Cooking Issues Transcript

Episode 65: Pecans, Vodka, Brining & More


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broadcasting live from Roberta's in Bushwick, Brooklyn, you're listening to heritage Radio network.com.

Hello, and welcome to cooking issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of cooking issues coming to you live every tuesday from around 1212 45 from the back of Roberta's pizzeria in Bushwick Brooklyn on the heritage radio network. A jack our engineer Jack in the booth as always, my headphones appear to be not working Ah thank you joining us usual in the station with Anastasia the hammer Lopez cooking issues hammer and usual resident menial or just called back let the caller our caller Hello caller you are on the air.

Hi, Dave. Just a quick question about the con specifically since it's a time of year where you can get a whole unskilled because I like to get a bunch of you know cones and other bolt nuts and crack and myself and old nuts either the con itself or that reddish stuff. The inside like the pits sort of Right, right. Sudden, just it's bitter and mass dry and and just kind of not acidic, but it's really dragged on my mouth. What's up with that.

All right, so the skin of nuts like that. And pecans is one the one I think it's been more studied is walnuts, the skin the kind of like silvery this the reddish brownish skin around it has a lot of tannins in it that are going to dry out your mouth and can be bitter. And the same goes true for a lot of nuts, which is why for instance, when you use hazelnuts, you often heat them briefly and then rub the skins off. So you I mean, pecans are kind of a pain. I don't really see a lot of recipes where you're supposed to take the skin off of a pecan. Have you ever seen that in a recipe? I've never seen that recipe? No, No, me neither. But the strange thing about this phenomenon is that and I know more about walnuts with this is that different cultivars of walnut will have radically different stringency and bitterness associated with that skin layer. So as you know, it all depends on exactly who you're getting it from, etc, etc. You could try to a hot roast and rub between towels, any percentage of that skin that you get off of there is going to decrease that perception. The downside is is that it's not going to look like a pecan anymore for for, you know, for what people are, are used to doing if you notice this specifically in a person that you're buying bulk from.

Now I just usually get them, you know, Diamond, diamond or whoever, just in a bulk bag. And when I do that, because I really noticed the bitterness. I don't really notice it so much for the other nuts, oddly enough,

yeah. Do you not even fall on that so?

Well, I mean, a little bit, because, like, sometimes they just really zoom me or whatever?

Well, you know, like, so, you know, we used to make a lot. And hopefully we will, again, pecan oil and pecan butter in, in a centrifuge. And the bottom layer of that has all of that stuff that you're talking about the you know, because this the skin layer settles to the bottom when you're centrifuging it. And so, you know, that's one way to get rid of it. Do you live in the south? Yeah, I mean, what I would do is search out a, you know, a really like, I looked online once, because we were looking into selling that oils school a couple years back, and I found a couple of very, I can't remember their names, unfortunately, off top my head, but a couple of super high quality producers, you know, that will give you fresh this year's crop right when they get it and just sure loads higher than whatever the commercial stuff is. And strangely, the prices weren't that bad. You know what I mean? So you might want to look into that. And then the folks that I spoke to on the phone, where, you know, and this is the good thing about dealing with real people is they actually grew the darn thing. So if you tell them your concerns they can they could probably steer you the right way.

So does age affect it also? Well,

age, I don't know about age and astringency. I mean, obviously, nuts, as they age get rancid. And, you know, they tend to not be as good. I mean, and that's why, you know, it's always best to vacuum pack, you know, in cans, you know, crush them too much. But it's always best best to vacuum pack. Things that are high in oil content. So a lot of nuts when they're commercially produced or vacuum packed for that reason, or nitrogen flushed or any one of a number of things you can do to remove the oxygen so that you don't have oxidation problems. So nuts are definitely unstable. I mean, I'm sure you've had you've had some nuts sitting out for a while and you try to get the the sort of stale, obviously. And then you try to get the Christmas back by roasting them for a minute letting them cool down. And the tasteless isn't the same. It's just they've either gone stale permanently or gone rancid because they have such a high oil content, you know?

Yeah. Very cool. Do you think this has anything like when you get a funky batch of pine nuts? You know, you get that pain? That mouth condition?

I haven't I haven't researched what that is. I think that's probably something like very specific and I don't know that might be I don't know anything about it. So I hesitate to speculate. But, for instance, I'm told that it's a fungal problem, like a bad pistachio, and that those are actually extremely toxic because of high levels of aflatoxin that are present. And anyone that's ever bitten into a bad pistachio knows that it's like one of the most horrible things that could possibly happen to you. Definitely don't eat that. No, don't eat that. In fact, we used to make a pistachio oil and butter and what we you know, at the school, we would get these three pound tins of nuts, right from a reputable person. And so, one time I had an intern make a batch of pistachio butter with it. And they just threw the tin into the into our grinder and then into our centrifuge and that stuff tasted awful. I then from then on, I said, Hey, look, you have to throw all of the pistachios onto a sheet, big sheet tray and you have to look at them all. And we took out all the ones that had yellowed, you know, with age that weren't green anymore, all the ones that look shriveled and the stuff tasted great. So, you know, I know what pistachios they're extremely fragile. You know, and most suppliers, you know, if you're buying bulk shelled nuts, they don't, they're not giving you the they're not giving you necessarily 100% of the best even if they're a reputable manufacturer. Okay, only takes a couple bad nuts to really ruin things. Yeah. Anyway, good luck with that and let us know how it works out for you.

Alright, thanks a lot, David. Keep bringing the awesome, thanks.

Alrighty, so let me see. I am I'm late as usual. And we are being held to our time today because there's a live show coming on to heritage radio network. And so I'm gonna read the promo after the first break. I'm just gonna start going into questions. Okay, Andy writes in heinous, dashing Dave. I recently acquired a massive 21 pound free range age country him from Nancy new Summit. Nancy Mahaffey, actually, from Nancy Mahaffey at Colonel Newsom's hands and there's bunch of cursing about how delicious it is. Holy effing sugar honey iced tea delicious, which it is I actually happen to like that ham a lot had incredible marbling, I want to figure out a way to get the best yield from the ham while eating it over a few months, started into the less meaty side of the ham. Less meaty side would be the, you know, the, they call it the forward top side, I think Serrano styli II along the length, but I'm thinking about boning it out and bonding it back together prosciutto style and then slice it across the face of the ham. I practice the boning on a smaller home cured ham. So I think I've got good butchering method, but how does the home cook press and bind it back together? I assume some form of meat glue, any recommendations for which style to use, etc, etc. The bone will leave a big hole How do I ensure that I can press the the hole completely shut. As a side note. This hammer is much thicker than either the Serato or the prosciutto. But I can't think of a way that will affect the preparation. First of all, a couple of notes. For those of you that don't have don't eat American country hams Colonel nuisance hams out of Kentucky is one of my favorite producers they've been producing for a long, long time the recipe is several 100 years old. Nancy Mahaffey is the current proprietor and cure master of that place. They have a distinction that they only cure one time a year at the traditional time in the winter, and then the hams are aged, however old they are. She sometimes has hams that are over a year old. But in general, you can judge the age of the ham, based on how long after the winter it is right now. So the hams that she has leftover now or a year old if you can get there good. Another thing is that she has been working with heritage foods, our parent people's to get some high, very high quality ham in that has a lot of marbling, so she's been doing that. I think Benton's has been doing that Benton's hands and Edwards hands. And I've had I haven't had that I've had a little bit of Nancy's it was good. I had a lot of Edwards one, which was excellent. They're all good. Because I've said for many years that American hand masters we, you know, they have the ability to cure, they have the know how they're, you know, they're they're masters at it. But what what has been lacking is the quality of the raw material. And so these people have been joining up with folks like Patrick Martin's and trying to kind of rectify that and be able to produce a ham that has the same kind of quality in the meat as the highest end European style hams. And I have to say they are, they're some incredibly delicious things. Where you say as a side note that this ham is much thicker than either the serrano and the Cousteau, it really does affect the preparation has a lot to do with the way American hands are hung. American hands typically were designed, even the you know the country here and wants to be eaten in slices, and then briefly cooked or cooked and then sliced. And so they wanted to be a little wetter than you would on your average European ham. They're hung in the opposite direction from a normal European ham and they're not squished flat. And so they have the cushion, that big part of the meat, the cushion area is a lot thicker than it would be in in a European ham. And what that means is, is that you're going to have a wetter center typically on that. And so it's going to be more difficult to get a perfect slice out of an American style ham that way than it would be to get out of a European ham. And you're also because of the way American hands are hung and an age, you're gonna get more of a variation in salt level and density and water level between the outside of the meat, especially towards the face towards where it was cut off of the animal where there's no skin and the center of the cushion where it's going to be the softest. So it does affect preparation. It's not better, it's not worse, but it does affect it. Now on to your real question here, which is how do i Well, you already have a boning technique, the best ways to go, F Dick cutlery makes a what looks like a long gouge that you can use like a tunnel boning thing that you can get in. And that's what a lot of the people use to get the bones out. Effectively, I have to say that boning a prosciutto and a country ham is the only time in my life I've ever broken a knife, at least that I've ever broken and when and while it wasn't breaking it on purpose. So you know they are difficult to bone depending on how old they are right younger one like seven, eight month old not gonna be a problem. But year, year and a half, it can become a kind of a nightmare to bone out and keeping one piece assuming you have a good technique to bone out that take the bone out you're going to have a hole in the center. And even the professionals here when they bone it are not going to take be able to squish that hole flat. And the reason is, it takes an immense amount of pressure to do that. So in pursuit auto dipalma What they'll do is they'll they'll age it bone in like like like God wants you to they'll remove the bone and then they'll put it into a ham mold. And the ham mold has a water cooling because otherwise the ham would heat up too much and it would affect the flavor of the ham and they put it under immense pressure inside of a metal mold that's very well cooled in order to compress it into that ham shape, exclude any oxygen or anything else from the inside of that gap. I don't think you're going to be able to do that. I just don't think it's possible. Another problem with with enclosing that hole is you could be sealing something and you might want to let it dry out a little more in there, especially on an American hand that can be a little wetter on the inside. Then European ham, you're also going to want to make sure you cut off any kind of bad areas or taint around that. Now, if you wanted to try, I encourage you to try and tell me what happens. Yes, you can sprinkle some meat glue in that thing, put it between two plates on hydraulic press and and press it flat. I don't know what kind of results you're going to have. It's not typically something you would do. And I just might make this suggestion is it because American hams weren't necessarily cured in order to slice in one whole piece, I would remove the section below the bone. And then you just have the section above the bone that you can slice as its own. It's gonna have a little kind of semicircle mark in it, but that's okay. And then the bottom piece, which is a lot tougher anyway, is going to, you know, maybe be served as a separate separate preparation. Anyway, my thoughts what do you think that? That sounds

good? Do you want to take a break? It's 24.

I don't know do I want to take a break? Just gonna go all the way through. I'll take one more and I'll do a break. Okay. And I don't have the person's name, unfortunately, but another faithful faithful listener from iTunes, and also a big fan of heritage radio in general, big shout out to Harry's radio. I have three brining questions. Is there a rule of thumb for the Brian to Brian strength to soak time? I'm looking for general Brian I can customize to accommodate the amount of time I have to Brian some days I can do an overnight some days I want to do an hour soak. Does the addition of herbs or other flavors in a Brian come through in the end product? I see many recipes for complex Brian's with multiple flavor additions. Is this just showing off? And is there a Brian concentration that can reduce the risk of salmonella or other bugs? I refrigerate and cook properly. But I'm curious. Thanks. Okay. I am embarrassed to say this is a subject that I should have researched Long, long ago. But have not here's the issue with Brian strength. And so time there's a couple things that are Brian is doing salt, specifically, take salt for salt is flavoring your meat, right? That's one thing it's doing and also salt soaking through into the meat is altering the protein structure so that it can hold on to more water when it's cooked and thereby provide more. More insurance against overcooking. Now, I've definitely over Brian things, but you know, I haven't done the research. And what I'm saying is, is that I'm going to have to do more research before I can thoroughly answer this question. It's one of the few things that even though I've been doing it a lot and supposed to be a technical related Cook, who pays attention to this sort of nonsense. I have literally always done this by making a brine dipping my finger in it and tasting it. And I always make my Brian's pretty much the same, which is make them until they're salty as the ocean for chicken or poultry then add sugar until I can just barely taste the sweetness and then go I don't find that other flavors do too much to it. Except for the flavor the outside quite effectively. In vacuum bag situations. You can get some permeation in but not a lot. But I promise I'm gonna stop she's writing this down now. For me to do some research, maybe I'll go look in the Modernist Cuisine and see what they have to say about it and get back to you on that next week. Right and it's actually making a note she's pretend typing by the way folks, that's the statute pretend typing right? So I'll tell you when she's actually doing what I'm asking so that I can properly answer you some time but that wasn't it. Okay, so with that, let me go to our first commercial break all your questions 271-847-2128.

Welcome back to Cooking new shoes. By the way, Jack. I don't know if we're gonna get to it. But you had a shout out for a good, good intern music. Anyway, we'll get to in a minute. Okay. Hello, Natasha. My name is Jamie and my research on roto vApps. That's rotary evaporators for all of you not hip to the fact have led me time and time again to the cooking issues blog, which I have not updated in a long time and I apologize more on that later. I am looking into using a roadmap for distilling produce from our 72 acre farm. I had a few questions that I was wondering if Dave may answer currently we're looking into buying a larger roadmap for a line of spirits we intended to still in the near future, depending on yield. We were looking into producing everything from start to finish without rectifying any existing base. Beer it's a by neutral spirits made off site and infusing them with stuff and then re distilling them on the road of that. I understand the equipment will distill alcohol out of a solvent while maintaining the flavors to the truest form, which is true. That's the case. I just want to know how much can we rely on the road of app to get a low wine mash? A low wine is a low alcohol product or the first distillation run off of a normal thing to an ad proof finished liquor? I'm assuming so 80 Proof 40% finished liquor? Has they've ever heard of distilling one's own base spirit through the road of app? I've read the day personally buys low end vodka, sometimes I end to pay the taxes and not run into any legal issues. With that aside, could it be done from the mass straight to the road of app? running it through again and again? Thanks, Jamie oaks from Jamie at Tamworth garden.com Kenworth garden, I'd love a garden full of Tamworth pigs, wouldn't you be delicious garden? Good. Okay, so here's the deal. First of all, even though I do buy premade spirits and redistilled them, and therefore pay the taxes on it, it's still illegal. So it's still not legal for me to do it. You know, the reason it's illegal is because of tax bases, tax purposes, right. That's the reason that distillation is illegal. And our legal system hasn't figured out a way in most areas to kind of get around that, although things hopefully are changing soon and have been changing in certain places. That said, the laws specifically are written to prevent someone with a 72 acre farm from taking all of their produce on site, converting it into liquor and selling it without paying taxes. So if you're going to be doing it, either just don't, you know, tell anyone that you're doing it, or get a permit to do it. Because other otherwise, like that's exactly the kind of thing that that those those guys are looking at now. I have done, you know, distillation with wine before I've never distilled anything below about who's starting alcohol content was below about 12%. So the lowest alcohol content thing that I've really ever mean other than water, right, other than just water based stuff is about 12%. And I was easily able to get brandies well above 40% on one pass, period, bang. And it's because the way the road of app works, you know, when everything's under vacuum you can get in it's been a long time since I've researched the curves, but you can get there's a certain inherent like theoretical reflux rate on the inside. So it doesn't work the same way as with normal distillation with plates and plus the vacuum shifts everything around in terms of what boils off first excetera, etc. But I have taken whilst take port, which I do all the time, like 18 to 20, put that in and I'll get I'll get 100 Proof brandy off no sweat, no sweat. So 100 Proof sorry, yeah, 100 proof. So. So yes, that's definitely feasible, your speeds are going to be quite low, because unlike a normal still, you're going to need to provide, if you want to keep the temperatures extremely low to not affect the flavors of your fruits, you're going to have to use a cooling power other than tap water. If you're using a cooling power other than tap water, you are going to have to you're going to have to chill it. And that's going to be really expensive to chill all that stuff down. Alternatively, you can keep your temperatures somewhat higher, right. And then when your temperatures are higher, then you can use regular tap water or you know lime water, whatever process you know process water, stream water, whatever, you have to chill your roadmap down and keep your margins high enough on the temperature between the water bath and the in the cooling water large enough to be able to do a good job. But you have to test to see whether or not the stuff is going to taste the way you want it before you invest in a 20 and 3030 liter rotary evaporator. I highly, highly recommend you invest in a small rotary evaporator because the process scales up quite well from a small road of app to a big round of app. So you know, invest a couple of grand in a small road of app or go find someone that has one that you can use. So you can see whether you like the procedure before you invest in something as big as a large rotary evaporator, right? Because there's a lot of it takes a while to get to learn it. Another problem about doing baselines, like you're saying is that most rotary evaporators don't have a way to separate heads from tails. And you're gonna have a big, big problem on this. So what you're gonna have to do, I mean, I designed a pump for my rotary evaporator that allows me to taste the distillate as it works as it as it's produced. So I can do easy cuts between heads and tails when I'm doing a distillation, right. It makes my life a lot easier, but it's not something that's standardly available. If you need to do that. What you're going to need to do is over the course of your distillation run on the first pilot run You're going to have to figure out for X number of mil milliliters or liters of stuff that I put into the distillation flask, I got to throw away the first X amount. And you're going to do that by opening your system every you know, every you know, chunk of time and tasting it to see whether you've gotten rid of the heads. And then at the same time, you're gonna have to start tasting to see when the tables come in. And then hopefully that recipe scales from small to large. In my experience, it has scaled percentage wise, as long as your temperatures are the same, your you know, your the product that you're putting in is the same and the vacuum levels that you use the same but these are all things that are going to have to be tweaked out. So I wish you the best of luck and if you have any more questions please write them in because everybody knows I love aroma that I read the promo yet. Today's show is sponsored by modernist pantry supplying innovative ingredients for the modern cook. Do you love to experiment with new cooking techniques and ingredients but hate to overspend for pounds of supplies when only a few grams are needed per application? Modernist pantry has a solution they offer a wide range of modern ingredients and packages that makes sense for the home cooking enthusiast and most cost only around five bucks saving you time, money and storage space. Whether you're looking for hydrocolloid pH buffers, or even meat glue, you'll find it at modernist pantry. And if you need something that they don't carry, just ask Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to source it for you with inexpensive shipping to any country in the world monitors pantry is your one stop shop for innovative cooking ingredients, bands of cooking issues that place an order of $50 or more 50 gone up. Fans are cooking issues to place an order of $50 or more before next week's show, we'll get a free home sized package of any ingredient of your choice. That's pretty cool. Any ingredient Nice. Simply use the promo code ci 65 When placing your order online at modernist pantry.com and indicate in the comment box one ingredient you would like visit modernist pantry.com today for all of your modernist pantry cooking needs 50 bucks I guess in exchange they get to get any anyone that they want. Yeah, okay. All right, by the way and Stasha Have you ever heard of Wolfman Jack? Yeah, no good. I was gonna I was I was thinking on the way over like, you know, like radio people that use this new as a kid and whether you'd heard of them if you hadn't heard of them, I was gonna be incredibly depressed like your three year old and I'm 9 million years old. You know? Okay, I'm gonna go to question because otherwise I'm going to run out of time I was going to tell a story about about my cherry allergy and my hoping that by getting my tonsils out, I can fix it been have all my hopes were dashed, and I'm incredibly depressed about it. Anyway. Jason Molinari writes in to questions. Recently, some new studies have shown that many are most plastic leak leach estrogenic chemicals which have been shown to be harmful to fetal and young mammals. Messing with development is a is a particular concern to me, given that I have a 2.5 year old girl, I should probably said two and a half, two and a half year old girl and we often eat superheated food. I understand the research seems to be incomplete. But you may have access to other articles or studies, which I do not. Should I be freaking out? Or is this another item blown out of proportion? And then there's a link to the relevant study. And you'll have to you'll have to excuse me for one minute while I call up said relevant study. But the relevant study is

Oh, no, please don't we didn't close it. Okay, is estrogenic that's a good word to start with anything, right? If you're in writing, if you're writing anything, a book, magazine article, anything started with the word estrogenic. Most plastic products released estrogenic chemicals, a potential health problem that can be solved. And this is a fairly recent article, I think, from July of 2011. And, look, this article was new to me. I read it this morning, and I read some other articles on this subject. But the point is basically that there's a whole class of chemicals called endocrine disruptors, that mess with your hormones and can do things like cause early puberty in girls, or can have kind of delayed sexual development in boys midges messes you up all around, kind of. And so as a result of this, many people have stayed away from, for instance, baby bottles containing the ingredient. What's that? Continued ingredient, BPA, Bisphenol A. So so this is something that's been kind of bubbling under the surface, people have been worried about certain plastics, but the theory has been that the plastics that don't contain known endocrine disruptors are okay, so what this study did was, they took a whole boatload of different plastics. And, and basically they sent the researchers over the course of four years out to various supermarkets and food chains, purchased both empty and full plastic containers and then subjected them to a bunch of tests to try and see whether they can leach crap out of these things, including microwave heating, including soaking it in alcohol, including soaking it and salt. Things like that different various heating regimes, and unfortunately, and then what they would do is they take that whatever they did, you know, whatever the whatever the liquid was they used to leach, and they would apply it to see whether or not it bound to have an assay. They have an assay for endocrine, you know, for estrogen, estrogen estrogenic products, and they said, Is there a reaction on this assay that we can see that there are active components in here that could be endocrine disruptors, okay, bad news, I'll give you the bad news. The bad news is, according to this study, many things that you would think are safe, including baby bottles that are labeled BPA free, in fact, can leach crap out. And even a plastics that are free of plasticizers. For instance, polyethylene can have additives added to the plastics that make them release some form of, you know, like, estrogenic, Li active compound into foods under certain conditions. So that's the bad news. This is very new research. So I really don't know what to make of it. I looked up some of the other relevant articles on it. And, you know, there's, there's just not really enough now part of the problem is, is that the there's no kind of known known minimum level at which kind of where this stuff is okay. And, you know, and the research is still being done. The good news was, I couldn't look over the charts thoroughly and like really digest them, but it looks like things like plastic wrap had fairly low levels compared to other things, of having things leaching out of them. PETG bottles that were free of BPA tended to leach stuff, because the actual monomer itself is is it has some activity, some endocrine disruption activity, and if it's not fully if it degrades over time, that can that can leach out, apparently, according to the article. And so, I don't know, I just don't know. It's kind of it's an interesting subject, and I hope to look into it more. I was a little upset to find that things that I knew were free of these sorts of endocrine disruptors in terms of what the actual makeup the plastics were, when tested, had some activity in them that I don't know that this stuff's been retested, I got to look into it anyway, too. And on a lighter note, can you give me any ideas for some pan sauces that might go with low temperature fish, meat and poultry, so it's not cooked in a pan except for a super quick sear, there usually isn't any degradable phone in the pan. And let's face it, a low temperature fillet of cod can be pretty boring, even if flavorings are used in the bag. Okay, a couple things you do, one, take the bones or whatever else and make a stock if you're doing chicken or doing fish unit, well efficient, I'm going to brown it but you know, chicken, brown out the bones, make a stock, reduce it and make a sauce that way. In fish, typically what cooks are going to do is they're going to add something that's very high in umami to a finished sauce. That's why a lot of times when these fish came out, you'd see a lot of things with me soy sauces, with soy based sauces, sauces, the handle out of those brown notes and those kind of brown characteristics that you would want that you don't get in those high, high temperature things. But it's true that a plain low temperature fillet of cod can be pretty boring unless it's so low temperature that you haven't killed the worms and the worms are still moving around the inside of a cut this dosha Did you know that COD has all sorts of worms in it. Are you ever gonna eat cut again? You know, whenever students the first time they butcher cod at the school or wherever the first time you butcher cod, and you see the little worms coming out of you're like, oh my god, you know what, you've been eating cod your whole life. We cooked the worms out. Anyways, speaking of cryptic worms, that reminds me of bleach the rabies out which is Kent Kirschenbaum, our friend at NYU professor at NYU, his favorite thing that I ever said was bleach the rabies out when I'd have a new centrifuge. And he was just on Sid the Science Kid. That is if you had next time you have a little kid. Sid, the Science Kid is like you know, a show on the TV, the little kids watch. Anyway, cool. Cancel on Sid the Science Kid. Okay. I hope that was a good answer. Is that a good answer? Yeah. From Jason Molinari. Okay. We have a question in from Matt. Hey, they pronounce that hasa Pass, pass. Pass pass. Okay. Love the show. use iTunes to listen in regards to braising jus color. This is by the way, a response where we say Does anyone else have a good way to get the sauce color, remember? Yeah, so this is a response from Matt. He also has a response for good plating ideas, I think. Okay, and then a question. Okay. So, in regards to braising color, braising sauce color, I learned a technique from Paul bar Lada who learned it from Georgia or Wu Shan on refreshing sauces. That technique is good not only for color, but flavor as well. But for every service. Bring the sauce to a boil, and in a separate pot for red wine sauce reduce a half bottle of wine along with aromatics and roasted Shanks of meat scraps. or share of scraps of meat and learn with chunks of meat scraps. When the wine is very close to being reduced, crank both pots and slowly incorporate the base into the into the reduction. Do this two ounces at a time and when you're done the sauce will be very Ruby and have all the flavors reinforced the color will last for around five hours. We did this every service with all of our sauces. Good tip. Good tip on the topic of fancy presentation for the home cook and this is a really good tip by the way. I hadn't thought of it because we're stupid. That's why YouTube some baller chef demos to see how they played French chef.tv has some demos as well, as well as the Alinea slash next videos. That's a really good idea. So so stupid. Everyone on YouTube now has like famous people doing plating work. Why am I such an idiot? And why did you suggest that to me? were useless. Anyway. Thanks, Matt. Those two excellent, a good tip and a really good idea. Anyway. Finally, I have a question. Is there a specific formula for savory ice creams and sorbets? I have formulas for sweet versions where the solid sugars and liquids are balanced. Adapted from Sebastian Kanaan who's from the French pastry school our competitor in in what's it called Chicago? Also seen on Michael the SCOTUSblog ran into Michael Scott on Saturday at some bar by the way. Yeah, it was when he told his birthday what does it have the word day? He's like Oh, I saw Michael Scott's there his birthday you know going into the see what's going on he gonna say hello, and I'm gonna say Happy Birthday Nice. So I didn't say happy birthday to him and his wife Heather is the GM at Aldi at George Madison's restaurant. Anyways, now I feel like a jackass for not saying happy birthday, but I was commenting his lot you know it's pastry chef Armageddon right now. Johnny is eenie from John George is leaving JG and Michael SCOTUS is leaving LeBron Dan. And I was like, when's your last days? Like? He's like December 30. I'm like, What are you assessing? You can't go all the way to the 31st and finish all yours like LeBron dance closed on New Year's I was like, oh, anyway, good guy, Michael scars. Okay. All the sorbets nice cream using this formulation are great. The only thing I've changed is maybe adding nonfat milk protein aka dry milk to certain sorbets, although it's going to make them more milky, which is going to make them more like a like a sherbet, right anyway. Do most people substitute isomalt for sucrose or just make a yummy bass and hit it with liquid nitrogen? Okay, you can't just hit a base with liquid nitrogen and get a really good result you can get a sore because the sugar is there as a texturizing agent, right? You need that sugar there to get a proper texture. Otherwise, even with liquid nitrogen, it's going to be hard, it's not going to feel right in the mouth. I wouldn't substitute I mean ice, you can substitute isomalt Some people claim that it gives you the runs if you eat too much. But that's never happened to me. And I've eaten a bunch once justice. And the reason is you just don't digest it as much. That's why they say that I would move to isomalt I'm going to have to remember I'm making this up. It's something like 5030 to 50% as sweet as sucrose so it is substantially less sweet. But glucose syrup is even less sweet than then isomalt and I don't know whether it gives you the poops or not. I don't think it gives you the poops that glucose syrup. So I will go with glucose syrup, which is what you can use are very low D.

Corn corn based or syrup me everyone says corn syrup. You know, look, it's first of all if high fructose corn syrup is what's causing the entire world to fall apart. You know whether it is or whether it isn't not all corn syrup. So high fructose corn syrup. Let's just say that right now. Anyway, so a low D in other words, non sweet corn syrup would be the way I would go as opposed to using isomalt. Although I have used isomalt as well and it works you just need something that has the water binding properties otherwise it won't know anyway, and the texturizing properties of sugar otherwise the texture is not going to be right. Anyway. I'll try to find some recipes or if you if you're having problems working out a formulation just give us another holler and I'll call one of my buddies and figure out the exact numbers. Okay. Question in from Ellie, this is a you know we remember we had a problem pronouncing Yeah, she pronunciation guide now. Really like Eddie but with? Okay. I am now on my second immersion circulator unit from eBay in the last three years. I'm thinking I should have spent the money on a new one from Polly science instead. Yeah, you know what? I think I've said this a million times is that I used to I used to buy circulators constantly off of Ebay and then spent all my time keeping them running. And the first time I got something wrong, my face a new PolyScience I was like, wow, this is what it's like to not be a D bag anyway. What right right. No, mustache is tapping her watch me I have to hurry. Yes, you probably should have. Anyway the one that the one that's now the one I have now is a very nice looking digital louder with barely any cosmetic damage and it holds the temperature perfectly. For all intents and purposes. It looks barely used. I've had it for maybe two months now. And it used to work almost silently. Just humming along now seems to be developing a slight grating noise, nothing very noisy or terribly annoying, but I remember you mentioning that some emerging circulators develop that noise after long term use. The problem is I did not remember if you said it was something that can be fixed with some WD 40. Or as a problem that will get worse and worse until the machine is unusable in a month or two. Any help is much appreciated. Okay. First of all, I don't know which louder you have I used to buy loudest all the time, they looked awesome. And they look barely used and they all died, they all died on me. What died on them was the triack. And the ones that I'd use, most of them I had somewhere the motor went, where the inside of the track would burn out. So wouldn't heat anymore, it would still run, the kind of noise you're getting depends you have to make a decision. And the new louder is probably that doesn't happen to or newer. You have to figure out whether it's a bearing noise, which it sounds like, like it's a Behringer, it's hard to describe or whether it sounds like the shaft is rubbing on something. If the shaft is rubbing on something, try to bend the bottom a little bit so that the shaft no longer touches any metal parts. And that just stop it and then you're good to go for a long time. If it's the bearing making the noise, then you're kind of in a world of hurt. Eventually, I have kept them running for months and months and months by spraying with WD 40. But remember WD 48 foodgrade. So you don't want to do it too much. And it's very easy to test hit the bearing with a little WD 40. And if the squeaking and scraping goes away, then it's your bearing. If not, then the shaft is touching on something else it will check to take the color. Oh, we have a color color. You are on the air.

Hey, David. Anastasia. This is Sarah Beth's Dad. Hey, man.

Hey, how you doing? Nice. Good. Do we answer the question or no? Did work?

You did? You sure did. We ended up so we ended up putting the meat in a boiling water. So now we joke we're gonna go boil up some steaks for some friends. So yeah, yeah, so we got three different cuts of steak from the same pie. So it was pretty cool. Hopefully the marbling would stay consistent. And then we put it in a double boiler. That way that meat didn't hit the bottom of the pan, right and then got got a got a probe just one of the incident read thermometers that only registered at the tip and then we put that horizontally into the meat. And the numbers were almost dead on with with the four times. And we haven't we haven't attempted the the equations yet. But we downloaded the app and all that stuff. So we're playing around with that right now.

And your numbers, your numbers, jibe with the applications numbers roughly or

no, no with that with that roughly four times, you know, the answer was just about roughly, you know, equal to, you know, when you add in the answer to the inch and a half to the two inches, it was like a pretty straight, straight line with the times. Really? Yeah.

So it shouldn't be straight, though. It shouldn't be linear.

Yeah, well, that's what a that's what a graph data. That's why we're gonna we're gonna break out that app and play with that a little bit. And see, you know, because it's, you know, that's what it showed, but like you're saying it shouldn't be linear.

No. No, every, every doubling of thickness should be a factor of four.

Yeah, yeah. So that's why we're gonna break out the thing and see if you know, maybe something was wrong in our experiment or, or just run the math on it and double check it.

That's That's an expensive cut to boil. Huh?

Oh, you're telling me

if you're not going to eat it get like I have round or something like that, because got very low fat content and a lot cheaper, tastes bad when it's cooked long time because it goes livery and it doesn't have any fat. So it's not my favorite cut to eat. But if you're going to be boiling, it means how did taste after you boiled it?

Well, I could have used it for my shoes. It was pretty, pretty tough. Pretty tough, you know, but what I did just for grins I put it in a hot pan and I you know we seared it with some olive oil and garlic and all that try to dress it up a little bit. But

yeah, once you boil it down once you boil it suckers boil. One last question how? What was the like, okay, let's say thickness is the Z dimension. How large was the X and Y?

Oh, as far as the size of it? Yeah. They were fairly consistent. So the if we, we took the steak and we cut it in half, it was like two, two pieces for each size. And they were about four inches by four inches. Okay, so but it was it was circumference, but it was like a slab.

Right but a lot bigger. A lot bigger. X and Y and Z. Yeah. Okay. Yeah, yeah, yeah. So packs approximately a slab. Good, good. Exactly. Well, you know, I'm surprised it came out as a linear relationship. I'm gonna, you're gonna have to, like fill me and you have to do some tests with that app to see what it Rep tells you

that's what we're gonna do. And the other problem was, you know, we only had like, what two pieces for each thickness. So we didn't have a lot of data points to graph either.

Right? So yeah, may What may I recommend in the future? A cheaper cut? Yes.

Duly noted. Yeah, yeah. Yeah. But my daughter loves her podcast. We were we were listening to it on on the way to school this morning. Oh, wow. Yeah, yeah. And don't worry, I pre screen most for the cursing.

So we try not well, you know, we really try not to do it now. Especially because, you know, we now live as a family show, you know, surprisingly, in the real life. I'm the one you have to worry about, but on the air, and the stashes when you have to worry about isn't that strange?

And I'm not saying any. I'm not saying anything. Anybody. It's called the hammer. I'm, I'm just going to be quiet.

Alrighty, well, well, listen, thanks so much for calling. Do you have a separate question or No,

no, no, I was just calling to let you guys know that we heard it. And we, we did the thing. So we'll play around with that app and let you know what happened. Cool. Thanks

so much. Yeah. All right. All right. One question we had, that I'm going to actually I know I'm going to postpone to the next one from Howard is with the holiday season winding up, I was wondering, the reason is going to become apparent. I was wondering if you had any suggestions for kitchen gadget equipment, and gifts with the holiday season, if you could include some things from a variety of price ranges, that would be great. And I figured this would be a good thing for us to actually discuss on next week's show and to give anyone who's listening and opportunity to write in with what they think good idea would be. What do you think that's smart, man, I have my ideas what but you know, I can, you know, I could do do more. Another thing does that Quicken. Kevin writes and says hope all as well just want to drop a quick line let you know that carbonating vodka with a SodaStream system works quite well. And he's attached pictures. And I didn't get a chance to look at the pictures yet. But he's said I use the same tubing I use for an aquarium pump, I have connected to my Do It Yourself immersion circulator. And he recommends using SodaStream to vent out trapped air before pressurizing for the first time to get the pressure psi. This is a technique I've advocated for a while if you have a SodaStream of putting an extender tube on the end of it, so that you can actually carbonate with a smaller amount of liquor and actually have the tube sit below the level. Because if you don't do that, you're not going to get good carbonation. If you if you if you fill it up high enough, you're You're the problem is it's going to overflow when it foams can because vaca wants to form a little bit after it carbonate but I will say this also, Kevin, keep tuned. We're gonna have an I'll talk more about it. But I have some new carbonation stuff coming out. That's going to it's gonna blow everyone's mind. Right. Yeah. gonna blow everyone's mind. How much time do I have left? What? Alright, so listen, I have some questions in for instance. I have another question in from Ellie about alginate I'm gonna get to that one next time. Colin wrote in with some typical Colin kind of stuff. And we'll get to that next time and caning Baroda and actually after we got to speak to us, and by the way, I was given Jack. He's the one that says that he no longer Fast Forwards because he enjoys your choice of segway music so much. It was an awesome email. Thanks, man. Yeah, so Jack says thank you, and I'm gonna get more to what you wrote about other than that next week because today we're out of time and this has been cooking issues.