Cooking Issues Transcript

Episode 81: Back from Berlin


Hello, everybody, and welcome to a brand new series on heritage radio network called the culinary call sheet where we give a peek into the back kitchen of culinary media. I'm your host, April Jones,

and I'm your co host, Darren bresnitz. Part of why we started the show was to offer an unofficial mentorship for anyone who's interested in learning about all aspects of food and video, whether that's TV, social media online, or just something you want to do for fun.

Absolutely what was once niche or a little silly, as I'm sure you remember, Darren, when we started out, this man has now become such a massive playing field for so many creatives using food as the medium.

It's something that has driven us professionally and personally, for so many years. What excites me the most about this show is that we're going to sit down with some of the industry leaders to hear how they made it and what drew them into this industry.

With 20 years in the culinary production game ourselves. We're hoping we can give through these conversations an insider's view into personal stories from the field, as well as an in depth behind the scenes look into some of the most popular food programming. In today's evolving culinary media landscape.

We'll be covering everything from how to style your food, to how to license IP, to developing your own ideas, and some tips from the masters of how to host your own show.

Yeah, it's a little bit of conversation, how to and how do you do the things that you do in color media, which I'm so excited about? I love so many of the guests that are coming on this season. We have talent from Food Network from Vice media eater refinery 29,

we've met some of the best people in the world both in front of and behind the camera. And we're bringing them all together to share their stories, their delicious adventure and their unique journey into this crazy world.

So to be the first to hear our episodes when they launched this fall, go to wherever podcasts are streaming and hit subscribe and make sure to give us a follow at the Culinary call sheet on Instagram.

broadcasting live from Roberta's in Bushwick, Brooklyn, you're listening to heritage Radio network.com.

Hello, and welcome to cooking your shoes. This is Dave Arnold, your host and Confucius coming to you in the back of Roberta's pizzeria in Bushwick Brooklyn on the heritage Radio Network joining studio as always starshoot Hammer leukocytosis Brian, are you Natasha trying to contact someone to set up one of our 8 billion events? How many events do we have this too many? How many do we have today? Only one today?

Yeah, but But Bobby Flay is gonna be at the bar at six filming

I know but we're not we won't be there

but you shouldn't be there and then it starts at six Mr. Tam with you after this.

But no one knows what we're talking about. And my my brother Phil, he was no no one knows who we're talking about. Mr. Tam is the contractor at the new Booker in backspace and he nice to speak on the air? Can't wait 15 minutes to tell me off the okay. 5015 we go on break every 15 minutes. Our brains also joined with Jack intrepid Jack. How you doing? Brother? I'm good. Good. Call it on your questions live 271-849-7228 That someone 84972128 missed you guys last week because I was in Germany and we couldn't get the scheduling going with the you know, because I was actually I think teaching something or doing some sort of judging during the actual radio program. But had a good time in Germany didn't get to have any really good, solid, real German German food because I didn't have time to go out to any kind of good restaurants which is not I went out to good restaurants. I didn't go out to like a hardcore German German restaurant. I love German food styles. You like to German? Oh, you know why? Because it's hearty. Yes. You love some hearty hearty food. Did it was interesting. The contest I was judging was for Havana Club, which you know, is a rum there is a Havana Club rum here in the United States. But it's not the actual Havana Club. The actual Havana Club was made in Havana and therefore we can't get it in the United States was kind of an irritant. But you know, they got to straighten that crap out sent me how long can we hold the grudge against those guys? Don't know. I mean, it's been like, it's been like what like, see? 4050 like 5050 years, almost 50 freakin years, and we're holding a grudge against these guys. We don't really care about the cigars one way or the other, but it would be nice to get the ramen. You can take planes there apparently now much more easily than you did before. You don't need to like pretend it used to be to take a plane from Cuba. There was like, like two planes a day or something like that. You had to pretend that you were a journalist or some sort of crazy nonsense, but apparently now it's okay. I spent a good deal of time when I was in Germany with Ryan NetWare I'm not gonna pronounce his last name right he's He is another see last name from London so I can pronounce COULDNA Yarrow for some reason I can do that. But Ryan's last name from the worship street whistling shop used to work with Tony actually Tony say at 69 Ready? Chet it Chetty war Danna. It's hardcore. Even he says he can't pronounce his name properly and check this out he's doing some interesting stuff like he's you might know some of the bar stuff he's doing because he has a balloon that he has a like a lemon I think essence sprayed on he then like lights a string the balloon flies up in the air and explodes over your head like as he certainly did drink interesting stuff. He's aging aging drinks with radioactivity. He's like handing him to you know, people who are I guess doing radiation experiments either for food or for medicine, and you know, nuking the hell out of stuff to see whether he can accelerated interesting stuff. I look forward next time in London to go to the bar. Anyways, so what we're talking about just talking about Ryan Oh, anyways, check this out dudes from dudes family. He's you know, he's British, right? Dudes family from Sri Lanka, hates spice. Says he is like a complete pariah at family gatherings. Like black pepper is too spicy for him. It's messed up. Messed up anyway. We were talking about all that because he's got rid of apps coming out of his ears as most people tech people in London do. We were gonna get the new road of that. We might get a new road of that. It's just Yeah, I was emailing. Nice. Anyway,

let's start out a map in Japan.

And we're gonna wrote enough stuff in Japan mustache and I are going to Japan in how long like three weeks? Yeah, anyway, we're gonna wrote about stuff there. Oh, man, it's gonna be a freaking nightmare. All right, we'll see how it works. Okay, first aid from Buren in Sweden in Omaha I guess is how you pronounce name right? We may all because the A with the little dot over the top is all or which means river I think in Swedish question on Wildgame. Hi, David. My name is Baron and I am a chef in the north of Sweden. I have a problem when I Brian wild game especially reindeer and lag APUs, which is what they call grouse lag of plus good one, I normally do a solution between four and 10% with normal salt, sodium chloride. But when I cook the meat in low temp, I get a gray line around the meat, maybe two or three millimeters depending on the time and the percent of the solution. It seems that the line gets more present on darker meat, especially when you cook low temperature. With normal frying and cooking. It's harder to see if I use nitrates to get a pink line, I get a pink line. I don't want to do that. I've done some testing using ascorbic acid and citric acid with no result. What can I do best regards Baron, Okay, now let's This is actually a big, big problem in general, one of the reasons that we don't recommend salting, pre salting on a lot of low temperature means we're brining for that matter as it changes the texture of the meat as it's cooked over a long, long period of time. But color also can be quite quite affected. In fact, that color of meat is due in large part to the state of myoglobin, which is one of the proteins you know, in the meat as its as its cooking. So there's three you know, there's many actually but there's, you know, the some of the main kinds of myoglobin that we deal with are deoxy myoglobin, which is what something looks like inside of a vacuum bag, that's my of Logan with kind of no oxygen bound to it. There's oxy myoglobin, which is the bright pink red color you get from what we associate with kind of fresh meat. And then there's met myoglobin, which is basically a reduced form of it's like, you know, it's a different iron oxide that gives a kind of the brown brown color now. Salting, right affects several of these things. First of all, the when you cook meat, low temperature, when you cook meat in a vacuum bag, first of all you're cooking with, you're reducing the oxygen compounds so much that you get a lot more deoxy myoglobin than you would under normal circumstances. And that takes a long time to denatured actually denatured slower under heat than either oxy myoglobin or met myoglobin does. So that's why in low temperature meats, also, the slower you heat it, the less the more any kind of myoglobin denature. So that's why in low temperature cooking, and especially in high vacuum vacuum bag cooking, you can get kind of very kind of pink results even at higher temperatures, because you're not going to and also when you cut the meat, it's going to cheer you up and get this blue because you're not going to get denature as much of the myoglobin as you would otherwise. Now, salting does two things, it increases the rate of met myoglobin, which is brown kind of production, right? And it also increases the rate at which myoglobin is denatured and takes on a cook look so like by a lot by more than double and and that effect is more pronounced at lower temperature cooking than it is at higher temperature cooking. And so the study to look at here is it's fine it is the effect of muscle type salt and pH on cooked meat Hema protein formation in lamb and beef, which came out in 1999. And so it's just it's right there. You can read it. It's the adding salt rapidly increases the rate at which myoglobin is going to get to nature, that effect is going to be magnified at low temperatures. And so having the salt in there is going to give you more of a coat color and give you a line, a color line and that meet that there's really kind of no way around. But one of the good news is, is that you might not need the brine your meat as much, or at all really, if you're doing low temperature cooking, because you don't need to protect the meat against overcooking. Now, if you're doing it for flavor, that's one thing but you know, not going to knock on effect. Another problem is, is let's say you were going to marinate for flavor use a brine like an acid, the lower the pH also, the faster the the hemoglobin is going to fascinate him or the sorry, the myoglobin is going to denature. So you can't win by putting an acid in, you can't win necessarily by putting an antioxidant in like you did. It's just one of the things if there's salt there and you're low temperature cooking, you're probably going to see a line to the extent that salt is soaked into the meat. So that's that's all there is to it. They did in that study, which you should look at. They also tested to see whether adding fat changed the rate maybe to help you out it did not. They also added polyphosphates soy proteins, casein, and none of these things had any effect on the rate of myoglobin. denaturation, which is I believe what's causing the problem. So that's, that's that but it could also also salt can increase the rate of lipid oxidation can that can will increase the rate of lipid oxidation in meats Anywho. Caller you're on the air.

Hey, Dave, Miss Dasha, the rest?

All right, what's up?

Before I ask my question, I want to say thanks for the next thermalization thing on your blog. I made corned beef tacos for St. Patrick's Day with rye tortillas that was awesome.

Oh I love the right tortillas with corned beef. That's sweet. That's a great idea they were good.

They were often grinding it of course is the problem I tried you know a mortar and pestle and it didn't work what I ended up doing was just putting all the rye berries in a blender with enough water to make a puree out of it and then I added just enough for that mistake to thicken it back up again but still had tons of rye flavor and the texture was so great even fried you know for crunchy tacos right I just a great great to to it

I think that's a great idea adding the mistake of back because really the only reason that you need the hardcore grinding you know implements like the corona which doesn't even work that well or like you know the the the really the big professional jobs is because to grind it at home in a processor or blender you really need to add more water than you can to make a tortilla but adding the mistake of back is genius way to get around that and I think you know well with well within the bounds of of mean like mistake like as much as I griped about it in the in the article it's not it's it's not a horrible product. It's just and it sounds like it's a man sounds like a great plan. I'm glad that worked. I might do that from now on make my life easy. I hate using that Corona grinder.

Yeah. Rama taka Oh, rum

talk went well, I you know, I didn't talk about when I was in Germany, I was supposed to be talking about and was talking about the effect of yeast on distillation because everyone who does homebrewing kind of knows that yeast really affect like what yeast you use affects the flavor of the beer that comes out. But a lot of people don't think about it when it applies to distilled beverages. So what I did was I took the same crappy whole food molasses wasn't crappy, whatever. I don't mean to insult it, although it was crappy. And then took three identical batches, pasteurized them all and pitched two different yeasts into it. And then did it at two different temperatures to show the effects of the yeast as in the yeast is a huge majority of the flavors that are producing a lot of distilled beverages, the esters, the fuel oils, all these all the conjures that we think about with the exception of just pure molasses aroma can aroma come from the yeast. And so I think it was really kind of an eye opener to some people to see, you know, kind of how important particular yeast strain is and which is why people are kind of proud of it. But have you ever visited a distillery when you visit distilleries? They never talk about their yeast? They go right Pat, they may be they let you taste the fermentation. They show it to you but they don't make a big deal out of it the way they make a big deal about their stills or the way they make a big deal about the raw materials that go in and it's really kind of a vital thing so that the talk went well in other words, yeah,

I used to be a head distiller at a rum distillery. And we did a lot of experimenting with. We were doing like fermenting with German happy vibes and yeast and you know, British fruity British ale yeast at high temperatures to try to get different character and they were just wildly different. Not only this, the flavors, but the distillates themselves were just, you know, one would be full of acetone and the next one would have virtually none. So it's really interesting.

What are you allowed to say who you used to distill with?

rum distillery in New Orleans called Sal liberation distillation we make New Orleans rum. And yeah, we even tried to we found this dry yeast that's isolated off of Guatemalan sugarcane. And it was, you know, to make the rum agricole. And it was so phenolic and plasticky that no matter how tight of a cut we did, it was just really too much. But it's fun experimenting with all that. Yeah,

I mean, the tough part, I guess is like, you know, I was talking to Havana Club guys, and you know, they, you know, they make a big deal about getting their own yeast off the off the cane that comes out of the field, then, but then they need to be consistent. And that's the big pain in the butt. That's why you can't go totally wild on this stuff. And why no one, you know, none of the big players can go totally wild. Because if they go totally wild, there's no way they're going to get a consistent product out of it. So then they're put in the position of kind of propagating a particular yeast strain over the course of years, which then becomes, you know, difficult, I guess. I mean, they don't talk about that aspect of it, they make a big deal about their yeast coming from, you know, their area being kind of endogenous to their area, but they don't, are indigenous to their area, but they don't, you know, they don't talk much about how it's, you know, kind of kept as a culture over time, or kind of how many strains of yeast there are in it. You No,

yeah. My question is, I'm, I'm looking to start a small craft soda business. And I've got a lot of good recipes already, like a ginger, habanero soda, and a cucumber, Thai basil soda. And my question is, you know, with a lot of that, like the cucumber and watermelon, I mean, it tastes awesome. And the colors beautiful, but if it sits overnight, all the particulate matter settles out. So what do I need to add? Do I like guar gum or something like that? Is there anything that I want? I want this to be as natural as possible? If anything, it's not going to scare people off to see it on the label.

So you want to keep this stuff suspended? Yeah, well, I mean, you can add I mean, I mean, the problem is, is that anything that's going to keep it suspended, is going to also mean obviously, you're going for kind of low levels of carbonation. Otherwise, you're going to get massive foam out anyway with the particulate matter that's in there. But there's, you know, you probably don't want to move to something like a PGA pectin means certain pectins would do the job suspended. And that's what I, I spend most of my time obliterating pectin to try and de suspend everything that's in it, you know what I mean? So depending on the particle size that you have, I mean, if it's stuff that will pass through a coffee filter, for instance, it can easily be suspended with pectin. Now the next thing down, as you can see, I mean, I wouldn't want to go in a soda because I don't like what happens to the body of it. But, you know, we are used to spending big things or small things like big pieces of herbs, or like just it just

like I'll juice a cucumber and strain it out through a fine strainer. And, you know, mix maybe like a Thai basil tea in with it. And, but just all the particles are big enough, I guess were are small enough where they'll go through a fine mesh strainer. And, and it'll be in solution for a day. But, you know, if I'm serving this in draft, you know, it's all gonna settle to the bottom of the keg.

You're not bottling it, you're just putting it in a keg.

Just yeah, I'm gonna just do corny Cornelius tags and, you know, sell it as a kind of an alternative to craft beer for people who are, you know, kind of the, you know, sober up at the end of the night, or just people who like, you know, interesting photos, but, you know,

right. I mean, one thing too, is a treat it mean, obviously, you know, your distiller and a brewer treat it like a beer and Racket, but do you like the flavor of it better before with the particles in it? Do you like the look and flavor of the particles or you want to try and think of a way to get rid of the flavor the particles, I mean, you could just go a wine finding route racket, and then get that all of that stuff out of there and be left with a clear clear soda, in which case, you can up the volumes of co2 that you pump into it as well, and get more of a bite out of it from a co2 standpoint. You know, the flip route is to try and stabilize it and I would guess, if you want a really good labeled declaration was something like that. This is just a straight up guess because I hadn't thought about it is some form of pectin. You know, similar to me, like think about all the crud that's sitting in grapefruit juice, and that stuff is totally stable, you know, what I mean? It's basically because of pectin. You know, and other suspended kind of plant, you know, matter in there hemicellulose impact and so I would bet you could get some sort of stabilization that way. I haven't researched particularly what probably but like, you know, who would would you would talk to on that is the guys that CP Kelco CP Kelco. They make all of the, you know, they're like the pectin people. And so, they're fairly helpful. So they would probably have some sort of product that you could use if you want to go like a straight hydro route. I mean, the good thing like pectin, fantastically. Well declaration you could just say what it comes from like citrus, citrus peel or Apple palmists or whatever the hell, you know what I mean? Right, right. But then the other people who I would talk to you on stability and CP Kelco also handles some of the the other stability stuff. I mean, FMC biopolymer. They handle a lot of the beard stuff, but I don't think you want to go like I said, PGA like propylene glycol, alginate, all that stuff, kind of head stabilizers for beer and things like that. I don't think you want to do that. And I don't think you want to add so much body because it's going to be real huge problem on foam out to do something like gum arabic Xanthan makes, which is what we use as our main emulsifier. Now, gum arabic is a good emulsifier and might hold stuff in I don't know though. It's not really thickener. You know what I mean? But that was used to stabilize soda emotions. But I don't know that it's going to stabilize stuff from sinking. It's more of an emulsifier in case you had fats and oils in it, you know what I'm saying? Then THC gums that, you know, they're pretty good. And they spend a lot of time thinking about legal legal declarations, and they might have a good way to go Scot riefler guy out on the West Coast and I don't know, I don't remember who is here on the East Coast, they have a lot of proprietary blends, which are, you know, might have be a monetary issue for you if you're a huge producer. But you know, if you're not a huge producer, then the cost is gonna be negligible, based on the fact that you're juicing fresh cucumbers, you know what I mean? So, so I would hit up CP Kelco. See whether they have a pectin product for you I would hit up THC gums and see whether they have a straight up stabilization and then as a last resort, I've got FMC biopolymer

Alright, look into this any remember before in a previous show you talked about like coriander and green Thai chili soda or something of any other interesting flavors you could throw my way.

Really expensive ones but that one's good. In fact, we're using that one tonight we're making a drink we're doing a lucky rice event tonight and we're doing we're making an old fashioned with that coriander syrup. You know in general for for us with Booker and DAX. We like to stock one or two syrups around that are dual purpose. So I can we can use the coriander, fennel fashion and then I can also make a soda out of it. You know what I mean? So we always have, you know, I always have a clarified lime juice sitting around so we could always make a lime soda if we needed to. You know, obviously, but you know, there's stuff that that stache and I have done in the past before we had a bar has been extraordinarily expensive stuff like straight strawberry juice and raspberry juice, you know, turn into a soda. Delicious number one says scrub uncle Sara. Yeah, this stuff's amazing. Fantastically expensive, though. I don't know what you'd have to charge someone to serve that as a soda. You know what I mean? Sure. I mean, I'd have to charge like mixed drink prices or more even and then people will be like, I'm paying 14 bucks for freaking soda. Oh my god. There's two pints of blueberries Anyway, do you want out of it? You know what I mean?

Yeah, I'm looking to do kind of like similar prices to a pint of beer, you know? 354 bucks for a pint of you know, craft soda.

Right? So you want to stick with stronger flavors. You don't have to put as much in and then have the majority of what goes in be water.

Exactly, exactly. I think we have time for one one question.

We gotta go to a break.

I was wondering about penalties and digestivo Do you think that it really works is alcohol good for the impure and Pete digestion and or does it stimulate digestion or is basically alcohol bad for digestion? And if you have any favorite aperitifs and HSTS

I've never thought of that, whether it actually doesn't it because I discount all health claims in general for everything at all times. So I've never actually thought about it, but I'm sure someone has done the study of kind of rate of digestion and alcohol consumption both before and after. What do you like to have before before a meal? Do you like you like it? You don't really do that kind of stuff right now like Kumari. Yeah, that's true. I like to compare a beforehand and afterwards I you know, I don't I don't go for like the like, upset stomach pound some fernet afterwards, or like, you know, the late night for next shot that all the bartenders go for it. But I don't know. I haven't thought about it. I'm gonna think about that one that will come back. In fact, if you send a question to Natasha for next week's radio show, I'll try to remember to do some actual research on alcohol and digestion. Alrighty. Thank you. All right. Hey, Jack, you want to go to our first commercial break? Yep, let's do it. There we go. Baba Baba Bootsy Oh hell yeah Jack That's a good call. Thanks. What is that? I'll check it out in a minute. I'm not sure what album it's from oopsies robber baron. Oh hell yes yeah love boots you know boots he's still playing still out there with the with the star colored base and the star shaped glasses mazing dude stretching out and Bootsy is a rubber band. Definitely definitely album. If you don't like Bootsy Collins, you just had some severe problems with you like you agree your butt's broken, your funk motor is busted. You need to turn that son of a bitch on and go out and listen to some Bootsy Anyway, today's show is brought to you by Chris Boswell who's about to tell a TV show is brought to you by modernist pantry. You back. We love you We missed you. We missed you modernist pantry, supplying innovative ingredients for the modern cook. Do you love to experiment with new cooking techniques and ingredients but hate to overspend for pounds of supplies and only a few grams are needed per application? Modernist pantry has a solution. They offer a wide range of modern ingredients and packages it makes sense for the home cook and enthusiast and most cost only around five bucks, saving you time, money and storage space. Whether you're looking for hydrocolloid pH buffers are even meat glue, you'll find it at modernist pantry. And if you need something that they don't carry, just ask Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to source it for you. With inexpensive shipping to any country in the world. There's got to be some country he won't ship to. Maybe Hey, listen, here's a challenge. All you suckers out there. Go try to come from a country that he will not shift to there's got to be something Cuba. Zimbabwe. We'll talk about that later. Okay, if we have time we'll talk about ours in our possible Zimbabwe trip later. Anyway, over wherever anyway, we'll talk about hey, with inexpensive shipping to any country in the world monitors pantry is your one stop shop for innovative cooking ingredients. Modernist pantry carries Versa whip 600 kg a modified Solei protein, which is a great replacement for egg whites and gelatin and whipped applications like Marang mousse, and other hot or cold foams. Fans of cooking new shoes that place an order of $25 or more before next week's show will get a free package of Versa whip to play with simple use the promo code ci 81 When placing your order online at modernist pantry.com Visit modernist pantry.com today for all of your modernist cooking needs. So there are several versal groups out there. And as I said Versa whip is a is a it's either a soy protein or actually a milk protein whey protein there's two different ones. So I want in a way one and they function slightly different I guess, you know, Chris is selling the the soy one. If you're using versalift for the first time. The other good whipping agent that a lot of us use is Metho cell F like Frank 50 is a good whipping agents different proteins are whipping agents because they're large, charged and large and and charged anyway. And so they they're good aeration and whipping agents. And well actually foam stabilizers. That's actually not really whipping agent. They're foam stabilizer and I guess a whipping agent but you might want to add some solid sauce to increase whipping when you're going another thing about vs whip vs whip can be weird. In other words, like when you're whipping an egg white it kind of lifts up kind of like slow and steady versus whip you can whip it for a while nothing nothing nothing nothing nothing nothing bang you have a foam. So if you buy it, just be aware that that is it might happen and don't give up right away when you're whipping stuff right? Yeah, yeah. Okay. Stephen writes in from Moscow with remember he was moving to Moscow. Yeah. And with water for coffee. It sounds like a book. That's wonderful chocolate. Yeah, but water makes much more sense for for coffee than for chocolate. Right? Anyway. Hello, I love listening to the show listen for a long time wanted to follow up on an equipment issues I called in a few weeks back I live in Moscow and the water is absolutely horrible. Let's You bet. You bet. I usually get bothered our water here is good. That's me. That's me. Anyway, that's me. Anyway, I usually get bothered bottled mineral water shipped in but I want to go for an under the sink filter the local bottled water is not too bad and as okay taste as everything's not filtered out of it. The big coffee head that I am I need to have something to play with water wise filter wise. So see that filter seem to clean out most of the crud the filters that he that he finds that seem to clean out most of the crowd tend to be reverse osmosis filters. But at least from what I hear the water tastes really bad out of reverse reverse osmosis aka in our own machine, because it filters out almost everything, but it's on our own machine. Really the only way to go with a basic multi filter system work for me and the specific processes that you would recommend brands etc. Okay. Keep up the good work and let us know when you're heading to Moscow. Staci was almost going to go to Moscow like two years ago. Yeah. What the hell happened?

The storm? Oh, no, no, no, it

was Iceland. The volcano erupted. Right? Yeah, yeah. And then no one would fly over that thing. Yeah. So she's like, man, man. It's typical. Right? You were like you were like resigned yourself to it. Like that's it? Because you know, as those of you that know, mustaches the curious mix. Hat Well, not really half Russian like like quarter quarter rush. Second quarter Ukrainian, but we call it Russian, no offense Ukraine, and half Mexican. So she's going to try to see whether she can go to Russia and also deny that half of her existence. I'm just messing with just messing with it anyways. The problem with reverse osmosis is that it takes out almost everything in it. And coffee needs to have some mineral mineralization in order for it to taste good. So there's a couple of different things you could do, you could go aro and then use actually mineralize it afterwards, and I didn't have a chance to look up, there's some companies that will sell kind of kids that where you can kind of remineralize the water. That said, I don't know what's in the water in Moscow that makes it tastes bad at my house. You know, even in New York, we have a decent water supply. The particular pipe that mine comes through occasionally is chlorinated and so I filter all of my water for coffee, and I use a multistage filter, you want to go a big filter first. You know, when I say big, I mean, you know, somewhat porous, it's going to capture most of the stuff that will clog the later filter. And they have filters that you know, so they'll have filters that will take down almost everything down to cysts and tiny little things. But they'll also remove almost all of the flavor out of it, as long as the water is safe to go. The issue with those filters is, is that when you add multiple system filters in a house system, you are decreasing the pressure coming through it by a lot. And so you want to make sure that you get enough pressure through it. You want to make sure you change your filters. I use the GE home water stuff. I don't know whether it's efficient for what's going on in Moscow. Or you could have an alternative problem is that the water is not not just bad tasting, right? Or you know, it has problems but it's also too mineralized, in which case you need to de mineralize it and then remineralize it somewhat but I totally agree with you reverse osmosis system is not the way to go. I'll you know, send us back some more parameters about what actually your problem with the water is over there. And I'll take a look and see whether or anyone else who has some experience with some real hard water places in coffee maybe can write us in and tell us what they use. Yeah, okay. Tom Fisher writes in about GM syrup. Hello, Dave. Annastacia Jack and Carlos. Carlos is not with us anymore. Carlos doesn't like us anymore. Jack. What are you gonna do? He's around. He is working at a hotel. I think he's delivering meals is room service like that big specifically because he hated us at the radio show not liking things specifically because he hated Anastasia. Wow, hardcore. You should see the faces that Anastasia shoots off exactly. When too many vegan faces. I think you know we have people here like they're eating their pizza and stash it gives them the look out the window. They just push the pizza to the side they can't eat anymore. They leave crazy. Anyway. Tom Fisher writes in recently, I've been given a book of cocktail recipes and glancing through it one ingredient kept jumping out of me it's an old book, I guess. Gum syrup. Confused, I looked up several classic recipes, drinks that normally have sugar or sugar or sugar syrup added. But in this book, all these drinks call for gum syrup. I have the ingredients on hand. So I don't necessarily mind making the syrup. But is there any need to do? So does the gum arabic really make a difference? Also, in searching for a recipe for gum syrup, I found half a dozen or a dozen different versions. What do you recommend? Thanks. I'm hoping you're having fun in Germany, Tom Fisher. Okay. For those of you that don't know what we're talking about gum syrup is gum syrup is where you instead of just making a regular simple syrup, which is a sugar and water, you add a boatload of gum arabic to it right now I would I would add as much as you kind of can. Right within the realm of portability. The interesting about gum arabic is other than the fact that it comes from tree sap is or it comes from trees because I'm free. And the fact that you know, for a while there was problems with it because it was coming from an area in Sudan and maybe you were supporting terrorism and or genocide by buying it. I think that's been fixed now. I'm not sure anyway, I shouldn't say stuff like that. Just like you know, kind of like off the cuff as though like, because it's it sounds horrible. I think they might have fixed those problems. Anyways, gum arabic is really cool because unlike most hydrocolloids which are long chains, right? Gum Arabic is very highly branched in a similar way to amylopectin is very highly branched. And so it's a very kind of large weight. hydrocolloid polymer, but is also not too thick, even in kind of very heavy solutions. It also has a protein in it, that acts as a an emulsifier, which is why it was used for a long, long time still is used while it was expensive to stabilize. So to syrup's that have some oil in them because it also has the really cool capacity that it holds. It's a multi emulsifying capabilities, even when it's diluted radically and quickly, which is why it's great for things like soda syrups. It also adds body which is why it's in these drinks. So it's an emulsifier, which means it's going to go into shake and drink. It's going to make the bubbles hold longer, and it's going to it's going to get a better texture on it. And that's basically why it's there. I'd say it's worth it. I've never experimented exclusively with straight gum syrup, but we use a mixture of gum arabic and Zen. And then called tickle Lloyd to 10 asked for all of our emulsified fat drinks like cold Buttered Rum. In all of our housemade or jars that we have, we have like a Walmart or SHA, we have a pistachio or we have a toasted almond or jar that we do at Booker index. And we use this takeaway to 10. We also have we ever put on the menu, but we do it for one offs, we have basically what we call tick syrup, or tick simple and it is a mixture of gum arabic and Xanthan. And it's basically like a modern day gum syrup. And when you shake it into a daiquiri, let's say you get kind of a it's a different mouthfeel so half the people really love it. Half the people prefer regular simple syrup linen. And so it's hard to say it's not better or worse. I think it's creamy and it kind of gets a better head more foamy I kind of like it Do you like the tick symbol? Or do you like the regular better? Do you remember that I remember remember like, but it splits along lines. So I would definitely recommend making some and trying we should do some regular good old fashioned combs here. But if you're going to do it freakin do it right at a boatload of gum arabic, right? We don't sit around with it. It's expensive though. Maybe one reason not to Anyway, hope that helps. Okay, should we take one more let me take a moment we do not have time for commercial break. I'm gonna rip this stuff through. I'm gonna rip through this. Teddy de Vigo wrote in about the frog rabanne in California. I'm curious to hear your opinions on the upcoming fog rabanne in California. The way I see it is animal rights activists are just choosing a battle they can win, so they gain momentum to tackle the real criminals like Purdue Tyson, etc. I enjoy flog raw and personally think banning all flog raw in California is ludicrous. However, some foie gras producers do treat their ducks and geese horribly. But then again, the same goes for chicken, pork, beef, etc. The government should send out inspectors to approve of farms before they before they are allowed to sell their products. And also they should check up on the farms at least a yearly basis to make sure the animals are treated humanely, Teddy DeVito. Well, I don't really know. Here's a problem, right? And I'm going to like everyone's going to jump down my throat. Now I'm going to be an outcast in the in the chef world. I'm like, I like flog raw, fine, but I can really live without it. I mean, like, you know what I mean? Like, like most of my friends, you know, like, if you take like, take away their frog, Roz, like taking, you know, taking the guns away from an NRA member. Like they freak out. You know what I mean? But I don't think it's reasonable for me to decide like what I think is right or wrong, just based on whether or not I really personally care about it that much. Do you know what I'm saying? I mean, I do like a hot pot. Foie gras. You know, nice. I like I like it. I like it. Fine. It's not my favorite freakin thing on earth. What about Eustace? Yeah. And thanks for taking the bullet with me. I like that see stars, you know, stars for all the crap we give stars. She is loyal. Right? It is true. Yeah. Anyway,

Donut last night. I didn't know I didn't it was a good I don't know if someone said it was they thought it was gonna be like a cream like foie gras and cream inside. But it was just straight for gras really stuffed. Very good.

They did not like it didn't sound good. I did not try it. And then I tried. I do not know. Anyway. I heard someone else who tried it. They said they liked it, though. And therefore growl was more like a moose on the inside. And we were not here to talk about it. Anyway, foie gras. So I really don't know where I stand on this. You know, I believe that we should, you know, I mean, obviously, I think we should move towards humane methods of production in, in all in all forms of farming, you know, to the greatest extent possible. The question is, I think the real there's, there's two things, right? There's one is that, you know, I don't like anyone being forbidden to do something, or something that they want to serve in their restaurant, but there needs to be a limit. I mean, obviously, you're not allowed to, like, you know, murder people and serve them in restaurants, right. So there's obviously a limit on what chefs should be allowed to do in a restaurant. You know, and then, but there's the question of whether or not flog raw is basically just the poster child for what's perceived as cruelty because for those if there's anyone out there doesn't know how flog raw is produced, basically, animals eat you force feed animals, a whole boatload of stuff, their livers, inflate, and then and become delicious. And it's called lavage. And that's really what people are reading about is collage. You know, there's arguments that come in on a bunch of different sides because then you have people coming in saying, well, you're you're shafting my cultural heritage. In fact, you know, Guevara is not a recent thing, like the ancient Romans practiced garage, on various different animals to kind of fatten them up and increase their livers. So it's, it's very old practice, which doesn't make it right. And, you know, people enjoy the product, which doesn't make it right. The real question is, is, is is this practice bad or not? I really haven't done the research on it to find out whether or not I actually think it is torture or cruelty. I'm sure that there are places where it's done in a completely horrible inhumane manner. And I'm, but the question is, is that necessarily the case and from people I've spoken to all be it unbiased people I'm sorry, I'll be at biased people. There are ways to produce flog raw, where it is not a torture for the animals. And then you know, there's the possibly but you know, what do I know about it? You know, apocryphal stories of you know, in certain places, well treated geese and ducks actually coming up to the person who's going to perform the garage. So in other words, they're not, they're not afraid of it. Then there's the problem of like, yeah, you're taking care of like, you know, this one really high priced product. But on the other hand, you know, you're allowing the horrible farming practices to take young and call it farming, like horrible factory meat processes to take place, and not really bothering with those people because you're targeting someone that you can easily target because you are making people feel guilty for going out and spending a lot of money on a product that you're then associating with torture the same way it worked on for right. You know, so again, I don't really know where I stand. I know Dave Chang trust his swag raw producers I think we get from Hudson Valley at Momofuku and you know, and it has visited their farm, as seen how they treat the animals and for all the crap that Dave gets for being like all pro meat, like he is also pro responsible farming. And so, you know, I know he vouches for that, at least he told I think he said he vouches for that. Thomas Keller signed on saying, you know, he vouches for some of the producers out out that he deals with as being a humane so I think if we can do it in a humane fashion, then I don't think it's necessarily inhumane just because their livers are diseased, unquote. That doesn't make sense, right? Does that make sense to you, Natasha? Anyway, mom

over feeds my cat. Can we the cat's liver? My mom over feeds my cat.

Just in case you missed that Anastasia just advocated eating pet cats. Just saying. That's what I heard too. Yeah, just just it's just what I'm saying. Anyway. Okay. Okay, you're gonna rip through subject I have a little bit of time or no? Oh, yeah. Yeah, like five more. Okay, so let me let me rip through some let me read through some questions. Greg writes in with a few questions. One, when you do low temperature cooking low temperature sausage low temperature, which we're going to do for the museum of food and drink we're going to do beer brats or something similar at low temperatures could come in and do you pierce the casings let the oils into the casing or is this unnecessary do not do that. You want to keep the oils that were in the thing in the thing to begin with water base things like beer will actually go through the membrane of the casing and like you know, suck flavors out and put flavors in. But you're trying to get as little flavor leach in or out as possible when you're using oil in like a Ziploc bag so don't pierce it and then you're just going to lose juices like you know when you take them properly cook sausage, and you poke it if I do sprays out of it and that's what you kind of want you don't when you want to keep that stuff in there. So no to I'm playing around with suevey chicken breasts recently and really love how they come out. I've been following Jason Loggins recommendations at 56 Celsius for two and a half to three hours that's slow for me. Of course the chicken looks anemic right out of the bag. So I've been trying to come up with a way to make fried chicken using a cheapo deep fryer. Alternately, I could use a very hot pot of high smoke point oil most likely peanut Can you give me some recommendations about batteries or coatings that would help here. I think it's too low. Anyway gonna fry you're gonna bring the stuff up. Anyway, I'm looking for something that would adhere nicely but be a decent vehicle for herbs and spices that would fry up quickly without significant heat soak into the meat. Listen, what you want to do is make sure you pull the stuff out when you're cooking it. Let hot. Let it flash off for a second to get a you know, get a little bit of a pellicle on the outside then straight flour Right. Or you could solve it but straight flour and then put all of the flavor into like a liquid. I use buttermilk egg and I used like basically buttermilk egg, baking soda, baking powder, and you put all the flavor you want in there and then back into flour and fry it. That's what I do. And I got yelled at by some southern guys at the last thing because they use an entirely different technique, but that using low temperature cooking and here's like a bastard and you can get flavors into it. So that's what I do and that's what I would recommend. Also, I'm the habanero pepper taming guy from way back other than Stein garden Jeffery Stein, right and our good buddy haven't spoken to him a while though, right? Anyway. It's good to labor over peppers techniques. I haven't found a decent way to reduce capsaicin load in habanero peppers, which are extremely hot, not as hot as not not good to Loki or whatever. They're pronounced ghost peppers, but it tastes a whole hell of a lot better. Anyway, I still have a few more experiments to try but recently I got access to a centrifuge and this technique struck me could you emulsify the trend pepper flesh with some oleophilic that means that loving medium centrifuges that whole mess and extract the supposedly kept station minimize goodness from the bottom. My thought is the cap station is an older mer. So if I can get a stick to something, can I filter a separate? I guess I didn't mean fat anyway, I should be in good shape. Any thoughts are in the process? What about older files as a first cut? I'll see about just using olive oil but there's also casing or other things out there that might work. Thanks. Take care of Greg. I don't think that's going to work, Greg because you might be able to I mean, there's no doubt you could probably get a capsaicin enriched section of it right, but you're not going to get off you're not going to get all Have it out or even probably enough to make a huge dent. I did some preliminary research last week when this question came in. I didn't find anything. I'm going to keep looking to see whether there's anyone that's done any research on synthetically except separated capsaicin at lower at lower speeds. But I've, I've I am not holding out high hopes, but I'll look into it right? Yes, actually writing that down as you're writing an email. No, you're not see, I can tell because you can hear the coax. If I ask you to write an email you hear the clackety clack that he knows all right. What's the head of some cats that called in? Wow, that's hardcore. That's hardcore. Man. We're not gonna we're not gonna get to it we're not gonna get to all the questions so I don't think okay listens because we had a week without the show. Okay, so let me let me do this. And then hopefully I can get one more but Michael Anakin wrote in your longtime reserve, buddy, right, Herb a voracious and comment on last two weeks ago on the show. So he said, so I couldn't possibly listen to the discussion of the vegan manual Del Posto without writing in the idea that this is talking about what you know, market those guys said about cooking the vegan minions. The idea that vegetarians mostly don't really love food and are just difficult diners who mainly want some sort of health food sustenance is how can I say this for the radio complete and utter crap. I've been a lacto ovo vegetarian for 23 years. And I'm pretty much never think about anything besides food and how to maximize the pleasure of my next meal. But I'm fully engaged with food I listen to your show. I've read Modernist Cuisine from cover to cover and established a few restaurants. My first book cookbook is coming out this week. And it's called Urban voracious a flavor revolution with 150 vibrant individual original vegetarian recipes. In fact, publication date is today live on Amazon should be interesting. Congratulations, and good luck with the book anyway. And I think if you take a look at it, you'll agree that there's no aspect of self sacrifice involved. For me being a vegetarian is just a completely personal thing. I'm not wired to want to eat animals. And I don't think I'm alone. There are many of us who don't eat animals but love food. I'd love to see more high end restaurants take that seriously, not simply throw some pasta in a bar blanc our way and hope we don't care. Thanks, Michael. Now, first of all, in defense of a poster clearly, that's not what they were doing. Right. You know what I mean? Also, I think it Look, here's the thing, right? I mean, is it a tough problem? I mean, like, obviously, you have you know, Michael, you have food and and there's whole cultures, whole civilizations that are based on especially lacto vegetarian. I think the chef's gripe is probably more against vegans, I would say, right, yeah.

Yeah. No, I mean, I don't know.

But even so, like, there's no such thing as like snow. What isn't yours living with leaves? Like, it's like, it's like racism, basically. Yes. You're basically racist.

I have something to say. Okay. Last night. We were coming back from dinner with Mark and I were coming back from dinner, just a small dinner of like miso soup, salad and fried chicken. And we have leftover fried chicken. And we're walking on like 58th and ninth or something sounds like a classic mistake. And there's a homeless person on Oh, jesus cardboard, wrapped in like, like a very nasty blanket. This poor guy, right? And he's asking everyone who passes for change. And I say, I have some food in this bag. And he said, What is it? And I said, it's fried chicken. And he said, I don't eat chicken, because it depends on where it's been raised.

Okay. So you have no respect for human dignity. This dosha has no respect.

No, no, I'm saying look at how, you know, lots of people are very discerning. It doesn't matter.

We're not discerning the guy has a more because the guy doesn't have a home. He can't have morals or whether or not he's chicken.

But yes, no, I'm saying Good for him.

Are you saying Good for him? Good for him? Yeah. Good for him. Good for him. Alright, so you're not I know, I'm not. You're not saying anything bad about this guy. Oh, and I don't know. All right. Well, I misjudged you, then. Thank you. The point is that, you know, the the issue is, is there are a lot of chefs that here's the deal. Chefs don't like pick what they perceive as pickiness in any form. Right? And so, the the issue is, is if they perceive what's going on as just being pickiness, it's not that they don't mind the work chefs love work and they love problems, you know what I mean? They like to they like a challenge like this. They they don't like picky people in general as a generalization. And what they do is is that people they don't necessarily and here's the real crux respect the decisions other people make based on their diet. Right? So it's accurate and fashion. And so, they perceive that as being they perceive certain dietary choices, not 100% of the cases, but they perceive the people who make them as making decisions that are either a picky be whiny or see antisocial in some cases. Right, right.

I think they've spent a lot of time they work with food, they make choices. They make recipes based on their love of food. And when there's a picky eater, and then creates a whole new,

the Michaels clearly not a picky eater. That's what I'm saying. But here's the problem was when it comes to generalization, you don't I mean? So I mean, it's disingenuous to basically give, you know, Michael a pass, because he's lacto ovo vegetarian, I'm guarantee you, there's vegans out there who love food, you don't I mean, it's a lot harder. I think anytime you limit your palette, it's more of a challenge, it becomes more difficult. And then it becomes harder for people who don't cook that way to produce a product on the quality of the quality level that they want to produce. See elements. Another problem that chefs have is that they want to produce the best quality stuff that they can produce for you. And if they don't sit around all day thinking about the best way to make a vegan meal, then it's hard for them to produce their what they think is their best showing. Right. When they're doing vegan, if you add on to that A, this is mean, sorry to say it, but this is like innate, right, like an innate distrust of any sort of thing that they see as picky, then you're like, you know, you're adding insult to injury. But I think I mean, I don't know how the house is coming off the outside world. Probably horribly. But I mean, the fact of the matter is that, you know, you're you're right, we should judge, every chef should judge every customer, they come in on their own merits. And there's plenty of meat eaters who are some picky sumbitches, who, you know, chefs don't like dealing with. I don't like salt. I don't like you don't I mean, there are people who legitimately can't have too much salt because they're hypertensive. But then there are people say that they don't like it people. It's like, okay, like, I'm allergic to stuff, like, I'll die if I eat like a large quantity of raw cherries. And the only reason I'm allergic to it is because I'm being punished for making fun of people's allergies for years. You know what I'm saying? But chefs do that all the time. Yeah. You know what I'm saying? But I think you know, you're a part of that. If you read if you go to the Amazon and you look at Michael's cookbook, Michael napkins, new cookbook, and you read the copy for it, which I did today, basically saying, you know, this is food that you'll be happy to cook for your meat eating friends, because it's basically just delicious. I love that I support that. And it's very similar. Actually, Pat Brown, who's a professor at Stanford who's was working on he's a vegetarian, it's working trying to make meat analogues. He's like, he's like, you know, and he's doing it actually, because he does want to proselytize. He wants people to stop eating meat. He wants me to stop being produced. He wants people to stop farming meat. He's friends with Harold McGee was poked him anyways. So his point is you we will you will never decrease the amount of meat that is consumed in this country by the average person unless you make a product that a meat eater wants to eat more than the meat they're eating now. And that's it. Right. All right. Listen, I got a couple of questions I didn't get to we'll get you next week cooking issues.