Cooking Issues Transcript

Episode 127: William McGee


Hello, everybody, and welcome to a brand new series on heritage radio network called the culinary call sheet where we give a peek into the back kitchen of culinary media. I'm your host, April Jones,

and I'm your co host, Darren bresnitz. Part of why we started the show was to offer an unofficial mentorship for anyone who's interested in learning about all aspects of food and video, whether that's TV, social media online, or just something you want to do for fun.

Absolutely what was once niche or a little silly, as I'm sure you remember, Darren, when we started out, this man has now become such a massive playing field for so many creatives using food as the medium.

It's something that has driven us professionally and personally, for so many years. What excites me the most about this show is that we're going to sit down with some of the industry leaders to hear how they made it and what drew them into this industry.

With 20 years in the culinary production game ourselves. We're hoping we can give through these conversations an insider's view into personal stories from the field, as well as an in depth behind the scenes look into some of the most popular food programming. In today's evolving culinary media landscape.

We'll be covering everything from how to style your food, to how to license IP, to developing your own ideas, and some tips from the masters of how to host your own show.

Yeah, it's a little bit of conversation, how to and how do you do the things that you do in color media, which I'm so excited about? I love so many of the guests that are coming on this season. We have talent from Food Network from Vice media eater refinery 29,

we've met some of the best people in the world both in front of and behind the camera. And we're bringing them all together to share their stories, their delicious adventure and their unique journey into this crazy world.

So to be the first to hear our episodes when they launched this fall, go to wherever podcasts are streaming, and hit subscribe and make sure to give us a follow at the Culinary call sheet on Instagram.

This is Chris Young, co author of Modernist Cuisine, I'd like to invite you to check out chefsteps.com It's a free website we've created as a place to learn new cooking techniques and collaborate with curious cooks from around the world. Sign up now it chefsteps.com

You're listening to heritage radio network.org a nonprofit member supported radio station, where million strong with folks tuning in from over 200 countries. We are education we are entertainment, we are the future of food. May is our membership drive. Become a member and support us while receiving the newsletters advanced invites special discounts and a membership card. We need your support. Visit our website and click the donate button to become a member today. Thank you for believing in us and enjoy the show. Hello, and welcome

to cookie issues. This is Dave on your host of cookie cutters coming to you live from Roberta's pizzeria on the heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from roughly 12 to roughly 1245 Joining the studio today witness dosha hammer Lopez Jack and Joe in the engineering booth. How you doing guys?

Good man, I had to switch up the theme music this

week. Yeah, I noticed that but like it's like you know, you people. Not only is this Dasha like to keep me on her toes, but Jackie Jo in the engineering booth like to keep me on my toes because yeah, you're ready for one, you get the other and that's how life goes calling your questions to send 184972128 That's 718-497-2128 Before we get started, you know the audience you probably won't care but here's the studio you'll enjoy this. So guess why I was late today. I was actually slated to be on time today. Guess.

What wasn't the train because you wrote a bike? That's right. I don't know. Bike ticket. Oh, man. Really? Yeah,

they Oh, well, I was trying to so believe this or not, but you probably won't. Like I normally take a route that the bike the bike program on the computer tells me to go from my house to the studio. And there's one really unsafe intersection. So didn't attempt to go around not use that intersection. I went down and other place and went down like for like half a block, which is my maximum in Manhattan or Brooklyn, a one way street and the conflict and hit me with and they're getting smarter because they no longer hand out motor vehicle tickets to bikes which is what they used to do. So any biker could just go to court and say yo Jana was on a bike bike is not a motor vehicle sorry. And then like you know what I mean? Yeah, that was it, but they have a new kind of summons but here's where they get shit. I can't pay by mail. I have to physically go to court.

Well, you can go online and plead not guilty. You

know what, no, no, this is new kind of ticket to trying to shaft bikers and then actually having to go to court like none of us work or anything. Hey, look, I was breaking the traffic regulations like great Although it's a little bit of an insult to have a ticket for the privilege of riding these Brooklyn roads, as, as Neil Diamond would say which by the way, much as I don't hate Brooklyn the way and it's not hate I have I think Brooklyn fine. The worst roads that I have seen on the east coast of the United States. You agree with me, Jack? Yeah, I

do. Yeah,

I mean, especially in the bike lane, where we're forced to drive it's like imagine if amusement park rides weren't fun. Imagine like the biggest moguls you've ever seen skiing and those are that is Bushwick people that's what we that's what it's like,

I drive a car and I basically have to get new brakes every like, you know, six, seven months or something. It's yeah, yeah. And

all the cars trying to avoid the potholes and trying to bottom scrape their stuff out nothing more fun for them than to run into a biker who's trying to go next to them at you know in their in their normal spot. You know, I'm saying so I'm proud to have my money my ticket penalty money go towards supporting the awesome roads of Brooklyn. Alright, let's start off with hey, look my fault though, right? So yeah, man. At my usual trick of just you know, being extremely honest about what I was doing and nice to the officers didn't work on this one. These guys were there to hand out freegan tape gets Yeah, they're on an anti bike. The guy literally said if you want to break the law, get off the bike and walk across. I wouldn't have given you the ticket. I'm like what? Okay, there's not sure about biking. Okay, here are some questions in from before. Tom Fisher wrote in last week I tried making suevey Cremorne glaze using this method on your site that would be cooking issues.com Everything went fine until I tried to bag the mixture. It seems like the blending incorporated far too much air into the mix. And the first time I tried to bag the mix it quickly doubled in volume and made a huge mess before I could go on let me tell you what the procedure is right so people know what the hell I'm talking about. So when we make you know when you make your normal crema glaze, you're you're careful you stir you don't get me air into it you temporary the day goes by but when you're making it Suvi or low temp, what you do is you you throw I'll give you my recipe, you throw 10 egg yolks into a blender, you throw 170 grams of sugar in there, a little bit of salt, whatever flavorings you might want to add you don't have to add to things like vanilla later because they're going to be in a bag and they won't volatilize off. Then you're going to add 500 mils of milk and 500 mils of heavy cream. And actually what I do is I add the milk I don't add the cream in the blender Step Add the milk, turn on the blender on high blends it it does aerate it which is a source of the one of the sources of the problem with Tom's unglazed mixture here. And but it also breaks up the Eliza on the egg yolks so that you don't need to strain your criminal glaze after the two big advantages of well the three big advantages while some of the big advantages of doing criminal glaze, low temperature cvwd are one if you use the blender you don't need to strain it because one there's no Eliza in it and to when you're cooking low temp you're never going to curdle it so there's no little curdles of egg yolk that you need to strain out right. So you get rid of that whole straining nonsense. That's one big advantage. Two flavors are preserved very well in the bag and certain flavors like cinnamon. It's really easy to get that awesome kind of red hot cinnamon flavor you like red hot spices. Yeah, see something that she likes to see. I know the secret things that she likes like red hearts. So I could have won that porkchop whatever it is we gave away. Yeah. So so it gives you that red hot thing because the vacuum intensifies the extraction flavor out of spices like that cinnamon, and another advantage is extremely hygienic right because you don't need to pour it into something and then cool it very quickly. You can just take the bag, put the bag in ice water, chill it down, and three because you've killed all the vegetative cells in it when the cooking, right you haven't sterilized it so it's not safe, you know, not refrigerated but it lasts an extremely long time. So here's some of the benefits however. So what I do is I blend the milk, the egg yolks, the sugar, the salt, and maybe the flavoring. Then I add the cream and just put the blender on low to stir it to combine because you don't want to froth it up too much because it's stuff you have to get rid of later. Now to finish the rest of his question. So remember he has Tom was having problems it was blowing up and making a huge mess which is true right? Okay after cleaning Sorry, Tom that cleaning sucks cleaning cram on glaze. Make sure that at the bottom of your vacuum machine sucks really sucks. After cleaning, I moved the mix to a hotel pan and tried to de aerate it in a vacuum sealer. But even after many cycles that mix still had a frothy bubbly texture. It's true. I eventually bagged the ziplocks and circulated the mix and it came out fine. Where did I go wrong? Thanks Tom Fisher. Okay, here's a couple of things. One, cram on glaze bubbles like a weasel and there's just no way around that right if you are going to DRA in a pan beforehand, which I don't by the way, but if you are going to do it, you have to start with extremely thin mixtures in the hood. When I say thin thickness not like thin consistency. Have mixtures in the hotel pan like like a couple of milliliters and do it in four batches, then you can get a full rise, Bubble Pop, drop and boil out of a criminal glaze in a vacuum machine, not a heat boil. I don't want to hear anyone talk to me about heat blows not heat boil, it's just a vacuum boil. And you can do it. However, what I like what I normally do is I remove all of the plastic thing in the jig, like things that look like cutting boards, the spacers take them all out, do not use a bagging attachment This is worthless. In a normal like, like 10 or 12 inch wide vacuum bag, I guess 10 I think Tim only put half a liter of product into it or you know, like basically, if you make the litre batch with 10 egg yolks, 170 grams more than a liter half in each bag, right, put the bag over the edge of the vacuum machine and then cut a hole in between the seal bar and the edge of the machine to let the air come out. This way you have the maximum expansion room in the bag before the mixture starts boiling out all over the vacuum machine gives you the maximum space for it to inflate. Right, then drop the lid Oh, the other thing I'm sure your mix wasn't cold enough, it's vitally important that you use cold cold cold, egg yolks, cold cold, cold milk, cold, cold, cold cream. Sugar is never cold, usually unless you do your meals on plastic beforehand and throw it in the fridge for a while. But very few people do that unless you're working for demos. So sometimes when I'm doing demos, I'm fortunate enough to be able to have the sugar be cold like that. But you've already aerated it in the vacuum machine. So even though it's cold, it's going to want to boil over a lot. So what you do is you close it, and then you wait. Keep your finger on the stop button, keep your finger there, do not take your finger off, it's gonna start sucking a vacuum, right? And then all of a sudden is gonna start boiling up a little bit. And you're like, I'm okay, right? Okay, no problem. And then boom, it's gonna make a run for the border and start spraying up out of the bat at that instant right before the mixture hits the seal bar, boom, hit stop, boom, as soon as you hit Stop the car stops, seals it and stops any more of the egg mixture from coming out right now you haven't gotten rid of all of the air in there. So we will get some flotation in your in your bath, which is why you should wait it down and push it down. But it's good enough and it gets rid of and then the further cooking is going to pop the rest of those air bubbles. And so you do not have a frothy mixture when you're done. Right? You simply don't. Now, if you do pack your stuff in a zippy, right, I've noticed that it tends it cooks is fine. And you don't have as many problems with

you know with the overflow, like you say, but there are a couple of other unintended consequences. First, there's more, you're not getting hardly any air out from the blending step when you do it in a zippy so what you're going to have to do is let it sit for a while for the air to kind of like come to the surface and then kind of really get that air out in the Zippy before you cook one too. In side by side taste test I've noticed that Kremlin glaze knots with it's been put in a blender one and it's cooked in a zippy without using a vacuum has more of a cooked egg flavor more of a sulfurous cooked egg flavor than Chrome on glaze cooked in a vacuum bag. That's just been our experience. We've tasted it side by side. It's not that it's bad. It's that if you tasted it side by side you would always choose the one that in a vacuum bag. And was there another thing Oh last but not least, vacuum bags are extremely clean. Sorry. Zippers are extremely fragile at crema glaze temperatures and they feel really really flimsy now. This is going to dovetail into what John railroaded into us a couple of weeks ago, but I haven't had a chance to read yet. There's no safety issue as far as SC Johnson wax family company is concerned. But there is a possibility of structural failure. Okay, so there you have it now on to John riper who sent us the the awesome do chili filberts slab to filberts hazelnut right you like those suckers, right? They look like wood that kind of awesome. I'm going to talk about those more in depth. John sent me on a little bit of a native nutcache I want to kind of even though they're not native with a name like do chili how's it going to be native anyway but they're important but whatever their old their heritage varieties. But I became interested very recently in hickory nuts Shagbark shell bark hickory nuts and also butter nuts which is the white walnut, you know what I mean? Anyway, so interested in that stuff. You can't get butter nuts. This time of year anyone that had them is sold out and they supply is extremely rare because all the white walnut trees are dying because of love because they're dying from disease. It's kind of horrible story. But I do have some even though it's also very hard to get hickory nuts at this point. I'm getting some hickory nuts and so we'll test those we'll play around with some native nuts then we'll talk about it. Yeah, sure. You excited about hickory nuts. No. How could you not be excited like Hey guys, it's like it's like the hickory nut is supposed to be as good as the pecan like as good as the pecan. Like some people say even better than the pecan and yet nobody uses it anymore because it's more difficult to harvest and and more difficult to crack. It's like it's like you know, I've grown up my whole life thinking that southerners have a lock on native nuts that pecan being you know, fundamentally a gift from heaven. And here I find out later that US northerners also have a you know, a godlike gift from heaven nut, the shagbark hickory, and and I'm 42 freaking years old and I've never had one. Is there any justice in that? No, no, no, no, no, no. Okay, my iPad decided that it didn't want to work. Okay, there we go. So anyway, so John wrote in, not about the nuts, he said, I've been meaning to write the attached letter, he wrote it, he wrote in touch later, which I don't have here to St. John's. And ever since Dave shared their email about safe cooking was Ziploc bags a few weeks ago, in my experience, it's pretty rare for big corporations to go out on a limb over much of anything. So it's worth applauding when they do more useful, though, is the chance to throw some sponsor support your wave. So you hear that SC Johnson with they're not they don't listen, they don't know. They don't care. But I am glad that they did write us an email saying that zipties were okay to use. And I haven't gotten any pushback from that. Have we had any emails saying that we're bad people because of that? I mean, we've had emails saying we're bad people, but not because of that. Right. Right. Okay. Adam wrote in last week about gluten. Gluten, I liked that word. That word. Dave, Natasha, etc. Hey, guys, your excetera today? They're not they're not happy. They're they're glum in the other room. Okay. I've been thinking how gluten is composed of two separate protein types, gluten and Gliadin. And I think it's gluten glide and clean. And I wonder is it possible to make a wheat free? I like saying wheat with, like miracle. Wheat. Anyway, is it possible to make a wheat free loaf of bread that behave like regular wheat bread by combining flowers containing these separate gluten components? Wheat flour is typically 11 to 13% protein 80% of which is gluten and gluten is about a one to one ratio between gluten and Gliadin I guess you know, everything depends anyway. Can I duplicate these conditions without wheat flour, I've not been able to find a detailed list of flowers and they're gluten and Gliadin fractions. There are gluten free websites that list gluten containing grains since Gliadin is a primary issue in celiac disease. But these sites do not post hard numbers. I have not found references for a good source of lutein with this approach to constructing a loaf of bread work. For example, while rye flour contains gluten, PENTA sands, Pinto sands are five carbon sugars. You know, the polymers have five carbon sugars, okay? Penta sands are present that prevent the gluten from forming effectively. My alternative flour combinations have similar negative interactions. The bakery Network website www that the bakery network.com describes how to isolate gluten from flour and then separate the gluten and Gliadin by rinsing with alcohol. Perhaps an alternative approach would be to mix isolated gluten and into a domain of gluten enriched flour with the protein relax and reincorporate into a dough. Thanks for your thoughts, Adam. Okay. First of all, I mean, clearly this approach would not help. Clear this approach would not help if someone actually had celiac disease because they can't have the gluten regardless where it comes from, right.

But the question is, is there some source of just straight gluten in not not that i Not that I know of, and I wouldn't necessarily see the I wouldn't necessarily see the point of getting something as high in Gliadin. And then adding just continuing when you could just buy vital wheat gluten at the store, you know, and add the vital wheat gluten to your bread mix and increase the protein compound and as for Penta sands, but you know what penta, PENTA sands are interesting. I think you can add enzymes that break them or break them down somewhat. And I think there are some enzymes that break them down naturally to kind of reduce the viscosity over time, but they they seem to reduce the ability of gluten networks to form in two different ways. One, they actually interfere with the the interaction between the the polymers that are formed when you hydrate the gluten, right. And secondly, they increase the viscosity of the water matrix within it and therefore make it difficult, more difficult for the gluten to hydrate. So they have a two step thing they are actually inhibiting the formation of the network, you know, on a molecular level and increasing the viscosity making less of the water available to the gluten dehydrates. That's what dependent sounds are doing. Now my presumption is is that by doping up to a certain level with vital wheat gluten, which I used to do all the time and low protein flours just dope it with vital wheat gluten. You can ameliorate some of these effects, but I don't know that you're going to be able to make entirely wheat free ie from no wheat products including no wheat gluten stuff that has gluten in it. On a separate note, that's interesting. Penta sands, I don't read any human studies, but people are very worried about feeding high Penta sand grains to animals, because they can lower the feed conversion ratio. Because what happens is is the same thing that happens in the in the dough the pentose sands increase the viscosity happens in your gut because they don't get broken down right away and so this increased viscosity can lead to a lower absorption of certain nutrients in chickens for instance, that are fed grains high in Penta sands. If you want you can read the article increased small intestinal fermentation is partly responsible for the At a nutritive activity of non starch polysaccharides. And chickens, you can go read that, if that's the kind of crap you'd like to read, which I guess I am, I guess that's me. On a side note, I was looking through and I saw a Time magazine a couple of months ago came out with an article saying, you know how to check this. So you're gonna believe this 28% of people in the US said to the Time Magazine, people or something like close to 20% said that they were trying to reduce the amount of gluten in their diet and that crazy yeah, yeah. It's crazy. So what's happened is, is that the gluten free market has freaking exploded, like, it's like, it's a multi kajillion dollar industry. Because all of these people who are like, well, there's some people who are allergic to soy, maybe if I just don't have it, too, it's gonna be better for me, even though I'm not allergic to it, even though it does no harm to me at all, even though it does nothing but make my bread delicious. It made me organic. Yeah, but it makes no, it makes no Dang, it makes no damn sense. But you know what? Good. Here's two things good, good, good. Good. Like make a buck. You know what I mean? If you're gonna if you're gluten free, so like Piper who works with I'm going to call them out here. Piper, who works with us. He's the Booker and DAX lab manager there. He's been on the show once or twice, right? Sexual. Piper is celiac. He's legit. You know what I mean? Like, the man can't have gluten. In fact, he like muscled through it, like when he took his test at the French culinary and ate all the gluten got the huge rash and all this other stuff. And you know, the horrible problems, right? So he's legitimately gluten free. And so and there is a huge rise in actual cases, or so it's reported to me, of people, you know, with actual intolerance to gluten. And so if 28% of the people around there are sheep and believe is craziness that they should get rid of gluten too, even though it has no effect on him that say, God bless him because it means that there's more people pouring money into problems. They're going to help out actual people with problems like Piper right. Yeah, right. Yeah. Oh, speaking of gluten free flowers in Africa already talked about this in Africa, they have a type of millet called fonio that talk about this jack or Joe. Now that I can remember. Yeah, so there's an increased interest in kind of the last crops of Africa and there's a bunch of different reasons people are interested me taste right. People in Africa economics, three, I don't know, I guess those are the main ones right economics, economics, politics, ecology, you know, soil use the you know, and you know, taste and a lot of the you know, a crops that are originally from that area are different species of millet, millet is not a single type of grain in the way that you know, wheat is there a bunch of different grass families with small seeds that are called millet. And you know, they're they're combined character, their characteristic that they share is that they're all members of the grass family and that they all have extremely small seeds. So a lot of these are very high. And you know, the ones that they use the small millet, the large millet and this tiny, tiny, tiny one that's known in Senegal is fonio with an F are very high in proteins, but apparently not gluten and Gliadin so they can be consumed by Gluten Free Folk. Now fonio I had a loaf of bread in Senegal, that was composed bass that could just be lying, right could just be lying, but they said it was 80% fonio and only 20% wheat, but the texture was like 100% wheat bread. So maybe there's some good ideas there for gluten free people with fonio. If anyone has any experimentation that they can send in if they have experimented, I would love to hear about it. I hear that long fermentation times make for better millet based DOS, but I haven't done any research yet. I did bring some back but haven't had time to play with play with it. I've also heard that Thomas Keller's $15 A pound exclamation point exclamation point. gluten free flour is pretty good but I would bet not for bread a bit for pasta. That's what Mark Ladner uses a dough poster, right? He uses Thomas Keller's fantastically expensive flour. Yes. And he likes it right when I tasted it. Were you there when I was there? Yeah. Yeah, I tasted it was good. I mean, look, is it as good as the No, side by side? He gives you the one with the gluten and you're like that tasty. But like it was pretty good, right? Yeah. Yeah. I mean, it better because they cooked it better. Better than a lot of normal people's real, real gluten full pasta. That was right. Yeah. Oh my god. You hear how I put that sentence together? no damn sense. All right, Mark, gents. Should we take a break? Yeah, that's great. All right, let's go to our first commercial break cooking issues.

This is Chris Young, co author of Modernist Cuisine. Together with photographer Ryan, Matthew Smith and Chef grant Crilly. We've created something exciting and new@chefsteps.com each day in our kitchenette, Seattle's Pike Place Market. We're working on new recipes as well as updating classic ones that we love. And we're always looking for new techniques that make the impossible possible@chefsteps.com. We publish it all online with detailed step by step demonstrations, as well as explanations of the science that answers the why behind the how in the kitchen. And through our forum, you can engage with our team, as well as a friendly community of curious cooks from around the world. If you're interested in becoming a better cook, if you want more from the creative team behind Modernist Cuisine, and if like us you're a fan of Dave Arnold and cooking issues than we think there's a lot you'll like. And the best part chefsteps.com is entirely free to learn

I love that they say they're a fan of cooking issues and that

it's quite it's quite nice and then well you know, we had the we had the Chris Young last week on the show and were put in the awkward position of having to cut Chris Young off to play a Chris Young

first time it's ever happened yeah, as good

you know, you know who does there see here's what here's something you gotta like about the ChefSteps I mean, look, there are sponsors so you know, but still true. Here's the nice thing is that even the people who do you who does their web work who Michael napkin really Yeah, he does

their wedding soccer stuff that's what I was in touch with him and so

like you know, even the person like doing the web work is like a loud ID and loved food figure.

It's great you know what I'm saying? Good community you got Yeah, yeah. And you can have community can I do a quick pitch? Yes still membership drive me is almost over and if any listener becomes a member by the end of this show, I'm gonna go ahead and title the episode their name Oh, wow. Whoa, oh, so you know act now.

Now is this but this is like a real act now not like where you call in and you get five ShamWow for the price of one. I don't know. It's not like that. Okay. But

that's heritage radio network.org and click the donate button on the right side right there.

Can you put a ShamWow button there and we can sell ShamWow stuff that thing I wish I wish

I had you know if anyone's listening and wants to send us some ShamWow so we could use them over here

here's something I it's not mine to give to give or to say we should have a contest for it but there is an awesome pair of cow hair chaps in the studio that I've tried to steal like three times maybe that should be like a like a thing once I think

we should make shim whales that have the the logo the cooking issues logo on them. That'd be sweet. And then if you call in and become a member

you get some cooking issue Shahnawaz. Yeah, exactly. No, we Awesome. Well, back to the chest as per second. You know, I haven't really spent a lot of time hanging around with from ChefSteps is Grant. He's like, you know, Grant and Chris grant apparently huge badass, awesome guy. I mean, I met him a couple times at the wind modernist food was doing their like Tour de cuisine around the around the country in the Seattle but apparently just like a monster cook. That's what I hear anyway. Okay, by the way, still time to call any questions do 718-497-2128 us at 184972128 Mark Jensen writes in regarding eggs Mark Jensen here fork in the road mobile galley. I know I'm gonna have to have a galley kitchen in my next apartment. It's kind of depressing. I don't like you like galley kitchens. Okay. I mean because right now in my apartment and moving my postage it's good because each my kids are gonna have a room but my kitchen now is like kind of being it's kind of beat down at this point because been 10 years and have done anything to it. Like literally, but it's like sweet because you can fit eight people in my kitchen cooking and interacting and having fun without bumping butts. You know what I mean? Because I'm not worried. I'm not a commercial kitchen. That space isn't at a huge premium there. So I'm a little worried about how tight it's going to be the next time around. Waiting. Waiting stashes like don't care. Don't care. Okay. fork in the road. Mobile galley from Lexington, Kentucky. Here's a question Lexington I need to go back to Kentucky at some point. You know, I had a good time. I like Kentucky. I like bourbon. I like him. If you like bourbon you like and of course is there okay. Do you like horses? Yeah. But you like bourbon? You like ham? Yeah. So Kentucky

anyway, three yeses in a row. Yeah, right. Well, like Why

was she doing here? She hates everything here. Yeah, right. I don't think they have hipsters in. I didn't see any hipsters in Kentucky at all

they do and Louisville, for sure.

Okay, yes to public true. Yeah. Here's a question about uses for leftover eggs leftover 64 Celsius eggs. Now for those of you out there when you're doing low temperature cooking on eggs. 90% of the eggs that you're going to use are one of three temperatures 60 to 62 Celsius in an immersion circulator. If you cook a chicken egg of 62 Celsius, for 45 minutes to an hour, you're going to get like a classic eggs benedict egg in terms of the yolk and the outside is going to be custard. If you want to make it harder on the outside white, you can drag it through simmering water on the way to service okay, and you just cook it in the shell you crack it out and it cracks out beautifully. It's wonderful. It's amazing and life changing technique, yada yada 63 degrees Celsius right or anything really above 62 like 62 562 62 Somewhere in there. 63 you get what's called a creamy yolk where the yolk is creamy throughout but it's more like a sauce almost like thick on Glaser. custard really nice. I really like that for brought like soups where you don't want it to bleed out entirely, but you want to be able to mix it eventually as a fine sauce or in an aspect sometimes I like it we don't want to run out entirely 64 is really, really creamy but only sags a little bit now what I call it is just set. So those are the three temperatures that are going to comprise 90% of the eggs that you cook in an immersion circulator. All right, okay. All right, I often run my circulator my food truck for soft egg dishes, and everything was some leftovers in service never wanted to waste especially a delicious fresh local egg. I chilled them in an ice bath and using the next day as an ingredient in other dishes. So far, discarding the albumin and jet that you know the white and just using the yolk. I started with salad dressings, Caesars of course but as an emulsifier in, in almost anything, and I just went the next step and sub them in a monstrous cuisines Hollandaise recipe which we talked a little bit about last time. Instead of cooking the raw egg yolk bags and zippers and a circulator, I simply blended the cold 64 degrees C yolks with the vinegar reduction to make a great base for the butter to emulsify into. It's freaking fantastic. It works better than the original recipe. Take that pick that works better than the original recipe and the thick texture coming out of the ISI because they were shooting their holidays out of the ISI gun is fantastic. That's a good use my question first, I can't think of any dangers outside of temperature control in doing this can you know as long as the as long as you you know are using it with it's an RTE food right? So you treat it like any other RTE food where you've you know killed you know the pathogens in it and you know, use it accordingly. So if you let it sit out for a long time cold then you're shafted. You know what I mean? If you heat it up to temperatures that are going to be like if you put it in an ISI in a warm vein, and you keep it in that vein Murray at a temperature above the kill you know the kill point for you know, whatever you're interested in salmonella, Listeria, whatever, then you know, no, it's totally safe, so I can't think of any extra problems. Second, you must have have leftover low temp eggs from time to time. What do you like to do with them? Thanks. And please send me a Sears all ASAP. Okay, still thinking Sears on is the name to go with get it on versus off the showroom. Mark Jensen's fork in the road mobile galley, you know, I never I mean like usually what I've never done a whole bunch, like for service had 64 eggs, we would mostly run 60 twos for Benedict and 60 twos, you can honestly reuse the next day straight up, you know what I mean? Like you can because what we do is is we cook the 60 here, and you might be able to do this with a 63 or 64 as well. So we cook the 60 let's say 62, we cook the egg of 62 for an hour, and usually we over we overload the the thing. And so you know once it gets back up to temp, we give it like an hour an hour and 15 minutes, right. And then we drop the temperature to 57 at 57 Celsius, there's no creep at all, it's totally safe, right and there's no creep at all in in the egg yolk texture over the course of a whole service. You could take those same eggs, put them in, in cold water, whatever, put them in the fridge, bring them back up the next day, you know, so you then you click off your next day's eggs. And then you put a you know, after you click on when it's time to return, you throw the eggs from the previous day in when you when you had it 57 They come up to temp so they're warm enough to serve in about 20 minutes, and then you 30 And then you can and then you can use them you know obviously use them first, but you can use them like yesterday's eggs without I've never noticed a loss in quality unless you're rough with them and the whites can suffer a little bit now that's at 62. Once you get up to 63 and 64 and the white start to get more set. You might have a little bit of weirder whites on the second day, but you can try it. But I think your use of the egg yolk is awesome. I can't think of any I couldn't think of any uses for the whites. But someone will call in I mean you could always just crack them into a pot of boiling water. The thin whites will go away hard cook those suckers and then use them in an egg salad and everybody knows that everybody who's anybody likes an egg salad styles. Do you like an egg salad? Even stars like snakes our experiences egg salad delicious, Jack Joe Am I right on this? Yes, egg salad kinda love egg salad. It's really weird like it like theoretically you would think that me it's it's it's it's perceived as kind of like a low rent kind of thing, but it's really delicious. Like why would that be a low end thing? You like celery in your egg salad? Yeah, me too. I know some people don't like celery in their egg salad. I think they're wrong. Okay. Matea writes in about sushi and safety. Hi, David. Anastasia Jack and ready others. You like that Joe? Others. Okay. Thanks for a great show. We do a boo you give a boot you gave a little bit of though. You gotta have like the blue button. Need a blue button? That's true. We've got like a ghost or something. Yeah. Like did blueberry ever say a blue on air for blueberry cereal?

I'll go through YouTube and I'll pull one out.

Do you know blueberry? Contains fmdc blue one. I think it's one right? And we have a container of it. Maybe two. I can't remember. And if you eat enough of that you don't defecate blue, you defecate green? Did you know that?

No, but did you tell everybody about your serial puffer yet? Can we get to that before the show ends?

Yeah, why don't you want to be? Okay, so that's yeah, maybe I should talk about that talk about that at all? Not really. So it turns out in the olden days, when I say old and I mean old and or currently, they still use this machine in Mexico. Where's the other place? Possibly Poland or the third? Peru? Right. So when you want to make puff cereals, here's what you did. You took your grain, you tempered it out to I think around 12% 12 to 14%, moisture somewhere in there. Right? Tempering very important. I think you can do it with things other than grain, but that's mainly what they did. And then you put it in a sealed chamber, alright, and the sealed chamber has a porthole on it with a door that shuts down really tight. It's got a huge giant locking mechanism like a giant vise grip on it, then you spin it so that it keeps on spinning so that everything's even it's like a tumbler almost like a dryer. Right? Then you put a propane flame on it like a big blower like for for furnace. And you heat that sucker up until it gets up to like 170 or 180 psi, like 365 degrees Fahrenheit, something like that. And when it gets up to there, you stop it. And you're hit the lever with a lead pipe might be a steel pipe, but I'm hoping it's a lead pipe. Because that's food. That's food safe, right? You hit it and boom, the thing flies, boom, the pressure releases and the each individual grain just pus instantly into puffed wheat, puffed corn, puffed rice, puffed anything, right. And this is how puff cereal was originally made. And it was called a puffing gun. And that is that is why like, if any one of you remember the you know, I don't I was not born yet. But I used to listen to a comedian named Stan Freeburg from the 50s When I was growing up because my parents listened to him. And so you know, I'm familiar with all the old marketing terms because he was an ad guy. He's still alive. And in the old model used to be shot from guns because that's what they used to say about puff cereals. It was shot from guns because it legitimately was shot from puffing guns, they new have newer technology called continuous puffers that no longer work on this batch technology. And they're only used in countries that can't don't have the infrastructure to support moving the larger pieces of continuous buffing equipment around but they're still used and they're made by the Puritan Manufacturing Corporation of Omaha, Nebraska and the same way that they were made decades and decades and decades ago and the Museum of food and drink just received a couple of weeks ago our very own puffing gun I could not be more excited because I'm going to pump everything like anything you I'm going to pump the hell out of it they dried trip I'm gonna see if I can pump trip. I don't know if I can because it's protein not Carbo, whatever, I'm going to pump it up, you name it, I'm going to pump it like I'm going to take all these books or this bookshelf and try to pump these bookshelves. So this summer, if you're in New York City, late summer, because we have to build a truck and we have to make it food grade. We have to get our permitting and all that but look for the museum of food and drink to be hauling a puffing gun around as the first step towards our serial exhibit that we're going to have as the first exhibited Museum of food puts What do you think Jack and you know where it's being stored people putting guns being stored at the Heritage meat at the Heritage meat headquarters Heritage Foods

USA Heritage Foods USA

but yeah, because not only is heritage radio and heritage, heritage foods, heritage meats, a longtime supporter of the museum, but Patrick Martin is our founder is on the board

on the board. That's it. Okay, I've got great news was that William Magee just became a member. So that will be the title of today's episode. Yeah, yeah.

William again. William

Magee. Thanks, man

in the game. Nice. Thanks. Thanks. Thanks, William. I appreciate it. Okay. Mattia writes in about soothing and safety Hi zaev Anastasia Jack and others thanks for a great show. I was recommended your show by a friend and started trying catch up on your archive many hours of listening to do nano Baba does does like Yeah, really. To let you know how I am. I'm a computer electronic engineer and passion by cooking and I'm living in Sweden. A while back I started learning about Suvi cooking as I'm totally amazed by it specially cooking tough meats for long numbers of hours, 1024 72 hours. I would like to try to learn to cook most foods to eat especially all kinds of meat that benefit in both long time cooking and tender cuts. Obviously shorter times. I'm currently using the PolyScience create a circulator, which I think is great. I'm curious about the safety aspects. Where in the temperature zone is the actual danger zone or safe zones if you invert it is the so called danger zone between 3.3 Celsius and 54 degree four Celsius, or between 3.3 degrees Celsius and 60 degrees Celsius 60 That's 140 for you guys out there. 60s 140 always remember 60 Celsius 140 Fahrenheit. It's one of those magical numbers you need to remember Okay, at what temperature can I pass your eye safely and keep it there for long King? Does that temperature start at 55 degrees Celsius? Or do I need to move it up to 60 degrees Celsius? This is my main question. And which interval Shall I avoid? Especially cooking long hours? This is my second main question, though I'm aware that there are many other benefits to work in the 60 degrees plus domain for tough meats, as enzymes get more active, etc. Although they get the Well, I'm not going to give you that it would take too long. But I'm curious for a pure bacteria parasites killing perspective in this question, the reason for the question is that I find different resources that seem to be contradictory. And I'll reference them below I'm interested in knowing that I get a decent reduction of all normal pathogens and parasites, including Trigonella and cooking pork. What's the story behind the different statements 54.4 versus 60. And the references Douglas, Baldwin CITES, who usually has pretty good numbers, Thomas Keller's book under pressure at Thomas Keller's book under pressure specifically puts the danger zone at 4.4 to 60. So in other words, refrigeration temperature up to 140. And that's my main gripe with that book. Actually, that's just it's wrong, I think. And you know, I've heard discussions of it with people who are involved. And the issue is they didn't want to get into complicated. They didn't want to get into complicated discussions about temperature versus time. Yeah, that that was like that was like, the unfortunate part about that book is them saying that you shouldn't keep meats below 146 degrees Celsius for long periods of time, when everybody knows that cooking at 55 degrees Celsius for 72 hours is entirely safe and above 54, for for any length of time in meat and beef, any length of time, not ground beef for any length of time for a whole muscle cut over 54 for over 117 minutes. So 170 minutes and above a minimum of 117 minutes guarantee safety according to the old food codes. So so that thing, the under pressure numbers is like entirely strange thing. And kind of I think, like the weak spot of that book, the recipes, I think, seem to be pretty good, right? I mean, although I don't know, I haven't cooked a lot of them. Then subida looking at cuisine Technology website, it states the danger zone is between 4.4 and 60. But then they say the rule of thumb is a vegetative pathogen pathogen and parasite development and can grow only below 54 For which seems fair, compared to the Baldwin sites. And then it references an interesting a bunch of sites and say a bunch of a bunch of different things. I'm not going to go through each one of them, because they're all different. And most of this stuff, people are basically wrong. There's, you know, there's one site that he mentions, it's interesting called the Food Authority. What is it? It's something I have to look at it and call you out later. But it's basically saying that there needs to be more study, right? Which is absolutely true. Here's the real deal. Okay. 140 degrees, 60 degrees Celsius is the temperature at which most of the pathogens that we're interested in, are killed in very, very quick order, right. So that number is on the safety in the food safety thing. Anything below that is so does this danger zone, because they don't trust you to do accurate measurements at anything below that temperature. And if it hits that temperature, you're pretty much guaranteed to have wiped out anything. That's a problem, right? And that's why they choose those numbers. And because they assume that there's a lot higher contamination on ground meat, even though the pathogens of interest are the same on ground meat as on fresh meat, they put the ground meat numbers even higher, because they want to make sure that you rapidly kill everything on there. Right? Does that mean that in order to kill bacteria, you need to make it up to that temperature? Absolutely not. Okay. So most pathogens grow very well up to about 40 degrees Celsius, and somewhere between 40 and 50 degrees Celsius go into a static, no growth phase. All right. So anything above 50 degrees Celsius, so anything below 50, I don't trust as as a safety measure for cooking, for cooking things for killing bacteria. And in fact, I don't use anything below 54.4 Even though there are probably numbers that are below 54.4 degrees Celsius, that will kill most of the bacteria of interest that cooked long enough. I don't have any data that supports the thermal death times for bacteria at those temperatures. And so I don't recommend any procedures below that temperature for pasteurization purposes, okay? Because remember, the lower you go on a temperature just big. So there's two things you want to do when you're when you're heating something, you want to make it taste good. Three things you want to make it taste good. That's the most important thing from my standpoint, too. You want to prevent bacteria from growing, right. And you want to kill the bacteria that are present cooking over 50 You know, and definitely over 52 Celsius, which is Bruno who says number is going to prevent the pathogens there are bacteria that grow well above that temperature, there's bacteria to grow on thermal vents and 202 degree, you know, water but the path regions of interest aren't going to be growing above, it will take gooses, you know, nice, but you know, number 52, they're not going to be growing above that number, right? But the question is, how fast are you killing them, right. And so for the bacteria that are present that you're trying to kill, right, the lower the temperature above the beginning kill zone, the longer it takes. And I don't have curves that tell you how long to cook a piece of meat to pasteurize it when you're at 54, below 54.4. And so I don't give any numbers for below 54.4. So the the problem is that, you know, they write the codes, and this term safety zone Danger Zone is supposed to be like, kind of a boneheaded rule that we can all just follow. And we'll guarantee safety and it is if you follow that old, you know, you know, fridge up to 60 degrees Celsius 140 rule, yeah, you're gonna make safe products, because that's inherently safe. However, it's not nuanced enough. There are many products that are safe, they're cooked below that temperature, it's just a question of now you need to actually worry about being precise and need to worry about how long you cook something right. So it puts an extra variable in that the food code under its normal guises doesn't want to handle they'd much rather just have a cook with the 60. So would say kind of a thing. You know what I mean? Because remember, the regulatory boards out there, they're not they're not tasked with giving you as a cook. Everything that you want to make the products as delicious as you want them to do. Their only task is to ensure that food that is served to the public is safe. That's it, they don't care whether it's delicious, that's not their job, you know, I mean, I mean, yeah, okay, Was that helpful or no? Yes. Okay.

And Igor, where he writes in on carbonation dear Dave, I've been trying to apply carbonation to beverages for quite some time with poor results. I've tried the ISI soda siphon and got very poor carbonation even after using very cold water. That makes sense, it's, I'll tell you how to do it the minute various types of liquid shaking after each co2 Charge and leaving it in the fridge long enough to help further dissolution of co2 or dissolving of co2. In the meantime, I got a hold of a 300 grams co2 bottle and a beer regulator that I'm trying to connect with a soft drink bottle through a tire valve. See the photo, I'm still having poor results because there's a slight leak of co2 through the valve. There are no screws through the valve and I believe I've been searching around a lot and cannot manage the psi that I'm aiming for. But I'm working to find a kind of glue that will stick to the plastic and rubber and will tolerate high pressure. Hopefully we'll have it solved by tomorrow though, if you're aware of any simpler way of attaching a bottle to a regulator would really appreciate your advice going crazy on the product and I'm trying to work on a gin tonic made by cold infused quinine bark citric acid and sugar and gin. The flavor is more dirty than a g&t but nevertheless interesting and inspiring but your gin and juice that I had a few weeks ago on a trip to New York City. We'd like to serve it in champagne glass. My questions how do you manage to get such greatly thin and elegant bubbles I work on it? What psi temperature combination do you apply and how many recharges do you apply in order to get the right carbonation? And do you know the amount of co2 that you can get to dissolve per liter I've read that champagne holds about 12 grams per liter is this about right for the cocktail? What are the differences between carbonated soft drinks and other cocktails including alcohol and I understand it with alcohol you need more psi but how much any other tricks thanks so much in advance and excuse me for sending such a long email and ego weary Okay, first of all, so I looked at the picture, he's using a tire valve which is a Schrader valve that is being kind of bolted into the top of a regular PE T bottle. This technique goes back to about 2002 from the Grandmaster of carbonating and home, Richard J. Kinch, and I noticed that his technique was ripped off in a bunch of Instructables without of course without crediting him because people are D bags. So you know, I had already had at that point a professional, a professional carbonating rig at home because that's the only way I knew how to get carbonation at that point when he wrote it, but when I read his article on home carbonation it was before I had the carburetor cast, which is how I do it. Now essentially, his technique is a homemade version of the carbonated capsule by liquid bread, I highly recommend that you purchase a liquid bread carbonator cap and the bottle in bag, syrup, not the bottle and bag the the premix ball lock valves that go with it. They are they're very cheap that you can get the cap for 15 bucks at any Homebrew Supply online and you can get the rest of the stuff which goes right on your hose with no leaks and a hose clamp for about three bucks. And with that you can turn any soda bottle into a really great carbonation thing. Aside from the leak, which may or may not be the problem when you're carbonating straight water you're going to want to be about 35 psi. When you're carbonating a cocktail like a gin and tonic you're going to want to shoot for about 14% alcohol and about 45 psi. When you're carbonating water you're going to want it to be maybe 4035 to 40 You're going to want it to be at zero degrees Celsius. There should be chunks of ice in it. It should be cold. Remember it's going to heat as you carbonate it and it's going to get warm because As you're not feeling it while you're doing it too, when you're carbonating a cocktail, you're gonna want it to be about 22 degrees Fahrenheit when you're working, that's the number where you want 2223 at about 14%. That's the number and you're going to want to go 45. The reason you more carbonation is because alcohol absorbs more co2. So to have the effect of co2 on you, you're going to need to have higher pressure. The other thing you're going to need to do is get rid of the airspace when you're carbonating. It's a classic thing. That's the reason you got bad carbonation in your in your isI was the ISI is very difficult, especially if he's a soda siphon, you can actually get better carbonation results out of using a regular whipped cream maker than you cannot have the soda one because at least you can purge the headspace. If you're using an ISI and you want to get a good result you throw in and get very cold. You can even keep ice in the ISI. You put one charger and you shake it a little bit you foam it all off instantly to get rid of all of the bubbles and nucleation sites that are in the thing and to purge the headspace of oxygen and nitrogen whatever else then you throw in your second charge or shake it let it sit then it will be carbonated if you release it slowly. When you're doing in a bottle you need to squeeze out all the headspace which is why soda bottles are so great. Get rid of all that air in the headspace only fill it about three quarters full, close it carbonated once, let it form off getting rid of nucleation sites carbonated again, throw it off again get rid of more nucleation sites carbonated a third time by the third time we should let it sit in the in the freezer for a little while to mellow out. Then you can uncap it very carefully and pour it and you should be good. The other problem you're having with that valve is unless you shut off the gas you're opening up the gas when it's under pressure. It's gonna make a mess everywhere but anyway, so go get the carburetor cap. Make sure that everyone gives high praises to Richard J cash. The granddaddy of the carbonation cap, right. Lastly, they're gonna kick me off here in a minute. But lastly Pauline writes out from Alaska. I'm a huge fan of your show while potting up some starts for the garden. I heard you discuss ways to screw up immersion blender male and suggest my solution. A wide mouth pint mason jar works for me. I also have a question a topic rather, I was hoping that you might pontificate a bit on smoking salmon and other fish I live in in the interior of Alaska where they have awesome fish and make annual pilgrimage to dip net the yearly quota for various salmon species. This is one of the greatest things about living in Alaska. I fillet some cut some into steaks for near immediate consumption leave a few a few hole for extravagant harvest parties and smoke slash dry the rest. Not like that pallid, pasty stuff shaved that they sell in the store. Our smoked salmon should be almost jerky like and full of smoky, slightly salty, sweet flavor. I love smoked salmon. I love smoked salmon and want to do better learn more, etc. So I'd like to hear what you might suggest, including ways you'd like to use this fish candy. Okay, first of all, just so you know, like that, like, I'm sure most of our listeners know that like, you know, there's salmon. There's Atlantic salmon, right. And then there's Pacific salmon. And they're not the same species. And in the Pacific salmon, there's a bunch of different species that they get up there in Alaska, they get the turnips slash the king, which is the highest in fact content. The sockeye, which is you know, also known as the Red which doesn't have quite as much fat but has a real kind of punchy salmon flavors. A lot of people like it, the coho, which is also kind of high in fat. And then the chum which is lower in the pink, which loaded up bad. There's lower in fat, and everyone wants to super high fat salmons both because of the Omega bull crap, but also because they like the luscious flavor of fat. And if you're smoking actually high fat is nice, because the Fed is going to pick up more on the smoke. Okay, so. So here's what I'm assuming you first of all, that the stuff that you're saying is pale, pasty che stuff in the supermarket, I agree, smoked, most smoked salmon that you get in the supermarket, when it's vacuum packed is wretched. But the same style of salmon, ie not the salmon, you're talking about the same style of salmon is incredibly delicious. When you get someone to cut it hand cut it off of the whole filet and you eat it after it's never been vacuum packed and allowed to get all mushy and nasty, I can attest they are not even the same product. You know, I don't know who sells it in Alaska. But when you go to New York, go to buy Russ and daughters and have them hand slice you some of their some of their, their salmon. It's incredibly delicious. But so the procedure that you're using in Alaska, I'm assuming is you do an initial brine, the initial Brian is going to kill some of the doors is going to prevent some of the bacteria from growing, it's going to be a kind of a curing step, then you're going to air dry it, then you're gonna equalize it, or you're going to equalize it rather than you get air dry. And then you're going to smoke it. I'm assuming you're talking cold smoking, actually, you know, to hear that I did a bunch of bunch of research on on the kind of safety and I guess we'll talk about next time cuz I'm told I'm gonna have to leave now. Should I talk about it more in depth next time, or trying to go live time? Next time? Next time? All right, well on Well, Pauline, I'm going to talk more about it next time. It's a really interesting subject, especially safety. There's a couple of references I want to give you. They're cutting me off here. But guess what? The New York Times came up with a thing saying if you don't have high blood pressure, you shouldn't worry about your sodium intake and not that I believe that study more than any other because I'm very skeptical, but you did say that for a while. Oh, you told you cooking issues.

Another shout out to William Magee thanks for becoming a member man. Couldn't get you. Thanks for listening to this program on heritage Radio network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website, or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching heritage radio network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at Heritage radio network.org heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member visit our website today. Thanks for listening