Cooking Issues Transcript

Episode 139: Eat Your Yolks


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Hello, and welcome to cooking issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host with cookies coming to you live Roberta's pizzeria in the back of Brooklyn. Yeah. Brooklyn. Brooklyn. joined as usual with Natasha hammer Lopez. Got a full crew today we got Pedro here as new filming the program today. We is Jack still over there as he call it out. Oh, I'm here. Hi, Jack. Joe. So Eddie in the back of full, full crew, right, full crew full crew calling the questions to Cemani 4972128. That's 718-497-2128 cooking questions, non cooking questions. Whatever makes sense. You have a lot of questions. Yeah, I do. But before I do that, we have a theory in from at leapers 500. On Twitter, theory about mustaches hate of everything. Wow. Yeah. Right. And by the way, I just have to warn you leapers I can't believe he's the 500th Leeper that possible anyway, I just have to warn you that you are about to start some sort of evil feud witness Dasha, not necessarily something you want to do, but the theory is, she hates everything. Because secretly she wants the wonder of her universal hatred to keep people asking her what she likes. I think he's given away too much thought. That's weird. Wow. Wow. All right.

So the Sasha hated that.

All right. Very good. Very good. All right. I'm on last week's questions first.

Well, you got a special greeting too. We should probably do that.

Oh, that's right. That's right. How about we won't you want let's do that. Right. If we come in, you won't do it at the top. All right. We don't know. We don't know what. Which one. No, right. No, we don't. All right. A very special Happy Birthday to John riper out in Seattle. Happy Birthday brother. Thanks for listening to the show and contributing so many interesting questions. Right?

Yeah, we got a chance to meet him and his wife when they came up here in Senegal, but they were lovely and brought us all some nice little gifts.

Gifts are good.

I'd say there are our favorite listeners. Yeah, really? For me speak for myself. Yeah,

you know, it's like I tried to play fair With our loyal loyal listeners, okay, we have some questions from last week I'm going to hit Jacob wrote in about burr grinders. Hey, hope you're still demand for this on to the rest of the crew. I don't know if you've mailed it to was that Jack? Maybe I'm looking for a good burr grinder at home, but we're talking about coffee people. I make mostly pour over port over is a horrible thing to think like, I guess drips also a bad word but pour over sounds like come over doesn't it? sighs like pour over coffee comb over coffee. Anyway. But I make mainly pour over an espresso. I was looking at the Breville BC g 800x. l smart grinder. What is your take? I'm hoping to find something that makes effing good coffee. It's all bleeped out because he says, I know you're a family trying to make this a family show from Jacob. Okay. Okay, so just so you guys know, my take on this. So everyone, not everyone, a lot of people, they spend a lot of money on their espresso machine, right? I mean, it's just something people do. They spend a lot of money on their special machine. And they always, then don't, we're not always often don't spend enough money on the grinder. And it turns out that the grinder in terms of the quality of your coffee is almost an equal partner to your espresso machine. So if you don't get an espresso machine, I mean a grinder rather, that's up to snuff for your espresso machine than a what's the point, you know what I'm saying? Now, back when I bought my grinder, which was many, many, many, many, many moons ago, I got the rancilio Rocky, which at the time was the best option for semi-serious home folks. Cost $350. And my wife made something akin to mustaches vegan face when she found out that I had purchased it, because seemed like a lot at the time. That does a good job. It's a flat grinder, right? It's okay. And now 12 years later, I think 12 Maybe a couple more years later that I've had it, you know, it needs new set of burrs now, probably, or need sharpening. But as a couple years after I got mine, everyone said you know what the one to get is the maaser mini right now the maaser Mini is functionally in a professional espresso grinder, you could find it, you know, small for professional setup, but it functions in the same fashion as a full size professional espresso grinder is 575 bucks. All right now, it's really freaking expensive. It's 575 bucks. But the great thing about the maaser mini for espresso is that it's got a very fine grind adjustment. It's got nice conical burrs that are fairly large aren't going to warm up your coffee, fairly repeatable. And that is kind of the standard by which all home possible grinders for espresso aerated. Now I'm not such a big, I don't really think too much about grind quality for pourover. But in essence, the problem you're going to have is that you're going to be doing a lot of adjusting between pourover and not pourover. I mean, I leave mine tuned close to what I want for espresso, and my Rocky and I never touch it. And then well it's not true. Like whenever I'm doing a shot, I'll adjust it up or down based on how the shots are pouring today, which is I believe a lot not just to do with the beans but also the relative humidity anyway, but you know, it kind of wants to stay close to being dialed in. I don't like to move it around a lot. Now, you might want to consider getting an inexpensive grinder for your pourover and a really expensive one. Or if you can afford it a more expensive one for your for your espresso. I've also heard good things about the loss and Marco lower end professional one I had one that was out of whack that I picked up use I never got to work right so I don't want to I want to talk about it because I don't really want to talk about it. Now as the one you're asking me about the Breville BCG 800 XL smart grinder. I've never used it ever. I went and looked at it. It's a lot cheaper than the rocky which is the one that I have or it's 150 bucks cheaper. 299 bucks apparently, I looked at a coffee geek which although they haven't had a lot of recent postings as far as I can tell was the website that I used to go to all the time when I was in the coffee purchasing and coffee thinking mode more of a coffee thinking and purchasing mode. And their gripe about it is that it's well they say it's a good grinder but they say that the of the adjustment on it for the grind adjustment is not fine enough to really perfectly dial in an espresso shot. That's the gripe and I heard that gripe from a couple of people who seemed relatively knowledgeable about what was going on. Not that it's a bad quality grinder, but just that the grind adjustment wasn't fine enough and I don't know if that's something that can be hacked or tweaked. But it so in other words consistent which is important but not adjustable enough. So that's, that's, that's what is that. What do you think? Good job enough. Yeah, okay. I can never tell whether I can whether I've said enough or too little or too much. Okay. David writes in about the muffin style. I like that. That should be a new dance. You gotta make that dance up says muffin style. No No ragamuffin you're not going to do some sort of muffin dance. No. Hey, Cookie issues in the muffin method sugar is treated as a wet ingredient. I understand that this is possible because the sugar dissolves are readily in water color. You

want to grab that before the muffin question.

I want you people to think about muffins and I'm going to take this caller caller you're on the air.

Hi. My name is Fatima. I was just I recently started eating only egg whites because I heard it was healthier. Is that true?

I don't believe so. Who told you that?

I've read it. Well, that there is more cholesterol and fat in the yolk. That's true. More protein in the white.

That's true. But do you have high cholesterol?

I don't think so. No. But I don't want to have high cholesterol either.

Yeah, well, you know, so you make you make your own cholesterol. Here's an egg yolks are one of nature's miracles, they're amazing. Like they taste delicious. I think you have to agree that when you eat only the egg white, that it does not taste anywhere near as delicious as when the egg yolk is in it. And I also don't think that the products that you make with it are going to be a satisfying meeting, you're probably going to have to eat more of it. Now, I can see, you know, if you have if you need for some reason, just a whole boatload of protein for some reason that I can understand, then, yeah, I guess you could go with egg whites. But the fact of the matter is, there's not that many calories in a whole egg. So it depends on how I mean, and there is there is quite a bit of, you know, fats, cholesterol phospholipids, things like that. But you know, a lot of that I think is good stuff man supposed to be nourishing, it grows a chicken, you know. So I think that you're much better off if you're really worried about the caloric intake just eating slightly less, and enjoying the taste of real, whole eggs in an omelet or scrambled format or anything like that. I mean, there's plenty of places where I use egg whites, like when I'm making fruit cakes, which I think are delicious, although styles disagrees, that was my painful cake. But you see, but what do you disagree with me or No,

I think yellows are really good. But the protein in egg is like super natural protein or something. And like the protein that you get in meat or fish or whatever else isn't as good, the quality of the protein isn't as good as the protein in the egg.

I have to I have it's been a long time since I've looked up theoretical completeness of proteins across the board. But I mean, egg egg is, you know, Nature's Miracle kind of food, you could grow a whole chicken from it. I'm not a firm believer in I mean, like I say there are proteins that are deficient. So for instance, you know, if you eat only, you know, certain grains, the proteins in them can be deficient and it'd be made up in other ways because they don't contain the right balance of amino acids. But I don't know that the quality of protein from an egg is going to be fundamentally different in terms of what your body does with it from one in meat it is a you know, a very high source of protein. But like I said, most of us have most of us get what much more protein than we need in this country. Right. So you have you have no need for an extremely concentrated protein source unless you're a bodybuilder which matter. No, maybe you're a bodybuilder. But, you know, the my my firm belief is that you should eat the foods in the way that make them taste good, that that's going to make you sated faster, you're not going to necessarily eat as much or be driven to eat as much if you just focus on trying to make products that you know that tastes good. And egg is a nutritional Marvel, you know, yolk or or not. I mean, think about from a cooking standpoint, the yolks are a miracle because they have all sorts of emulsification properties aside from the fact that they're delicious. So I would I would say that unless that unless you have a specific need to get rid of the egg yolks that you should keep on using them because they're delicious.

But what am I losing by not eating the yolk?

In terms of taste

and terms of nutritional values?

I'd have to look it up I mean there's I have to look up what's what's in it like what I'm sure that there's some sort of like awesome list of you know, vitamins and minerals and whatnot that are in the yolk. I don't I don't normally keep that stuff like rolling in the front of my head because I'm much more concerned with the yolk as a functional unit and cooking Do you know what I mean? Yeah, but in order to my my feeling is that you know the chicken doesn't grow from the white alone. The chicken grows from the egg yolk and egg. Well I mean the egg white It is also a miracle because it's got like interesting antibacterial properties. It's one of the only, it's one of the only things that we eat that comes naturally Alkalyn you know, basic in nature as opposed to acidic. So it's got me it's got some really interesting properties. But, you know, I would never, you know, I would never break them. I would never eat an egg white only omelet, for instance. Never.

Understood, thank you very much. I appreciate it.

Thank you. Alright, so what we're talking about, we're talking about muffins, muffins, muffins. In the muffin method, sugar is treated as a wet ingredient. I understand that this is possible because the sugar dissolves readily in water. But what's the actual benefit of doing that? Would there be any difference in the final product if I treated my sugar as a dry ingredient instead of a wet ingredient? Thanks from David, that's interesting. I mean, I don't I don't know. I mean, it's one of the reasons, as you say, to put it in there is that it dissolves readily, whereas all the things that are in the dry ingredient list aren't really soluble in the liquid. But I don't really know if there would be any difference in the final product. If you do one way or the other, I doubt that you would hinder the hydration of of your product too much. Perhaps, if you used perhaps the sugar wouldn't dissolve as readily if there was other things competing and swelling with water. And so you actually want the sugar dissolve more. But I think it might be six of one half a dozen or the other, you know, I've never, I've never really thought about it. I would try it, I would make two batches of muffins, and see whether they come out any differently. I mean, that, that that method doesn't use any for instance, whipping power of granulated sugar. It's not like creaming or any of these other things where you're using the power of the sugar as an actual editing agent, so I don't really think would make that much of a difference. But I could be wrong. Maybe the sugar won't dissolve if you do it that way because it doesn't have enough setting time for dissolve out. And your flour won't hydrate the same way and the whole thing will be a big mass of crud with little sugar specks in it. Maybe. I don't know what do you think's does you ever ever messed with the way you don't make muffins? Do your muffin hater? You like muffins? I just don't bake. Don't have time to bake. Don't have time to bake your whole life. You've never had time to bake. I used to Alright, so five years ago. Hey, it's my anniversary with you. Really? Yeah. Well, that was a little secret. You don't care? I didn't say that. You did. You said I saw. Yes. I was four years. Oh, four years. All right. So just so you know. She says that working with a cooking guy has stopped her from having the time to bake a while. Right? Is that what you're fundamentally saying? Who is the one at work who will never step into the kitchen and actually do cooking work with us? Whenever I cook anything for Lindsay? Like, what is that? She's talking about the last year where she brings in leftovers and like heats it up. I'm talking about like all the years of the French culinary where we're like, oh my god, we have all this stuff to do in the kitchen. She's like, nope, nope. And now she's saying that she doesn't have time to cook now that she was home. I see. I see. All right. Dandy calls in from St. Louis regarding Applebee's. Or as he puts it, crap, Applebee's.

Oh, that's what I used to call it. Yeah,

I think a lot of people use it. I mean, it's kind of a sad. It's kind of like I won't get into it. But like can you believe that they named a chain restaurant Fuddruckers. I mean, it's kind of it's a strange but anyway. Dave hammer at all. I've been asked to recreate an appetizer sampler platter. So that's a tongue twister appetizer sampler platter based on the menu at Applebee's. The party hosts always think the food sounds good. But when it stinks as it always does, they say they've been crapple bead. I listen. This is not my opinions. By the way. This is Vandy from St. Louis Missouri talking here not not not my opinion. I have not ever been to an Applebee's ever. Never. Wow. Yeah. After looking at the menu, and they have proposed that they give a link to it. You can just go to Applebee's dot com if you're interested in looking at their appetizer menu, I decided to make one time tacos with Adobo style chicken. Presumably not like Filipino wherever. Fried fish, fried fresh mozzarella, and pretzels with beer cheese dip. That would be good pretzels with beer cheese dip. I mean, I don't really do you like soft pretzels does. Yeah, I like soft pretzels. I do. Although I'm more of a hard pretzel aficionado but I do like a good soft pretzel. I bought some sodium citrate from modernist pantry.com and use this recipe http www chow.com recipes blah blah blah perfectly melting cheese. It's on Channel. Setting aside the combination of cups grams and ounces in the recipe. It was far too thick for a portable cheese sauce. Should I just decrease the amount of cheese slash increase the liquid or the amount of sodium citrate? Also any suggestions for frying fast, fresh mozzarella, my thought was to Do a standard double dip kind of fry and test the mozzarella at room temperature straight out of the fridge. But I wonder if I'm overlooking something, love the show and I hate wraps as well dandy? Well, much as I don't know if I can cosign on the on the recreation of the Applebee's menu, the what I would say on the sodium citrate on the cheese thing is you have to assess the sodium citrate is going to increase the melt ability and the flow ability and then and the granularity of it. So it's a melting salt that's going to allow the the casing to become smooth. So if your product is smooth, right, but just too thick, then I would add a liquid if it's smooth as silk, but just to but but we're sorry, if it's smooth as silk but too thick add liquid if it's clumpy or has some problem with texture, other than actual viscosity, then you're having a problem with your emulsifying so that makes sense says yep, now on the mozzerella whenever I make mozzerella I do flour coat first in case to pick up any extra moisture double dip and then I fry it extremely cold so that I get a crust forming before the cheese starts melting out. I have never tried any sort of much higher tech thing like dusting in a metal cell or anything like that. But you know you lose what like one in 10 mozzarella sticks one in 15 mozzarella sticks when you fry them out another interesting thing you can fry is they make a if you want to go a little off menu there is in South America but well in in what is the Middle East I guess they make something called salumi which is a grilled double cheese Hello me good cheese is I think it says on the package. And in. In Latin America they make something called case about a free air that you can fry and not stuff. You can literally deep fry that sucker without a coating on it. It doesn't melt out and it's delicious. Except when it cools down it gets squeaky like you're chewing on styrofoam, so you got to eat that sucker hot out of the fryer or hot off the grill. But I highly recommend trying Casio Casio part of free air or halloumi it's really good with a little oil drizzle over the top salt pepper grilled or fried but back on your mozzerella just coat that sucker like a demon. Have it be cold fry it till it's crisp and then if you need to, you know you can throw it in an oven to melt out the inside a little more of the problem with most frying setups is that they batter the mozzarella around you want to be really gentle with it and not do a lot of manipulation because if you break the crust at any point you're gonna get a leaker and then you're toasted. I hate making mozzarella sticks. Do you like mozzarella sticks? marinara sauce? Do you like fried calamari? Was the way that ad pronounce calamari that? You don't want to anyway? Yeah, that's a Connor Kerrigan writes in cooking issues. Have you ever made stock from freeze dried protein Allah David Chang's mind of a chef, can I easily find freeze dried products? Yes, you can find freeze dried products but no, I have never made stock from freeze dried stuff. I looked a little bit into it. I haven't spoken to Dave about this personally. I mean, I would I don't know the advantage of freeze dried stock product except for the relative speed of extraction. In other words, I don't know what would go on in the freeze drying of it that would actually increase the ultimate total flavor extraction you could get from it. So I need to talk to him and see see what he has but No, I've never tried that was an easy one to answer right? answer's no. But okay. Where should we take what times that you might take a break? Let's go to our first commercial break cooking.

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And welcome back to Cooking issues. We have a caller caller, you're on the air.

Hey, Dave, how you doing? All right, Zach, Christian from Michigan. Got a question for two well, actually two questions seemingly unrelated. Have you ever used the AeroPress as a means of being clarifier? So how you use the cheesecloth? Could you use an Aeropress? To do the clarification?

Okay, so what we're talking about AeroPress is the relatively inexpensive coffeemaker that uses a moderate amount of pressure, it looks like a giant modified syringe. Accurate so far. And so when you're saying when you're saying clarification, I generally don't do. I don't clarify via filtration, I use cheesecloth for only for holding back solids in something, let's say like an egg, or raft, or in a gelatin raft. And most of that when you're doing it, you're not, it's not the pressure that's holding you back, it's the ultimate kind of leak rate you can get out of the raft. And when you increase the pressure too much, you actually can start forcing product through your filter medium, what I actually use in those situations to increase the pressure, just the right amount without causing problems to squeeze through clogging, is I use a salad spinner. So I'll put stuff in like a in like a super bag or in like, like a fine, like, like a linen napkin. And I'll tie the neck off like a sack, throw it in a salad spinner and just spin it a bunch. And that and that was pretty awesome. And then I'll free up the the mesh by picking it up and just rubbing gently the cloth together against itself to free the pours out and then spinning it again. And you very rarely get any Agata bleed through when you do that.

Oh, okay, that's a much easier idea. I don't drink coffee. So I don't have an Aeropress.

Well save your save yourself the purchase, although they do work well. I used to bring all sorts of complicated stuff. But now when I travel, I usually bring the AeroPress with me just because it's easy to carry.

Cool. So the second question is, have you ever done a DIY project for making a like a deep freeze unit?

Like how deep freeze

like so taking like a commercial blower unit and making your own kind of I'm just looking to do like a rapid freeze unit without spending like four grand on a on a true commercial freezer unit to get meat down and temperature. Quickly.

I hear my thoughts on that. So you're talking about prepared meats or pre or pre pre cooking or post cooking

pre cooking in bags, so yep. Okay,

I would definitely do this answer to answer your question first. I have not I've often thought about installing just like fan units inside my normal freezer to try and increase the rate of freezing a little bit because the air is stagnant in there and the freeze rates are abysmal. The problem is as opposed to a commercial blast freezer mean you wouldn't want a fan going in there all the time because it's going to accelerate the drying effects that you're gonna have in there right. But commercial blast freezer not only has like a large amount of air circulation large amount, but it also has a huge cooling you know a huge cooling output to match it. So you know your freezer is not is not freezing at its fastest possible rate because it doesn't have air circulation or very much air circulation. But there is a still a maximum rate at which your freezer can freeze because of the actual amount of cooling power that's being applied to the freezing box. And so that's the part that's kind of hard to get around is the fact that it's only ever going to put a certain number of watts of cooling per hour into your product. You know what I'm saying? or pulling out of it. What I would do is put your product in zip ease ice and salt is very fast and can freeze down to you know minus I forget what it is off top my head but something like minus 17 or something like that. You know it can freeze ice cream rock solid and so you can do a very rapid freezing in a concentrated saltwater brine and then and you could possibly even store that Brian in your freezer. Like if you had a freezer you're going to dedicate to this you could possibly store a saturated salt brine in the in the freezer to in the freezer so just wants to stay where it is. And then you're storing a boatload of energy in the partially crystallized ice and then the saltwater brine and that sucker would freeze your stuff very, very quickly.

Yeah, so then that so then that saltwater brine would bring down the ambient temperature in the free These are compartment as well then to

Well, so what you would do is is you would use the you would, you would use the freezer over time to slowly add the energy, right to make your to make your brine and then it would not fully freeze until it got, well, you'd have to do some calculations on eutectic freezing point to get it to work just right. But what you really want to do is store a bunch of ice at a temperature below freezing, have the freezer slowly input that energy over time, such that when you throw your meat in bags into the brine, it can very rapidly cool it right and then you have the rest of the time to keep storing that energy again. You know what I'm saying? That makes sense. Yeah, that's

pretty cool. Sweet. Well, thanks for your help, as usual. All right.

Well, good luck and let us know what happens. Sounds good. Have a good one. All right. Colin writes in about popsicles in Britain. He says the Brits haven't heard from Colin in a while. The Brits invented a curious concoction called the jelly babies wobbly Lolly and other tongue twister. jelly jelly babies wobbly Lolly by the way. He adds. It's a popsicle or ice lolly. They call them ice lollies I guess in UK that's an absurd word. ice lolly? Would you ever say ice lolly Pedro. I slowly reference music video or something? Music? Oh yeah. Well, there you go. It's an ice lolly that gets floppy when it melts, thanks to guar and Xanthan, although I have to say in advance reading the rest of this I don't think it's what we'll talk about it. You can look at it on this YouTube thing which is going to be incomprehensible to you but it will get it out there on the on the web somehow. You can imagine that there are many more and what if you look at it it's a little kid with a like what amounts to some sort of magical thing that wobbles around like like a what are those things call that you make out of jello that knocks blocks that call them jigglers? Right? So it's kind of like a mix between a fudge fudge circle and a juggler and he's sitting there wobbling back and forth. But Colin of course points out what is probably obvious to you that you can imagine there are many more semi obscene videos featuring young women eating these pups. I will leave it at that here are the ingredients for lime flavor in honor of the limeys that created them. Water sugar, fruit juice concentrate, 25%, straw, Strawberry and Lime stabilizers, xanthan gum, guar gum, hydrolyzed, pea protein and salt natural flavoring acidity regulator citric acid and color spinach extract. Spinach extract chloro St. Chlorophyll stars put the vegan face on for that one. Does the hydrolyzed protein play a role in the wobble? I've seen it used as a protein supplement or to boost flavor via glutamic acid but does it have a texture modifying properties as well? If you were to take a stab at a recipe to recreate these popsicles what gum concentrations would you start with? Finally? Have you made any other curiously textured frozen treats besides your world famous potato mock slept on Derma made a wobble view with you Colin first of all, yeah, the other one I've done also a sell up rip off is a mixture of guar and gel and lo Aysel gel in that that sucker also has a snap to it I really like and that one you can light on fire which is awesome. And it doesn't melt because you make a fluid gel from the gel and and so it doesn't melt down and that tons of shares have made Joanne fluid gel ice creams. It's like you know, man, man, I'm gonna make a fluid gel ice cream man mess like let it on fire man. But when you have the guar that's when you get the weird textural properties guar and gelatin, which I still have only studied in Frozen form, I don't really know why it works. We did it by accident, it happens anyway. What's going on here is it's not actually the Xanthan guar that's causing that Xanthan LBG, which is a close relative of guar will form a weird gel. But as far as I know, Xanthan guar does not have that same synergism what you're looking at here is actually I believe a synergism between guar gum and the hydrolyzed pea protein hydrolyzed pea protein as a P is a protein that's used because it has relatively neutral flavor. It's relatively inexpensive and can be subbed in for things that might otherwise have a kind of a nasty flavor or people might not want for like soy protein or other protein isolates, or like milk protein or dairy protein isolates. So turns out I looked up on the interwebs and there is a someone named Tamara Ronald Hira had in year 2000. Her master's thesis in Manitoba was enhanced chelation of field pea proteins through formation of multicomponent systems using various polysaccharides. And guess which one had the most wobbly, it's p protein and ding ding, ding guar. So it's the guar and the pea protein together that are doing what we need to do in this situation. I don't the Xanthan is probably just there. I guess to add some more body. I don't know whether it's there from a stabilizing standpoint because I couldn't find really fast what the freeze thaw characteristics were of this But, and also the one thing I don't know is how how melt in your mouth these systems are. But what you're looking at there is a pea protein guar thing, which I believe has to be heated for it to work before it's frozen, but I don't know because I couldn't find out. But these protein these pops, I'm surprised they weren't advertised as protein pops because most of the p protein things that I've looked at were in the high range like 10% or a little more protein. So anyway, if anyone else has any information on these p protein popsicles, p protein particles and we have an alliteration all day today, you know same give us a holler. Okay. Patrick Ciccone writes in on hey, you're Italian Prasad Ciccone. Right. Okay. Hey look, I got something right. On muscles in mollusks, dear cooking issues gang thanks for your answer about preserving bluefish. Last week, I'll report back the results. It got me to rereading the fish chapter in Herald Nikki always a good idea, by the way to reread any chapter and one of Harold McGee's books. I'm gonna see him soon we're doing the Harvard lecture together. And a little bit of secret. It's not a secret. You know, I think all of you know who've been following the MO fat and the puffing gun that we like the puffing gun. Well, we at Booker and DAX Equipment Corporation have purchased our own many puffing guns so that we can do we can now do commercial puffing experiments although the Chinese one complete as you know, it's whatever it just comes completely unsafe. There are no when I say unsafe there are no safeties in it. So like our puffing gun even though it was designed in the museum's puffing on even though it was designed in the 40s 39 actually and made you know, in the 50s still has like all kinds of safety valves on it so that you don't die. This sucker comes. And it comes in and starts with that box of like, terrible. It was like all beaten to hell, right? Like the stuff falling out literally stuff falling out of it, like all crazy. And they just expect you to like want this thing together and put it up to 180 psi and then hit it with a big old stick with no protections at all, and no safety. So we haven't fired it yet. Because we're busy constructing big, massive safety cages and like blow off valves and stuff like that. I don't even know why I was thinking that oh, because I'm hoping to take that the Harvard so that McGee and I can fire that for the Harvard class at the beginning of the school year and it will let you know. Okay. That was just because he said McGee see what happens. See what kind of tangents I go on. I noticed that in the shellfish section McGee says it's possible to cook the catch mussels of shellfish. I eat those knobby muscles left on the shell of a clam oyster and not typically eaten since they are so tough. This is on page 224 of the 2004 edition, in subsection tender, quick, tough catch. So I couldn't. I'll tell you what it says there. He also paraphrasing because I don't have in front of me. I could not find any references to cooking the catch muscles anywhere else besides muggy, I was wondering if cooking via prolonged low temperature method might transform them into something delicious. I know you always warn against fish turning into mush with this method method. But it's but this muscle seems unlike anything else in the fish world, at least in terms of toughness. I'm always disappointed when I throw away what looks like a tiny scallop attached to the show. And I'm now imagining this muscle transformed into something with real flavor and texture, a scallop with the flavor of a clam for example. Also, congrats to the MO fed puffer launch. I'm sorry, I missed the gun. I don't know if the museum was looking for a brick and mortar space anytime soon. But I have some ideas. So we should have Peter contact him anyway. So I reread it and in fact, it's quite interesting. So whenever you take let's say muscle or anything apart, there's always that little tough part attached to the shell, you know, we're talking about or when you shut a clan, so is that right? And so the adductor muscle, which is the main muscle in bivalves ie two vowels, ie two shells, the main muscle the adductor is broken up into a couple of different types. One is meant for quick closing, right, and that's the one that we normally eat. And scallops are really good at that because they flap their shells open and shoot themselves across the bottom of the ocean. So they have big, fast, you know, adductor muscles, and then a portion of the adductor muscle is designed to do what's called Catch. And what that is, is like when you walk up to a clam, and you're like oh, clam, and you try to open it, and it goes wrong and closes and then you can't pry that sucker open. And even though it's been sitting there for like, hours or days, you can't pry it open. That is because of the specialized muscles that are called Catch muscles. And they're extremely interesting. And they're tough. And so McGee does, in fact, say that you can through long and slow cooking tenderize it and I haven't tested this and I couldn't find a lot of reference to it over the web, but it's worth trying. But I did do some more research on that. And it turns out that there's a lot of scientific study on catch mussels in in bivalves mollusks and other arthropods because

they, they they're able to maintain their rigidity, their contraction, even though they don't use a lot of energy for a long, long time. And so it turns out that there is a giant protein so we have giant proteins in our muscles. They're called Titan tight with an eye not not ti ta en ti, ti and Titan, that is forms kind of part of the elasticity of our muscle. And it's actually the largest protein known. And there's a, there's a related protein in mollusks called called twitching, believe it or not. And that protein, the state of that protein allows the muscle to lock shut without expending any extra energy over very, very long periods of time as a unique kind of, it's from invertebrate muscles. And it was just figured out in 1997. In fact, if you go on Wikipedia, and you look up myosin it stills, it still says that, that these muscles have their cash response based on on para myosin, which is an invertebrate only myosin type with not true. It's just twitch and stuff. The article you might want to read. I don't know if I have a link to it on my page to tell you on my paper here to tell you about but go Google it. And because here's what's interesting, I can't figure out any references to how to disable that just by cooking because it's not a standard kind of college and break down point. But I got to look at it. So it's very interesting. And when I see McGee, I'm going to ask him more about it. And sorry, I didn't have a full answer, right. Sounds like I don't really care. I don't care. Alex writes in oh, by the way, I have a couple of questions on induction. So I'm going to I'm going to combine them alright, see wrote in about induction and our short and about induction I'll do I'll do CS first. Hey, David, Sasha Jack and Joe Great show after I discovered monitors cuisine at home I found your show have been blasting through the archives. Been a homebrew for about five years. And chemistry of beer got me very interested in food. I converted my brew system DIY style to all electric a couple years ago and have not looked back. I you know, I stopped brewing eight years ago last time I brewed was just before DAX was born anyway. My second son to all electrical burgers haven't looked back after learning about low temp cooking and cvwd and Modernist Cuisine. I built my first immersion circulator with spare parts I had laying around the brew house. It worked great, but I wanted something insulated with a cover that was a little larger. I built my second immersion circulator for an arch fest party at Penn State where I live Penn State Nittany Lions I knew I'd never been there. I've always wanted to go to their dairy program over there. Here's really good you ever been to Penn State? That's where my grandfather went, where I retrofitted one of those igloo Macs called 150 cord coolers with a 5500 watt water heater element and a Ranko temp controller and backpack 30 pounds of ribs each rack individually Of course, and cooked them at 143 Fahrenheit for 48 hours then finish them on a really hot Weber charcoal grill with wood chips. They were delicious and I did indeed look like a rockstar. I recently tossed out the fry daddy I bought in college Good move Friday. Good starter not a good look. I'm not doing no insulted a Friday Corporation not enough power in a fried daddy in Napoli name it should be called like, you know fry Jr. Or like fry baby fried baby should be called fried baby. It's very small. It's in no way the daddy of deep fryers originally tossed out my fried Daddy that I bought in college. I'm intrigued by your french fry process. My French fried process. It's a pain in the butt it's like involves like enzymatic treatment, then blanching then some drying depending on what the size of the fry is then freezing then twice frying anyway. I'm intrigued by your french fry process and want to also become the monk of the fry or whatever you call it. You've touched on induction cooktops, cooktops in a couple of episodes. I have a gas range for my normal cooking. I was wondering what you thought about the standalone induction cooktops available now. Alright, so wait, I'm being told I'm gonna take a call and then come back and answer this question about induction. Sure. Do you see there's color? Yeah. Caller you're on the air.

Hey, Dave, it's Brian. In San Francisco. How you doing? Oh, good. Good, good. Question. So over the weekend, I tried to make some banana pudding, the flavors were delicious. But I you know, the recipe I used called Personal cornstarch. So it ended up tasting a little bit, I guess gritty. And all the recipes I've seen for you know, vanilla pudding or butterscotch pudding or banana. A lot of them seem to call for some kind of starch mixin. So you know, I made a slurry before I mixed it in and there were no lumps, but it didn't have the kind of same smoothness that I really wanted. And one thing that I saw was that after you kind of finish and after it sets if you continue to stir it too much, then that might cause some some greediness. So I'm wondering a Should I continue using for my cuttings of starch, but like like corn starch or tapioca starch or something, or what? What's a better method?

Well, you know, I don't do a lot of I don't do a lot of puddings. But all the ones that I have done are with cornstarch. I'm gonna tell you what, I'm going to do stuff. See if you can get Piper to call in. And because he's worked on all those putting stuff, what? Papers not around, I'll tell you what, I'll research a research and putting stuff for you. And we'll get back to you next week. Can you tweet it into me so I can drop it into my inbox for next week?

Oh, I'll tweet it into meetings reminding you about the puddings. Alright, because I

don't feel that I don't feel comfortable enough to answer you on putting right off the top of my head. I'm gonna look up some data on grittiness in it but all the ones I've made. Typically I do I do the old fashioned cornstarch he wants. So I'll look into it. also tweet me the recipe that you used if you have it so we can troubleshoot that and read it to you right away paper. I put him in so much. No problem. We'll get we'll get to next week. Thanks so much. Okay, back to induction. I have a gas range for my normal cooking was wondering what you thought about the standalone induction cooktops available now? The infomercial, New Wave one can be had for $50 Have you seen this infomercial? New Wave is an oven that they make some sort of what I think I could tell from their advertising is a is a kind of a home impingement oven like, like a fast air impingement oven. But they also make something called a PAC precision induction cooktop. But you know, I'm dubious of any of the of the infomercial stuff, unless it's a Billy Mays product. God bless, Billy, may he rest in peace, right. You know, I love Billy Mays. So his voice I would buy anything. It's like, it's like, you know, it's like Billy Mays, I would buy from him. I'd buy you know, pretty much whatever Snoop Dogg tries to sell it except for those awful malt liquor beverages that he ripped. Okay. The new infomercial, New Wave one can be had for like $50, since you can supposedly control the temperature rather accurately with these things. Could it supplant a dedicated fryer for the home kitchen? Is No. Is it powerful enough to keep a decent volume of oil at 375? Or is it just another piece of TV infomercial junk? I don't know. I don't never use it. I don't know whether it's high quality. It does appear to have a bunch of nice functionality. But any attempt to you well, we'll get into this okay. Alternatively, Can you recommend a model that you think would work for this application? Forgive me if you've already answered this question. Thanks. Keep up the good work. And I'll be visiting both rubbers and Booker and DAX next time in the city. And another question on induction in from Alex. Great show. Thanks for doing it. I was looking into getting started in induction cooking, but there seems to be a fair amount of incomplete or misinformation out there on the internet. I even noticed that modernist cuisine.com recommends a max Burton model that has a picture of a Mr. Induction at the top of the page. I am confused. What kind of power size features will I want? As long as you're throwing out recommendations? Is there any branded pots and pans you particularly like on induction burners? And burners? Is that the right word cooktops? They don't know. Oh, by the way, in England, going back to the ice lolly folks. They call them hubs. But I don't know anyone in the US that calls their burner a hub. Do you? Would you like to be does that sound gross? Do you have? Yeah, yeah. Stars doesn't like hub. I would just keep calling it a burner. But if you're from the UK, you can call it an induction hub like Thomas hubs? Well, no, no one b, h OB like corn on the hub. Okay. Corn on the hub. Yeah. Throw the corn on the cob. In the pan. That's all Namaha Yeah, like that. Okay, I will save my questions about the differences between a CPAP and a combi oven for another day. Thanks, Alex. Yes, because we will run out of time before I can get to that. Although we will I mean, whatever. Okay, so look on all of your induction questions. First. Max Burton, interesting thing about the max Burton, there is a I own one, I haven't started using it yet. All of those kind of small induction things are my guess, relatively the same, meaning they all have relatively the same power output, I think they're roughly 1500 Watts 15 to 1800 Watts, but you can't use a straight wattage output. And the reason that's why they are is because in the US everything is designed to be run comfortably off of a 15 amp 120 volt wall socket. And so most companies are very loath to on a consistent basis pull more than about 1500 watts out of the wall a little more, anything more than that, and you're gonna get into a commercial unit that uses 220 volts, and then you can start putting bigger wires and you're gonna have a much thicker cord and then you can start pulling more wattage out. So if you're going to get an induction range in your house to supplant having a regular gas or electric range, that's going to have a much bigger set of wires going into it, you can get a lot more power to it. Now, you cannot equate you cannot equate the wattage directly to the wattage of an electric heater, because it is boatloads more efficient, just tons more efficient. And so it's very hard and you can't really equate it to gas because it's a lot more efficient than gas. Now, the a very, very high output. A home. Sorry, very, very high output commercial gas burner will boil faster than one of these Mr. Burton things. But the average even semi pro home gas burner will not boil water as quickly as a decent home induction unit. And that's really the method that's really what you want to test, how fast is it going to put heat into into my product. The other great thing about induction, and I've said this many times that I love is that it's not going to heat up your whole kitchen, because it's only heating the pan that said, you need to have pans that work well with the induction. And most pans you can tell whether they've worked well with with induction, you know, one second when you put it down or not whether it's going to work. But you know, a lot of new modern pans can work with induction, but you should check to make sure I don't have any particular one that I love or don't love. But I will tell you this, the thing that sucks about cooking with induction is that whenever you put a pan down on an induction burner, the induction burner sits there and tries to figure out what's being put on it. And so at first, it makes this weird noise while it's trying to cycle through figuring out what the exact kind of frequency wants to hit your pan with to get the maximum, you know, heating out of it. And by the way, for those of you that are looking up heating, with induction heating, in general, can be done on any metal, right, because you're dealing with what's called I squared R loss, which is literally just like the power of resistance or heating it but with an induction cooking, cooking, you're not just doing that you're using what's called the hysteresis loss of ferromagnetic materials to increase the effect of the induction thing going so that's why it's really only pans that have their special for induction that will work. Whereas if you look up induction furnaces, you can easily do things like melt aluminum with them. So that's the, that's the dealio. But the special effect of induction only works up till what's called the Curie point of the metal. And that's why for instance, I can't make or have not been able to make an induction version of my red hot poker yet, because the induction heating elements that you get will not heat things up to those levels, just just a little aside, in case anyone gives a crap now, that back to induction heating. So the irritating thing about induction is, is it's constantly scanning for a pan. And if it doesn't find the pan, it goes ape on you. And so instead of just keeping the power there, it cycles off and on and gives you a little weird error messages. So it's wherever you lift the pan to do this, okay, it makes a little weird noises. And I do tend to get used if you notice that says, No, you've never lifted the pan while you were cooking on it. You click on induction every day. Oh, that thing? Yeah. It's also had doesn't have very good feedback. But it's fantastic, especially in pastry kitchens, what ends up getting they're getting better and better. As for your max Burton, the interesting thing about the max Burton one is you find these people on the web called Open schemes.com. They have ripped apart hack and describe the circuit of that particular Max Burton model. And it is particularly easy to tweak now don't because it's dangerous. I don't want to hear that you electrocuted yourself because Dave Arnold told you to tweak it. I want you to go read open schemes website and blame them if you've electrocute yourself, but I will say that they give detailed explanations of how to dork with that circuit. And so I have plenty of projects out there where I really want to mess with induction. And so if I'm going to do that, I'm going to do it with that Max burden when you have to get a very specific Max burden. Okay, back to the question of frying on induction. Here's the issue. Temperature control is not the name of the game in frying, it is temperature recovery. So what you need is not something that is going to, you know, keep a very accurate but high temperature but one that as soon as the temperature drops, just hits the oil with full force power until it gets back up and even maybe slightly above where you want to go. That's the hallmark of a good fryer. And that's why PID control is not a good way to control a fryer. Now maybe these folks have figured out some awesome way to to like program a fry cycle into their thing whereby it knows it's a fryer, so it goes into bang, bang it off on control like a fryer does and just hits the oil like a ton of bricks with full power as soon as it drops below their temperature. But I don't know, you know, they're not they can't possibly be doing the job that I want because they're measuring it through the pant through the oil instead of measuring the oil which is what I want you to do. They're measuring the temperature of the pan through the top of the heating element which is not very fast so not going to get very fast response time so I'm guessing that they're not going to be super aggressive with the oil which is what you want. The other problem with cooking on a stovetop and I said this and I was keep saying it. For stovetop Frying is never ever going to be as good as commercial tube like a tube fryer frying because you don't have a cold zone whenever you are heating from the bottom. Particles are falling off of your food sinking to the bottom of the pan and scorching at the bottom and ruining the oil. And also when you're heating from the bottom you don't have a ton of surface area and contact with the Oil. And so you have a lot of local overheating with the oil and it's problematic. You really want if you really want to do frying right. You want to get yourself a tube fryer and I've been in what happens there. The tubes have a huge surface area. And also there's what's called a cold zone underneath it. And I've been so that your particles fall through the hot zone into the cold zone and don't score chat and I've been no one makes a small one or a home one. I don't really know why. I don't know why. Anyway, hope that answers your question. We I looks like are we out of time? Are we good?

Two minutes. We have two minutes. All right. Alex writes into your cookie issue steamed thanks for your help on the pressure cooker question I sent a couple of weeks ago I recently came across an article online that suggested dry salting poultry instead of grinding it. Obviously you would lose the benefit of drying more water into the meat but really isn't it kind of equivalent to watering down your meat is dry salting an alternative? If so, how much salts will be used for giving weight of meat, poultry and fish any ideas about how long it would take would also be much appreciated. Thanks Alex. I look I like look, here's the deal if you're going to Brian your meat The reason to Brian your meat is because you're going to take the meat above the temperature which is going to start losing moisture, right that's why we do it one to to get salt into the meat. Now if you're not going to overcook the meat, you don't necessarily need to add a lot of water to it however, you will be drawing water out of it by salting it. Because the if you're doing a dry salting you will pull liquid out and then the liquid will will fall down. Right. Whereas if you brought it away from your product, unless it's Brian, you know bat bagged in there, if you're brining it will take up a little bit of extra water. But usually if you're going to overcook your product, you're going to lose too much water anyway. That's one of the reasons you brined because the stuff wasn't moist enough when you can't when you were done with it. So you needed it to pick up that extra moisture. Now if you're not going to overcook it, then sure you're solving it just for flavor. But I don't have a problem when I do a light Brian versus a light brine for flavor when you're grinding a fish. You're also branding a fish because Okay, branding for flavor. There's branding for it began branding for flavor you can do by salting on the outside the problem was salting on the outside is it tends to be relatively concentrated on the outside. So unless you wipe it off, and then let it Aquila braid for a long time, you're gonna get an overly salty outside and under salted inside where's the Brian lets you be a little more gentle and your soul contact just saying and if you've ever tasted your brine that you've thrown your chicken into or your turkey afterwards, you know what it tastes like? Like saltwater with a little bit of blood in it, you're not like sucking a lot of flavor out of your product. So your only real gripe is the water that you're putting into it right. So sure if you're flavoring if you're grinding for flavor sure dry salt it a little bit and then you know wipe it off littered Aquila braid for a little while so it's not too salty on the outside, and maybe you're going to be in luck, right? Or maybe not, maybe it may be too salty on the outside if you're grinding because you're worried you're going to overcook it, then you want to add the extra moisture to it as well as get the salt in there because the salted proteins hold on to moisture better than the unsalted ones do. Okay. So there, it's, I mean, whatever if you're going to overcook it, you want to add the moisture period. The third reason to grind something out on something like fish is because if you cook fish, it hasn't been brined, especially with low temperature, you get too much of that white protein crap bubbling out of the fish and it spoils the appearance of the surface. And a light brining will take care of that for you and stop that from happening. And sure you can do that by just assaulting the outside. If you're doing it just for flavor. I don't really have any ratios. I just go like this. You'd be if you were looking at me you'd be seeing my hands sprinkling salt over I sprinkled good coating of salt all around it and then let it sit but I've never really measured it, you start. Anyway, hope that helps. See you next week cookies us

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