique. I don't think there's any sort of like, there's no sort of like Gods way to take the shell off of the shrimp. Although if you take the mean the old trick of taking a paring knife, holding it upside down and zip unzipping the shrimp from the back also scores the back so you can get to the vein fairly easily and rip the shell off. But then you have that line down the back of the shrimp, which I don't really think looks that good. I think it's fine. Yeah, see because you but you really can't see if you're gonna go to if you're gonna spend like eight boat tons of money on like a giant trip that you want it to look nice and you want to have a raggedy back. You don't think when butterflies out? Not particularly. I mean, like, I guess I can live with it. It looks like it's on purpose. Anyway, so this guy, he's like, he's what you and I can't believe I didn't know this. No one ever taught me this. Hey, crap on all my teachers. And every cook I've ever looked at for not doing this. The guy just takes a skewer, right? He bends the shrimp. Close to the tail, bends the trip. Sub shoves obscure, like basically, if the shrimp had a backbone, like right underneath its backbone, right? And then just lift the skewer up and the van comes right out with the skewer. Boom. And it still cut through. No, no, just one tiny skewer mark at one location in the shrimp. And you're basically like, it's like, how to explain this. It's like, imagine if you were to bend me over and shove a secure family. Right but shove a skewer onto my spine as as Earl would say, which is what he said whose spine you say is gonna rip out What movie was that? I don't know. Probably like Total Recall. Or no Running Man. I haven't you said that about Trump. So you shove the you shove the Oh my god. So DAX accidentally said these words. Donald Schwarzenegger. So now I have that mash up in my head now anyway. So you shove the skewer under my spine. And then you lift it out so my body stays there. But imagine the spine just like blue

comes out spine comes out on this on this year on security.

And all you have is that tiny hole in my

spine is coming why does it latch onto the skewer? Because what else is going

to do it's stronger than the tissue. And so it just comes out because when you do the cut down the back method on the ship, like invariably you cut the vein. So you get part of the vein out but then you even if the vein a lot of shrimp come clean now so there's not a lot in the vein. But the vein is there anyway, it's kind of unpleasant.

I got shrimp at a place in Brooklyn like a like a barbecue place on the water and it had all the veins in it. Oh soup sheets and I went back and I was like the can you get it you know this kind of gross the guy was like yeah, we're not that kind of place that takes them out and I was like,

but are you that kind of place it charges me money. Here's the thing like they should just invest the extra money then in the pre cleaned IQ you know individually IQs stuff. Anyway, so should we should we take a break and come back with some more cooking? Yeah, let's do that. All right

this episode is brought to you by Joule, the immersion circulator for Su V by ChefSteps. If you're listening to this show, you're probably a pretty good cook. Maybe you already know that su vida is the best way to get a kick ass juicy steak and with jewel a new Suvi tool from ChefSteps you can do so much more smoky tend to ribs, homemade yogurt, creme brulee, bright, crunchy pickles, vibrant purees even smooth, creamy ice cream all perfectly cooked every time. Joule is sleek and small enough to fit in your kitchen drawer. And it's operated by an elegant smartphone app that's been this designed to remove the guesswork gets you cooking faster and give you the information and inspiration you want when you want it. Browse ChefSteps amazing recipes and helpful guides. Choose your perfect doneness for any meet and get notified when your food is ready. You know you'll get great results so you can focus on sides and sauces or just pour yourself a cocktail and chill until you're ready for a delicious dinner for more information and to order yours now visit chefsteps.com/joul II All right, and we are back so time to do a little more business right right Dave? You got to do some business monitors pantry business we're doing more grease those bombs Yeah, well first of all, we like to monitor his pantry people. Yeah. But I'm going to read this one in normal voice I'm not going to do because I haven't actually read it in advance. So I don't know if I can maintain full sunday sunday sunday monster truck voice for the entire thing. I mean, I you know, I can do it. But like I have I mean like Don't challenge me people but I know I can. But I just don't know whether whether it merits like that style of voice or whether it wants a more mellow voice because I have no idea what I'm about to read. Yeah, not that I not that I don't support entirely what I'm about to read, just have no idea what it is. Okay. Modernist patriots created by food lovers and cooking issues fans just like you Janie Chris and the modernist pantry family, share your passion for experimentation and have everything you need to make culinary magic happen in your own kitchen. professional chef home cooked food enthusiast. No matter your skill or experience modernist pantry has something for you. They make it easy to get the ingredients and tools you need and can't find anywhere else so that you can spend less time hunting and gathering and more time creating memorable dishes and culinary experiences. Visit modernist pantry.com today to discover why cooking issues listeners called monitors pantry that cooks secret weapon Be sure to check out their new kitchen alchemy blog at blog dot modernist pantry.com for free recipes, tips and tricks and don't forget to follow modernist pantry on social media to keep up with what is new and exciting in the world of culinary ingredients and tools. Hey Dave, people you've ever heard the whole damn thing? No Phillips that was amazing. I can do that for a living and come on people I heard this sunday sunday sunday creep in there just a little bit I can't help it. It's like you know when you grow up and you hear that commercial over and over again it's a part of you it's part of me Do you know that I was never taken as a child is not gonna gonna get my poor little you know, I was never taken to a monster truck rally as a child I had to wait till I went to college to go to a monster truck rally Oh no.

I want to mention that modernist pantry now carries our screens for internationals specially Canadians and our

callers is that actors is that your new impolite term for people internationals you International and our series all adapters for when you over tighten and the cocktail cube now Yeah, yeah. So there you go almost a full service dealer. Yeah, by the way spins all people we're still waiting to get back in touch with China still not back online people. Our factories in China are not back online until next week, at which point we will reconvene with them take

their vacation very seriously.

At which point we will get back together with those guys and figure out exactly what the current estimates are on ship dates and we'll get back to you guys but looking looking pretty good right? Not looking bad. Now which is the new looking good.

It's the German Yeah,

not looking bad. Looks not bad. Okay, dear Dave Anastasia Oh, this is old school. Oh, still wish the jack and day so still wishing Jack love wishing you Dave love but also wishing Jackie molecules love and he said you I miss Jackie molecules. You know what they've he said he was going to come visit us. You know what he hasn't done? He hasn't come visit.

He's a fistful of lies. Like Peter Kim.

He's chilling in Washington DC. Peter Kim in liar Peter Kim known liar Peter Kim. The guy who runs museum known defects known liar. Events it alternative first of all,

crazy

no liar. What how was the last time you told the truth? by anything? I love the man. I'm just kidding. He's not. He's not you guys don't know the lies he tells. So he's not a known liar. Anyway, I'm a huge fan of the show and regularly apply things discussed here in my cooking many. Thanks, Dave. I also want to give a shout out to liquid intelligence. Looking forward to your next book. I'm not looking forward to this writing process. We were

at a ramen shop. And you were in in with all these ramen masters. And Peter said I make ramen home sometimes. And you said you're a known liar. He's like me,

because he doesn't make ramen at home. Unless by ramen like You

know who made a cup of noodles or whatever

the man oh come on please love pizza oh me here's a good cook

yes yeah

Okay, my question is about chicken and other meats in the most people find them disgusting if undercooked categories such as pork. My wife is of Haitian descent and has a strong food tradition around proper preparation of these meats. A key element of the preparation is an extensive process of washing the meat before cooking to remove an unpleasant in quotes make you gag flavor. The washing process consists of the following steps thoroughly wash all exposed surfaces of the meat under the faucet. Optionally pour a kettle of boiling water over the chicken three scrub the surface extensively with lime or vinegar and rinse under the faucet repeat this step for a minimum of three acid wash rich cycles now I have the jeans in my head and I should wash jeans. They're not coming back, please somebody's not gonna do it them on people here. Really? Yeah. I don't like acid wash sheets. So Mike, the color of my jeans today is it's just faded. It's not acid wash, whatever. Do you believe in putting lemon juice in your hair? Though people in California put lemon juice and I tried when I was little Yeah. Did work. Okay, three, wash rinse cycles. marinate the meat in an acidic marinade. What about idiots who say marinara? Weirdos,

poor guy hanging up his cape tilter. Alright.

Before I get to the question, I'm sorry, listen. So yesterday, I'm looking at brioche recipes because I'm about to go into brioche kickin home. It's not for the show or anything. I'm going on a brioche Kay, you don't like

brioche, Anastasia it's fine. Why are you doing this?

I can't talk about it. Listen, I can't talk about it. But listen, so like so DAX looks at this screen and goes brioche Qi. And I was like yeah, Dax freakin brioche. He is good. It's classic. Right? Good. breaffy Wait, why can't you talk about it? Because it's a friggin Secret. Secret.

Are you coming up with a new technique?

Maybe Maybe I'm coming up with a new technique or you're shamed? I'm not I'm not ashamed. If it works, I'm so jacked about it. That I want to wait

until the tell everyone and then someone else will take I want to wait. I want

to wait until the new bar opens. And then you will see Brie Archie sounds like like like like that's something that Carlos Yeah, got a breaffy Right.

I think I went to school with that guy.

Yeah Carlo brioche mariachi. So repeat this step for a minimum of three acid watch. Remember, we're talking about Haitian meat washing people, chicken and I guess also pork. marinate the meat in an acidic marinade for for at least overnight Parsley is also a key element of the marinade to remove the unpleasant flavor. Other ingredients typically include green pepper, onion, garlic, thyme, bouillon cube Magi and maybe a scotch bonnet pepper. Let's get a ride over the top of every freaking thing you rubber scotch bonnet pepper into that and it's good night. I mean, I like scotch bonnet, but that stuff is some strong you know, the ever white board of those things into your eye by mistake? Really? I would think you would. You're the kind of person but you don't like working with it that much. So you don't work with a metal I don't work. Do you work with chili peppers a lot at all? No, no. All right. However, from what I can tell it is the line parsley that is supposed to be removing the off flavor. While the other ingredients are primarily for flavor addition, the whole washing process takes roughly 15 to 20 minutes to complete properly before the marinade step. My problem is I do not have any idea what's going on here. In jest I call the off flavor gamma rays because it's a total mystery to me. I can't identify it or tell if it is present. I don't know if the wash is effective in removing it. And if so, I don't know when I've washed efficiently to remove the last of the gamma rays. I have frequently followed the wash steps and been told that the off flavor is still there. And I initially thought that it was just a placebo effect. And she was being skeptical that I actually watched you chicken because I can be admittedly stubborn, especially in the kitchen. Can't we all be my friend. However, even when she prepares to chicken herself sometimes she tastes it and determines that the flavors still present. Now for some additional confusion. We frequently eat chicken at restaurants Chinese Thai Italian Spanish, Mexican excetera and she will enjoy the chicken into techno or flavor with the assumption that they too are washing the chicken. They are not. They are definitely not they are definitely not washing the chicken. They may marinate the chicken. But I've never seen anyone in a restaurant go through this rigmarole with the multiple steps and the boiling and all this other stuff. Have you never never briny marinating? Yes. This incredibly all washing Step No. I don't believe any of these restaurants are using the washing process. But don't know for sure I pretty much can tell you for sure they are not. This leaves me in a difficult spot. The off flavor seems to be a real thing. But I don't know what I'm looking for. And it seems to be more more than a preference for a specific marriage. flavors since it crosses cuisines. Also, the wash process is really time consuming and sometimes ineffective. Not to mention that it results in all chicken tasting, Haitian styled. Well, this is delicious, Haitian styled. Well, this is delicious. I also want to be able to make other styles and the restaurants are somehow getting it right. Do they have special chicken? I'm swinging in the dark here and need some knowledge? Have you ever run into anything like this? What's the deal? Thanks, Todd. Okay, well, well, Todd, I don't know specifically what this off flavor is. But I did some research on the internet's and there's a one board I looked at were like a bunch of, you know, people, Caribbean people were like, if they would literally say things like, I saw this guy cooking his chicken. And he didn't do the proper washing step, like I was taught by my parents. And so I just wouldn't eat it. I wouldn't eat it at all. There's a very, very strong kind of sanitary bias, right. So there might be a flavor bias, right, there might actually be something flavor wise going on here. But there is definitely an extreme sanitary bias. And if you ever want to like know that those biases are real, right, then just go take a look, go try to watch a YouTube video of someone butchering fish, where they discovered tapeworms and other parasites on the inside of a fish and then go try to tuck into a fish fillet, it's hard, because you have an extreme sanitary bias about this. So like, I'm wondering whether the times that your wife has prepared the chicken and it still had the off flavor whether or not that chicken was maybe on the edge or not. Now, another thing I noticed by looking at a lot of the boards is that along with the washing that you prescribe, and by the way, the boiling water a lot of these things are things that are meant to do several things, the acid is going to neutralize some of the off aromas that develop on the surface of meats. The pH may have some sort of antimicrobial effect and it's unclear to me whether it would over such a short period of time and you're going to marinate it in an acidic environment anyway so I don't know how important it is there. But there's an extreme dislike of slime Enos and so meats like chicken even when they're not even when they're fresh right can have kind of a slime Enos to them and there seems to be a very intense dislike for that slime Enos. And also by the way, if you look at fat so a lot of the people like are very careful in getting rid of any fat on the X on the external part of chicken thighs and what's returned termed as the kind of heel and or the fatty looking end of the drumstick. So it's possible that some of the off flavor is actually chicken fat flavor, perhaps maybe on the edge or edge or rancid or over overdone or you know, over a you know, kind of gone chicken fat flavor or a dislike of that chicken fat flavor in its entirety. Because there was a huge amount of like verbiage spent on the website is about getting rid of fat. The other thing is that the acidity will definitely help wash off the kind of natural, any kind of natural slimy now the chickens like I say have a natural kind of feeling to them. But also as bacteria multiply over time, they create their own kind of mucus and slime, which is disgusting and terrible. So especially if chickens have been packaged in a bunch of goop. So a lot of chickens are I buy I tend to buy air cooled chickens, they tend to not be as goopy slimy, but if you get the normal ones that are chilled in big ice buckets and packed together, they're giving up fluid over time it's being leached out of the meat that that fluid has proteins in it. So they have a viscosity that's kind of gross and they look gross. And plus in confinement there is bacteria even not spoilage bacteria but bacteria that can grow can make kind of awful Romans things are called even in vacuum packs are called in quotes. It's a gross term confinement aroma that tends to kind of go away and so scrubbing that with with lime would probably help alleviate some of the aromas that are present you know neutral neutralize them and then be might have some bacteria static and also like just helped it like wash the thing off the boiling water over it is not going to probably overcook it because there for a short amount of time but it will kill the surface bacteria and in fact has been in many cultures including ancient Roman was a standard cook step and something like a bird to as an initial as initial cook before finished roast or whatever else. So yeah, so there might be an effect there. Now I am currently reevaluating my my knowledge and ideas of what happens to meet during marination and during salting so I can't really say what the specific effects are over short periods of time. I doubt the effects are very great over short periods of time. But I have, like I say, reassessing. I'm reassessing my views on the subject. So a lot of people don't like and I might have talked about this, a lot of people think that marination is useless because it doesn't penetrate very far into the meat. But, in fact, a lot of the aromas that are there in cooking, which are very important to whether you enjoy the meat are really only present at the surface and the composition of a marinade, specifically, its pH level, but also other precursors that are in the marinade can very much affect the volatiles that you get when you're cooking them at higher temperatures. So marinade even if they are only at the surface can do a lot of can change a lot. And I'm currently trying to reassess my own view on this is what I said is kind of, you know, maybe a month or two ago, that I think the only way to really get better is to kind of reassess all of your core ideas from the beginning. Another thing that I'm reassessing is, is trying to figure out how actually tenders ation works. So you know, because when you think about when you think about meat, it's always, you know, said, Oh, collagen, it's collagen that causes me to be tough, and it's rendering collagen during long cooking into gelatin that causes it to be, you know, tender again, but I've just recently started to investigate kind of all of the effects of what what tenderizing really means, turns out what time is it Dave anyway, so I can't get into it now. But you know, maybe if someone asked me about it, we can get into, you know, intramuscular connective tissue, and specifically the paramecium, which is a misnomer called paramecium. And it just went on my head, they the

muscle fibers are grouped into bundles, and it's the collagen that surrounds those bundles that tend to buy most of the research and that's what determines the texture of the meat. And so then the question is, is that can that part be specifically change the eating properties of a beat change via marinade via salt treatment? And and and I'll leave you with this on the way out so is the fact that I have very specific ideas about when to salt meat and when not to salt me based on the texture of it. Is it radically dependent on the amount of connective tissue and the type of connective tissue present in the meat beforehand? Answer maybe if you want to know more, ask me questions cooking issues.

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