Cooking Issues Transcript

Episode 29: The Perfect Espresso


Hello, everybody, and welcome to a brand new series on heritage radio network called the culinary call sheet where we give a peek into the back kitchen of culinary media. I'm your host, April Jones,

and I'm your co host, Darren bresnitz. Part of why we started the show was to offer an unofficial mentorship for anyone who's interested in learning about all aspects of food and video, whether that's TV, social media online, or just something you want to do for fun.

Absolutely what was once niche or a little silly, as I'm sure you remember, Darren, when we started out, this man has now become such a massive playing field for so many creatives using food as the medium.

It's something that has driven us professionally and personally, for so many years. What excites me the most about this show is that we're going to sit down with some of the industry leaders to hear how they made it and what drew them into this industry.

With 20 years in the culinary production game ourselves, we're hoping we can give through these conversations an insider's view into personal stories from the field, as well as an in depth behind the scenes look into some of the most popular food programming. In today's evolving culinary media landscape.

We'll be covering everything from how to style your food, to how to license IP, to developing your own ideas, and some tips from the masters of how to host your own show.

Yeah, it's a little bit of conversation, how to, and how do you do the things that you do in color media, which I'm so excited about? I love so many of the guests that are coming on this season. We have talent from Food Network from Vice media eater refinery 29,

we've met some of the best people in the world, both in front of and behind the camera. And we're bringing them all together to share their stories, their delicious adventure and their unique journey into this crazy world.

So to be the first to hear our episodes, when they launched this fall, go to wherever podcasts are streaming, and hit subscribe and make sure to give us a follow at the Culinary call sheet on Instagram.

Nine times out of 10 when someone is taking the time to break away and do their own thing, it's because they either have a specific point of view or a specific passion that really sort of speaks to maybe not a mass audience. But the customers that I have, and the customers that bought our house tries to culture and cultivate, I think are are those type of people who want that story and feel like if they take an allocation of an ad case made wine, that they've got something special and it's something that only they have or maybe one other person has. So that's kind of what we specialize in and may not be business savvy to the nth degree like we're not making 100,000 cases of Pinot Grigio and you know, slogging them all over New York but the customers that get wine from us are kind of believe in the same stuff we do, which is supporting these small farms supporting these young winemakers who have a passion for doing it, and and we supply them to the market. And we allow them to get their product out there to otherwise an untapped group of people.

Hello, and welcome to cooking issues on the heritage Radio Network coming to you live every tuesday from 12 to 1245. On Dave Arnold, your host of cookie issues. Natasha hammer Lopez joins us via telephone from sunny Florida where she's driving around in an RV with Piper and Grace two of our former interns who are spreading the cooking issues love down there in the sunny state of either Anastacia Yeah, nice, nice, calling all of your questions cooking related otherwise, to 71849721 to eight. That's 718-497-2128. A little note on the border house the sponsor for today. They are our wine sponsors for the museum of food and drink fundraiser coming up in about a month and a half. And listeners to the show might remember that we'd sampled some of their wine Bouza to not based one on the show a couple of months back and we enjoyed it right. And Stacia. Yes, we did. Yeah. Especially with a name like Bouza Bouza.

All right. Hey, David, how can people get tickets to the museum event?

I don't know. How do they why don't you tell me?

Well, first, someone needs to make an invite. All right, then what

you're hearing here is Natasha insulting me on on the radio, internet. So I haven't finished the invite yet. Yeah, call me out. Yeah. Anyway, very soon you will be able to sign on and get tickets to the event and taste some museum themed food by the likes of Mark Ladner Wiley defraying. Dave Chang, who else we got give us a whole list and Stacia no Noren Carlo

from rubber It is Brooks from Del Posto Christina Tozi veteran

and a host of amazing bartenders like we have Audrey Saunders. We have Thomas Walker from death and CO who else we have we have Simon for from printable card, who else we got, we got more people.

It's something to be able to grasp a lot of people,

it's gonna be good. Let me just put it this way. We beat all of our friends over the head with sticks, and they're going to come in and make some delicious product. So we hope you We hope you come in that date on that it's going to be Sunday, March 27. It's going to be in the afternoon. So we're going to get your drink on early in the day for a very good cause. Okay, it doesn't invite what? Oh, come on. Come on. People, people, please. Is it alright? She calls me out once twice. You need to call me out twice.

Alright, go on day via the show.

Alright, how was the drink that you guys made in? In the Stasha. viewers or listeners from last week? Remember that? I had to basically become a hypocrite and sell my soul to the devil and create a blue drink with blue food coloring. How did it come out?

It wasn't your best. It was good. People enjoyed it.

Yeah, people. Yes. Very good. Very good. All right. So Dorothy from Heath Glen organic farming kitchen, I believe in Minnesota, but I don't know. Right st and said, Oh, it says here in Minnesota. I'm preserved maker in Minnesota. And I've been working with oils and spices trying to infuse aroma into the jams and jellies upon completion. Of course, the aroma the fruit and spices and oils is wonderful as they're warming cooking. But it's mostly lost when cooled and gelled. I've tried infusing the jams at different stages of cooking and appointed woody herbs to release the oils use commercial aromatic oils, etc. Most of the aroma is lost after they've come to room temperature. However, any comments or suggestions? Well, couple of things, we have to figure out whether you're losing the aroma because one, the aroma is flashing off into the air. I doubt that's the case, because you're cooking and probably sealing it to Canada, I would presume. So I wouldn't think they're flashing off, I also wouldn't think they're necessarily being destroyed by the heat. During the during the process of making the the jams or jellies. I would guess the two main culprits are as it gels, more of the aroma is locked in. And so you're losing some simply based on gel strength. And the second thing I'm thinking is that these aromas probably are a lot less volatile at room temperature. So what I would do since the pectin is basically, you know, it'll it'll it'll melt, but it's not going to totally release when you heat it, I would say he didn't see whether the aroma comes back, it could just be a temperature phenomenon, where you just need to add more of these aromas because they're going to be consumed colder, you know, room temperature or cold out of the fridge. So I would think it's probably one of those two things, either the aromas themselves are being locked up in the pectin network, as the gels are being, you know, as it's gelling, or to just a temperature related from the temperature related phenomenon, you could actually check quite easily just by making something and not adding a sufficient acid or sugar content for the product gel and just adding it you know, for the for the Roma waiting for it to cool, but not gel and see whether or not the aroma is still there. It'd be a good first test, but get back to us with more details about the procedure and everything like that, and we'll try to work on it. I was hoping to have Harold McGee call in today, but he can't unfortunately, that would have been a great question for him. That's right up Harold's alley, right Saudi? Yeah, that is Yeah, yeah. Oh, and another follow up, I believe on last week's show. Someone called in and their question was, they wanted to make cookies, but they didn't want them. They wanted them relatively thick, without spreading out too much. But they didn't want them to become cakey. And I had it and they asked whether they could use hydrocolloids. I had a couple of half baked suggestions. I then last week, we spoke to Christina Tosi from milk bar, who's also doing a dessert at the museum event by the way. And so Tony and I were talking and she actually says that you can add xanthan gum, which you can buy at Whole Foods, you can just go into Whole Foods and and buy it say whatever his name is not Red Rover like Bob's Red Mill or something like that bag a xanthan gum and add some I don't know percentages, I would add probably on the order of a half a percent by weight of the flour basis or something like this, I don't know. And she said it actually does help limit spread. But the most interesting thing she said was try using high protein flour and your cookies, bread flour or similar and basically she said look, it will stop this it will stop the spread and keep it thicker. But as long as you don't increase the leaveners it's not going to make it cakey. And because there's so much fat in the cookie recipe butter in the cookie recipe, you're not going to get significant gluten formation even though you're using a high protein flour, so it's not gonna make it chewy in a bad sense and a protein anyway, but we'll limit spread and it's the easy way without changing a lot of your formulation. Anyway, so I thought that was interesting and a good follow up I can do least pretend like we follow up on some of this stuff, right and Sasha, right? Yes. Okay. Joseph writes in and says, I've been listening to your show for a long time and I love it. Well, thank you, Joseph. And he has a question regarding ISI or ECT, Mr. Schwartz the current thing they liked, they like ISR AC DC Alright, so II see they're the good folks from Austria that make seltzer makers the twist and sparkling seltzer making machine. They make whipped cream chargers etc etc with cream siphons and we use it a lot to do rapid infusions using nitrous. And you can look on www dot cooking issues.com For more on that, but Joseph wants to know, he's interested in the thermo Ripper so he can create hot or cold foams and was wondering what my recommendations are. Okay. So the thermo Whip, whip errs are different from the normal EC whip errs. And they're basically just whipped cream makers in it, the thermal whip is insulated like a thermos. Right now, the the good thing about the thermal whip is if you fill a thermal whip with hot water, really hot water, and then dump it out, and then put a hot product into a foam, it stays hot for a long time. Similarly, if you want something cold if you put ice water into the thermal whip, and chill out the inside, and then dump it out and put a cold product in, it stays cold for a long time. So it's it acts like a thermos and like a cream whip or to do sauces, creams, or if you want to keep whipped cream out on the counter for a long time in a coffee shop scenario, something like this, it's going to keep the quality high because the temperature is not going to change too much. Right now, the downside of the thermal river is is that even though it looks relatively big, it holds a relatively small amount of product, right? Because there's so much space for the installation around. It's also very expensive compared to a normal Cream Lip or so you're dealing with a lot more money for a smaller volume of product that you can put in the whip or at any one time. So in fact, it looks like a one liter whimper but it actually has the capacity of the half liter whimper now and that's not a forerunner against I'm just telling you like what the what the reality is of it. Now, the the other thing about it is, is that if you are working in a kitchen, right, so you could take one that's not a Thermoweb and you can either store it in the fridge, or you could store it in a hot water bath to keep it hot. For ServiceNow it's much more convenient, right to be able to just put a hot thing and have it stay hot or cold thing and have it stay cold. But you're going to be paying for that luxury by you know, with reduced capacity, which actually isn't bad if you're only making a small amount you don't want to put a small amount of stuff into a big dipper. So it can actually help if you're dealing with small quantities, but you're going to have a smaller quantity and a higher cost now it's just something you have to weigh out there's nothing that there's nothing that the thermal whip will do for you that the other ones can't do they just make it easier to maintain temperature. All right, Joseph so I hope I hope that answered your question how do you decide which one you want to buy? Of course we have the cooking issues fans of the of the EC folks right and Sasha Yes, yes yes. By the way, we still can get calls even though you're on the phone with us right?

Yeah, don't worry I would never block that.

Oh my god I would never block that like like we have so many people pounding on our doors with calls but let me tell you since we're about to go to our first commercial break I would like to hear some callers at 718-497-2128 That's 718-497-2128 cooking issues I have so much bone in here I have to do getting down but gonna have a punk gonna have

Welcome back to Cooking issues calling all your questions to 718-497-2128 That's 718-497-2128 here for another half hour so of course the stashes hanging out in Florida driving an RV up and down the coast so she had to stop the RV so that she can call in how's the driving going to Stasha

we actually just picked it up and I'm in the RV shop. You

actually in the shop so you're in the shop so you're staring at at the RV is it a sweet ride?

Yeah it's pretty sweet.

What does he get? Half a mile to the gallon? What does that thing get about that? Yeah, and you're packing how many people into that five five people into an RV awesome. So is our Piper and Grace giving you the giving you the hairy squint to get the hell off the radio.

Yeah. I'm the one who's who's been pushing everyone to go, go go. So I made them all go get food. And guess

that sounds like you, that's why you're the hammer, okay? We had someone call in actually with some right in rather with some comments on our sponsors and my relative either enthusiasm or lack thereof for them. And so I thought I'd share some feelings, and you know, maybe make an apology to one. But while back we have a sponsor, I think they're still sponsor 360 cookware, they don't have me read that one anymore. But basically, it's it's a line of cookware, that it claims to use a steam technology to enhance the speed at which food is cooked and also a lot lock in nutrients or something like that. And I was told that I was kind of rude and insulting to them on the air. In fact, mustache had told me that afterwards, and then I kind of tried to make up for it the week after, but I just want to say a little bit about what happened with that. Here's the deal, right? My whole life is based around food and food equipment and things like that. And so I always take with a huge grain of salt, any sort of claim made by any sort of corporation that anything can do anything outside of my realm of normal experience. And the problem isn't that the problem is, basically is that I read that I read the sponsorship thing without actually ever having evaluated the equipment. So it's hard for it's hard for someone like me to straight read something that somebody claims is true. Have it come out of my mouth without me being able to verify or no, and and I'm also inherently skeptical of any claims, right? So, you know, it seems that and that's probably why they don't have me read these things anymore. But, but it doesn't, it doesn't like reflect on anything I know about that company, it reflects on my on my lack of knowledge. It's just it's hard for me sometimes if I get caught off guard, and I don't have the time or the resources to do the proper research. It's hard for me to say to say something, either good or bad. So it can come off as snarky, so I apologize. But that same reader heard. We have a sponsor here, Sam Edwards, and actually was Sam Edwards, our Splunk no butter house with our sponsor today, Sam Edwards from as well as Edward Edwards in San ham. I've known him for a long time he makes delicious ham products. And this reader actually remembered that and went back and tried the actual ham, the Siriano ham, that there was being sold at Murray's Cheese on his way through Grand Central and indeed thought it wasn't delicious ham, so people do not steer you wrong. Also, I wish it wasn't called Suriano ham. I wish it was just called delicious. Virginia ham from the s Wallace Edwards and company but that's another story that I've already gone through. Ryan's Dasha. Yeah,

that is right. Yeah,

yeah. So anyway, so seriously, I think that's why they don't have me read these things anymore. I mean, I don't know that.

Yeah, I think that's what they've, yeah.

Yeah, I'm not about I'm not a bad guy. It's just if you catch me when I'm not, you know, when I don't know what's gonna go on. It's just, you know, I never know, even I don't know what I'm going to say, you know? And yeah. Okay, so we had a question about the Martha center few story that we talked about. Martha, Martha Stewart center few story. It's not like, it's not like Oprah where, you know, if you say Martha and you're talking people know what you're talking about, then obviously, you can just say Martha, but it's, you know, there are a bunch of Martha's in the world, whereas there's only one over anyway. I like the Martha Stewart center for your story. And by the way, Martha Stewart last week canceled on us because of inclement weather. And so Martha Stewart's center fuse is still chilling at the at the French Culinary Institute is being moved from hallway to hallway because it has no has no home. So do you know when we're scheduled to do that again? Sasha.

She hasn't gotten back to me and I sent her the videos of the Yeah, coconut and Carrie Yeah,

one centrifuge centrifuge for sale, right. It's like like the like we have just a centrifuge floating around. Anyway. So he liked the story, and he'd like to see it he sent us an eBay link to another centrifuge asking whether we could fix it up and give it to Oprah. And it was hilarious. I went to the centrifuge link and it's an old clay Adams Jr. centrifuge and the most hilarious part about it is that for those of us who enjoy a good natured ribbing of our Canadian northern neighbors, but the Canadian it meets all Canadian engineering Standards Association warrants anyway it but what it basically is is a motor with a two test tubes that it swings around in the air like swinging the test tubes around a you know, in the air with no kind of wood, no kind of covering, and it was a whopping on eBay 159 99, which is preposterous for centrifuge of that type. I mean, ridiculous because it's, it's unusable. Basically, it's completely, completely dangerous. They still actually make manual centrifuges that are completely open like that, and they come in or two or four test tubes and they have a crank on him. And I've considered buying them several times. Kent Kirschenbaum, our buddy from NYU actually enjoys these just because they make like, you know, an awesome kind of Like helicopter noise, and they, they look incredibly dangerous, which I assume they are. But they're currently only used really for petroleum and oil analysis because you could take them out in the middle of nowhere and spin samples down to check, you know, I guess oil levels and there's a certain, you know, in a particular sample or, or, or you can, or solids levels and dirt samples. But unfortunately, unfortunately, I believe Paul sent us that and unfortunately, they don't achieve G levels high enough for us to use them for juice clarification of you know, in the videos that I've shot of the inside of our centrifuge that I have yet to post because I'm a jerk to 2000 gs is about the minimum where the stuff starts really clarifying and an appreciable rate. But even even at that, at that thing at 2000 G's, it looks like it's clarifying, but it doesn't form a pellet in the bottom of the centrifuge buckets that's strong enough to be able to really decant it properly without without like becoming hazy resuspending some of the crap. So really, you want like three to 4000 G's, which unfortunately, these guys won't do, I think they'll do just under about 1000 G's. And the other problem is, is that 450 milliliter test tubes isn't really enough to make, make, you know, fruit juice for your even even too close buddies, much less 200 Close buddies. And so, you know, although we've considered buying one for demonstration purposes, I don't think I will be although, you don't know, I don't know what Oprah wants to do with a centrifuge Edison and Oprah wants us to fix up that centrifuge. We'll do it. We'll even make it safe. Right, we'll build a box around it. You know, we'll shut it all up. I'll get I'll get our intern Brooke, who's the master cleaner and she'll make that thing look better than it was new it'll look like I don't know anyway, it's perfect but if you really want a dangerous old centrifuge ball, man I suggest that you go for the SOAR vol or as they were known before, they changed their name to sort of all the serve all SS one superspeed aluminum centrifuge, which is basically just an eighth position. You know, 50 mil rotor, aluminum rotor, like from the 50s It looks like a Jetson thing on a motor on a stand. And there's little that has scared me more in my food cooking life than firing up the softball SS one danger fuge and having that thing going at full speed and in a kitchen. Natasha, do we ever throw that away? Or do we save it for sentimental reasons? He

gave it to an intern. Really? Who Piper I don't remember who took it.

But yeah, you know, we had to give it away because my inherent problem is is that if I own it, I will be tempted to run it for some reason or another right and it's just a terrible, terrible idea. An awesome awesome paperweight and a terrible, terrible idea to use. All right. So can Ingber sent us some questions, and one of them's on ultra pasteurization milk. And it's cheesemaking properties and it's filmmaking properties. And so he recently was working on making mozzarella cheese from scratch. Although you know most people when they're making mozzarella, especially if you haven't done it before, I recommend buying the curd first and then testing your mozzarella skills on just the you know on the actual pasta filata part on making the cheese in the hot water. That way you can perfect that that portion of it before you go to the actual part of making the curd. Although we all know that I would also do the same thing and go directly from milk to cheese and there's no way I would buy my curd so I obviously think you wouldn't do that. But still, I should just like to say that I reckon I shouldn't recommend that anyway. So one instruction everyone gives is to avoid Ultra Patrat pasteurized milk. Because if they don't form curds properly, and so he's not using ultra pasteurized milk for for that. And then I went to look it up and see see why it's actually quite interesting. When you pasteurized milk, you denature a certain part part of the of the whey proteins, basically I think it's beta lactic globulin, right? You as they denature they have a tendency then to, to adsorb onto or too complex with the casing. And what happens when you're when you make cheese when you make curds with rennet, which is the enzyme that's used to make you know most cheeses is that it basically cleaves off a hydrophilic part of the casein casein micelles and makes it such that they're more hydrophobic and because of that, they tend to aggregate together and form a cheese curd right now if you pasteurize your milk, too much too high temperature or for too long, the denatured whey proteins basically glom on to the casein and present prevent them from from forming a good gel from from aggregating together and forming a good gel. So ultra pasteurized milk, we really can't make a good, strong, good, strong current current out of it. There's been some studies recently I didn't get a chance to read it too much, though, it that's not the only thing going on because they tried to they basically removed all of the whey proteins from milk so it was just basically a casein suspension. Then they hated that and they still had problems with getting it to aggregate properly if it had been cooked. Higher temperatures. So there's actually more than one thing going on with it. But a lot of people have been, there's a bunch of reasons why you'd want to pasteurize to a higher temperature. One is because certain cheeses have an infection with Clostridium thairo, a butyl recomb, which I'm sure I've pronounced incorrectly, but it makes butyric acid later on, and the cheese ripening can make it smell lateral when what's a good word vomit, like vomit. And so they try to kill that with ultra high temperature, pasteurization, but it really stops that cheese from ripening properly later in the in the process, because it also destroys some native milk enzymes that are needed for the protein ripening further down the line. So that, you know, that's what I spent my morning reading about that kind of stuff. But he actually wasn't interested necessarily in making cheese. But in whether or not ultra pasteurized milk is going to make a difference in frothing for cappuccinos. And I don't know, I assume it would, because the protein in milk is one of the things that's helping form a stable milk foam when you're when you're frothing cappuccinos. And so I would assume and you know, as we all know, milk loses a lot of its whatnot. As we all know, if you're a cappuccino head, or a milk frothing head, you know, most people recommend not taking your milk as you're filming it a much above mean, they don't recommend taking it much above one 140 A lot of the times Fahrenheit really 150 in that range. Otherwise, if I don't take it up there, my wife thinks the drink is too cold. But presumably you're inhibiting the formation of phones with a similar reaction where you're basically inhibiting the ability of the casing to act as a as a good foam stabilizer. This is my assumption. I don't know I could be 100% wrong, but this is my assumption. So I would assume that ultra high pasteurized stuff does not foam as well, although I have not tested it. But what was more interested in is that it turns out that Oh, and he was also asking because he has a little thing called an arrow Chino, and even though he's the fellow that wrote in about the arrow press, apparently the arrow Chino is not related to the arrow, press. It's a little thing that foams, phones milk by having a little squiggle doodle on what he what he calls spring squiggle, doodle, squiggle doodle, but anyway, it whips a little spring around and heats the milk to create a foam. And you know, you can make a good foam just by agitation and you don't need an arrow squiggle to do it. You know, when I'm when I'm, you know, in the wilds, and by that I mean at my mom's house or at my mother in law's house. You know, I always found milk by shoving a whisk into a coffee mug, heating the milk and swirling the whisk back and forth between my hands. You know, spinning it almost like like a chocolate like a coffee, a chocolate frother like a Mexican chocolate frother. And it works. Okay, it doesn't work. Great. And I think, you know, it might be possible to get a decent and the question for any kind of foam head with coffee is not can you produce bubbles, because any moron can produce bubbles. It's whether you can produce a microphone, right? So like the real coffee heads if you show them a foam that you made in your cappuccino machine, even if you really like it, right, but it has lots of big bubbles on the top there. Like that's dishwasher soap. That's crap. You know what I mean? They want like a dense, stable, or semi stable but very dense kind of microfoam almost the bubbles are so small, that they're almost imperceptible when you look at them. They don't look like a big batch of bubbles. It just looks like a dense, creamy foam and that's what they're looking at. And I have my doubts as to whether or not you could use a spring to do it. Although I'm probably wrong. I'd like to see someone and maybe I haven't had time to go on coffee geek which is a great website for you coffee heads to go onto but I haven't had a chance to go on and see whether or not anyone's created a really nice microphone with one of these little whip doodles as there's got mustache you think of a better name than whip doodle but even more interesting than that is that Ken is an owner of a of a law tymberlee Liberty lever machine right now. For those of you out there who don't know about Liverpool espresso or don't drink espresso and if you don't drink espresso go out and learn to drink espresso but if you if you like espresso as I do, you know you're gonna at some point, spend a lot of time researching Liverpool machines now. I myself am an owner of a micro Kimberli which is a small lever lever operated Cimber Kimberly's an espresso machine manufacturer but I'm an owner of one I don't use anymore because it's a big pain in the rear. But Liverpool espresso machines to my tastes make the best espresso that you could possibly have. Now my my my relationship to espresso machines goes back to the mid to late 90s When I was going to restaurant auctions in New York City and buying restaurant equipment on the cheap. I realized very early on that you know there's no way I was going to buy myself a you know, a home, a home espresso machine because you know everyone on the internet and I was reading the professional, you know, the professional baristas were like, you know, there is no home machine that can make real espresso and back in those days. There really wasn't I mean, there was the there was the rancilio Ma'am with this Silvia was, I think around at that point, I think, and people were modifying it, but no one had modified the machines to the level that they're modifying now. So really, the only thing you could do was you could get a real commercial espresso machine, which is what I did, and went to an auction. And I believe I've said this on the air once before, but you know, New York Times has auctions in the back of there there used to in the back of the help wanted ads, and restaurants are closing all the time here in New York. So I went, and this one I was super excited because the restaurant had been shut down because of they had been dealing drugs out of the restaurant. And what that meant was that the whole building had just been padlocked. And all the food was still in there. And the stench was enough to like completely like, blow your pants off. It was that bad as stench was so awful. And what that meant was, is that none of the normal restaurant equipment dealers, or chefs could stand it right, because, you know, they had other things to be doing with their lives and dealing with his heart stench for hours. Me on the other hand, as a just ex grad student with about two nickels in my pocket, and desire, you know, desiring a professional espresso machine that cost 1000s and 1000s of dollars was like, this is an awesome opportunity. So I stuck around bought a, you know, a two head rancilio commercial espresso machine for like 100 and change dollars and paid paid a literal just got out of Rikers X crack dealer crackhead to drive it to drive me with it in his station wagon back to my house. My loft. At the time, realized I didn't I knew so little about espresso machines at the time, that I didn't realize that the pump was a super important part that was separate. And I accidentally left it in this guy's car. And I had to call him and like, go to his house and retrieve this pump. Because bleep nightmare. Anyway, it got me It launched me on my on my love of espresso. But I became interested in lever machines at the time, because another way to generate really good espresso without having a big pump is to just basically use your hands to have a piston to force the espresso out because espresso is as I said on the show before, not possible at the lower pressures that people are using, you really want somewhere in the area of 135 or so a plus or minus a bunch PSI of pressure pushing coffee at a very precise temperature through a compressed coffee puck. You know, in 22 to 28 seconds. That's espresso. Right That's That's it, that's all you got, there is no more so. So Anywho. So the the lever machines are great. And there's always a fight between true lever heads who say that lever lever espresso is better, you know, and the people who use the pumps and say the pumps are better. Now, there's two basic lever styles, the one that everyone gets the lap of the Pavoni. You know, you're a piccolo, right, that's the current one that you see in the stores, it's all shiny chrome. In that one, when you pull down on the piston, you're applying the pressure to the actual coffee puck and putting the putting the water through in all commercial espresso machines. And interestingly, in the cimbali Micro in the micro tymberlee lever machine, which is a whole machine. All the commercial ones, your hand when you pull down is engaging a spring. And then when you release it, it's the actual spring that's providing the pressure. And for years, many people wrote in their in their blogs and whatnot, that the reason that Liverpool machines were better is because or different anyway is because Liverpool machines had a constant pressure whereas the rotary pump that we use in modern espresso machines is not as even a pressure right and that's why they say that that's the difference between the two. So basically, the difference is in a nutshell that you get more crema and a rotary pump machine but you get a smoother tasting cup and a Liverpool machine and and you know think about this and then you know what I did a lot of research on it because about four or five years ago I went to the National Restaurant Association show and someone was pulling shots out of a Liverpool Vittorio Arduino which is not you know, aesthetically not my style but it's all you know gussied up with brass and all crap like that. But But this guy pulled two shots one out of that one out of that and one out of a LaMarche SoCo, which is a sweet machine sitting right next to it. And same barista, same beans, and the Arduino blew the LA Marzocco out of the water, it was one of the best cups of espresso. It was definitely the best cup of espresso I've ever had in Chicago, let's put it that way. But it was one of the better custom espresso I'd ever had. And I resolved right there that I was going to figure out the lever machine. And here's what it is, it makes a lever machine better than than a pump machine or to my tastes better. It's not that it's smoother. It's that the pressure changes, right? Because I had been thinking if I was going to build one of my own How do I compensate for the fact that a spring is going to exert more force when it's that when it's compressed more and didn't start to get lost? Everything is going to exert more force when it's compressed more and less when it's compressed less right? So it's not that the rotary pump is more is less even, it's at the spring pump actually changes its pressure from the beginning of the shot to the end of the shot, which makes for to my tastes a smoother, better cup. And so, one thing I've been working on for the past couple of years, but now I'm finished building it although I have done handmade tests of it is espresso machine where you can adjust the pressure during the shot and the true story is is that if you manually adjust the pressure from from high right at the at the initial part of the shot little bit over 140 and then drop it down and towards the end of the shot you can do a Liverpool mug shot with a Liverpool style shot with a rotary pump jack is telling me that we're going to go to our next commercial break so Colin all of your questions too 718-497-2128 That's 718-497-2128

So much phone call your name I don't want people to know if you're getting down but gonna have a punk gonna have we're gonna have oh my god All right I want everybody to remember we're going to get right

back and it says Hi and

Welcome back to Cooking issues calling your questions 271-849-7218. That's 71849721 to eight. Someday we'll play that song long enough to get to the down D funky D part because you know, it's all about the down D funky D. Oh, one more thing interesting is that about pasteurization going back to pasteurized ultra pasteurized milk Jack says he's not been able to ever adequately froth, ultra high pasteurized milk, you know, even like the fancy organic stuff. And the reason of course that they all try pasteurized that stuff is so that you can increase the shelf life I guess because they have small distribution runs. But another interesting thing on pasteurization in general is we have a new clarification technique in our centrifuge that I haven't written about yet, where we use a combination of silica Sol Kiesel Sol and Kaita sand, which is a polysaccharide unfortunately, derived from shellfish. So you know, it's not for vegetarians, where we can now clarify lime juice in our centrifuge in, you know, with 98% yield or more. It's crazy, and it's super fast. It doesn't involve ag or any other nonsense. It's awesome. And it's all stuff you can buy at a homebrew shop, but unfortunately, you have to own it on a centrifuge. But what's funny is it doesn't work on pasteurized Tropicana orange juice. And so if anyone out there has speculation as to why I can clarify fresh orange juice, and fresh grapefruit juice, but I can't clarify pasteurize orange juice, but I can clarify pasteurized grapefruit juice? Please let us know because it's something that I can't I can't figure it out. So I don't know. Don't know what's going on. Got another question in actually more, you know, more of a comment something to think about something I hadn't thought about a while back, someone asked us about different tubers. So we did a kind of tuber of the world, you know, thing. And one of the things we mentioned is that well a lot of tube tubers like cassava have, you know can have a potentially deadly levels of cyanide precursors in them. So they need to be treated properly that other ones have very high levels of oxalic acid. And so you know, which is usually concentrated in the in the leaves and whatnot, but have to be cooked properly. One of those is Taro. So we were talking about Taro, you know, the same stuff that you make, you know, Taro putting out him and all that Taro chips, all that. And so we were talking about oxalic acid and one of our, you know, listeners brought to our attention the fact that there is a probably a more occurring now, but less known disease called XL osis. And so and, you know, it basically causes kidney stones. If you have kidney stones, it means that you're not getting rid of your excess oxalate, but it's something I hadn't I hadn't thought about. But what he said is that there's the science is crazy because the list of foods doesn't seem to make any sense. So you can't you can't have all the ingredients in French toast, let's say but you can't have french toast and you can't have you know, there's a whole list of things means that you can't have, I would encourage anyone to write in and tell us anything they know about this. I'm interested in it. My mom just got over a really, really bad bout of kidney stones. And so it's something I'm interested in. So if anyone writes in, we'll do a little thing on on diet, and oxalic acid and oxalate, oxytocin, but it's definitely something that we should be more probably more more attuned to something that I hadn't really, really thought about. So Natasha tells me that I have a bunch of questions that I haven't actually gotten to because I've been yapping about stuff that I'm interested in. So Natasha, what are those? What questions am I missing out on? Do you know, because

I forward them to your email, but one guy wants to know how to make great brisket,

how to make great brisket could get right. Now, if you want to make a great brisket, the question is what kind of technique what kind of technique do you want to use, I mean, you can do a low temperature cook on a brisket. But it's not going to have the same taste and texture as you would have like a classic Texas style brisket. Because it's an entirely different cooking technique both are low and slow. And a classic technique you're using the poor heat transfer of the of the medium and plus the evaporation off the surface of the meat to ensure that the meat doesn't dry out too much during its long cooking period. Although that sounds contradictory, I think it's what I meant. Whereas if you do it low temperature, you're typically going to be doing it in a bag, I would probably cook it on the order of the length of time that I would cook if you're doing low temperature and you want to basically throw it into a Ziploc bag with a little bit of fat, I would I would say depending on what you want between 60 degrees Celsius for about 56 hours or I would try all the way up to 63 four degrees for like 4040 48 hours or even as high as 65 for you know for for like 36 hours or so. But if you want the brisket to have that cured taste, then obviously you're gonna have to put some tender quick or some nitrite into it to get it to have that pure taste and then the vacuuming it down will cause that to penetrate faster but I haven't read the email so I don't know exactly what what is being looked at I only you know this is just off the top of my head like different things you can do to brisk Is that does that answer pretty much the question and Stacia having not read

I mean he just said that he saw your fried chicken recipe and he wanted to know if you have any good recipes for brisket

my friend my fried chicken which one on the on the food and wine? Yeah, yeah. You know I now when I do fried chicken at home I still love that recipe Carlo here at Roberta's has like a crazy recipe that I think is derived from the pies and thighs franchise which have closed and then reopened here in New York and they have an insane insanely easy recipe that really makes me kind of upset because because I liked it but it was you know goes against all of my knowledge of good chicken making and that is they they take it directly out of the brine the chicken they don't dry off the skin or anything like that. You throw it directly into AP flour I think with maybe some salt and pepper I don't know remember if they added Baking Soda Baking powder but no egg no nothing no milk and then fry it directly and I thought was pretty good. What do you think Mr. Bhatia? It was delicious. Yeah, anyway, so that's something I'm going to research on fried chicken but currently the problem with fried chicken when I make it at home is that fried chicken has to be fried at a lower temperature than French fries and onion rings. And so to the way I always used to do it is I fry off all my chicken rent my my temperatures and then and then bust out on my fries which is fine at dinner but at a party it becomes kind of a hassle because you can't throw out all your fryer temperatures up and down like that because I have a 35 pound deep fryer at home which is a commercial deep fryer. So what I do now is I do cooking for what I call low temperature for insurance. I bag in cooking insurance that is not like you know insurance like for your house is I bag all of the chicken in the milk in a very small amount of the milk Brian very small amount just enough to get a good seal on a Ziploc bag and I cook the breast meat at 64 for about an hour Celsius and I cook the leg meat at 65 and a half for about an hour and then I pulled them out and when they're hot I pulled them out of the bag and put them on a great so that the skin can dry off just from the heat of the evaporating off the chicken and that's the crucial step when people do a low temp before they fry that they forget to do on a chicken because they they let it cool in the bag and then they pull off and they get really bad adhesion of the flour and batter to the chicken skin. So the secret is pull it out when it's hot. Let it flash off in the open. Then I do my traditional my traditional breading technique on it. Which is goes into a buttermilk egg it goes flour, buttermilk, egg, baking soda, baking powder and then back into flour and then and then you fry it and then I can fry the chicken at a very high temperature same temperature as my fries and I know it's perfect every time I don't have to worry about it going over or under. I don't have to stick a knife into it and stick it against the my bottom lip to see whether or not I've cooked all the way thru which is what I used to have to do all the time. So it's really good way of doing chicken if you have an immersion circulator some access to low temperature, otherwise you have to just cut the chicken pieces smaller so that they could cook through faster. Did I have any more questions? I didn't answer Natasha.

Yeah, someone wants to know how to do duck comfy to read.

So duck coffee cvwd, or low temperature if you don't have a, you know, an actual vacuum machine is an interesting, interesting problem. So we don't do low low temperature. In other words, we don't cook it any lower temperature than you would normally cook it because coffee, the texture of coffee is only achieved at the higher temperatures you'd associate with a normal braising. However, su VT is a fantastic technique for for doing comfy for several reasons. First of all, you still have to cure the duck legs beforehand, right? You have to cure them with salt and you know, whatever herbs you normally rub in, let it sit overnight. But you don't need a lot of fat. This is the primary thing that's great. You don't need a lot of fat to do to do comfy CV and you could basically bag the leg by itself with maybe an extra tablespoon of fat. If that seal it, you can seal it really hard, because you have a backbone. And so you need to seal it pretty pretty hard. And normally when you steal poetry poetry on the bone, the problem is the blood is sucked out of the red stuff sucked out of the bone. It can lend pinkness to the meat that doesn't go away even when you cook it but coffee is cooked so high that you don't need to worry about it, then just throw it into simmering water in the bag for you know, three hours or so until you feel that you can feel the bone through the through the duck meat and you know it's done. Pull it out, let it cool down, you know, a little on your counter for 2030 minutes, then you know, put it in a in the fridge or in an ice bath and chill it down. And it's perfect. It's so not messy compared to normal coffee. You can do individual leg portions by themselves. So you can easily you know, if you're a family of two, you can you cook the breasts for you know one thing and then just comfy, just those two legs, and then serve them whenever you want. And so it's really super easy for someone to comfy, especially at home when you don't have a zillion duck legs lying around. And you don't have like buckets of duck fat and you haven't been saving duck fat from rendering all the breasts like they do in restaurants. The thing's never going to overheat. It's never going to go bad. So it really is a fantastic technique for doing duck comfy but I would basically just use simmering water. Or if you have a circulator set it to about 85 Celsius and run it run it that way until it's done. And I think it's I think it's great. I mean, it's not necessarily better than traditional coffee. It may it's probably a little moisture. It's not necessarily better, but it definitely is a great, great way to do duck coffee, especially at home. Don't have any more than I missed. No, because it's time and your time is up. Yeah, but Did I miss any? No, no. All right. And here's one more thing on the way out. I am going to soon write my post on up Hendrix fruits of New York series, the greatest pomological reference library of all times, and yesterday I acquired the last two. I'm actually missing one more but the last two of the series and so now I am the owner of the greatest pomological reference series of all times this has been cooking shows we'll see you next week. God don't know where I'm at