Cooking Issues Transcript

Matt Sartwell of Kitchen Arts & Letters


Hello and welcome to cookie issues. This is Dave, another host of cooking videos coming to you live from Newsday studios in Rockefeller Center. joined as usual witness Tassia hammer Lopez, how you doing Anastasia, and yet you're getting a good colon all of your quit well if you're listening live because you're a Patreon subscriber calling your questions 2917410 1507. That's 917-410-1507 joined as usual with our dueling engineers we got Joe hazing here, here at Rock Center. How you doing, Joe? I'm doing great. How are you? Alright, and we got Jackie Inslee, Jackie molecules over there in the California booth. What's up?

It's hot here. I'm doing great, though. Yeah, got that.

I feel so bad for you. I'm in LA with all the nice plants and trees around me.

I just got a portable air conditioner today though, so life will get better. I don't

know if you know this. They do make your life better. Intensely inefficient. They're intensely inefficient. Yeah, it's basically like, No, you're spending I guess a little less money now. But you're burning money and throwing it out the window in terms of your electric bill. Unless you're not paying electric if it's all like folded into your Airbnb then portable way. You know what I mean? So yeah, all right. So we got Anastasia manning the phone should anything come in? Jack you're gonna man any new Patreon and or what to call the live chat room questions. But yeah, and hopefully we get some good ones. Because today in studio, and this is this is our first studio guest like, like not part of the cooking issues team guest. Here is it. Anyway. We have with us today. friend of the show. Matt sartwell. From kitchen Arts and Letters. Everybody who knows anything's favorite. Bookstore. How're you doing?

I'm doing well. Thank you for having me. Yeah.

So that when last we had you on the show, you've been on I think twice, twice before the show. So I think the first time was when you guys were doing your your GoFundMe, right, which was successful.

It was it was a huge success. We

were stunned. Yeah. Well, it's because people love you guys.

Well, thank you, I people really demonstrated that they put their money where their heart is.

So for those of us who are new listeners, you want to just, I mean, do you want to give the pitch for the store? Should I give you the pitch for this store, so you don't have to give it yourself. I'd love to hear your pitch for the store. So my pitch for the store. And I've told I told this last time, so apologize for those who've listened before, but I found kitchen arts and letters because at the very beginning of when you could search for everything on the internet, this is prior to well, you'll know when it was because it was never when the bread builders book came out. Alright, so what was that like? 98

might that might even be a little earlier than that. Yeah, well, I

think I was looking for it in like 1998 and bread builders was at the time like the book like there was no other book like it at the time. It's still pretty important. And we've talked about it on air. Great book. I think one of them died. Right.

Alan wing. Yeah. That's time I'm getting that wrong. But yeah, one of them

the builder. Yeah. So it's a builder in a bread person. And one of the one of them was a former bio Chem guy, right. And he was it's an amazing book. And it was all about it. It was before the was before the amazing bread resurgence back when the only person who was make no offense to everybody, but the person who was making the decent bread there was there was basically Jim winning when he was still at Sullivan street like way downtown, and a couple other people making decent bread but it wasn't like wasn't like today?

No, there was nothing like the the frequency with which you're gonna find great bread.

Yeah. And I had found on the street, an old like 1930s oven with no thermostats in it. And I've brought it up to my illegal loft. I plugged it into the gas line and filled the sucker with bricks and then started using it fundamentally as a retain heat masonry oven fired by gas in the middle of my apartment in New York City, and needed some guidance on making bread. And I don't know how this book came to my attention. But this is, like I say early, like when Amazon was just selling books. It was Amazon was just a bookseller at the time, before they had done what they did to us and many other small businesses. So yeah, yeah. Which we won't get into. We're not anti Amazon anymore for for this moment, simply because they're now selling the Sears all again. So it's kind of like, you know, we're back in that abusive relationship with them. Anyway. So I digress. So I find this book on Amazon, the bread builders, and I'm like, I don't have the money to buy it. Let's find an expensive book, but I had no money. No zero. So I was like, I don't have the money to buy this unless I know it's going to be good like the way I used to be with with records you wouldn't buy Record unless you can hear it beforehand. Because if the record is bad, and you spent the money,

right, and the records were a lot of money, yeah, yeah. Especially if you didn't have a lot of it,

you know, and the odds that somebody who made a record you liked last year that you liked the next record is like less even than a book. Right? I mean, like the odds that you like the second book.

It makes a big difference. Yeah. records could blow your mind. What the second the sophomore effort was,

yeah, and you're like, ah, cheese. Oh, now I'm out the money anyway. So I was like, I gotta go. I gotta go see this book in the real life before I buy it. And I found I found out you know about your store which is on was at 90. I always forget the exact crossfeed 90/93 and 9490 39 annex and you you do bike?

I do although I don't bike up there. But

you have the you have the it's not that bad. But you have the only real Hill in all of Manhattan is right at your store. You know what I mean?

They're worse ones. Are there seriously? Yeah, Washington Heights.

Yeah, I don't like up there. Yeah, actually, that is true, but not okay. In Washington Heights. If you go into the parks over by the river where they go down there are some serious hills in the park. But I'm talking like actual city street is there a bigger hill than than yours where you're actually driving with cars. If you're coming

up from like Second Avenue, it's probably hard to top that that stretch from Second Avenue to Lexington in the in the low 90s is killer. Did knuckle

board skateboard and knucklehead skateboarders like bust up their their domes all the time? They're what?

I don't think so. It must have a really bad reputation. I don't see those. I don't see skateboarders there.

Anyways, so So I you know, I make the trek over there. And my intention was to buy the to look at the book, sneak out and buy it on Amazon for cheaper. That was my mental intent. And then I couldn't I had to buy it for you guys. Because you're a I was like, Oh my God, this resource. I need to come here a lot, but I can't because I'll spend all my money. So I was like for Bowdoin, like I wasn't allowed to go to kitchen Arts and Letters. Unlike my brother in law, Wiley, who, you know, I think he just transferred a large chunk of your bookshop to his apartment.

There was there was a glorious period when Wiley had some construction problems and he was spending a lot of time in the store to compensate. It was it was great for us.

Yeah, so Wiley like Wiley. I used to go to the store and you would have like a section that while he was going to come pick up almost his book, and Wiley's bookshelves, by the way, I mean, just nuts. Anyways, again, I digress. So as like, you know, look at you know, this has to be supported. But again, I wasn't allowed to go same JB prints also, I wasn't allowed to go to JB prints dangerous place. exciting place. Yeah. So both kitchen arts and letters and JB prints. I want to support them, but they're kind of it's kind of like a drug. I can't go too often.

I hear what you're saying. Yes. It's I feel that way. You want to go into closed DNS.

Yeah, yeah, yeah. Yeah. It's the problem with Colossians is I love Kullu stands. I love it. Some of the some of the stuff, they won't do what we want them to like Wiley. And I've argued with them, and we both love them. But like, for instance, transglutaminase meat glue, you have to you have to keep it in the freezer, and they just won't. I don't know why they won't do it. I don't know why they won't do it. But there's no place like it on earth that I've been.

Yeah, it's I mean, it keeps getting bigger and better. And I love going in there. And I always leave with five times as many things as I expected to bring home. Oh, true.

True. I bought some stuff there. Yeah. Have you used the Bhutanese fermented tea? No, I haven't either. I bought it there, though. But I haven't used it because like, my wife doesn't like to consume too much caffeine at night stars. Are you okay with caffeine tonight? Yeah, I'm fine. Yeah. So like, I don't want to serve her this salad made with fermented tea leaves at night and get all buzzed up. But then on the other hand, I'm not going to make a fermented tea leaf salad in the morning for breakfast. Anyway, I don't know. I don't know what to do with it. All right. So that's my pitch for the store. And even nowadays, when so much stuff is online, I think the the level of curation and knowledge and care and thought that as you will, you know, witness in the rest of the show that's brought to kind of your job, it's kind of like you, the people at the store are as important as the books themselves. And you don't get that you can't get that from Amazon. You're not gonna get that by reading, you know, those idiot reviewers who are like the page was creased when it got mailed to me one star for the book, one star, you know what I mean? Or like, you know, and a lot of people who write reviews on Amazon are, you know, some of them are good, but a lot of them have like, just wrong axes to grind. You can't really trust them. And I guarantee you they're not written by someone who has spent them majority of their professional career, learning what makes a good cookbook meeting the author's going to the fairs and all of these other things. So anyway, that's the pitch, go to kitchen arts and letters. And you're now have a large, relatively large online presence as well, right?

We do. We're working on expanding it all the time. But it's, it's a big part of our efforts now. And we're always trying to highlight the books that are harder to find elsewhere.

Right. And so you also get, for instance, rare out of print, and you will find books for people if they can't sometimes find and you'll keep your eye out for them.

Yeah, my my business partner who founded the store, and Mark Waxman specializes in that now. It's, it's pretty much what he dedicates himself to. And we do have a free service that finds out of print books for people. And we also periodically send out a newsletter that highlights some unusual things they find or he's found. So it could be a first edition of of a famous cookbook, it could be recently, we had some really interesting reprints of cocktail books from the 1930s. It's always sort of a bit of a grab bag, what he's offering in this newsletters, but it's going to be stuff you're just not going to really learn about elsewhere.

You got any got any really, really whacked out stuff recently that anything comes shoots the mind.

Most of that stuff vanishes pretty quickly. So it finds its it finds its home. But we did have a reprint of Jerry Thomas's original book that was done in the 1930s. It was done. It was slipcased. Very high quality edition. And that was like a $1,200 book,

like the 30s. reprint was a $1,200 book,

it was a really fine, high quality, special limited edition. And it found a home really fast. But I mean, as often isn't anything, it can be like a church cookbook from the 1880s that is really sort of very much about a little place like a little village in Vermont. And there'll be a picture of a church on the front cover and recipes from people who have been dead for 100 years. But they are they're there on the page. And that's a big part of what finding those older books is about.

Right? So when you find a book like that, or when your partner finds a book like that, what is it? Is it the is it the community you're looking at? The recipes, you're looking at? Both? Like what like what's the main value? What's the main value in something like that?

I would say that the community that's revealed is the more interesting thing. The you can see sometimes transitions to the way in which people are writing recipes. In the later part of the 19th century, recipe standardization was coming to the fore people like Fannie farmer, were insisting on precise measurements.

I chose the wrong ones, though that Yeah, well,

that water under the bridge. But the just even the whole format of having the ingredients laid out in a chart before the text, all of that is sort of happening. And so you can see how much these people are paying attention to say, the wider community around them. And you'll see what kind of foods they present as exotic, and what kind of foods they present us as staple items. And it can be sometimes just small clues in the name of the recipe. And, and the ingredients that they adapt to. And it's interesting just to see what was what was commonplace enough that they could call for it. So yeah, you want something that really reflects its place. They're often not books that are, were produced with particularly high quality, paper and so forth. So you they're delicate, they don't tend to be really expensive. But they are a really real piece of Americana. In do you

look for like ingredients that are one step removed from an old ingredient or the actual ingredient like some of them whenever I see like, we have an old recipe in my in my family that asks for soured milk. And so like I know that that recipe probably goes back to when to a pre refrigeration time when they wanted to use older milk and like that the kind of thing that you're looking for them like if it's not sour, add some lemon to it, they don't it doesn't call for buttermilk, because that wasn't something that

they don't usually provide that level of instruction. The assumption is that you knew pretty much they're not giving you the detailed kind of instruction that you might expect from a contemporary American cookbook. They assume that you have been around a kitchen all your life and watch people cook so that there are a lot of basic processes that aren't explained they don't tell you how to trust a chicken or how to cut one up and you know how to come up with individual pieces. So they're basically giving you a process and some ingredients with some possibly rough amounts and assuming that you will have the the No at all to complete it from that fairly spare set of instruction. He liked dressing chickens.

I don't Press chickens. I don't trust chickens myself. No, I like to chicken to be free to open up and be free to roast itself with its arms, or its legs, I guess, held out. So here's a question for a set of cookbooks like that. And I want to kind of buy a couple. And this is weird because I have no relationship to it. But Mr. Macias dad worked for 18 T for a long time. Right works? Well, it's still called a no, he worked for Bell back windows Bell and became at&t. What about these telephone operator cookbooks worth buying? Not worth buying?

I haven't seen any recently. I think they're

all over the country. Some of them are worth a lot of money. And some of them are worth no money.

I don't know what what's reflected in that kind of pricing. There were a lot of sort of career fraternal organization cookbooks. There were a lot of cookbooks by flight attendant who and a good it really depends on the on the individual books. That's a whole genre enough that I don't want to tell a tale out of too much out of school, there was someone who came to us because his mother had written a recipe that was in one of his books, and his mother had sent subsequently passed away. And he wanted to find that book with the recipe of his mother's because he'd never seen it. And he wanted it when he was proposing to the woman he wanted to marry if it was a way of sort of inviting her into the family. And we were able to find that one.

The specific book. Do you remember what the recipe was?

I don't remember what the recipe was. I think it was a dessert. But I can't be more specific than that. But it was at that point that we realized how many books of this type there were and even he knew which airline it was from. And it turned out there were like five books from flight attendants from this airline, huh? published within a span of maybe 15 years. So it had a real Vogue.

Was that the height of when like flying was the coolest?

Yeah, this was like the late 60s early, you know, into the 70s.

Now Yeah, back when like pilots were just like the stuff and everyone looked everyone looked real on point and everything. Hey, speaking of which, did you know that they turned the TWA terminal at John F. Kennedy into a fancy hotel? Yes. I'm gonna go to the fancy hotel or years ago. I didn't I didn't know I don't know anything until my wife's like we're gonna awesome we're gonna go glamping at so Governors Island for those of you that don't know Governor's Island is a small island off the off the tip of Manhattan. Used to be a Coast Guard base. Actually got to stay on it when it was a Coast Guard base in a Motel Six that like it was the Motel Six the lawn and isn't the Statue of Liberty. It was crazy. At a Motel Six. Anyways, so I stayed there when it was a base. But now they have little cabins and you can clamp on them. Which is glamping glamorous camping, but it is it's several $100 A night. It's $700 a night tonight, minimum. Two night minimum minimum. So we were going to do it and I was like, I was like I live here. I'm not spending $1,400 asleep in my own city. You don't mean? I mean? Like, what am I? Am I nuts?

Plus at JFK? I think the bar is gonna Lockheed Constellation. Oh, sick.

Oh, man. Oh, yeah, I'm gonna I'm gonna get all sauced up. The one thing that kind of well, doesn't irritate me because I don't like pools. And now that doesn't stop here. But you have to pay extra to use the pool. What's that all about? I don't know. Would you like it? If you had to pay extra? Would it keep out that? Yeah, I still wouldn't get in. But yeah, but you would appreciate it more. But he's still. Yeah. It's the human filth that you don't enjoy. Right? Yeah. Yeah. never talked to you about the pool that my children had to learn? No, it was in the basement of a building as pulls off in our and it was humid. He's so humid, like, like, makes Miami look dry, humid. And there was always a layer of human grease bubbles on the top of the pool. And I could not touch my kids after they got out until they completely de Filson themselves. Alright, let's look at some Patreon questions. Oh, by the way, for those of you that don't know, whenever, whenever Matt is here, the whole episode is closing soon for you. This is the first time we're doing classics in the field. At the new and the new digs. Oh, just a little also bookkeeping. Jack, we're going to have our RSS RSS is now a real thing. And it's going to get populated to iTunes and all that soon, right?

It is up? Yes, it is up. It's submitted to the platforms you've if you actually the link to the RSS is for anybody because it's free for everyone on Friday. So even if you're not a Patreon yet, you can go to patreon page and see that RSS feed link and you can add it to your favorite player and from people that will discover us throughout the platform. That should be any moment now. So cool. Thanks for your patience on that everyone.

Yeah, I mean like Oh yeah. And so don't send me any more tweets on why the show you can't find it because it's going to be on a regular RSS feed. And for those of you that don't know what an RSS feed you go, you click it once and then it will magically appear in your, in your box every Friday. All right here we got some questions. This is not a I mean, we get book related questions. I have questions for this week's show. Only after your memorial showed that I realized most of my favorite books were edited by Maria Gordon Shelley, she clearly knew how to make amazing cookbooks happen. I would love to find a complete list of books she has edited so that I can expand my collection. I haven't been able to find much information on the internet. The editor name is rarely listed with most book titles. I was wondering if anyone had cooking issues, or kitchen arts and letters or the booklet or had a list of all of her books or had any advice on how I might track one down from Zachary. Any idea on how to track down like a list of what someone has edited?

Wow, that would be pretty impressive, particularly for a career as long

as Maria's she'd only do cookbook, she did like Matthew Claman. And she had

I mean, there was there was a lot more going on there. Sorry, David. But I would assume that Alex would be the person who would be most likely to her daughter Alex, Spanish, Shelley. But whether Alex is tackled something like that yet, I have no idea,

right? Because she also worked at at least two and maybe three major publishing houses for a long time.

Yeah, three major houses but also before that mean she was a she was a Harper. She was at William Morrow she was at Scribners. And she was at WW Norton.

And I heard a story while she was still alive. I was at a book launch party. I was at a book launch party and the literary agent David Black was there. Right? And so he's not my agent. But yeah, I was talking to him because as you do when you're at a fabulous party, yeah, Anastasia was late so I couldn't just like hang out with her make fun of all the people around it was raining remember that day? Remember, we were at that party in the wrong book showed up. It was like if they was a book on like hair care something like this, instead of the cookbook was Chris shepherds book now I don't remember anyways. So like, and yeah, they shipped the wrong book to the book party. So like he, you know, he was there. And we were all it was raining cats and dogs. And he was gonna cook this meal and like, give us all the copy of the book and talk about the book. And then when it was like a book on, there's nothing wrong with haircare books.

I think it was. It's just just not what you were there.

Not what I was there for. And frankly, not something that I personally care about. You know what I mean? Yeah. And as you well, you got to, you know, keep it keep it crisp. You got to keep it nice. And anyways. So he was like he, his dad was in publishing, you know, blacks. And he told a story about when he was a kid, he was at his dad's office, and like, a young whirlwind just blasts into his dad's office and just completely, like, rips him a new one, which apparently no one did back in the day. And he was like, that was Maria Juana Shelley. So it's like she her whole life was like this, you know,

she she was, she was not a figure to be taken lightly. And I mean, there are some people who are powerful forces, but behind it, there's really sort of nothing else but but sort of anger and hot air. But Maria backed that up with intelligence. And so when she decided she was going to have a strong word with you, it was worth paying attention.

Yeah, yeah. When she was biting, she was funny.

She, she, she was smart and tough. And yet you were happier if you were not on her bad side. Yeah. And

that's, you know, like I say, like, my perpetual fear of being on her bedside, although stars. This is the Stasi believes that now that she is gone. I will never finish my book. That's what she believes. No, I think you'll finish it. I just feel sad that she never got to see I've now she's once we feel guilty. You feel guilty? I have at this point, I have actual set of words. If a book is a set of words, I have a portion of it written actually written. But I wouldn't call it you know, no full chapters done yet. Yeah. Interesting stuff. Not to you, though. So as you will hate. I'm going to try to keep it. I'm going to try to keep this book pretty much at the same exact length and size, because I know you've already lost your copy of liquidity. Yeah. And so I want to make it roughly the same size because I know that as we come out of the pandemic, you'll have more and more parties to go to and you'll need you'll need that perfect. That perfect size book to separate the hot and the cold stuff and your potluck. Yeah, that's what that's all she ever used it for. You know what I could do? I could just I could get you an exact liquid intelligence sized block of farm fan. Like they make this phone for prototyping. That's real tough. It's like green and you can sand it so I can make it look exactly like liquid intelligences same, but it'll be like a 10th away. Yeah, yeah. But then if you have the liquid intelligence in between the hot casserole and the cold salad, then if you forgot to give a different gift to someone, you could be like, take this book. Right? Yeah. Because the odds they have it low. Wow. All right. Okay, so the porkchop question trying to get to. Okay, question from Brady Vickers. There are a lot of crappy. I'm editing for the family show aspect. There's a lot of crappy cookbooks out there. So how do you curate a cookbook collection? In other words, what qualities make the cookbook a classic in the field from Brady Vickers in North Dakota?

Well, it's a huge question, because it depends on how you use the books. And if you're cooking from them exactly, you're gonna want a different set of criteria than if you're the kind of person who reads a book and shuts it in and goes into the kitchen and cooks without the book. So you have to begin from sort of sorting it that way. There are books that like the original London River Cafe book that was published here as Rogers and gray, Italian country cooking, famous for having not been well translated to a US edition quantities are wonky. But if you open the book up and say, Look what they did there, that's great, the way those flavors go together, and you close the book, and you go into the kitchen, and you can be really happy with it on that basis. That kind of thing aside, does the book do what it promises you it's going to do? Does it do it conscientiously? Or is it sort of offering you the same 55 things that you're going to find in any other book that's written on the subject? In some areas, you really only have one book to choose from. And so something had become a classic, just by being the one book that somebody bothered to spend the time to write. And books like that have flaws in them. All books have flaws, but but they endure, and they become important just for the fact that one person wrote,

but how much on those kinds of books? Do you like the individual quirky?

Well, I mean, a lot of individual quirky stuff is life that it has, it has flaws, and you go into it, knowing that there are going to be flaws. And you have to I mean, anytime you come to a book, you can't just trust the book, as if, you know, God touched the brain of the author and communicated all this information, you constantly have to be asking yourself, Who is this person? Why are they saying this? What is their background? What are their prejudices? And you're, it's up to you to be filtering that all the time. And if you're not, you're going to find yourself disappointed a lot. Earlier in an email exchange with me, you mentioned somebody like Waverly route. Yeah, sweet writer, Waverly route isn't a brilliant writer on food. He, he's a great storyteller. He has a beautiful turn of phrase. But he was a wreck on tour. More than he was an investigator. It's a French word for liar, right? storyteller, yay, storyteller. It's I mean, he loves a good story. And if somebody told them a good story about a dish or a place, he was going to pass that along, because he believed that that kind of story was part of the culture of the food. And he didn't really care whether it was true, because the truth of the story wasn't important to him so much as the fact that it was a story that, that everybody was telling. And if you know that about Waverly read route, when you go to read him, you don't say, Oh, well, Waverly route says that this dish is called this because, you know, Catherine Domenici, you know, wanted it to be called that when she came from, from Florence to Paris. You know, that's probably not true. It's just a great story. And so you don't, you don't stop your research ever, with Waverly route. But it can be a place to begin

by reading it's good writing beautiful writing.

Yeah, I mean, I wish I could write that way. But you just, you know, you know, when you're reading it, that it's not the last place to go

well, and so speaking also, because when did he die in the 80s?

I think it was, like 79.

When you're reading that kind of stuff, with kind of a modern, like modernize, especially someone who's just starting to read older books, like how do you kind of tell people to adjust in their mind the fact that people just were, like, more openly terrible that a lot of things back in the day?

Well, I mean, it's not just a matter of food. I mean, you know, every book reflects the time in which it's written and published. And that's just part of the the entire endeavor of reading is to pay attention.

I mean, anything about a cookbook, though, right? Is that you want to side with the person who's Writing you want them? It's almost like with a cookbook. It's like you imagine that they're with you in your house cooking with you. And you don't want your racist Uncle Larry, with me, maybe you do I love Uncle Larry, if you're you're never gonna hear this. I don't mean this against you, you know what I mean? But it's like, you know what I'm saying? It's like,

Yeah, I mean, you can, you can. Modern Life is about compartmentalizing things. And sometimes you have to realize that the only source you have is going to be flawed. And you have to know that the information that you're presented with has flaws in it. And it's up to you to decide that the inquiry is not complete, that it has begun and that you have a partial viewpoint. And that viewpoint is not everything it can be. Now, sometimes when it comes to something really simple like to choose a really basic recipe like simple syrup, there aren't going to be that many variations on how

I wrote, I wrote a lot about, but there will

be some people who have something very strong to say about it. But there are other things. I mean, you know, if you go in and you start looking at a lot of regional cuisines and things like that, you know, people you're going to find 1000 different perspectives. And what you should be taking away from that is that there is no definitive version. There are versions that are that are typical, which is different than definitive. And, and you can try to understand what it is that makes for the differences in those in those regional variations. And being engaged and alert is sometimes intellectually more draining than you want. But ultimately, it gets you to a richer place.

And to to the listeners question, if you're going to start curating your own collection, you're actually on the board of a group of people who are actually doing this making a classics in the field. Not called that but a classics in the field thing.

Yeah, I work with the International Association of culinary professionals, the IACP, which each year selects, books that had been published, I believe our criterion is now basically 20 years earlier, or were more and highlights them books that have perhaps started to fall a little bit out of the public eye or books, which just deserve to be called to people's attention. And it's a really interesting discussion each year when we sit down now, mostly by zoom, and start trying to work out what it is that we want to call attention to. But there's still a lot of great books out there that need that need to have light shone on them. And, you know, but it never comes down to, oh, my God, this is the best book ever written on this subject. It's more a matter of this book did something that advanced the field that it's in that it, it took the inquiry in a fresh direction, or it revealed that there was an aspect to it that had been passed over before. And, and that's often what the best books do. So we're always looking for things like that. And we keep it pretty big list of stuff that we talk about year after year, and sort of try and sift together a collection of things that represent a variety of, of disciplines and viewpoints, so that it's not all like going to take books on your

that'd be a good place for them to go and look and see these kinds of books. That's

a great place. Yeah. And the IACP website has a list of culinary classics. Other sites have them around to I think your books.com has a list of the ICP culinary classics winners.

Now, there's a question that came in. And I'm going to bend it towards a cookbook question even though it is not. Nate wrote and curious about the best home Mills for hard varieties of wheat any recommendations? Well, the only home we the only home mills that I really use are the mock mill and the I've used the mock mill and the one I have now the Como which are similar style, get the stone ones I haven't used any of the bigger ones I had the one from KitchenAid is a nightmare. It's terrible. And I wouldn't use a micronizing one I get a stone grinder, it's going to get you the results closer to what you want. That said, I hear that a bunch of grain cookbooks. So Adam yachties book came out a year couple of years ago and it was about kind of home milling and milling. But I hear that like post pandemic we're about to get a wave of grain and grinding books coming out. Is that true?

I've seen only one and I'm gonna blank on the author's name, a book called Southern ground just came out, representing a woman who has a mill in North Carolina and I feel really badly that I'm forgetting her name, because it's an interesting book and she's highlighting local bakers who were using local flowers and grinding doing a lot of their grinding their own There's nothing that I'm aware of that's on the horizon between now and the end of the year. I think those books are still a little further away. Given the time that talented people sometimes need to write a good book. It may not happen instantly.

Yeah, I caught the tweet from upset person in publishing. So it's probably stuff that like the pitches have been accepted, and they're in process and haven't fully handled the man. No bladder had been so bland is when you hand in the whole thing, like a year before they're going to make the book they make this mock up of the design called a bladder. Does anyone know what that stands for?

No, we've investigated but I hate to tell you this. You don't do bladder anymore as a bladder like dying there. In the pandemic, they've just sort of blasted the past lads are a thing of the past.

Yeah. Oh, man. That sucks. No more black anyways. So like the first time other people who weren't in the thing would know about something was about a year in advance it was this thing called the Black. What do they do now? They just tell you what,

it's all online. It's all on line, they send you an electronic catalog and send you page markups, boring. I could spend hours talking about what a bad job they do about choosing those page markups. But

well, you know, I mean, I know when they did ours, the book hadn't been laid out yet. So they had to just make some crap up. And they just pick Pixabay images they think is going to are going to sell to you. And then, you know, anyway,

it's worse than that. But really, I could spend a lot of time talking about that. Yeah. If you're, if you're an author, you should have a conversation with your editor very early on about what's going to end up in the catalog. Because it's often just terrible. And how

much do you think that change is the what the initial buyers from places like?

I mean, I will like take a book, from a 25 to a two, if I feel like they don't understand if the choice of the images in the catalog suggests that the publisher doesn't understand what the appeal of the book is? I'm not gonna I'm not gonna go strong on it. Yeah, it's, I mean, it's big, because I'm like, How are you telling me about this book? What do you think is important for me to know? If you're not nailing that? If those images aren't consistent with everything else? They're telling me? I feel like they don't know what they're doing.

All right. All right. Now, you have brought some newer and some older classics. So let's just start, why don't we do your your classics in the field which one of these books you want to talk about? First?

Let's start with cookbooks of the Jews of Greece. Nice. So this is a book that originally appeared in Greece, not surprisingly, in 1986. And it is a record of the food of a community of rich community of Jews that lived in Thessaloniki, in Greece, up until the Second World War, at which point the community was pretty much destroyed, they were dispersed, those who survived. And in the, in the 1880s, a man named Nicholas Deborah Lacus, began searching out and recording information about the food of these people. And the book starts out with a really nice history of, of the community and of Jews in that part of the world to begin with. And every recipe is really well fleshed out with stories about who was making it when they were making it, whether the recipe he has is typical of say the people who had come to Thessaloniki from Crete are the ones who would come from from Spain. So it's a it's a really poignant document that's also been really well solidly edited, so that it's very applicable if you're buying it from it. It's the kind of passion project cooking that helps keep a sense of community going and a cultural level for groups of people that might otherwise be dispersed cookbooks like this, keep those people connected because the grandmothers who might have come to the United States and we're cooking this food have probably passed away by now, but their kids and grandkids can keep using it.

And is it still in print,

it is still in print. It's a small press called like a betas, which is based in Athens, a guy named John Chappell runs it. He's, he's serious and Intrepid. And he's kept the book going since 1986.

And you said he is an artist as well. So he illustrated it.

I believe he did his own illustration. Several artists did, yeah, he was he did exhibited in galleries and paintings and so forth. But there are photographs in here as well.

So they say this is just like an all around like cool document. It is

it's it's it's about a community that is gone. And it's a way of getting back into that community. Stepping back into another world.

Did any of the recipes get absorbed by the non Jewish community that remained and then like there's kind of orphans and nobody knows about it.

I think it's probably more true that there were, I mean, that was happening all the time. I mean, things don't develop in a vacuum. And they were cross pollinating each other down through the centuries. So some of these recipes, you might find somebody who had grown up in festal, Aniki. Who, who wasn't Jewish, who would be Oh, yeah, we ate that, too. It would be bizarre, if that hadn't happened. But I don't know enough to say exactly which ones.

Alright, cool. But what do you want to do next? Creole feast. Man, we could spend the whole spend the whole time on Creole fees. Why talk about this, but

this is a book that first appeared back in 1978. It was just released last year by University of New Orleans press. And it is recipes with profiles of 15 chef's black chef's from New Orleans restaurants at the time, I would say five of them are women, which was relatively unusual for professional chef books of that time. But you get to see, sometimes there'll be three or four different recipes for basically the same dish, each of them attributed to a different chef. And you can see the individual variations in there. But also the profiles of the chefs and what they had to say about themselves. What they thought was important about what they did in their community is really interesting. Some of them are really emphasizing their professional accomplishments. Some of them are emphasizing the people that they've worked with who have gone on to do things on their own. And it's a way of saying, of showing pride and profession that was still in the late 1970s is really not happening for a lot of African Americans.

Are we even chasing like American chefs in general, individual chefs, I mean, there were famous people writing right but we hadn't had the apotheosis of the chef yet. Right. So yeah, African American voices not often heard women not often heard it professionally. And but also like individual shots not really either.

Yes, this was been you know, the things that Andrew Friedman talks about and chefs drugs and rock and roll the whole Mystique developing around the shaft as sort of as a as a rock icon. This was before that, and these were people who had a lot of them started out with the most basic kitchen jobs. They started out as dishwashers. And they ended up running restaurants that were famous not only in New Orleans but throughout the country.

Right and some of them some of them were owners some of them owners share some of them were were chefs, the co author, Burton, right, who is featured he's on the cover of the original why didn't they use the original cover when they did the release?

They decided it was I'm sure some art department somewhere thought oh, we need something fresh and

why he original cover of the book is like this classic like 70s Writing Creel fees brown on the outside with like, white piping and like, like the chef with his with his, you know, outfit on right.

And he may have his talk on I think he's standing like outside or a restaurant. Yeah. filigree balcony in the background. Yeah,

look at looking like badass New Orleans chef. You know what I mean? It's like, Well, why would you? Why would you throw away? Something like that? What is this? What is that a potato on it? What is this? Rice, garlic, garlic. What is this?

Maybe it's rice. What is this? It's

no offense to the art department. But come on

offense. I said it doesn't really characterize the content of the book the way the other one did. But and you say, though, that they didn't butcher the inside of it? No, I think that they were really true to it. They they were fortunate enough to get an instruction from Leah Chase before she passed away. So in the reprint in the reprint. Yeah. So I think that's a nice, a nice addition to it.

She moves large in the in the book is I think the third chef profiled.

Yeah, she's definitely in there. She's significant. And she's talking about, you know, about her early career, it's, it's, I mean, it's a great way of looking at how people made their way in the world.

In that what I, what I like about it is as you say, there's a short bio of the of the chef's or it's not always a straight bio, like, like, a lot of them are like, um, they have to do from memory, the cars, the museum has my copy of the book, but it was like, they're just talking about, like, where they learned from what, you know, kind of the people they grew up with other other cooks that they admire and like, you know, what they were what they were good at, you know, like, Oh, that guy knew how to cook eggs. That guy could cook eggs better than anybody. You know what I mean? Like,

they're paying tribute? Yeah. Who came before them? Yeah, right.

And so it's just like, it's a great read. I will say, however, that like, you know, I went to do Keep chasers and I said this on the air before I had the trim climb and so I also had Willie Mays, scotch house chicken and dooky Chase chicken on the same day within an hour and a half of each other, which is kind of an interesting side by rare side by. But the shrimp Clemenceau was the real moneymaker for me at dooky Chase's there are three recipes, I looked him up right before we started, got on air in here, one of which is Leah chases, and I've seen her recipe published elsewhere, because I think she used to make it whenever she would do this circuit or whatever she would do. And that recipe does not make the product that they that they serve the product that they the recipe that is printed, will not make something with the taste of the product that they serve at the restaurant, they have reserved some special secret, something that turns the butter that they cook the shrimp and the potatoes and the mushroom and the peas into some sort of drug requires like, like you must eat it all. You have to keep asking for bread to eat it until it's done and you'll pour it over anything like and the recipe unless they unless it's miracle shrimp that they're getting out of the Gulf there which let's be honest, the Gulf shrimp are fine to find another one with the Gulf shrimp. Oh voicer voices. Now grab on that. That's why they have to be clubbed. Called boisterous, or crashed oysters. By go shrimp are fine, right? Yeah. Yeah. You don't like all fully sure. So

I'm not a strong oyster eater. So my opinion there is weak.

Anyways, so yeah, check out that book. That's a definite a classic in the field and easy to get now because it's been reprinted. Look for the old.

If you come across an old copy, you'll understand exactly why Dave is so partial to it. Yeah. recovers. Is has impact.

It's also I mean, again, I wasn't able to put my hands on it. But for those of you who are of a certain age, it it is it has a good form factor. So it is the pages are relatively. They're thin, they're thin, but they're thin but stout. They don't feel flimsy, but it's thin enough such that the covers are relatively wide thickness relative to the thickness of the of the book as a whole considering how many pages I'm not being clear, but it's a good object. The book itself feels like a good object in your hand but it's not big. It's got a good book form factor I think

you know, I have I have to go because we have a copy back in the store. I'll have to go back on

my memory is it's only about yay sick. But it's got decent boards. Oh, yeah, you can see on the air right? It's not like the new one with the kind of this like, fluffy paper that everyone uses now is a good bit thicker than the original, but also smaller. Write the original one has it? It's just more book like the original form.

Well, hardcover, I think is always more satisfying.

Yeah. Unless you're traveling. Then you know, I like if I'm going to fly with a book. It's paperback Yeah. Or if I don't care, and I just need to absorb the information paperback. But yeah, hardcover, hardcover all the way do you cook out of books? Or do you leave your books pristine,

I cook out of books, my books are noticeably cooked from I'm at one point I felt that I had some obligation to, to preserve them, but then I just realized I was getting so distracted from from the cooking that I really was not enjoying myself. So I mean, there are plenty of things that I I now make off the top of my head but when I'm cooking for something for the first time when I'm really sort of getting down with a book and getting to know it, I'm going to be habit open. I'm going to be reading the instructions and evaluating them. Yeah, it's gonna get messy that will be splashing some stains.

Nice. Jack, did you say we had another Patreon question that was regarding books.

There the last one we got here is yes. So the question was, are there any sorbet focus cookbooks that go into heavy technique? Jeff has a half a page which mostly describes what sorbet is and I just read through Hello, my name is ice cream, which is wonderful, but as I should have known, has nothing in the way of sorbet. I use point 3% promotin 64 and target a brix of 25 to 30 to find that my results are wildly inconsistent with some sorbets being scoopable directly from the freezer and others being a bit icy even when temperature to negative 10 Celsius serving temperature. I'm reviewing churning techniques and even just purchased a home blast chiller to optimize the process but would really like a resource of good recipes, blueprint ratios, and a discussion of more obscure additives like sugar alcohols, it's such a resource exists. All the best. Andrew

makes a home blast freezer. I don't want I don't have space for it. Yeah, I mean, is there one specifically on surveys that I mean, obviously this is more technical. Arbuckle was redone by the University of Guelph people, right? Yeah, I haven't seen it though. Yeah. can't be like the original Arbuckle did that go into sorbet?

I'd spent a long time I don't recall that it had a great deal about it. But it's been 15 years since I had a copy in my hands. I would go to Nagoya is frozen desserts. Looking for that information. I don't absolutely know that it's there. But it would be a place I would check. And then there's a book by Carolyn Liddell and Robin Weir that's been published, both as frozen desserts and ice cream, sorbet and gelato. They have sorbets scattered through the book, but a good reference section at the back about bricks and sugar ratios and things like that. It's not the it's not targeted at a professional situation the way the muglia is, but tested Blumenthal says it was the book that got him interested in making ice cream. So

when was the muglia? When did him a global come out?

Wow. Um, off the top of my head, I would say 2005

Right. But it hasn't been re re up cuz like a lot has happened. Like, like, unfortunately, like, you know, technology knowledge goes forward so fast now that old books sometimes are great documents, but on the technical side, they can seem they can seem like they need a rebuff, you know what I mean? Yeah,

I mean, I, I would also think that maybe Angelica vetoes cigarettes, or lotto, or secrets of ice cream, has surveys in it, but it's also going to be about 15 years old. That's bilingual, it's really focused on using a pacojet.

Is it Monty? Good? It is. Is it as poorly translated as, as the Roka books was? Were or no. It's about the same? Yeah. So great books, but they don't as much care. Oh, look, again, talking about school. He was saying earlier, they don't as much care about the English. So like, you know, there was the, the one that really caught me on the first two V book in English was the ROKUS book translated by Monty green press. Beautiful, great from Clark and Roca before they got their three stars. Great, very influential book hated by Runa. So and they translate dried cod as cod. And so all these people were trying to cook fresh cod at like 104 degrees Fahrenheit, or whatever it was. And that's, that's an abomination. That's a horror show.

Yeah, we we've had words, and I should correct myself. It was not. The Kobita book is actually from Bilbo, which is another Barcelona publisher specializing in professional books, but similar problems with translations. Yeah,

yeah. Is it just that they is it cost too much? Or that they just don't care about us?

I also, I mean, my suspicion, and nobody will verify this for me is that I think sometimes somebody says, Oh, yeah, my cousin was an exchange student in Indiana and for for a year. And so I'll get my cousin to do it. And they just don't bring people in who have the equivalent technical expertise in English to do the translation.

How do you translate back allows cod without adding the word salt? I mean,

it could be just sort of one of those things that is taken for granted. But you know, the difference, but yeah, it would be it would be helpful if if it were reviewed by somebody who had experience in the kitchen,

speaking of the Arbuckle ice cream book, and I know, you said you're not like, you know, so with the Arbuckle ice cream book, what do you think about this thing where people will take a reference that people have used for decades? And then, you know, do a new addition? And if the author has been dead more than x number of years, just remove the name? What do you think about that whole thing?

I think that's pretty low. Sometimes it's, it's done by publishers for whom the original work was a work for hire, and the publisher owns the work and they can, you know, hire whoever they want to do an update. But I mean, to be honest, the book wouldn't have its standing in the field with that original person hadn't been involved, and they should be credited. Even if somebody else's name now comes first. Right? Yeah, yeah, that should keep it

on there. I think the Arbuckle was redone by one of the better known people from the University of Guelph, who has like an amazing dairy program. But again, I don't think they're going to focus as much on sorbet because they're so heavily dairy focused, but they're fantastically knowledgeable about dairy. I don't know. Yeah. All right. What's your next What's your next book you got here?

Um, so I think I would like to call some attention to speaking of technical sourdough pan atonia and Viennoiserie. This is a recent publication, a book that came out in 2020 by Thomas treffry Shem Bilad, who is a French Baker are an instructor who is fascinated by the qualities of wheat. And this is the most detailed book I have ever seen in my life on the creation of Pan atony, which is something of an elusive subject for bakers, these specialty enriched dos have incredible keeping qualities, they're culturally important. They're significant for holidays. And this is the first thing that I've seen dedicated to it. And unlike those cases, where sometimes they you sort of have to make do with the only book, because it is the only book this is a book that I think really delivers the kind of incredible technical detail you would want. If you were setting out to create your own pentatonic program.

Great program. In other words like this is not at all at at all, like dumbed down so that like you, no one at home can knock out a passable pen atone for themselves. And via look what I made. It's not that at all,

no, this is this is production quantities. This is this assumes you have a sheeter it's you know, it's you're you're you're in there at a really high level, I like the flowcharts. It has incredible information on which yeasts are most commonly found in, in sourdoughs. In Italy, which bacterias are commonly found how to encourage them. It talks about processes that I have not seen documented anywhere else, like refreshing or following the refresh of a W you're bathing in as sugar water solution for 30 to 40 minutes to reduce the acidification. It's an it combines recipes from seven I believe, leading practitioners in Italy and France and one American.

So another thing about kitchen are some letters which are not going to make you call me you probably wouldn't want to so I'm not going to ask you to call people out on on air. But another thing you get if you go there in person is they sell books like this to all of the to the professionals in New York and around the world who asked for this kind of book from them. And they also get feedback. So for instance, I don't know if this is new. So I don't know if you've had it yet. But like often I would ask you Well, I know that people have been buying this book, what feedback have you been getting from people who've taken these books back to their kitchens? Or read them what kind of feedback you're getting? Have you been getting any feedback from the community on this yet,

the most direct feedback we've had on this is that the bakeries that have bought one have come back for come back for more. So I usually take that as a pretty good sign that somebody feels that the book has advanced their game. I have not had an over the counter conversation with somebody who's used it. I'm waiting for that day. I'd love that to happen. But I don't have that kind of feedback yet.

Yeah, yeah. But in general, I think that's another benefit you get from dealing with real people is, you know, they can say, well, you know, as you're, again, not going to call up, but I've had these conversations with you before where you're like, Oh, I sold that to XY and Z. And they didn't get that much out of it. Or you know, but they did get something out of this and blah, blah, blah. So useful information to have. Yeah,

I mean, we absolutely welcome that. I mean, you know, whether it's by email or phone call, I mean, people call up and they say, Hey, I need some new books. And I bought this last time, and I didn't quite do what I needed to do. And maybe it's a failure on our part. And we're learning about how to talk to people about the books, but sometimes you learn that some books are prettier than they are used.

Oh, you want to call one out? No, no. What about one that's really ugly, but it's really awesome.

Oh, god, that's um, um, you know, I've completely blanked on that. But, I mean, there are I mean, that's sort of true of a lot of classic cookbooks, that they're, they're not beautiful things. I mean, I can't get people to buy Marcela, Hassan because it doesn't have photographs. It really breaks my heart. For me, I have pounded my head on the desk after conversations with people because my child has on doesn't have photograph.

Hmm, hmm. People still just need the photos.

I mean, it's more than ever. Instagram has changed the world.

I will listen, what's the last book? What's the last book but

I brought up a book called curries, and bugles. It's a cookbook of the British Raj by Jennifer Brennan. She grew up in a third generation family. Her grandparents had come to Britain or to India, at the height of the British power and she's documenting a way of life that pretty much vanished in the 1940s there it's It's this bizarre mix fascinatingly bizarre mix of things like discussions, the difficulty of obtaining ham for a proper English breakfast to traditional Indian recipes that became a part of everyday life there. There are stories about life at the club and it's just it's a time and a place that's, that's gone. It probably deserves to be gone. I mean, I don't think anybody wants it to come back. But it's a toll without a lot of sentiment. She's not asking for it to be returned. But it's

how old is she? When was it when it is come out book came out

in 1990. Jennifer's got to be in her late 80s at this point.

Okay, so she was a she was a like a teenager when all this was going down? Yes. Probably

born I would guess mid 1930s. But she's got stories from her parents and their grandparents.

All right. Now I do have to do this. Travis Hawkins asked what Brandis kitchen scale I use it doesn't have a brand. I bought it on eBay because it was cheap. And it was being sold as an off brand new unit. But I'll put it on Patreon. I'll find the eBay link that I did. And we'll put on a Patreon for you. I just want to say in the Start Stasio is going to get chance to make fun of me on Friday, we went to go see the premiere of fries. The movie Anastasia had to watch me on the air on the on the movie screen and literally like Eric unpair was there like a bunch of people were there. And every time I came on the Stasi would loudly go Bulu so that everyone in the audience could hear. That sounds like it checks out Jack. Yeah. All right. Say this guy again. Yeah, this guy. And we were all in our pod. It was it was see who was with us. It was Aereo our friend Nick Coleman, who's going to come on the show. Yes. So do you like olive oil? Or like olive oil. So this guy is sky. Nick. He goes around the world chasing the harvest so he doesn't grow his own trees or even like produce but he calls himself and only what does he call himself and oleaginous with the columns of he doesn't want to call himself anything and it's oh so he needs new cards and just wants to be the guy that knows all the while the guy that knows olive oil so we're gonna have him on and do like a multi olive oil tasting is going to bring get this people you ready to get excited? Southern Hemisphere new crop oils which are just coming out now which I've never even had someone shipped me a southern a new crop, Southern oil, no experience, no experience. And next week in this you gotta get this guy's book in your store. Next week on the show, send in your questions about knives we are going to have on for I was researching for the book, sharpening books and I'd always used old outdated, a book called the razor's edge guide to sharpening which is a paperback that a lot of people bought because the guy can shave. The guy used to sharpen axes and then shave with them. That was his his thing. And I was never much for the kind of super hardcore, you know, pristine Japanese Whetstone kind of thing of a jig. So I was researching, you know, what's the current state of knife knives and knife sharpening. And it was one of those things that like coffee. If you haven't paid attention to it in the past 10 years, it's just shot way beyond your knowledge. Like it's just it's just way beyond anything that you could imagine. And so this guy has a blog learn Thomas does called nice deal nerds. And on it, he just debunks a lot of old myths on nice deal but he has a lot to say about sharpening. He has a boat ton of research. He wrote a self published book called knife engineering, it's self published. And I think you should get it at the store. I should have brought my copy of it to see whether you'd be interested in it. But you check it out. Check out the thing on it because right now it's only on Amazon but I know that you probably have a lot of chefs who are interested in knives and this is very in the weeds it's not about how to choose your favorite chef knife. It's more about what is the actual effect of edge angle on cutting ability Karmapa Yeah, what is the difference between powder metal powder, metallurgy steel and not between the stainless and not new style old style what's damask is all the things like full of micrographs of the steel and and how different treatments and steel sizes have different carbides well how that leads to like Blade chip out at the end like just very in depth technical and he is a steel. He is an automotive steel metallurgist by trade, but his dad is a well known Damascus blade maker and has been for years and his passion is knife steals. And so we can also send in your questions for Patreon or you know, via Instagram or Twitter, to cooking issues on anything you want to know about knives so we're cutting In geometry, he has he has a lot to say about whether single blade bevels are going to cut more at a particular angle than double will. And it's not what I thought necessarily, although I'm going to have to have words with him about exactly what that means initiating a cut versus not serrated versus not microsuede versus not what grid to sharp with. So it's fascinating stuff. If you really want to get in the weeds on knives, which a lot of cooks do. So yeah, send us questions on that. And I'll you know, I'll shoot you his info. You got to check out his question. You should have it. Absolutely. Yeah. Well, so stars were I thought you were gonna make over. You're gonna make more fun of me for the fryer overtime.

Well, let's talk about our new Patreon. Yeah, before we leave. We got ready. We'll see if I botched these names.

By the way, do you know Harold McGee is one of our Patreon subscribers?

Oh, isn't that nice? Yeah. Yeah.

The Harold McGee V.

Me, Timothy Hellmuth Ross Brown, TED ANDERSON, Ben Pasquale Schmidt and Bender Matthew Murphy. David Jensen, Adam squared away. That's I didn't get that one. Andrew monks, inconceivable as Howard mints, Alex Cheshire, Benjamin Dweck, Dirk dough and Matt's or who subscribed during the show.

Oh, nice. Thanks. Thanks. Appreciate it. Thanks, guys. Thanks for helping us out. Spread the word that we're here now at New sans studio, a new stand studios at Rockefeller Center. And they knew RSS is going to be on your iTunes slash Spotify slash stitching or whatever the heck people do now is stuff good news. It is it is now Dave. All right. We're live. So don't tell your buddies. I don't want to hear. I don't want to hear any more about oh, cooking issues. Did you stop recording? No, we're here. Joe. Are we here? Here. There you go. All right. Matt, thanks so much for coming on. As usual. I appreciate it. Hopefully we'll have you have you on again sometime.

Thank you. All right. Cooking issues.