Cooking Issues Transcript

Episode 94: Curing Meat and Making Sausage


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Hello, and welcome to cooking issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of cooking issues coming to you live every tuesday from roughly 12 roughly 1212 45 here on the heritage radio network in the back of Roberta's pizzeria in Bushwick Brooklyn, joined with Joe and Jack in the engineering room this dosha hammer Lopez always sitting next to me how you doing guys? Good, good. Yeah. Yeah, everyone. Good. Good. So I'm glad I got to do today's show because right after we have our weekly Roberta's lunch with witness Darshan, I always enjoy thanks to the radio station. They give us the free lunch. That's what we work for your people by the way. case, we were wondering what the reward for the show is. It's the free lunch. But after that and go to the airport and going to Columbia, my favorite South American country. Of course, it's the only South American country I've gone to but it is central. Well here the Panamanians think Panama is South America, whereas because it's part of this skinny skinny skinny part, which I consider to be Central America I call Central American, but that kind of pisses them off because they consider themselves South American as like, if it's not Central America, then why did we you know what, why is the canal there? Because it's the skinny part. In fact, it's the skinniest part, the skinniest part? Right around, right? Yeah. Yeah. Anyway, so Panama being my favorite Central American country I've ever visited. And Colombia being my favorite South America but actually not just the only I do actually like Colombia quite a bit going to Bogota. And the great news is I'm going to look up your Luca Mystuff by the way even though they don't have it there they have a close relatives that can play with and I get to visit a coffee plantation in Armenia, which is in you know, the heart of Colombian coffee growing things. So I'm going to hopefully if there if it's there right now, pick some coffee. Do some fun stuff and report back next week with the news of coffee. Yeah. Okay, call your question is 27184972128 us at 184972128 got some questions from last week that I didn't do this one in from. Send your tray pause. I answered his question last week about krpano vermouth but don't believe I answered his question about cherries. I mentioned in making shelf stable machines or bourbon style or maraschino or bourbon style cherries. All the recipes I found called refrigerated storage for a period of weeks. I want to keep them at cellar temperatures for up to a year. Okay, well look. So the actual things that you buy in the store as Mara Tino cherries, what they do with those things is they they bleach the color and flavor out of them and make them stable in a solution of kind of like sulfur dioxide, which is a bleacher and a preservative and an antifungal, I think. And calcium chloride and calcium chloride is what gives maraschino cherries, that hardness, right? Because what the calcium is doing because of chloride is actually horrible cuz it tastes bad. But calcium chloride, what it does is the calcium helps to crosslink the pectin inside of the cherry and cause the the flesh of the cherries and not break down over time. Right. So that's why the calcium is there. Then they put it in food coloring and syrup over length of time to re infuse it with sugar, because it doesn't really have any much sugar left or flavor or anything like that. And that's not that's not the way to do it. That's horse that's horse hockey. Toby Cikini. The bartender, famous for the Cosmo. I think I did mention him last week in regard to cherries, but I gave a very abbreviated share if I talked about cherries at all the super abbreviated and I apologize. So he makes his own but I don't have his recipe. I wasn't able to get in touch with him and get his recipe but you want to look up the person to look up on this on the internet is Darcy O'Neill from the art of the drink, who also did fix the pumps, the incredibly influential book on kind of re bringing back stuff from the soda fountain days from the soda jerk days. And so Okay, so I'm going to compile all of these things. First of all, some of the patents online and Maris Marino cherries in the store are made with sweet cherries old style real chair, like like cocktail cherries are branded sour cherries, and this that's what I'm told. And Toby tells me that he's tested sweet cherries and sour cherries, IE or sour and or bitter cherries, like you know, Morelos and all those things. It says that the sweet ones are horrible and insipid. And the sour ones are the ones you want. And that's actually borne out if you get the Italian preserved cherries, they're the smaller kind, like you know, the the ones that we get in the blue ceramic jar whose name escapes me, but they're smaller and they you know, not that not the sweet style now, that if you want a good free guide to old cherry varieties at Cherry varieties prior to about 1920 Look up cherries of New York, you can get a PDF version online for free. It's like from the teens or 20s. And it's got full color pictures of all the cherry varieties that were grown in New York at that time, which is also a wide range of all the charity varieties that that existed but not all of them by by a longshot but ones that are available here in New York, from the Geneva Agricultural Experiment Station and I have actually have the whole collection in hard hard copy. Now listen, here's we're going to say I'm violently allergic to cherries, I can't eat them haven't been able to eat them since I was 30 to 31. So, so bear that in mind, don't like you know, like anything here. I can't actually test it for you because it'll kill me. Okay. Now, the trick with there's there's two tricks one, you want to keep the cherries firm, and two, you want to gradually preserve the cherry so that they don't rot. So typically, there's two things we add to cherries to preserve them sugar to increase the sugar content so that we're storing them high sugar so that they don't go bad. And two, we're adding an acid which is an antifungal, and the thing is basically a preserved antibacterial antifungal thing in the syrup, and three, you're going to add sugar, alcohol, whatever I forget 1234 Or five, whatever, like sugar, alcohol, sugar, alcohol, acid, and calcium. You're going to add to this but you have to do it carefully because you have to preserve the osmotic balance of the cherry so that they don't shrivel and or rupture and then come back and give you what the answers to that is. But I have a caller on the air caller you're on the air.

Dave, big fan. I had a question for you today about shellfish protein. Trying to make Top mon fish paste a little bit of eggs and curry fried delicious Thai street food and was thinking of trying it with shrimp paste in fact, have was thinking of frying it around some sugarcane from his when you grind up shrimp and shrimp paste off the little egg falls apart when you turn them out. And was curious, you know, realize though, maybe that's why crab cakes are much harder to keep together than burgers, but I was hoping you could shed a little light on what's going on. And if there's a relatively simple fix.

Hmm, well, I wouldn't have expected that. But, I mean, obviously, the easiest fix I mean, aside from actually figuring out what's going on in the recipe formulation is just to add a little bit of transglutaminase to it, like Aktiva rm and it would bind it you know, lickety split. Is there enough salt in there for the proteins to bind together?

Yeah. I had a pinch of salt everything having been had crazy amount, but in shrimp has some natural salt in it doesn't

know. Yeah, should and you process it long enough for it to get a good what looked like a good bind in the mix before you fried it? Yeah. It's very odd. But I know for a fact that shrimp with a little bit of transport terminates added to it. If you know you'd have to poach it probably first and a little in a little water stock to set the outside. But they won't break ever. Never. They will not break. I mean, that's what Wiley you know, does to make his shrimp noodles. And those things I've fried them and they fry fine. So I'm assuming that egg also containing protein wouldn't interfere with the bind with the with the hamsters so surprised. Although when you think about it, like I always when I'm doing things, I'd never do straight shrimp, like in my sausages and poaching mixtures for like fish canals. It's always fish, scallops and shrimp. Somewhat. So maybe there is something strange about about shrimp. But I mean, do you have access? I mean, you can from honors pantry, you can buy a fairly small amount of trans contaminates, and it's fairly easy to use, just sprinkle a little bit in, don't go I wouldn't. The maximum you can add is 1% by weight, but you don't need nearly 1% by weight, just just to keep it together. In fact, that might make it too firm.

All right. I will. I'll try it. But so there's I'm curious though, you know, what, why do crabcakes fall apart more easily than that a burger or something like that? There's something about seafood proteins that make them bind less than, than the meat?

Yeah, well, crab cakes. Remember crab cake is being formed from meat drinks when I make them that's already been cooked once. So there's not like a lot of the proteins already coagulated in it. And so the especially kind of the lump style crab meat that you're using the bigger, bigger chunks aren't going to want to bind together. So you know, in an in a native in a native on uncooked protein, it's hasn't been coagulated yet. You know, there's a lot of soluble, you know, liquid bound proteins, you add salt, more of those things come out. And they've kind of form a gluey, sticky matrix. And then when the heat sets, you know, sets them, it sets into kind of a salad matrix like a sausage, it's worse. But whereas something like crab meat, you know, it's already been set. So you can't you can't do it. Yeah, I mean, again, you can take crab meat and bind it with transglutaminase and get it to stick together. Or you could add some uncooked protein like fish protein to it to help bind you if you don't want to add other extenders. But the crab meat itself is never going to bind together as well. Just because

cooked. Okay, thanks.

I'll try it out. Matcha.

Cool, thanks. Alright, so back to cherries for a second. So here's what you want to do. If you go to Darcy O'Neill's website, the art of the training, which I first of all, highly recommend that you do, you should go to his website, I don't know spy, his, you know, acid phosphate. So to support the man is that, you know, he's doing very good work for all of us in the world of cocktail and technologies. And he's an actual scientist, I don't know if he still does science for a living or whether he just says cocktail stuff. Anyways, what you want to do is figure out about how much sugar in is in your cherry. And I don't really, I don't know that I trust his numbers 100% Because I've read other numbers but he's basically saying that the bricks equivalent bricks which is weight of sugar in in water for a cherry is somewhere on the on the order of five or six to 16 breaks, I've heard as much up to like, you know, up to 2020 to 22 breaks percent sugar on on one of the sweeter cherries. So you're gonna want to start with a sugar syrup only slightly more sugary than that. So wonder one simple syrup is going to be too much to start with, start lower and work your way up add acid, and Darcy says that Malik and citric are the two components that are mainly the acids in there. So you're going to want to add probably more malic and citric, although that's also what kind of limes tastes like. So you're going to want to add malic and citric acid, you're going to want to add sugar, right? And then you gradually increase the sugar content of the syrup. Now he says to make sure there's enough syrup in there such that the sugar content doesn't decrease too much because of the water that goes in but I would say go a little bit stronger. Add a little bit as you go get a strong syrup. And then after it's preserved in syrup, start doping in alcohol like super high proof ethanol until it gets to where you want it and then you should be good for a year but please go read Darcy O'Neill's posts on preserved cherries. Now we have a caller hope also. Caller you're on the air.

Hey, Dave. I just made about 20 columns of homemade sausage. And yeah, and I cooked it the way I usually cook sausage and there's like a link of each batch I made did like four different ones and they all turned out really mealy. And I did a little research and it says it's just from the fat breaking from taking making it to hearts. Right. And I'm wondering what why you know I can do it in a lower temp next time but I'm wondering why normal sausages don't break like that because the way the way I normally cook it is grounded on one side and a pan and then flip it and put a little water in the pan and cover it and then after about 10 minutes I take it off in lessons and then cook it until it's done. The brown a little more,

ya know what they're talking about with high temperatures and on the cook side, they're talking about high temperature on the make side. Okay, so like typically, I mean, what kind of sausage was it again?

Well, I did some, some Thai chicken with some ground up chicken thighs and a little fat back in there and then put Thai chilies and Thai basil. I did a turkey with dried cherries, a lot of stuff all out of the charcuterie book,

right? So yeah, but so not emulsified though regular like regular sausage mixers not not like meat into a batter emulsified, right? Meat. Fat, right? Okay. Yeah, I think are you partially Are you are freezing the meat and the fat before you grind it.

I tried to I don't have a great grinder though. And so it was kind of just making more of a pace than actual stuff a half of the half of the sausages I made I just bought from our local butcher shop, they make their own sausages. And they sold me a pre ground blend of you know, pork belly, pork shoulder and pork fat, you know, like 35% fat and they just told it to me pre ground, I wouldn't think that that would break as well.

And that that one's the one that went really the one that they did pre ground for you.

All of them did the ones I ground myself and the ones that they had pre ground.

I mean, that's like the cooking technique that you talk about the is you know, the old school, one pre pre poach, and then and then brown off. Right. That's what you said you do. That's what I that's what I typically do. And if I don't have a circulator, I mean, that's good technique. So that's not that's not doing it. So it's got to be I mean, typically, when you're looking at sausage manufacturer, there's the main things are do you have a high enough fat content? Which you do you ask you got it? Right? Do you have a high enough salt content to get a good bind going? Because that will also mean it won't bind together? Well, if you don't have a high enough salt content, because the salt is what's allowing the proteins to kind of come out and form that that bind in the sausage mix, right? So was it bound, right, it's not bound, right, it's going to be more like you know, compressed hamburger meat, right? Thread three was the temperature of the of the fat and whatnot cold enough when it was ground, so you're not getting weird smearing effects, and then you'll get a lot of, you know, if the fat tissue is disrupted and melted instead of you know, ground cleanly, then you'll bleed the fat out and you'll be left with dry and meat leanness, so that the temperature of the of the meat is important. And you know, proper trim is important when you grind it. And thirdly, the temperature is vitally important in emulsified sausages, because you're making an emotion and the emotional break if it gets too hot. And really those those are the main factors that I always mean, not that I'm a huge expert in it, but those are the main factors that I always look for in troubleshooting a sausage problem to see what's gone wrong. But from what you've told me, I can't really figure out what you know, I can't really figure out which one of those kind of like main precepts of sausage making were violated, especially because you say you've done it before without problem, right.

Yeah, and I mean, that's, you know, when I cook regular commercial sausage, they never break the way I cook them. So I was wondering if they added something to it. And you know, to keep it from doing that, or if it's just messed up somehow, this time,

you can add things to sausage to keep them from breaking but you shouldn't have to do you know what I mean? So like anything you add to a commercial sausage, anything that's added to things to stabilize them or they're to just in case somebody happens to abuse them like Carageenan or things like that, but they're they shouldn't ever be necessary to to produce a good sausage I mean, the only things necessary are high fat content, proper temperature regulation during manufacture and proper salt content. And of course proper fat type if you add a fat that's been rendered that's going to be horrible the fats already been rendered once you know it's never going to come back to its native form and then the fat won't hold in properly. All the fat will bleed out and it's going to be a huge nightmare. You know, mean like like you had you weren't using like you were using you said fat back.

Yeah, I got fat back from the local butcher shop and chop it up and put it in the freezer. But I was using a new it's actually a vintage grinder I got from my dad it's a it's a rival sausage grinder, but it seemed like it was really maybe grinding too much where the bat wasn't making coming out in little chunks more than when it was coming out and almost a pace been taken. I might ground the fat too much.

Yeah, if the fat was like came out like a meat again, like it's hard to know like if it comes out as a paste and you're breaking it up too much then perhaps a you know you would need to treat it then more like an emulsified sausage. If that breaks and those that weeps out right. Then you're you know, it's not going to so anytime you have fat fat isn't you know, obviously That's not just fat. Fat is a mixture of fat and connective tissue and a bunch of other things. And so when it's native, it'll hold itself kind of in place properly, and when it's been melted out, then it's never going to hold itself, right, which is why you want to make, which is why they don't want the fat to get smeared when you're grinding when you're grinding for sausage. But maybe the blade isn't sharp on the on the on the grinder, you might sharpen the blade and look at just making sure you're getting good, good contact, it should, it should grind clearly and shouldn't come out warm at all, or like a paste. You know what I mean?

Yeah, I think that the problem is, it's something from back in the 70s. And it hasn't been sharpened for 30 years.

Right? I mean, those should work like the old portrait style arrival. They're all the same with the they look like they look like the KitchenAid but the barrel it looks like it's been pulled out in Photoshop. Right? One of those guys. Yeah, yeah. And they're like, you know, they're like, like, shiny, shiny tin plate cast iron those guys. They should work. You know, it's just maybe the blade wasn't sharp. You should also put the grinder in the freezer as well. So the grinder is cool. But it sounds like maybe that's what what happened is that you may be you know, the site went wrong with the fat back. And it just didn't, it didn't grind, right, pace it out and then and then leaked on you when you cooked it.

So there's no salvaging it. I took some you know, some leftover made burger type, you know, uncased and fried them up and those seem to taste all right. What about the case? Me?

Yeah, yeah, you could do that. Or, you know, I mean, the real problem is, is that if you had super accurate temperature control, you might be able to cook them at like a straight, like a 140. And then like, let's do a quick sear off on the outside without melting it out too much, but I don't know I'd have to see because I don't really know at those temperatures, you know, some of the pig fat will remain semi not super liquid. It'll all liquefy but not like super liquid and you might get it to not kind of run everywhere and go crazy. But yeah, I think maybe breaking it up might be breaking it up and making patties out of it might be the way to go.

Thanks for Hellboy

Hey, thanks and let me know next time you try whether fixing that solid alright cool All right, cool. You do all right. So listen, Jack Why don't we go to our Joe I don't know who's there right now. Why don't we go to our first commercial break with cooking issues Whoa whoa whoa whoa, whoa, oh, oh. Oh, oh. Oh oh.

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Hello, and so that the band Jack tells me that is fellow radio show host Damon bowties band called brothers because Damon Balti has a twin brother, who apparently is also in the band. It'd be funny if he had a band called brothers and his twin brother wasn't in the band, that that'd be more funny. I think I think maybe he should do that. They should have some sort of rift, but you should go definitely go check them out and see them if you're really into seeing nine feet tall. Skinny. Bartenders play music, right. He is kind of really tall man. He's like as tall as Tristan. Yeah, he's tall man. How tall would you say? Damon is taller than me? Gotta be a good six three. Yeah, yeah. How does he does he fit into the chairs here in the studio? He does. Yeah, yeah. Yeah, he's never been on my show. I've never been on his show. You know why he hates me? I know. I know. He doesn't hate me. I'm just kidding. He's a good man.

They've been talking to who said that they would like to be on the show is Tosi. Yes. He

told me, I would love that. Yeah, we'll do that. And back to Daymond for a second. Do you know he makes an excellent old fashion we wear the fact

that while I

assumed as much excellent, excellent official that

is old fashioned.

They're, they're very delicious. He made what was the old fashion he made first at the museum event. I remember it was damn good. Yeah, it was like he was like, he was like, he doesn't talk like this. He's like, I'm gonna do some really simple some make an old fashion is gonna be delicious crap on you guys isn't talking to like Dave not like that. But listen, speaking of old fashions and cocktails and food, you need to come to heritage radio network.org members only party September 9 Between five and 8pm at Roberta's Roberta's Roberta's pizza 261 Moore Street in Brooklyn, New York. There will be food from Gramercy Tavern back 40 West Del Posto Momo sushi inside Parque parish hall Heritage Foods USA catered by Roberta's sea to table Saxelby cheesemongers inherited meet stop Cocktails by no no to me, Dave Arnold, a buco Mezcal Galliano, Absolut Vodka, Plymouth gin, and beers you a champagne, beer by great brewers.com, greenport harbor brewing, and Kane Vineyard and Winery. Buy your tickets for $150 What does the VIP ticket get you, brother?

But wait, before we get there? If you enter cooking issues Hrn at the checkout, we'll give you $25 off.

Holy crap. $25 off. Yeah, and there's gonna be plenty of food and drink here, right? Oh, yeah. I mean, like a lot, right? Like to get the VIP

get a little private tour of a chocolate factory in the neighborhood. There'll be some special cocktails that won't be available at the party just for the VIP. But a whole bunch of other surprises. So

and by that we mean a special means Miss Dasha won't skylight when she gives it to you. Right? She'll smile at you. Yeah, yeah. And then you can have both experiences, you can come during the VIP section and get the smile and then come back during the regular section and get scaled out so you can get the double. That's the only

private concert from Joe and his band. Big, stupid VIPs I'm not sure that's not confirmed, not

confirmed, but possible. Possible. And there'll be raffle tickets there for $25 The VIP I think I mentioned is $250 Now listen, listen, I don't know whether you notice whether you listen but I believe that every time we say we say heritage radio.org And what that means is is that we are a nonprofit here at Heritage radio, which means we need some money to keep this going we need to make sure that we have people in the engineering booth making this stuff happen this stuff ain't free people Jack my write about this not free I wish it was free it's not free. And you know we have you know sponsors, but listen to sponsors we take our sponsors that we believe in that and you know this it's not we're not a commercial we're not a commercial thing here where anyone can come and just you know plunk down money it's not the way it operates. This is like the we operate more like PBS we take kind of good people's money when they want to give it to us and then we rely on you guys for the rest. Is this true? Or is this false? you're nailing it. Yeah, okay, so listen, please sign up come to the party. I'll try to get in a stash and even smile at the non VIPs but you know No, no, no guarantees you

know if somebody buys a ticket now Joe might be able to get lunch today

oh man. Yeah, but it's gonna be a good lunch if he gets a ticket now. Buy the ticket and be good lunch. Yeah, okay. Now otherwise you like you feed him out of what the scraps bins here at Roberta's? Like when people leave a slice of pizza. Like that's what you guys get.

Yeah, exactly. Scrap snacky tunes.

Yeah, you're gonna help these guys are what people please. All right. Speaking of Joe writes in Joel Gargano writes in with a big shout out to Joe and big ups. effing awesome is what he said he is actually interested in starting another band with you. And doing the old mosh pit. You'll bring in bringing mosh pits back they still do. Do they still have mosh pits nowadays?

Yes, they do. There. We have some mosh pits, but I think you're supposed to be in this band today. Oh, really? I think he wants he wants you in it too.

All right. I mean, do they still the mosh pits like like what level of mosh pit are they now do they do they are the frat boys still they're actually trying to knock people over or is it more like it used to be

well it depends on you know where you're where you're performing but you know sometimes you get some people that are just you know going to kick the crap out of me and get kind of scared

Yeah, but but there's kick the crap out of yeah, there's there's kick the crap out of and then there's kick the crap out of you know what I mean? Right. There's like the fun get the crap kicked out of you. Yeah, like if you take a nose Yeah, if you take like a Doc Martin to the face, because someone's flying over your head. Like that's all in good fun as far as I'm concerned,

but if there's like some guy who's just like, you know, red in the face and steam coming out of his ears, he just looks at you and just stares you down. And he's you know, this guy's just coming after you. Yeah, D bags,

everyone for everyone. zactly and then I guess go hide the bathroom. Yeah, that's what's Week. This week's us listen to they still do crowd surfing in the mosh pits these days. Oh, damn. Generally, that's good to see something's hadn't changed. Yeah. All right. So now another question from from Joel. What's the best way to get coffee flavor into beer we want to use a local roasters beans and not buy a premade extract. My brother just began operations at a brewery here in Connecticut thimble Island brewing. Like to try their product. Maybe someone could send us something Malone brewing product, right? Right, right. It's only in Connecticut very close to us. And we're doing a number of tests to see the best way to infuse coffee into a stout and hold off the overly bitter bitter slash acidic flavors. I'm thinking cold extraction is best suited. You're correct. I went through the infusion posts on the Cooking issues blog and got some good ideas. Yet nothing has proven to be tasty on its own. Here's what I did for testing before I attempt to get the coffee flavor into beer. Made an extract in room temperature water at 100. To one I can't really understand this thing, but 250 grams of coarse ground coffee, medium roast. And did like three minute one minute infusions in the ISI Whipper with charges and then blah, blah, blah, blah, blah. Anyways, your numbers here are way too. Not long, way too not long. What's the right word for that? Way too short, short is what I'm looking for. And stash actually helped me with that. She gave me this look. And I was like, Oh, yes, short. But when people are doing cold brew in the ISI, they're doing it usually for a much, much longer period of time. When I do it, I do it for two minutes, three minutes, because I'm using alcohol and not water. Right? So you could actually do a straight infusion into alcohol or you could take much longer and infuse it into water. And you had this question right here. You're like, should I change the liquid medium? Yes. Should we toss the whole beans into the fermenter and hope for the best? No, I would not do that. If I what I would do is look your beers. I don't know what your beers are coming in at. But if they let's say they're coming in at like 556 percent alcohol somewhere in there, 7% Eight, whatever. I'm usually extracting into 20% alcohol or sorry, 40% Alcohol. So my infusions with coffee are very strong. And they happen very quickly. Even at room temperature under an ISI infusion regime. I know people that have done cold infusion of coffee into water and liquor in huge, huge by my standards, five gallon containers like corny kegs. But they're letting it sit a lot longer with your low alcohol percentage, you are going to have to go a lot longer now. Let me give it a shot. But my problem with it if you make super concentrated extracts is they tend to go they tend to go bitter. If you're allowed to use an alcohol based extract, then you could do an alcohol based coffee extract and dope it in afterwards. Right? Just use isI with with high proof and that's going to be because if you're actually going to do this in a commercial fashion, you're going to have a difficult time you know infusing the entire amount of each batch of coffee that you make now. You also say I grabbed a Starbucks via packet which is there like supposedly high grade version of you know, freeze dried coffee, I've never tried it and poured some into a Guinness it tasted pretty good. Is that a better route? I know Wiley uses that stuff and sauces and whatnot. I don't know whether he does not actually haven't talked about this interesting. So how can I make it myself that's that's just freeze dried coffee. Then you ask lastly, what about this guy and you know, obviously the readers can't be a viewers can't wherever they are can't see it. But it filtered a beer a beer through a bunch of beings before carrying or bottling and you post a link to the Randall so what a Randall is a Randall in beer in beer parlance is almost a modified water filter that was developed by the Dogfish Head brewery people to do post infusion they were they developed it for hops and what you're doing is running the beer out of the keg through a container full of hops that infuses on its way out to the tap. Now the issue with it and people have done a lot of coffee in it to add coffee flavors to it you have to use whole beans with something like that because ground beans are going to cause wicked foaming wicked wicked foaming. So you need to use whole beans in that and I don't know how much beer you can filter through it and get the same taste how long it needs to sit, etc etc. So I haven't run any tests with it, but there's plenty of people doing it. There's lots of links out there on how to build a Randall with parts that you can buy in a regular hardware store along with things you could buy at a homebrew shop and what they all amount to is modifying water filters so that you can run the run the beer through the water filter on the way out to the tap now. The Dogfish Head guys realize that filming is a big problem because the filming is going to be a big problem when you do that. And so their new version which is on their website and you can see it and they tell you the parts you need to build it but they don't think they build it for you. Is has the initial infusion chamber and then a secondary chamber with ice surrounding it to keep the temperature down. That's an anti anti foam chamber. So that's an interesting thing. Go look at Randall and it's named after Randall the enamel Randall the the enamel eating whatever blah, blah blah because the first thing had so much hops in it when they put it through it that they said it ate the enamel off of your teeth and those guys that Dogfish Head have to come up with crazy names for everything, they just can't help themselves, they can't help it. So go look that up and try making some extracts with higher proof ethanol or doing it a lot longer with water or you could do that a lot longer with water in five gallon batches like ours or maybe you know, hours and hours or maybe overnight or do traditional grind and then like Kyoto style cold cold brewing anyways, let's take one more commercial break and we'll come back with cooking issue

let's use black sky Hello This is Mark ladder from top posto and you're listening to heritage radio here yeah

yeah, Mark Ladner calling it out. What do you think they're stopped? Do you know that he Yeah, he did a he did a shout out for

Hello, this is Mark Lambert from Del Posto and you're listening to heritage Radio Network.

Glad nerd that's by the way, like that's like if you ever asked him Stasha question like her like the only honest answer she can ever give you a man wasn't listening. That wasn't listening. Yeah, right. All right. So a question from before we missed from Andrew Marcus on gummy candies. Hey, gang, I've recently been trying to make gummy candies at home but running into some issues, so I thought I'd just defer to you before spending more money on other ingredients that might just lead to more dead ends. Ideally, I'd rather not use gelatin for my veggie friends and potentially not have to cook it so much to preserve the delicate flavors. Nothing specific yet in other words on the delicacy of the flavor is just a preference. After reading around it looks like the only way to achieve the first half ie vegetarian is with cornstarch or pectin with which boasting required tons of sugar and require lots of heat. But maybe I'm way off. I was working with Joanne low ASA and highest Magellan previously but haven't been able to get anything nearly chewy enough with good elasticity and shear. Do you have any advice usage rates for those hydrocarbons would be awesome too. Oh, if I can make it even more complicated. Is there any way to add alcohol to the recipe or would that increase the liquid portion too much and make the gel too loose? Thanks for any help. You can give Andrew Marcus okay. You're not going to have any actual alcoholic candy that's gummy because by the time you get the solids level high enough you're not going to have much alcohol left in it at all. You can make things that are hard like rocks really jelly gel gel gel that have blessing that have fairly high alcohol. The limit with most hydrocolloid and higher concentrations to get good gel strength is about 20% alcohol in the final finished thing I've done with some hydrocolloid higher like I've done fluid your egg our fluid gels at like 25 28% then had gotten them to work alcohol especially the AF to add the alcohol later with regard because alcohol can't be boiled at AG are setting you know ag our temperatures to well brains gone today the temperatures are required to get the I got a functional hydrate there we go you you the alcohol will boil off before those temperatures happen so most things that are said but you can do like an fluid gel it's pretty high in alcohol using Aguilar or any any one of those things and you can set gels with them with a high enough if you had a high enough out not too high and alcohol my brain is so Friday crazy anyways, so but you're not going to get something that's a gummy candy that has actual appreciable amounts of alcohol in it although it can have the flavor the base flavor of an alcohol just by adding it and boiling off all of the water and alcohol in it. Okay, so that's that part of the question. Also low as well in high school Joanne mixed mixes, you're not going to be able to get the look you can get very good gelatin replacement with highest Loisel gelatin in the ratios that are normal for gelatin, but in the super high ratio that's an A gummy candy of gelatin in there. It's not going to have the same texture there that gelatin will so I don't think you're going to be barking up the right tree with that I've looked into other hydrocolloid replacers to do gelatin replacement and the one most people use seems to be ag are Agha also mean having done high high percentage alcohol sorry high percentage Aguilar gummies before there's not going to get the right amount they're not going to get the right texture with that you might be able to I haven't looked it up I wasn't able to check it out but there are kappa carrageenan Lucas being dumb mixes and you can actually use Aguilar and Lucas Bingham but it's not quite the same but and go to CP Kelco and look up their gelatin replacers or call them CP Kelco and they might have a kappa Carageenan slash locust bean gum and the cap is providing the gelling, and the locust bean gum is getting it to act more like more like gelatin make it softer. They might have a mix that can be used at a high end at a high enough ratio to allow it to do gummy candies, but I don't know. And I doubt it's ever going to have the stretch and pull of a gummy bear I mean, you might get something similar. Now the real awesome one is as you say, pectin, but you do have to cook the crap out of pectin to get it to work what you could do is cook the bulk of it and overcook it slightly and then add super concentrated fresh flavors back and an a stash and I did that years ago with we wrote a wrapped strawberry fresh strawberry juice down to the high hybrid syrup, overcooked pectin and sugar and then mixed it in. We never achieved hard thing we achieved like a toffee, but it was the most delicious Have you ever had in my life like I wish I had that right now is so delicious, was just really hard for us to calculate exactly what the bricks was because what you're doing when you're boiling is taking it to a certain temperature but what you're really shooting for is a certain liquid content. And pectin requires high acidity and a high solids content. And that's why you have to cook it, you don't want to cook it. You can't cook it quickly because if you cook it quickly, you're going to scorch the fruit at the bottom which is the problem why everything has been done slowly and more mellow Lee, but you know, maybe you can get away with adding a little bit you know, after the fact after it's been cooked up the temperature as long as you get to the ratios right. So sorry, I couldn't be super helpful but but there Yeah, there you have it. Okay. And I'm gonna have to rock through these are Jack's gonna pull my microphone out because it's just the kind of guy he is. Remember, we don't have enough money to keep my microphone plugged in. I'm just kidding. I have another show coming on. It's actually what the story is. Okay, I have a question in from this from Paul. In one of the cooking News Radio episodes, David mentioned that he uses a particular sharping stone, it's proving impossible to find the name by going back through all the episodes would it be possible to email me the name I think was three initials or an acronym or three this was well better than that. Here it is in the real life. d M T. I use duo sharp DMT diamond whetstones when you're buying a whetstone none of the real hardcore knife people use this and I'm gonna say I'm a bad human being for using it. But when I actually sharpen everyone's like, man, it's pretty freakin sharp. It's pretty freakin sharp. You want to get the largest stone you can possibly get, because that's going to make sharpening large stones easy. The one I have a lot of one of the reasons why a lot of knife aficionados hate it is because it's got an interrupted pattern in it. And and that makes for easier clearing and less kind of gumming up with the abrasive as you're working. But like real real hardcore people don't like it. I like it fine. What I like about this one is it stays flat forever. It's very thin. It's not very heavy. It's unbreakable, unworkable, and doesn't need to be dressed. So I get the two in the 10 inch duo sharp I buy it in. I buy it in fine. We want to get his fine slash extra fine, which is 25 micron grip on the fine side and nine micron grit on the other. I think I've also said before, and if you're a freaking psycho, and you like super high, like polishing stuff out DMT now makes an eight inch stone unfortunate not a 10 that is like a straight diamond with no interrupted holes that has a super extra find three micron grit which is like insanely small that's as small as most of the high end Japanese stuff now take it to a Polish but as I've said many times before Japanese grits and American grits don't correlate with each other the Japanese grit numbers being higher for the equivalent thing than an American Grit number. And secondly, an actual grid number isn't necessarily going to indicate everything it indicates a certain particle size, but not a spread and distribution of particle sizes nor how they are bound to the substrate. So there's a lot to be known. And what I really recommend you all do if you're interested in abrasives is go to the unified abrasives manufacturer Association, you a ma.org and go to their section called abrasive grains 101. And they have a great little web thing in the jig on kind of what is actually going on, like what the grains look like what the different materials are, why you would use different materials and what that means but if you just want the simple answer, go get a T A DMT 10 inch duo sharp green slash red. Yeah, yeah. Okay. And we got one last thing of a jig in from Chris Who says and he just calls you out. He just says, Hey, mustache doesn't give a crap about the rest of us does not care anyway.

Yeah. rumen and Paulson just released their latest on salumi and in fact, I just got it. I just got the new salami book. Is it actually out yet or not? Do you know? Yeah, anyway, I have it. I have it, you know, because I got it. I got it. Anyway. Rolling and post and just released the latest on salumi, I go into some fair detail on whole pig butchery, curing, etc. Where it comes up a little short is on specifics for curing chambers. How much airflow? Do you need mechanisms for controlling humidity, minimum practical sizes, etc? Do you guys have a good reference for someone trying to set up a small slash trial and development scale chamber, I want to give some COPPA and largest shot lardo, I guess before committing to a larger setup for the shop. So is it going to have to live in an apartment until I can convince the boss it's ready for primetime. Also, in what may be a long shot, the website for National Center for a home food preservation publication seems to have been shut down. Any chance you are Dave has a copy of the cured meats dot pdf reference to the November 15 2011 radio show, I think are no place to grab it. Okay, so I went on the national, I went on the National Center for Home curing food preservation. And I didn't go get to go back to listen to what I said. But most of their publications are backups. So I don't know if you had a temporary problem whether it was temporarily broken and now it's back. But if it's still down, I'll look for this specific one that you need to find some of them are organized in a wonky way. Like you have to click next next next to get through it and you can't download it easily, but it seems to be there. Now, back to Roman Polson, one of the great things I saw about it is they actually very early in the book said something that people need to say more often. They said, when you're making salumi in America, do not try to make Italian salumi in America make American salami. I think that's a great, great thing. So for instance, Sam, Sam Edwards, our good friend and one of the benefactors of the Heritage radio. He sells his hands as Suriano trying to piggyback on Serrano style hands, which I think is a mistake. And I've told him this to his face. There's nothing he doesn't like already know that, I think is a mistake. Because I think American hams are amazing, delicious. They're their own product, they shouldn't be compared to Spanish hams. They shouldn't be compared to Italian hams. They're American products. And the same goes with if you're making salumi here, don't try to make an Italian product make what make an American mean, you can use Italian techniques that you should be shooting, if you're trying to shoot to make somebody else's product and all you're ever going to be is a runner up to their product. If you try to make your own product, then you get to be the best at that. And you can focus on what makes it better what makes it worse. Which isn't to say you don't respect and love the procedures, techniques and flavors that someone uses in a place like Italy. But I'll tell you what, fog told us what's the Imperial tea court right as an emphasis placed us. We went out and visited. He's growing tea in California now. And I asked him I said what do you want the tea to taste like he said was probably the most profound thing he could say about this. He says I wanted to taste like California wants to taste in other words, he wants to make tea that tastes like what tea should taste like when it's grown to the best of its abilities in California. Anyway, so that was a good point, that woman and Polson brought up in that but then let's go on to your actual question. If you want to see what real badass curing technology is like before I get into your actual answer see how long it takes me to get into an actual answer. It's ridiculous that she's shaking her head and given me her I hate your face. Okay. The Italian company travel uni which is fino spelled Travaglini travel uni right are the world's greatest curing drying aging in like ham and salumi production equipment machine people in the world they are the best bar none. They are amazing. In fact, they're the company I always point out when I say that technology can be used for good in the production of food rather than just for making it cheaper because these guys have developed curing rooms and aging rooms that are specifically designed to mimic what goes on they originally built it around what goes on in Parma like an apartment ham. So they they get humidity. They get temperature, they cycle, the humidity and the temperature inside the place to mimic the day in day to day night day in and out changes and seasonal changes in the Hamptons because that's what's what's driving the aging in a lawn care process like ham is not just the humidity and the temperature but the shift in humidity and temperature from both season to season and through day night. Okay, so look at their stuff if you want to see some real bad Asri Okay, now, you're true, you're exactly correct. In the book I looked and they all do ever rather. It's a paltry kind of amount of information on how to make a curing thing. Remember this, the smaller curing chamber is the less it's less stable it's going to be over time. People really and they do mention this a lot which is probably why they don't really go into it too much. People love their curing rooms going back to Sam Edwards I talked about before. He has a number of curing houses for his hands and he says he can know which you could do blindfold him, bring him into one. And he'll know which one it is based on smell because hearing houses develop their own set of micro flora and fauna, I guess, over time, and those are going to influence the flavor of each one of the products. So it's incredibly important. So you're not going to get probably a stability of flavor in a small thing, because it's too easy to push a small item one way or the other. Same way, it's hard to get a small fish tank to stay in good shape forever, because if it goes a little bit off, it goes way off. Whereas larger fish tanks can be more self corrective, because they're larger systems. That said, if you want to if you want to basically just Hey, say, hey, look, you don't want you said airflow, I don't have a lot of data right now on airflow, but you need, you don't want too much airflow, because it's going to cause case hardening on the outside drying off. But you know, some might be there, but for the best deal in control of a small setup. And by that, I mean, you're going to convert a fridge to an ageing chamber, or you're going to convert, you know, I don't know some sort of like a small box, that I could not believe what a cheap deal it is. And they're going to be back in stock. They say in in September on September 20, go to our instruments have used one of their things, it's fine. It's okay. They're the cheapest people in the world, Arbor instruments. And check this out for 97 bucks, they have a plug and play temperature and humidity controller that already has the sensor on it. So what you do is you just plug in a humidifier or dehumidifier and a heating element into it and the handle up to 10 amps and put it in and just dial in what you want it to be right. So there's two ways you can do this. If you know that your chamber is always going to have too low of a humidity, then you can attach a humidifier to it and Jack the humidity into it. If you know that the humidity is always going to be two to get together to be sorry, that's going to be too humid then you can add a dehumidifier to it. So another way you could do it for instance, you can set the humidity of a chamber by doing something like if you go to Google saturated salt solution, our H standing for relative humidity. So sodium NaCl. So you know sodium chloride table salt saturated solution, if you have a saturated solution that's sitting in your chamber, the chamber is going to Aquila rate to 75% humidity. So if you want lower than that, then you could put a dehumidifier on that sucker. And you know that you're always going to need to dehumidified slightly to get it down to 60 or 70% Humidity when you're when you're going. If you know if the other way to do it is if you know that you're always in a relatively non human environment, you could put a fan which moves a little bit of air out of it to keep the humidity down and then put a humidifier attached to it that makes it human as it goes but but but but but so that's that's the way I would go about doing it and it's cheap and it should work. We'll see you when you get back when I get back from Columbia cooking issues.

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