Cooking Issues Transcript

Episode 95: Intelligent and Tasty Cephalopods


Hello, everybody, and welcome to a brand new series on heritage radio network called the culinary call sheet where we give a peek into the back kitchen of culinary media. I'm your host, April Jones,

and I'm your co host, Darren bresnitz. Part of why we started the show was to offer an unofficial mentorship for anyone who's interested in learning about all aspects of food and video, whether that's TV, social media online, or just something you want to do for fun.

Absolutely what was once niche or a little silly, as I'm sure you remember, Darren, when we started out, this man has now become such a massive playing field for so many creatives using food as the medium.

It's something that has driven us professionally and personally, for so many years. What excites me the most about this show is that we're going to sit down with some of the industry leaders to hear how they made it and what drew them into this industry.

With 20 years in the culinary production game ourselves. We're hoping we can give through these conversations an insider's view into personal stories from the field, as well as an in depth behind the scenes look into some of the most popular food programming. In today's evolving culinary media landscape.

We'll be covering everything from how to style your food, to how to license IP, to developing your own ideas, and some tips from the masters of how to host your own show.

Yeah, it's a little bit of conversation, how to and how do you do the things that you do in color media, which I'm so excited about? I love so many of the guests that are coming on this season. We have talent from Food Network from Vice media eater refinery 29,

we've met some of the best people in the world both in front of and behind the camera. And we're bringing them all together to share their stories, their delicious adventure and their unique journey into this crazy world.

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Today's program has been brought to you by Whole Foods Market a dynamic leader in the quality food business a mission driven company that aims to set the standards of excellence for food retailers. For more information visit Whole Foods market.com. broadcasting live from Bushwick, Brooklyn, you're listening to heritage Radio network.org. Hello, and

welcome to cooking issues. This is Dave on your host and cooking. She's coming to you live on Tuesday about 510 minutes late netback Roberta's pizzeria in Bushwick Brooklyn calling your questions live 271-849-7212 Wait that's 718-497-2128 Joining the studio as usual with Miss Tasha the hammer Lopez, Joe and Jack in the in the booth How you guys doing? Great. Yeah, you don't want mustache I

just became members of heritage radio network. So we're pretty happy with

you who Booker and DAX LLC are cooking issues the show you guys. Oh as humans Nice. Congratulations to us. And thank you Natasha for signing. Yeah, each each. Yeah. Nice. All right, worth it worth it worth every penny. By the way, I'm it looks like I'm horribly out of shape. Today on the Williamsburg Bridge sympathy today on the Williamsburg Bridge. Oh,

sympathy. This guy.

I didn't ask for sympathy. You know, I like seeing the Stasha. Again, this is another thing about the statute. It doesn't you don't you don't know 1155. Those of you that don't know what's going on. I didn't say I am late as a result of being out of shape. I said I'm horribly out of shape. Mr. Atia creates conversations in her head and assumes that they've already taken place and then makes conclusions based on those conversations that she thinks has already taken place. Like for instance, me saying I'm late because I'm out of shape. Instead of leaving early. I'm just merely stating the fact that I'm out of late now continue with my story that has nothing to do with me being late has to do with me being out of shape. Natasha, the this guy passes me at the beginning of the Williamsburg Bridge, and he's on the straightaway so I figured out catch up to him because I very rarely get passed because I bake not because I'm in shape or because I'm athletic neither of which is the case. But I get extremely angry when I ride the bicycle. And it's astonishing knows. Anger increases my physical abilities. Not in a Hulk like sense, but just you know, anger right says, yeah, anyways, guy beat me by 30 seconds. That's half of the bridge, I cannot believe it. I'm gonna have to go into some sort of training regimen. The reason I'm late actually is because I didn't follow my own advice because I'm a moron to come here and do my research from Roberta's instead of doing it from home. That's the reason I'm late Natasha for your information. Anyways, let's go to some questions because I have a reduced amount of time on the lucuma which I promised I'd answer. The question was, can you use Luca powder? Is there a substitute for Luca Luca Moses fruit I think some people think is a superfood or something? I don't know. It comes from Peru. And I said that I thought I'd do something similar to it in Colombia. And then we'll come back once I'm back from Colombia, which I have now got back on Monday. would, you know, maybe you could use instead or that I tried to use some of its properties to figured out a substitution. Turns out, I was completely incorrect and memory. My memory was completely wrong. When I researched my memory when I got back because I didn't see anything similar to it. What I remembered is, is that Anastasia, you have to tune in for this and tune out of your Zappos session there. The it's not, it wasn't anything Columbia had that was similar to look, it's kind of Estelle. Remember Kim Estelle, the fruit that we had in the fruit and spice Park. And based on that, there is a taste component to it. That's important, but seems to me it's mostly the texture of it. That's important. Because it was a texture that a custard fruit, can Estelle Caan, I can't spell out the kind of style that was so kind of amazing. And there is a producer of canister shell that ships when it's in season, which is I think, December through March or May or something like that. And they're in Florida. And if you go on local harvest.org and look up fresh gardens, they will ship fresh canister, well, anywhere in in the US, I don't think you're going to get a powder that's going to mimic those same things. I mean, you could use a hydrocolloid mix to do it. But the thing about the thing about the canister shell and I guess a Luca moto I've never used fresh is it's just extremely dense and custardy on its own, which is probably a combination of high fiber content, low water content, and probably a number of strange polysaccharides that contribute to its sweet consistency so you could try to get that texture just by jacking polysaccharides and in for instance, locust bean gum or look has been gums good for that, because guar is expensive. Now if you're gonna use guar you have to use the flavor free guar from THC gums or some form of thickener. The issue when you thicken something is you some people say that you perceive an increased gumminess which is true the higher the concentration you use, the more kind of gummy something is but sometimes that can be pleasurable. It's just basically managing the expectations of what the texture is going to be and messing around that to get the texture right The other issue when you add hydrocolloid is once you add them in enough of that concentration to truly thick and thick and thicken something you're masking flavor and the only way to reduce that masking effect is to increase the flavor profile of what you're what you're using but I tried to look into it more it's an interesting problem I wasn't able to I wasn't able to get an answer for you so I apologize rest as I'm useless men but you enjoyed the the cluster stuff right well yeah, yeah. Can Estelle delicious? And by the way, if you believe the wiki folks, can Estelle actually taste better than the LUCA mushes they don't happen to grow the LUCA ma Bina can Estelle in I guess Peru where it's poppin we're looking was popular about that. So stuff we had was actually superior. Anyway. Okay. Next question. From Oh, we had a response actually to our vegetarian gummy question from Andrew he says hey guys, I just thought I might be able to help with the question about vegetarian gummies and the subject of alcohol because of the person who wrote in one know if they can make an alcohol gummy. I'm sort of alcohol I've made I've made an alcohol centered gummy for product development project and a confectionery school but the thing is you need a two shot mogul and for those who don't know what a mogul is, because that's not going to make sense to anyone mogul is I think it's a brand name of an IDI needy or whatever they're pronounced is of confectionery machines that do starch molding, so it's its whole confectionery line that produces starch molds, and then does depositing of candies into starch molds, and a cold moguls you can look up. And I and IDI mini mogul if you want to look up the the thing and IDI starts depositing look at mini mobile, or there are other other lines in the US and for depositing marshmallows, fun dance and jellies, all that kind of stuff. Anyway, so where were they? Oh, yes. But the thing is you need to shop mobile and need to make sure that both your outer gummy and your inner alcohol mixture have close to the same specific gravity. So it's not really possible at home, which I figured right. Okay, for vegetarian gummies with a really too chewy texture however, I would try messing around with either starch which we've talked about, or gum arabic. Aguilar is way too shortening, I guess brittle to replicate a gelatin gummy and I personally don't like the cooling effect that comes with high levels of Agbar that said pectin is my favorite for gels has such a great flavor, release and texture. Thanks for everything you do. Andrew ah, and the one that was really easy for you to do at home. It's not starch. It doesn't require a lot of cooking and I hadn't thought of is the one he mentioned, which is gum arabic gum arabic is expensive. But what's interesting about gum arabic is it has an extremely high solubility. So but yet means you have to use a preposterously high amount of gum arabic But that said, you have minimal taste impact with gum arabic on your flavors. So this is an excellent suggestion. But I believe, and I haven't had time to read this this morning to research Arabic based gum arabic based candies, but I'm pretty sure you're gonna have to deposit it liquid into starch mixture, and then let it dry for a fairly long period. In a relatively controlled environment I mentioned, I believe starts molding once in the past, and there is online available and 18 I think 90s or 1910s or 20s Handbook produced in England on confectionary. It's like the complete confectioner or something like that. And it has an entire section on starch molding and how to accomplish it with techniques that don't require sophisticated equipment, ie you can do it at home. It's not state of the art because it's from over 100 years ago, but it's doable at home. And it goes through the ins and outs of molding and starch. And it's available free on Google Books. So that's something maybe you should look into another question, Should we take a break for particular question? No, go on. Okay. Another question. James writes in with several things, once, thanking us for circulation, circulator info, dear Jack, Joe, and astonishing Dave, I've been really enjoying the show down here in Australia and have a few questions about freezing shelflife and tentacles after learning about wreath normalizing, which is what we call reheating so that the government doesn't get mad that we didn't reheat it to an incredibly high temperature, destroying all the flavor and texture whatnot. After learning about thermal icing on your show, using a thermal circulators become an everyday part of our cooking. They just greatly increase the yumminess in our house. It's now routine to make quantities of both stock and prepared meals such as curry soups and other ingredients. For more elaborate dishes including wild mushrooms, coffee and octopus. They are prepared and then chilled using good food handling practices, including ice baths and flat pans for chilling fat flats up flat pans for chilling, then held at two degrees C overnight and packed in service sized portions using a chamber vacuum sealer flattened and frozen in layers no greater than 30 millimeters. By the way, this is the kind of I love hearing that we've ever said anything that actually makes people's food better, right. I mean, that's, that to me is that's the best I love that. Like that's that's the success. That's you know, and before we had, you know, a bar any kind of place when we could actually serve things to people to directly make them hopefully make them happy. But the only kind of satisfaction we got out of stuff was that people said that the information we gave them help. So I like that anyway, the freezer is set to negative 19 C which is roughly minus four Fahrenheit for you guys, here in Fahrenheit land and using the turbo button which we don't have, which I assume is a fan speeding thing to increase air circulation on the inside of your freezer, which is a good idea. I wish all freezers had kind of an increased circulation technique on the inside of the freezer to handle large loads like that when they couldn't, is ready to handle 19 kilograms of freezing per 24 hours is a frost free model made by mela Leaper we get Mila but we don't get the fridges over here do we think so? It's associated more with Europe? Yeah. It seems to be designed to minimize the freeze thaw cycle by sealing the drawers and dehumidifying My question is how long can I keep this frozen stuff? The online guides say one month for stock three for prepared meals and fish. Yet the snap frozen wild caught shrimp I have purchased have a shelf life of 18 plus months. What's the deal? Ah, excellent question. What's the deal? Here's the deal.

The freezing shelf life, the frozen shelf life of products. And this is a dirty secret that no one tells you when you are looking at the shelf life of a refrigerated product. Most people think what you're talking about is how long can it stay in the refrigerator and still be safe, right? Because bacteria can still grow molds can grow in the fridge. And so in the fridge shelf life is a safety concern. However, when someone's rating the shelf life of a product, they're actually rating two separate things they're rating one, is it going to be safe to consume and two is it going to taste good? Right so there are plenty things that have exceed their shelf life in the fridge or in the freezer but are still safe. Now in the fridge it actually is dual situation safety and safety and palatability in the freezer it's it's almost exclusively shelf life is almost exclusively based on is it going to taste good or cook well once it gets out. And the culprits in a freezer are one freestall over time right. So they have to assume a general you know a certain kind of level of quality of your of your fridge freezer rather so most freezers thermally cycled quite a bit and go up and down up and down. In any home freezer, not 100% of the water inner product is frozen unless you're talking about pure water ice because not all of his is frozen. Anytime that temperature goes up and down some more of the concentrated basically everything that's in your meat like salt, proteins, all those things are in a very conscious In trading solution, they water increases in decreases and when every time it does, smaller ice crystals inside of your product tend to grow because the smallest ice crystals typically are going to melt all the way first, and then when they reach when they refreeze, they'll freeze back onto the larger crystals. So ice crystals size increases over time and your freezer. And as a result, those larger ice crystals, penetrate cell walls and whatnot and cause for more drip loss, which means when you thought more of the inside juices of your product are going to drip out rendering your product more crappy. So the longer period of time it spends in a freezer, it's open and closed a lot and goes through a lot of freeze thaw cycles, the crappier your product is and so that's a major influence on shelf life. Another problem with shelf life is it things that are exposed to actual atmosphere on the inside of your fridge, whether inside of a package or, or not tend to what happens is as they grow crystals on the outside and in the surface of the meat become dehydrated due to sublimation, and then re crystallization etc. It's called freeze, freezer burn. And so this is a situation that deteriorates over time, right. And so this is another reason why certain things have a specific shelf life, you minimize this by reducing any opportunity for your product, the product surface to not be covered. So if you're vacuum bagging, this reduces a lot of that or even if you're bagging something, and you remove most of the air such that all the surfaces in contact with something, it's going to prevent sublimation of water, you're preventing that. The third thing is is that because you're actually in a concentrated solution and not totally frozen, right, certain oxidative changes and other changes, enzymatic changes whatnot can take place in a freezer and acidity of fats is one that's very well known fats can become more rancid in the freezer if they're stored. And you're reducing that by vacuuming at a high level of vacuum. So you want to use a high high level of vacuum when you're doing this. And that's going to retire those kinds of things, thereby increasing the shelf life on the inside of a freezer. So the steps you're taking right should ensure that you have a very long shelf life, right? The one thing you should notice that freezing is not a prevention if freezing doesn't kill bacteria necessarily. So the safety of a product when you go when it goes into the freezer isn't any better than it is when it comes out the freezer just arrests, kind of any sort of bacterial degradation during its freeze time. If you actually want to preserve things for a dang near infinity, you need a freezer that actually does freeze all the way down to the point where everything in the product is frozen. And for that you need a super deep freeze like our friends Mark Ladner has over there at the Dell post of the keeps things at like minus 79 I think Fahrenheit or Celsius I forget which which in French is dang cold and most people can't do at home and in there. There's no liquid water left in the substance at all. And so in essence it's in suspended animation. Okay, next I'm a big fan of the Suvi octopus tentacles as they are tender, but don't have the honey ish taste it seems to come out when cooked conventionally for a long time in stews. My question is, sorry, cooking students from experimentation ruling out suppliers. I got octopus from Victorian and West Australian sources. I've worked out the timings in the both under pressure book and the Modernist Cuisine book result in an overcooked pappy mess that falls to bits or de laminate for ones who want a better word prior to sealing the legs or blanche for 45 seconds in a big pot of water and sealed to medium vacuum. The size of the octopus doesn't seem to influence the time that much of cooking. But the common have a common across any cooking time as the legs seem to lose a lot of fluid that sets and sets in much the same way as a gelatin and they never seem to look like the pictures. Not that I'm complaining they still taste good. And the octo goo makes a great addition to sauces and to and make some mean ramen. During some tests that worked out that the timing needs to be reduced 1.1 to 1.5 hours, about 25 to 30% of the recommended cooking times. By the way, under pressure. I consulted it and they're recommended octopus cooking is 77 degrees Celsius for five hours. But size seems to make little. These can be big critters where I come from with four tentacles weighing in at over 1.8 kilograms, which is like almost five pounds for us Americans here. But size seems to make little difference. I think this is a result of the practice of tenderizing that occurs down here using a freeze thaw cycle or a small cement mixer. But I'm interested to get your take on it changed. Cheers Cheers, James. Like that. Cheers. Cheers from from James. That's gonna that's gonna be like that's gonna be my sign off unless jeers see if anyone gets it anyway. So just actually remember when we clicked that giant octopus were you there that day? Yeah, so true role foods which is a Japanese supplier and which you know Yugi Horiguchi, who now is working here at Roberta's and has his own ramen shop. Go UG. Anyway Yugi used to be our supplier from true world and he wants goddess ate. I ain't octopus tentacle. Remember that's definitely was big. And here's the and we cooked it and before I go on, I'm gonna forget to mention it. The interesting thing that no one talks about with octopus cookery in the nose and I used to think about quite a bit and only had a couple of times to experiment with is that and McGee talked But we talked about it a lot in the biggie here on the GI classes. We're not going to see next week at Harvard, by the way, next week cooking issues is going to be at Harvard. I'm gonna see if I can. I gotta see if we can do the show from Harvard, though. You don't I'm saying anyway, because we're doing the Harvard lecture again next week.

Okay, octopus, by the way, I'm sorry, I have so many so many diversions that no one and knows what I started talking about, but just had to excuse me, that's how my brain works. So octopus are like the smartest things like the one of the smartest things in the in the ocean, they only live for like two like summer even shorter, but like the big ones, like two, three years. And then after they either the males after they do their business, you know what I mean with the women, right? They go senile and just start wandering around on the floor and let themselves get out of the ocean and start letting themselves get eaten by anything that goes around they go, it's called senility. It's senescence. So this is literally what happens the male's do that right? And then they're like, man, they wander around the floor and just get eaten and taken apart and stuff like that. The female octopus, whatever, they don't give a crap anymore. It's like literally like they just wander around on the floor of the ocean drunk and crazy and then get eaten. The female octopus holds itself up like doesn't eat anymore and sits there with its funnel just airy, like you know, blowing water over the surface of its eggs to prevent kind of parasites from attaching and to protect them in case the the poop hits the fan down there. Then as soon as the eggs hatch, she wanders off and dies and stars or whatever it's done. Yeah, so anyway, so there's these weird things that are that are incredibly smart. That kind of amazing. They have amazing skin amazing abilities like cephalopods in general of which octopus is my favorite. A and probably not to eat probably squid is my favorite to eat cephalopod I think it goes like this. I think it goes squid, then octopus cuttlefish being dead last in my in my cephalopod ranking of eating anyway. They're like incredibly smart. And if they live for even like, you know, twice or three times as long, it's my feeling that we would have octopus Butler's on like, in like aquariums on motors like following us around like doing our work for us, because they would have evolved to that much higher level of thinking. And if they lived an order of magnitude longer, like 30 years, I have no question that they would have evolved to the point where they'd be out here just kicking our behinds left and right. And we'd be in little cages and they'd be marveling at how well we could unscrew a jar with our tentacles by the fingers. Yeah, they're really amazing creatures, but delicious. Anyway, something you might not know is that the different tentacles of an octopus taste different, right? So they have dominant tentacles and non dominant tentacles. So that's an interesting thing. Especially because we usually eat octopus like hacked up in a salad, there's no way to know. And also, the texture of the Tentacle is radically different depending on where in the tentacle you get it. So we did a comparative tasting of this giant octopus tentacle from the base of tentacle all the way to the tip. And it's been many years since we did it. But I believe the sweet spot was somewhere like towards the first third of the of the 10 of it, not the thin part, you didn't like the thin part, right? That's the more rubbery part is the more rubbery part. And by rubbery I mean like the same texture as the small part of the lobster claw. You know, the small part of the lobster claw has that weird texture. Yeah, so the I believe the tip of the Tentacle has that kind of a texture more, which makes sense if you think about it. But you don't want the very base either. I think it was the bait like right around the first third. And you could do that in this tentacle because it was three feet long. It's crazy. And so the way we did it similar to the way you did, we did Japanese style where it slowly dip technical point first and it curls into itself, then put in a bag and vacuum and it doesn't need release a lot of goo. And this is the difference between oven cooking something or pot cooking something and doing it in a bag because the one thing that people always stopped don't think about or rarely think about when they're cooking in a vacuum bag is there's no reduction inside that bag at all. And so what that means is all the juices that are exuded from the meat itself, end up in the bag that said, so you're not going to get that concentration, which is where the honey Enos is coming from that you get if it's kind of reducing in its own goo over time. And another thing that said that after Gu is delicious, but I don't think there's any way that you can get around. Get around that. As for the other problem you had, which is the shorter cooking time, I haven't done a comparative study I know about freestyling was talking about before it basically ice crystals rupturing the flesh so that when it thaws out, it is going to drip but then also be more tender that works and so does the technique we call beating the hell out of which is also practiced by some people. But I myself I've never run a comparative study of a non frozen versus a fresh octopus. And I've never run a comparative study of a beaten the hell out of versus not the beaten holiday of an octopus. So I can't really speak to whether or not your octopus is different from our octopus. And by that I mean whether your octopus is different from Nathan Myhrvold, octopus and Thomas Keller's octopus, which are the two sources that you cited. That said some people like their octopus to be a pappy mess, which I don't I like a little more tooth in in the octopus. Natasha, what do you like a mushy mess or more tooth tooth tooth? Yeah, so it could is also be a matter of taste because one person's mush is another person's tender. And so I think it's a nice way to say it right. So I don't know, it's really all a matter of matter of case, I didn't time it when we did it, we literally did it by pulling the bag out of the water and squeezing it. We also I believe did it at a much higher temperature. I don't think when we do our test, we did our tests at 77. I think we did it a good bit higher, like 85. So I can't really speak to it. But we did not cook for five hours, there's no way on God's earth, we cook that thing for five hours, we just kept pulling it out of the bag. And squeezing it. In our opinion, the amount of time did make a difference, based on size. And the reason I say this is because the tips of the tentacles were definitely done from the base of the tentacles. So the size did make a significant difference, in our opinion. But that also could be that the different parts of the muscle were different. So we didn't test we didn't basically, we're schmucks which marks we should have done is, is taking the octopus tentacle and section get all the way down in exactly. You know, same sized strip all the way down in case it along the length. But you can't do that either. Because octopus muscle, the way it's structured, it's a it's what do they call it an hydrostat, hydraulic hydrostat something like that. There's a word for the way octopus muscles work. And it's the same way that our tongue works. Our tongues are articulate such that we can move them in any direction even though there's no bones. And so there's a particular muscular arrangement and an octopus same as an elephant's trunk that allows that to happen and so taking an internal portion of it's not going to be the same as taking the external portion so you can't win turns out as usual. Natasha you can't wait you never wrote a post on that Did you know of course the person that I just had the information in my head I didn't ever wrote the post we had the pictures it was Piper who did it. And as an as a shout out to someone who's going to buy the Bamix cleaning the band is also from James cleaning the Bamix is really easy run into hot soapy water then clean water and wipe down the housing the blades grip really well and I've used the units that are 25 years old they're still going strong make sure you get a few 140 Watt for home use badass power band next from James it's not our commercialized James I was just reading with my commercial voice Yeah With that let's take our first break took it gives us

so you don't shove the devil with your rock and roll those Echo to me Sam, it's gonna catch you those things that took you to God fearing man wanted to rock

today's program has been brought to you by Whole Foods Market. Did you know that pollinators are needed for more than two thirds of the world's crop species. Most of these pollinators are bees. However, North Americans bee population has been steadily declining since the 1990s. Whether you live in the country of the city, you can show your commitment by hosting a hive in your backyard or even on a rooftop. The beekeeping movement is growing, so you're sure to find swarms of folks who can help you find your way. Learn more about the ways you can help be the solution at Whole Foods market.com/share The buzz

two way students see that stones in hell

really Jack really Jack be the solution music ever listened to?

Damon's band brothers Damon baldy?

Are we gonna get a shout out to the to the to the thing next week or not? Are

you gonna give a shout out to come to the heritage radio and

what are the annual fundraising party?

First Annual first,

first annual members only fundraising party at Roberta's pizzeria on Sunday September the eighth you gotta give me the night I don't know if I'm gonna if I'm gonna scream like Monster Truck things you have to have in front of you it's it's hard to put the monster truck voice on and ad lib at the same time.

Some additions yeah we have sellers at Jasper Hill going to bring cheese good GripTight from Daptone Records is going to be DJing funk and soul with special guests and get this Brian Kenny the guy you know from the Hearst ranch commercial knowing songs no way the horse ranch commercial

well i Now there's something I have to say if he's not going to play we're not doing it that's it Okay, all right because I was about to walk out like a mustache and I have decided that our New Year's resolution last year and it's a little late so we'll have to do it again for this year is to be complete divas at all times. Right? You don't have the yellow Skittles I'm out

there it's very easy way so that means I'm gonna be here

menu items to Michael Anthony from grammar She's doing woodfire roasted market vegetables.

Nice veganism. Harris Hall

cooking sockeye salmon. Bristol Bay books is doing a brown butter sour apricots semi Fredo with olive oil croutons.

Did I mention what a badass pastry cook tremendous?

Yeah, is this one looks Hadley

how's this for a menu item description? Forest mushroom salad with handmade farmer's cheese, sidewalk greens and toasts, sidewalk gains sidewalk greens,

let me tell you, you can collect lots of sidewalk greens in the Lower East Side. I just don't happen to pick them. I'm a little nervous about that exhaust fumes from the in my lambsquarters I'm assuming

these were not from the Lower East Side.

I'm assuming it's lamb. Bushwick. I'm assuming it's lambsquarters those things grow all over the city. Like there's lambsquarters all over the city that you can just pick and use. Like no, no, it's like auric it's like Lansing salad. It's good. Does not It's not like that sours it's good. That mean again, I've only collected it not next to where I've seen homeless people poop. But that's true. I'm not saying there's homeless poop in this dish people you should still pay the money and come to the members only party. Jack's horrified now all of a sudden Jack stops talking about it. I'm out. And hey, look homeless people's poop washes off the same as horse and dog poop does so don't

worry about so it's heritage radio network.eventbrite.com

How much the tickets are 150 but

your cooking issues listeners you can use the code cooking issues for a $50 discount.

Oh snap. Has anyone used our code yet? I have to check that out. Yeah. Are you going to charge more if you come to the door? No. 50 You're at the VA for that Anastasia will smile at you while she has the glass appears way in her hand. One of my favorite things about Natasha and this is true favorite thing is that this she is she is a sucker for champagne loves as do i By the way I love champagne. Love it. And Anastacia low champagne so much that even if we're trying to serve a cocktail, instead of drinking our cocktail to like to sell the cocktail that we're making, she like crap, and I want champagne. I want me some champagne. Well,

if you put strawberry in it, your strawberry is that we're gonna do? I think so. Yeah, that's what we're doing.

When it was only strawberry, it's gonna be a different fruit that's in season. But something like that. Something like that, okay, by the dank tickets support this show by buying the tickets with our code so that people know that this is a PBS thing here, right? This is our PBS pitch that they know that you know you care about. If you care about quality programming, like cooking issues radio, show your support by becoming a member of heritage radio today, right? That's how I'm gonna get what they would say. Yeah, thank you. Okay, now the question from CO F miles about coon recon pressure cookers. I'm a longtime listener, your cooking issues radio show, I'll be it offline and seriously time delay via the podcast. The question may be more for David, because Natasha doesn't care doesn't mess him. But I've been experimenting with an eight quart Khun recon pressure cooker. I would now like to start making healthy quantities of stock. That means big I'm looking for a cooker between 28 and 30 courts to date I have been able to find only aluminum cookers in that size. Since my stove is induction I need stainless steel cookers or one with a stainless steel bottom plate. Do you guys know where I might look? Thanks in advance co F miles Nope. There is as far as I know. No easily purchasable pressure cooker. That is that large other than the ones made by American like American pressure cooker Americans Wisconsin foundry they make the large ones in the stash we have one with a screw down things

that question this morning. What this question was no Yeah,

yeah. That's fair, fair. I'm gonna take that as a smack. By the way what you're hearing now is Miss doshas get beaten on by David on the show. Again, if you guys heard even 112 of what she says to me off air, you would have no sympathy. I'm just saying that because that's her ploy. It's her ploy.

I looked it up this morning because I was like, this guy thinks I won't know the answer. So he's asking David

Oh you see it's actually because she never know what she's gonna take personally you're getting better insight into the Lopez mind here by the way folks, which I appreciate. But there is a simple solution for you. The simple solution is they say you can buy this it's preposterous ly overpriced, but you can look online for the max Burton, eight inch induction interface disc and it's just a slug of stainless steel with a handle on it that you put in between the induction burner and your stainless steel or your aluminum in pressure cooker. And with that you can then they're also do ceramics glass you can hit anything because the induction burner is instead of heating your pot directly is heating a steel slug in between your pot and things. It's not as efficient or as fast as as a normal, you know induction in a pot right because you're not heating the pot directly, but it is still fairly efficient. I haven't tested it myself, but it should be fairly fast, not as fast but fairly fast, won't be on obviously on ceramics because it takes a long time for the heat to travel through ceramic no matter how it's applied, but they charge like 100 bucks for it, which is an outrage, you can just buy like a steel plate, like eight by eight or like 12 by 12. But you really want to fit the size of your pot, you can just buy a steel plate online doesn't have to be stainless, even stainless is nicer and it won't rust, but anything like that a slug to put in there, but look at so you can get the basic like look of how it looks Max Burton, eight inch induction interface disk with heat proof handle. And that's your solution. If you're worried about putting stuff inside of aluminum because you think that there's a taste issue, although I cook an aluminum quite often, you know, barring certain, you know, highly whatever. Anyway, you can put a bain marie on the inside of it a large bamboo tree on the inside of one of those pressure cookers and still make a large quantity of stock or you can cook directly in the aluminum. One last thing if you have a lot of space, money and power, you can buy a used autoclave, which is a medical piece of equipment that functions as a pressure cooker and you can actually use an autoclave as an extremely large pressure cooker but unless you have you know, you have have to keep it in your garage or something like that. But that's what they use. They use Frankie they instrument the equipment company sells autoclaves that are repurposed for kitchens. And also I think I forget who makes them here. Market forge pressure cookers that are basically like autoclaves that are meant for kitchens, but they're not often used outside of industrial institutional cooking here. And in Europe. They're used like Mills used to use them in Sweden on large amounts of potatoes. Okay. Hi, Dave statuto and Jack This is coming in from Arnie Skog and Norway. Listen your podcast yesterday made a few tips for the guy who asked about shrimp cakes and sausages. I'm Norwegian. In Norway. Fish cakes are traditional popular way of processing fish commonly made from cod how to component homemade fish cakes invariably use egg flour and potato starch as a binder. It is said that not using a binder renders them short that is grainy, commercially made fish cakes use different binders like tapioca and contain only from 40 to 60% fish. However, I've been experimenting on using a different approach wanting to use as much space as possible for flavor. And I've been using a method adopted from research I've done on sausage making. I read somewhere I think an article by Lynn Knapp, Associate Professor of Ohio State that the meat department that regulating the pH value of meat of meat is a good way of obtaining a good primary binding sausage, I lost the article in a computer crash and can't find it again. So this is from memory. The article says that relatively high pH and meat helps soluble solubilized myosin and meats it also says poor slaughtering practices can result in meat with a low pH value due to improper killing. And also for animals that freaked out when they die the pH can drop quick because they have none of glycogen in them anyway, this promotes the breakdown of glycogen in the muscles have a higher pH also increases the water holding capacity of proteins. Anyway, I've used this experiment of users information to experiment regulating pH and sausage meat. And I usually incorporate sodium carbonate in the salt About one to 2% by weight of salt and wonder whether it is actually mean sodium carbonate or whether it means bicarb I'm not sure. But look up Harold McGee on sodium carbonate versus bicarb is basically raising the pH of the meat. This greatly improves the binding capacity of the sausage sometimes too much, and the sausage becomes rubbery. In those cases, I add vinegar to the sausage meat and mix well which loosens the texture again, back to shellfish protein. I've used the same technique with fishcakes with good results and believe it be worth trying. It's interesting. I've also experienced the experience that the freshness of the fish is important, but I don't know if it's because of pH what you're talking about there. And he agrees with me on the grinding and stuffing and says you use a sausage stuffer, but they're expensive because the auger and a meat grinder heats up the meat again, you can buy inexpensive sausage stuffers in this country. If you go to like Harbor Freight or Northern tools or grizzly and buy sausage stuffers. They're intended for hunters. They're not as well built as the normal kitchen ones, but they'll work you can buy a five pound sausage stuff for under with a hand crank for under 100 bucks, I think. Okay, so the article is talking about what you should read is by Lynn LYNNKK and IP e Meat Export Research Center of Iowa State University, which is why you had problems and it's called the use of phosphates and sausage. Read it. It says a lot about phosphates which increases the water holding capacity and also helps that emulsification by altering the ionic balance in it. So go ahead and read it. Arnie will be in New York in February March of next year. Are there any classes he can take? I'm going to have Mustachio look into that and we'll talk about it next because I don't know what my classes are they told me like a day before and I just show up and cook them kindly. William writes in about milk howdy all I love making custard beta based ice cream I understand that tempering the egg yolks is a normal procedure especially for food safety. Are there other benefits to tempering the yolks? Why not use pasteurized egg CVS pasteurized or Davidson's brand pasteurizing and skip the tempering altogether? Also, I live next door to a dairy farm that offers raw milk and cream my country living folks tell me that I should still pasteurized the raw milk so I never bothered going there. I've never had raw milk doesn't really taste much better. Okay, first of all on the custard ice cream. There is a difference between like ones that haven't been cooked out and ones that have if you look at it a crumb on glaze bass is thicker than if you just blend the ingredients together. So I've never tasted side by side. Same recipe cooked normally versus not cooked. Okay, but like cooked actually to an on glaze. It's like Add to for 15 minutes in a su celsius for 15 minutes and circulator. However, I'm assuming that you're going to get a faster meltdown and the one that hasn't been cooked out just because there's a higher viscosity and the one that has been cooked that said, Sam Mason who's like an ice cream genius, like you know, like, like an ice cream savant, almost, he's crazy ice cream delicious, doesn't like the taste of cooked eggs and his customers and doesn't cook there for the customers. And I just start experimenting with low temperature, basically pasteurizing my ice creams at like 60 degrees Celsius or 62 degrees Celsius, which is what I did when I was in Colombia last. And they're great. So you know, I don't think that there's an order you can make and Sam makes some of the most delicious ice cream that I've ever had in my life. And that stuff. He doesn't he doesn't cook it out. So I think it's mainly a safety issue. And when I cook for myself, generally I just take this salmonella risk and eat it without pasteurizing but I've been having to cook for pregnant people recently. So I pasteurized stuff out now at like 60. Okay, on raw milk, does it taste better? Does it taste worse, I am going to defer to an Mendelssohn who wrote a book on milk. And her argument on raw milk versus not raw milk is is I think, incredibly well put. And she basically says that most people who talk about raw milk versus pasteurized milk come at it from some crazy perspective other than taste, and she is a taste person, she says she's had that most pasteurized milk that you get it's also homogenized. pasteurized milk, by the way, is bad in the supermarkets compared to what the best milk can be. However, just having it be raw, doesn't make it better. The best milks she's had have been raw milk, but they've been from, you know, very small, like producers who take a lot of care have the right kind of cows have the right kind of feed and XY and Z. So her main point, which is the best point and you so rarely read food writing, where people come at it from what I think is the correct point of view, which is, it's not, it's, you know, she's not starting from a preconceived notion of what's best. She's saying, hey, taste is the notion that I'm shooting for what makes it taste better. So she's had horrible raw milk, and she's had fantastic raw milk. And so go read her discussion of it in her book on milk, and see what you think. Chris Young, you know, from Modernist Cuisine, you know, interestingly points out that it tastes as a matter of taste in Africa, right, everyone likes the taste of what we think is ridiculously overcooked milk. And if you tried to give them milk that tasted close to coming out of the cow as possible, they would think it's awful because they prefer the taste of cooked milk. So taste is taste. While I was doing this, I looked up a website called Real Milk facts.com, which is a shill out for a law firm called Marla Clark. And this is a law firm that deals in food poisoning. So they're big on, they make they make money based on suing people as a result of food poisoning. That's sad. But they have some interesting things. And from them, I got to the CDC, the CDC is on a basically a crusade now to stop people from wanting to ask for raw milk, because they see that there's a huge surge in popularity in raw milk. Now among kind of health crunchies, and then taste advocates, and so they have a big thing. So look up real raw milk facts.com. And they point to these two cases of kids, I would never serve raw milk by the way to like a young kid, because if they get an E coli breakout problem with a young kid, there's lots of things you wouldn't serve to a young kid, other than just raw milk because of the possibility of of a breakdown. I'm not gonna have enough time to fully go through. So classes

are the only one they have online. And it's hard to find is cvwd, intensive September 28 29th of this month. I don't think they're doing hydrocolloids anymore. But if enough people

know we're supposed to teach one called Cooking issues, but like we never, never,

maybe you should take that over and do it at this space.

Anyway, I think I'm going to have to go more into this pasteurization, not pasteurization and health and not next week, but I would like to point you to a website before we go, that just when I was researching this stuff came across, and the NHS, which is the National Health Services of Britain, which by the way I grew up, completely frightened of, because my you know, my parents, well, you know, I grew up, my dad's an insurer, my mom's a doctor and my stepfather's doctors I grew up in kind of a doctor II kind of a household. And I'm not gonna have time to go into this, but But basically, so that, you know, when I was a kid, they were like, you know, you think that the health care in Britain is great, but if you're over the age of 65, and you need dialysis, they'd like to die. This was back in the like, at Saturday, it's probably not the case anymore. Anyway, whatever. I'm gonna get some calls on this crap. But an interesting website is put out by the NHS is called How to Read health news, or it's called choices behind the headlines and one of the articles in his how to read the health news by Alicia white, and we need a website like this in this country where it's basically they go and they debunk all of the health related claims that are made in The news. So like a big news story hits like, you know, gastric bypass surgery surges in the UK and then they'll go and they'll be like, No, it's not actually served because we're a nation of like, you know, millions and millions of people, and you know, increased from like 1000 to 3000. So yeah, it's like, three 300% more, but that's still like a drop in the bucket, stuff like that. And they they actually break down studies, and why they're crap. And then also say how the news media is misinterpreting scientific studies and not doing their research. So anyone involved in health care, and health and research should in the US should check out how they're doing it in Britain. And we'll talk more about that. Hopefully, we'll get a comment on it. And it's called, behind the headlines on the NHS website@nhs.uk. Look up how to read health news by Dr. Alicia white, and that maybe we'll talk more about it next week. If I'm back next week, we might have to skip a week depends on whether we have time when I'm at Harvard, and we're teaching on Tuesday. I don't think so midnight, Tuesday night. So then maybe we can do the show live from Harvard with Harold McGee cooking issues.

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