Cooking Issues Transcript

Olive Oil with Nicholas Coleman


Hello and welcome to cooking issues. This is Dave, another host of cooking issues coming to you live on newsstands studios in Rockefeller Center in the heart of Manhattan. joined as usual with Anastasia the hammer Lopez in her undisclosed hidey hole in Stanford. How're you doing stuff? I'm good. How are you? Doing all right. All right. We got got Chico Hasan in the booth. How you doing?

I'm doing great. How are you doing?

I'm doing all right. Here's a question and a question from our special guests who I'll introduce in a minute about whether we're actually on the radio or not. Which of course we aren't. Not, you know, because we're podcast right? But it's like, Joe, when you were growing up? Were you a were you a pirate radio guy? Were you like, did you do radio stuff or just music? He like engineering stuff? Or is that not your bag at all?

My bag was first in the studio. And then I became the head engineer over at East Village radio, which was a radio studio in East Village, a real radio real internet radio. We started out on FM and then we quickly got in trouble by the FCC.

Yeah, my uncle was a country. He's an Italian crazy crazy Uncle Larry just says he's no it's crazy. Uncle Larry from Medford. Okay, if that sets the picture, like old school Italian guy, country DJ, and he almost got arrested got his house padlocked when he was a kid because he built a big pirate station and didn't realize that the FCC was going to come around with a triangulation antenna and like totally, they have no sense of humor about this stuff. You notice that? Joe? None. None. But guess what? Guess what rules? We don't have to follow Joe. Yes, yeah. Yeah, yeah, FCC. crap on them. crap on him. It Up on the FCC. Joined also with customer service. extraordinaire agent is John knihu. How you doing? turn red. Thanks. Yeah, yep. Yeah, he's right here in the studio with me. Yeah, so we're swapping it up. It looks like someone from Booker and DAX has to be in Connecticut at all times. Or the earth ends I think is what happens and of course we got Jackie molecules which booth you and now you're in some sort of DC thing you still doing that DC thing?

No, no, I'm in LA. I'm home in LA and my first job was on am radio.

Oh, wow. Like am talker when they still tried to play music they like it's stereo. Now do you have the stereo am machine he wasn't like that.

It was you know, student radio 1440 We played music and we do stuff like on a giveaway bowling tickets. You know, it'd be like, first caller to call and gets bowling tickets or something like that. Yeah, it was cool, though. It was real radio.

I think bowling is really fun for a game and a half. What about you?

Two full games to a half a game? What do you do with a half a game.

And I mean, I used to go bowling more when I wasn't of drinking age. I'm sure if if the cocktails kept coming to the alley, I'm sure I could go for more games. But I have really fat fingers. And so they get stuck in the thumb holes. And so like either like the thumb hole is so big that it's like slip sliding away down that down the lane. Or I get that every time it leaves my thumb and then my thumb inflates bigger and bigger and I have to move to a bigger and bigger ball. The further I go down. You know what I'm saying? I think that's where my two gay Max comes from. I'll watch you play forever as long as there's like, you know, I mean, I don't really like chicken tenders. But I'll eat the chicken tenders. And, you know, and some cocktails and in a plastic glass. You know, I'm saying sounds good. Yeah. So before we talk about further inanities, let me introduce we've been trying to have this guy on for I don't know stuff how long a year

he was supposed to do his birthday in December.

All right. So like not a full year but a different year. So like, you know, in the way that they age soy sauce. It's been a year. Yes, yeah. Yah, we have with us, Nicholas Coleman from Grove and Vine he is and this is the grossest title ever, and Ollie ologists Alright, is that was an ollie ologists

it stems from the Italian word OLIO logo, which is like the ENO logo of wine becomes an enologist. So an ollie oligo becomes an ollie ology, right. And that term was coined by Luigi curry Cocteau, this famous Italian olive oil expert.

Well, a lot of things sound good in other languages. But like, for instance, like one of my favorite kind of gross words, food description words, oleaginous

Oh, mine is mucilaginous. Oh, I think that's one grocer.

Yeah, you know, we had an okra discussion a couple of weeks ago when Dr. Jessica Harris was on dairy. mucilaginous and by the way, John, Mo fed you want to tell him it's opening up to the public when tomorrow? Ooh, African slash American. Yeah, making table

is giving an NPR interview right now on WNYC about

this. I know. I know. I know. But go listen to the wn. Go. Listen, listen, if you're listening live on Patreon, calling all of your olive oil questions to 917 For one, oh 1507 That's 9174010 1507. And then listen to that. Listen to Dr. Harris. Afterwards, man. Afterwards,

Jessica, and then they'll tune into us.

But now they can't because if they leave, they can only listen to one of us live. They can't. And first of all, first of all I have. I have Nicolas here. I have Nick here. All this whole time, we're gonna be talking about olive oil and various other unrelated things. For instance, it is my estimation, I could be totally wrong that Mr. I met you through this dasya. Yes, yeah. And YouTube bonded over your mutual hatred of story songs.

No, I think we bonded over now, our distaste of corporate middle management.

When do you guys have to deal with corporate major middle management?

It's a thing. Yeah, it's a thing.

Like literally, both Anastasia and I are the middle management, the bottom management and the top management of our company.

We've worked our way past core Myrtle to our own thing, and but I think that's how we monitor but we've known each other for many, many years. Yeah.

And you also say that you do Hate Story songs.

No, you. Literally the people out there in podcast land. Dave Arnold, in no way represents my ideas or thoughts. Okay,

well, correct me if I'm wrong. The thing that I say about you all the time that you hate the most, but it's most true is that you think Dylan's way overrated?

No, Dylan is a genius. And he's a living legend. And he's an American hero. And he's a pioneer. But he's also just sometimes, after listening to him for a period of time, I'm like, I gotta turn this off. Because this guy's voice is starting to become a really obnoxious. Yeah. And that's a fair assessment of that man's voice.

And mine. So the, the other. The other thing is that and listen, listen. So the reason you should keep listening to get past this intro thing, where we're going to be talking about random things, is because what Nick does is like, for you, basically, whoever you are, right, travels the world, and finds amazing producers of olive oil, right? convinces them to bottle it under a under their own or his own label. But like, keeps it so it's not getting bucket ties into huge tankers, right, keeps the production like within a region he can control and then brings them to you in their finest state. And then, but it's not just like, remember, you guys remember first of all, way back in the day it was like old Italian or it's a Thai guys Italian oil. I love Italian oil. Don't get don't don't get bent that Mujjo but I love Italian oil, right? But then someone's like, oh, it's Spanish. It's the it's the it's the Nunez de Prado with the with with the one where the olives, the squeezed themselves, and that's the one there and then that got all blown out of proportion. But mix Migaila if I'm correct, is that you're like, Listen, I'm going to just search for what's delicious and interesting. And I'm gonna bottle that as fresh as humanly possible and bring it to you, regardless of what you grew up thinking was the best, right? No one

country has a monopoly on quality, it really comes down to individual producer. And if they're pruning if they've planted the right cultivar and the correct microclimate if they're pruning the trees properly. So all branches receive equal parts, sunlight and oxygen, if they're harvesting the olive at the correct moment to get the desired flavor profile, if they're getting it from tree to mill in mint condition as quickly as possible. And then if the olives are milled by an expert in a clean, modern sanitary mill, and then filtered and stored correctly, and gotten in your hands fresh, then you can get great oil from around the world. But most countries, most of the oil they produce is not good, and falls below the extraversion threshold, despite the fact that so many oils are labeled extraversion because we live in a world of lies.

We do live in a world of lies. This is true. We that is a very good fact. Now, you also will do one more thing before we get to the stupid crap that we have to get to because that's just who we are. Right. When I met you at the French fry movie, yes. We met at Tribeca, Tribeca at the French fry movie a premiere, right. Yeah. Where, you know, I was in a french fry movie. Go look it up. I was there one of their science experts along with Harold McGee, yes. Who you were olive oil tasting, you say with Harold McGee. Just

two weeks ago, I was in I was selected as a judge for the Los Angeles International olive oil competition. And I'd flown out there and we taste you know, upwards of 500 oils with a panel of about 12 olive oil experts. And Harold McGee was one of the judges. It was the first time we had tasted oils together. And he's the one who told me if I'm on this that it's actually going to be videoed, despite the fact that people think it's audio

right there. Yeah, yeah. He has been a trained olive oil taster for probably 1112 years now. He's been like, he took all the original training With the with the Italian folks and then he's been on like all of those panels for years. Yeah. Now let me ask you this since you've never tasted olive oils with them, is there anything better than Harold McGee's thinking tasting face? I love watching the man tasting because he's like, he looks up. And he's got he's thinking and tasting.

Pondering. Yeah, you know, you smell and then you think, first you smell the oil before you taste it. Then you analyze the smell, then you taste it, analyze the taste, and then you analyze the taste and smell in combination. Because that's really important to evaluate an oil

how fast you get fatigued tasting whales like hams, I get fatigued very quickly, like because the salt content fatigues who wicked quick will taste

will taste about 40 to 50 oils in a day. And that'll be between 9am and about 2pm. And

what's the standard palate cleanser? is

sparkling water which scrubs the tongue. small thin slice of green apple. And what's been more modern in the olive oil world is yogurt. Plain Greek Yogurt that helps kind of clean the palate. But you don't necessarily do it after every oil. You do it every whatever.

Greek yogurt do you use? Or is it an eight or a five day

like it's a fire?

It's a fire? Alright,

they use I don't select they Yeah. All right. Yeah. So So where do we start? I mean, this is a massive topic that olive oil isn't even about olive oil, olive oil connects all sorts of things in cultures and history and science and technology in agriculture and politics. Well, we're

tasting keep on tasting for a minute. So like one thing I noticed with olive oil especially olive oil, like that has like a lot of either the grass not the buttery ones so much but the peppery ones and and the ones with the kind of high grassy notes they can taste different from from SIP to sip depending on how you aerate where it hits you I always find that the second sip tastes way different from the first sip. So how do you work around that when you're tasting

I don't find that you know I don't find the second sip taste way different than

maybe it's like maybe it's prime my palate like whenever I go tastes olive oils I just disregard whatever the first step is so disregard it why? I don't know.

I think that's I think you should listen to your initial instincts and not completely disregard what's happening inside of you on a first taste. Almost always like the second set. I think a second I kind of believe in the mandatory second sip as a way to honor the producer that they've like sent it in they've worked all year to make this oil and to taste it only one seems a little silly. So you can kind of like analyze it and taste at once and then taste again as almost a verification but if an oil tastes radically different on two sips that's not good

well I think like like for me like a lot of times I don't know whether maybe I'm blocked up and the first thing I don't get a lot of like the like the like any pepper grass thing comes through a lot more on the second sip for me than it does on the first I don't know what I'm just like choking it down too fast or like not doing the not doing the home the Gila but I feel for me, a to sip switch is the only way I

respect the two sips itch. Alright, I think today I'm going to try to get you on the first sip to taste the grass, the bitter the pepper, the nuance and what we'll get there.

Now what do you think about the old school Italian convention that the more bitter the better? Because that's what they considered the like they

were miss your mischaracterizing an entire country. Oh, it's regional? No. So it tells the

people who used to run the tasting thing for quality, right? Weren't they like phenolic hogs and they wanted like high phenolic high. You know, however you pronounce that? No, it's about

balance. And some oils are too bitter relative to the grassiness or the pepper Enos and that would be an unbalanced oil and that should get scored lower than something where the aroma and the bitterness and the pepper Enos and other secondary aromas are all balanced with each other. Additionally, Italian Well, there's no such thing as Italian oil. It's hyper regional. There's over 500 Different olive cultivars, the olives they grow in Liguria, which due to the microclimate they harvest later are delicate and sweet and mellow. Whereas a Tuscan oil. They have to get the olives off the tree really early in the season because of frost rollin those tend to be on the grassy or bitter peppery side. So it's to judge the Ligurian oil based on that it should some how be bitter and pepper would be like a false it'd be a false relationship. So those oils are beautiful because they're sweet and mellow and like ethereal and when paired with the regional cuisine like pesto allows the pine nuts basil and garlic to take center stage and the oil just supports that.

So you believe that you are a believer, which I am not. You are a believer that that whatever is from locally, why are better with the local stuff? Why

are you telling why are you using your words to say what I

know that I'm supporting you saying the regional support thing That's one. See you don't believe that?

No, I think you can use all different oils for all different foods. Now, I don't think it has to be regional. But I do think the originality is a really interesting way to learn about it. Because of that phrase, like kind of what grows together goes together, especially you believe that you're saying, I believe that. So you do believe that world in today's world, you can mischaracterize say something and believe that and at the same time, you can also believe the exact opposite of that. And both are not actually

remember how we just said that, like Facts are facts at the beginning of the show. Anyway,

it's, it's there are many forces at play here. Okay. Which is true. Okay, I think we want to simplify thing, but it's actually more a little more nuanced than that. And that's what I think we should get into here of how there is no one way to taste this stuff or pair this stuff, but it's whatever kind of piques your interest.

All right, so how am I mischaracterizing you on this next statement? You do not believe in stalking your words. Okay. Paraphrase back to you Sure, sure. From when we were hanging out you, you should not stop different levels of oil for different different things in your house. Like for instance, like I have an oil that I use for saw Tang, and I have an oil that I use for finishing, and I'll be damned if I'm going to pour my expensive oil into a fry pan to saute you told me I was wrong.

I think that's an excellent way to approach cooking or using olive oil for multiple purposes in your home. Use the clean extra virgin olive oil that's more affordable for cooking, and then use the more single state monoculture of our finishing oils just raw so you're okay with you're okay with it. Highly recommended. Alright, so economically advantageous and culinarily perfect.

I see you just doubled your Devil's advocating me before I was saying

that in my situation. I use the same oil to cook with that I finished because you like Mr. Olive oil. And that's why there are many forces at play with all these things. And it's very personal.

Are you selling the are you selling the scrapers? Do you have a body based olive oil lately?

No, but I want I've thought about designing a sickle, like a little one a body? Yeah, you could like so you could cover your body and find olive oil. And because traditionally, olive oil was not used for food. Historically, the original use of olive oil was for skin and people cover their bodies and the oil and the fat and the olive oil lifts the impurities off the skin. And then they would skim it off and they would be clean and they would smell like whatever they infused the oil with. So it was involved in the earliest four forms of perfumery and aromatics and cleanliness. So you

be a millionaire selling it to people for their butts, because they click all this stuff, they douse their bodies with it and then scrape it off. You know, I'm saying what does that say? Can I see? You know, I'm saying Don't worry, you make them you make a zillion dollars doing that. Why don't you do that?

We're developing many products at the moment. I like that.

Okay. Now you also are aware of my hatred of the recorder. And so you tried to bring me a cousin instrument to show me that. It's not because because you blow on a recorder and this is a real, like a real would win stand out would win. What do you call a flute?

The beauty of the flute is it's just wind.

Its wind. So what do you have here?

I brought I figured I was on like a podcast slash radio show. I figured I'd bring something for interludes. So I brought a Indian Bansuri flute that was made by this guy sube ha She was a famous concert band storymaker in India ascribe a band Serie A band serie is a bamboo flute that is carved out in different keys. There are bass flutes, alto flutes, etc.

This is giant though I mean like you know, it's like compared to a Western metal like orchestral flutes.

This is similar size, but it's like thicker. It's thicker. Yeah, they're not the same. This is like Indian classical music uses this with a tabla and your your flying

tablet music Give me some of this

sounds better with reverb.

Anastasia thoughts

what the eff is going

ah. Now this is not that this is not that classification, but this dassia What is Booker and DAX as a corporation. What's our least favorite category of music? The World correct. Now. Yeah, generically world. Like we like music from all over the world. We hate generic world music and you know as soon as it comes on right yeah, I'm not saying you're doing that. You're playing that.

Yeah, like playing a flute. World.

No one's saying that. No one's saying that. Not one person who said that. Alright.

But yes, this instrument can be found in the world. In India. It looks

it's very nice. It looks like it looks nicely made, it looks a lot better. You know what it looks like? It looks like a really, you know that really when you go okay for those of you that never like been to the United States when you were a small child, one of the things that happens to you is your drug around to like all these like bullies back in the 70s. You're driving around to all these kind of like patriots slash Revolutionary War sites. And they would everyone would sell you like yellow brown burnt up copies of the direct Declaration of Independence and in a plastic tube and the Constitution in a tube and a really crappy three corner hat that was like made by the same people that make the Mickey Mouse hats and an unworkable Fife. And onward it looks like a much nicer version of the unworkable. Five. So it kind of triggers me a little bit because not one kid has ever made a decent note out of the unworkable.

This thing has triggered you deeply. Did you struggle with a recorder when you were a young child on class publicly,

I wouldn't say I struggled. I instantly over blew that thing and was like, Nah, no. Yeah,

no wires. It's about a delicate control.

That is not me. Yeah, I'm not known for my delicate control. So something that a sounds bad even in the best hands be is so easy to overblow and see drip spit everywhere. These are all losses. These are all losses.

What's your instrument of choice? Well, I

play bass card played bass.

What a sultry instrument.

You know what it was? I can understand four strings. Every single one is the same interval apart. And it's not like a guitar

where you don't get a B string. Yeah. Is it the hell is that? It's really screws things up. Yeah, who

the hell wants that? I don't play chords. I play bass. Yeah. And I also dislike guitarists, who pick up bases and are like, I'm going to play it like it's a guitar solo. Wrong. It's a bass. The bass

though. I'm a big fan of Jaco Pastorius, and he would like he would transcribe Bach pieces. And so he would learn the different voicings of Bach. And I do think it's important as a basis to understand how to play the other melodic passages in a song to see how your baseline can fit within that in terms of counterpoint.

All right, what about James Jamison playing with one finger passed out drunk on his back in the Motown basement some of the best songs ever the best of the best? Yeah. What would they call his fingers something like the claw or some they call it his his one fancy his one

because those guys right away with one finger, you know, three finger thing that les Claypool and fle are doing and they were not doing that

last clip will is a great basis if only he would remember what a melody is like he was amazing during fizzle fry like like Primus. Oh my god. Yeah. Oh my God and live they were so they were so awesome. But I you know, and I love les Claypool. And I don't want to insult any Primus current print like Primus people. Those guys crawled into their own bubbles a little bit. Cool.

Yeah. Once once. What was it? Tales from the Punchbowl came out it it was downhill from there.

But like amazing. I would agree. Amazing, amazing bass, amazing bass. So one other thing, I don't know when we're going to do it, Joe, but you're here on a very auspicious day. And, Nick, you know why? I have no idea. Because today is the first day of the cooking issues the sponsor should we have we have our first actual sponsor, now that we've moved radio stations, we've only networks from the other station, who shall remain nameless to newstand studios. And we have our first sponsor, and we're going to play an ad. So how's this going to work? Joe? How are we gonna do this when you want to do it? Like when do you want to do it? How do you other people do it? They do what time during the show? Do they do it?

They set it up usually like hey, we

here's a word from our sponsor. Oh.

It's mid roll. It's mid roll. So it should happen maybe now. Okay. And now a word from our sponsor right back with cooking issues. This episode of Cooking issues brought to you by ora king salmon our favorite fish. Today we have Michael Fabbro from or a king to tell us more about it.

Thanks, Dave. Great to be here. And really excited to talk about ora king salmon, which we raised down in New Zealand. It's a super premium salmon that's available to professional chefs and home chefs alike.

So I mean, from a zero waste perspective, Michael, I see that you're now using the fins for dog treats.

That's right. Yeah, this is part of a real goal we established a couple of years ago about full utilization of the animal. You know, in New Zealand, we cut filets, we cut portions, we do smoking, so you have a lot of trim. So we wanted to find a good home for that trim. So we developed the line of pet treats. We also do oil as well. And we sell these under our brand called omega plus,

or king salmon. Follow them on Instagram at aura king salmon. Everybody's favorite fish. And we're back. By the way, your dog actually tried those trees Joe, how are they? The dog enjoy them.

She loved them. She she had them slip this morning, and you gotta cut them up, you know for a small pup so she didn't know what to do with the actual scales or the actual the actual fins itself. But she did eat the meat. Yeah, yeah. Yeah.

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to join or a king salmon legitimately delicious. And if you're in if you're in New York City, you can get they are the New Zealand king salmon that is at russon daughter. So if you've been to Russ and daughters and had the New Zealand King that's working, just just a little FYI. All right, back to back to oil. So are we still talking about fights and music, we're back on oil, right? We

should get back on oil because music is pointless to talk about because it does its own talking. Now you

hate talking in music, I'm just

about to talk about olive oil. That's a little more mysterious, and I don't think it has the voice that it deserves. Olive oil is fundamental and primordial to Western civilization. And yet we ignore it. Like we often ignore salt. And we often ignore honey. And those three things if you have those in your kitchen, you can do so much. And so

if you also have flour, I'm just kidding. I'm just I'm just effing about. Alright, so before we start talking about let's talk about some terms so people get an idea in their head what's going on? Sure. So do you want to talk defects or you want to talk about like,

like no first I want to talk about what olive oil is because it's incorrectly positioned in the supermarket where it's next to all the seed oils like canola oil and vegetable oil and corn oil, etc. But the olive is a stone fruit related to the peach and the cherry on the plum. And in a way olive oil is a fresh fruit juice and really belongs in the produce section of grocery stores.

So you want it next to the avocado oil messing with you again, maybe

that will be more accurate than next to like seed oils where they have to add heat and chemical solvents to extract the oil

but they also do that too bad although they do.

But good high quality extra virgin olive oil must be from raw fruit. And then you get into this whole defect world. A couple of things about the olive I want to say before we start the olive is inedible off the tree. You can't eat all the olives you eat have been cured to leech out this bitter accurate, something's called glycosides. I've tried to it sucks, it's disgusting, and you will spit it out. And so there's a lot of people out there who don't like olives because they're cured, but they love olive oil. And that makes perfect sense because it really fundamentally different products, the olive oil, you take directly from the tree and immediately millet into olive oil ideally. So it really is a raw fruit is nonsense. Secondly, the olive tree never dies. From the pollens that grow from the roots, they can regenerate themselves. And that's why olive trees are many 1000s of years old in certain parts of the world, and they can still produce fruit and you can still make oil from them. That said the age of tree has nothing to do with the quality of the oil. People who say Oh, our trees are 800 years old. So the oil is better than a 50 year old tree is

a certain amount of age, right? You need a certain amount of age for it to bear well, right olive trees get to full bearing capacity between 15 and 30 years. All right, so that that's the magic number 15 to 30 years, what is that

about the architectural structure of the tree and the health of the tree. So you can have old trees that are not pruned well, that are receiving benefits of oxygen and sunlight and get really bad oil. So never let someone tell you that the age of the tree is the key indicator of the quality of the fruit because unlike the vine, which grows deep and gets nutrients from different layers of bedrock, the olive tree the roots are only a few feet underground. So it doesn't matter how old it is. It's not getting different nutrients.

So talk to me. What does the what does the farming practices pre harvest in terms of how its prune how does that affect the flavor of the oil.

The key determining factor of the flavor of the oil will be the olive cultivar used and the timing of the harvest. So all olives start their life green and they ripen to a deep purplish black and the color of reflects the stage of maturation. The earlier you harvest the olives when they're primarily that yellowish green. The less oil is going to be in the fruit but it's going to be more grassy bitter pepper Being pungent, The later you harvest the fruit when they're more that dark purple color, the more delicate sweet and ethereal the oil is going to be. And there's one is not inherently better than the other. But it depends on what flavor profile you like. And what you want to pair it with

is one more likely to have problems the like, I would guess that later it's harvested, the more likely you are to have more problems

with on the tree more problems with it in terms of the because you're getting the oil later in its life in the fruit, the shelf life of that oil will be shorter than if you harvest that same olive a few weeks earlier.

So it's not the protective like the polyphenols and all of this in the oil that's keeping it lasts longer. It's the fact that there's also less garbage in or both both. Now how do they harvest these things? So they just put tarps around? How do they shake them? What do they do,

there's different ways some can literally hand harvest. And that's one of the reasons why you prune the trees to keep them at a at a height that you can manage the harvest. And they'll just use it with their fingers and put it into baskets. Other people put nets down and they use combs to comb the olives off the tree. And then other people use shakers that grab the trunk of the tree and shake it and that falls off. And there's another method called super high density production where you can take a certain a few olive cultivars like the arbequina, the coronet key and the herb osanna, which are dorable. And you can plant them in hedgerows and prune them very close to the central trunk. So a machine can go over the hedgerows and harvest them at an ideal moment of ripeness. But can you get good? Well that way? You can because you can get it up the right. You can harvest it at the right time. But you don't have the diversity of flavor profiles, because there's only like three cultivars that aren't Warfel like

that. And so people are working on four stocks for a bunch of things now or they're not

no. And it's debate. I mean, it's economically advantageous to harvest that way because one of the reasons in oil will be really expensive is the way it's harvested or the landscape is harvested out. So like in Tuscany, for example, where they have all these terrace landscapes, they can't even modernize and and use these machines to do because they don't fit on these ledges. So there's all these different price points you get. And it's depending on the cultivation and the and the cultivars you use and how it's harvested

typically. And so a and I don't know that much about like olives as opposed to like apples, the people growing olives on their own rootstocks or the growing them on it or they grafted like an app update.

Typically, there are nurseries that grow them up to about four years and then you'll buy from a nursery and plant a four year old tree in your Grove and that that's going to take better to it. Because we planted by seed, if there's weather issues, it could hurt

but the roots of the same variety as the tree itself.

You can graft centrally you can create Frankenstein trees where you can graft a different cultivar onto a tree and from that point forward, it will be the new cultivar

right right because almost nobody grows apples on the on their own roots. Okay, yeah, you know what I mean? But in olives, you can do it either way. Either

way. It's very flexible. And then some cultivars are self pollinating and other cultivars require a pollinator mean like a like a like a partner, olive Exactly. So like there'll be a producer as like, every 20 rows of frantoio. He plants he'll plant one row of Pendolino. And so it's like that blend is technically a monoculture of our French oil, but really 5% of that is Pendolino and that's the pollinator that at a certain time of the year when there's wind and stuff, it pollinates all the flowers so you get a lot of fruit.

So how many pounds of olives does it take to make a bottle of the kind of work depends

on the cultivar Alright, so some olives can have upwards of 20% oil in them some cultivars have 6% oil in them. In that sense some ologies for the table will always have very low oil are typically used for the table because the yield would be so little, but some people produce oil out of those to have like hyper rare cultivars like the GR Rafa olive and Sicily is like typically a table all of but there's one producer manager Nova and Agrigento will turn that into oil and have like a really rare boutique oil from that.

So olives like Kalamata are the exception rather than a norm they're used for both table and oil.

Column out is not typically used for oil it's mainly the coronet key and grease that's used for oil.

I was only a friend of mine used to make Hamato Anyway, do you like that as a to pedestrian for you that column? Do you like eating olives? Or do you only like olive oil?

I like eating all those but I don't eat olives three times a day and I do use olive oil for three meals a day. But I think the olive was a little more malleable than the olive

wood most oil olives make a nice high fat table olive if they were cured or not.

I don't know I have not tasted table olives of so many cultivars because they're really reserved for oil. I just don't know. All right. So

you want to start you want to taste them all you want to like actually pull some oils out and taste and talk about how to taste these oils and what we should be looking at.

Yeah, so first of all, I want to say my company. What I do is I chase the harvest northern and southern hemisphere freshness is a key component to quality and Any good legitimate bottle of olive oil should have a harvest date on it. If there's no harvest date or a bottle and only a best before date or an expiration date, that sends a bunch of red flags to me. Secondly, you want to know the olive cultivars that are in the oil. If it just says extra virgin olive oil product of Italy, you don't know what olives are in, it'd be like buying a wine that just has red one.

I do that constantly. No, you don't.

And so you want to look at the Olive cultivars. And then you want to know the producer. You don't want it just from a general country because so long as the oil is bottled and shipped out of Italy, it can say it's packed in Italy, but a lot of times those all come from Spain, Tunisia is still doing that they're still doing that. So a lot of olives that a lot of oils that have Italian sounding names, if you actually look on the back the olives from all different countries, they buy them, ship them to Italy, bottle it and ship it to North America, because we're the third largest consumer of olive oil in the world, but we don't have an olive culture. And we're like the dumping ground for a lot of unwanted whales throughout the Mediterranean or the

island, Mr. Doyle's if you

want to call that you can call it that.

Okay, by the way, can anyone who can grow olive trees make a good olive if they pay attention to what wants to grow there? Or is it really that some places can produce better Allah wills and others?

The weather is such a huge factor. And so you want to be in a place that has the right exposure, for example, like hillsides are really good, because you want the water to rush rapidly into the valley because the olive tree if it gets too wet, it's really bad for the fruit you want it to have to reach for nutrients and reach for water and they thrive in these dry arid environments. So one of the common things people do who are trying to grow out for the first time is they overwater them. And if you overwater it, it'll look like it's dehydrated because it's clogged up and it's not getting to the leaves and the leaves look dry. But it's actually because you're over watering. So there's all these problems people have but it really it really comes down to it's like a Kido not boxing. You want to work with nature. Because if you've planted something incorrectly and you're fighting nature, there's nothing you can do you hating on boxers now. All right. No, I'm trying to work with things I think working. Working with other things is like a it's like a hack.

He is working with the weather. Now now with it with the global warming. It's warm enough again to grow wine in England in Kent. And for Queen Elizabeth 70th Her Jubilee is released an English sparkling wine which you can get on like the Queen's website. They're out of stock right now and they don't ship to the US. But it's an actual English sparkling wine. No one's given it

a taste review. The world is changing rapidly and

she knows she's also releasing a ketchup.

I don't believe that.

It is a true fact. And she's also put a she wants her 70th anniversary prize winning putting there's a contest for making the best pudding that's going to be labeled under her moniker. Yeah, she's gone into food

beverages getting in the food business.

95 she gets in the food business. She's a billionaire, and she's 95 And why should you have to make ketchup

because food is maybe the only thing that really matters. All right.

All right. What are we tasting? So we're gonna use totally the Queen's ketchup?

I'm not a ketchup guy.

What? Me neither. What Yep.

And in that genre of condiments. I'm more a mayo guy. I like really well made Mayo is a really special luxurious thing.

Mayo is the universal solvent like mayo. You need mayo. Mayo is a way to solidify oil. Do you have any tricks for not having olive oil go better and when you make a man has no.

Okay, you can use a more delicate mellow oil that has hints of almond and sweetness to it that's not so grassy bitter and peppery. Alright, but I am not a mayo specialist by any accounts.

I love mail. I love a mail seer. I love mail. And man it's great love mail on a Friday, but I also like ketchup. You know why? Because ketchup is good.

Good on onion rings.

On a bacon egg and cheese salt pepper ketchup is really a fundamental

bacon egg and cheese shepherd boy, listen, so you can have onion rings went to Super Duper Weenie, John.

Oh, finally. Yeah.

It was really really good. Dax hat. No, it was really good. It was good. I only had one. I wasn't expecting. I wanted to kind of the whole I had the New Englander, which is split with the bacon. So that reminds me of the way we used to have him in New Haven at the Yankee Doodle back when the Yankee Doodle was a thing. But and it was it was really good. But like DAX had this some sort of chili dog variant. We had two of them. But we had the onion rings I thought was quite good. It's not a regular weenie. Nicholas it's a Super Duper Weenie. Superduper I respect that. Yeah. All right. What do we what do we have here was John's we're gonna

taste to John's. What? No, I didn't know there was all these people. Okay, well, once. No, we're tasting one at a time. All right. Dave, this is not complicated. Don't taste it.

Yeah. You just said it was not complicated.

I think you have made Yeah. Okay, so the first thing we want to do, Dave, you're gonna need that bag in your hand here. Okay? Is. So first of all these are in dark blue glasses, you can see this on the screen. Color has no bearing on quality. A lot of people think the greener oil the better or the grassy or the more vibrant or whatnot.

But it does have to do with when it's harvest and it might add some character you know, acid, right? You'd say earlier that the

color, I'm telling you now finally, and and definitively is indicative of the oil is not an indicator of the flavor profile or the quality. Okay, some really bad oils will add chlorophyll to the oil so it looks greener, never judgmental about the color. And that's why we taste out of these dark blue glasses because you don't want that color to have any psychological impact of the smell and taste of that. So at your events, you do amount of the cobalt, like in professional Los Angeles, like in the New York competition, the Los Angeles competition, it's always out of dark glasses, you're never seeing the color.

Sweet. Alright, good to know because I would have not thought that based on the ripening and what we were talking about earlier, so it's good that we that's the color

of fruit that does not correlate to color of oil, because all olive start at green and red, blue, dark purplish black, but different cultivars will have different hues to them for a variety of

so you can have a late harvest oil as green as a day as long even without chlorophyll

you could have a later harvest Cortino oil from Southern Italy that will be more grassy, bitter and peppery than an early harvest to just oil from Liguria. So it's cultural. It's it's like I was saying before, like there are many forces at play with anything that's interesting. And to say any one definitive thing can be a little silly. That said, I will definitively say that the color of the oil has no bearing on the quality. All right, so whenever you taste you want to put in the palm of your hand and couple with the other hand and swirl the oil. And the bottom palm warms the oil while the top palm traps the aromas. And after about 20 to 30 seconds, the oil should be warm enough where the volatile aromas begin to lift off of it. And then the first thing we're going to do is just smell it.

Have you done this with Anastasia? Yes, really? Yeah, she could tolerate what I'm doing right now.

You kind of warm up man. Okay.

And Stassi What do you think of this process?

I respect what Nick does.

This is not what I am. This is this is this is supposed to be leisurely and relaxing. And when you taste oils, it's a time to slow down and focus on yourself because the actions happening inside of you.

These are all things I can't do.

Smell let's smell some oil. I get freshly cut grass and herbs. You get that

at all. Yes, kind of like a like a hexanol hit like like a grassy go for the hex yeah go for always go for the hex. I love the smell of grass being cut. Yeah,

it's a childhood. Love all of us.

I like when you don't pick up the grass from before and it also hits a little bit of the hay and you get hay plus grass green plus brown.

So it's clean. You notice it's not waxy, it's not crisp. It doesn't smell a crayons which a lot of supermarket oils will smell like crayons it's not whiny or vinegary. Which is another thing that's called a defect and also it doesn't smell a cure table olives that's first that's your boy right oils that smell it cured a cure table olives have a defect in it called fustian It means the olives underwent anaerobic fermentation before they were pressed. None of that is in this and that meat is all signs of quality and cleanliness of the fruit where's this from? You don't want to tell me? No of course we telegraph everything about every producer on every bottle we released like you want to tell me before we go what what are we what are we tasting this is from to show Italy, which is a small pocket nestled in between the southeastern part of Tuscany the southwestern part of Umbria and the northeastern part of Latino and it's this little area called Tisha and this is by a producer called OLIO Tamia, who is owned by this man named Pietro ray in the small grove and this is a blend of his frantoio and Latino olives. Those are typical olives of central now when you taste you want to do this method called strip Poggio where you take a sip of the oil and then you aerate it multiple times to create to open up the oil. So you receive all aspects of the flavor profile before swallowing.

Oh trigger alert, trigger alert mouth noises to come and this is probably why your first sip tastes the same as your second sip

I feel like we're watching blue planet with David Attenborough or something your main leg it's

then I stopped and then I swallow. grassy herbaceous with balanced bitterness supremely clean hint of arugula and rocket with a delayed elongated peppery finish and what causes that peppery finish with Many people think there's something wrong with oil and the tasty is oleocanthal which is a natural antioxidant and poly phenyl found in the oil and the more that peppery burn you feel that lingers, the higher levels of oleocanthal is in the oil,

you differentiate between arugula and rocket, they're similar and it just been a bit of green that they walk me through this again I'm gonna do it and then a hand to John have him do it. Sure. Walk me through it.

You want to put it in here a little bit in your mouth almost like it's scalding really hot soup, you know when you sip and then I use my teeth to create remember Menaka Yes, it's this like air ration and aerosol and you want to aerate it in the mouth multiple times to unlock and open up the oil so you get all the new What is it

like but the sucking in? Is it Hannibal Lecter is it or is it like everyone has their own style? Okay,

what's your style Dave

and someone's living with some fava beans? I don't know I gotta definitely think about Lecter now. I was gonna try this people trigger noise that's not me making that when he's trained trained um,

good oils should linger and have secondary aromas and you should be able to taste an oil for a good oil you should be able to taste for like 20 minutes. After you taste it.

You don't notice about me but as soon as you say the word linger now I can only think about the cranberries. I just had the cranberries going through my head and nothing else. You're a music freak. Well, the cranberries they were great.

Clean, herbaceous, bitter, balanced bitterness and a delayed elongated peppery sensation. Fine. You can do it or not. I just did it.

I did away from like, oh, make me trigger people but not what a guy.

And this is like this flavor profile. This kind of grassy bitter peppery is very typical oils from Central Ithilien in Tuscany and Umbria and northeast lots to where they mainly go grow the frantoio Memorial and Luchino olives and they have to harvest the olives early because of frost can roll in and damage the fruit. So you have to get them off the tree and into oil. Usually they harvest in that area around like October 20 or so but it depends on the weather, whereas in Sicily they can harvest in late September, whereas in Liguria they start harvest in November yeah I

used to buy I'm still do buy a lot of Sicilian oil like like Notre Lara and my trump for liking that stuff.

I love great clean, fresh Sicilian oil. There's no HLR oil. You're fine Cora Tina you can find Bianca Lila Chera, swala Giraffa Mariska and the very rare cultivar, the tondi blaeu from the southeast region of Sicily, Tondo coming from the word rotunda, meaning round, and EBE Leah from the bland mountains where it's grown

sweet. By the way, he says before, I'm going to highlight it, because this is the reason I was super excited to have you on you were the first person I know to kind of, as you say, chase the freshness. So it's not just a once a year thing, when the fresh Royals come in for you, it's at least twice a year and more because the season, it's like, you were telling me the harvest is depending on where you are in in the northern or southern hemisphere, several months off difference, right. And so you have probably four or five different harvest months a year, right that you can deal with.

But typically, it's there's two harvests a year, there's the northern hemisphere harvest, which happens in really October, November. And then there's the southern hemisphere harvest, which happens in you know, New Zealand, Australia, Chile, Argentina, South Africa, etc. And that happens in like, late April, May, and maybe the beginning of June. So you have almost four months. So you can chase the harvest northern southern hemisphere and get fresh oil every six months, which is the, for me, that was the only way to build a business around olive oil to have really the freshest oil at any given moment.

You're the only person I know who does that, because you're not locked into a region. You're just locked into finding the oil you like I have

the greatest breath of freedom to go where the weather's good, and the harvest is good. And that has been like, such a blessing for me. Because due to climate change, you'll have a good year somewhere in the next year, there can be no literally no olive cities, like

make friends with someone and then you show up the next year. You're like, Oh, dude, you're all suck this year. Sorry, bye.

No, they. I have a lot of relationships with a lot of producers that I've built over a decade. And they're very transparent with me because they every producer in the world wants their oil sold in North America, specifically in New York City. And they know that we only select oils of a certain caliber and we've had producers like this year, we're not going to be able to even offer you have an option because they want their oil to be outstanding for that North American market. And we airship the oil and so like this oil that we just tasted was bottled stateside. had on November 18, and sold to the public on December 1. That's like highly rare

to how much has it changed in the intervening two and a half, three months?

It's mellowed out. Because a lot, not a lot. But you'll see in like one year's time, this thing will be a very different product.

But so like, part of the change is interesting and fun like, like an old fashioned cocktail. And then it gets to a point where it's not fun anymore, right? So how long is the window of fun in change of a good level depends

on the cultivar and when it was harvested. So if you harvest that quarantine Oh of really early, which has high levels of antioxidants and polyphenols and that oil, I've had oil two years out, that still tastes super fresh. But arbequina oil harvested and middle season, nine months out, it's already lost his legs and his kind of flabby. So it depends on the cultivar It depends if it's filtered or not. A lot of people think unfilter oils better. Not true. You want to filter out the micro and macroscopic all particles and sediment in the oil because what they do is they settle on the bottom, and there's water in that and that escapes and it goes it gives off taste in the oil called muddy sediment. So the best producers in the world filter their olive oil, they also don't cold press their olives, they cold extract them. The cold pressed method where the olives are crushed by stones and stacked on fiscally into what looks like a 100 layer lasagna and pressed is an outdated method. And the problem is the olive paste oxidizes during that time, and those mats aren't always cleaning, you can get unwanted residue on them. Whereas the cold extraction method, the olives run through a series of vacuums and centrifuges, where they're separated by the density of the oil, the water and the solids. And you can harvest those faster, it's more sanitary, it's, it's and you can get sharper oil from more ripe fruit. So a lot of the best producers called extract the oil, and they filter it before releasing it to the public. So

I'm going to ask you a question while you're pointing to second because I don't want to run out of time. Because I had to also do some question questions, which you're obviously supposed to chime in on as well. What are your thoughts on enzymes to liberate more olive oil from the from the paste

90 of your folks use ideally, you don't have to do that if you plant the right cultivar and harvest at the right time. You don't have to do that some people will add water to the pace to help the during the Malik's ation process break this to help break it apart. And we'll use like cold water to do that. So I've seen that done with great results. But the enzymes it's not like yeah,

one of the main uses of the enzyme that I use constantly pectin X Ultra SPL and ultra X XL is probably in the secondary extraction after they get the first oil that you're using out they hit hit it with a bunch of enzymes to just completely wipe out the the fruit so that everything's liberated out from it and they just, you know, give. Yeah,

that would be like a totally different product than extra virgin olive oil.

So what am I what am i Oh, oh, sorry. Sorry. Geez, man, Dave, for those of you that can't see I'm doing the swirly Daryle Well, now you are you are about to just chugging. I was about to chug it. Because again,

so check this out. Now we're in Spain. We're in the Toledo, the area of Toledo outside of Madrid. And this is a producer named Garcia Dela Cruz and this is an early harvest mono cultivar P qual oil, and P qual. It's interesting. Traditionally, the Spanish cultivars historically was harvested very late because they wanted the quantity. It's amazing how like olive oil is one of the foods that's getting much higher quality in the last couple decades where so many other foods are becoming like more and more tasteless. Typically, historically, they would harvest this really late and it would get this smell called PP de gato, which is just like cat piss aroma and this was known for and then they start harvesting really early and they started noticing that early harvest pico olives have a distinct aroma of green tomato leaf. Whoo I love green tomato leaf smell this right now.

You don't like happy though? Not a happy man.

Not in my food.

Yeah, I get that. Yeah, and I love I've distilled tomato leaves because I love them so much. Not poisonous, by the way. It's it's a myth, at least not in small quantities.

That is a really special aroma.

So, before before

so clean.

PPT got to now you know I've never been to either Toledo Spain or Toledo Ohio. Have you been to both?

No. But I've been to Toledo Spain. So now let's flip

this hold on. It's real burning in my mind.

I have very peppery not so bitter. It's

in my throat. That's the last one. I don't know how to do this job. Can you put your head down when you do that? So it doesn't go down your windpipe. How do you do that without sucking it into your windpipe.

I love I love how I love how nonplussed Nick is he just keeps on going. So good.

The note, you aerate it multiple times, and then you stop and then you swallow. I think you're like, Dave, I think you have mania, you're inhaling and swallowing simultaneously, which is just, of course, you're gonna choke yourself. You're choking yourself.

I liked that oil a lot. I wish it wasn't in my lungs. So

different kinds of mouth noise on mic right there.

So there's just two oils, both harvested in October 2021. One of them's an Action Bronson collaboration we do, which is really interesting thing that we keep developing, and we're getting oil into a market that would otherwise never have never really know I think about fresh, high quality olive oil. So he's on tour right now on his NBA ba leather tour. And it's a US tour and they're selling the oil after shows. Oh, nice. And it's just amazing to see at a rap concert at the merch table with the vinyl and the hoodies to see like world class all of it being sold and people loving it.

Is he doing Italian or Spanish? Which one's the Bronson the Italian at the moment? Now, how hardcore was that Spanish out of will like three months ago,

it was that much more alive. And dynamic is pretty alive

and dynamic now so it says my lungs. I think that's delicious. I would eat the hell out of that.

It's great. And it's super versatile in cuisine.

Yeah, but I would just pour the heck out of on some bread. Meat is that bad?

No, it's great. Highly recommended. All right. Do you have any questions I want to I want to help anyone under DIY I haven't mystified

this channel are we in a discord we got anything to

discord, nothing right now, but what's the best so you know, if I buy one of these bottles and you know, pay the price that these are worth what's the best way to store these to ensure that the flavor is stay as great as possible, you

want to open it soon. All of which should be thought of like a fresh beer, it's a race to the bottom of the bottle. So you want to open it soon after you get it and you want to use it quickly. When I open a bottle. Ideally, I want to use it within three months. That would really be as long as I like to go but for me in my home, I opened a bottle and it's gone in a week.

I've never had an aged beer I've loved I've never had like a really really old barley wine freshness

is a key component to the enjoyment of and it's a real waste of money to buy a nice bottle of olive oil. And then keep in your cabinet for a year and a half and only use it sparingly. It's meant to be like you're meant to dose your food in oil and drag your food through puddles of oil before it goes into your mouth. What about light and heat? light and heat both damages the enemies of all of our light heat oxygen and time. I think sunlight will burn through your oil super fast and destroy it. Probably the quickest. And so you that's why all our bottles are in dark glass.

You do wine bladders for restaurants.

We do five liter containers for restaurants. We supply about 40 restaurants in New York City, including right next door Lodi? Yeah, like right next door to the studio we see

not named after the apple strangely.

The New Jersey town.

Oh, wow. Which is not where the apples from misplaced enthusiasm says you might enjoy this, Nick. Hey, what are those color things on poultry legs called and why? Well in French, John, they are a machette. Which was that a little little glove?

Mailshots? Yeah. Like a little sleeve here from Marshalls a sleeve? Yeah.

And it's just there so your hands don't get in filth. And because back in the day, you know, it's not like today where it's like you grab a hold of something and you just like fist it while you carve it. It's like you know, you had to show up at the table. You had to touch it. Yeah, did boo boo. And it's a way to not be touching the food with your hands while you're while you're doing your data presentation thing. It's just for show. You know, well, not just for shows to keep your hands clean. Do you like the little frilly things? They're old though they've been around for hundreds of years but little frilly things. Okay, so have you ever watched a cartoon of a turkey coming out of an oven and then when it comes to table it's got little like Chef hats that are cut up? Yes. Yeah, those we have a caller caller you're on the air.

Hey, how's it going? Josh from Norfolk here. I've got a non olive oil related question. Discussion on oil has all been really interesting. So thanks for that. I want to do Wales but prepared sort of in the style of wings. I'm considering like spatchcocking them and then Brian them fall and tossing them I've certainly got some advice on best practice to do that.

Okay. Here's what you want to do. First of all, I need to know when you say in the manner of wings do you mean from a size standpoint or from a crispy standpoint? How boneless Do you want them because like what you know you can totally Inside Out bone a quail it is a Besides nach to do it, but you can Inside Out bone a quail so that all that's left to the little leg bones and you can hold on to it and then the whole quail becomes boneless. So it all depends on what you want to do, you can spatchcock it and then rip out the big bones if you do do that, please roast off those bones and use them to reinforce another poultry stock. So that you have that coil stock which you're gonna thank me for later. What I would do is I would low temp the coils you know at get the sticky bones out so they don't go through the bag you can even zip lock it if you don't have that and then I would do it somewhere in the area between 55 and 57. Just to get it up for like I would do it like 45 minutes or something like this. Because you know, quails pretty tender as is except for the legs, you're not going to do it long enough to comfy the legs up because nobody does that. And then I would cool it all the way down and then fry it. We use I used to do that where I would Inside Out bonnet leave it whole low temp cook it then get this I would put a 3062 degrees soft poached egg inside the quail. Then batter the whole quail and deep fry it and then you'd hold it by the legs and go plow and the egg would just go all over the fried outside of the and that's a Julius thing. I like saucing the bird with the egg you Yeah, saucing? The bear with the egg yolk is a thing. Yeah. But the hard part is shimmying the egg into the into the coils. But before you

just want to mention the frying component because you mentioned wanting to fry it. You can fry an extra virgin olive oil, the small point of extra extra virgin olive oil is 400 degrees Fahrenheit. And you can fry a lot of things around 353 and a 65 degrees Fahrenheit

also. Also yet no one actually brings that this is a good point. Everyone talks about the smoke oil stop paying attention to the smoke will stimulate smoke point stop paying attention to it. If you're heating an oil high enough to hit those kinds of smoke points. You have another problem and also like a lot of oils that the like smoke point is listed. But it's not usually the relevant phenomenon. Most of the off tastes in frying don't come because of smoke point. It comes because of the particular Like for instance, canola oil has lino lino Lee Nick, not little lake Linnell Lee Nick acid in it, which is a trash can garbage, rancid fish smell and it breaks down and causes that enrollment while you're cooking. So it's like please, anytime someone tells you what the first thing you need to worry about as a smoke point in a frying recipe, just it's not true. It's just not the case. I mean, it's if you're gonna abuse the hell out of your oil, then you need something with a high smoke point because you're gonna abuse the hell out of it. But unless you're going to be abused to death, smoke points, not the primary. In my opinion,

I love like when I make eggplant parm, like for me that eggplant must be fried and extra virgin olive oil. I don't see what the alternative is to give you an authentic a glamper

Ah, all right, so Patreon people. I'm gonna give you your time next week. I'm gonna get to the questions I didn't get to. So good to have Nicholas Coleman from Grove and Vine given what's your website,

www dot Provan vine.com Shea stat

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