Cooking Issues Transcript

Episode 104: Turkey Issues


Hello, everybody, and welcome to a brand new series on heritage radio network called the culinary call sheet where we give a peek into the back kitchen of culinary media. I'm your host, April Jones,

and I'm your co host, Darren bresnitz. Part of why we started the show was to offer an unofficial mentorship for anyone who's interested in learning about all aspects of food and video, whether that's TV, social media online, or just something you want to do for fun.

Absolutely what was once niche or a little silly, as I'm sure you remember, Darren, when we started out, this man has now become such a massive playing field for so many creatives using food as the medium.

It's something that has driven us professionally and personally, for so many years. What excites me the most about this show is that we're going to sit down with some of the industry leaders to hear how they made it and what drew them into this industry.

With 20 years in the culinary production game ourselves. We're hoping we can give through these conversations an insider's view into personal stories from the field, as well as an in depth behind the scenes look into some of the most popular food programming. In today's evolving culinary media landscape.

We'll be covering everything from how to style your food, to how to license IP, to developing your own ideas, and some tips from the masters of how to host your own show.

Yeah, it's a little bit of conversation, how to and how do you do the things that you do in color media, which I'm so excited about? I love so many of the guests that are coming on this season. We have talent from Food Network from Vice media eater refinery 29,

we've met some of the best people in the world both in front of and behind the camera. And we're bringing them all together to share their stories, their delicious adventure and their unique journey into this crazy world.

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Today's program is brought to you by 360 cookware American made green manufactured cookware using vapor technology. For more information visit 360 cookware.com You are listening to heritage Radio Network broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn, if you like this program visit heritage radio network.org for 1000s more. Zeus

Tuesday Tuesday Tuesday, cooking issues on heritage red you'll never get Roberta's visa in Bushwick Brooklyn. Calling on questions live to send 184972128 That's somebody for 972128 Hey Jake, would you come by the intro?

Sorry, it really got you jazzed up Ah. Yeah. Like,

what's awesome is how different the two songs are. We got to like swap them back and forth.

We'll see I'm thinking the first one the kind of interpolation we can use that on the break it's kind of a jazzier calmer break song. Yes. Yeah, I think so.

Do you think I blasted out the VU meter over there? Am I okay with you? Sure.

You did. We went red.

went red. That's my next band that wrote that. You did that? That was Joe Gatto. Right? Yes, it was. All right. I probably mispronounced name like I mispronounced everyone's name. If I didn't have my own name, I'd mispronounce my name. Right. So first names. I do have two first names, although I tend to forget it since my last name has been my last name since as long as I can remember. joined as usual with Natasha hammer Lopez, but also today, her sister the mini hammer. Who just recently started attending the Yale University. My old alma mater. She didn't take a mic. She said, I don't know. She's like, takes a sister thing. They're both thing here on computers. Crazy. Crazy. And Jack and Joe in the engineering room. Hey, how do you call your questions live to send 184972128 That's 784-972-1288 Is the Thanksgiving edition of cooking issues and styles. What are you doing for Thanksgiving? A

bunch of people coming over?

Yeah, like how many? And what kind of wine are they gonna bring?

That those people aren't coming Saturday.

Oh, who's coming? Who's coming for the for the real Thanksgiving? A bunch of people that don't have families. Okay, here's the thing if you want to get invited to moustaches apartment for the Thanksgiving, or for any event, just a guarantee that you will a be late. Eat and be if you are going to bring something, make sure that you get Anastasia to buy all the ingredients and cook it by messing up her kitchen. And or bring any 1.5 liter $5 bottle of wine. Right isn't what it takes to qualify to be one of your friends.

They've started bringing water. No way. I don't

like Palm Springs.

Like I don't feel like drinking tonight. So I bought water. And then they drink. Who cares what they feel like doing? Yeah, exactly. I want to drink.

People, people I assume anyone listening to this program is a cook or likes to cook anyway and has some sense of what it means to be a proper host. Like for me, the worst thing that could ever happen to me much worse than, like, accidentally like having the building fall down and me being naked in front of a bunch of people. Which is horrible. But like, like much worse than that or worse. Even then I kept trying to imagine something worse. But like running out of food at a dinner party, I would rather die than run out of food. I mean, it's like the worst thing. You know what I mean? I was raised it like that, then that just means that you're low quality. As a person. You don't mean it's not that they ate too much. Is that your opinion? Weak. Right? So anyways, and as a guest showing up empty handed. The only thing worse than showing up empty handed would be showing up with a bottle of water. But if you don't want to drink and you're going to someone's house if you're not a drinker fine. Bring a dessert. Bring a cake. cheese cheese Yeah, if you're gluten intolerant bring cheese if you're lactose intolerant bring a cake if you're both I have to think harder. You want to mean but bring something for Christ's sakes bring a gift bring jewelry bring bring a book bring anything show up every headshot we water just say I don't want to come if you don't want to go to the person's house, right? It was too much of an investment to spend you know 1520 bucks a bottle you know on a bottle of good wine. They just don't go just say no live. I enjoy your company but I want to wing some water a crap on you. Then staying clean the whole God dang thing. People Where do people come from? I don't know the hell's wrong with people. Happy Thanksgiving. Okay, we got this question in from Alex in Florida about bitters. Dear Jack David Natasha two. I've been curious recently about making my own bitters at the bar. Do you use a traditional Angostura slash Peychaud's? Or do you have a recipe of your own? I want something that would make a brand do fashion really pop? And maybe another interesting flavor of while I'm concocting? What's the ideal proof to start with? And how long do you age for ideal flavor extraction, extraction and wouldn't isI whip or be able to speed up the process? Or just throw the flavors off balance? Thanks unhealthier show Alex from Florida. All right. Well, look. No we do not make our own bitters at at the bar. We use anchor stores and pesos. Just a little note to ID test patients bitters. I think they taste like cough syrup. I will tolerate them in traditional drinks like Sazerac, but I just I'm not I'm not a fan. In fact, at the bar, we didn't serve the customers because it's illegal. But I prefer to use actual roba tussen to mix with. So we were doing like, we were doing Sasser axes or drinks that we were calling. We call them Robo sack actually was the thing and then when we flamed it with the red hot poker, in an homage to the Simpsons, we were calling it the flaming Moser rack. But anyways, so not a huge patience fan. But if you want to make your own bitters, first of all, I recommend that to get a ballpark what you're doing go out and purchase bitters, a spirited history of a classic cure all with cocktails, recipes, and formulas by Brad Thomas Parsons. You know, go ahead and read that. That's the book on bitters. He actually comes to the bar. He's a nice guy. Good book. And, you know, don't I couldn't look at my copy. Because I have it at the bar for our bartenders to use as a reference. I couldn't look at my copy this morning. But go take a look at that one hit mostly most of his recipes are a little bit low on proof. Angostura when it's finished, starts at 45. I mean, is it 45% alcohol by volume, if that gives you kind of a ballpark? The higher alcohol you anything that you do, when you're making a bitters is going to change it, it's not going to make it necessarily better or worse, but it's going to change it. So Brad usually does a two part extraction right where he'll do an initial extraction into pure ethanol. And then not pure Sorry, sorry, into like liquor like 100 100 and 100 101, some of the some of the medium proof bourbon or spirit, then he will take the solids out of it, then receive those solids and water at a high temperature boiling, so he'll do a room temperature, infusion into liquor for a week, two weeks, a couple days, whatever depends on the product. Then take the solids out, boil them with water, reduce that add that back to the alcohols to do a two part infusion. If you do isI it's going to change it that there's some people on the internet use very high proof alcohol and extract for less amount of time. And none of these things is going to make anything better or worse. If using an ISI bottle, which is a technique I developed a while ago for infusing very rapidly. That's going to change the infusion. What it's going to do is anytime you do a rapid infusion technique at low temperature like ISI or any form of pressure, it's going to typically extract value little notes more than it's going to extract the deeper, baser, more bitter notes. So if you're going to do a coffee infusion with isI rapidly, it's going to extract more of the coffee aroma and less of the inherent bitterness, very long term extractions and high proof ethanol are going to extract a lot of the stuff including all of the bitters. So it all depends on how you want to extract in which flavors you want to pull out, if you extracted a lower proof, the flavor balance will be different if you extract for the same amount of time at a higher proof or longer is shorter at a higher proof. So the short answer is, there's no answer. One thing I will say is a lot of people where they really mess up is they changed the amount of liquor that they use to their product, or they use low quality or important products. So if you're sourcing a really crappy gentleman, for example, or a really crappy or Old Spice, you're never going to get the same amount of flavor, even if you ramp up the quantity than you would if you did if you got a higher quality product or a fresher product. Similarly, if you were to just say, Listen, I want to do it faster. So I'm going to add twice as much Jante. And let's say to something, or if you're doing I don't know June or something or US router, so you've got to add twice as much, right? That doesn't make it twice as strong or the same amount of strength and half the time, it changes the flavor. But again, it doesn't make it any better, or any worse. But as a ballpark for a more traditional bitters kind of a flavor. Go look at go look at that book, bitters. And then if you want to try something that's maybe less on the deep notes, but has a lot of more of the aromatic notes, and you want to do something quickly, try doing the ISI infusion, when you're starting do individual infusions of the flavors to see how they mix so that you can mix them then see whether or not if you combine them at the same time you get the same extraction, a similar extraction could you probably won't, adding different spices is going to change the overall concentration relative to the liquid, the alcohol present might change the flavors and the way they melt. It's a very complicated, that kind of thing. And so you have to practice but once but make sure when you're doing it that you keep extremely accurate copious records of exactly what you did so that you can reproduce it the worst thing in the world is to come up with something that's delicious, and then you can't reproduce it. I hate that. Hate it. absolutely hate it. Well, I had one more note, but I forget what it is. I don't know. Couldn't have been needed probably was extremely important. Probably the most important thing that I was gonna say like the rest of its just fluff compared to the one thing I was about to say, but it's gone. It's out of my head. It's history. Sorry about that. Anyway. Okay.

Moving on. Read writes in cooking low temperature pork shakes. I've been giving me some issues. I've done them twice now at the same results. Funk not funk in a good way see funk. Like a long long time ago, funk just meant kinda like smelly, like behind smelly smelly stuff like funk. It's a nasty funk. And then funk became kind of a good thing. Kind of like James Brown funk and I think funk is bad to be back to being a bad thing. That's when it's cooking funk is bad, right? You pro functor antifungal. anti anti Yeah, okay. Funk. The first time although there's a town in Nebraska called funk. Did you know that funk, Nebraska, there's the university the university of funk? Yeah, I mean, like I don't understand why everyone in the world if I had known about it, when I was applying to school, I was saying crap on Yale, I'd be going to the University of funk. But anyway, the first time my funky my funky funky Shanks were cooked with an Asian style marinade no dip at 85 degrees or no dip at 85 degrees Celsius, meaning dipping them first 85 degrees Celsius to kill the bacteria on the outside so there's no dip and they went into a water bath 60 degrees Celsius for approximately 48 hours. The second time was with no marinade and a three minute dip 85 degrees Celsius into a bath at 60 degrees Celsius for about 48 hours. All the pork Shanks were cooked with the full skin on note interesting though. Change rate change to different variables right. Change the marinade and the dip so we don't have as we don't have marinade plus dip, whether or not that equals funk. Right? Okay, anyway, all the pork Shanks, we also I don't know for instance, whether or not both had the exact same kind of funk because there's there's various kinds of funk there's kind of bacterial funk, which usually gives kind of a cheesy, almost sauerkraut or blue cheese or definite off note that's usually caused by lactobacillus that are growing in your bag either due to not heating it up fast enough having some contamination well that's what's due to it having some contamination not heating up fast enough to kill them before they can produce their nasty aromas. But secondly, certain meats can have a certain kind of funk so for instance, dry aged meats have a certain kind of funk and also if you've ever made if any of you out there have never made a pure pork stocks that is going to be the pure pork stock like without a lot of browning flavors in it without a lot of everything it used to like if you just like cook straight like pork with like no skimming of the stock beforehand all the bones sometimes you get like that weird kind of I don't know how to describe it Porky aroma, anyone in the studio know what the heck I'm talking about. Yeah, I've had enough pork. Yeah, you know what I'm talking about like that, that pork uncovered by any sort of my art flavor and also kind of without any flashing off of the volatiles and kind of know removing can have this kind of like Porky skinny, kind of like, you know, when you when you make a very strong gelatin solution, you get some of that kind of like weird that aroma. So I don't know whether that's what you're describing as funk in which case that one That's a separate issue, but we're going to assume on bacteria that we're dealing with anyway, all the pork Shanks were cooked with the full skin on my question is what is causing the funk? I would have thought that the 85 degrees C, which is very high in Fahrenheit, land free Fahrenheit folk dip for three minutes would have taken care of any surface issues do I need to skin them, and is the temperature just too low. I've also cooked some at 85 degrees Celsius for 12 hours with no issues, except being overcooked for my tastes. Think of trying 75 degrees C for approximately 12 hours. The next time, I've had great success with lamb shanks at 62 degrees for 48 hours. So I'd appreciate any insights you might have on this. PS, my wife and I will be taking trek trekking off to the European Union a week after Thanksgiving, and we'll be in New York on the 28th and 29th. Before we leave, our plans are to stop by and have lunch at sambar. And then at Booker and DAX for lunch and cocktails. We also have reservations for WD 50. That evening, read listen read. Booker, and DAX is not open till six, does not open till six, I'm sure Wiley will let you come get a cocktail at Booker and DAX at six, before you go off to WD 50. Or after you go to WD 50 Come by Booker and DAX national cocktails. But we don't open the bar until six. I will also say this not to shortchange your ability to come to my bar and have drinks. But WD 50 also has an extremely interesting bar program. And I really am a big fan of their cocktails. And it's my feeling that in general, restaurants don't get enough play for their bar programs. For some reason, cocktail writers tend to overlook restaurants when they look at their cocktails. When they look at interesting cocktails, they tend to focus solely on standalone bars. And it's stupid, it's dumb, because restaurants have what's interesting about restaurants is they typically have a large back of house system, and often in really good restaurants, chefs and bartenders will talk to each other and communicate. And the bartender will have access to some interesting ingredients from the back of the house that they wouldn't ordinarily have in a normal bar. So check out the cocktails when you're at the WD 50. Okay, back to your funky question. I don't know it'd be interesting to see if you did the marinade, because as you'll see later if I get to it, some marinates have antibacterial effects, I'm assuming that's what's causing it is not just kind of the natural inherent pork Enos that you're talking about. I'm assuming what's causing it is a bacteria and the only explanation I could have is that your bags got crowded. And that even with the sea, with the high sea dip, you may be spicy, you know what I mean? Hydrate, high temperature dip, that there were parts of the bag that got back to really contaminated, whether it was from getting stabbed with a knife, whether it's from bags being packed closely together, or if you had multiple portions with sauce in them inside of a single bag, and then that part couldn't be penetrated by the by the hot water when you were doing your dip. And one of those things must be the cause because it's the only time I've ever had funkiness happen and it's 60 degrees Celsius, you should not have any sort of funkiness not definitely 75 degrees C if there's a bacterial problem, the penetration is going to be fast enough to kill anything and stop the stop it from going going south on you. But I would think the 60 degrees Celsius is also hot enough to have that happen unless they were really tightly packed. In which case I would really make sure that your packs are very very far separated in your bath to make sure that you're getting adequate circulation around because usually it's lack of circulation in the bath. That's the problem or a very large large large thing it's probably on this by the way. I have to say a little bit hang on to cook my my turkey this year. I couldn't your turkey stars. I don't know yet. Like your what does your mom do? just throws it in an oven at like one degree. what's your what's the technique from your at your house? She

wakes up at six? What's the turkey for eight hours?

Yeah. turkey jerky. How is it as your mom says? Don't worry, you're not gonna listen. How is it? It's all right. That's the that's the thing. All right. Yeah, yeah. All right, Jake. You slather that sucker in great hands. Right. Right. Is that what goes on? Jack Jack and Joe How about you guys still over there? What are your turkeys? Like?

My mom's process is pretty similar to anastasius. Yeah.

So good for sandwiches, but not so good on day one. Yeah. Lots of gravy is necessary. Yeah. Yeah. All right. Well, listen. Normally for the past several years, I think what are the three years we've been doing this stuff? I've been doing my like bionic turkey. Where are you completely bone a turkey inside out. Then you make like an aluminum hollow pseudo skeleton. And then you pump hot oil and butter through the pseudo skeleton after you've brined it that you pump the turkey up with an artificial aluminum foil kind of carcass and then you pump hot butter through it to cook it from the inside out and then finish it in butter. And then do a flash fry on the outside to crisp up the skin. And if I do say so myself. It's a delicious, delicious turkey. It's a good it's a delicious burger. Hey. Oh, but so here's the thing though, like my stepfather. Although the only things he likes are wine and fishing and cigars and I guess third like my family like the fourth or whatever it is. I think we're I think we make it the fourth. Like is there the dogs or maybe just below or just above us or below me anyway So he hates anything that's a big, big Michiga you know what I mean? He's like a big jump out there as he says. So, you know, I fried my first turkey at my mom's house and like a little oil spilled on the line and killed a patch of grass, which no one has walked on and 22 years, and yet I heard about it. David destroyed the lawn. He went to his bedroom, right? He went to his bedroom and fell asleep. I ruined all of thanksgiving. All of it totally ruined. And then next year, my mom's like, Hey, Dave, are two years because I alternate with my in laws, right? Hey, Dave fry the turkey again, but didn't tell Jordan my stepfather. I was like, if you told her that we're gonna fry the turkey again and she like ain't no problem. No problem. So she doesn't talk like that. She's a she's a world renowned doctor. Anyway. So we we I bring it Gerard doesn't know we're gonna fry the turkey also a world renowned doctor doesn't know we're gonna fry the turkey again immediately even before we start cooking goes upstairs and falls asleep. I didn't want to kill the grass so I did it on the flagstone and I got oil on the flagstone and so he went out and was one of those sub freezing Thanksgivings you know back before global warming and he starts and he starts hosing down the deck which starts freezing over to try and get the thing off so the two Thanksgivings ruined so I'm not bringing the robo Turkey last year I brought the robot Turkey cooked it at my house and brought a pre cooked Robo Turkey to the to the house but you know what this one I'm just gonna crap on it. I'm not going to do it but here's my technique that I'm going to try to do that you guys can maybe do for the fast Turkey ready for this? Right this is a variant on what I used to do back in the old days. The way I would cook a turkey is I would bone the whole turkey out completely bone it like you would a chicken you can look at Jackie Jackie peeps, that's French for Jack Papan Jackie peeps has a recipe for it in chicken. So unroll the bone it, stuffed it with stuffing, tie it back together as a roll and cook it really quickly cooks very, very quickly right now remember, you don't want to start store stuffing in a turkey because you can get all sorts of bacterial contamination that then isn't destroyed by heat. You know you can make your family sick all this blah, blah, blah. Go look it up. If you don't believe me anyway, it's a bad idea. But here's what I'm going to do this year. I don't want to break the turkey. In other words, I'm not going to I'm not going to bone it by cutting down the skin on the back and totally unfolding it like I normally would. I'm going to inside out until my mom has said I'm going to Inside Out boning donut like I would for a robo Turkey right now. Here's the baller move. I'm going up my mom's stuffing is great. I don't care what you think your mom you think your mom's stuffing is good or crap on your mom's stuff. And my mom and my sister everyone likes their own mom's stuff. You like your mom's stuffing stuff? Yeah, yeah. No matter what, no matter how overcooked your normal bird is. Everyone loves their parents stuffing right Jack Joe? Yes, yes. Okay, so I'm going to take my mom's stuffing I'm not even going to touch I'm gonna let her make it I'm not going to sit there and be like, hey Maya more sage as by the way parents don't use Sage they use poultry seasoning because I grew up in like the 50s and 60s so they use that stuff just called poultry seasoning anyway. So we're gonna make the stuffing mix. I'm gonna heat that sucker up in the oven until it's done. Mix it with a little bit of gravy done right hot hot like hell. Now remember, I cook a lot so my hands completely impervious to heat. I was teaching at the French culinary the other day and I was had someone infusing something in a bottle in his stove. And I was like pick it out of the ticket out of the pan and I can't too hot so I just reach over, picked it up and held it for a couple of minutes while I was talking to prove that they was a chump anyway, so like it's just because I have no feeling it's really a stupid trick because you have no feeling in your hand anyway. So now she says I have no feelings in general. She says I'm a monster. And not in a good way not like when I say someone's a monster, it means they're good at something like when she says it's a monster she means like they should be relegated to a pit with wailing and gnashing of teeth if you read the Bible, so anywho so I'm going to take this hot stuffing and I'm going to I'm going to take my inside out burnt bird and instead of using aluminum foil, I'm going to shove like boiling hot stuffing into the bird so it starts cooking from the inside out so the stuffing is already above that cooked him so the stuffing is actually going to act like a heater and then throw it into a hot oven. And that Turkey is going to be done lickety freakin split and it's also going to be Brian beforehand so it's not gonna be cooked so that's gonna be my turkey this year. What do you think? Good take pictures. Take pictures. You know, I won't. I'll try I'll try but anyway so that's what I'm going to do for this year's bird. Oh, by the way, guys. Okay, so we had the CNN in for a while before the before the hurricane and they're doing a half a half hour thing

those a

expos. Oh yeah, hopefully no don't Don't worry folks. There's no exposing of me thank Christ. So anyway, so like the it's a show called The next list the next list what am I so someday I'll be the now list but anyway, but like what are the next list? And so anyway, so that's gonna be on on the What's it called? CNN, CNN on Sunday, but on Sunday at 2pm Eastern Eastern Standard Time. Well, it's when the show is aired What do you want out of me? So apparently they're very promos, but please watch it and tell it and somehow I don't know where to please watch it email. Let us know Yeah, email let us know. Let us know what you think. I'm super happy. excited that they decided to do the same exact looks like yeah, oh, Jackson. Moustache have managed somehow to be sick or cooking a chicken every time that they were like, by the way the new quotes mark and my thing. Are you on camera? No, because it's literally like you think this dash is fake? Ace is buried in her computer normally she like took and built like a cardboard. You know what dogs were when they when they're when they bite themselves and you put the cone on their head to stop them from biting themselves you guys know what I'm talking about? She like put one of those around her head and then like tape that to her computer monitor so that no one would ask her any questions I think even though they were with us for hours and hours and hours like not once didn't establish a peep on the dang thing just so she could maintain the the fiction amongst people that like somehow I'm always yelling at her and she never gives back sass. Doesn't this I should not give back sass. Oh, yeah. Okay. Or at least as her sister and mortal mortal terror not saying anything. Okay. Joel Gargano wrote in from the famous song you just heard before he says I know I write an often I know but this is for good reason. This is regarding the song. A while back, Dave asked people to create an intro song for the show. This is my original song that I allow you to play without threatening you with legal action. I recorded all of my basement next to the furnace punks. Enjoy. It's a hardcore punk version. That is certainly a hoot. Hope to hear it next week or soon. It's only 40 seconds. The ending is a good lead in for days calling your questions to cooking issues. And that's why how I used it. I thought I used it. Well,

I will say though. Yeah, Mr. Gargano did not remember the number.

No, but Dave was supposed to say it. I

didn't say it afterwards, but he didn't say it and I thought it'd be better to get the monster truck rally voice in I don't know. Think I was wrong. Shusha Naga monster truck I

think you should have done monster truck. Phone number monster

truck 718-497-2128. I said 184972128 like that. Yeah. All right. If there's been some sort of contest, the grand prize must be a personal phone call from Harold McGee, reading verses of my choice from on food and cooking. Preferably the section on my yard reactions. That one gets me all jazzed up. I'm not kidding. Well, I'm gonna tell Harold that I wish I had heard that before because I just spoke to him a couple days ago. He's gonna be in town, but not for Tuesday.

Sunday, we'll get it back and record it and send it to this guy or Yeah, record. I'm gonna send it

to Harold and see whether he'll

agree or call us anytime. And we'll record that for him. And he can

Yeah, but he wants a personal phone. We gotta get him both on the phone. Reading sections on my yard reaction from I want I want to hear some tweets and all my tweet if you guys want to hear Harold McGee call in and just do an oral reading of sections of on food and cooking regarding my read reactions as a favor to Joel mustache has given the vegan face.

Okay, I vote yes, I do too.

Francoise writes in regarding the ongoing question of what the hell is in Kanemoto tempura, which is the stuff that they make in Japan to solidify your fry oil. And he writes in good senses a picture of it that says look at the label the same as your beloved ziplock bag. And it's true Francoise that the carramar temperature, the temperature the oil hardening crap from Japan, which supposedly is in quotes seaweed wherever the hell that means I could build like a weapon of mass destruction out of seaweed if you broke it apart enough and did it well, anyway, whatever. That's not my point. My point is that it is made by SC Johnson wax A Family Company. But Francoise unfortunately, if you go to St. John's Johnson wax A Family Company, and you look up their list of ingredients, they only give you ingredients for their American stuff. And then they send you for any other ingredients to the Japanese website, which is guess what, not in English. And then I tried to do Google Translate and nowhere could I find any information regarding the ingredient list on Katamari tempura. So it is still a mystery. If anyone's listening in Japan, please purchase a box of this or look at the ingredients and tell me exactly what the hell's in it. Get someone from the SC Johnson wax.jp Corporation to tell you what Elvis is so you can figure out what kind of reaction it is. Should we take a break?

Yeah, but coffee Mike just wrote us in and says the best Turkey he ever made was in three parts break down the bird made stock from the carcass, braised the legs and stuck and then roast the breast on top of the legs

or listen coffee. Mike before we go to a break. There are a couple of things I think that are correct. First of all, there's what's the best tasting bird and then there is the necessity as an American to present a full freaking bird at the table. Sometimes I've even had like people break it apart, cook a bird for taste and then cook a bird for looks which I think is kind of weird, but it's a waste of bird. But one thing I will say is boning up the turkey which I'm going to do does give the opportunity to make a delicious stock to add to gravy beforehand so coffee might good call I got a question answer for you after the break.

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And we're back Hey,

today's program this sorry guys,

what was it tears brought to me by what? What's the second one?

We got to just keep going right?

We're gonna talk about the wine.

Yeah, well, the wine the wine was just that's just a leftover gift.

That's over gift.

Yeah. Bonus sponsor gift

that our sponsor gift is what percent he pecorino What does peppermint has pecorino is also a grape. And the goat grape to goats specifically, like this grape. They used to

feed the sheep and goats on the grate for real. Yeah, before they started making wine with it, and then they fertilize it. So

have you visited this region to have sighs get dropped the knowledge

episode was brought to you by Anastasia and her wine. Yeah.

Nice. It's an enjoyable one who makes this thing

is about her house wine.

Dropped out of sponsoring they're still friends.

Or listen, okay, Chuck s writes in Okay, we're gonna talk about Jersey in a minute. In a minute. I'm gonna get a question cuz I don't want to I don't want to actually miss it. I want to try to get through all my questions for once. All right. Chuck s writes in I have sorry sold out. I'm looking at buying a pressure cooker from listening to your show. It seems like couldn't recon is a good brand to get although they have never given us a damn thing. Right? Right. Yes. Was they don't give anything away. It's like the PocketJet people. They know they don't give anything they take they don't give mustachioed loves these Yes. Yes, yeah, she loves us anyway, it seems like couldn't recon is a good brand to get. I'd like to know a bit about the trade offs with the various sizes they make. It seems like you can get a pressure cooker with anywhere from a five liter to an eight liter capacity for similar amounts of money. I'm interested in using the pressure cooker to make stocks, beans, etc. Normally, I cook for two to four people two to two to two to four people. For instance, are there issues with buying the one one of the larger pressure cookers and using it to cook small batches of food? Similarly do you have to cook leave a lot of headspace when using the pressure cooker so that the smaller eg five liter cookers are effectively too small to make any practical amount of stock. Thanks a lot and I really enjoy listening to the show. Okay, look, I'll tell first of all tell you the one I own. I own that they have two different main three main lines, the two main ones, they have things called pressure cookers, and the pressure cookers have handles on them typically sort of the fry pans, and then they have ones that they call Stock Pots and Stock Pots don't have kind of pant handles long hands that you can hold. They have a little like like Dumbo ear handles like a pothead. Does that make sense does you know I'm talking about when I say okay, so what I own is the seven quart or a seven liter or whatever it is a pressure cooker with the long handle and I've had it for a long time, probably 12 years or something like that. And I've beaten it doesn't have any handles on it anymore. I've broken them all off. There's there's nothing left on it, I've lost the the vapor lit, it's all it's all history. And I use it constantly. And that's the one that I would recommend you get for any size, any size unless you're cooking extremely large amounts. That's what I'd get. If you're cooking beans and beans tend to have a lot of things that trap air and gas that's what makes you to when you have the beans is the fact that they have compounds in them that you don't break down that can trap gas, hence the gas anyway. So too, so like so therefore you want a taller pressure cooker to allow that stuff when you're doing a release. If you do a release I typically don't like fast release on a pressure cooker I let natural release happen. But if you're going to do a fast release, you're going to want to taller head on it. Anyways, the seven, the seven liters seven quart I guess it's seven liter the seven liter pressure cooker that I have has a bottom of 8.75 inches which is nice for my stovetop so it doesn't scorch doesn't have a lot of hotspots and it's got a really high quality bottom. All right. I'm going to run through all the sizes so that gives you an idea because the prices are fairly similar. You want to get one that is going to function all around for you best I know you normally cook for two to four, but if you're ever going to do six to eight or you can To make a large quantity of stock to freeze, you're gonna want a higher quantity. All right, the 3.5 Quart has a smaller bottom eight inches, it's too small, I don't know why the hell you would ever buy that, because, frankly, it doesn't take that long. What I usually do when I'm working is I'll get the pressure cooker up to temperature with the lid off. And that way I can keep stirring it while the lid is off to read and get it up to boiling. And that prevents it from scorching. I know some people like just throw the ingredients in cap the lid and let it come up, I think that's a mistake that's going to cause a scorching, because you're not moving the stuff around Once the lid is on. If that's your style, if for some reason, like that's your level of personal laziness, then maybe you need to get a smaller one so that it builds up a pressure head faster, right. But if you're not going to do that, then once it's boiling, it builds up a head of steam fairly quickly. So it's not that much longer to build up pressure in a large pressure cooker, within reason than it isn't a small pressure cooker. Now, if you all of a sudden get a pressure cooker, and it's so large that your stove has trouble getting all of that material up to temperature fast enough, then pressure cookers that are too large are a huge problem. And I have an American pressure canner. That's huge. How big is that when we have size, it's huge. It's huge, I can fit your sister in that thing. And that thing takes a long time to get up to temperature, right. So that is obviously a problem. But something like a seven liter or you know does not take a long time to get up to temperature especially because it has a very thick aluminum sandwich in the bottom of the base. It conducts very well. So it's a it's a good it's a good all around size. So it gets a 3.5 Quart forget about it. The five liter six liter, the five liter pressure cooker, the six liter stockpot the seven litre pressure cooker and the eight liter family stockpot all have the same 8.75 inch bottom, they're just taller. And I like the taller ones because if you're actually going to do stock, I like taller thinner things. The only disadvantage being that it's hard to brown a lot of things at one time. And if you want to do single layer braises it's not as good although I don't really think that's that big of a deal. Right. So with that one, I'd probably still go with the one I have this seven liter pressure cooker, maybe the eight liter stockpot because I have cooked sometimes things that are too large for mine anywho now you go to wider to 9.5 inches on the bottom and they make a fry pan or an A braiser I would go for the braiser of those two then because you're not going to need the fry pan handle for that and the braiser is a little bit taller. And if you'd like to do traditional braces, it's a little bit wider so you can get your ossobuco going and you can brown it. When I'm Browning in mind with the smaller bottom I have to do it in batches, I have to brown all my meat in batches, which is a little bit of a pain in the butt. Right? Also, you're not gonna be able to serve a brace out of it that way and your brain is gonna get all jumbled up, right. So if you want to do a lot of braising traditional style, you're going to want to get one of the braising pans and 9.5 inches across but you could get one of the 11 inch lacrosse guys like they make an eight quart called stock which is I don't know what the hell they call it a stock pot cuz it's short like a braiser but it holds eight quarts and then might be a good all around thing if you're not worried about a hotspot because it's a little bit bigger than most of your burners are going to be able to handle. But it handle the full eight quarts, so it's eight quarts eight liters. It's the same size as mine, in terms of it's a little bigger than the one I have, but it's a lot wider if you tend to do braises anyway, and what they didn't use to make that I wish I had now is clean recon makes a 12 quart stockpot that's baller with an 11 inch bottom. That's sick anyway, they have a new type called a top model. I don't know what the hell it is. I never used it looks like it's still not inventing, but I can't recommend it. Enough. You think I got it? That's good. That's good. All right. I hope that helps. Okay. Mike Trump was again talking about now Jersey jersey, two minute Jersey in a minute. I'm gonna get my questions on. Mike Tremblay writes in about pausing and this is all Twitter. It's mashed together from Twitter so you have to apologize it's all Twitter match. Techniques for part cooking food and finishing together roast turkey starchy purees, roast vegetables, steamed vegetables. We'd like to do mashed potatoes, roast cauliflower, etc. Ahead of time and finish it while the turkey rest. But how to do this without losing quality, soggy roast veg, dry mashed potatoes, lots of books, lots of books told me how to cook food. None of them tell me when to pause cooking and how to restart. That's an excellent question. Right? Yes,

here's what I would say. Mashed potatoes what you're going to want to do cook the mashed potatoes ahead of time. Add enough cream or butter by the way a lot of chefs they don't like adding cream because it adds water to it instead of using butter. But I actually prefer the flavor of cream and mashed potatoes to butter I don't know why I still do cream or butter person butter butter. Anyway whatever Wiley agrees with you I agree with me but that's whatever but take your mashed potatoes and don't you know just make sure you do something pleasant like use a food mill or rice or at home. Reiser's. Easiest way to do it. You can go to any kitchen shop and get yourself a ricer and you smash the potatoes through a ricer and it comes out like Lynn beautiful you don't need to do a lot of postings you're not going to get gloopy, nasty mashed potatoes. So rice it mix it carefully with whatever you're going to add butter cream, whatever. And then pack them into Ziploc bags going back to France while my beloved Ziploc bags, pack them into Ziploc bags, exclude the air and make sure they are thin on the order of like less than half an inch I would say like three eighths or something like that like smash them flat do in a couple of bags. Then do whatever with them. I don't care what you do with them doesn't matter. To me, it's your mashed potato right, then, about 2030 minutes before just heat up some water, you don't even need to be that accurate, just get a pot of water friggin hot right and pull it off the stove so you don't blast it out and then throw throw the bags into heat up because you've made them thin, they'll heat up very quickly and you can serve them out. Rose vegetables are a little more difficult because it's about an interior exterior difference of things I would par cook like unglazed like I would par cook them so that they're actually done in a in a kind of a steam situation. And then I would hit them very high in an oven for a couple of minutes to finish off if you want that kind of Roessler but it's not the same. What I'd really it's not the same so I don't even know why I'm telling you that because it's not the same if you do a su v if you do a low temperature cook in a bag of vegetables, you won't have any added water to them and you'll get some of that rose flavor because you're not losing any vegetables and stuff but it's really hard to get rose vegetables to come back to be exactly the same right? I need more time to think about that rather than just Twitter because I haven't haven't successfully done that. I usually build around a non roast or what you do is is I just throw the throw the roast vegetables in with the turkey for the last little bit pull it out but the roast which was finished with a turkey is coming. The main problem is finishing the mashed potatoes and getting those to finish right. I wish I had a better answer for your rose veg. But you know, I only have so many answers in life I guess I guess I'm a low quality person. But do you think that's not true? No, I try. I do my best. Oh, thanks, Jack anyway. Okay, now listen, I gave a sort of a half. What's the word I can use? By the way? I told my son DAX. That jackass is not a curse because it's an animal but he won't believe me every time I say the word jackass. He's like, ooh, and like jackass is an animal. I was like, It's rude to call a person a jackass because no one wants to be likened to a jackass. That jackass is not a curse. How do you explain to him that Jack asked is not a curse, whereas using it to refer to your behind is a curse. It's very complicated for a seven year old. Yeah, right. Yeah. Anyway, what the hell brought me that? And he said you didn't

want to answer this half,

half a half Jack asked. Okay. So and what does half ask me anyway? How do you use half of your behind for something? Where's that come from? Okay. All right round trip as an ice kind of gave a semi answer to he wrote in saying I didn't hear an answer, which is very polite way of saying you gave a crappy answer. The question was, when I cook low temperatures up to home I typically serve all that I make a Civic is sort of all that I make or chill sealed bags to return them for a separate meal. Typically, I follow the 72 hour rule at five degrees 41 degrees Fahrenheit storage, FDA time and temp standards for cvwd in my domestic refrigerator or freeze for longer storage. If I follow the storage FDA storage guidelines, then Siri thermic Can I safely hold the leftovers for the next day or two under refrigeration? Do this FDA sue these standards only pertain and look on page 186 of monitors cuisine volume one, I like that we now quote it like it's the Bible one dash 186 Minus only pertain to time spent in the anaerobic environment, ie until the bag is opened. Do these restrictions go away if I use ziplocks instead of vacuum bags? Okay, so let me specifically talk about that rather than that because I'm sure you already made your duck Riyadh's. So I'm going to answer that specifically, listen, when you're doing low temperature work in a bag. The FDA guidelines are built around pasteurization times for bacteria, active bacteria, and beyond pasteurization times for active bacteria, the storage is then assuming that you have destroyed the storage, the storage guidelines are assuming that you've destroyed an adequate amount of the vegetative bacteria that's present, right. So you've destroyed the listeria you destroy the Assyria coli. If you pasteurize it properly, what you're not able to destroy in in a regular cooking are the bacteria that form spores. So these bacteria are basically botulism, Clostridium botulinum, perfringens, Clostridium perfringens, and I swear to god be serious, be serious. That's the one that's on rice to form spores, that if you leave rice at room temperature, you can get really sick, you'll be serious. I love that it's the best name for it. It's the best name for it for a for a pathogen of all time anyway. So they're worried about spore forming things like this, because you're not destroying those spores. So a lot of the the holding time is worried about spore germination. Now, if you're holding food raw, it's different. Now you're worried about bacterial growth by stuff that's already present. But assuming you've done a pasteurization step, the question is spores. Now, most of those, you know, that are the two that are most common in meats anyway, are anaerobic meaning as soon as you expose those things to air, and reheat them again, you have prevented you've prevented those bacteria from growing because they require a lack of oxygen to grow. And so what you're doing is taking away that and presumably you've killed the vast, vast, vast majority, you've done a D level meaning 10 to the six reduction, six log reduction of the other pathogens that are present in there. So the other like you know, the ones that might I have been there that are anaerobic. So the point being that yes, I would assume that you are okay to reheat store for a normal period of time in your fridge and then go again however, as Modernist Cuisine points out, or as we call it, the new food Bible. You know, do not take my word as legal advice on how to properly preserve your health and safety and welfare. Right? Does that make sense? Now all the way out before before I go on the way up so you know, I always leave before I forget, we wish we

were you close out. The term half assed I've got it for you give it to me evolved from half ads and ads as an ex like tool, the curved blade that shaped wood, if you were wealthy, you paid top dollar for a new fireplace, the mantel would be shaped using the ads in the front as well as the backside which is not visible. But if you weren't that rich and you saved money, you only had the front visible portion shaped, cheaper job being called a half ads job.

That is crazy. And by the way, I don't just call that cheap. I call that smart because you could have spent some time doing something else rather than finishing the back. Although I have to say when I disassemble things and someone is taking the care to do something on the inside that no one's ever going to see. I give a little secret baller. You know what I mean, don't you anyway, I liked that Jack. See, we got to get that one out. I like that. That's that's that's awesome. I appreciate that. Okay, so Natasha and piper of last week's just not talking to his fame right? Love piper of everything business for Piper. I love Piper. Piper is great. Anyway, we went down to David Michael flavor house in New Jersey and saw because you know we're working. Well. Yeah, Philadelphia, which is kind of like you know, okay, yeah, okay. It's Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Anyway, a lot of people who work there live in Jersey anyways. So we're working on some sodas at Booker index equipment company. So he went down there to test out some flavors and whatnot and amazing place, right? Really cool. I've never been in a flavor house before to see how kind of it's done professionally and it is bananas. I hope everyone someday gets a chance to visit a flavor house. It is an eye opening thing. Let me tell you one thing it's going to make you sit before Happy Thanksgiving. First of all, I wish you all good turkey. Except for Michael Mac and who I wish good. Whatever you're making, Michael, tell us what you're making. I'm interested. I want to know what like the most festive vegetarian Thanksgiving dishes are like, like what's the giant baller? Vegetarian Thanksgiving, Turkey not a substitute? Because I know Michael that you're not substituting I know you don't fall into that trap of making some cruddy thing that acts like a turkey. That's not I want to know something that takes the place of a turkey in a vegetarian Thanksgiving that just kicked some serious behind. So if you hear this before Thanksgiving, please let me know on the Twitter what it is that you do. But anyway, Happy Thanksgiving one and all and what are we talking about flavor house?

No, but after that I was gonna set and I'm going to tell you about this really cool thing at the flavor house.

Oh my god, you're okay, listen to this. So David Michaels is the largest behind McCormicks producer of vanilla in the world. And they have like a bazillion different vanillas. And when I went and talked to the vanilla x, one of their many vanilla experts there. They have like I met in like, within like a period of like an hour and a half 234 hours, whatever I met, like a good three or 4% of all of the flavor flavor is on on, you know, in the United States because they have like a bunch of them. There's like three or 400 So really weird dark art of like craziness anyways. So like we met like their vanilla guru. And, and, you know, I thought I knew something about vanilla. I mean, I've read a book or two on it. And I was like, I don't know anything about vanilla. You know what I mean? Right? You're gonna say it was like amazing Anywho. So we visited their vanilla processing place. So listen to this. So they take all of this vanilla and they have barrels of vanilla and back there. There was a crisis in Madagascar when in 2004. So like that they said, and it got up so expensive that like the drum of vanilla that we looked at in 2004 would have been worth like 50 grand to the one bucket and they have bucket after bucket after bucket don't break in. They have weapons anyway. So listen. So we're looking at this bucket of Trump vanilla because they chop it all up before they do their that means chop it before they put in the alcohol do the extraction. And then after they do the extraction, which is all proprietary hoo hoo ha. They put it in a centrifuge and what's left is spent vanilla and we tasted it. And it tastes not like vanilla. It tastes vaguely brown almost like an olive tamponade. Right. Almost like a black olive topping. It was crazy. I was very surprised to get this, then.

What are you allowed to say this? Yeah,

Dell. Anyway, so then check this. So if you buy the vanilla ice cream that has the little dots in it, and you're like, oh, it's got that he's got the real vanilla. So listen, you buy with the dots. Here's what they do. They take inherently flavored this flavor list actual vanilla seeds, little seeds. And then they take that and they mix it back into the extract that they just made to make it look real, but they're actually theoretically denying that much don't worry about their accident. They're actually dumbing down the flavor of it to give you the aesthetic appearance, that that somehow it's real, when in fact it was already real and they added some extra BS to it to make it look more Real cooking issues

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