Cooking Issues Transcript

Episode 80: Flavor Pairings & More


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Hey, what's up? This is John Norris and you're listening to the heritage Radio Network.

Hello, and welcome to cooking issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of cooking issues coming to you live in the bank of Roberta's pizzeria in the heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from actually started on Tuesday 12 to about 1245 actually next week might be a problem going to Germany next week. Last time I was in Germany we did cooking issues live from a street corner in Germany. You want to you want to see whether you can do the live German cooking.

Yeah, more more off the wall than a street corner. Well, I

mean like look, honestly, if I'm going to do it, I probably have to do it in the hotel with Skype otherwise, I mean, like, we were just lucky that my phone didn't get cut out or I didn't get beat over the head by some sort of angry ex is German. Last time I did it, but we love the the angry ex these terms by the way, it's no offense. Calling all your cooking questions Do send 184972128 That's someone at 4972128 So stars. Last week on the show, we had our friend Aereo from UC Davis and Brooks Headley, the pastry chef that more people need to know about from Del Posto restaurant. He got a call or a question in asking him about the seven course vegan tasting menu that they do at Del Posto. Mr. Atia made her vegan face which by the way, now I can relate to you all she would not let me take a picture of it literally. Like I pulled up the camera maybe 810 times. I caught her once as she was exiting the vegan face but couldn't get the full vegan face on camera because she refused to let me get it but if you've ever seen either the sopranos or Steven Van Zandt on his new show, Lua hammer, his angry, his angry gangster face scowl like the kind of Bulldog frown. That's pretty much that's pretty much the vegan face right there. So it's pretty popular. I

see. Even on iTunes, one of the reviews was referencing the vegan face. It's blowing up. Well, yeah, and I suspect maybe Anastasia can't even make the real vegan face anymore. No,

I can when it's when she doesn't mean to do it. That's when it happens. You can see her true reaction to the vegan lunch. It's like I don't need to actually ask her I just look over and see. You know, is it Steven Van Zandt sitting next to me? Or his mustache is sitting next to me? And you know, that's basically how how you do it. So, by the way, I'm gonna get probably in big I'm about to get in big trouble with our good friends over at Del Posto Mark Ladner and Brooks because here's what they said. They actually enjoy making the Wii they said first of all don't publicize the vegan thing. Thank God our cadre of listeners is loyal. But you know, we're not there. You know, whatever. We don't have Enough visitors to book the globe dot poster, right right around so, so not gonna get in trouble? Well, we'll see you'll find out. So here's what they said. Any good cook, likes a likes a challenge and likes a set of constraints in which they can work and try to get new ideas to try and push their skills push their talents, right. And this could be anything like so when we did the museum event last year. Also at Del Posto, you know, we pushed the bartenders and the cooks into areas that wouldn't normally work by giving them a set of constraints you're going to work with, you know, this set of ingredients or this time, you know, this time or like, you know, knows we gave fad diets, etc, etc. And, and without exception, every single cooking bartender who worked at that event, took the challenge in the exact way that we want it to and use it as an opportunity to do something creative and interesting. Wiley, in fact, put the dish that he did there, the bone marrow, he put that on his New Year's menus. And Brooks did his artichoke thing I think for a while. So it's it's a great thing for any cook to do. Maybe not all the time. But you know, on occasion to take a challenge or take a set of constraints. And cooking something vegan is just a set of constraints. And so the guys that Del Posto really liked. They really they really like cooking this kind of thing. And it actually is on the menu also and have a customer they said who comes in quite often. And whenever that customer comes in, they revamped the vegan menu for them. So it's not the same every time it comes in this time unfortunately also macrobiotic which listen, you know, I find it very difficult to not offend offend people but not eating nightshades is crazy. No tomatoes, you're gonna go vegan. Now you're all of a sudden you're not going to have tomatoes, potatoes or eggplants. I mean, please do what you said. Well, you said and I agreed. You said and I agreed. I said do you like Baba Canossian? You said no. I said do you like do you like anything with that kind of you know, she said no, doesn't like bacon BARDA. She likes eggplant parmesan, but mostly for the fry the mozzarella and the anyway, one thing I have to say is that is that they should have shifted into liquor early.

Oh, yes. I emailed the name and told them that what's his

name? It's nice shout out. Jeff Porter. There you go. See? See how much nicer it is to use somebody's name instead of Mark. Okay, so anyway, I'm here to report. Oh, so they said don't popularize because even though they like cooking it. And this is a challenge to vegans. Out there anyone with a row like that there's wineglasses right here and they with dietary things out there. You have a reputation among chefs as being difficult human beings with which to work. And so that the very issue isn't that they don't like cooking the menu. Their issue is that in general, too generous to generalize the customers who order it can be problematic because they tend to not be people that are interested in food primarily. They're just there to get some, you know, to have a meal and they have these restrictions in which they're working. But the food isn't the primary focus. And cooks prefer to cook for people who like food fair. That's what they told us not to publicize it. And by saying that without getting anyone in too much trouble. You

didn't use the exact language of what they call those people.

Now now they're those people are what the vegan Alright, so you say oh, no, no, I'm not gonna say what they say. We did not insult vegan people. Anyways, my point is is very good, unfortunately was also macrobiotic, which to me I mean, someone please call in. Tell me why macrobiotic stuff is not a bunch of hoo ha. Anyone? Anyone? Colin. I know there's a lot of people out there who love

two shots of green of green stuff.

I did not drink. Actually we make a very good drink green drink at the bar. Yeah. Not macrobiotic because you can't have distilled distilled liquor. But yeah, it was kind of like wheat grassy like, you know, one of the drinks no offense to Jeff there because I think he was they bought it and they did it on purpose just to shaft me. Tasted like I had latched my mouth onto the exit chute of a lawn mower and was riding around the grass, you know, with a lawn mower attached to my mouth. But the meal itself was very very good. What do you think

it was good for what it was what the hell was that? I would not go there and get it like people who want that get what they want get get a great meal. Right?

I thought I mean, I thought it was a really good meal. Natasha first of all is prejudiced in this sense. When she goes to Italian restaurant if she doesn't leave with her gut busting open she's like it's not Italian Italian foods supposed to be hot. It's supposed to be a hearty food. You don't I mean, and my point is it's not necessarily the case.

Oh sad to go to Del Posto and not eat a bunch of pasta. It's it's sad to

me. My point is that you you have a preconceived notion of what Italian should be and what Del Posto should be so you can't divorce yourself from that notion and just Look at the fruit I wish as it was presented. What about you know, I thought the flavors were very very well balanced there was nothing that I thought was lacking. There's a lot of use of high umami and like protein based things that weren't meat like nutritional yeast, which is quite good. Obviously a lot of mushrooms brought into it a lot of very, you know, reduced root vegetables things like that things to add I thought everything was was delicious at that the textures were good. That was what bounced. One thing I don't didn't like were the raw snap peas on it. Because even though everyone everyone finds them delicious, except for me, because of the raw, the raw starch taste, I do not like pea shoots either. And I might be the only person on earth who does not like pea shoots. And because I don't like that raw. I don't like that raw taste and part of the problem with me doing that raw diet last year yes, I don't like it. You know what I mean? Anyways, so I thought they did an amazing

was good when we finally got wine that was like, oh, yeah,

we had an orange wine that was I guess, you know, which will research more I didn't research it a lot and starch at that point was was dying for. Speaker speaking of dying for a drink. We have a line here. You're gonna have to translate this. What's a land of what's Kathy? I don't know that you spoke Italian. I feel that Italian to the No, we can look it up. Oh my god. Anyway, it's called passivity. And pecorino. Now pecorino for all of you out there, obviously means goat. So is this wine? Jack? Is this wind literally passed through a goat before it's put in a bottle?

I can't confirm or deny that. Yeah, you can't. But I don't know. I'm excited to try this from the border house though. Remember those guys? I was about

to say these are from our good friends at the border house. And I've said this before is the province.

Really? Land of that point yet? Kathy is

four for people who've been listening to the show forever. They're the same people who brought you Bouza booze?

Yeah, so they're also bringing you wine passthru goat? This is a white wine. What's that? What's the grape? Is there a grape called goat? What the heck is this and looking at it. So here's the deal. So the barter house for those of you that they haven't sponsored a show in a while, mainly because modernist pantry has been sponsoring our show for a long time. But we like the folks at the barter house. And what they are, is a kind of a like as a specialty importer that imports wines, kind of unusual and interesting wine. So they're not going to carry a lot of the wines that you know that we're familiar with. But one of the one of the good ways to see whether or not you should try a new wine in the store. And it's not just a bar has find, you know, an important one and brings in wines that you like. And in general, these people choose wines that they like that are interesting. So if you don't know that producer, do you don't know the grape, you don't know the style. Sometimes looking at the back and seeing who's bringing it in is a good indication of whether or not it'd be something interesting to try. And I think it's something that we don't do enough in wine stores. People don't think about the importers or the houses that choose wines or the curate the selections that they're going to bring over. But I think it's a good way to try a new one. So we're going to stash and I could it's so hot, we're going to have this white wine that's been passed through a goat per set. He doesn't actually mean doesn't mean pass. pasado means pass. Right?

So what is assessing? This is their last name. Oh, that's the name of the people that it's for husband and wife, Team Franco and Mima meme

of the city. So they serve me my class so we can try this stuff and we should get to some actual cooking issues here in a minute. Otherwise, it's gonna be a show just based on nonsense and drivel. It's fried. Northminster nonsense and drivel. What do you think so it's,

it's really sweeter? Actually sweet.

It's just not like hyper dry and crisp.

It's fine. Fine. What do you think Dave?

And what would you pair it with stars?

Barrett with the with actually with pecorino cheese,

you're such a loser. That brings me to another thing before we get into real stuff. You know, we've been there's been a lot of play recently on recently, like, on our show and nowhere else on on the taste pairing hypothesis and this hypothesis where you know, things that have similar molecules not necessarily similar. Natasha apparently believes if you name something after a goat, it should go well with goat cheese.

It's It's stuck in my head. But yeah, I think it would go well, don't you?

I think almost every film I like. I don't know. Like, you know, it's one of those things that has enough acidity to it that it could go well with spicy or like an Asian thing is not going to get totally cut down. It's not the structure of it isn't like a red that's going to get obliterated so I can I can see it with that. With that, was that what the hell is that under your breath Asian thing? Like a spicy thing? I'm thinking about it because we were at puck puck. That was a New York, Brooklyn. Yeah. So now we become a review show where we're reviewing restaurants we've been to over the past we only

we only went to two in one day. It's like we don't do anything together. We don't go out to restaurants.

Thank God, thank God but my wife and I are at the table next to Mr. Atia Mark Wagner from Del Posto. Brookes ran her friend from Juilliard, Pat, Patrick Posey. And so this was is Andy recurs not Richter's, comedian Andy Ricker, the famous Portland formerly Portland now Portland and New York based chef who does tie kind of a in a different way than I've ever had it in New York and cuz I've never been to Thailand so I can't call it authentic, but extremely delicious, extremely great food and I only ever had puck weighing which is his takeout joint in the Lower East Side and his food at events since the first time I got to go to a basically a full scale restaurant of his and I was frankly blown away thought was great. And what do you think so? Yeah, there's

an amazing hate type ID well,

okay, when the star she says she hates Thai food, those of you that have ever listened to the show knows that they know that Natasha is crazy. Basically. Here's what she doesn't like about here's what she says she doesn't like Thai food. Here's what she means. I don't like lemongrass and I don't like coconut milk, right? And peanuts. I don't know what So what

So there wasn't a lot of that in this food at all right

anyway but that's not my point. My point is is that no starch is crazy and that this restaurant was great for instance the thing that like the thing that blew me away is that he served an extremely spicy beef dish I forget the name of it you know kind of ground meat and next to it was just a plate of herbs herbs that were and these herbs they look like you know a plate of herbs and I started taking them and they were unlike any herbs you'd ever tasted like when he came over I basically had the waiter column over because and Mark Two is like look if you're in the business that I'm in the market you're not no one's supposed to be able to in New York City hand you a plate of herbs and have the first four things you taste off of be unlike anything that you've ever had and completely foreign to us such that you have no idea what the hell's going on that just doesn't happen you know what I mean? Like one or two new ingredients whatever our new ingredient but something is totally foreign to you like that is crazy right? Can you agree with that sizes and like this one had the kind of tartness of a sorrel but a completely different tastes I want to use that in a drink he like and he gets it some guy in Florida some basically I guess who smuggled seeds from Thailand to Florida and is growing these kind of insane Thai herbs in Florida and then shipping them up to Andy and he gets he gets them on consignment from this guy and to try to get some for the bar for Booker and DAX but it's just just crazy crazy stuff good stuff. I recommend going okay enough with the restaurant reviews those right oh one more piece of news from Booker index land and then I guess we should go down yet Booker and DAX a while it won't be ready for about a month but we now have Booker index the company not the bar has its own space in the Lower East Side so look out for us coming in doing some cool stuff in the lottery side Correct? Yeah, yeah, yeah, it's a small space doesn't matter doesn't matter storefront which is awesome. It's our own space. So those you can stop by like wave vegetables at Natasha in the window and she can make her face for you in about a month with that call your questions to send 184972128 That's 718-497-2128 cooking issues.

Caribbean you gotta have you gotta love it Welcome back to Canisius. By the way today's show is going to be brought to you by the barter house. Yeah, Jack has told me Oh, I wouldn't pay the taxes like that. And I was playing Tetris. Anyway, before I go on to some real issues, I want to talk about the this book tastebuds and molecules about the flavor pairing hypothesis. So I've been basically saying for a while that I think that this flavor pairing hypothesis is bunk whereby, you know, you take, you know, foods that share specific flavor compounds and therefore you can decide that they actually go well together. And it's, it's a, you know, technique. It's gotten a lot of play recently, and so I kind of thought I'd go by, and I bought it. book called tastebuds and molecules, written by Francois Sharkey, and the best thing to take practices name, I don't know. He's kept a claw. But he's done a lot of work in France, and he is like a true master sommelier. Nobody argues the man knows his wine. You And sometime in the early to mid 2000s, he started working on this working on the idea of flavor pairing, looking up what components were in a wine, the aromatics of wine, and a lot of that stuff is readily actually available, because a lot of studies have been done on it due to wine quality issues. And so a lot of food studies have been done on it. And also what, when those same molecules up here in foods, and has built a structure of tastings and basically food pairings based on what you know, what he calls his research his research into the into those things. And the result is this book tastebuds and molecules, which also has like a lot of crazy kind of graphical elements. And so I bought it thinking that I was going to hate it. Right. And there are many things about it that I disagree with. But I have to say that he, I mean, he clearly, you know, understands he clearly from everything I've read about him, I've never had dinner with him or anything, but has a very good palate, right? So this isn't, in other words, it's not something where someone is just saying, Hey, look at, here's a bunch of stuff that I saw on a piece of paper, and therefore they're gonna go well together, even though I haven't developed a palette, he's coming at it from the direction that I think is a good one. Namely, he spent years and years developing his palate, right, his nose, his palate, his senses. And then, after those years, then used these kinds of pieces of research as a further tool to, to get inspiration in areas he hadn't already looked basically, to have something to help the light bulb or the chime in his head, say yes, these two things would go well together, and to give him kind of the confidence to put two things together that wouldn't normally ordinarily be put together. And so, to that extent, you know, yes, I think it could be used as a valid, valid thing. And I actually ended up liking, liking, like what he was saying more than I thought I would. But on the flip side, I mean, I think this is part of the kind of like the, you know, the because the book was published in French first, that kind of writing, it's a little more kind of florid, and it kind of take things a lot, a lot further than I would like and kind of makes much more sweeping comments about, you know, what he's doing, and the concepts behind it, than I would I would like and so, you know, when I'm working on a cocktail book, I gotta guard against that to not making these kind of sweeping statements. My problem is when any of these things become sort of dogmatic or almost become a religion, the way you know what I mean, the way that people kind of treat the new concepts but interesting book. So there's, there's that that's my last word on on on the flavor pairing hypothesis for today. Now onto some questions. We come in. Hello from Osaka, Japan. We're going to Japan soon. Natasha and I are going to Tokyo to work in the Park Hyatt. We're going to be working there for four days, right? Plus a fifth press day. And I'm hoping to get the like, I want the most butt kicking Japanese stuff. I don't want any stuff that I can get here in the States. I mean, I do I want to see like how much better all the stuff that they say is better there. I want to get all that when I'm there. But I want some stuff that you cannot get here. I mean, you know what I mean? You're with me on this. They're taking you they're taking us to the market. So Kiki and and the other big fruit market next. I'm gonna go bonkers. And they're with their credit card. Yeah. Oh man. I'm a dangerous person with someone else's credit card. As soon as you arrive. You're going straight there. So I better sleep. I can't sleep on planes. I'll have to drink like eight loads of espresso just make like an hour trip to the bathroom and then and then we'll go off into it right okay. Hello from Osaka, Japan. I have two questions I'm interested in buying a refractometer to use in the field as well as in the kitchen. Some things I would like to be able to do are measure the salinity of O'Brien to know when it has reached equilibrium. Measure the sugar content of produce in the field to know when to harvest measure the sugar quantity of produce to determine which provider has the best product can one refractometer be used to measure salinity as well as Brix. Do you have any recommendation for refractometers or electronic Brix meters better than optical refractometers? Okay.

Here's the thing I've used both electric ones we have one manufactured by the hand Corporation as well as manual ones. The for the field. I mean the thing is you don't want to be caught out in the field with one and have it break. I mean the optical ones are fairly bulletproof me Anastasia did break one of mine. She like shattered the the I don't know how the heck she did it. She broke it no one else has ever broken. She broke the little flip down screen that goes on. The handheld ones. The ones that are not electronic, are a lot cheaper. They're like 3032 bucks to get the ones on eBay. They work fine. You need light. You know what I mean? And you need to be able to see through the products somewhat to be able to do it, you know, to use them properly. Those ones I've never seen one that will do both salinity and Brix, however, what you know, you can get just a brix one, and which measures sugar content and get one that is for solidity, and they're fairly small, and they're fairly cheap. So you can get two of them right, for much less than the cost of one good electronic one, I really liked the electronic one for just speed of use and not having especially in the bar to worry about light, you do have to do with the electronic ones hold your hand sometimes over the measurement device so that you don't get errant light problems if there's too much ambient light, you can't work with it. The electronic ones are better for just crashing up some juice even if it has particles and throwing on because they're not as thrown off by that and they're easier to read you can read something in an electronic one, that there's a really cute kid looking through our window by the way, she's pressing her nose against it, we're waving to the window, there's a she's wearing some sort of purple flowery thing that's very cute anyway, the so the electronic ones are better at measuring things that you couldn't necessarily handheld when you had to be on the flap the glass down the the plastic piece that goes over the reading prism, you have to be able to flap it down and get good contact before you can get a good reading. And you don't need to do that with the with the with the handheld electronic ones. I do think that the handle a trunk ones might break a little easier to handle ones that I have are only calibrated for bricks, right? You could you could and mine is what I like about mine is that especially if you're going to be using something for a long time and a lot of different fields. And you might be measuring juice one day, or a fruit one day and syrup's the next isn't mine, my electronic one goes from zero bricks to 85% bricks, which is really nice. And there are handheld optical ones that have a very wide range. But the problem is, is that those wide range ones, it's hard to get a very accurate reading, because the scale is the same length no matter what you do. And so then you have the issue of not being able to to discern fine differences in bricks. Now there are also triple scale, manual refractometers I've never used one. And those apparently you can get the accuracy you want in several different scale ranges, but they tend to be more expensive. So instead of like $32, you're talking about 100 $150 And you can get a decent electric one electronic one on eBay for an eBay on Amazon or whatnot for you know, around that price. But what are we paid to 262 60 for a zero to 85 Now there is a company I don't have theirs, unfortunately called leaf spares the company but you can look it up that has different different ranges in the same refractometer. And they will actually program three custom ranges into your refractometer for you. So you could get a zero to 85 Brix refractometer, at the same time, get a salinity meter and all it's basically doing is changing the calibration within the unit so that you can measure using the same instrument. Another thing you could do is use your Brix refractometer, and then carefully make up things of the proper salinity, right, measure what the bricks is on it. And then you can hit that number every time even though you're using a brick scale so you can correct bricks to salinity. And it's hard sometimes to find the published papers for that on the internet. But you can also do that. The last thing I would caution about refractometers in general, is that you know you're going to have a lot of people make mistakes on refractometer. And they think that you can measure bricks and other things in mixed medium. Remember all that that's all that the refractometer is measuring is how what the difference in refraction is as light is passed through a liquid. So what happens is different liquids have different refractive indexes, they bend like a different amount and refractometer is measuring typically how much your liquid bends light relative to water, and so they can own what Brix is measuring is dissolved sugar, but anything that changes any solute anything is dissolved in it is going to change it. So if you have alcohol, which changes the angle of refraction, right, if all you have is alcohol, then you can use a refractometer to measure how much alcohol is in the water. If all you have is alcohol and water, if all you have is sugar in water, then you can measure how much sugar how much sugar there is in the water using a refractometer if all you have is salt and water, same if you have salt and sugar you cannot because there's no way to figure out what the what each component is doing to the refractive index independently unless you can measure one of the variables. Same thing with ethanol and sugar, which is why you can't use a refractometer to measure something like contro because it's cup of sugar and alcohol in it. So there are no limitations to what a frack photometer can do for you, because it's only measuring one quantity, how much light is bent as it travels through your medium. So I hope that helps. But you know if I can go back because the spare ones only like an extra $50, but it wasn't on Amazon, I would get the multi range of electronic bricks unit that does zero at 85 wide scale. And I think it's fair, but you know, whatever, the SP er, I think I'm not sure, I would get there one that does the full range from zero to 85, it's going to do 99% of any of the sugar work you want. And they will also do a custom scale. So if you wanted to do, I don't know what you're doing for a living but let's say you're distillery or something and you also need to measure or wine fermenter. And you also need to measure glycol, you got to have a glycol scale in there so that you can make your glycol solutions which you would use for anti when you're using like chilling. If you have a chiller and you need to do glycol, you can put a glycol scale in and salinity scale. So you could choose any three scales. If it was me, I would have bricks, salinity and ethanol percentage for distilled spirits, I would have those three on it and then you'd have one reflectometer and you'd be good forever, but you might want to back it up with a manual one, the manual one most people get to zero to 32 bricks if you're doing fruit and much higher refractometer at much higher brix level if you're doing anything like sugars are serious because remember, simple syrup one to one simple syrup is running about 50 bricks, right? So you can't measure it on a standard zero to 32 Brix. refractometer Brix is basically just percentage of the solution that is sucrose, right? And if you're doing two to one simple syrup, you're up at 66 bricks, and so you can get zero 32 is of limited use in a bar. Right? Right. So yeah, that's why you bought the zero 85 For us, and we're quite happy with it. Yes. Another piece of equipment we have at the bar we're very happy with now is we bought best $65 That's not true. Lying. It's a good 65 hours, not the best $65 I've ever spent. The best $65 ever spent was on my wife's wedding ring, Kitty faster. But ya know, it's a good $65 I bought a zero to five milliliter, basically micropipette and it's just super accurate. So we use it to dose all of our like our wine finding agents, Kiesel salt on Kayo San. And also, when we're making small batches of things to correct things for salinity and whatnot, we can add small amounts that we can then reproduce when we scale it up. So I really liked the micro pipette. And we stole that idea from our friend, Tony conigliaro, not the famous dead baseball player from you know the story of Tony Connelly on a very famous Tony See, they call him because also Americans in America, it's conigliaro, by the way, so Tony, the baseball player was Tony conigliaro, not Tony conigliaro, the bartender, right. But he was like one of like, slated to be one of the best baseball players of all time, was in fact, very good play for the for the bosox and got he crowded the plate all the time, and got hit in the head with a beaner. And like, almost like I think it put them in a coma. He's in the hospital all the time, never the same. Never say, by the way, what mustache is actually doing the work she's doing is looking up pictures of the chauffeur from Downton abbey on. I looked over to see like what kind of thing she's looking up about the event I'm doing in Germany that we're going to talk about after the next break. And she's looking up. She's looking at the chauffeur kind of like the least sympathetic character on Downton Abbey, because not the least sympathetic, but I mean, no, no, no,

it's not No, no, no, what it's, it's what the stars look like out of costume.

But you've already seen that I know. Crazy. It's just what I deal with people on a daily basis. All right. The second question from Osaka from John, is are there antioxidants that are fat soluble as well as temperature stable up to temperatures around 180 degrees Celsius? Failing that what is the best practice when storing fats to keep them in their best condition? To applications I'm interested in are we using very expensive tempura oil and keeping smalls without oxidizing any thoughts small it's a love small it's chicken fat is delicious. I've never been to a one of the old school restaurants in New York that have schmaltz on the table like one of the old kosher restaurants cuz you can't have butter on the table. Because you can't serve butter in a steakhouse. You can have smalls, I freaking love chicken fed. So what can you what can you do? Well, I meant I forgot that this question had been asked when I saw it last night so I didn't look up the specific things that are added but typically, if you buy commercial fry oil, they have an antioxidant in them. Some sort of like Vitamin E Toko. Funeral but based thing that's fat soluble that prevents oxidation in the oil and that is very helpful and stable up to frying temperatures that I've tried to look it up during the break or to start you can try to look it up now instead of looking up Downton Abbey's before and after pictures. But the and that's why I say commercial fry oil is much much better than any of the stuff that we buy in the supermarket because it lasts just a boatload longer and tastes a lot cleaner. They also in commercial for Right, what else do something that you can't do in a home? Well, wishes they they specifically and temporary oil might be like this, they specifically tailor the fatty acid mixing it to have only those fatty acids that are fairly temperature stable and oxidation resistant. That said, obviously the things that cause oil to break down, most are if you get a salt in the oil, which is you know, sometimes you know, unavoidable, allowing a burnt particles to stay in the bottom of the oil while you're cooking, if you don't have a commercial fryer with a cold zone at the bottom, which computer doesn't work that way, by the way, which is crazy. But whatever. Or, if you so those are the main things you also like it's best to use. And this again goes against the way I've seen most imported on but you really want very low surface area to volume ratio on on your, on the oil, because then you have less air contact, you want as little foaming as possible. So not a lot of like low high water stuff dripping in anything that basically is going to promote a lot a large amount of oxygen getting into the oil. Also, clearly, you don't want any reactive metals like iron touching the stuff because that's going to that's going to mess with you. And you want to as soon as it cools down enough filter it and you could you could, you know vacuum, you guys could vacuum pack it or like put it in bottles and then like suck the air out of it to prevent any sort of oxidation from taking place. But those are the kinds of things that I would do. The worst thing though, I see breakdown on oil, especially when it's done in a home fires temperature cycling, and there's very little you can do to prevent temperature cycling, except for you know, the commercial fryers are really what's going to stop you from doing a lot of temperature cycling. Other than that, you could get an induction unit that keeps the oil at a relatively even temperature that has like basically a temperature controller in it. That's you know, keeping the oil tolerances fairly tight, and then not overloading the oil so that you don't have to get the you don't have to have as much of a temperature drop. So you don't need as high of a thermal input to do the instant recovery. And that's going to cause you to have less thermal cycling on your oil and that's going to increase the the lifetime significantly. In a home frying situation. It's crap floating to the bottom burning and destroying the oil, salt, but most importantly temperature cycling that is really killing your oil at a fee Roche's rate and those are the things I would do I don't know about you looking up the vitamin E the Toka fear all bass stuff. Are we still on Downton Abbey? No, I was doing the Germany's Alright, well, okay, so while we do this, we'll take a commercial break, and we'll see whether the statue could find that stuff on the internet cooking issues.

Welcome back to putting issues on my back. All right. So it turns out that I wasn't able to look it up over the commercial break, we'll try to find some specific thing that you can go buy in a store to drop into your oil to add as an antioxidant. So in a stash. What's this event that I'm doing in in El Germany next week called

Accademia del Ron and it's Havana Club event. And you will be there from you arrived Monday morning and you leave Thursday?

I don't know that people need to know my schedule. What am I talking about there? And we're talking

about yeast in alcohol.

Yeah. So here's the deal. So they asked me to do, they asked me to do this event on rum. And I said fine, but they like I feel like I spent a lot of time trying to become like well versed in several things. But the effect of yeast on rum. Like I can think of at least five other people that I know personally, who know more about this than I do. Right? But yet that's what they wanted me to talk about. See people make the mistake of not saying anything, because when people make the mistake of thinking that I'm a scientist, I'm not. I'm like a gearhead cook that can read science papers, right? So I don't feel like I'm the guy to sit there and talk to you about like any sort of actual research that I've done or anything because it's just not the case. So over the past week and a half, I read, I don't know several 100 pages on the effects of yeast on different different on fermentation products. And I've learned a boatload about it but I still am not an expert in the field on this. So what we what I had to do was I just basically took a bunch of molasses I couldn't get the molasses I like, which is Crosby's molasses which is those bastards that email that you were like they never got back. Crosby's molasses for any of you who have ever been in the in the northeast New England or Maine. Crosby's molasses is the one molasses that I've had. They're like, Oh my god, is that delicious? molasses? Like I would pour that. Yeah, like you ever listen to Louis Jordan. You ever listen to Jordan? Louis Jordan you know the song is he was eating my baby or Caledonia or be wearing those that's Louie Jordan. Like big in the 40s you know, kind of kind of cocktail kind of like, you know, like, you know, whatever, like, anyway, like music musician, musician, anyway, beans incorporating that song beans in comrade. Anyway, Louis Jordan. So Louis Jordan warehouses on blue join for when we talking about fermentation. Yeah, but how the hell they're gonna let me Jordan molasses molasses. So he's like in the beans and cornbread song. He goes together like hotcakes and molasses and you're like hotcakes and molasses. So who the hell would put molasses on pancakes and then and then once you've had Crosby's molasses he realized why, but those dumb bastards from Crosby's. They're up in Canada. And by the way, I love you Canadians but your lazy group of people just

kidding. He's not

just kidding anyway. But they won't distribute outside of New England we had to mailers. I couldn't say we've

wrote them well you wrote them a nice email from me in response to how great their last yeah so it down here no response back Crosby's

molasses is so delicious. Like when you next time you're in Maine, or wherever over there, up there in New England way. Get some Crosby's molasses and tell me you don't think that's the most delicious molasses that you've ever had? I mean, I don't know maybe in the Caribbean, they maybe they had some delicious molasses, I don't know. But as far as in the continental US, it's the most delicious molasses I've ever had. Anyway, so we didn't use that. We use some sort of like molasses and we're distilling our own. It still is fermented using two separate yeast. Now when you're when you're actually doing rum and you're using wild yeast fermentation, there's it's not just Saccharomyces surveysay, which is the normal beer brewers yeast, of which there's a bazillion strains, each of which have different produce different flavors. But there's like I forget the names and like skin Scherzo. Schizosaccharomyces sacralized. He's too racy. There's like, there's, there's a whole bunch of different yeast strains, like five or six, not strains at you know, actual genus species, and then a zillion strains, all of which produce different flavors. It turns out most of the flavor will difference in fermentation. A lot of the flavor of differences due to the yeast, right? So think about it this way, Natasha, if you've ever had you've ever had wine grapes. Yeah, like to eat? Yeah, yeah. Wine. Grapes don't taste like wine. Right? It's very difficult to like, if you tasted like Pinot Noir grapes, you're not like, Oh, I get you know what I mean? They're all like the most of the flavors that are in there in Pinot Noir are there as precursors, right, that you can't taste then the fermentation and the different yeasts that are used. Bring out the real territory. So a lot of the flavor is due to due to the the yeast issues. I don't happen to be an expert in that, but that's what I'm going to be talking about. And then when people

ask you to talk about these things, because you're able to understand it and explain it in an interesting and exciting way. Well, it's very charitable. So that's your special thing for the week.

Yeah. So that's, that's, that's the one nice thing to stash is gonna say to me all week. So anyway, so over the course of the week, we're going to have to go out and illegally distill the, the molasses fermentation, which by the way, molasses fermented molasses tastes horrible, though this blackstrap molasses stuff tasted horrible, tasted like iron. I was told by our friend Chris, who's opening a new beer bar in New York called proletariat. proletariat just actually gave the proletariat face. She hates the vegans and the people here

and TV. You're MTV, Belvedere jank. Did you guys talk more about that? Yes.

No. Do you tell me about it? The Red Bull that you're gonna make mustaches Sign us up to do a jersey Jersey Shore. For those of you that don't have the don't have like, haven't been outside. There's a show called Jersey Shore, which I actually haven't seen. But I saw the thing on YouTube where the guy punched the lady out. Yeah, what? That's sneaky, right? Anyways, I haven't seen the show. Have you seen the show? Smile. You

have actually watched an episode. This is serious. Like last week. I

watched an episode for the first time. It's good. It's a funny show. Yeah, it's a funny show.

I'm pro. Well, one of our favorite lawyers is from the Jersey Shore. Yes, Vadim. Yeah, good guy. Anyway, so Natasha signed us up to do an MTV party with Evan Freeman. And it's going to be a Jersey Shore party and so Natasha wants us to do a hi aka Red Bull. Yeah. Yeah, so we're working on it. But I don't know what Red Bull? I don't know. I don't really know much about Red Bull. No, we need to. We need to we need to look it up. Yeah, yeah. Well, we'll take that stuff up anyway. Oh, by the way, we got some shout out from John who asked the two questions on Osaka says, loves the show. Thank you so much. And this is in general about the world here we go. With so much knowledge as John talking with so much knowledge being spread around, I don't think there's ever been a more exciting time to be a cook. In Japan, it was commonly accepted that the price you pay to become a cook is your youth. That's kind of nicely said. In five years, I've been able to learn what would normally take 10. And on top of that, I know the why behind the how lose seems to be a very uncommon thing in Japan, whoa, boom, we're gonna have to have some talks about that when we're in Japan. How behind the how soon be very uncommon, Japan. So here is a thank you for you guys and everyone else sharing what they know. And it's true that we would not have what's going on today without the increase in kind of sharing of information that has been made possible by you know, the snow, it is the internet, like obviously, it's obviously it's the internet, internet, but I think it's other things. I think that and I've had some conversations with some European chefs, especially in America, but also among Spanish just in like this extreme desire to share what people know and to be generous with ideas that is in the Cook community. You know what I mean? Yeah, you agree? Yeah. But for instance, Tim Rolla, the Michelin starred chef in, in Germany, which where I'll be next. Hey, he's in Berlin. Maybe I should see him when I'm in Berlin. Anyway, he he. He said in Germany the chefs don't like they don't like hanging out and give each other ideas. Weird has to go to bed to bed to bed. Okay. Hey, Dave, Anastasia and Jack. Jack. You got the shout out on this one. This is you want some news from this stuff? You gotta look this up. Oh, from Tony herion from mixing bar in Brazil. I read a post on academics, our good friend camper English, the blogger. I read this post on academics about the production of quatro because he visited the quatro distillery that says when they add water to reduce quatro to prove the essential oils and appeal because it's conscious orange peel, distillation along with neutral grain spirit caused the liquor to lose to get cloudy, like when you add water to absence. They centrifuge the quatro to make it clear again, which I did not know the same happens. And this is now it's Tony talking. The same happens when we wrote evap citrus peels and other spices and diluted to proof other than the centrifuge what can be done to separate the compounds that fall out of solution when you dilute liquids with high concentrations of essential oils? Can you think of any other way to stabilize or avoid the precipitation or lose without the centrifuge? And then how good is your centrifuge need to be to achieve loose separation in GS or RPM lastly, to make liquors in this fashion, do you recommend adding water to reduce the proof and then adding the sugar or use a weak sugar syrup or both at once with or without the centrifuge of the step? Love the show keep keep up the great work. Cheers Tony Harrison from mixing bar in Brazil, which when I go to Brazil, we gotta Well, we got to find someone will pay to get us to Brazil. And then after we do that, we'll we will visit them. Yeah, yeah. Okay. One, by the way. This is anyone who wants to get the cooking issues crew down to Brazil keep this in mind. I don't know what it cost him for a plane ticket down there. But PolyScience circulators are twice the cost in Brazil as they are here. So what we can do, if you want a circulator, right, if you can find some company to pay for us, we can buy the circulators here, bring them down as personal equipment for the events and then do a swap down there just

saying and you might need help carrying them so you know I'm here Yeah,

yeah, just saying. Just saying just an idea for all you people in Brazil, if you're trying to get around the tax problem of getting a circulator into the country, and you know, a company that wants to ship a bunch of tech knuckleheads down there to talk

to that $1,000 a person to get down there which

that's about to see breakeven yeah you breakeven your fast Yes, well with that when it comes to getting Mustachio trip to Brazil, blinding speed. Ask her about tocopheryl what what's that crickets are in the background? All right. Here's my feeling Tony. I have this happen a lot with I mean, we do it we do a distillate because Thai basil is like my one of my favorite beverage flavors. So we do one that's Thai basil, orange cucumber, and, and a little bit of cilantro and nothing Lucius out and goes white. Like very quickly. I think it's a not so much the orange peel not because we don't add a lot. I think it's probably the anaphor which is the same thing as causing pollution and a pasties because there's a good bit of that in Thai basil. You know that licorice flavor. By the way in taste buds and molecules book, like one of the interesting things is that there's a I think it's Astra goals, a compound that shared that's in fennel, actually one of those compounds is in Apple to a certain amount and maybe it's this thing that the book actually gave me some interesting concepts Harold McGee and I years ago when we went to Geneva, you Hello Mike is gonna be tolerated this week or muggy we're going to eat sir strongly with Neil's got to set that up on my wife's birthday, which might be problematic. The so we had some apples that grew on the tree that had a huge fennel note to them. And then the fennel dissipated very quickly, but probably due probably to that volatile markets anyway. So like that book actually brought up some interesting stuff in my head brought back some taste memories I had. So anyway, kudos to that, whatever. When you dilute them to prove they're gonna lash out, even if you I've had ones that I've done that too, and then let's sit for several months, and they are they basically they separate over time as well. My feeling is, I don't know, here's the thing, whenever I've tasted these, these, these things straight out of the centrifuge, heavy stuff, sorry, straight out of the road of AP, I love the flavor of them fresh so much that I wouldn't want to kind of I wouldn't want to change them and I don't mind the I don't mind the looping. I don't mind the pasties effect, I kind of like it, it's kind of a signature of that you made this product and that it has so much like of these essential oils in it that they can't be held in solution when the proof goes up. Instead of diluting to proof I would I almost always keep my unless I'm going to serve it straight like an aqua V I almost always and that I've had athletes that go go white on me because we get so much so much essential oil and then from the road of that I almost always keep them at rhodo that proof which for us is between a buck and a buck 20 So about 60% and we keep it there Intel we're about to use it and then let it loose out and it's more stable on the flavor if you don't want to do that. I don't know how I don't think it would take that many G's but I think it would take quite a long time because the particles when you're losing are very very small. And so you have to wait for them to kind of coalesce aggregate and become larger before you can get them to settle out so I think probably center fusing and time are needed. Another hard part about throwing in the centrifuge is that you remember these are these are oils and they float to the top and so you miss my guess and float to the top. And so when you spin them you be in this position of siphoning them off the top or getting the stuff out of the bottom which may or may not be a difficulty because they're not going to go solid if you freeze it the same way that I can do with nut oils or coconut oil. So anyway, so those are those are my those are my thoughts on that. Okay, last question because apparently we have to wrap it up because you know Jack's got other things to do. Other shows other shows okay five 5/5 Question to parents today are the WHY DO YOU number because I don't ever do an order anyway. Like why put numbers on it?

What do you want instead?

I don't know. I don't know. Anyway, this does people don't care I'm gonna waste. Okay. Andrew writes in and says what is your ft actually two things? What is your recipe for pressure cook mustard caviar. I cannot seem to find one online by you yourself. Thanks, Andrew. Here's my recipe. pressure cooked. Mustard seeds are awesome. They pop like caviar. They're delicious. Even the stash Alexa machines everything I cook is natural. You know, she I'm just messing with her because I can Okay, first thing with a mustard seed I use the yellow mustard seeds. blanch them quickly and a couple of like two times or three times in boiling water for a couple seconds apiece. To get rid a get does get rid of some of the pungency so much so that you can almost get away with not particularly but it's not the same thing. We've done the test right. But it gets rid of some of the dirty musty taste that I don't really like in a mustard seed inside. So I we blanch horseradish as well beforehand to get rid of some of that earthy taste. Then you pressure cook them afterwards in straight vinegar. I use distilled vinegar, I pressure cook them for between 15 and 20 minutes at second ring in excess vinegar, they're going to soak up a lot of vinegar so you don't want to go light on the vinegar. Then you drain them and while they're hot, you stir in I use white you can use whatever you want, but I use white granulated sugar to taste the sugar will dissolve in with the vinegar that's still on the outside of the mustard seed. Don't want to add the vinegar beforehand, it's going to become a goopy mess. Add the vinegar after it's cooked and drink while it's still warm, hot but preferably and and just keep tasting it. Then you pack it in it's residual juice you can save you save a little bit of vinegar you can add a little bit in a quart container and it lasts for a long time. So that's that recipe and we have one other suggestion before I leave because I'd be remissed. We had a question last week regarding thermocouple probes. And our good listener Elliot pappano called in response and said I use a dual probe alarm meter from www dot thermo, thermo works.com And it's a cool dual probe thermocouple thermometer and they have some cool looking probes. The probes aren't cheap the thermometer is so there you have it. Eliot likes it. Tell us whether you like it to see you next week hopefully from Joe nominee cooking issues

thanks for listening to this program on the heritage radio network. You can find all of our archived programs on heritage Radio network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching heritage radio network in the iTunes store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on twitter for up to date news and information. Thanks for listening. You got my Hey, oh twist and the jazz king can't get it straight.