Cooking Issues Transcript

Episode 86: Frothy Lulo


Hello, everybody, and welcome to a brand new series on heritage radio network called the culinary call sheet where we give a peek into the back kitchen of culinary media. I'm your host, April Jones,

and I'm your co host, Darren bresnitz. Part of why we started the show was to offer an unofficial mentorship for anyone who's interested in learning about all aspects of food and video, whether that's TV, social media online, or just something you want to do for fun.

Absolutely what was once niche or a little silly, as I'm sure you remember, Darren, when we started out, this man has now become such a massive playing field for so many creatives using food as the medium.

It's something that has driven us professionally and personally, for so many years. What excites me the most about this show is that we're going to sit down with some of the industry leaders to hear how they made it and what drew them into this industry.

With 20 years in the culinary production game ourselves. We're hoping we can give through these conversations an insider's view into personal stories from the field, as well as an in depth behind the scenes look into some of the most popular food programming. In today's evolving culinary media landscape.

We'll be covering everything from how to style your food, to how to license IP, to developing your own ideas, and some tips from the masters of how to host your own show.

Yeah, it's a little bit of conversation, how to and how do you do the things that you do in color media, which I'm so excited about? I love so many of the guests that are coming on this season. We have talent from Food Network from Vice media eater refinery 29,

we've met some of the best people in the world both in front of and behind the camera. And we're bringing them all together to share their stories, their delicious adventure and their unique journey into this crazy world.

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broadcasting live from Roberta's in Bushwick, Brooklyn, you're listening to heritage Radio network.com.

Today's show is brought to you by Hearst ranch grass fed beef available on the internet at Hearst ranch.com.

Hello and welcome to cooking issues this is Dave Martell, your host of cookies coming to you live from a British person in Baba Baba Bushwick on the heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from roughly 12 to roughly 1245 Estancia hemmer live has not with us today, not with us. She is flying home as we speak her plane is being bandied about in the turbulence over the Atlantic Ocean. She took her little sister to Switzerland over the weekend in Switzerland, like that check. Nice, nice, nice anyway, call your questions. Cooking non tech tech. Anything really any question? We'll take any question right Jack? 27184972128. That's 718-497-2128 Now, we don't have anyone you read.

We had somebody call in when you weren't here. But hopefully he'll call us back in a few minutes. Because I said

in the Twitter I said 1205 Because I made it to 12 Oh, I was here at 12 If I you know okay, that's late. It's acceptable. I realized that however, I'm slightly proud of myself. I made a a Dave Arnold fat lazy out of shape. World Record for biking from my apartment in the lower Eastside to Bushwick, 15 minutes flat seems like the studio's impressed. Yeah, almost died didn't almost kill anyone. Oh, that's my main thing. It's like, you know, me my safety not as important as not endangering the safety of pedestrians around me. Okay, so I have a bunch of questions from last week as Twitter questions coming in. You can, unfortunately, since the stash is here, I can't really check the Twitter during the show, but we're at cooking issues. That's how you tweet us or whatever the hell you call it. Ruby kidsguard

at Heritage radio and we can get it heritage underscore radio. Does that work? Does that happen? That works that happens.

Okay. Okay, so from a couple of weeks ago, Rob tre Paz wrote in about process cheese. I want to make a cheese sauce using melting salts, which we'll talk about in a minute. If I'm out of breath, it's because I'm out of shape. By the way, if you hear like, It's me trying to catch my breath anyway. I see in Maurice cuisine, they use whey protein concentrate. And now for those of you that don't know Maurice cuisine, we've talked about it we've had all three authors write on the show

all three Yes, we have not in studio but we've had them all to have them in studio to them in studio right

Nathan hasn't been in the studio yet. He should sometime next time he's in New Yorker sir twisted his arm get him in. You know, whatever. Most ambitious, biggest cookbook undertaking all time, I'd have to say probably all the time it kind of rivals back when, you know, the pope used to, you know, have someone make the Sistine Chapel it just didn't matter how much it costs or how much time it took that kind of thing, only with a cookbook anyway. So he has the recipe they're talking about, there's a cheese sauce. I think there's several cheese sauces in the Modernist Cuisine, where they're basically using the techniques of process cheesemaking to make better tasting higher end things anyway. So Rob writes, and I have sodium citrate and whey protein isolate. My understanding is that the whey protein concentrate has the lactate sugars, and the Isolate has the sugars removed, what function does the concentrate having this recipe? And can I substitute isolate or simply leave it out? Other recipes call for Joe Ha, SDS to sodium phosphate? What is it? What does it do? Where do you get eccentric cetera? Okay, look, I did a lot of research on processed cheese over the past couple weeks. It's a subject I haven't researched in a while, but I find extremely interesting. wildly different. By the way, my brother in law chef at WD 50, loves themselves from American cheese. Were you aware that Did you know that loves American cheese and eggs, and he's not afraid to admit it, I'm not like letting the cat out of the bag, like, like I do with Natasha, he will freely admit it. Take a sip of water and breathing. Breath. Okay. The way you make a process Jesus, You take Jesus, and you add what's called a melting salt to them. And the melting salt is also called an emulsifying salt. And unlike a normal emulsifier, which has one part of a molecule that loves fat, and another part of a molecule of the molecule that loves water, and thereby makes it easier for water, and fat to live together, that's where the most fire does, or air and water or Arafat, etc, etc. Anyway, it's not really like that what it is, is it's like sodium citrate is one polyphosphates or another. And what they do is they actually make it easier for the they unbind the casein so there's casein, which is the protein in in milk solids. That causes cheese to bind together to coagulate and it basically re solubilizes the casein and allows the casein to become an emulsifier. So these emulsifying salts, these melting salts, modify the casing and make it easier for it to be runny and spreadable and meltable. all that great stuff. Now, you might be surprised to note that older cheeses, the ones that you typically would assume don't melt very well actually need the least amount of emulsifying salts in them because their proteins are most broken down. It's actually young cheeses, the ones that you think would melt very easily, then, in fact, are very difficult to make a very smooth melted processed cheese out of and that's why to go back. Jack, are you familiar with fondue? What's that? Are you familiar with fondue? Do you know what the cheese of choice for fondue is? I don't agree. Where is it? Yeah. Why? Well, Greer is an aged cheese, right. So even though it's very high fat, and high fat cheeses melt very easily. Also, it's very age and so the proteins are breaking or broken down more than they would be in a very young cheese and hence, even though it's an aged cheese, it melts extremely well makes it fun. Do Do you know what else you had to find? Do Jack? No. White wine, you know, why don't because it's the tartrate in from tartaric acid in wine that provides the natural emulsifying salt to make fondue. Super creamy and delicious. That's why

well, I can sit here all day and say I don't know to most things.

Well, you know, we'll, we'll do a different show where it's all stuff that stumps me. Yeah. Anyway, but the but what's funny is is that actually the Swiss were the first people to have a patent on process cheese. And one of the one of the ideas of why is because they were used to using wine in their famous melted cheese fondue. And so they came up with processed cheese first, something that's typically blamed on Americans, but in fact is a Swiss invention. So way you're gonna have way to process cheese, a number of different ways, different reasons. Depending on how much you add, it can have different effects ways typically used as a water binder. And so it could probably hold water in when you're melting your cheese down. It's unclear to me because I don't have the recipe in front of me. And I know I don't own the Modernist Cuisine cookbook yet, so I couldn't look it up. But it's probably there as a water binder and also to affect the melt ability. Little bits added of whey protein tend to increase the marketability of cheese and more additions tend to decrease the melt ability of cheese and also decrease the flavor because whey protein, fairly neutral in taste. Now, as for that SDS said, Joe has stuff that is just a different kind of emulsifying salt. The one you're using sodium citrate was the first one that was used It tends to not be so great for long term usage and it doesn't promote notability as some of the phosphate salts do, but it's good to have around because it modifies the pH. So sodium citrate is going to make things. It's a buffer, but I think will make things slightly more acidic. Whereas some of the phosphate salts are slightly more basic. And the pH of the cheese when you're done is fairly important to the texture usually you want to be right around five 5.1. My memory serves me on the pH of melted cheese to get them right. I'm super interested in processed cheese. I saw an article where someone was making something that had the flavor of ketchup but the mutability of cheese using a product I've tried to use once but had no success with called rennet casein, basically, completely constructed cheese analogue with a different flavor. Manas pantry is trying to get it and when Chris Henderson gets it, I'll get it in I'll play around with it but it reminds me of an experiment I did years ago trying to make ketchup chocolate which is texture of chocolate flavor of ketchup. Anyway, so with that, why don't we take a commercial break I'll catch my breath and call your questions 278-497-2128 That's 78497 through one through eight.

First grass grass fed beef pasture raised on 150,000 acres in central California? Hers transgressed with the free range sustainably produced humane. First ranch grass fed beef the authentic flavor of the American lives.

And welcome back to Cooking issues. So Jack, we're going to do a giveaway today. True or False?

True. Okay, so our good friends at the Heritage meat shop, which is at the Essex street market in New York City on Essex and Delancey are offering a free pork chop to the first listener that answers the trivia question you posed to them.

Okay, here's the trivia question. So the last question I'm going to answer from a reader is from Carrie Campbell. And Carrie writes in asking about egg substitutes and cocktail in cocktails, and the first person who can call in with the name of a Colombian fruit that produces a frothy head on the top of a cocktail, similar to an egg white, without adding any sort of egg or other protein based stuff wins the pork chop,

well, they can they can either call in, they can info at email, they can email us at info at Heritage Radio network.org, they can tweet us at Heritage underscore radio, or call into the show. So lots of options. You have to pick up the pork chop at the meat shop, though we're not mailing it

and we'll come to Essex Street Market, street market anyway, come to New York, or if you're, you know, here's what you can do. Also, if you happen to live somewhere else, we'll hold it for you. They're not going to go out of business and aren't gonna go anywhere. And next time in New New York, come get the pork chop. Right, true or false? Probably yeah. Yeah, sure. Pork Chops will be around. They'll be around everyone. People aren't going to all of a sudden stop liking pork chops. I don't think so. No, it's not gonna happen. Okay, so what that means Carrie, if you're listening is that your question is going to be less but you have callers on the line. All right. Caller you're on the air. Hello, hi.

Hi, I'm I'm calling from Perth, Australia. I was just wondering, I do at work I do. surveyed lamb rump, and probably one out of 10 come out really mushy after I reheat them. So I cook them at 60 for an hour and 40 and then chill and then reheat at 54 and after they've been in the bathroom 15 minutes about one in 10 Come come out really mushy. And wondering if you could help We troubleshoot that.

It's really hard all the same muscle, the same exact muscle.

Yeah. So it's all it's all the rump, and it's just cleaned and just been marinated in like olive oil, thyme, garlic, rosemary for a couple of days, and then we roll it into a cylinder, and then cook it, and then chill it and then reheat. And you're probably one in 10 Come out and just like mushy as hell, like as if it's been cooked at like 78. And you want to like it, but it's still like pink as

well, it's. So when I think of mushy normally, in low temperature meats, that haven't been overcooked, right, I typically think of kind of a fibery pasty kind of a feel. Similar to Yeah, so if you like it, and for those of you that haven't done a lot of low temperature work, it's difficult to describe because you haven't overcooked it, and the juice is still there. But it just turns to a mass of fibers in your mouth when you chew it. And, yeah, and if you know if any of you want to replicate this at home, buy a filet mignon piece tenderloin and cook it at 54 for for like five hours. And then even though it's still rare, it's horrible. And it's because it's gone. mushy. And typically, and what's the maximum time is spent in the bath?

Aaron 40? Yeah,

how big around is the role?

Probably one and a half inches.

Okay, so I would cook at what temperature 6660. So 140 For all you Fahrenheit heads. So here's what I would say. If you're dealing with meats that don't have a lot of connective tissue in them, typically cooking any longer than the point of doneness is going to reduce the reduce the the amount you're going to like the texture of the meat. So that's why on a duck breast for instance, I only cook a duck breasts for 45 minutes. Because if you cook it for longer, it may not adversely affect the texture, but sometimes it gets some of that machinists that you have. If I'm doing filet, I tend not to cook for lay low temp. But if I'm going to do filet low temp, I'll cook it for like 45 minutes, even though it doesn't pasteurize it technically, although some of the new programs out like the suevey dash and the one that PolyScience have worked on, they'll write programs for surface pasteurization if you're not worried about the inside, but since your, since you've actually rolled it you kind of do need to get all the way to the inside of it and kill it is that while you're doing that length of time, although you shouldn't need to cook it that long at that high to pasteurize.

Yeah, we're doing loin at 62 for an hour and 20. So we just because we lower the temperature, when we change to run, we up the time just a little bit as they're all the sickness is still the same. So we just wanted to offer just because it was in there for longer and lower.

Right? I would I would try to decrease the time, it might be the time doing it. Did you notice that the mature ones had less kind of connective tissue or less inherent structure in them than the ones that weren't mushy? Was there any visual difference between them?

Not really, they were all pretty identical. In I mean, like even the size, like didn't really matter, like half the costume they work because obviously, they're not all identical. Even though you know, the small and the bigger ones do have the same outcome didn't really didn't really matter on that, right.

I mean, if it also means possible that the different cuts of meat have different pH is and that could be affecting it as well. Like, I know certain you know certain pork cuts here we have called PSE pale, soft and oxidative and, and we also have dark cutting meat on the other end of the spectrum of their end of the pH spectrum. And so it could be that you having slight differences there that are affecting the water binding ability of the meat and that that could be affecting the texture, but I would see if cutting your time down something that's something that's an inch and a half across should not take more than an hour max. So see if you cut down to an hour whether or not your problem goes away. And if not, we're going to have to look at something like the actual differences between the individual cuts of meat. Right? You know, because it could be that you're just right on the edge. No worries. Yeah. But pointing out please. You know if you can't I don't know if I like how much it costs to call. But if you can't call back please just let me know what happens one way or the other because it helps me when I have to suggest things to people in the future just let us know whether or not that helped out. Also, is it true that in the south of Australia people bike on the sidewalk everywhere? Is it true that people in Australia bike on the sidewalks I was told this by someone on Twitter? Because sometimes mostly on the road there Yeah, that makes sense. On the road. I was in Japan and people were biking on the sidewalk constantly. I was in constant danger of getting mowed down by people on the sidewalk. I'm glad to see that in Australia. Most people ride on the roads, roads. Roads.

Yeah. I watched the tonight tonight that you have been ranting about as well. It's pretty horrible.

Oh yeah, yeah, yeah,

that's that's that shows that shows terrible is happening still on the air coming from Australia and Justin,

is that still on the air? They still have like, yeah,

it's it's the worst.

I need to make it to Australia some time not to rant about that but to have some of the great produce. I'm especially interested. I know it's not Australian, but I'm interested in the New Zealand's the Portman orange you know the New Zealand grapefruit, the Portland orange. A fantastic it's a fantastic piece of citrus. The Okay, yeah, I tried to get hold of it. I think they grow it in Australia as well. But I think the problem with it, it has to be really really fresh. Which is maybe why it's not shipped out here. And Australia is huge. So just because you know it's from New Zealand doesn't mean it's close to you, but you're not gonna have the import problems that we do. So he's trying to get a hold of it fantastic citrus. Both to eat and for use in cocktails only had it once or twice but delicious.

Oh, look it up.

Thanks very much.

I think you're gonna see how

we, we have another caller. And we also before we get to that caller we have a William Magee if the fruit is Niraj Isla

Oh, no, no, no, no that believe that's a passion fruit. I mean, look it up. No, it's not the one I was thinking of. Okay, let me let me look it up. It's another one I was thinking of, I might have to give it to him. If I look it up during that went up during the next commercial break, and then we'll see whether or not that's just not the one I had in mind.

But it made me work. Alright. We'll see. We have another caller. One

caller, you're on the air.

Hey, this is John Hancock from Memphis, Tennessee. Hi, Dave, how you doing? All right, how you doing? I'm doing pretty good. I have a suckling pig. Tony, that's our town pounds that I've cut down the back on and taken the sides off with the belly attached. And I had some questions about cooking it Sufi versus conventional. time and temperature was and I wanted, of course, a nice crispy skin. Oh, yeah. If you have any. Any advice for me? That would be great.

All right, here you go. So first of all, you have a good problem. How to cook a delicious product, right? Yeah, by the way, Memphis, one of those towns I've not been to can you freakin believe that. I know. It's ridiculous. Ridiculous. It's one of the great, it's one of the great obviously one of the great barbecue towns in the country. And great for so many other things. Music, it's just it's a complete travesty that I haven't made it there yet. But I will someday make it there. Now here's the issue with a suckling pig, as opposed to a larger pig, like a full size hog. I'm gonna, I'm gonna go out here and hopefully I don't anger anyone. But in general for hogs. For whole hogs doesn't apply to suckling pigs. I don't think it's necessarily possible to do the best job cooking the thing whole. Here's why. Not every muscle in a hog wants to cook the same way. Do you know what I mean? So, so I don't know why his name popped out of my head, but the famous whole hog Mitchell, Ed Mitchell, right, ed ed Mitchell, he likes to cook the whole hog. When he does it. what he'll do is he'll like machete, the whole hog up after he's done, get little bits of crunchy skin. And the fact that certain pieces of muscle are kind of pasty and overcooked, specifically, the muscles without connective tissue like the line, it doesn't matter so much, because that's covered up by the sauce. And it's masked by the fact that there's all kinds of cuts in there that are good after they've been cooked for a long period of time. But that said, a suckling pigs a little bit different because it doesn't require as long a cooking time as a whole hog does because nothing in a suckling pig takes as long to break down as something in a whole hog. So it's possible, I think, to get something that's pretty delicious all the way through without having to break it down. And also there's more fat and stuff even in the areas that are kind of low connective tissue and a younger in a younger it's kind of distributed better. Does that make sense? Or no?

All right. What I've done is I've cut the front legs off, and then cut down the line and left the loin in the belly attached and I was kind of roll it up. So it's just one muscle line that we're talking about wrapped up and BRT so

right now but the Belize the Belize attached to the line No, okay good. So they'll cook the line at like I would do I would do low temp like suevey I would cook that line for app I'll go low depends on your on your on your, on your your guests, slash customers or wherever, but I tend to go there are people out there cooking a Pork as low as 57. But that's rare pink, real pink looking. And you're gonna have some people that are balk. You know what I mean? It 50 guy like that. Anyway, yeah, yeah. So if you take it up to 60, it's still pretty juicy. As long as you don't cook it too long. Not very, very few fewer people will balk at at 60. Do you know what I'm saying. And it's still good, you might want to run a test, I tend to do a lot of my pork at 60 Just because it's actually still slightly pink. But what happens is when you do the finishing cook on it, especially if you pull it from hot and do the finishing on the outside, it tends to just be a little bit rosy in the very center and people are okay with that typically. But they'll be okay with it. Yeah, and so the pieces that have the skin on I tend to let cool off quite a bit without unbagging it or taking it out of the fat or whatever I'm cooking it in so that I can get a really long crisping time on the skin because I like to get the skin super super crispy and and crunchy and I like to take a little bit of time doing it because the especially with a torch unless you have a really good torch and by that I mean one that doesn't have any unclean busted gas hitting it. There's so much fat on the skin of a piece of pork, that it can pick up some of that torch taste and it's also difficult to not get scorch marks on it with a torch if you have to use a torch to touch up pieces of the skin afterwards, it's going to ruin your Shinhwa but I recommend firing it or if you have a piece of stainless steel mesh fire to your torch at the stainless steel piece of mesh and use that almost as a as a heating grill because that like this the red hot mesh will combust the rest of the nasty gas taste that you would ordinarily get out of a propane torch. Alternatively, if you have a butane torch and a source of gas in it that doesn't have a lot of those, you know those the mercaptans that they add to it to make it smell terrible so that you know if you have a leak like some of the tobacco brands don't have a lot of taste to them and then you don't have to worry about it so much. But I really prefer deep frying and or like shallow oil pan fry rendering of the skin just because it does a really good job and penetrates all the way through if you need to render out some of the fat I would do some of although I don't think you will I would do modernise cuisines trick that they do with the duck breast which is they buy a new dog brush to kind with the bristles and they hit it with the bristles to kind of allow the fat to render out but

what I've done is I've taken some of the skin and I certainly did it for six hours at 140 and then I was going to scrape that and put it in the hydrator Okay, and fry it. Is that a good idea?

Yeah at 140 I'm trying to think so you wanted to puff like a teacher owner you want to still have a lot of bite to it.

I wanted to catch up to drown

right so so typically when I do like pork rinds I'll I won't I don't load tempo. I cook the hell out of them actually like because what you're doing if you want it to fully puff like a like a teacher own style like like pork rinds, like in the package store. Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah, the trick there is you need to render all of the collagen into gelatin, all of it. And I typically do that by boiling in and salted water for like boiling it very salted water for like 60 minutes, 70 minutes, something like that until it's it's shot and completely shot and then I drain it and let it cool because one it'll burn the heck out of your hands and two, it's very, very fragile until it cools down. When it cools down. The gelatin is going to start to set up a little bit. Then I want it and then I put it in the fridge flat when it's cold. Then it's got more structure to it. Then I scrape it dehydrate it and fry it and it puffs up huge and if you want it to not pop up quite as much. You don't scrape it as much. I'd be really interested to know what the texture difference is between cooking at 140 and cooking it the way I normally do which is you know at boiling I'd be very interested know what the textural differences because my feeling is you're gonna get you're not going to have rendered out all the the collagen and so it's going to hold together a little better. What happens in a pork rind is you dehydrate it just till it turns kind of Flexi plastic like a shrinking blanket from when I was a kid to dehydrate. It totally depends on the on the dehydrator but I really honestly just do it by eye and it should it should feel it goes from being a piece of skin to all of a sudden looking like a piece of plastic And I would just keep like test frying little pieces. And once you see it one time, you'll know what's right. And the best way honestly, it depends on how humid it is. But a you know where you are, but what I'll do it's humid Yeah, I usually I usually dehydrated about 80% of the way and then pull it out and let it sit overnight. And sometimes it'll take itself all the rest of the way. It's very, it's very hard to get it rehydrated if you've over dehydrated it. So that you really want to guard against over dehydrating cause temporary tempering it back to the proper moisture content is just it's a bear, you know what I'm saying? Yeah, yeah, so we're just looking at

caliber dehydrator 12 tray or something like that. So if that helps,

about what temperature I started at 135, I started. Yeah, usually started at 135. I'll let it go for a get let it go for you know, a couple of hours, I'll look at it. And then what you could do overnight, if you have is just turn it down to its lowest setting. And then let it ride. It shouldn't over dehydrate overnight on the lowest possible setting, which is I believe 95 on the X caliber, but it's better, you can always pulse dehydrate to get more of the stuff out. And once it's partially dehydrated, it's not going to spoil on you. So you don't need to worry about spoilage you know what I'm saying?

Partially, just what is it? Sorry? What? Partially dehydrated?

What do you mean? Oh, so in other words, like, if you if you if you don't dehydrated enough, what's going to happen is you're when you fry a test piece, it's going to have like a little, like a kernel on the inside, that's not going to puff up, okay? When you if you over dehydrated, it'll burn and just not puff up as much because there's not enough water to expand it anymore. So, you know, what I usually do is I don't let it dehydrate, if I'm gonna go to bed, I don't let it dehydrate when I'm not there because I don't want it to over dehydrate. But as long as you started the dehydration process, you've reduced the water content of it enough that you're not going to get microbial spoilage in it overnight. So you don't need to worry about it. And then you know, the next day, if it if you know it hasn't kind of tempered out and become even all the way through. If you fry a piece in the morning, then you can just dehydrated for another hour or so. And usually that's enough to to get it in the right in the right state the real thing and like I say it's just to guard against over dehydrating.

Okay, appreciate you. Hey,

hey, tell us how it works out.

I will. Thanks Dave. Have a good day. You too. Hey,

Dave. Yes, so William Magee followed up and said maybe the correct name is

Lulu Lulo Ding ding ding ding ding. Yeah,

to also give a shout out to Andy Melka, who also answered Lulu.

Can we give two porkchops away?

If and the end is not New York but if he comes Yes, we will give the two porkchops away

there you go to winners on the porkchop. So I can now go back and answer Carrie Campbell's question before the end of the show because we have to correct answers.

He has to take a very quick break before that. All right, quick break,

come back. 718-497-2128 That's 784972128.

The following is a message from the Heritage meat shop.

Are you tired of just hearing buzzwords? Do you want to actually take part in the food revolution? Then come on down to the heritage meat shop located in New York's historic Essex street market. On the corner of Essex in The Lancet. We have rare breed pork, beef, poultry, lamb and goat not to mention charcuterie that will make you squeal. All raised right by the right people. See no they'll taste right. Try the meat that over 100 New York chefs ache for come to the heritage meat shop and pick up some revolution today. For more information

visit heritage meat shop.com

and welcome back to Cooking issues. Okay. So actually before I go into Carrie Campbell's question, we had something apropos of the of the pork. We had a Twitter question in that from Ryan Rogers saying does removing the membrane from ribs prior to smoking or CVG remove the membrane either before or after we're talking about is on the bone side of ribs. There's a kind of a membrane you know I'm talking about Jack that membrane that kind of like you can see Yeah, hey Ryan Rogers I went to college with the same one fairly certain Wow, cool. Was he a good guy?

I believe He's a chef and Kentucky now. Nice.

Nice. Well, do you like that memory? I actually happen to like it. I don't mind it. Yeah, well, I'm weird. I'm a bad person because it was like the both of us were bad people because all the people who know what the what they're talking about They tend to say, to remove it for textural reasons, because most people don't like it. I would remove it beforehand. I haven't had that much experience with leaving it on, but versus not. I've never done the side by side. But everyone who removes it say they remove it to get better penetration of rubs and or spice, I'm assuming that if you're going to add smoke, that it's better to take it off earlier because you're gonna get better penetration through it than if you didn't in terms of flavors and things like that fairly easy to strip off strips off the same way that the membrane strips off of a skirt steak. So I would say remove it beforehand, beforehand. The other question was, should you do I'm assuming you mean low temperature, should I do Boston but boneless or bone in low temperature, I would say take the bone out. It's just here's why. As much as everyone I know loves knowing things off of the bone. The bone is really helpful as a protectant when you're cooking normally, but I don't think it's going to cue any benefit when you're doing low temperature because the whole point of low temperatures, you're not going to overcook the meat anyway. And in terms of presentation and slice ability, you're going to want to get that thing out of there so you can roll it. It's also going to take less long to cook you're going to get more accurate temperatures in the center. If you are vacuum bagging, you're not going to pull any of the weird blood things out of the bone if you pull the bone out. Gives you a chance to trim some of the cartilage things away so I would definitely take the bone out. That's just that's just my feeling. Okay, let's take some cocktail questions. We'll do we'll do Karis first because she's here is killing carries man or woman here a camel. I think just can't carry camel. I was called Carry carry camel carry no carry.

First Name carry first name Carrie.

Carrie. Carrie, no question for the podcast I'm looking for a substitute for egg white to use in a Pisco Sour type drink RGM will not allow eggwhites behind the bar, but I am looking for something to give a drink a similar mouthfeel and foam gum syrup. Maybe can I make syrup with a white powder? Thanks, PSD mind sharing a recipe for the coriander syrup. Here's the recipe for the coriander syrup that we use at the bar. Take 150 grams of fresh coriander seed put it into a liter of water, blend it in a blender and one kilo of white sugar, bring it to the boil. Toss in a bunch of crushed red pepper. Stir and keep tasting it, turn the heat off. Stir and keep tasting it until the spice picks up to the level you want. You need a bit of spiciness in the back end of that thing to have it work correctly when we use it similar to like a ginger ale, then put it I would put a fine of course meanwhile, of course strainer inside of a fine Shinhwa and dump it through that. The course meanwhile, will catch most of this stuff and the fine washing while will catch the rest and allows you to spend at one time, let it cool and you're good to go. Okay. So anyway, what can you use? Well, you can make a drink to do in a Pisco Pisco style drink might be really interesting with Lulu. Lulu as a South American I think of it as a Colombian fruit and they use the juice of it constantly and it makes an amazing kind of creamy head on the top foamy head on it just from the hydrocarbons that are naturally in the Lulo. So you could look for fruits that naturally want to foam up when you're doing a sour style drink Lulu is also acidic, so it would it also it's kind of a cool green color. green or yellow Penny, but you can. It's really, it's really interesting so you could do something like that if you wanted to use me powdered egg white unfortunately doesn't taste so good. I've done side by sides with pasteurized egg white, powdered egg white, my, my pasteurized egg white and, and regular egg white with Kentico toe from pegu club years ago. And the fresh egg white was better. If your GM would let you use pasteurized egg whites in the box there. They're not as good but they're not mean whatever I don't even know if they're gonna GM is gonna let you use that. You can pasteurize your own egg whites in an immersion circulator. Or you can use GM syrup and it's going to add some of the body to it. I would I would do is make a call up T IC gums and they have a bunch of kind of really high quality foaming agents that you can use that they and if you call DIC gums, and tell them what your problem is, they have a product for you. The one that we use I've used for making kind of creamy heads on things is called tickle Lloyd 310 or 210 s and it's basically gum arabic with a little bit of xanthan gum in it. And if you want to increase the foamy head nature of it even more, you could dope it with a little more Xanthan. You just don't want to add too much sand down because it can add kind of a snotty, slippery mouthfeel to it. The commercial fake egg white foamer looked at one of the ingredients for it and it's got an emulsifier polysorbate 80 This is fees Fee Brothers potassium sorbate and some sodium benzoate but it as its main ingredient as propylene glycol, which is an antifreeze it's a it's it's used it's food grade. But it's you know, it's not like fantastical, I don't love it. But I think they probably meant as propylene glycol alginate, which is, which is a kind of a modified alginate that is used as a beer head agent in beer. And it's, it's not natural, but it's it's neutral. And it is a foaming agent to increase the stability in the head of beer. So if you shake it, it's going to stabilize the bubbles that are formed. And you could do something like that. But it's kind of horrible. I would just get the pure propylene glycol alginate that doesn't have any kind of weird flavorings or anything in it. But it's going to in used in large amounts, it's going to probably have a slippery, kind of a feel to it. I don't know that you're going to enjoy that so much. That makes sense.

Sorry, yes, it does. Away from Mike there.

Alright, that's okay. Don't worry about that. Okay. Now, have another cocktail question in from Hayden Lambert. On how do I remove the color from homemade tonic water has to be super low tech. Well, when I make tonic water, it doesn't have any color because I don't use the bark. You know the what I forget that I always get the name of the tree wrong. It's like kintone or something like that. But I don't use the bark of the tree. I use quinine sulfate USP, which I get from a chemical house, which is what you know what the big folks use to make tonic water, industrially quinine sulfate, it's a lot easier to dose but is it expensive. And if you want to make it from bark you got to make from bark, and it's going to be Yeah, it's going to be kind of colored and probably cloudy. Now, you're not going to get rid of the color through any normal filtration technique like coffee filter or whatnot. But you should definitely put it all through a coffee filter so that when you carbonate it, you're not going to have a lot of crud floating around, which is going to stop your ability to carbonate Well, if you want to remove color, the only thing I know that strips color out that's really low tech is charcoal filter, but it's going to have to have multiple activated charcoal like Beretta. But it's going to take a long time and be aware that the activated charcoal won't just be stripping color, it'll also be stripping flavor. So I don't know what the affinity of activated charcoal is to quinine, or to the other flavors that are in there. So it's unclear to me what will happen. But I know there are some people out there who actually filter their bitters through burritos to kind of clear them up a little bit, but it's gonna have a radical effect on flavor. In fact, there was a there was a company a number of years ago and their main their main net while they're only product was it was some take on on Grey Goose by I forget what it was, was it was a charcoal filter so that you could go buy like the world's cheapest crappiest vodka and filter it through this thing like like four or five, six times and turn it into an actually not unpleasant neutral vodka and had a picture of a guy with a fur hat on like, wasted out of his mind. It was seen this jack, I haven't know. And so someone gave it to me at the French culinary years ago. And it was like an ex alum and he said, Hey, you know, can you know, would you ever like I was like, No, I can't, I can't advocate taking cheap vodka, pouring it through a filter and then drinking it so that like frat kids can get cranked up for cheap. I mean, it's just not what I do for a living, you know, and I'm not against it. But you know, but it's not like kind of it's not my shtick, you know what I'm saying. But that said, we used it all the time to take cheap liquor and kind of kill it so that we could use it in tests at the school without having to spend out for expensive Viagra, we're doing infusion work. So it definitely does strip flavors out. And we used to put bourbon through it to see what would happen and it strips not all of the color but some of the color. And in fact, it's filtration strips the color out of age rums when they turn it back to white again, really, ya know,

what do they taste like the Bourbons and rums. They're just,

they just killed him a little bit. You know what I mean? It just deadens him up. You know, I mean, I was never I mean in vodka, like taking away that that hospital swab nose is a good thing. But in most other situations. You know, it's not necessarily not necessarily the best. Okay? Mario's evil rock writes in. This isn't too illicit to stash his vegan face. Don't worry about it. She's in her play now. Anyway, I recently made the decision to keep vegetarian at home and I'm trying to create a mix that will serve as a base for things like patties and meatballs. I like the flavor moisture level of the garbanzo lentil onion crimini dried porcini roast eggplant pearl barley mix Jesus. That's quite a mix. It's a mouthful. That's a mouthful. I can't believe I got that out in one breath. It's only because they did it later in the show when I've caught my breath, right? Yeah. But it lacks the elastic resistance of denatured meat. I thought soy flour might help but nope. I would also like to come up with a vegan meatball that doesn't dissolve in marinara, any thoughts? Marty and Eagle Rock. Okay, here's what I would do. In order to get like an elastic situation, you're going to need a gel that's going to buy And together, I know you tried soy protein powder. But what you might not have tried is getting proteins. For instance, if you want to go vegan, you can't use casein. But you could use soy, you could go to something, you know, like attempt a or one of those things that everyone uses their texturized vegetable protein, but might be able to get some soy, and then add some transglutaminase to it. And it transglutaminase works on soy protein to firm up things like tofu. And so you might be able to get bonding between soy protein in a patty. And you. So if you want to go vegan, you have to get a transglutaminase that doesn't have any casein added to it, or gelatin. And so you're going to have to use transglutaminase Aktiva, which is made by a gene and moto t i, the TI is the enzyme only with maltodextrin and doesn't have any casein and doesn't have any gelatin, it's a vegan product. And that one, if you mix it in a slurry with a with a soy protein. The soy protein once it's solubilized should bond to itself over the course of about four hours. So you would sit you would make the patties, you would set them in the fridge for four to four hours overnight is even better. And they should firm up a lot more and then not break apart when you cook them. Right. That seems like a good idea to me. Seems like it would work. And you know, then you don't have to use any sort of awful you know, fake meat crap, which you know, most of those things are horrible. Jack, how much more time do I have?

I hate to do this to you, but it's time.

Oh, yeah. I didn't get to answer all the questions.

A recurring theme on the show. I'd say Alright,

listen at from Reed College named something interesting about Reed College. Oh, man,

I don't know. You ready for this?

Yeah, that's important. I heard someone in Portland. They have the world's only nuclear reactor run entirely by undergraduates. Wow. Yeah. It's like simultaneously I'm like, Oh my God, I wish I went that's awesome. And then I'm like, holy crap. They have a nuclear reactor run by undergraduates.

Portland undergraduates at that I know it's

crazy right? I mean like you know Portland like the more you learn about Portland the cooler it is except for they don't people only bike they don't walk is what I like about New York City. It's a walking city. I can see people I bike but I also like to walk around anyway, et answer from an alumna alumnus of reed answered the question we had weeks ago on or chata next week, I will read ETS answer. We'll talk about eels and tobacco and Seiji Yamamoto and how he uses a compressed Aragon to do he could GMA on eels, probably after my academia post goes up next week on the blog. A couple other questions I didn't get to. We didn't get to you but you we haven't forgotten you will get them next week. This has been cooking issues.

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