Hello, everybody, and welcome to a brand new series on heritage radio network called the culinary call sheet where we give a peek into the back kitchen of culinary media. I'm your host, April Jones,

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Absolutely what was once niche or a little silly, as I'm sure you remember, Darren, when we started out, this man has now become such a massive playing field for so many creatives using food as the medium.

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We'll be covering everything from how to style your food, to how to license IP, to developing your own ideas, and some tips from the masters of how to host your own show.

Yeah, it's a little bit of conversation, how to and how do you do the things that you do in color media, which I'm so excited about? I love so many of the guests that are coming on this season. We have talent from Food Network from Vice media eater refinery 29,

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this is vicious vodka. Oh, you can be on this corner and don't know where I am and

Hello and welcome to cooking. He says Dave Arnold, your host of cooking issues coming to you live every tuesday from Roberta's pizzeria on the Harris radio network from roughly 12 to roughly 1245. And hey guys, you guys did a cover of Amos Milburn Vicky's vicious vodka. No crap really? Well, Andy, yeah, for those of you that follow this sort of thing, you know, I'm a lover of the old kind of Cocktail Jazz phenomenon. Amos Milburn wrote a lot of good songs about drinking liquor, you know, a subject of which I'm fond but we're no longer allowed to use his it's not for a long time a lot of our listeners thought it was a fish is fishes vodka. In fact, not the case. It's vicious vicious vodka. Oh, you dirty rat. But because we do not pay BMI ASCAP fees, we can't use the original but so that that covers awesome, loving that. That was a surprise in my inbox. So is that so now recall, we can go back to I think we can

I think we can use that. I mean, unless anybody wants to send in something else and one up that track I don't know how you would

know. I mean, that's it. That's perfect. Beautiful. Unfortunately, today not joined in the studio with Natasha the hammer Lopez. Her plane should be somewhere over Boston right now. She's flying back from Oktoberfest. She was in Munich and believe it or not, possibly the only human being in Munich right now who doesn't like beer? A crazy like, why would you go to Oktoberfest you don't like beer? Any beer? I told her. No. I was like, as I said in a special look, you know, they're not going to serve you champagne at Oktoberfest. It's not going to happen in anything. But luckily, we have Jack and Joe in the studio with us as usual. And today, crew from CNN who's shooting this we'll see we'll see what happens with that. By the way. You know what this means? Jack, there was actually an opportunity to record on video for all time to start his vegan face. Maybe that's why she's not here. You think so? You think she changed her flight or somehow somehow caused a delay on the on the airline so that she would not have to have her vegan face Video.

Maybe Joe can make a vegan face.

Thank you that well Jody having Joe you don't. You don't strike me as kind of hardcore as mustaches on the dislike of the vegan? No, I accept all people's dietary preferences. I'm not a hater. Oh, isn't isn't that nice? Isn't it nice? All right, listen, call your questions live to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128 But let's get to some of the questions on the email. Okay. Kevin Scott wrote in and he enjoyed our suggestions on centrifuges says thank you very much for answering my questions about centrifuges, a couple of shows back. Based on your advice I've ordered a hedge row tanta 460 R, which should be delivered in October. I'm pretty stoked it will push a bunch of stuff on my blogs as soon as I start experimenting and cooking with this new gear. Well, Kevin, you decided to buy a pretty sweet little machine that's the same machine that I think that's the exact model perhaps that Wiley uses. Oh, no, you have the order refrigerated so you want up to Wiley to frame I think that also might be the one that Tony kind of Yarrow uses it six to nine Colebrook row, good friend of ours, good friend of the program. So good call mean expensive, a lot more expensive than my you know, buck, buck 99 centrifuges that are not really ever, ever I've spent myself personally at least $200 on a centrifuge once but that's about as high as I can go. Anyway, good luck with it. I'm sure you'll love it. It's a great machine. Got another question from Ed, who wants to know about ice cream what up guys love the show. Kudos on having a well hidden but there's a curse here kick butt kick butt radio show. And not it's not just because it's about cooking related stuff wanted to write in requesting some advice on stepping up to a large capacity ice cream freezer. I've been using the Lello Musso 40 ad for four years plus, and I can't recommend it enough for home ice cream enthusiast. By the way, the Lello is that the one that you've seen, it's kind of higher end it's around 600 bucks, I think it's usually stainless steel fits on a countertop has its own refrigeration unit. My only gripe obviously with it is its batch times are around 30 minutes. So I bet you could trick it out by really getting a cold base not freezing quite as much batch time of 30 minutes not really ideally really want a batch time you know below about below 20. Definitely remember the faster freezes the smaller crystal size smaller criticized smoothie ice cream anyway, everyone apparently who has the Lello loves it. So you're not alone in your love of levelness. In fact, I went and read a whole bunch of user review sites and I couldn't find anyone who said anything negative about it. Well, in the price range is clearly the best exception being good old fashioned rock salt and ice ice cream making which is a pain in the butt but make some fantastic ice cream. That's that's how I do it at home. And I'm not going all ticked up on it anyway. Regarding the level thing takes a beating freezes small batches quickly and isn't too tough to clean up besides. And besides the nonremovable bowl, which is the bad part. Anyway, I've been looking at used Carpigiani freezers in the 40 to 50 Quart batch range. And the thing to watch out for when I'm buying it used and how old is too old, what the hell you went from? Like you're going from a Lello machine to a 40 Quart batch machine. Okay, so here's what I'm gathering, you're opening a professional ice cream business. Now, the problem that, okay, use the equipment is great, except if you need to rely on it for your business. So if you're going to get a 40 Quart machine, you probably need that thing to run all the time. Now, you might be able to find a company that bought one cup of Chinese a great brand. So I'm not you know, don't worry about that. But you have to make sure that the one that you're buying is I would not buy one that's really really old. Because unless you have someone who's going to refurbish that thing, if you have a professional or a carpet Gianni's you know, service person who will stand behind the machine and refurbish it, then and you know, of course, assuming it uses, you know, the normal modern refrigeration or it can be swapped to normal modern refrigeration gases. You know, it's fine, because you have someone is going to stand behind it. And the parts are relatively available, but you have to make sure and check with other people who have the machine that the particular one that you're looking at isn't a dog, right. So for instance, even the most loved ice cream small ice cream machine that I've ever, you know, had pastry cooks talk about which was the is a Carpigiani codelite, like lab 100. That one has, you know, a critical, expensive part that keeps breaking the plastic faceplate where the draw the ice cream truck comes out of. And when that thing breaks, it's a lot of money to fix it. And you know, in a restaurant, you can stop it from breaking but in the school hours used to break all the time because students were brutal on it because it's not the students they don't care and we're not allowed to yell, yell at them, you know, too loudly when they do things that are rough to the machine. But that said all of the parts for most of those Carpigiani things are available, but it's good to ask other people who have used a particular machine to find out what parts fail how much those parts cost to place, and then making sure you can get it serviced. If all of those things seemed fine, then a used machine can be a great deal. And I poked around and there are some people around who sell refurbished units that they'll stand behind. But if you need to rely on something for your business, I wouldn't go buy something. Because, yes, you're gonna save a lot a lot of money. The question is, can you afford to be wrong. So anytime you buy something on eBay, I mean, I've gotten bitten in the butt before too, I try. You know, I tried to buy something that costs 10 grand new, and I'll buy it for you know, a couple 100 bucks, and I'm hoping I can fix it. And sometimes I can write, in fact, almost all the time that can but sometimes you can't, you know, the biggest burn I ever got was I wanted a really beautiful inline refractometer and the company straight up said they wouldn't support it anymore. So you know, I would definitely not buy anything used at the company doesn't support any more that has specialized parts, for instance, electronics boards, because then if those things go bad, you need to buy a whole nother unit to swap out the parts in it and can be it can be difficult. That said, you can get a great, great deal. So it's all up to you. It's very it's very hard to make a recommendation on this. Anyway. Another question also been starting to wrap my head around and experiment with hydrocolloids in my recipes, lowering my egg content and adding lambda Carageenan and locust bean gum. Can I disperse my hydrocarbons in a regular blender? Any other particular hydrocarbons that you would recommend? One tip of advice I can give fried chicken flavored ice cream may get you punched in the face by one of your friends. One of your friends literally punched you in the face when you made them the fried chicken ice cream. What did you tell them? What they punched you in the face? Check that seems extreme right.

Fried Chicken ice cream seems extreme?

Well, I mean, but it doesn't seem punch worthy. Right? I mean, you know, I mean, like what what food thing would cause you to punch somebody in the face?

That would have to be much more rancid than that.

Yeah, I mean, I only I can I can think of one okay, for instance, check this out. This was this is punch worthy, right. So you take a rotary evaporator, which is of course the vacuum still that I used to do my distillation, and you can literally deodorize without sterilizing, by the way you can deodorize the most foul rank, disgusting, putrid thing you could think of to totally rip all the aroma off of it right? Then turn that turn whatever it is your choice into an ice cream, right? And then you serve them the ice cream, and they won't know that it's some vile, rancid, putrid thing, and then you give them the distilled essence of vile now that you should get punched in the face for right. Me not, you know, punch me, because, you know, I should probably be thrown in jail for that. That's awful. You know what I mean? Fried Chicken ice cream, maybe the guy doesn't like it. But you know what, you got to watch out your friends that your friends are too violent, your friends too violent. Anyway, on the karagin it's now karagin Ns are a class of seaweed based hydrocolloid polysaccharides. And they have, they're used quite often in ice cream, because they react with milk, they have a synergistic reaction with milk. And what that means is you can use a very small amount of Carageenan to enhance your ice cream. Now there's three basic styles of Carageenan out there, there's kappa carrageenan, which is brittle. And you wouldn't, you wouldn't want to use kappa Carageenan because you're not looking for something brittle. It's more, that's more sets like more like an egg or gel. In fact, it's very, very closely related to egg or although it's heating, you know, properties are different. I owe to Carageenan is a great one. When I say of course these cap carry these kept carrying all the time you wouldn't want us a lot of it, you're not trying to gel at heart. Iota carrageenan is interesting because it will reform a gel after it's set and been sheared. It's also very, very soft. So a mixture of Kappa and Iota are great for things like fake tofu set flavors or puddings, right? Great. Lambda is the third one, it doesn't actually gel, but it provides a creamy kind of mouthfeel. So if you're wanting to just increase increase or make more creamy, the mouthfeel of the melted product, lambda is going to be fine. It'll also make it a little thicker, which will probably slow the melt down characteristics of the ice cream typically include some other karagin ins in it like iota or Kappa, and in fact, karagin ins are standardized based on the application so you could probably find a blend of karagin ins from a manufacturer or CP Coco is the one that I usually deal with because they have a very wide range of it that specifically blended for a certain set of ice cream properties. Now Carageenan ins in ice cream are typically there to modify the crystal properties to stop it from RE crystallizing and have the crystals get bigger over time and to make it smoother and to prevent a meltdown. The secondary thing that you add to it like locust bean gum or guar gum is usually there to prevent within the gel structure of the care regaining to prevent the water or the way from the water from leaching back out. And ruining the texture of the ice cream is called way off with a with a not way like, you know, noble day away way like wa like whey protein and milk anyway. So that's why they usually use to gum systems. They used to use guar a lot. But as I said on the show many times guar is now extremely expensive, because the fracking industry wants so much water. So fracking is you know, where you inject high pressure liquid into rocks to shatter them so that you can get more stuff out like petroleum. And guar has this cool property that it reacts with borax, right. And when you react it with borax, it forms a gel, but the gel is pH dependent. Now you can't use this for food because you're not allowed to use borax and food anymore, even though it used to be used for things like caviar and whatnot. Anyway, so it makes this gel here's why you want to do this, right? So when you're fracking, it has nothing to do with food. Don't worry about it. When you're fracking, what you want to do is put something like a silica sand, which is called the prop and and that's going to keep the when you when you bust open a crack in the rock, when you frack it, you need to keep that frack fracking crack open so that when the liquids come up, right, you can get them out. So you have to pump into the high pressure fracking fluid, this like like grains of sand, almost silicates, probably, but you need to carry them and so you need something that's thick, and so they use guar that's been interacted with borax, so that it will be a thick gel, they can pump it under high pressures, they then change the pH when they're done. And the guar melts away to a liquid. That's why they use so much guar when they're when they're fracking around. Do you know that one Jack? Had no idea. There you go. And Jack of course and apparently the network in general anti fracking.

Here we can have that discussion later. But anti Fretwell you know, for the most part, you know,

when you have like a giant no frack sticker on the windows you walk in. So I'm assuming you're you no anti fracking.

Most of most of the network is anti. Do we actually

have a pro fracking cup? I mean, I'm anti fracking. I don't even know anything about the environmental issues, but I want my guar to be cheaper. So that's your, yeah, I'm the I'm the I'm the ice cream loving, anti fracking should leave that charge, which is, you know, guar that Gorn. Lucas Bingham are extremely closely related. But guar has the cool property that when it's mixed with Lucas, when it's mixed with gel and gum, Loisel gel and gum, which is the one I use forms and ice cream, that both can be lit on fire, which is awesome. But also not because it's combustible, not because you know it, it's a fluid gel so it won't melt down. It's great blue label ice cream. And, and you know, I know Jalen, every chef does an ice cream that you can brew lay with Coachella, but the cool thing about the guar is when you add guar it also gets a stretchy snappy kind of a characteristic which is characteristic of slept on Derma the Turkish orchid ice cream, which you know, four or five years ago, everyone was trying to duplicate anyways. So there you go. Guar but really cheap guar really tastes terrible to beanie it tastes like kind of like black eyed pea flower which I love black eyed peas, but not to flower anyway. Okay, so yeah, I would try other things like try locust bean gum, try doing a fluid gel, try adding a little bit of gel in small amounts of gelatin will really really really increase the holding time ie decrease the meltdown of your ice cream, and it makes them absurdly smooth. Just look up Kelco Jo F Loisel gel and fluid gels how to make a fluid gel with it. They're ridiculous ridiculously smooth the smoothest ice creams have ever made the problem is add too many stabilizers and you decrease the flavor release so a lot of people think gelato for instance is this all natural lovey dovey no blah blah blah stuff in fact, it's the most highly stabilized stuff in the world which is why it has that texture and which is why they have to add so much freakin flavor to gelato because otherwise the flavor would be masked. Okay, well you think Jack is that a good answer? Yeah, definitely. Let's take a break. Okay, go into our first commercial break. Call your question is 271. a fortnight seven to one to a cooking is used.

So I'd love you twice as much as I do. For us to our last you each time, our face you with two hearts twice. We're good and fun lips do when Fall is here. You say that? I'm your dad. I wish that I were twins. You grew big ben Higgins so I can love you twice as much as I do. If I would have stood up a big thing again, so I could love you twice as much as I do. I'd have more loving arms to embrace you.

The International Culinary Center is a proud sponsor of the Heritage Radio network.org. The ICC with locations in New York and California provide cutting edge education to future chefs, restaurant tours and wine professionals. We're proud to claim Dan Barber, Bobby Flay and David Chang among their honored alumni. This is Dorothy can Hamilton from Chef story, check out our ICC website at international culinary center.com.

Is that you guys with the music? Yeah. Is that like, what is that like some sort of hammered dulcimer thing? What is that dramatic

flourishes? We didn't make it that was a friend of mine really? Was in Kansas City. Yeah,

I'm just not used to hearing Dorothy talk with the with the kind of, you know, inspirational stuff behind her like, crazy. Nice. Alright, so if you had a Twitter question coming

in, we do have a Twitter question. So this one's coming from C. Schneider it seems to pronounce that prime rib cooked in circulators suggested time temperature if cooked chills, should I reheat from room temp or tight from fridge?

Alright, so here's the thing. Here's the issue. The question is how are you going to serve this thing I think I probably have mentioned this on air. I mentioned it in every Suvi low temp class that I ever do. The last thing on earth you want to do is cook an entire prime rib low temp and then just do a flash sear on the outside and carve it and serve it because you have one huge field of pink meat all the way across. I'm sure I've mentioned this before on the air I ruined Christmas once at at my mom's house by doing that it ruined crypt mean, in my family though, if you ruin the prime rib, you ruined Christmas, and it was perfectly cooked all the way across. But nobody wants a perfect field of one texture of meat all the way across. So it you can do the whole prime rib low tamp if you're going to slice it into steaks. And then and then sear them off because you have crust on each side. And then it's beautiful. And in fact, that's the way I cook ribs steaks. So for rib steaks, I mean, I think I've given it before but for just a rib steak, what I would do is optionally sear it beforehand, put it in a Ziploc bag with a little bit of melted butter, circulate it at 50 either 55 Celsius or 55.2 Celsius for you know a couple of hours, drop the temperature to 50 Celsius for a half hour to 40 minutes, right. Don't hold it too long. Because I can't recommend as a safe you know, holding temperature 50 Pull it out of the bag and put it onto something hotter and hotter than you know, the hottest thing you can find typically the hottest thing you can find in a house unless you have a really butt kicking grill or a deep fryer, or a smoking hot cast iron pan typically the hottest thing you have is not hot enough. So I'm talking hot really hot to put a fast sear without overcooking it. And the reason you drop the temperature down to 50. So you can get that good serum. So that's a steak. Now let's assume you're talking about a roast, what you should really do is use a technique I call a low temperature for insurance and what have you my insurance is cooking insurance. So you might want to put an initial sear on the outside of the meat just to kill bacteria and start flavor development. circulate it, you could do it in a Ziploc bag, you could circulate oil if you have one of the old school fryers, and do the entire rib, the rib roast to 5555 55 two and probe test it or use one of the programs like suevey toolbox you can get on the internet to figure out how long it's going to take to get it up to temperature and give it a little bit longer than that so it's cooked all the way through. Now the entire rib is cooked all the way through. Okay, so I call it now you don't have to worry anymore about the inside of the rib because when you're cooking a rib in a traditional way, you have two different problems you're working with. You're working with getting a good crust on the outside and you're working with making sure that the inside is cooked but not overcooked. So it's two separate problems. So by doing the initial cook step, the low temperature step you have gotten rid of that first problem you know the inside of the meat is cooked. Now all you need to do is worry about the crust, take it out of the bag, you can refrigerate it all the way down if you want to and cook it on a later day. Just make sure it stays sealed and whatever you want. You don't want a lot of oxygen touching the already cooked fat and meat okay. Now you could also just dropped the temperature or by pulling the roast out and letting it sit for an hour or so before you do your final roast off in the in the oven. Or you know any one of these things but once you let it cool down somewhat now crank your oven so it's screaming hot and just put the roast in and now all you're worried about is developing a delicious brown crunchy crust with a little bit of the overcooked stuff on the outside that we all actually love. You know as much as I talk about low temperature cooking and getting all the time looking stuff, right? The best part of a ham or roast is that like kind of overcooked crackling fat stuff around the outside. Let's be honest, as long as there's a whole bunch of juicy delicious stuff on the inside as well. And so you know that technique is low temperature for insurance where you've ensured that you've cooked the inside properly, but then make sure that you get a nice delicious crust on the outside is the technique that I'd use. Did that answer the question? Jack? I think I answered the question more than Yeah. All right. Got a question in from Andrew. I'm gonna I'm gonna mispronounce your name Andrew, Andrew Janji. Jan, Jan Jan Jan Jan. Really? Well, you come here and look at the next break. It's gonna get it right. And Andrew you write and tell me how to pronounce you know what? You know who you know one of my favorites is writing all the time. Rob tre pause you know why? Because he knows I can't pronounce anything properly and he put Trey pause pronunciation so now I see his name and I just think tre pas. Si.

Si. Just me your trackpad sounds like something that could be delicious.

Well, it does because it sounds like it does. eBay it reminds me of Cray pause. Cray but remember Cray pause there those like really kind of like like really saturated color oily crayon suckers. But imagine if they were delicious and edible. That would be trade. Pause. Right? Yeah. Yeah. Cray pas to trip us anyway. So Andrew, we'll just call him Andrew. his Twitter handle is at word loaf, which I can pronounce. has a question for us that we're supposed to get to last week. Why are highly saturated fats better for frying slash Christmas? Is it just better stability slash smoke point or something more? Thanks. Okay. I love this question. I love it because I don't think you can say that there's any one fat that is the best fat for frying. There's Okay, so look. Heil. Okay, so saturated fats are fats that, that were all of the carbons in the fatty acid are fully saturated fats are ones where all of the carbons are joined by single bonds. And unsaturated fatty acid is one where there's double bonds in the carbons. And you know, a mono unsaturated means one double bond and polyunsaturated means multiple double bonds. Now, it's the saturated fats, right? Are the more plastic more plastic ie solid fats because the the more saturated something is, the higher the melting point, right? For a given length of fatty acid, right? Because fatty acid chains are measured by how many carbons long they are, and then after that by how many double bonds they have in it. And then after that, by where in the chain, the double bonds are, okay? So it is true that the saturated ones have a higher melting point in there, the solid fats, and the double bonds in unsaturated fats are much more reactive to oxygen, and it's oxidative breakdown that causes rancidity. And all sorts of other you know, issues that make oil taste bad. So you know, it in a world where you're going to abuse your fat, right? Theoretically, saturated fats are going to last longer. It doesn't always work out that way, though, right? What I really want what I really focus on when I'm choosing a fat is not the smoke point, really, although it's important to have it, you know, be the smoke point to be high enough that it's going to break down. It's not even how long a fat is going to last. Although, again, crucially important from an economic standpoint, and making sure you can at least make it through tonight's frying. The crucial thing you need to first decide is what am I frying? And how am I eating it will give you an example. Donuts when they're hot, always tastes good, right? I mean, I've said this many times on the show, like any any fool monkey can make a hot doughnut that tastes good, right? Also, yeast raised doughnuts are much easier to make tastes good than a cake doughnut. And the reason is, that has to do with oil absorption. So cake donut absorbs much more oil from the fryer than yeast raised doughnut does. And so the quality of the oil makes a big difference. Now hot donuts like most Hot fried things, as long as the oil is of good quality, right? are delicious. Must be honest Frying is God's cooking technique. Okay, but as they cool, right? If you fry in a liquid fat with a doughnut, it's going to taste greasy, and as you eat it, you'll get that greasy feeling on your mouth. What you want in a cold donut is for the oil to solidify for it to be a fat. So when you're frying donuts, you use solid fats. Right. Now, when you're frying a potato chip, you need a liquid fat because what you don't want is the waxy feeling of a solid fat when you crunch on a potato chip. So no matter how stable a solid fat is, if you're frying a potato chip, which is meant to be eaten cold, you use a liquid fat, right? So whether a fat is better or worse depends on the app occasion, I'll give you an example of how hardcore This is, I don't know whether I've ever spoken about this on the air before, if I, you know, if I have just turned down, you know, whatever, stop listening. But listen, if you remember, wow, which is Alaska that came out, I don't know, about 20 years ago or something like that it was being licensed by the Frito Lay Corporation, and they were putting it into potato chips. Now Alaska is a fat that you can't digest, right? It's modified fat that you can't digest. And they can literally turn any any fat into Olestra, they could modify it such that you can no longer digest it now, if you use like a liquid based Olestra, right, so it's so it's unsaturated, it's, you know, it's a liquid at room temperature, or liquid at body temperature, actually, more importantly, and here's where it's gonna get gross, I'm sorry, people. But if you eat a lot of Olestra, there's liquid at body temperature, to put it politely, it runs straight through you, and you can't stop it. Hopefully you understand what I'm talking about. So I don't have to get more graphic with you. So the solution, right, and because of that, allestree got a really bad name, and nobody wanted to eat it, and the product ended up dying, right. But the solution to that was, they used a fat that had a very high solid fat index, SFI, which is how you rate fats solid fat index or solid fat content, they had one that raised a very high SFI at body temperature. Now, the downside of that is that the potato chips that you made with it were extremely waxy, so that when you ate them, they had a waxy mouthfeel. It was such a problem that they built special impingement ovens that would blow air down on the potato chips as they were coming out of the line. And that would blow the surface coating of Illustra off of the top of the potato chip. So it wouldn't have waxy mouthfeel. So everyone who complained about the Olestra chips, that they could taste the Olestra, it's not that you could taste the Olestra it's that you don't like potato chips cooked in a solid fat. Okay, so. So anyway, so that's that, and I've complained on the air many times about cooking oils, and the fact that what you buy in the supermarket is basically just a refined, bleached, deodorized fat. And that's basically it. That's as that's how they you know, that's how it's turned in the basal refined, bleached, deodorized fat. And they're not that tweaked out. So if you buy a liquid like that, in the supermarket, they tend to be poor, you know, fairly bad frying oils, because they're not that protected against oxidation. And they're just they've they break down fairly quickly, no matter what the source is, on those liquid fats, the fats that I used to fry in our super tweaked out, so a lot of them are lightly hydrogenated, which means that they only take the double bonds out of the most reactive species. So as you're hydrogenating, something, you can actually hydrogenate only the most reactive species and therefore increase the oxidative stability of the rest of the oil. They also have all sorts of, you know, awesome stuff like antioxidants added to them. And consequently, commercial fry oil isn't like two times better. It's like 10 times better from a stability perspective than the crap that you're buying in the supermarket. Another thing that people don't think about the freshest and this has nothing to do with the question, but I just want to say it, the freshest oil isn't the best oil, you've all noticed that there's a sweet spot in frying. And the reason is, is as you're frying something, a layer of steam forms around your food, and there's a water there's a and also your food has a lot of water in it. And oil and water, as you all know, don't like to mix and so you actually don't get that good a heat conduction with extremely fresh oil into food. Once the oil starts breaking down a little bit, then the oil can forms its own emulsifiers and can really stick really get in there and provide a lot more heat to the food. So oil that's been used a little bit and you know, old school cooks know this is actually a much better more effective frying medium faster transferring heat energy to your food than brand new oil. And so real hardcore commercial people know exactly where that sweet spot is. And they adjust the systems that say in a potato chip line so that the potato chips absorb which absorb a lot of oil, something like 50% of the weight is you know oil. As they go through the fryer. They're absorbing just the right amount of oil so that they're adding fresh oil all the time and never have to drain it and the oil is always staying in the sweet spot. How awesome is that? Anyway, let's take one more commercial break. Call your questions to 718-497-2128 That's 718-497-2128

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And welcome back to Cooking issues. We have a caller caller, you're on the air. Excellent.

I was calling with a question about iced coffee. Okay. I was wondering, is there any difference between all the fancy cold brew coffee methods that people talk about now? And just brewing coffee and then putting it over ice afterwards?

Oh, yes. Oh, yes. Oh, yeah. I mean, I have to say, like, I'm not. I haven't done a lot of personal experimenting with cold brew techniques. But I do know from brewing kinetics are really complicated and interesting. And so a couple of things happen. When you're extracting at a higher temperature, you shift the different proportions of different things that you're leaching out of the coffee. Okay, so that's the hotter and if you think about espresso, let's just take espresso, let's only think about espresso, because that's something I know a lot about, that even minor temperature shifts and something like espresso can radically change how the espresso tastes so we you know, anyone who makes a lot of espresso knows that if your temperature is too cold, you get a sour shot because of what's getting extracted out of it. If it's too hot, you get a bitter taste what's extracted out so the temperature than the temperature also radically changes how things are infused in general like percolation rates, everything is changed by temperature. So yeah, so you're definitely extracting different ratios of things when you're doing it hot versus cold. Also, the what you do extract from coffee isn't stable so when it's extracted at higher temperatures, the coffee will go through different kind of, I don't know how you'd put it like auto hydrolysis or whatever of the of the of the flavor components and we'll change differently from one that had never been heated. That's what I suspect, based on discussions I've had with you know, coffee experts like Andrea Ely and stuff like that. This is his words, not mine. So and there are plenty of people who love the cold brew coffee and plenty of people that don't you know, and you know, when I make an iced coffee, I make iced coffee with I don't drink it. First of all, my wife drinks it every day. I like espresso. That's what I drink. I'm trying to get into loving other types of coffee, but I'm I'm I'm weird. I'm a weird guy. So um, I love espresso. But when I make iced coffee, I make it from espresso. And that's to my wife's taste, but there's no right or wrong here, but they definitely are different. Okay, thanks a lot. Hey, no problem. Okay, got a question from last week I should address Benjamin Petra zyk writes in their cooking issues in your Harvard lecture, you say that the home chef should get comfortable with Aguilar, Aguilar, and he started recipes either for a dish or for a drink. Okay, so if you're using ag RS and other seaweed powder, I love it because you can get it in any grocery store, buy the powdered Aguilar don't buy the flakes stuff, the flake stuff not as predictable, and just don't abide by the powder stuff. It's just as natural. It's not any more, you know, more or less natural, get the powdered egg or also get yourself a decent scale when they can do tenths of a gram because you're going to some of the bigger recipes are going to be using, we're going to go down that low. So ag are starts gelling in about the 0.2% range. So that's two grams per kilo. And you use ag are all the way up to about you know, point eight or point nine all the way sometimes up to 1% by weight. So that's the range you're going to use. Ag or you want to disperse Agha and remember, whenever you're using a hydrocolloid, or anything you know, that has the has that is a large molecule, you want to disperse it ie get them all separated, so that they don't glom together before you try to hydrate it. So Aguilar you put into cold liquid, you disperse it with a whisk or whatever. Then you heat it up, you heat it up to the boil and when it boils simmer for a couple of minutes and then you can let the temperature drop. Now that the main things you can do with it, or you can set a gel and it's a cool gel because it can be reheated all the way up to about 7075 Celsius before it starts to break down again. So that's pretty awesome, too. You can blend Aguilar gels and I would use about a point eight you know eight grams and a liter eight grams and a kilo point 8% fluid gel you set the gel and you blend it in a blender and it forms a pure race so you can take any liquid you want and form a puree that you can play it out into, you know, that looks awesome. It looks like mashed potato on the plate but when you eat it, it goes to a sauce, which is fantastic that same fluid gel, you can make an orange juice fluid gel or a lemon juice even fluid gel, and then use that to reinforce a whipped cream which is awesome. Or if you use a very small amount with something like lime juice or lemon juice, like 0.2 to two grams and a kilo. That one when you set that gel you can use for clarification so you take your juice you set it you can actually boil the Ag are in water and temper in the juice if you don't want to heat the juice, as long as the numbers balance out right, set it break it with a risk whisk, put it into like a cloth napkin that you tie with string throw it in a salad spinner hit the salad spinner a bunch that's like you know poor man's centrifuge and you'll get clear clarified liquid out. So that's just a couple of things you can do with ag or you can drop you can make little Aguilar balls like you would add alginate balls, but they're solid by dropping them into cold oil, which is a technique I don't know pioneered by I guess, Sam Mason a bajillion years ago, but Aguilar is just fantastic. It works with almost everything ag R has weird interactions with gelatin and stocks. So be careful of that. And ag AR can have weird interactions with things like a cease because of the high tannin levels in it, but ag are just fantastic. And if you have any more specific questions on recipes, give me a holler one more

tweet before the show wraps up looking for a ratio for fluid gel and cream to disperse out of isI

now All right, well that follows up on on that. So what you want is it really depends so if you do just a straight fluid gel, ag or fluid gel or or a gel and fluid gel and you're doing about let's say a point 8% fluid gel ie point 8% Aguilar by weight, or eight grams and a kilo, a straight fluid gel is going to kind of look like weird alien slime when it comes out of an ISI. And whenever you're putting a fluid gel in the isI don't forget to put your finger over the tip and flick your hand down like you are trying to get the last bit of shampoo out of a bottle because of fluid gel is going to be a gel until you put force on it and then you can shoot it down to the bottom of the bottle and dispense it. So I so then I like to add it like about 50% Cream usually or there abouts depends on the punchiness of the flavor you want but you just get an incredibly dense, dense fluids fell out of it. Okay, so you're telling me Jack that I'm running out of time. So here's what I'm going to say. I had a question and also on fri oil on disposal. And this Japanese fry oil disposal thing called kucha marrow 10 Puiu and MBO tempo to see I guess, meaning from finally timber, but anyway, I know nothing about it. The question was from Mark barter. And so what I'm going to do mark is look that sucker up and then report back to you next week. I also got a question two questions in from Joel Gargano. About which vacuum machine he's going to buy. He narrowed it down to two, the Henkelman and the Samak. I'm going to talk to him a bit also about cutting boards next week, because I have a lot to say about vacuum machines and how to pick a good vacuum machine. And also a lot to say about cutting boards, because as usual, I have too much to say about this stuff. And that's why Jack tells me I run out of time, but I got a tweet in that I just have to answer this week. Jeff, if you'll let me on the way out. Hi, Dave, Anastasia, Jack and Joe. I love apples cherries and peaches. Who doesn't? But ever since I was a kid, these fruit fruits cause my mouth and throat to itch. I figured out that I suffer from oral allergy syndrome, which is an allergy to certain proteins and fruit particularly in the skin. Peeling the fruit solves the problem as cooking the fruit to denature the proteins. I love eating these fruits fresh and peeling things like cherries is a huge pain. Do you have any suggestions on how to denature these proteins without actually cooking the fruit? Thanks for any advice. Huge fan of the show, Greg? Greg, I feel you. I feel you when I was 3030 or 31 I suddenly developed an allergy to cherries that causes my throat to close when I eat them in large quantities and causes itchiness certain apples also causes to be thankfully it hasn't happened with peaches yet. First of all, I don't know if you know this, but different apple varieties have different wildly different levels of the allergens in them that cause your throat to itch. So certain apples you might be okay with and others you don't and there's a scientific paper that was never written you know, right Susan Brown up at Cornell, who was doing the research, they know which varieties are more allergenic than the others but I haven't been able to find public research on it publicly available research on it anywhere. But a fresh cherries, which I can no longer eat, I think are kind of, you know, possibly the greatest fruit in the world. I love them. And I can't eat them. And to me cook cherries are not even cherries. It's something else. It's like cherry pie feeling or something. There's nothing like a fresh cherry and I can't have them anymore. Yeah, I do not know anyway, but anyone, anyone out there who has any solution to this problem, some sort of anything that can bind to these proteins so that Greg can have the stone fruits and I can have my cherries again, let us know cooking issues.