Cooking Issues Transcript

Episode 68: Say No To Whole Wheat Pasta


Hello, everybody, and welcome to a brand new series on heritage radio network called the culinary call sheet where we give a peek into the back kitchen of culinary media. I'm your host, April Jones,

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Hello, Happy New Year and welcome to cooking issues. I'm Dave Arnold, your host and cookie she's coming to you live every tuesday from the Heritage radio network in the back of Roberta's pizzeria in Bushwick. Brooklyn joined as usual in the studio with Mr. Asha hammer Lopez, how're you doing? Good. Are you doing all right? How was your Christmas there? I can hear you crinkling up your bag by the way. Fine. Yeah,

yes, I was yours.

Good. Good. I was in up at my at my mom's house there. And in West Chester, just north of the city gave my my kids the Crazy Train set that, you know, was my dad's thing given to me. And I gave it to my kids. They seem to enjoy it. You know, oh, gauge the whole deal. Christmas tree blah, blah, blah. Nice. Yeah. Nice, right? Yeah. Everything's special. Anything?

Nothing special?

Nothing. Wow, that's a depressing.

No, it was fine. Nothing special. Nothing I want to get into.

Wow. All right. Well, anyway, call your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. All right. Let's get oh, by the way. I'm not sure if we're going to have a show next week because I will be in Sweden in an on Tuesday. I don't know exactly where I'm going to be so I have to figure that out. But I would love to do a live call in from Sweden where it's dark all the time. And you know, I'm the only idiot actually I'm not the only idiot like a huge host Absolut Vodka is sending me over and basically a huge host of some of the best known and nicest people actually in the bar business are going over there Dale DeGroff Audrey Saunders and me and blah blah eccentric cetera et cetera. And for some reason I got put on that list like they accidentally emailed to me and then when I replied yes, they they were like, Oh crap, and then they couldn't rescind their offer anyway. My wife bought me the the butt kicking Canada Goose like giant South Pole style parka to go with it. Which is awesome because I get to stay warm and apparently a goose dies which is good. Everyone knows Canadian Geese but I don't actually make that a Canadian geese. But is there any bird on Earth less pleasant than the Canadian goose?

I really liked them.

What what? Wait, you don't like biscuits? But you like Canadian geese? What is it

really pretty?

I think pretty they poop if you remember He's on the east coast.

But I think they're really pretty.

Have you ever been close to one?

There's a phone call.

There. Okay, I'm gonna take the phone call but they're Canadian geese are the meanest, meanest creatures in the world. They're so mean. So mean anyway. Caller you're on the air. Hello? Oh, yes, we lost him, man. So quick, real quick. What happened? I don't know. Hopefully

it might be Matthew with stage fright.

Anyway, hopefully they'll call back anyway. We do have a question in from Matthew saying I hope your 2012 is going well. And no mine apocalypse is have occurred yet. But there's still hope for the Mayan apocalypse. I'll tell you something. Let's say the Mayan apocalypse does happen. Right? That's kind of good news. It means that there is sort of something else out there. Right. I mean, if if you were an agnostic or an atheist and the Mayan apocalypse comes true, well, that's proof that there's something out there. That's good news, right? Gotta put a positive spin on things and stuff even in Apocalypse Now.

But then you're not gonna know if it existed when as soon as you go.

No, but that's the point. If there if there is it means there's something higher. There's something out there. There's something unreal relish in that fact. Set me anyway. Matthew has two questions in the first one. Matthew is going to Columbia. I'm going to spend a week in Carter Hannah this January. I want to ask you about food recommendations. I am a huge a huge fruit fan like you are. Well it sounds like you too are but really I forced to stop should do it. She hates fruit. I'm kidding. She actually does like food, right? Something she likes. You gotta like something. Anyway. If you have any specifics on fruit to try, that'd be cool. Otherwise, if you have any specific dishes, seafood or ingredients, maybe worth bringing home to look out for in Colombia, please let me know. I'm not sure if you've been to card 100 specifically, but if you have do you know of any restaurants, fish kiosks, or dive bars worth trying? Well, I was only in Cartagena, for one day, and the only real restaurant I ate in was a friend of mine, Danielle Costanzo, who also does a raise your shiny knife here in Brooklyn. He has I don't know if he's even doing that anymore because he got like 8 billion restaurants in Colombia but his restaurant in Colombia in carta haina is called Vera Vera. It's in the hotel Chaurasia and it's like really cool. It's all white. It's got a waterfall on the inside. It's kind of indoor outdoor which is kind of the coolest thing about Deckard hip. That's really the only place I ate and I can recommend it I recommend going there. I didn't go to it. We went to like one or two but dive bars but we almost got the crap beaten out of us by the locals and so we ended up leaving I don't remember the names of them. It was very late anyway. Okay. On fruit now I know I've mentioned these before on the on the air but you have to have and you're down there, Lulu? Lulu is and they make a drink out of Lulu Lulu has an amazing, you blend it into a juice and when you shake it into a drink, it makes a nice kind of creamy head. So you got to have a lulu which is very acidic. Truvada, which are basically like gooseberries, but they're really good. And it's, and they're almost free. It's like they come on the table. When you you know, when you come mangosteens you get great mangosteens they're, they're not from there, but they're delicious. guanabana is maybe my favorite fruit in like the world, you can get really great ones they're granted, they have many different kinds of passion fruit variants. Granted, VR is probably the most favorite one down there. Delicious and kooba which is another kind of a banana shaped passionfruit. But smaller also delicious. You want to try to monitor Arbo which is kind of bitter at the skin but very interesting. etc, etc, etc. Another one potato, which is their dragon fruit, which is actually delicious, as opposed to the dragon fruits we get here which are in my opinion without use. Yeah. Yeah, especially I don't care. I don't care. Okay, too low temperature. You know, it's nice to come back after you know, a break. It's a new year, new everything. And it's good to know that some things don't change like mustache and not giving a crap about what I'm talking about.

I was thinking about how your kids yesterday asked me are dragons related to dragon fruit? And I was like,

yeah, they're obsessed with this kind of relation like word relation. You're like what the words are really? Yeah. Yeah. But the fruits themselves are not seeing how Dragon Fruit is real. Dragon fruits real dragons not so much. Okay. Matthew, second question on low temperature duct press. I recently became the proud father of the PolyScience CV professional circulator. Congratulations. Christmas present, maybe. Maybe Maybe. I tried out a Muscovy duck breast at 858 degrees Celsius, which is like 136 or 137. Fahrenheit for about an hour. Sorry. 150 650 757 Somewhere in there. For about an hour and a half. It came out tasty, but a bit chewy was such a lean cut without a huge amount of connective tissue with cooking for a longer time yield and more tender result. I was also wondering when you do do duck breast in a circulator? Do you render the fat before or after the bath? Thanks, Matthew. Okay, I always render my duck breasts after I cooked them. Some people do a seer before and after. With duck breasts. I'm really just trying to cook the breasts through and then afterwards I sear it traditionally basically in a pen to get that nice crisp duck breast the Modernist Cuisine folks, they do a sear both before and after and they use you know what they call cryo searing which is like kind of a dry ice bag that they put the duck breast on to freeze that portion solid so you don't overcook the meat. I basically just put the duck breast in it bag squish it very flat against the table the skin side so that it renders nicely after it's cooked because if you just put it in the bag all willy nilly the skin will be bent and it won't render properly against the pan. Okay? Because just because cooked meat is stiffer than I tried to cook it for the shortest possible amount of time like 45 minutes, the problem cooking longer will break down some more stuff but it actually to my to my taste tends to make it more mushy, not necessarily more tender, just more mushy and certain duck breasts and I can't remember whether Muscovy does it get a little bit livery also if they're if they cook for a very long period of time. You could try some people I know do cook duck breasts for a long time and they seem to like it. I don't I like to duck breasts cooked at like 50 at like 57. Actually, Celsius is where I cook, but it'll probably be a little tough in that range, or 58. If it's a tough breasts for about 45 minutes to an hour, try cooking one longer, I don't have too much experience with the Muscovy breasts. I do most of my tests on the picking duck breast. But I don't know again, I hate to say don't do it. Because some people really like duck breasts when it's cooked longer, and it will break it down further. Don't go any higher on on temperature. Usually if a duck breast is tough at 57, I say go to 58 Celsius. Because that's going to take away a little the squashing it's the same way that if you have a skirt steak, you take it up one degree, it'll get rid of a little to squash it so you could try to go to 59. But that seems way too high to me. Maybe dial back to 57 I wish I could give a better recommendation here because just what you're writing into me is not my normal experience. What happens with duck breasts? Anyway, sorry about that, too. Kurt writes in from Washington DC. Why is whole wheat pasta so terrible? Do you agree and stuff? Yeah, you hate it right? Yeah. Well, first of all, I'm the Starshot hater of many things. One of the things I think she hates most is kind of poorly done possible. She is a pasta lunatic so much so that even I love pasta, and used to make pasta basically, three or four times a week cook pasta quite often she assumes I dislike pasta, because I don't appear to like it as much as she does, right. Yeah,

you often tell me we're not the same person. Yeah,

we're not the same person. That's true. And so you you also hit the holy pasta. Yes, sir. Why? Yeah. Jack You hate as well. Yeah. And what are your reasons for the hatred?

I don't know. It's the texture. Exactly. Yeah,

exactly. The texture. I actually don't mind the the actual flavor of it so much if it's done properly, as long as it hasn't gone rancid. But yeah, the texture is no good. Eunice dosha yeah, there's a rice pasta out there. Which is dreadful if you try that one. Dreadful just awful. I mean, look, rice noodles are great when it's supposed to be a rice noodle and an Asian dish. But if you're trying to pretend that it's Italian pasta, just horrible, right? Yeah. And there's a corn pasta also, Jackie wouldn't approve from a texture standpoint, but I actually kind of enjoy it if you don't think about it as pasta. If you think about it as like corn noodle. It's actually kind of good. Anyway, what Kurt writes in is Why is holy pasta so terrible. This is a serious question. I love pasta, as does apparently Natasha and Jack. But my wife and mother regularly tried to convince me that I should be eating ronzoni Healthy harvest. Berea plus is it pronounced gorilla birrea, gorilla, gorilla, like gorilla, Gorilla plus, or some other healthier product healthier in quotes and by the way, I agree like health. You know, people think that like you need to like if you eat whole wheat, you're suddenly healthier. Like we're not the most over. We have so much an over super super abundance of nutrition in our diets anyway, okay. I like the fact that healthier is in quotes, even though my wife always smacked me in the face when I put quotes around something it's you know, if I put quotes in anyway, whatever. These products are terrible. Partially it's the product itself tastes awful. And part of it is that it mocks me by reminding me of actual delicious pasta. The process of eating it is like chomping on Rothfield corn while staring at a stack of fresh corn tortillas. It is entirely unsatisfying. When I've had to cook with the stuff I simply tried to hide it preparing dishes with strong flavors like Asian peanut sauces, but can the product itself be made better? And starch hates peanut sauces, by the way hates them anyway? Is there a good way to make improved pasta? That is are there pastas with lower glycemic indexes? Or wrote more protein that are culinarily worthwhile? Well, no. I mean, the issue is, is that wheat reason why we is so awesome, is because wheat is awesome. And it's the gluten in wheat that gives it that kind of that awesome texture that we associate with. With pasta, then when you add the brand from, you know and all the other stuff that goes into a whole wheat pasta, then those things tend to what's the word I'm looking for, not interrupt but interfere with the gluten matrix and make the texture not as good in addition, they have fat in them, which tends to go rancid. So if it's stored for a long period of time, you're gonna get rancidity in them. So there's all a bunch of associated problems with going whole wheat on pasture. Now, if you were going to make your own whole wheat pasta, you could get a whole wheat fairly soft flour that is very, very finely ground that doesn't taste like sawdust. For instance, I should party flour or something like this, that is quite good and something like a biscuit, make sure it's extraordinarily fresh, then I would dope it with vital wheat gluten to try and add more gluten to it, try and get some more snap. And then I would add a con sway which is a little bit of an Alkalyn powder or you could even add some baking soda to increase the alkalinity baking so it's not really strong enough, you want to add something like sodium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate or just get constantly at your Asian grocery. This will strengthen the gluten network even further and give it a snap. It will give it a little bit of an alkaline taste. But that's kind of nice in certain applications. Maybe it could be nice and Italian thing. And maybe that would be enough to get some of the snap back. What do you think mustaches? Anyway, give it a shot. Give us a ring. Color you you're on the air. Hey, Dave, how you doing? Hi.

This is Matthew actually you just answered a couple of my questions before Nice.

Were you the caller on the line that we got dropped by mistake? Yeah, I got disconnected. Alright, good. So at least we didn't lose you permanently. What's up? Happy New Year?

By asking too many questions.

That's alright. Happy New Year. What's up? Happy New

Year to you. Actually, I got a small pork shoulders rows that I want to throw my circulator right now. I just browse the throat and I've done beef short ribs before, like 48 hours for about 50. And I love them. They came out great. I haven't found much information on pork shoulder.

All right. Yeah. You're good news. Good news and bad news on the pork shoulder. Anytime you're doing a low temperature cook on something that contains multiple muscles in it and pork shoulder is a prime example, certain muscles are going to be perfect at the end of the cook time and other muscles aren't. So the muscles in the pork shoulder that have more connective tissue in them are going to be really good when they're cooked in a very similar way to a short rib. So like, you know, like 48 hours that like, or you could do like probably 36 hours at like 60 degrees, something in there in that range, which is 140, somewhere in that range for a pork shoulder is going to be good. And, and all of the muscles that contain connective tissue are going to be good right there. You know, I mean,

I took a look at the rows, it's pretty small. And it all looks like well, marble, but pretty much, you know, it's small, about five inches across, I think maybe a little smaller, and they all look good. They all look like the right muscles so much short rib.

Yeah, but a little higher. People don't like to see their people don't like to see their pork to pink out on them, unless you cure it with an insecure beforehand. So in which case, they don't notice because they can't tell. But you Yeah, I would go like up in the 60 degree range, like between 60 and 60 is still gonna be quite pink. So you're going to put a nice sear on it. If you're not, you can go all the way up to 62, I wouldn't go above 62, right? It depends on your customer, or your family or whatever. If just for me, actually, it tastes good at 60. But it's still kind of it's going to be kind of soft, and it's going to be pink. So if that's a problem for you visually, then go higher all the way up to 62. Or you can like I say you could put a hard sear on it, you'll notice if there are some muscles that didn't have a lot of connective tissue in it, they will appear it at this point to be a little bit fibery though there'll be tender, and they won't be dry. But they there'll be a little five range. So when you when you do it just you know, keep a lookout for that just in case you notice it.

Alright, another question on the same subject if I was breaking down, you know, whole pork shoulder and I wanted to cook it, you know, in the circulator? How would I you know, just look for the muscles that appear to have more connective tissue or marbling kind of or is that?

Yeah, so like, I'll give you one that I can visualize in my head. So therefore I can tell you is like on a on pork belly. If you get the whole pork belly, almost all of it is good. But there's that one muscle that runs in the opposite direction from the most in the pork belly that looks like a little oval, on the top of that muscle. If you look at that, it doesn't have any sort of connective tissue on the inside. And then that muscle itself on its own is fairly tender. That one doesn't respond to low temperature cooking for a long time very well, to give you an example.

All right. Thank you very much.

Thank you. All right, right. Didn't tell us how it works. All right, bye.

Have a good day.

You too. All right. We're gonna go to our first commercial break, come back, call your questions to 718-417-2128 that 718-497-2128 cooking issues ready to come You can

go and Welcome back to Cooking issues Jack What song was that? The Delfonics Nice. Nice. Nice and we have a caller caller you are on the air.

Hey, how's it going? It's Brian.

Hey, what's up?

How you doing? Listen, I'm calling in New York. I'm coming later in the week and I wanted to see what join the starship thought about restaurants to visits and some stores. I should be going to pick up some, some fun and fun stuff.

All right, so what kind of okay last I'll tell you where I shop and the stash will tell you where she shopped. If you like Italian food, do you like Italian food? Or, okay, go to the Palos but budget Depaolo is is like the Italian market. It's on Grand Street and mot. But budget some time because it's going to take forever. If you're lucky, you'll get one of the family members like Louie or Sal, or Maria or Rene, who's actually not a family member, but is awesome. And it's kind of one of the gems of New York City. I've been going I don't know well over a decade, well well over a decade. But that's a that's a great place. If you want kitchen equipment, you're going to go check out JB Prince, which is like it's in like 31st 32nd Street, just on the east side. It's on the 11th floor. It's like a jewelry box of like crazy, awesome equipment you're going to want to check out. You're going to check out for cookbooks, kitchen Arts and Letters, which is way uptown in the 90s. It's the best cookbook store I've ever been in. And the people who run it know so much about cookbooks that you will be embarrassed if you don't actually buy from them if you sneak off and buy it on Amazon instead because there were supporting what do you think for what do you think nostalgia for restaurants?

are the main ones that you always want? Or you

mentioned some That's what

you always talking about no posts on WD 50 And, and milkbar. But you know, everybody knows the comments on that. That's a little off the radar.

I'm gonna have to have mustache I think she's gonna think about that for a minute and have an actual response instead of just saying Why don't you talk about it? Which I could say myself I don't need to ask you to ask me to talk about it anyway. Well, while she's thinking about that, what When are you coming? What dates

coming tomorrow and I'm there for a week and a half?

Yeah, yeah, just gonna miss when theoretically I'm not allowed to announce anything theoretically when our bar is going to open? Yeah. Just barely, but the bars obviously you're going to want to go to the PDT death, unco. pegu club, little branch looking. He's kind of hard to get into sometimes you got any restaurants there and stuff. You You're the one that always recommends restaurants for people.

I know. No, I know. We go to some really terrible restaurants.

Well, good. Totally good. What

about lunch at Teresa's? Oh, Therese is really

good. And you know about Roberta's obviously otherwise you wouldn't be calling in Roberta is he got to stop? Yeah. Oh, and if you want to chase them, if you want to taste and this is off the radar. Look, okay, right pumping heritage meats. But if you want to taste some delicious American country hams, the Essex Street Market shop for Heritage meats has a cut probably the best supply other than a sambar of American country hams to try of people that are using heritage meats, but are also great producers like Benton's and and Nancy Mahaffey at Colonel Newsom's and, and as well as Edwards who's a sponsor the network blah, blah, blah, blah, blah. What else does he or she's going to think about this crap all right. And then hydrocolloid

were you know, any good place to fix something like that?

No, I buy online. I just buy online like Go Go to any one of the online suppliers like modernist pantry or, you know, Tara spice or any of that Amazon now is linked up with some of these guys. You can get it really quickly. I've never walked into a store and bought bought stuff here. In terms of hydrocolloids, you know, and we don't even have in New York City, really great homebrew shops. There's a small homebrew shop at the whole foods, but nothing, you know, nothing really to write home about and going to specialty markets. I mean, oh,

there's a weird, why don't you send me an email, and then I'll send you an email back or we'll

try and think about it and we'll and we'll start it off on the next on the next program or something? Well, I used to be too late for you. Anyway, we've given you some good recommendations and email. All right. All right. Thanks, having another caller. Oh, we have another caller caller

you're on the air. their

day this is Joshua

Stokes say don't do it all right, what's up? I asked you in the next few days and make a lot more terrain and I wanted to do it low temperature if I could you give me some pointers on either making a terrain or tour shown

what's gonna go in? Is it tween basically 100% For Agra with flavoring, you're adding other stuff to it? Yes, that's

just the Fogra. Yeah.

Now, okay, I have to be honest, I don't cook because it's really expensive. And it's not normally my it's not one of the things I normally cook if you go on so I'd be basically be telling you from long time ago memory what to do. But there's there's various different ways of doing the terrain in terms of the time and temperature, typically, what you would do is you would pack it either in a terrain mold inside of a bag, or you could pack it just alone inside of a bag. And then, depends on how you want it whether you want it basically meekly, like partially cooked or whether you want to kind of all the way cook through most people, I think now tend to go on the low side of cooked. And it's one of the few things that is still cooked at what they say is a delta temperature where the waterbath temperature is slight, you're doing this cvwd Right, my memory just zapped out you're doing a CV, I

would say low temperature, I don't have an actual vacuum machine. Alright, so

you do it in a vacuum in a Ziploc bag. No problem. They, most people put a slight delta delta t on it just because you don't want it to cook for a very, very long time. Because the longer it cooks, even at the lower temperatures, the more kind of fat leakages, you're gonna get out of it, you know what I'm saying? So they tend to go, they're trying to try to do it a little, a little bit more more quickly. Go on to cooking issues.com, go to the suevey primer, see the low temperature primer. And in that in the pretty pictures, charts, there is a section on I believe there's a temperature there for flog raw terrain, if not, there, they're cooked low, like in the low to mid 50s Celsius, usually cooked at something like 60 degrees Celsius to something like 5455 in that range for a higher temp cookie go up to like 57 but I wouldn't go higher than that. I wish I could remember off the top of my head but those numbers are in the primer in the pretty pictures. Charts. Especially redacted, redacted from Bruno Gousto. George perlu, and one Roque has recipes on foglights. You mean? Okay, great. Thank you very much. No problem. Good luck. And sorry, I didn't have it right off the top of my head. Oh, probably. I should cook more foie gras, right? Yeah. I really just I just don't cook very awesome. Weird. Okay. Oops. Getting getting a picture in the stash lads. Explain to me what it is in a minute. Hold second. So, got a question in from Andrew from Andrew. said about teeth brushing this morning I was brushing my teeth as I habitually do every morning, we hope when I brush my teeth, I also brush my tongue as to remove the horrible morning breath germs and whatnot. I took pause this morning. And thought does this abrasive action hurt my tongue and therefore my taste buds and palate? This may be pure paranoia, but as a budding professional cook, I'm doing my best to taste everything. Develop a palate and not swallow some lie making a joke on me swallowing live. Burning half of my tongue by the way. That's Andrew from MPLS. What's MPLS? I don't know. Anyway, I did burn off a huge chunk of my tastebuds with lie, but they grew back. Thank goodness. So it's a curious question. So not just brushing your teeth, but they sell tongue scrapers to scrape kind of your tongue off and the eye and first of all I looked up is this is tongue scraping and teeth brushing actually effective tongue brushing effective. And I looked into an article called The impact of different tongue cleaning methods on bacterial load of the tongue from 2008. And yes, not once but habitual cleaning of the tongue via scraping and I would assume also by brushing does reduce bacterial load on the tongue. Okay, and therefore, you know, helps with halitosis and whatnot. But I read in another book, The toxicology of the eye, ear and other special senses by Andrew Wallace Hayes, that yes, in fact, tastebuds do get abraded, right, and T cells do get damaged by abrasion. However, it only takes about 10 days, the average the average lifespan of a taste receptor cells about 10 days, they're getting turned over all the time. So if you abrade some, right and you ruin some, they're just going to grow back. So it's not like you're going to get any sort of permanent long term loss from scraping or from brushing. And you have to think about this is that if you have some sort of stank taste in your mouth, right, that's going to affect your palate as much as as you know, wiping away a few few tastebuds when you think so Anastacia now it is true that you should not brush your teeth anytime close to when you're going to be tasting or cooking. And in fact, there's a whole body of research out there on how to neutralize the effect of The effect of brushing teeth in tasting panels because a huge problem in the industry where they're doing tasting panels, and taking notes for food manufacturers for coffee, etc, etc. People who brush their teeth and then try to tastings because toothbrush, toothbrushes and toothpaste, wipes out your palate for a good length of time. So there's a whole I didn't get a chance to go reread all that there's a huge research body on that so you should not brush your teeth with toothpaste anytime near when you're going to be eating, eating professionally and with if you do, you should be chewing on a bunch of carrots and drinking a bunch of stuff to wash away the toothbrush taste? Yeah, yeah, yeah. Okay. Ryan Santos writes in Hey, David is Dasha, happy new year I recently acquired some locally raised pheasants having no experience with them. I was hoping to get some suggestions on how to prepare them whole roasted suevey Whichever they're all two to three pounds. It's small. And cooking recommendations seem to vary widely from 15 to 20 minutes to 1.5 hours help. Okay, here's the problem with pheasants. pheasants are delicious, but they're very easy to overcook. The legs are tough and the breast if it over cooks is useless that said pheasant delicious right. Now, there's two basic ways you can do this. I would never cook for one and a half hours. That's just too dang long. If you want to do a roast pheasant, just a super high temperature to crisp up the outside to get some nice flavor without overcooking it. I've done that I've I've grilled pheasant over like raging wildfires. Basically, the outside was burnt the inside was raw and it was still delicious. You know back in the day, if you want to do it low temperatures, I think it'd be the best way to get kind of a high end result out of it, what I would do is I would cut off the breasts right? Then cut off the legs cooked the legs separately, you could do a brace of the legs or whatever, because they're going to be tough anyway. Take the bones, make a stock with it. Take the breasts, cook them at around 57 degrees Celsius for and they're very thin. So I would cook them only for like 20 minutes. Let them cool down, right? And then quick sear. Like not like rendering duck fat but like quick sear very high to crisp up the skin on the outside. Serve them and you're done. That's what I think you should do. Maybe 58 What do you think? Yes, the statue doesn't really care. Okay, so should we go to our second break or no? No, no. Okay, good. Sebastian writes in Hey, David. Natasha, by the way, in case you have a question, call in to 7184972. What do either some 24 and 72128 Hey, David, Mr. Shah, I love that you guys have put together such an amazing radio show. Amazing radio show. Thank you very much. I'm a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America and love that I have a resource for learning about advanced and cutting edge cooking techniques. Here are my questions. I've been making root beer from scratch using the recipe from America's Test Kitchen. You can find the recipe at www Americans test test fishing key. But remember, you look for online America's Test Kitchen Root Beer recipe. The root beer is quite delicious and amazing. It's carbonated with yeast and has a great depth of flavor. The only thing I'd like to improve is the head. It has a small head when it was first poured and then dies off very quickly. Is there something I can do to make it have more of a Guinness type long lasting head? That would be nice and foamy? Perhaps adding some liquid lecithin would do the job? Or what I add or what what or when would I or what would I add to it? Do I have any recommendations for percentages to try? Or is there anything else to get this effect? Thanks Sebastian from Napa Valley. Alright, Sebastian, I wouldn't go with lecithin for this. Less than nice wouldn't go for it for this, what I would use what the pros use for beer stabilization is you can use gum arabic, by the way as a bonding aid aid and that's fairly you know, friendly, also fairly expensive. And that can be used to stabilize the head a little bit although I've known have any experience with it. The really the thing for stabilizing the head of beer and whatnot. They have newer ones that are cheaper, but it's propylene glycol, alginate PGA and you can buy it from a homebrew shop under the name heading powder, or professionally one of the brand names of its stable foam. And what PGA is, is it's a modified alginate just like seaweed gel like you'd get Now, PGA is one of the two or three hydrocolloid 's that are used by people that aren't all natural doesn't occur in nature. And it's also fairly expensive. But unlike alginate, it is very good. In acidic environments, it's extremely stable. It's, it's just a good step and use it in very, very low quantities like somewhere in the range of like 80 parts per million or something like that very low quantities. Usually you'd make a water solution with it and then add a little bit of that water solution to your to your product before you do the final fermentation with the yeast, okay. This is what you add to beer basically for a super, super stable stable foam. So I would I would do that. If you have a problem with using something that's not 100% natural like PGA there are other things under the under the they're basically beer foam stabilizers that you can add but I don't know what they're made out of. I assume it's like some sort of like busted up pectin are some sort of crazy thing that's, you know, maybe a little bit cheaper than PGA or maybe a little bit more natural you know that then PGA but that's that's what I would go for the other thing is that the head in beer is related to the is related to the kind of surface active principle of the of liquid itself which is why different liquids with the same amount of co2 in them can have different kinds of heads in them and why beers which have like a lot of especially the stick ones that have stuff leftover from the from the barley and whatnot have a bigger head you know, gaining potential so you there are probably other ingredients you could add to your root beer that would increase the head I don't happen to know off the top my head what they are. I just know this, you know, the whiz bang add the PGA and go, but I would definitely research that there's been a lot of research done in the beer head point. Yeah. Yeah. Okay.

Now Andrew Switzer writes in with something that mustache I don't know whether you checked it out. But yeah, so this is about mustaches famous but as yet on photographed vegan face, and Andrew writes in and says you should go to YouTube and type in sugar honey iced tea that a vegan would say that's my way of saying that curse word on a family member family show now. I wonder how that project worked out, by the way. Anyway, it worked out well. They called back in again. There's no way we after that they're still working on it. We're talking about the low temps who beat thing anyway. So yeah, crap that a vegan will say crap that a vegan would say although it's not crap, it's another word. It starts with us. But you can look at that. But that guy doesn't have a vegan face. Like it's his normal face. Yeah.

Well, he's a vegan.

He is a vegan. And he has a face. Right? But he's not making a face. That's the face of a vegan. Not in a star. She's vegan face. Yeah, yeah. By the way, speaking of not vegan, my older son, you know, Booker says, Daddy, I like candy. Candy is my favorite mattacks My younger one was I like meat. Like that? Yes. It's good stuff. Like bagels. Why? Why are you trying to get me started on the air? Natasha, by the way. So yesterday, any of you who have kids know that you take your kid out to lunch? You take the kid out to lunch, they don't eat, you're spending a lot of money. And they're like, first of all, if they're not eating, what are they doing? They're shoving their finger up their nose or sneezing on the person next to them without covering their mouth. They're doing all sorts of horrible things. Because of course, that's the way it works. And they're not eating so you're spending money and they're not eating and what happens you get angry, right? Yeah, right. So then, Natasha, I had a problem a piece of equipment broke. I was like, Natasha, can you help me out? And can you watch the kids for a second? Yes. And so then she goes and takes them out and buys them bagel which sounds like a really good thing except for basically it was a way as an end around for them to not eat the lunch that we bought them right. Right. And then the starch is like I went around anymore. Why am I even getting into this is crazy. All right. Let's go to our second commercial break call any questions 271-847-2128 That's 718-497-2128

If I had time for about you, dream about you. He has to without you?

And welcome back to Cooking he has what was that one Jack? More Delfonics nice, beautiful. Calling your questions. 27184972128. That's 718-497-2128 by the way. In case you were wondering if I shouldn't do this is ridiculous. I'm gonna get I'm gonna get sued for this. Natasha wants me to do this. By the way. I'm basically just nostos his puppet for

this year promoting his who he is. But does he

want promotion? Yes. Yeah. All right. So those of you those of you who have listened to the show, you know a lot. You might know that there's a character here at Roberta as a waiter that we call indeed Jesus, and we found out his name so that you can go look at his Facebook profile. And you can see, you know, kind of what we're talking about because you know, you know very rarely we're here in a box you don't know where to start and I can't read his name aloud because I can't read your writing.

Dante is his first name Damien is his middle and Dali. Dali is his last name. Alright,

so you know, you should friend to be a fan. Big fan fan. Big fan. We want you to be a fan.

Say we set up a date between the stars. Yeah.

This is not a hate throwdown. This is a this is a this is a love. This is a love thing. It's a love thing. Okay. Okay, Mark younger writes in. Hi, David. Natasha, I've been listening to the podcast since late last spring. And finally caught up, I noticed that Dave frequently gives low temperature cooking times, but that he never states at what temperature the food is when it is placed in the circulator. While for longer times, it is probably does not make any difference. There are occasions when he talks about cooking some items eg fish for relatively short periods of time. So is there a general assumption that everything is coming straight from a refrigerator? And therefore with a template in the high 30s? Or is there some other assumed starting temperature? Thanks, Mark younger? Okay. It's an excellent question, actually, because we really haven't addressed this issue. And the temperature at which the product starts does have an effect, obviously, on how long something takes to cook through. Now, most of the work that I do, I'm assuming that something's getting pulled straight from the fridge, just because I don't have time to have stuff sitting around for you know, forever. And so most of my work is straight from the fridge with the with, I know, there's some exceptions, but I can't think of them off the top of my head. Most of us have come straight from the fridge. That said, if you have a different temperature, there are programs like soothie dash that we talked about before on the on the program that will allow you to put the starting temperature of the product in so that you can figure out how long it takes. The other thing is that I typically on something like a thin piece of fish, it's true that you don't want to cook it for too long. You don't want to cook it for you know, more than 20 minutes or so. But that's enough time typically to make it up to temperature, whether or not the product if it's thin, very thin. Whether the product starts at, you know, 38 or 48, you know Fahrenheit, because it's just you have much more time than is needed. So I usually try to build into my cooking technique, enough time to make up for any sort of variance areas based on the initial temperature of the meat. Obviously, it's a big deal if you're trying to do a Delta temperature or if you're working with razor thin margins. For instance, if you're doing fish that is cooked Allah minute, and you're using a delta t, let's say you're cooking a fish at in a 60 degree water bath, but you only want the inside to make it up to like 5556 Celsius. Now we're on Celsius apologize going back and forth. But then obviously, the initial starting temperature is going to make a big difference. Because in that case, you're counting on the seconds being right when you're cooking. And so for that it's absolutely vital temperature be the same every time. I don't think it's so vital. If you've built in like a good 10 to 15% overage on the amount of time you're cooking, which is typically I'm at least at that number. But it's still it's an excellent question and something that should be addressed. I think fridge temperature is the easiest temperature because it's usually within, you know, two three degrees. And so it's a good thing to start from. And again, as long as you can repeat it, then it doesn't really matter, right? You if you did everything and it always start at the same temperature, then it wouldn't matter. It would just work the same. You just correct recipes, but fridge is easy to maintain. And that's what I use. Yeah. Okay. Harlan writes in. Hi, David. Natasha, I just ran across this great article in Smithsonian on potatoes. Have you seen it? I have not seen it. Go to Smithsonian Smithsonian mag.com How the potato changed the world. And then Harlan writes in there must be amazing kickass french fries, French fry possibilities in the 1000s of varieties of potatoes they've got in Peru. Well, there are some amazing books on potatoes out of the article. By the way, it's cool. You should read the article but there's some amazing books about potatoes. I have one by the Brooklyn Botanic Brooklyn Botanical Garden has a whole series of books by the way, one of which is tech tubers of the world, which is pretty cool, pretty kick butt little little book. But here's some stuff that I thought was interesting from that article that I will share with you is a quote from the article while potatoes are laced with solanine and Thoma teen toxic compounds believed to defend the plants against attacks from dangerous organisms like fungi, bacteria and human beings. Cooking often breaks down such chemical defenses but not solely and tormented. This is why by the way, when a potato turns green, that's chlorophyll but it also indicates that other things are happening including an increased solani level, which is why you shouldn't eat potatoes that are green, or if you do you should peel the hell out of them which we've actually talked about on the show before. However, here's the cool thing in the mountains of in the mountain As these animals I can't even pronounce, lick clay before eating poisonous plants, the toxins adsorbed to the fine clay particle particles in the animal's stomach passing through the digestive system without affecting it. Mimicking this process mountain peoples apparently learned to dunk wild potatoes in a gravy made of clay and water a cools that eventually they bred less toxic potatoes as some of the old poisonous varieties remain favored for their resistance to frost and clay dust is still sold in Peruvian and Bolivian markets to accompany them. So first of all, there's this famous recipe from Mugaritz right about dipping clay in sorry, dipping potatoes and kale in which is clay, right? We're in Kailyn also great adsorbers uses the wind finding agent and so I don't even know if they know this I don't even know if you know Andonian Oh, those guys know this. But apparently this is a traditional thing to dip potatoes in clay or in some sort of kale and thing I thought that was pretty cool. Pretty cool thing. Another thing that they mentioned in the article are true Neo Blonko which you know, we've I've mentioned before I think on the air, but this is kind of Inca freeze dried potato. And basically they these potatoes are like frozen and then thrown in a well and then frozen and thawed again and they dry out like really like old school. Like you know pre technological freeze drying technology. And Natasha and I made them thinking this is going to be the most awesome thing in the world. And they smelled like like a like a goats bedding. Right? That's pretty nice way to put it like and tasted like a goats bedding. And so you know, I have a standing thing and I'll repeat it now here's a standing offer. I will give I Don't Know Jack, can I do this? I will give a heritage meat of some type. Can I do this? Yeah, yeah. Jack will pick out a nice heritage meat of some type. And I will give it to anyone that can phone or write in a decent way to prepare Junio Blonko potatoes It doesn't taste like a like I just licked a live goat.

Yeah, what meat would go well with those potatoes? goat? Goat? Well, I don't know if we have goat?

Oh, yeah, but oh yeah, we can give away whatever you think Jacqueline. I'm sure you know, I'll just want someone to write in with a good recipe. The last interesting I'll mentioned from this article, extremely, extremely interesting. And it relates to goat poop. Not really goats but poop is. So apparently there's these islands that off of Peru, the Chincha islands that for you know, millennia were coated in bird poop bird guano, right? And they're started when they realized that guano had in it. Nitrogen it was useful for fertilizer in the 1840s there began a rush for mining and or collecting guano shipping it over to Europe to use as a fertilizer, right? So literally people would go fill a boat up with poo, and then take the poo across the ocean and sell the poo. Right? Anyway. Not you know, it's not it's no bat guano was bird guano. But anyway, you know, guano, guano is guano. Okay. Well, it turns out that the current research is that and I can't pronounce it, Phytophthora infestans, right, which is potato blight blight, right. was brought to Europe on a poop boat. Poop. What a boat full of poop. Yeah, so they were filled with poop and one of those poop boats brought over the potato blight so potato comes from Peru and then also this blight apparently this native stock is is resistant comes over and that's what caused the potato famine. Poop boats. Anyway, happy New Year from the poop boat is cooking issues.

But oh sorry I have one more comment from somebody emailed in tell them my mic is screwed up tell the live caller about corn for knives. Oh yeah. Oh,

oh yeah. Da da that's fine. Okay, going out to Brian go to colonize I can't believe I overlooked this I have actually bought some Christmas presents there for my for my mom. Here's my recommendation corn knives sells like Japanese kitchen stuff but they're known for their Japanese knives. It's the best Japanese knife place I've ever seen. Here's the only issue with it. Bring money. Bring lots of money because you can't go to Korean without spending a lot of money because it's just so amazing. Cooking issues

oh you don't know where I'm supposed to be my baby. Plan and man. You got my hair. Oh, twist I can't get it straight.

Thanks for listening to this program on the heritage radio network. You can find all of our archived programs on heritage Radio network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching heritage radio network in the iTunes store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on twitter for up to date news and information. Thanks for listening.

Now when my baby sees me, she's going to bust my head right in finishes things Oh, you do. God me on this corner.