Cooking Issues Transcript

Episode 53: Meat Glue & The Modernist Pantry


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Hello, and welcome to cooking issues is Dave are on your host of cooking issues back from Colombia, Panama and the Harvard where I was lecturing last year we're back in Bushwick today with Natasha hammer Lopez calling all of your questions too. 718497212718497212 H still can't remember the dang number anyway, today last week was our 52nd Episode I was we were supposed to celebrate it but because the fake hurricane stopped us from being together in the studio. We're celebrating our 53rd episode with a delicious bottle of wine from our friends at the barter house. So when we haven't here drew a coat to pronounce so anywho we're going to have that which we shouldn't be drinking because we're going to be shooting an episode of no reservations. What's it called No Reservations acquire with no reservations, I think with Anthony Bourdain later on today, maybe we'll talk about it maybe we won't I don't know. Today's cooking issues is sponsored by modernist pantry supplying modernist ingredients for the home cook modernist pantry offers modern ingredients and packages that makes sense for the home cook and most only cost around five bucks per unit unit. Yeah five kit per pet per thingamajig. Yeah. And you know what, this is one of the main problems when you're buying but after I finish the thing okay. Whether you're looking for hydrocolloid pH modifiers, or even meat glue, eat glue eat glue you should get me glue by the way shall have me glue in your pantry. You'll find it at modernist pantry oh by the way when you buy me glue from these guys, you should remember to always store it in the freezer after you're done with it or it's gonna go bad fairly quickly. Remember that stored in the freezer tightly sealed in a ziploc in the freezer. Okay, and if you need something that they don't carry at modernist pantry, just ask Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to source it for you with worldwide shipping Hey guys, source okay if you're going to source anything source pectin X SPL, I'm talking specifically to Chris Anderson in Madison Patrick modern pantry you're gonna have to order a 25 litre pail because we're sick of selling it to people because we're not what we're very good at. Although the school is still selling that stuff. I tried to get tears bass to carry it and they weren't able to so maybe you guys can carry that which is a fantastic enzyme that you can use for clarification auto suppressing, getting the pith off of peels, making delicious french fries, etc, etc. By anyway, Chris Anderson is here. Be happy to sourcing for you with worldwide shipping modernist pantry is your one stop shop for innovative cooking ingredients fans of cooking issues that order today during today's show go on there right now because I want to prove that we actually have some fans will get a free sample of transglutaminase aka meat glue with their first order, but only while supplies last. Simply use the promo code CI which I guess stands for cooking issues 53 ci 53 When placing your order online at modernist pantry.com Please do so. So that so that proves that we're you know, useful in some way. Right? Okay. Visit monitors pantry.com today for all of your monitors ingredient needs. And it is true that one of the hardest things that people have when they're sourcing these ingredients is purchasing them. And then if they want to purchase 567 hydrocarbons, even from the suppliers that we use for restaurant supply, they're usually buying more than you need a lot more than you need because you're typically only using a few grams of these things. And you're paying 1516 $17 per unit of the for these things, and you don't need that much of it. So it's a real barrier to experimentation. So this is a really good concept where you go you can order smaller quantities of these things that are going to be useful to you. And then you can play around with them. They also I think they said it they'll get bulk if you need bulk and I'm sure their pricing is different for for both. So go on. Check them out. Cheers, modernist pantry, Miss dosha folk pulling the Cesare Casella and throwing some some ice cubes in her line. What are we drinking today? Anastas you're gonna give us little spiel Jules Cote de Provence great pronunciation really no. By the border house, no barter house are good buddies. Okay, on to a by the way, remember to call in your questions. We're very excited for your questions today. Although we do have a lot of email questions to answer if I can only find them. I gotta put them on my iPad. Okay. Hmm. Kevin writes in Hi, David moustache. I've been working on a blog post listing ingredients commonly seen in scientific cooking, and I'm stuck on sodium hexametaphosphate s h MP, known in the parlance as shimp. I know you've talked about its role as a calcium question, for certification before, by the way, calcium sequestered means that basically that it has the ability to bind calcium molecules. And calcium is one of the things that causes certain gels to set. So if you're making something with alginate, for instance, and you want to stop it from prematurely setting, we add a little bit of sodium hexametaphosphate to bind up all the calcium that's available that would otherwise shaft your shaft, your your your gel, and so that's, you know, that's what a question is anyway. But I've also seen many claims that can be used as an acidity regulator and emulsifier a humectant, a raising agent. So question we already said stabilizer and thickener, I think I figured out how acidity regulation and emulsification work. But the rest are a mystery to me. My question is in two parts, could you shed any more light on novel uses for shimp? Sodium hexametaphosphate? And to can you recommend any books cites journals or other resources for doing research on scientific cooking? I have access to academic journals, but I sometimes still can't find the basic details of certain things. Well, I'll answer the second one first. The problem with scientific journals is unless you know exactly what you're looking for, it can be very difficult to search for kind of general industrial knowledge on on those journals. So for instance, if you're saying, hey, look, I want to look up the production or I want to look up, you know how to do EKG may have a spinal cord ablation if you know exactly what you're searching for, you can find the information. But otherwise, it's very difficult. I usually look for industrial sites, like corporations usually put out lots of white papers on how their products are work. For instance, if you want to know about metal sell, the best place to go is dow for methylcellulose. You know the for alginates It used to be ISP, which is which is a company now owned by FMC biopolymer. So for these industrial applications, where it's not a trade secret where they're trying to get you to use the product, a lot of the information is available online, or if you call the company they'll send it to you. This is the case with enzymes and hydrocarbons primarily. If you want to know how a weird industrial cooking procedure works, patent searches are often a good way to go. Or there are specific if you have access to scientific journals, you might also have access to food processing books, which are usually on different website within the same kind of an area. Like for instance, Ken Novell has a long list of books on actual food processing, for instance, the book frying improving quality, where I learned a lot about oil degradation, things like that. Another good source is Egan press, which is put out by the American Association of serial chemist good places to look for this for this sort of thing when it comes specifically to sodium hexametaphosphate. The problem with that is that it's usually an insert, not very specific. It's not one thing, there's usually an impure bunch of poly phosphate salts, some of which are sodium hexametaphosphate and some which aren't, there's also the phosphate salts like they react very, very differently depending on which one they are two really good resources on the internet to look up. One is the polyphosphates chemistry effect and importance which you can get as a Word document online, it's easy to search for, and it has a very good discussion of kind of the chemistry of what's going on in you know, fairly laypersons terms, thank goodness. And another one is search for ICl underscore meet dot pdf, which specifically is how to use different kinds of polyphosphates in meet now.

This like shorter chain of phosphate salts are typically basic, whereas the longer ones, and cyclical ones like sodium hexametaphosphate are typically not basic. So for instance, more basic polyphosphates are added to things like meat glue, a specific kind of meat glue to make it basic so that the enzymes don't react when they're when they're being when they're sitting there on your desk before you paint them on Meet larger ones there, they act as a question. And the way they act as an emulsifier is by basically solubilizing the proteins, it's the proteins that are acting as an emulsifier. When you're adding something like sodium hexametaphosphate to Now you wouldn't have sodium hexametaphosphate to meet for that you had a shorter chain polyphosphate but anywho that's what it's basically doing the protein itself as the emulsifier. And the polyphosphates are basically making that protein more available. They can act as buffers in different kinds of regimes, depending on which one you use. They're very, very versatile, but the actual usage of them are very specific almost the way they are with hydrocolloid, you have to know exactly why you're using it, which one you're using. So I recommend you look at those two sources, and you'll get a much better handle for what's going on. What do you think says yes, yes. Okay. We got a call Colin from Michael. Michael wants to know about potatoes and meat glue, two separate questions. I will do the second question. First. I'd like to know if I can use transglutaminase to glue my drunk and passed out friend's hand to his face. If I wet his hand and apply it to his face. And he didn't move until morning, would it bond? Also, if it did work successfully? Would I be putting him in any serious medical danger by doing this? What if I just glue his hand to his torso? Okay, I'm not going to, I'm not going to go ahead and recommend that you glue the hand to the face. But let's take it from a theoretical standpoint. One of the problems with gluing your hand to your face is that the like your epidermis is pretty much kind of a dead kind of a protein. So I don't know how much is going to be available for gluing. That said, you know, I can easily glue chicken skin. I know that works, you know. So it probably would work to an extent, I think you'd get a much much, much, much, much better bond. If you sanded his hand first to make it kind of rough. like kind of like you'd like if you skinned your knee, that kind of thing. Like if you fell off of a bike and you hit your hand on gravel, that kind of thing, and then did a similar thing to his forehead, I think you'd get a much better bond. Not recommending this, please don't do this. You'd also need to keep it very immobile. It wouldn't actually take four hours because remember, the human body temperature is around 98 degrees. So it probably the enzyme would set fairly quickly. I'm guessing fairly quickly. Now, the strength of the glue with the trans contaminates is it's not on the order of making a whole muscle again. So if you use transglutaminase, you know that it's much more like two pieces of muscle. They're separated by a membrane or the junction between two different muscles. So that's the kind of level of bonding you're going to get. So you could pull it apart, but this would cause probably nasty disfiguration and scarring. So I'm going to go ahead and not recommend it. But if you didn't want to you can go to modernist pantry.com Yes, but if you want a sample of meat glue to not test on your friend, I recommend that you go to the monitors pantry and enter the code of CI What was it 53 ci 53. Purchase a meat glue and go ahead and do not try this on your friend. And this is not like many times I'll like nod nod wink wink don't try please don't actually try this right. I mean, like moustache look on my face. I'm serious this time. Don't try it. I'll tell you I can't tell you what. I'm not serious. But I'm serious this time. Don't try this. Now. We're going to try the delicious but we

need a Dave serious sound effect. Yeah, but yeah, what could it be?

Maybe the wheeling scream? Yeah, right. For those of you that don't know, there's a scream called like the William scream that is in every movie and Spielberg's use it like 8 billion times. So every time I hear it, I'm like awesome. So it's used I guess one of the more famous usages is an Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom when they're walking across the bridge and the Indiana Jones cuts the bridge and a guy falls down into the where the alligators or crocodiles are eating people alive that's that's a use of the screen but it's it once you know the screen that particular scream, maybe Jack and find it before the end of the episode and you can you can hear it. Yeah, I'll just fill my pipe. I like the DOD has the original use. Right now you guys know it. You guys know it now that scream. It's in every movie. That's great. That's great. Yeah, okay. Yes, it's in every screen. Yeah, every screen once you hear that it's not like it's not that's not the natural human scream. It's just the Wilhelm scream that's being used in every movie. Weird, and the wine is delicious. Okay. So second question on potatoes. By the way, Michael is a recent SCI grad good. And he's a developing check is playing the Wilhelm scream. No, I just Oh, you did? Come on. We're off the way. All right. She This is what Natasha does during the show instead of paying attention what we're doing and try to help me get ingredients. She's like Runwell research the screen. She's great with sponsors, though. Yeah, yeah. Yeah, yeah. Sponsors like sponsors, like anyone other than me, anyway. Okay, when my school instructor chef instructor, so one of ours of the FCI told me that we shouldn't use potatoes that are sprouting because once they sprout, they release poison into the potato, I'd like to know what's going on there with the potatoes be fine. If I cut off the sprouts and a large portion of the potato from where the sprout came in, are there any ways I can cook the tainted potatoes to make them safer on the family chef at the executive dining room where I work and so I get quite a few sprouting potatoes to work with. Okay, here's the daily potatoes, when they're exposed to light or, or otherwise, after a certain length of time, we go out of dormancy, when they go out of dormancy, they start to sprout, they also start to turn green. And that's a sign of when that this chemical called solanine is developing. So solanine is a very, very bitter and also poisonous chemical there are actually have been some deaths attributed to solanine ingestion from potatoes, typically during famine times. The good news about solanine is it's extremely bitter. So if your potatoes tastes bitter, don't eat them, right. Also, the greening when you see potatoes that are stored improperly in supermarkets, I see it all the time the skin's turning green, the green is not actually the Solonian forming. It's chlorophyll that's forming into potato. But chlorophyll and solanine develop at roughly the same time. So greening and a potato is indication that there's also a high selenium content in the potato sprouts have a large large potato sprouts, which you should never eat, have a large amount of Solonian in them. So in a potato, that's otherwise, okay, that doesn't show it like a lot of greening, you can cut out the sprout areas because here's the order sprouts have the most solanine the skin area that's turned green has the second most solanine. And the inside of the potato has the least amount of Sony that said, the worse off a potato gets in terms of once it's gone out of dormancy or started to sprout, the more Sony is going to be found throughout. So you want to peel the heck out of a potato that has that in it and you want to cut out a lot of the sprouty areas right. Now, the question is can you get rid of it by cooking you're not going to get rid of it by boiling or by steaming. If you deep fry potatoes, you can extract some of it because I believe it's oil soluble. The problem is it doesn't go away it just gets extracted into the oil so what you're doing is spreading the poison out over time. So the more you use the oil the more you're spreading the poison out. Also, again every potato foliage so here's his I was I was researching this. This is from the article Solonian glyco alkaloids in potatoes in a magazine Food and Chemical Toxicology 1990 The highest total content of solanine and the potato planter and the foliage the blossoms and the sprouts followed by the peel and the tuber flesh within the to where the concentrations are greatest in the layer under the peel and in the eyes. Another interesting fact about solanine is that it's very small amounts of it are considered necessary to the taste of it so without it the potato wouldn't taste like a potato but a large amounts of it not only will kill you but will add a distinctly bitter taste followed by a longer lasting burning sensation in the fruit break. Oh all right. So there it is with your potatoes and we're gonna go to our first commercial break cooking assurance morning slaving fall break so that every month can be fed me get up in the morning faving my darling just chosen this sample speak Hello

and Welcome back to Cooking issues calling on your questions. 27184972128. That's 718-497-2128 And no I didn't memorize it Natasha wrote down the number during the break. Listen, the Israelites great tune. I'm not used to that version. I've never heard that version before. But I like it. It's more rockin. I'm used to the what does it does was that Desmond, Desmond Dekker? Yeah, I'm used to it, but the stock should pick that because if I have time about it later on today, we'll talk about it. We're doing a shoot today for the board, anything I mentioned, but the subject of the shoot is they wanted us to do a Christmas feast. And I was an ancient Christmas feast. So it's not a technical technological problem. It's more of my history interest problem. And I was like, Well, you know, Christmas wasn't a big fish until kind of recently, you know, it's kind of like a Victorian era thing when we started having these giant Christmas feasts, you know, usually not really very religious holiday. Easter is the more important one you don't say in your jersey Bible. Oh, yeah. Well, I want to I want to do a spoken, I want to do a spoken word Bible completely in Jersey. Anyway. It's one of my later life goals after I retire from anything else from everything else that I've done. Okay? So, like, that's ever gonna happen. Okay, so. So I said, Listen, a much more interesting problem is what might they have been eating, eating around Jesus's actual birthday? Right, that was the thing. And so I've been researching recently, the food that the Israelites would be eating, basically, throughout the history of Palestine, but more specifically trying to figure out what would be going on in the Roman period, right around the time the birth of Christ. And so if I have time, we'll talk about some of that stuff. Later on in the program. Okay. Now, lat I think it was last week. By the way, I will tell you some stories about Panama real quick. Panama. Since I haven't spoken you guys since I've been from Panama or the Harvard where I was teaching late last week. Panama is interesting. But as far as a food person, I'll tell you two quick, quick things about Panama. One if you go to the fruit market at Panama, like bring some sort of moist to tell it because it's not super clean. I'm not saying anything negative about it, right. I know, you know, but check this out. I purchased a sack a sack of 100 fresh mango Steens. Right, fresh mangosteens for $17. Right now that is an absurdly low price and setup on the roof a bunch of a setup on the roof, including by the way, someone who should be an expert in mangosteens Andy Ricker famous chef in Portland area who does amazing work with Thai food. It's the first time I met him actually in Panama, great guy. We were hanging out. And amazing, amazing. So he said they were very good. I mean, they were the best that I've ever had. And he said they were good too. And he's had them a lot in Southeast Asia so he should know what's up. 100 mangosteen 17 bucks I later heard on from a local that I got ripped off that he can get him for $15 A sack. So you know, I got ripped off by two bucks. Here's another one for you. I saw a pickup truck a pickup truck full of RAM buttons and they were basically free. The red buttons were basically free and ran but what's a Rambo tan? It's kind of like a lychee but it's kind of furry and red. Do you don't talking about furry looking in red? They call them meme on chino. Not like Chinese meme on instead of meme and Chico which is basically their word for Spanish lime or good nips anyway, which are also delicious and lychee. Like, okay, so those are two Oh, here's the other story from Panama. Panama comes from a word that means many fish and they got fish all up and down the block because they're they're bordered by two oceans that are only an hour apart. Here's the sad part for you. This is where Panama really needs to break out the shine. Their mechanism for selling fish at the fish market I visited the Panama City fish market is kind of abysmal. Like the lobsters the spiny lobsters, which are flown in from the Caribbean, or trucked in from the Caribbean, only an hour away from the market are already all dead. All of the local crabs they call king crabs, but they're different from our king crabs, which look great. Everyone says they're delicious, all dead, like the fish is kind of being stored in horrible conditions. So like they have an amazing natural resource there. But the way it gets to market it gets kind of shafted. So I mean, one thing I'd like to see in Panama is for them to force the chef's to basically say, hey, look, let's spend a couple of extra bucks and pay Fisher fishermen an extra couple of bucks to try and get the fish in top quality to the market. It'd be better for the people that are fishing it'd be better for the chef's and would definitely do a lot to help high end food which I think they're working a lot on food on food there now I think it's becoming more popular. Anyway, enough on Panama for now, Jason had an eight question which I answered part of it and then I said we're going to research milk So you had a question about different kinds of eggs. And I didn't have the chance because I had only one hour of internet time for like $1,000 When I was in Colombia to look stuff up about the different kinds of eggs and whether they're whether they're different. And in my research this morning, I found a horrifying but kind of like couldn't look away article which has nothing to do with eggs. It's called interspecific, which I think they mean interspecies interspecific duck chicken shamira avian hits from avian biological research in 2011. These guys took quails, ducks and chickens and made like, shit, like quacks like quail chickens, quail ducks, like Chuck chick shots, like mixtures, where they took, they took the they injected duck, like duck DNA into like a quail egg or quail, and they have pictures of these kind of insane commerical like bird creations. So if you want to see some crazy freakin birds, go look up that article that anyway. But I looked up and there is in fact a big difference. It took me a while to find it. But there is a difference in the proteins that are available in different eggs. No one I think has done the study of how it affects cooking yet because I wasn't able to find that. But the kind of Holy Grail of articles on this subject is from 2005. Martin McGill has the article called comparative study of egg whey proteins from different species by chromatographic, and electro phoretic methods. And they tested hen quail, duck pheasant and ostrich and they showed that they all have the protein content in the ranges from 71 to 82%. Ostrich having actually the lowest Protein Concentration, which is lower than 71%. And the highest is in quail and duck. But then they go on to talk about the various differences but they don't really say how it affects cooking so I can't really go into it there. But if you want to look at the specific protein differences between them, look up that study the comparative study of eight whey proteins for different species by chromatographic and electro phoretic methods. Yeah, can nuke done alright. Okay. Colin writes in Collin longtime listener and writer in of things. I just snagged the rotor stator homogenizer off of ebay for a song. Yes. And after bleaching out the prions, which, by the way, prions, so rotor stator homogenizer. And we talked about this on the show feel like you did a little bit anyway, basically what it is, is, imagine a blender when you're when you're blending something right, the blades hitting the hitting the product, or what breaks apart your your partner food. So how small a particle that you can make is basically dependent on how fast the blade hits a particle or the relative speed between a particle and the blade hitting it right. So obviously faster blenders with faster tip speeds make for smaller particles. But this stuff moves around in a blender, right. So you're not getting because the particles are moving. And because they can move out of the way of the blades, you're limited in kind of how much energy you can smash into it and how small particle you can make in a rotor stator homogenizer, right, it's the equivalent of putting the particle up against a wall. And then because it's got a stationary part and then the other the other part, that's the so the stator is standing still the rotor is spinning, BAM goes right next to it under such a small clearance that it just obliterates the particles. So if you're going to turn it into a fighting analogy, is the difference between punching someone in the face and putting their head on the curb and stomping on it in terms of the amount of what I'm trying to give someone an analogy that they can like quickly understand in terms of force involved. And so that's the kind of force difference that we're talking about in a write in a rotor stator homogenizer versus a standard blender now Oh, I didn't finish his question. Okay, so he bought one of these suckers and he said to work creating an aoli with a stiff whipping texture of egg white of egg emulsified I always but using only God garlic, olive oil and salt. It's always proved impossible with a blender mortar and pestle it just turns to soupy goo, which he doesn't enjoy Alex up goose sometimes you like a Scooby Doo. Yeah, and especially like Scooby Doo unlike biscuits, which as someone commented on, but okay. Okay, it was a follow up with the biscuits. Oh, Anastasia in fact, did not like the biscuits. Even here. I had two different style of biscuits here right or no, they made one style from me here. And they were quite good. They were a good biscuit. Their interim I would call I would call Roberta's biscuits. Intermediate flaky right? We'd call it with that. Yeah. Intermediate flaky. Roberta's by the way. We talked about their review on The New York Times. No, Roberta's got a stellar two star review that basically said the food deserves three stars but it's kind of like a homey atmosphere because all the hipsters so they got like a two star review. That pretty accurate track.

They said the tasting menu deserve three stars. The regular menu was two stars and the pizza and beer was one so that's six by my count.

Yeah, by the way, one star by it doesn't mean that the pizza is bad. It just means it's like kind of it's beautiful. Pizza is delicious pizza. It's good pizza. That's not trying to downgrade the pizza. Anyway, very good review and I don't think we said it but congratulate we're going to check our glasses here. Congrats. Congratulations to Roberta's and the whole team here. I've been talking so much I can't drink. I can only drink during the break. There I just drink on Are you happy? Okay. Oh Bourdain is gonna love us. Okay. He made me forget what the heck I was talking about. I was reading Collins question. Okay, so he bought this rotor stator homogenizer. And he's making some aioli with it. The problem was because I had to find his his thing here on my iPad. The problem with it was it turned green. And I believe we've talked about garlic, turning green, green before Harold McGee wrote an article on it. And basically what happens is, is that if you slice garlic, it's very rarely going to turn green or whole garlic will very rarely turn green unless it's cooked under very low temperatures or pickled in very specific things. But when you puree it, as an rotor stator homogenized is going to puree the heck out of it. Right? There's an enzymatic process that goes on, whereby you create these colorless precursors, that then over time, or under certain cooking regimes or in certain pH regimes, it's acidic. Go green. And is there anything he wants to know what caused it to go green? I just said so. And, you know, and there's an article I forgot to write it down. But if you go on the on the on the internet, you can look up the the article on it, most of the research came out in the early 2000s. On what was going on. And it's it's basically a three, a two or three step process of enzymes, and then those things into converting later. The question is, is there a way to prevent this color change other than by cooking, you know, because he wants to maintain like the flavor, he wants to retain? Colin wants to retain the flavor of a fresh, uncooked garlic, but he wants it to not turn green? Yeah, I don't think it's gonna happen. Here's what I suggest. Especially because with a rotor stator, you're making such fine particle size, that you're really just getting all of that stuff together. So if if ever there was a way to make something turn green, like that's the that's the way to do it. I don't think there's a way to do it to change it. Maybe if you put it may be extremely basic, because they've acidic conditions help it maybe basic conditions stop it. But again, I'm just talking right out of my nether regions here. I have no idea. I have no idea. I would, I would do this, I would say add another flavor. Let's say a green herb blanch the green herbs is not going to turn brown. And then like if it has some parsley in it then supposed to be green and no one's going to balk. Right? Right. Right. Right. Right. Okay.

I'll try and think more about that. And I'll talk to McGee because McGee who wrote the article on it in the New York Times is, you know, he, he knows a lot about that he's probably thought about it more than I have. The other question Khan had was, what is it in garlic that acts as an emulsifier. I did a quick search on this and wasn't able to find anything that specifically acts as an emulsifier. However, garlics do have a category of compounds in them called opponents. And proponents are a plant based materials that have all kinds of different effects, but one of them is that they're surfactants. And they can act as a multiple multipliers. They're they're basically they have both a hydrophobic and hydrophilic component on them. So they can emulsify things. So this is a straight up, guess oh, here's, here's a, here's crap a PDS definition. Suppose glycosides widely distributed in the plant kingdom include a diverse group of compounds characterized by their structure containing a steroidal or triterpenoid, a glycol and one or more sugar chains. Thank you with a PDF. Anyway, they're in garlic, and they can cause foaming and emulsification. So I'm gonna go ahead and make the straight up. Guess that that is? What's causing it. Colin also wants to know, is there any other good uses for the rotor? stator homogenizer because Nathan Myhrvold says it's one of his favorite things that he has in the kitchen. Okay. All right. Here's some things and he calls out our our oyster feeding thing that I did back on the blog years and years ago, the oyster feeding thing is oysters die. If they their gills clogged up and they die, if you try to feed them particle size is much larger than about 10 microns right in size. And a vital prep blender can only really get down to about 20 microns or a little greater than 20 microns in size. And so if you just use a blender, you're going to choke out the oysters if you're making something like like a juice or something. So I basically put put all the juice through a rotor stator homogenizer to get the particle size small enough so I wouldn't choke out the oysters, right? Another use is that the finer you emulsify something, the wider it's going to get and also the more stable it's going to be. So you can use a rotor stator homogenizer to make a category of things that I guess Myhrvold and make sense because it you know made these things before two called milks where you take a small amount of fat and you'll multiply it into a liquid in kind of the ratios that you would have in milk so roughly like 4% fat, let's say into into a broth but you can do something like like ducks, duck and duck fat to make duck milk, right? That's another application for the rotor stator homogenizer. Anytime you have something that's going to settle out over time, you're going to be able to make a more stable motion using a rotor stator moderniser that said, you can stabilize stuff with emulsifiers that we use every day like the Arabic Santa and make sure that we use for everything you can stabilize pretty dang well without without using hardly anything better than a stick blender, you know, an immersion blender, but the flavor is going to change somewhat based on the ultimate particle size. And I believe we talked about this when Myhrvold was on the show couple weeks ago, right? So a little bit because Myhrvold does does like that. I have not done too much cool, but is what I busted out for recently. I had to bust it out. What the heck are we doing? My Oh. So Tony kind of era one of our good friends. The proprietor of 69 called regrow our favorite bar in London uses the rotor stator homogenizer to homogenize lime juice, and says that it improves the flavor because he's keeping the particles in there also improves supposedly its emulsifying ability, right? Because you keeping all the particles and all the stuff in there instead of straightening it out. Also increases his yield because he's not getting rid of that stuff that he strained out. Natasha and I did some triangle tests at the pegu club. I haven't written it up on the blog yet we weren't a triangle test is when we make three things, two of which are the same and one of which are different. And we do the old Sesame Street one of these kids is doing his own thing. And you try to figure out which one is different to triangle test. I haven't written about it even though we did it months ago, just a jerk. I just haven't had time to write it up yet. But we weren't able and triangle test to distinguish them. Although I'm a little bit dubious of the straight triangle test because I didn't tell people what they were looking for, like what kind of different flavors and nuances they might be looking for. But it might make a difference in the lime juice itself. But it's hard to tell in the drink whether that helps but you can experiment with doing rotor stator on juices to put the pump in and make them a little bit a little bit different. So give that a try. Okay. Michael napkin writes in from herba voracious, which is his blog, and he says Hey Natasha, because he doesn't like me. So he doesn't ask me he just wants to talk to you. Hey, Natasha, I've been working on how to make the most of mommy pack vegetable broth possible using a lot of ideas from both cooking issues and Modernist Cuisine. Would you would you pass this link on to Dave? I'd love to hear any comments or suggestions he has either by email or on the air. We'll hear you on the air. Okay. So he writes in his blog, I looked up some stuff that was mentioned some of them so he quotes this thing and I've heard it before if Heston Blumenthal is saying that there's some research that star anise when cooked with sulfur compounds, President onions and other alliums released a host of new flavor chemicals that enhance umami flavors. I've heard this a couple of times, Michael, I have not seen the research. I would love for someone to send me in the research because I wasn't able to find it. And I don't know about it, although I have heard it so please, please send that in. So Michael further writes, because he wants me to comment on his recipe here. That vegetarian ingredients is Michael writing, best known for high concentration of glutamates or tomatoes, dried should talking mushrooms, more meat kombu seaweed and parmesan cheese. He included the first four but omitted the parmesan because he wants to keep it vegan. You know, because you know that way it's more all purpose. You know what I mean? We're all purpose vegan. The challenge was to find a balance for these ingredients that wouldn't allow anyone to dominate. I didn't want to taste and say Wow, nice mushroom broth, or dashi. Now this is a huge problem actually. Because anytime you boost glutamate levels to a very high level, or glutamate imp level, so high level, you get a dashi like flavor. So Natasha and I were tasting the foods of a major food manufacturer who was trying to decrease the amount of sodium that they were using in their products. And way that they increased the palatability of these things, but at the same time decreasing the sodium was to add potassium monophosphate that's sorry, potassium, a glutamate to it, right? And instead of instead of sodium, MSG, monosodium glutamate, you add amount of potassium glutamate and you aren't adding the sodium but you're adding the glutamate, which is the thing that's increasing umami, right? So you can make stuff that people think is okay even though it has less salt in it. I have two problems with this one salt there's no problem with it unless you're a very specific person that is hypertensive as a result of salt, you can have salt are great grandpappy is and grande mammies ate so much salt, it would put us to shame because they had to preserve so many more foods than we had to because they didn't have refrigeration. Right. I have done detailed reading of as much salt literature as possible on the on the supposin deleterious effects of salt on our health. And as far as I can tell, by my Careful, careful, careful reading of it, they are bunk, right? They are crap. So I and I've had discussions with this with many scientists, and I have yet to find someone who has been able and I'm not saying I'm not a scientist, I'm just reading the stuff that's there. And by through careful reading of it, you can see that most of this inflammation is complete bunk. But hey, call me and call me out on it tell me I'm a jerk, but I'm pretty sure that I stand. Okay, as far as the literature is concerned, I'm not saying was true or false. I'm saying what the literature, what the literature is, and most of its crap. Okay? So don't reduce the salt. But the other problem is that when they do that when they reduced the sodium and increase basically the umami by jacking up, glutamate levels, everything tastes like dashi. So you have a Fettuccine Alfredo that tastes like, dashi. Now it's not necessarily bad. I mean, I love dashi right. But, you know, I wouldn't you know, I don't want my Fettuccine Alfredo tastes like dashi Do you know. And the other problem with this kind of technology, this technique of reducing salt and increasing glutamate levels and things is that everything just tastes the freakin same. It all tastes a frickin same, like some sort of weird Dashi, it's just a huge, I hope, I sincerely hope that people get off this kick of trying to reduce salt across the board and just focus on how things taste. The reason they don't, is because there's a bunch of Wingdings out there who not only think that people add salt to processed foods to somehow make them I don't know more addictive or to preserve them and people add salt to processed foods because salt makes the stuff taste better. You know what I mean? And what happens when you when someone doesn't add enough salt to food and you eat it? You don't frickin salt on it anyway, you know what I mean? I'm not gonna get into like the thing is cooking issues position insofar as cooking is his position is Dave Arnold's position which I guess it is your salt to make the stuff tastes good. There are situations where we solve for safety like when preserving meats or or other reasons, but you know, when you're trying to get a bind in a sausage salt is adding a functional thing or a salt in bread is not only taste it's also but you saw to make stuff taste good. So if you don't like the taste of salt, go ahead and don't solve it. But if you liked the taste, which means that you're almost all of us, salt in normal in normal amount, okay.

So yes, you Michael, you do not want to make a broth that tastes like dashi unless you're shooting for a dashi. Okay, so his method is using a pressure cooker, because a lot of us advocate pressure cook stocks. So he put he takes a pressure cooker. And he cooks the stuff, including the onions, and the kombu, and all of the other ingredients. Now I'm going to say this, here's my here's my critique of the recipe. Insofar as it stands, because he's pressure cooking everything one, the flavor of onions is going to be increased in sweetness, but decreased in onion flavor by pressure cooking. So if you really want to onion up the thing and have more of a traditional onion taste, I would saute some onions. While you're pressure cooking, I would pressure cook the onions as well, because that's delicious. But I would saute some of the onions and I would put them into the I would put them into the broth. After you pressure cook it for a couple of minutes to let some of the fresher onion flavor marry just to increase or radically increase the amount of onion that you add to your broth so that it has more of a more of a direct onion profile. The second thing is, I'd be a little cautious and pressure cooking the combo. If you liked the flavor of the combo pressure cooked. Go ahead, I haven't done a lot of research on pressure cooking combo, but kombu in general, they tend not to like it boiled. So I would do a pre steep of the kombu. In kind of, I would do 6060 to 70 degrees Celsius water and then remove the kombu. Before going on to the pressure cook step. I haven't done a lot of experiments on pressure cooking combo, but in general, that's been my experience at the higher cook. kombu is the less I like the flavor of it. Although I haven't done it in conjunction with all of those other ingredients. So I don't know I don't know exactly how it works. But anyway, those are my basic critiques on the stock. All right. So Natasha is telling me that we're running out of time but I have one more question that I will get to but I unfortunately going to have to do it very quickly Curtis writes in on ramen I've recently been on the hunt Good afternoon Dave. I've been on the hunt for recipes and tips for making Japanese ramen from scratch both noodles and broth. I'm having trouble finding English language resources for both the noodle and the broth but the noodles are a bigger problem. There isn't much out there showing how the noodles are made I've heard you can hand pull ramen noodles or you can send through a pasta machine or even slice them with a night knife. You have also the dough is very dry and difficult to come together. How could you hand pull the dough of this consistency? I also know the noodles require a product called can sway or a mixture of potassium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate mixture is there any way to make this can sway as it's difficult to find okay, you can get canceled or potassium carbonate bicarbonate at most Asian grocery stores if they're larger stocked, right because they have this stuff. It's basically just a base if you don't have that you can use baking soda or you can bake out baking soda in the oven and make sodium carbonate which McGee talks about and the bass in it with does two things. One, it makes the noodles yellow. So you search for yellow Alkalyn noodles, why a n on the web and it'll give you a lot of information resources. As on can sway and how it's used. Other than just turning the noodles yellow it also makes a gluten stronger because in basic conditions gluten is stronger and in acidic conditions gluten is weaker. This is why sourdough breads are slack. Right and and the yellow Alkalyn noodles are very toothy and have a lot of bite because you're shifting the pH. So there's two main functions it increases the bite of the noodle by increasing the pH and it also turns them yellow. By the way, it affects wheat protein, certain weeds turn more yellow than others. So those are the two main functions of cancer and you can substitute any base you want. They do add bass to hand pulled noodles a little bit and I don't know why the whole way and I've had this argument with many people, including Dave Chang, who is interested in doing hand pulled noodles. At the same time, he's interested in doing ramen, hand pulled noodles are all about needing for such a long time that you obliterate the gluten you'll obliterate its ability to basically be snappy because you needed to pull without snapping gluten, you pull it and it forms that sheet that window but it does have a bit of a short texture to pull apart. So I don't know why you would. I don't know why the addition of can sway is written in all the recipes it must have something where you develop the gluten more quickly with the can sway and then it breaks apart when you hand pull them but as far as I can tell if someone called me and told me I'm a jerk, but cancel. Ramen is not a hand pulled situation. Hand pulled noodles don't have the bite of a ramen noodle hand pulled noodles. I'm not gonna go so far as to say they're mushy, but they're definitely don't have the same tooth that a can't sway you know, yellow Alkalyn noodle is going to have which is all about the tooth and the bite. Now as for ramen, the way it's typically made, industrially is it's extruded through dyes into thin strips, it's then steamed, right, and after it's steamed, it's fried. So the main characteristics of a noodle no matter what shape you make them ramen, you could make them in a pasta machine if you want them or hand cut them. If you want to know how to be a really baller hand cutter of noodles go to a different technology soba and when you're hand cutting noodles and soba the whole trick with cutting soba other than buying the really expensive awesome soba knife which looks insane like an executioner's it looks like an executioner's axe with instead of a handle you hold it at the top is they put a board on top of the noodles exactly flat. You stick the knife down and you never the blade never leaves contact with the board. You angle the blade ever so slightly which pushes the board over exactly one noodle length. And then with rather and without removing the knife from the board, you pull up the blade, put it perpendicular and slice down and keep going that's how you slice but kicking hand hand butt kicking him cut soba noodles, you could do the same with the yellow Alkalyn noodle, but I don't think it's very traditional. You could also put it through a pasta machine. But the key thing is steam. Then fry to finish the dehydration out and there you have Rahman if you need more information or if you want specific thing I can look more into it for you but that's the way she goes. And this has been the 53rd episode of Cooking issues.

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