Cooking Issues Transcript

Episode 130: Washing Dishes & Fruit Sex


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You Hello and welcome to cooking issues. This is Dave on your host of cookies because cooking what could you want? Cooking issues coming to you live from a birth pizzeria in the back of Bushwick Brooklyn,

on the heritage commission host of cookies.

I wish we started a new show. It's called host of cookies. Actually that would be totally show right that'd be Christina Tosi show she could be the cookies

issues yeah

cookies issues she can she can handle that. Maybe she does maybe we can get her to guest host one time just do cookies issues. Right when you access it sounds good. Yeah. Save us a week of work. Kidding. Anyway, join as usual witness Dasha, the hammer Lopez, how're you doing? Good. Yeah. Yes. Anything interesting. I had? Nothing. Really? Not since I saw you eight hours ago. Remember the people who are listening? Haven't heard from you since last week? Yeah, you know, think people how many years we've done the show Jack?

Going on like three now. Three years. Something like that

three years. mustache is still has not figured out that the people who are hearing this don't hang out with us all the time. Weird, right. Well, I haven't done anything interesting. Since the last time I spoke. Have you kind of said have I? I don't know. I feel like I have. I don't know. I have to think about what I did last last week. And I feel like I have but I haven't thought about it. What about you jack and Joe in the engineering booth.

I'm going to Bonnaroo with heritage radio and Roberto is on Wednesday. Nice. Tomorrow. We're throwing up a pizza party. They're

nice and well. I did do something interesting. Actually. Last Tuesday, right after the radio show in the evening. Heritage radio had its first ever all host meeting right Jack? All host meeting tastes sweet. And, you know, maybe maybe after the first break, maybe Jack can say some of the changes that are going to be happening on on our fine network over the next over the next year or so. Right.

Well, it's fun stuff.

Yeah, you want to do that? Sure. All right, cool. All right, now, enjoy hearing some of you doing right. Well, I'm covering for Jack while he goes to Bonner. So, so so not so much. So you're gonna be you're gonna be moping. All right. Last week, we had a question about oh, by the way, call your questions to someone a 4972128. That's 718-497-2128. We're gonna be here for the next 45 minutes or so, ready to answer your questions. Now, last week, we got a question and that I wasn't prepared to answer about phosphates and dishwashing detergent. So for those of you that don't know, a couple of years ago, a bunch of states and then I think finally the federal government said, You know what, you're going to have to reduce the amount of phosphates or eliminate phosphates in detergents like laundry detergent. Now, the big one has, it has it's all the same crud but it's, it's, it's either called it's tri sodium phosphate, but it's also like, you know, sodium tri poly phosphates and sodium. So it's either like, you know, tsp STP STPP. And what they are is just awesome detergent awesomeness from it. So, lots of things like that, though, right? So lots of things are amazing at what they do, but cause problems for instance, asbestos, asbestos, freaking amazing insulator, completely dimensionally stable, you know, really fireproof, you know, awesome, from a technical standpoint, awesome. Also kills you. You know, so you know, you can't you can't have it both ways. You can't have the the awesome fire retardant mitts and also live turns out. But so the phosphates, it's not quite as bad as that, it's not that it's going to kill you. The issue with phosphates. And the reason that they were removed is because according to a bunch of research, one of the limiting factors in algae growth in in water bodies, is free phosphorus. And so if you dump a lot of extra phosphorus into the groundwater, and it seeps its way into, you know, rivers and lakes and streams and whatnot, you'll get huge algae blooms that will Choke, choke out the life in there. And so that's why they say to get rid of the phosphates now, phosphates were introduced into detergents. I think according to some of the research I was doing, I was poking around, you know, fairly soon after World War Two. And so what do they do according to cascade? Who is cascade the dishwashing people who've removed phosphates from their detergent? This is what they say the phosphates do. Phosphates helped with this dishwashing performance by facilitating food removal, removing the calcium that binds to these types of these types of food together and add in Grease removal, they also help control water hardness and bounce suspended soils within the wash water so that they did not redistribute on to the plates. So so in that little nutshell, they're like what tells you is that phosphates when specifically this kind of phosphate, trisodium phosphate tsp or STP, whatever they call it, are freaking amazing because they do a bunch of different things. First of all, they do what's called key late and sequester calcium ions and other metal ions. What those things do. If you don't do that, is they redeposit on your on your stuff, and make a film also that disgusting. Filmhouse does that disgusting film you get around a bathtub? Yeah, calcium and stuff, whatnot, different deposits, right? They can also calcium can bind with the soap, right? And then make insoluble stuff. And also, first of all, like molecules like calcium binding with your soap and your surfactants, your detergents. They prevent that detergent from doing the job on the dirt, right? So they shaft you that way. And I think they can also kind of cause those things to deposit into that awful film scum stuff. Right? Try sodium phosphate is, first of all, it's basic, it's Alkalyn. So automatically, it helps break up organic, organic soils, most organic soils, including stuff in dishwashing, most of the time is broken down well by Alkalyn things basic things, they break down proteins and fats and whatnot. So, which is why they're awesome D clogging grease in in a way where we're thinking about drains like liquid polymer, right? So they're awesome at that. They also they're basic, they also chelating sequester out calcium and other ions that shaft you. And so they're called what they're called builders in the trade. And so they do those phosphates that FOSS do a number of different things that it's very hard for one thing to replace it to fix. So what are they adding to it? Nowadays? They're adding sodium carbonate. So sodium carbonate, which you can make you know McGee uses it for pretzels. Sometimes you bake the hell out of baking soda and a turns from bicarbonate to carbonate. They add this it's extremely Alkalyn right so it does some of the stuff that that the FOSS fetes did. problem with it is is that stuff I'm pretty sure from from noodling around that stuff with the new detergents, it's turning your aluminum pots and pans all black and disgusting. So the reason why your pots your aluminum stuff is getting destroyed in the dishwasher now is because of things like sodium carbonate. The other thing one of the other things they add is sodium per carbonate. So this is actually what's I looked at what's in cascade, now the phosphate free, sodium percarbonate is added. And that is the main, one of the main ingredients in oxy clean because it when you add it to water, it it degrades and turns into hydrogen peroxide and sodium carbonate. So then that also is turning your aluminum pots, gray and disgusting, but it's got the Oxy clean stuff which is supposed to make up for some of the lack of bleaching cleaning power when they took out the phosphates. They they also add sodium citrate, which you know we use in cooking all the time. Oh, by the way, also, the phosphates the same reason we use them in, in cooking, they act as kind of emulsifying salts, which is also good at binding the grease and causing it from redepositing. They also have to add sodium silicate, which is actually not sodium silicate, it's a it's a specialized metal silicate that they use. Along with modified polyacrylamide, which is an anti read deposition agent. It's the same crap they use in diapers dyes to make it absorb all this stuff. But that's, you know, a different form of it anyway. So there's a bunch of different things they're adding to it to try and get rid of the phosphates. And they haven't totally gotten it right yet, but they are apparently working on it. But by all accounts, you know, they switched because they didn't want to make a bunch of different detergents for all over the country. But they haven't gotten in 100% right yet. But there is there's good news and bad news, if there's a whole group of people who do not believe this stuff hurts the environment. And if you are one of those people, you can go on the other also had some enzymes, by the way to break down proteins before this stuff starts if you have a pre soak or if you use cold water, okay, you can go on Amazon and order boxes of trisodium phosphate TSP, it's going to run you around $8 The pound. If you order the Sevagram brand, and if you order it, that's that's Amazon Prime. There's another brand called well adapt. They're famous people but they make a tsp that you can get, I think you can still buy it at Home Depot, because it's still used in pressure washing the sides of buildings prior to painting. So what you can do is just like add, you know, add a teaspoon of that to to the irregular detergent and that should phosphorus up the stuff and bring back some of the old goodness of phosphorus. Of course, you might be shifting the environment. What do you think stuff? Okay. Wow. Wow, you Yeah, it's that stars is stars is gonna go out after this. I have a meeting but she's gonna go frack she's gonna go frack some stuff. Hey, Dave, you have a caller on the line. All right. Cool. So that's the that's the issue on detergents. Go buy the stuff if you need to. Otherwise sit tight. They're gonna make the stuff work eventually. Caller you're on the air.

Hi, everybody. Aaron calling from Oregon,

Oregon.

We're an Oregon dishwashing thing. Yeah. I used to be a dishwasher. When I first started out the industry. I basically had the same or same problem with all the aluminum pans. With a very old dishwasher. We had the big clean. Thanks a lot since now.

Yeah, yeah, well, and by the way, just to go back for a second. You can also buy industrial industrial dishwashing stuff can still have the phosphates and so you say you can get it. But that's a good No. And I think even the phosphate ones, they will ruin the aluminum somewhat but there's not as badly as the new ones do the deal is is that the the sodium carbonate and things like it what they do is they eat away the protective oxide surface on the aluminum and then allow it to react with the water more so that that that's what's going on. So before you go to where we're we're in Oregon or you were in Oregon, are you

legis we go. A little South Portland.

Yeah. Well, I still have not made I was in Portland recently. But I still have not made it to Corvallis yet, which is my dream to go to Corvallis during berry season. But you got a question for me?

I do. It's about ice cream. A friend of mine owns and ice cream shop here in Portland. And we were having a discussion about making a sea salt ice cream about adding it in and folding in sea salt to get crunch of sea salt. Right. But we run into the problem of osmosis and the sea salt itself melting into the mix and frozen base itself. Yeah,

I would imagine the idea of

either powdering it with multi dextran or emulsifying in some sort of fat. But we haven't had the chance or the money or the time basically to test any of it out. I was wondering if you had any ideas on how something like that might work if it's possible at all? Well,

I mean, if you Yes, if you had enough time, I'm sure it's possible. Anytime that salt is contacting a water based like a liquid, you're going to get, you're going to get salt melting, it's just going to happen right? So you know you're on the right track, you have to protect the salt with something that is insoluble in, in water. So for instance, you could chocolate coat the salt you know what I mean? Or you could or you know, you don't have to use chocolate chocolate, you could use another solid fat like cocoa butter or something like that, and coat the salt. So if you were to take like a like a panning attachment, I'm sure you could pan malting crystals with cocoa butter, and then fold them into your ice cream. And as long as there's no route for the water to enter, I mean, it won't last forever, but it'll last a lot longer than you have now. I mean, otherwise, you're going to have to do something you know fairly sophisticated like coated with another water insoluble product like for instance corn Zane. But the problem with corn Zane Quarantine is a protein that's soluble in alcohol but not in water. So you would dissolve this Zain in high proof ethanol, toss the salt and it won't dissolve the salt out. And then you let the alcohol flash off and you get a coating around the salt. I don't know how completely impermeable the Zayne is. But it's used as a confectionery coating at times to prevent moisture migration, right, but I don't again, I don't know how long it's gonna last. Like the third choice. I mean, the third choice would be, you know, you could use what's called an alpha tending emulsifier and an oil and you mix them and then as they as they start drying out, they should form a film around the outside of the sub, you're gonna need some sort of moisture, impermeable thing, I mean that the best, I mean, the best thing I could think of is something so chocolate is quite thick. Cocoa butter is fairly thin when it melts. So you might be able to get a constantly churning thing of cocoa butter and get a very thin coating. I'm not sure you know what I mean? Or like just make it into like blocks of sugar and, and I sorry, salt and something like like white chocolate or a cocoa butter, some sort of solid fat, and then to shatter it, grind it into smaller pieces. Some of the pieces will be totally protected and others won't. You'll get some of the crunch from the chocolate pieces anyway, but inside of that you'll get crystal in crunch. I don't know of a way of preserving individual salt crystals, so they're not gonna melt out though. Does any of this make any sense?

It makes amazing sense. Yes.

Cool. So listen, what you should do. If you try any of this stuff, please tweet us back at at cooking issues and let us know how it worked. Okay.

I will. I am actually heading down to the pear orchards this summer. Oh my god. I hope to see you there.

Oh my god, I would love to go this summer. I'm going to try to make it happen. I was going to go to the Miami to do mangoes again this year. And it turns out has been a horrible mango crop in Miami or the pears looking okay, over there in Oregon.

They're coming out pretty strong right now.

Sweet. You want to do that stuff? I'm gonna go to Corvallis. Man, she's like, she doesn't want to go. I'm gonna go maybe I'll get Nikita fly up to Alright, cool. So we'll mention over the air if we're gonna do it. Anyway, thanks for calling and let us know how it works. Well, thank you guys, YouTube. Okay, so we had a question in from James last week about making raspberry and other fruit flavored gins Hi, Dave. Anastasia, Jack Joe at all. If we don't have the at all today? No at all at all today? A little no little? No, no at all. It's good. I enjoy the show and have gotten through the archives. So I'm up to date enough to ask a question, by the way people to not feel obliged to listen to everything that we've said before you ask a question, right? Yeah, right. Okay. I've recently tried your ag or clarified strawberry gin recipe from the cooking issues blog with a slight modification. From changing from strawberries to frozen raspberries, it not being the season for fresh berries, and easier to get frozen raspberries turned out delicious. The end product is a bit cloudy due to my over squeezing of the gel. But this settles out nicely on the sitting alongside this I tried classic confusion technique just putting raspberries into the gin letting it sit, and an ISI raspberry gin infusion. Each technique gives a gin which is similarly clarified. After reading the ISI and Agra one sit to sediment out well I foolishly didn't keep the ginger raspberry ratio constant for these tests. I would imagine that I can adjust this ratio to match the color and flavor profile of each technique to the new techniques simply provide an improved yield less berries giving a stronger better flavor and more rapid processing. If so, what is a good use for the Ag or clarification alcohol infusion it gives a clarified product when classic infusions won't cheers, James I think that's exactly right. The benefit of ag or clarification techniques is that when you do it, you know you blend the fruit and the end the product and so you get you know very fast you know mingling of the airy and the the the gin. So the issue is your yield is not going to be as high so you're going to lose product. I mean I do it in a centrifuge. Luckily the enzyme I use pectin X Ultra SPL, when I do clarification is fairly alcohol insensitive. So you can you can blend things directly like that with the enzyme, the enzyme breaks down the pectins. And boom, you spin it out, I would recommend, even if you're doing regular ag or clarification, go on monitors pantry.com, buy some pectin X Ultra SPL to break down the pectins in your slurry before you set it with ag bar, you will increase your yield by 20% at least because it thins it out. So and on regular infusions, you're just sitting a long time making an aqua Vida can take you know, days weeks, depending on how strong infusion is, you know, but again, it's valid. I tend to you know, when I'm doing infusions, and I want them rapidly, it's either because I don't have time or because I feel that the quality of the flavor is going to change as it sits for a long, long time. Strawberry gin, for instance, when I make strawberry gin, very fresh strawberry gin tastes different from strawberry gin, it's been sitting around for a long time. So there is changes that take place in it as it sits. And so sometimes those changes are good. Sometimes they're bad. Sometimes they're just different. So when I want very fresh flavors, I'll do isI or I'll do but if you do isI on berries, you want to have strawberries anyway, you want to slice them very thin. So you get rapid rapid penetration raspberries is not such a such as big deal. Another thing you can do, if you want to do raspberries with a more traditional technique is do a pre treat of the raspberries with pectin, methyl esterase, which is Novo shape. I think monetarist pantry is carrying that now. That will keep the flesh intact over long laceration periods and then put a lot of the raspberries in, and it'll even out and then both the raspberries should be good. And the and the licorice should be good. Most of the time. It's either one's go to the others good, but not both. Right. Right. Okay. Cool. Are you you're on the air.

Hi, Dave. This is Dave. I actually saw you. Roberta's two weeks ago. Oh, yeah. Yeah. In the US in New York. It was awesome. I Roberta suit is great. When a WD 50 was amazing. Nice. So yeah, it was awesome. So yeah, I got a question about induction burners. So I'm about to move into, or I'm moving a coffee shop from one to the other. And the other space is a little smaller, we don't have a space for a guest of So thinking of getting an induction burner, because mainly for you know, making syrup. And we also make a little bit of ice cream there. So just wondering if there's anything I should be looking out for other than sighs?

Well, I mean, so here's the thing on induction burners, I love them. They're great, right? Well, you got to make sure you have the correct power, which I'm assuming you do, you have to figure out how you want your station setup. So the induction burners, if you're getting portables or movables, right, they come as singles. And I wouldn't bother getting the little, the little home jabi ones like some people try to use those in industrial settings, but they, they kind of crap out on you sometimes. And a lot of times, you know, when you're doing professional stuff, you don't want them to crap out on you. And the reason they crap out on you is because they don't have sufficient cooling circuits to run the thing hardcore. And so if you try to overdrive them, they shut down and thermal overload, they come back, they don't die permanently. But that's kind of an irritating thing to have happened to you, you know, when you need to get a bunch of stuff out. So and I think that's the main difference between the relatively inexpensive home ones or the ones that are so portable for catering that can plug into a regular 110 socket, and the much bigger ones, the only of the bigger ones, you know, I really only had experience with the with the cook tech ones, but your main choices are the following. You can either get single induction hobs, they're obviously the most portable and they take the least electricity, but they only take about one, one pot at a time. The other thing is you can get duals. Now the choice in duels is this, they have front back duels. And they have side side duels. Right? So the advantage of a front back duel is that you can you can get you can get one and then you can get another one stick it right next to it and now you have like a four burner range and then you can get another one stick it right next to it and now you have six burners and they're all controlled from the front. Right? Which is it seems to me to be a pretty big advantage. But you know, the guys that sambar had one and they were having some problems with I don't know where there's a problem with that unit in particular, but the concept to me is very appealing because it allows you to make a choice now and not be shafted for later. Although nobody wants to cook front back if you only have to do you know what I'm saying? If you only have to you definitely You want to cook side side, but if you know you're eventually going to gang up for six of them, then I'm pretty sure you want to go front back. The other thing is, is that even, you know, 567 years ago, when people were buying commercial induction units, they always broke, always broke. And the breaking features were two reasons. One, a cook would put a pot down very heavy on the glass surface and shatter it, I saw more than five broken that way. And then the other problem was, is everyone wanted the holy grail of Range Rover oven. And if you do range over oven, especially with the electronics, the way they had them, you know, years ago, they always burned out, it was like inevitable. So you know, but it doesn't sound like you're gonna have that problem because you're not going hot over, you're not you're not going hot over hot, so you're not going to have probably cooling issues, you want to make sure that those suckers stay ventilated. So it's going to be a choice for you of what kind of configuration you want. You know what I mean? Right? Right, I mean, I would I would, I would don't pay too much attention to I mean get like a powerful one. But remember that wattage in an induction unit is not comparable to wattage and electrical resistance heated rangetop it's completely non comparable because the efficiencies are you know, vastly different between the two. So you know, a much smaller wattage is going to give you in an induction unit is going to give you the same output that you're going to get in terms of like the actual heat in the pan as as the as the other regular coil units. And also you can't make a good conversion between BTUs and a gas range and watts into the into the induction you know I've had you know, I've done races even with the crappy induction versus you know, a fairly good gas and the induction most of the time is going to win because it's directly heating the pan you get a first mean you're going to pay more electricity no doubt about it, you are going to have less ventilation requirement and it's going to take less HVAC load to cool your kitchen down should you call your kitchen down which you probably will if you know probably will somewhat so you can you can win on those the only ones I really have experience with though. On the commercial side are the cook Tex and I think they work fine. But you know, I don't have a lot of experience with the with the other brands.

It's sort of like a ballpark of like wattage, I should be looking out for

a hoof. Well, I'm trying to get as high as you can, right? I mean, you know, they should be you know, the ones that run on to 20 You should be able to get a couple kilowatts into them no problem right? So the ones that you plug into a regular socket are limited to about 1500 Watts that's about the limit that someone's going to want to suck out of a wall socket so a 15 was 1.5 kilowatt so 1.5 kilowatt induction burner that you know the standard kind of crappy home models they are they work fairly well they're not as good as an industrial you know range like a jade are one of those things, but they're pretty good they're pretty damn good. But then so you go to the next jump up like a three kilowatt burner. I think they make three we look at it they're like the most you're gonna suck out of a regular 110 is about 1.5 kilowatts. So above that you're looking at gravy if I haven't looked at the specs recently because I haven't bought one but if they have like a two kilowatt or three kilowatt you're probably looking at, you know mucho powered into the pan. And I know they make wok burner units that are like four and five kilowatts, and those suckers are nuts. They because they they're nuts. They're insane.

Cool. Anyway, it's helpful.

All right, cool. Well, let us let us know how it works out if you have any more questions, give us a call back. Okay, great. Thanks. Thank you. You guys want to go to the first break? Yes, coming right back with cooking issues.

say once again that this is the meat ballers fans and listeners of cooking issues and the song is called Fish is fish is vodka.

This is Chris Young, co author of Modernist Cuisine and co founder of chefsteps.com We've just launched our free short course on verification, a modernist technique that can imbue a flavorful liquid with the appearance of being solid, a culinary illusion that's broken when the spheres burst with flavor as they're eaten. Our free course offers helpful step by step depth demonstrations of reverse, frozen, reverse and directs verification. We also explore the science behind verification so that you can go beyond our recipes, and create your own to surprise and delight your family and friends. And as always, at ChefSteps you get the support of a friendly community of experienced cooks, and world class chefs who will answer your questions. If you're interested in learning modernist cooking techniques, if you want more from the creative team behind Modernist Cuisine, and if like us, you're a fan of Dave Arnold and cooking issues. Yeah, then we think you'll find a lot you'll like, sign up now@chefsteps.com

So yeah, Jack Yep.

Oh, well, I was just I was just excited because I'm also a fan of Dave Arnold and cooking issues. I'm glad the guys at ChefSteps are too. You know who else is a fan of Dave Arnold and couldn't get us everybody inherited radio? Yeah, like you said, we had our big first all staff all hosts meeting kind of awesome to get everybody in the same room. What a lot of people a lot of the founding hosts the early hosts in the same room, same time. We just debuted the summer of food today, which is a student submission program where people are giving us travel logs and recordings and musings from their summer of food which includes coverage on issues of farming, sustainability, and all sorts of things. So that's really fun. We're opening up a whole new post production division of the network, lots and lots of new stuff. And I would highly highly recommend every listener of cooking issues, go to our website, click on evolutionary trees, and there's an episode of Harold McGee where he tells his whole life story really in a very tightly edited post produced way I think it's very fascinating for all fans of modernist cooking when is that gonna? It's up it has debuted so it's there for your listening pleasure archived the evolutionary series on heritage radio network it's right there in the homepage.

We have a bunch more that are coming out over the summer Yeah,

tons Yeah, wildly as well. Nice. We're we edited his who knew he was such a competitor sports guy.

He likes it he likes his sports he does he does he's damaged like his you know some part of his arms he has to get it fixed I think from like you know repetitive not from punching his cooks apparently but from cooking I think he damaged is I don't think it was in sports. I think it was in cooking. He just

always wanted a sports injury and then you know had to make it happen through cooking full

contact cooking.

Nice big news stories really great to everyone should check it out. Indian food grew up eating Indian food Lena

McGee McGee, half half Indian also McGee sports guy but not like you know he's like a runner has been for a long time. Man runs all the all the damn time. Did you know that did he mention that on the on the on the program to listen and find out yeah, I'll tell you something. I hate running. No offense but like I hate running like it's I hate it like you don't have stats do you like running? No. You have people like they say they get this endorphin rush from running that they like it and then they like to keep running. I've never felt that my life you guys anyone? No way. No no. No I used to I used to run track but it was never fun. No, no, it's not fun running around not fun. Although, Dax of my kids book index not the bar just got picked for the track team. Nice. Nice. Well, many. Rolf writes in Dear Miss hammer and nail so I guess I'm the nail getting hit on the head by I guess all of us are. There's nails so Jack and Joe also getting hit on the head with the hammer. Mustache? Oh, by the way, just just during the commercial break totally busted me. Because I was remember last week I said that. Like I was gonna go to jail because we couldn't find out what my court date was for my bicycle ticket. I was like I gave it to you where the hell is it? And she's like, You didn't give it to me. You took it back. And we had a big argument and I looked at my wall. Guess what? It was there my wallet. Right around right. So now she's gonna now she's gonna be she's gonna be moody all day as a result of all I just don't like how angry you get. How angry? What? Do I get angry? Jack and Joe do I get angry? I guess I do. But I don't. It's not it's like, you know, it's not serious anger, right? Cartoon anger, cartoon anger. That's me. That's why no one takes me seriously. Okay, Rolf writes in Dear Ms. hammer and nails. Following on Tom Fisher's questions about his kissing Khun recon pressure cooker, I can add that mine circa 2009 has always done the same thing. Bought it while living in France and the customer service there isn't such that it was worth suffering, suffering the follow up in a follow up on it that I'd have to do to get it fixed. So I just got used to it. For what it's worth. It's not the secondary slash higher pressure valve which is the one on the side. But the pressure indicator valve itself I've taken it apart, cleaned it. It has done first use so it wasn't food contamination, tried to adjust the tightness of the bolt and the bottom of the pressure indicator. Used to be I could quiet temporarily by turning it while it hissed as though either the whole of them or the valve weren't quite round, but no longer hope that's useful in your data collecting Roth. It is useful actually. And I've heard you know mine is so Took a long, long time ago, but I heard that Kuhn recon was having some issues with QC, that's quality control, and having some issues with QC for a while, but that they had it fixed. I mean, I'd like to know how many people have this problem with Kuhn recon, because one of my favorite things about it is that it doesn't leak. I mean, it's still gonna leak a lot less than, you know, some of the other brands like fake or that you know, leak by design. But anyway, yeah, I do want that for for my research. Okay. Colin Gore haven't heard from Colin Cornwell. writes in about Apple's POM nerds He calls us I guess we got some good salutations. Today, right. Dear palm nerds, my British girlfriend has been looking for Bramley apples in the United States, they're big tart baking apples that it seems can only reproduce by having a threesome super kinky triploid action, the referring to the number of sets of chromosomes. So we are diploid, we have two sets of chromosomes. You know, there's when you have more than that it's called polyploidy. Right? So more than so the but the problem is, is that usually it's an even number in order to in order to for the things not to be sterile. So three sets triploid means that usually if you're triploid, you're, you know, three sets of chromosomes, you are sterile anyway. You know, not you personally, you are the fruit tree, not you the person because I don't think that that doesn't work for us. Okay, I recall brogdale Farm is a massive fruit repository in the UK. But I think you mentioned the US having a living library of apples as well. Where is that? And have you cooked with Bramleys? What makes them so interesting to the Brits? And what other weird fruit sects Can you share? Okay, so the issue, first of all the, the places in Geneva, New York, it's how I'm gonna forget how far it is maybe like four or five hours from New York City. And it's the Geneva Apple extension. It's an extension of Cornell, but the apple repository is run by the United States government. It's like Noah's Ark for apples and they don't really like a lot of people there don't really some of the people care about the actual apples, but the theory is, is that if some new disease comes in, people don't think about it if you don't think about trees a lot, but a lot of our major trees over the past 100 years have been wiped out by introduced pathogens and new tree pathogens. So, you know, Dutch elm disease wiped out the, you know, the majority of our ELMS which were kind of the preeminent street tree. We had our chestnuts wiped out by chestnut blight. They were like the one of the primary, you know, trees of the Eastern forest. You know, they were like from sheer number standpoint, we're one of the largest numbers almost completely wiped out. Now only young saplings grow from the dead stumps. We have butternut canker killing our butternut trees. There's just like, do we have we have a fungus that infects a beech trees and other important you know, us tree. So you get thing called Beech snap, we have introduced things that are killing off our hemlocks, you know, our great conifers. So there's a we have a long life, just a long couple 100 year history of having some of our major and important tree species getting wiped out by introduced pathogens. So what they're worried about is that some pathogen is going to come in and attack all of our commercial cultivars and wipe them out. So what they do is they have 1000s of varieties of different apples sitting there. And, and you know, that way they can figure out which ones are resistant to whatever new pathogen comes in, and then they can create new apples from those that's why they keep them and they still haven't successfully insured the keeping just the clonal the you can't keep apple seeds, because apples don't grow true to see but they can keep they keep the wood frozen in liquid nitrogen. But some people say that keeping the wood like that so they can make new grass have it frozen in liquid nitrogen isn't so good because it can cause a sport so it can change slightly from the parent tree. So people still say you have to grow all the trees anyway, that's why it's there. It's a fantastic place to visit. Okay, now back to Bramleys. So here's the thing I have not cooked with Bramleys because I've never really done I haven't had a kitchen in the UK and they don't really make Doom so much over there. Me the Brits I think they they just they dislike them a lot. The first wheel Bramley comes from the UK and was discovered around 1809 It's called a Bramley seedling, and what that means is that it was discovered as a seedling, it wasn't a sport or anything like that, because what used to do is you'd spray apple seeds around like you know, 20 trees would come up maybe one of them was good because apples as I say don't come through to seed. Okay, so the interesting thing about Bramleys triploid thing is that you need to other kinds of apple trees near it to have it work right and here's why. So triploid trees don't produce pollen. All right, first of all apple trees don't like to sell fertilize usually, which means you need at least two different apple trees near each other to get a good crop of apples, right triploid trees have two to two separate triple things in general right of course, according to I don't think he keeps it current anymore, but I'm no one to talk the fruit blog.blogspot.com triploid fruits tend to be larger, which is why a lot of people liked them, but they trees tend to produce fewer flowers, right? And they don't typically produce pollen. Now. Remember, the apple trees can't pollinate themselves. So you need normally you need two different kinds of apple trees, right? One one to pollinate the other. You don't really care what the seeds on the inside of the apples are because you're not going to grow from the seed anyway, anytime you got to reproduce the apple, you're going to do it by grafting. Okay, here's the thing. So you got these two apple trees. Now, the Bramleys is just sitting there doing nothing doing squat. So you have to wait for the other tree to pollinate it right. Now here's the other thing. If you want that tree to also produce apples, you need a third tree out there to give pollen to that tree because the Bramleys is shooting blanks. Right? Okay. So that's that. So some other triploid trees out there apples are ash meets kernel, which is my favorite kernel measures were proceed. What my favorite all time, drink apple jonagold, mu Crispins and Gravenstein. So there's a lot of triple eight stuff out there. Now, the other question is, what is? So what are their weird kind of fruit sexes? That way? I gotta call her. So weird fruit sex after the call caller? You're on the air. Hello, hello.

Oh, hey, I have a question about doing chicken. So I ended up doing a lot of catering. And I pretty unhappy with just the way that chicken turns out in large quantities, being able to reheat it, right? For catering setup. And I was just wondering if you had kind of any ideas about how could how I could do something that would be delicious. And at the same time, you know, somewhat easy to pull off in the kind of catering situation.

Sure How many how many people on average, we talking?

Let's just say like 125? Okay,

and what kind of, you're talking like a main course chicken so hot. Yeah, Marine Corps hot. And what kind of finishing stuff do you usually have with you

with with that, well, I have a circulator. I have a bunch of other stuff I can bring with me, but generally we just use a grill or sometimes we have ovens or like fryers or stuff like that. For instance, the grill,

right? Yeah, I mean, so I mean, the so the the issue with chicken, right? Specifically chicken and specifically main dish hot prep chicken, is that in order to crisp the skin out nicely, you need to cook the chicken for a lot. I mean, chicken skin has to dry out and render and crisp. That's why other than deep frying, super fast techniques tend to produce a less than awesome surface on the exterior of the chicken right?

For and the and the breast meat is just tends to get way over cooked,

right? Right now, if you now so that I would, I would circulate the chicken, I would bone it unless you need to serve it on the bone. Because if you circulate chicken with a bone on it, you can tend to get a lot of pinking and read around it, which doesn't go away and catering. That's like death. Right? Yeah. I

mean, that's I've gotten through the strict leaving a chicken before so many times. And I mean, I'm not against the bone in it. But I mean, I prefer the thighs. And I would prefer not to do bone size. You know what I mean? Like, I mean, maybe we could just keep on the breast or something.

But yeah, I mean, the issue is especially on thighs with that little short bone, so much red in that bone, that the thigh, the thighs really turn pink if you anytime you do a low temp. Like to me, the easiest way to get around the problem of cooking a bunch of stuff off the last minute and having been is is to do low temp, but low temp on thigh. You're asking for a complete world of hurt if you don't do it. You know, the other thing you could do is you could if you nitrate them, the whole thing will be painting look cured. You know what I mean? And then people don't mind the pink so much. But people freak out on chickens like for that people just don't want to see the red, the red chicken. I mean, the advantage of boning, right? The disadvantage obviously is the friggin work. Right. The advantage of the boning is you can then use the bone scraps to make stocks and gravies without having to get anything extra people do like eating the thigh, the thigh meat, boneless, I mean what we used to do when we're doing large scale chicken for hot prep is we would bone out the the whole chicken and then roll it so like In the skin, we would do the thought thighs and, and drums on the, you know, cut open glued to the skin, and then breast meat in the center rolled. And then we would poach those off at, you know, in the circulator at like 6364, that cooks the breast meat in the middle and almost cooks the other meat all the way through, you can let it ride like 57, pull it, and then throw it on the grill to crisp off the skin and take that thyme, eat up a couple of extra degrees to cook it out. And that everyone always ends up liking that preparation. Because everyone gets a little bit of white, everyone gets a little bit of dark ants boneless, but it is a lot of work beforehand. The good news is that it's beforehand, so it's not work on site. If you want to, if you want to cook the size boneless, you're going to have to go to a much higher temperature or just cook it much faster, I haven't done a lot of experiments, my guess is that if you cooked it at 66, and you kept the layer fairly thin or 67, that you would be able to get rid of some of the pinking as long as you cooked it relatively quickly at those temperatures, like in a you know, in a combi with it going or something like that. But I haven't done a lot. I haven't had any success with bone in thighs done low temperature.

And what is the issue when you do those temperatures, the read is that coming from I mean, when you circulate it, the bag is a marrow coming out of the bone or is it more of just the time, after cooking for a long time it turns paying for I don't know,

it's both, it's both. So what happens is, is when you suck a vacuum on a piece of chicken to put it in a bag, you know, if you're not using zip ease, that vacuum will cause stuff to come out of the bone, which it ain't no and all the vessels around there and that will put a lot of the pink and the meat around the bone. And also, the bone is going to act as an insulator, I mean the same thing that makes it good in doing traditional cooking, it insulates the meat so it doesn't overcook right is bad in low temperature cooking because it's slower. So it kind of protects that. And then you know the the redness, the how much of the red is the nature is dependent upon the rate of denaturation. So in slow in cooking, that takes longer period of time to heat through up to cooking temperatures, you're going to have more red than you would in a situation where those temperatures are achieved quickly. So it's kind of you're doubly shafted by it. I mean, it can be done. But like you're going to want to either use Ziploc bags or very low vacuums. And you're going to want to push the temperatures a little bit higher than you would otherwise want to push them. So you what you could do is you could do your breasts at 63 to 65. I've never done this, but then try to do the legs at like 67 to 68 and see whether or not they're still juicy up at those at those temperatures. And maybe those temperatures are high enough to wipe out the pink even with the bones in but if you suck a hard vacuum, you're never going to get rid of the pink.

Yeah, yeah. I've run into that a couple of times now. Okay, that's helpful. Yeah, I guess you don't need is probably my best option. It is a

pain in the butt. But you do get lots of delicious gravy. Thank you. Good luck. So back to weird, weird fruit sex. So seedless fruits, by the way, are one of either two situations happen, right? Either you have a situation back where you know, the the tree is actually pollinated, but no seeds form I call that the shooting blanks method right. That's called actually steno. Sperm. Oh QRP. Right. And that's how seedless grapes work and things like that. The other one is this stock is going to like this one parthenocarpic Which which means virgin fruit version fruit. And that's how things like bananas and certain figs work because they don't need to be pollinated for the fruit to form which is weird, right? So like bananas back in the day before they were like, you know, awesome food things have like lots of seeds in them and they're fundamentally inedible until they found these ones that had parthenocarpic So and there are certain figs that are also parthenocarpic They don't need any sort of pollination but sighs You know how to things are right like the old school figs. You know how they're done, right? Here's some weird fruits eggs for you. Wasps go into there's a male fig tree and a female fig tree right? They're not on the same tree. And the male ones have the they're called Capri figs and male trees and they have this thing called a cinco ciconia. I think Sinfonia ciconia. Anyway, and male are the wasps no milk, the wasps go into the fig, right? And they lay their eggs in the fig. Right? And then the wasps are born and they eat their way out of the fig. Right and they fly to a female tree go into the fig and try to they can't get back out again lay their eggs in no sorry. They die in there when they die. They don't lay their eggs I guess they No they don't. They die in there but they pollinate it. Well they do. And the fig dissolves the Wasp on the inside, so there's no Wasp left. Oh It's kind of bizarre for example you got another caller yes caller you're on the air more more fruit checks after the call

hey it's Brian in San Francisco how's it going?

All right how you doing?

Good so I dehydrated my apricot and I wanted to let you know that it is side by side with the the scorebook acid on one tray labor costs and then I did the potassium metal by sulfate on for the other tray and far and away the potassium metal by cell type one

yeah was there any off flavor from the sulfur I would guess not right

I did not taste any flavor but in the bath I could definitely snow you know that rotten a full pure sulfur smell

right and it should it should volatilize anyway while it's dehydrating

I should also say that the ascorbic acid that the apricot sensitive tasting sour stuff what from from from that ascorbic acid that was was was on the surface also I should say that I did get some browning on the potassium metal myself it's not foolproof I use half a percent by weight and you know I still got I still got some so maybe I needed to increase that I mean the one that I was did some reading that they use a kind of a smoke box where they smoke some kind of sulfur dioxide I guess it is into the into the box when they do it commercially, which is how how they make sure that there's no there's no Browning at all

right well some set web because it hits everything. Some people burn this off as some commercial people do use the dip. They use a much heavier duty dip then then they sulphide people for home dehydration recommend. But you know, it's the same procedure. They used to bleach palm fronds up you know, palm things for making Panama hats. They bleach them with sulfur. They burned sulfur underneath the underneath the palm leaves so that they can bleach them out for making Panama hats. So yeah, it's it's an old school. It's an old school technique. How was how was your wife with the software? Any problems?

She hasn't tried them yet. But I think it should be fine. Because she did she does okay with with most wine with wine. So it's just the asthma piece which was in question.

Right? Well, you know, have an inhaler nearby. She does she she uses Taylor. Yeah, have an inhaler nearby. I mean, if she has most wines that problem I you know, you're not going to probably get a reaction, or at least not one that's life threatening.

Yeah. But it was nice to do the side by side. So now I know I have a clearer sense of

it. Cool tweet, a tweet a picture over at cooking issue. So I can take a look at it if you can't,

I'll try to do that with my with my dumb phone. But I have another question here. Which is, I need a foolproof recipe for mayonnaise, because I tried the immersion blender technique that I found on the serious eats website and I tried it I couldn't save it. And then I tried to ease I looked in his case a good cookie. He said, another yoke if it breaks, and I added on I couldn't and I and I tried it with a whisk also as well. So I need some some advice on on ratios and technique.

Right. Well, did you hear the did you hear the episode where we lost Chris Young on it where like my feeling is, is that the main problem is when you're doing a series each technique of using the immersion blender without you know without any sort of pre mixing is the is the size of the vessel. So if you did you did you hear that one? So if you're making the Yeah, so like the trick is okay, so I I've been contradicted by a couple of listeners who have written in and said that they can make it normally in a large vessel like a quart container. But I was running some side by side test using the immersion blender to make the mayonnaise in the immersion blender cup which is roughly the same diameter as the belle of the immersion blender. And when you do that, you know the egg yolk sinks to the bottom It like makes an emulsion and then builds very quickly and easily Right. Or and then I tried doing it in a quart container and it failed miserably. miserably. miserably and and and just like you said I tried to fix it miserable, just awful. So when you're making it in large vessels, meaning like when I do it in large vessels I take a whisk I break the egg yolk I hit it I hit it with mustard vinegar hit it and then very very slowly drizzle in the first bit of oil while I furiously mixed with my hands until you see a stable emulsion forming. Then I use a whisk yeah but then but like not anymore. Now I you know I use for small quantities. I do the immersion blender thing once you form an emulsion, then you can kind of go ape. You know what I mean? Then then all of a sudden nothing matters anymore. The hard part about Manet's is is the very beginning part getting that initial stable thing going. So my feeling is, is that if you're doing the quart container situation, although some people say they do it in a quart container, it works. But if you're doing it in a quart container, at least with one egg yolk, I was unsuccessful because it makes the egg yolk and the oil together before it and form any kind of stable emulsion. Yeah, and so then you're just hosed. Now the the other thing is, is that, you know, you want to, you want to make roughly 80% Oil 20% water based stuff, that's how it works. And McGee and I used to do, you know, as part of the Curious Cook was his second book, which you should guys should all go on AB E or on Bookfinder, whatever and buy a copy of it. But, you know, he goes through there the experiment that you can actually make, you know, many quarts of mayonnaise out of one egg yolk. So we used to do that and we would do with a whisk, we would get one egg yolk, we would we would hit it with a whisk and we would start making and then we would just make gallons of mayonnaise with the one with the one egg yolk, right? That but you have to keep adding water to it right because if you get too much oil in the emotional break and then you're shafted, right? So you want to try to stay but the other hand is if you don't add enough oil, it's thin. So adding the oil up to around 70 Brown 7570 to 80% 80% right when you get there is when it gets that thick Manet's consistency anything less and it's going to be thin, anything too much more and the man is is going to break but you can always add some liquid back in thin it down and then build it back with more oil.

Okay, I got the ratios do I need to refrigerate it because I don't understand how why Japanese mayonnaise is not ever in the fridge.

Well same with New Orleans mayonnaise. You know they guys in New Orleans keep their mayonnaise out all the time. The the issue usually when you're making mayonnaise, you add acid to the egg yolk portion of it. And over time the very low water activity combined with the acid will kill whatever ails you in the mayonnaise. At least so they say but the issue the issue is that mayonnaise right out of the gate is not safe the Japanese guys Kewpie they might actually also dope it with something to kill kill anything in it. But my impression from what I've read is that Manet's properly made band aids with an acidifier and it gets safer over time, not less safe over time.

So how long do you think it'll keep?

Oh, long time you know, my grandma used to my grandma would throw away any sandwich or Manet's on it that was out for more than like 20 seconds she would be like, Ah, man is down the chute throw it out. But you know, I don't have any solid numbers for you but a while. But I would make it small quantities anyway, though. You don't I mean, Megan's Got it.

Got it. Got it. Got it. Okay, I'm gonna I'm gonna try to you're going to try this technique and make sure you have my ratios. Right. Can I ask you another question? Is there time? Sure. Okay. By my I make I make a fair and I make also read starter. But the problem with having them out all the time is that I gotta keep feeding them. So I put in the fridge to slow the slow down the reactions are for both them. And I understand they're, they're separate. But my question is, is there a different kind of acid that is released that that that temperature for the fermentation, then it would be at room temperature, meaning something that there's more more lactic acid or room temp and or some kind of a different kind of acid ascorbic or something? And so I'm wondering if, if that's an that's a consideration, or I need to bring it to room temp first when I use it and just kind of store it when I'm not using the fridge? Thoughts?

Right? Well, here's the deal. So anytime you change the either what something is growing on what the starter medium is, or anytime you change the growing conditions, meaning the temperature which is stored, or I guess even really the humidity which is stored, you're going to shift which bacteria and which yeas are growing properly in that starter, right. So if you look at any sort of actual fermentation, it's not one specific thing that is growing over the length of the fermentation different organisms take over at different stages depending on what the pH is, and depending on what the temperature is, etc, etc, depending on how much oxygen is dissolved. So, the trick is, if you want a consistent starter, you just have to do everything consistently. So yes, storing it in the fridge will change the culture, right, somewhat, but when you use it, as long as you use it the same way every time and store it the same way every time eventually you'll achieve some sort of consistency you hope another thing you can do if you want to store it also changes the consistency is a lot of people store their starters of very much more stiff than you would ordinarily form a starter and that slows down all the rates of reactions. Another thing people do this dope it with more with more solids or flour.

Okay, got it. All right, thanks so much. Have a good week.

You too. All right now on our way out. I didn't get to talk about salt raisin bread this time or hickory nuts. We'll get that to that next time, I hope but one last. Fruit sex. My favorite fruit sex of all is vanilla. Soy vanilla, vanilla, the bean the orchid, right? Vanilla is from Mexico and in Mexico is pollinated by a special B that only grows in Mexico. And when they tried to take vanilla out of the Mexico, they could not get it to reliably produce because it will not pollinate itself. It turns out that vanilla orchids have a chastity belt on them. And vanilla orchid. It's called the Aurora stellium. And the deal is is that vanilla orchids don't want to pollinate themselves. They want to prevent self pollination because they don't like vanilla orchids don't appreciate incest right now. So no one could figure out what the hell was going on. No one could get vanilla to produce on the island of I guess in French is crazy, you know, but it's reunion in the US language here right, which is off the coast of Madagascar. In 1841, a slave named Edmund Albinus figured out how to how to land what's what's a polite way to say it how to sex up the orchid by remove it by taking the orchid flipping open the chastity belt and taking with a little blade of grass and taking his thumb and rubbing the male private parts and the female private parts with his finger and force ancestrally pot pollinate the vanilla beans and single handedly this slave invented the vanilla trade that coming out of Madagascar coming out of reunion single handedly now. He was a slave. So you got almost no credit at all right? They outlawed slavery soon thereafter, in the late 1840s. France did right and he just kind of was like left to fend for himself. No money, no nothing. And he actually got sent he stole some jewelry because he was sentenced to 10 years in prison. This guy literally was the foundation of this of what was one of the biggest industries over there. They finally let them out the Glenwood crevice because they're like yeah, I guess you did you know, you did give us all our livelihoods. So he let them out. But he died in poverty in 1880. So it turns out that sexing is sexing and orchid doesn't necessarily lead to wealth and fame cooking issues.

Thanks for listening to this program on heritage Radio network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website, or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching heritage radio network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at Heritage radio network.org heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member visit our website today. Thanks for listening