Cooking Issues Transcript

Episode 63: Nirvana & Bagpipes

broadcasting live from Roberta's in Bushwick Brooklyn you're listening to Heritage Radio Network. Com

hello welcome to cooking issues is Dave Arnold cookie she's coming to live every Tuesday from the Heritage Radio Network Roberto's Pizzeria in the back in the little container they have cut here for a radio station in the bush with joined as usual with Miss Tosha the hammer Lopez although a sickness Dasha 18497 to 128 that 718-497-2128 you got to hurry because we're only here to answer your thanksgiving-related cooking questions or otherwise the next 45 minutes or say so I know you know it was even more depressing getting on the subway and seeing everything that their suitcases at Port Authority going home Port Authority is for those either haven't visited our fine City Port Authority is a hellhole I mean 100% unmitigated hunk of crap. Up one job one job

people in the city and out of the city and effective manner so what what are some things you need good transport back and forth right good signage friendly staff know where staff worse unless you work there which case I love you where is signage sections over the road running through it so you're like where's my butt in the other building how come there's no sign saying it's in the other freaking building authority what do you want an easy way to get in the other city is wrong with you anyway Port Authority sucks the only thing that kind of Rivals Port Authority for sucking is got2b Penn Station the other biggest hunk of crap in the entire city and also the other place in supposed to get people in and out of the city relatively easy they give those either don't take trains and out of city either because you're rich enough to always have a car or whatever I don't know why but for some reason I can tell you right now on a program exactly what track

your train will be on a month-and-a-half okay at Penn Station they like to wait until 5 minutes before the trains going to leave so that everyone with their luggage and smashing into each other down a tiny Corridor to rush and beat each other up in like knock each other into the tracks to get to the train just make any freaking Sense come on people anyway I think the reason is because she was in part aside from all the other cooking issues and you know new company related work that we're doing she ran the wedding celebration for our good buddy Nils noren and I'm Vicky you know Chef Nils noren our buddy had his wedding never thought he never thought and nastasha forgets to tell me is true story forget to tell me hey Nils requested that you make some cocktails for their way which I would gladly do I'll do anything for noodles doesn't

make them and was like they've made them like the hell I made them they were good they were delicious right but like I'm not going to take it

recipe if I make if I make Bobby Flay's recipe Bobby Flay major chicken anyway they were good so to you goes to credit going to blame as well cuz that's the way she goes all right Matthew rights in hi David nastasha I'm looking forward to Today Show this Friday I'm catering a party in the most requested me to prepare a filet of beef tenderloin throw that all you other people out there I don't have access to a circulator although there's a slight chance I could borrow one from some friends and won't have to cook The Tenderloins from raw at the apartment where the party is I'll probably cook one from medium rare medium which is already too high for my taste by the way Matthew and another medium to well-done and in France right not my choice obviously not anyone's Choice what the hell just put a blindfold on the customer survey don't know how overcook it is and they'll enjoy it when it's cooked less anyway it if you don't have the opportunity to poke your eyes out so they can't look at the color I mean you know you going to have to obviously if you

do tenderloin well done you're going to have to Sauced it Sauced to be Jesus out of it in order to have it be even moderately edible right or wrong right anyway do you have any advice for preparing preparing beef fillet with standard issue home kitchen equipment I have about a three-hour window from when I arrive at the house until the meat will be served

if you really do have to cook one of these suckers until it's gray and unappetizing you're going to have to make a delicious sauce to go with it I suggest something at sauce with a lot of fat in it it's down it's not going to pay the fat pull out a cream-based sauce Perhaps Perhaps onions Cassis and creams and make sure they're of might be good with some reduce beef stock right by the sounds good right that's one thing if you if you're going to if you're supposed to overcook it because your customers want to overcook you might as well go balls into a beef wellington cuz that's kind of Ball Z right where you take you and Siri off the meat then you're going to take a mixture of pate and sauteed mushrooms and shallots and put it over the top of the tenderloin wrapped in puff pastry and then cook it and I Avant guaranteed they wanted overcooked anyway that's what I would recommend tenderloin is interesting it's a cure to cut it a lot of chefs don't give a lot of Merit to because it doesn't have a lot of pain

tissue and people think of it as a fairly as far as Beef goes not having a lot of beef flavor so Chevy S10 to make fun of the cut now it can be delicious as a text real thing and it does yes so sexist it's usually it like a lot of it basically there's a lot of sexism a newsflash lot of sex and you know it's seen its kind of a ladies cut it's kind of like it's the cosmos takes basically so what the trick to cooking one is one not overcooking it is because of no connective tissue it wants to cook in a very very low temperatures when I am using a circulator I only cook it up to like 54.4% which is very low rare because it doesn't have any sort of fat really organic tissue to protect it from overcooking

to you don't want to cook it that long because even with low temperature mean if you had a circulator the meat would get a kind of mushy if you cooked it for a long time so it's resuming by the way you are writing a question that you want to keep it whole as a whole filet and then cut serving otherwise I would just cut it in the steaks and cook the steaks which is a lot easier to do well using home equipment now I'm going to go radical on you first of all if you have to do it at home equipment I would put a crust on it and then I would put it in the oven in and out in and out in and out in and out in and out of the oven to try and get a more moderate heat on it so it doesn't overcook a bit at the pain in the butt and if you don't do it all the time like now replicates David kinch Manresa amazing Chef he moved away from using circulators and instead mimics the effect of a circular which is a low average heat input by moving the meat in and out in and out in and out of another in which it the same time has the

high heat of the oven which Chris Chris and Browns the outside while he's getting the low habit average heat input so he's doing it that way you can do it that way you're something I suggest go to the apartment most people's hot water taps and departments are fairly hot measure the temperature of the hot water using an instant read thermometer if the water is within a couple of degrees of 54 like if it's 53 all the way up to like 55 56 then I would put the tenderloin in a ziplock bag with a little bit of oil and turn the running water on if the water's too hot at a tiny bit of cold water and it'll stabilized get a steady but not severe stream of hot water just won't work in an apartment by the way I in a house because you're typically run out of hot water but an apartment usually you won't she can run a steady stream of hot water over a ziplock bag and I've actually cooked food this way in a pinch it's completely Eco unfriendly but it will work bring it you want to make sure that the

Cook's through in under you want to cook it in about 45 to 50 minutes in a tenderloin woke up cooked through a depends on how thick it is it might take an hour and a half if it's really thick and then pull it out who it down a little bit and sear the outside of it that helpful to about 54 is where I shoot for for where I do not go about 56 tenderloin is a very very short window of yumminess okay now it's our good friend Ariel from UC Davis is she post office now UC Davis or she still a grad student where she supposed to talk I don't know who used to be a person bounce and she gave us some very interesting information she's running some tests online juice for us

but it also helps that because people who've heard me Yap about lime juice a lot know that a lot of people prefer lime juice that's three or four very fresh lime juice in a cocktail and so she's doing the preliminary studies on what's actually going on in the lime juice and apparently the volatile the level of all those decreases rapidly over that first three to four-hour chunk and other flavors starting to come in so that it looks like there might be an actual sweet spot in the lime juice if you like a specific profile more to come she's going to work on it more in the new year but that's pretty and the other thing is that she wrote in about a pungency and garlic which is something that I know I apparently now got wrong and apparently McGee also we are both got it wrong there is a Punchy scale for alliums onions and in particular but I'm sure it also work with garlic and it's called the pyruvate scale so what happens is is when it when you convert

Ally Ana River does Allison whichever way it goes from the non pungent to the pungent using the enzymes when you cut or crush garlic or onion that pungency is created also creates a molecule of pyruvate which is easily measurable and doesn't degrade so what happens is as fast so they make the they crush up onions and they use a relatively inexpensive piece of equipment they are spectrophotometers supposed to like doing it more expensive process and they can measure directly the level of pyruvate sits there and therefore have a measure of how pungent the practice so there is a measure of pungency that in from Ariel and you can look it up on Wikipedia I should have looked at how pyruvate scale she said it's a paper and you can you can just go look it up for those of you that have that sort of that sort of the capability to look up paper pyruvate scale

interesting all right now Jason the southwest of England writes and says I'm a dedicated podcast listener but you cannot listen live in call in because I'm in England although I'm a native New Yorker so hopefully I can ask Dave a question by email hear you are doing it here it is happening okay you told me it should not be stored cold I keep my current bag of coffee in the fridge and any supplies in the freezer no one could explain to me why this was bad and I assumed reducing the rate of oxidation in general spoilers by keeping the coffee cold has to be a major benefit given how fast can coffee get old and stale my rationale also include the fact that the ground coffee is going to come to temperature Superfast given its low moisture content high surface area and the fact of being immersed in hundred degree water what do you think the science science says story called The people seem to be arguing against us for some reason thanks Jason who had

stuck in South West Wing listen if you're going to be in Southwest England Jason Now's the Time shout out to Somerset and The Cider folks over there you guys got to be rolling and apple cider to 20 maybe it's not done yet but that's one of the apple cider producing kingdoms like centers of the universe right there me to file it like in fact if I had the time I wasn't working on so much stuff and if it wasn't Thanksgiving I'd be getting on a plane right now and flying to the other side and you sorry Summer Saturday going to Kent to go to the brown tail collection and chewing down on some apples and having some delicious I took over there so good time to be from the south made good time of year to be from the south being a member stash invitation by the okay so back to the question on coffee now listen

I was not able listen I was not able to find any actual scholarly research on this but I will tell you the reasoning that I have heard over the years and it's also and you know not to chew size with your wife but that you shouldn't store the coffee in the fridge and here's why

it's not the cold it's not the it's not the cold it's hurting it it's the fact that you get a lot of condensation as the temperature changes up and down up and down up and down so if you had if you had coffee in a hermetically sealed bag that had no moisture or in the same amount of moisture the coffee had it controlled atmosphere let's say CO2 Purge nitrogen Purge vacuum right and you pull it in and out of the fridge there might actually be some damage from temperature cycling but the damage wouldn't be that great because you wouldn't be getting any condensation from the outside from moisture coming into the outside in a normal situation there's moisture and the conversation that moisture in the service of the beans as the temperature changes is what's causing the problem and that's especially going to happen if you're in and out in and out in and out if you are going to freeze the coffee

freezing is viable but you have to make sure that there's no moisture in the package at all so you want to get all the air out of the package if you have the ability to flush with some sort of gas like CO2 or what not if it's not very fresh beans when you roast fresh bean if you buy that you should you should roast green beans roasted it's a lot of fun at me it's really it really is and you can you don't have to get a release some fancy could then you can start just with a panda and and you know spoon you shake it around if you just invest I think I 20 bucks in a Whirley Pop popcorn maker they make great you can roast coffee very well in that I know I'm going to get some call saying that I'm a jerk but you don't even need a thermometer you can do it based on sound and smell don't say don't tell me when I said that but you can do good coffee roasting just a base on that or you can move to an air popcorn popper number of ways to do roast coffee but then you can do it but if you roast your own coffee you'll notice

at the gas a lot if you were to take freshly roasted coffee that you just roasted and sealed it in a jar assuming I don't think it would make enough pressure to pull up when you open it it will you get a blast of CO2 out because the CO2 is being evolved out of the beans as they age and so that's why they actually have one-way valves in these bags to stop the bags from puffing up so that the CO2 can get out once the beans have gotten rid of all of their CO2 beans once have you gotten rid of the CO2 then they start to oxidize much more rapidly and they and they still don't know what I would look at me it is that they want to be protected from oxygen oxygen is going to be their enemy moisture going to be there any me so I think that that also your fridge has lots of May I don't know that you're afraid you might have to clean the fridge in the world but fridge is going to have a lot of things in them it will stink which is why I like when the fridge when the power goes out you realize house

your fridge is because it's not cold anymore which doesn't doesn't dampen on the Vols me when I smell it so coffee which is very porous 10th to pick up at aromaz it tends to pick up moisture which condenses on it as it goes in and out of the fridge until the consensus is don't do it yeah she's happy with my answer I hope Jason Bourne 849-721-2818

what about the cooking issues call your questions to 718-497-2128 at 718-497-2128 so with the Nirvana off of this is not my fault they look so the DJ's playing all kind of easy you know not easy but you know like you know kind of stuff you know anybody missing Bible by the way I'm going to have a lunatic dancer and I was with Vicky are from renters like an awesome Staten Island lunatic answered awesome amazing and my wife dancing and they throw on they throw on Smells Like Teen Spirit from Nirvana I don't like what what what what at a wedding I was like look if you're going to do that the only appropriate way to do that is to complete my shot head bang slam some you asked for it you played it and so I started doing that the headband is not the same as when I had long hair back in 1999

but a clear the Dance Floor me I was like trying to do a little shoulder Shake it's freaking Nirvana

anyways you know thank God it wasn't 1991 or like some giant football jock would have started doing in Smash Into Me and knocked me halfway across the this is my memory by the right now this is what my life would be like any who my neck is still Source it turns out that when you're 40 going on 41 if you haven't done to headbang in awhile you might want to stay away today show a modernist Pantry supplying Innovative ingredients for the modern cook do you love to experiment with new cooking techniques and ingredients but hate to overspend 4 pounds of supplies and only a few grams are needed for application modernist Pantry has a solution that offer a wide range of modern ingredients in packages that make sense for the home cook or Enthusiast and most cost only around five bucks then you time money and storage space What are you looking for hydrocolloid or even meat glue you're fired modernist pantry and if you need something that they don't carry just asked Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to Source it for you but inexpensive shipping to any country in the world modernist pantry is your one-stop-shop for Innovative cookie ingredients

and I'm cooking issues a place an order of $25 or more before next week's show will get a free sample of trans with him and his AKA meat glue to experiment with over the holidays people use the promo code CI 63 placing your order online at monitor pantry.com visit monitor pantry.com today for all of your modernist cooking needs me clue seasonal me clue you don't know I put my order in for the turkey you could run down the turkey farmer do you guys remember his name the turkey farmer Larry Sorrell Larry Sorrell the Heritage Meat turkey farmer right I guess it like it's done done two turkeys are slaughtered their dead so you can come in from here where do you live he lives in Pennsylvania

Eric said he's at he's here at Roberta's eating which is awesome because I'm about to go to the Heritage Meat stand Essex Street Market by the way you can now just any any Joe Comeau happens to show up in the Lower East Side of New York can go purchase Heritage Meats at the Essex Street Market little known facts by people who didn't already know it and and I'm going to go pick up my turkey today and next week I'll report back of how do I see something I don't know you know what I feel what I'm thinking I'm thinking I might I look I've become lazy in my old age as soon as he had 40 you initially become lazy sorry all you forty-five-year-old your lazy Sons of Guns anyway I think I'm just going to go on the sucker out and Thanksgiving turkey what else is there to do in a bone out the turkey and probably roll it and then and then cook it that way I think it's the easiest way I just don't have the time this year to do the you know the

aluminum skeleton and Company without the other what is the best damn turkey I've ever made any way onto questions about this week I'm working on a sandwich for my business space around red wine braised beef I'm breathing truck on the stove top and red wine and beef broth after slowly simmer for a few hours I pulled a piece of farting reduce the brace to reglaze everything comes out pretty well except for the color ends up being grayish ideal I want to end up with some of the color red wine or concord grape juice okay look here's the right off the bat and the you're not using an aluminum I mean you're not using a reactive pan it's going to cause a problem right to assume you're working in stainless or some other form of something is not going to cause any sort of off coloring based on the metal thing. I think anytime you're doing a long cook and introducing and you have a

stuff like beef brothers are Browns the colors are never going to be as Punchy as you want me to say gray use your music going kind of a brownish color and then that brown can go somewhat grayish if there's fat and gaining muscle fight into the brace so I can make sure you try and skim the fat after before you before you were do sit down to a glaze get the fat off of it also you might the flavor is going to be different like the real get the flavor you going to want that that ground beef meat stock but you might move to like a white veal stock would you can reduce a lot more without getting the food coloring pack from all the brown bits you know if you don't Brown the music again all that's that's what makes it delicious so I think it's going to be hard to kind of punch the color now you can cheat but if it really wrote me a check not ruins delicious changes the flavor by Joe pick up the color with things that have very high coloring values like I like concord grape tomato paste or something of that nature is going to punch punch through the red up

I'm interested in hearing anyone else where they have any suggestions on this I mean I like a braised kind of sauce but they always do look kind of loopy unless you just create the sauce from scratch instead of having a few part of the Braves do you know like have the Braves be the Braves save that sauce continue to Brazen and then just make a specific sauce that has a specific color profile Casillas or whatever to go with it what he thinks that she don't give a frap Happy Thanksgiving okay, right since you mentioned on last week's show the tannins and pectins combined in Persimmons as they ripen to make him less stringent map hack into something tannic like black walnut booze for instance to reduce astringency I tried an ln2 that's all you folks out there freeze last year to dehydrate the tannins at your suggestion but that did not have a strong effect sorry I'll try pectin but if you ever tried something similar thanks Colin okay look it look it

what happens is tannin will complex with pectin in Fruit write in a bleeding situation by letting the most effective way to attend is like to bind with proteins a lot so if you really want to buy the hell out of 10 in you're going to want to treat it with a protein-based wine fining agent so what are your choices are already in your fridge most likely egg white so mix and you can look up the proportions in wine fining on the internet's but it's usually egg white and salt-free water softener I think to enter make the proteins act better I don't know why it said frankly and water to make it easy to make send you stir it into your liquid and then over the course of like a week or two the egg white protein will combine with the tannins into larger into large of complexes and when they do that the slowly sink to the bottom and then you can wrap this

stuff off the top that's classic way to do it even more hardcore than egg in terms of its ability to remove tannins with eggs going to remove tannins but not necessarily that much if you if you dissolve gelatin mix the gelatin in the gelatin will complex with the tanning and then overtime settle down to the bottom and you can rack it off give a centrifuge you can do it even easier so typically these also milk protein can do it if you if you combine a milk protein to the problem of proteases I think in order to get him settle out properly you might have to have a fairly low PH which I think you won't have in your wall so it's you know it's a question also I think the gel in the work of basically any pH but typically the things are done at wine pH is but I would use this sort of this sort of a technique or move to something like kind of sandwich you can get at a

you know what to do with a protein tell tell me how it works is it one of those things should work that makes our good friend Tony Conigliaro is engaged to 69 Colebrook Road engagement Aaron rights in Helotes Taschen Dave I'm Still Loving the show thanks very much very inspiring I like that he's like assuming that we're going to turn to crap he's like I'm Still Loving it I was expecting would be crap by now but I'm still loving it. A lot of people are responding to are you listening

are you there I would really like to improve how I present my food I'm not looking for super fine dining level a presentation but I would like to incorporate as much as possible that quality into the food I serve people at home I'm in the north of England haven't found any appropriate course is anywhere near me so far can you recommend any resources online or in print to help me learn all the best steaks very much Erin is an interesting question actually a very interesting question and it's one I was thinking about this morning and I don't have it I don't have a good answer so I'm just going to talk about it we used to teach a plating course at The Culinary is kind of a monster plater but they don't teach me anymore playing at home is always it's difficult because usually you're the only person doing the plating and you have to get all the compounds together and and serve it out so it can be a little more difficult but if you're interested in is just family style

just making individual dishes look nice so if you have to look at it from the range of arrangement of ideas one are you just talking about what the food looks like in general are we really talking about plating if you're just talking about with the food looks like in general than as you're making choices you make choices not only based on taste but based on her house and he's going to look in the end right so you'll choose things they obviously taste is the primary thing you're going to choose but you'll think about that color is going to go really nice with that and instinctively you start making choices about how things like that are going to look at that old man of color would look really nice what flavor will go really nice that has that color and you can bring like Poppy I like a Black Widow something nice and Poppy to its color-wise right or I'm going to use a different kind of a cooking technique because I don't want it to look over reduced or brown something like that that's the first step is actually once you get the the colors and the end the look of the food to be what you want now how do you present it and then the

best way to do that is to just read not a I don't have any good I've read some I'm not going to even recommended of the ones I've I'm sure there's great once I'm not insulting if it happens between your the written one please tell us which one it is I'll take a look at it but some of the old plating technique books that I've read I don't really first while they are they tend to be dated by the time they come out and you know they're kind of a kind of have never really been inspired by them you know what I would do is just go look at a bunch of Chef cookbooks that put out restaurant meals and you get an idea for what's possible with plating so if you're looking to do food at a particular in particular style then find the cookbook of a chef is respected who does that like if you want like kind of hey I'm a I'm a badass big meet jockey go get the TV show and book and like it'll show you how to stick a knife through a sandwich or something like that you know what I mean if you want to do something kind of really like high-end plating and fresh and new go look at like Eleven Madison is all played it out you know the new cookbook but I would look

I took anything more about this and hopefully people will write it and tell me things that they like so next week I can mention them on the show do you have anything hearing from you this week you can prove you're listening by writing in with ideas for her plating technique like resources right techniques you can learn like you can learn to Canal something right at least look online for YouTube videos on how to connect or you can learn how to drop you know oil onto a soup with it with a Squeezebox if you want to do some fancy plating techniques learn to do good work with a spoon like the brush to schmear learn it learn to drop things out of squeeze bottles that's kind of old school anyway look at Miss Tasha's is trying to punch me in the face tell me where to take a second commercial break so we'll come right back all your questions to set Monday for 97212 871-849-7128

deja vu

the pictures on the road

apply just attacked me to cooking issues so nastasha you going to you going to even though you're sick you going to go to the Thanksgiving Day parade this year and watch them blow up the balloons to my like that I wish to explode the balloons I hate parades my son Booker can you imagine him in a crowd of people waiting for a balloon to pass around Natural History that's cool I like bagpipes

you like that place now I do it's just you would you know me I would be sad

look if you get married bagpipe in the face and next time you see her I'm kidding don't do that not advocating any violence but I'm saying yes funerals because it's touring you're also supposed to play bagpipes when you march into battle and you play the winnings are always appropriate anytime stirring music is appropriate the great Highland bagpipes is appropriate

amazing instrument anyway I enjoyed bagpipes what do you think every parade is a funeral why do they have in the parades guarantee yet they don't have them here

well I don't care I don't like the Thanksgiving Day Parade just marching bands

can we just do the rest of the show with bagpipes in the back with him that definitely have to put in the greatest rock and roll rock and roll is the greatest use of Bagpipes in rock and roll my right

yeah yes okay on record I do not enjoy the parade except in the bagpipes okay Steve Santana rights in I was wondering if you go over a few sous vide questions relating to duck breast should the skin be score before bagging or just before searing so the breast be bad with butter or better yet rendered duck fat if I can find some over the fat already Under the Skin be enough with the same results from the last assault or not to saw post apply to duck breast to and should the duck breast be sealed after cooking and he's asking 40 minutes and 64 Celsius as their time and temperature for cooking before searing I would not go standard let you know like Long Island picking style duck breast 57° C for a 45 minutes is sufficient I wouldn't go above

that if you have a tougher duck breasts sometimes you can go to 58 I don't recommend cooking duck breast longer than about an hour because it doesn't happen all the time but they can start tasting Livery and the color can start going gray if they're cooked for too long so I would not recommend cooking the duck breast to Long also I don't bag the duck breast with anything other than the duck breast that they're really need it because here's what you're going to and I don't cut it or do anything beforehand because you're not really rendering out fat at those temperatures to cook in a 50/50 758 you're not really rendering a lot of fat so what I would do is bag the duck breast put it on a table squash skin side Flats so that later on when you sear it it will it will be flat against your pants going to see her out properly now I know the modernist cuisine you know young myhrvold the way they I think you appreciate her cryosphere they freeze deduct scanned and they poked it with holes in

freeze it then they then they bag at then they cook a thinly refreeze it than this year it I typically I haven't done a side-by-side so I don't know what's better I typically don't share my duck breast before because what I'm doing when I do my sous vide cooking technique I call low temperature for sous-vide for insurance purposes I'm ensuring that the duck breast is cooked through out to the temperature I want and then I cool it and then I sear it off as though I was doing a traditional cook on it the only difference is is it now all I'm focusing on is crispy delicious skin so I'm not worried about cooking a duck breast it's already cooked so I all I'm worried about that is rendering the fat increase penis skin out and so that's a whole range of techniques like that that I called Low temp you might call Azevedo that you're wrong it's low temp message in a vacuum bag when it says for insurance I do that with roasts I'll do it with poultry I'll do it with a lot of things and it wouldn't let you do is get a lot of traditional taste and texture

Gametime ensure that you have the meat cooked properly and that you're only focusing on one problem at a time getting the skin right instead of trying to get the skin right and then meet me at the same time okay now as regards scoring it Mills and I have to agree with him here because I did a side-by-side deep test scoring the skin on a duck because when you score it aware you score it you tend to over cook the meat because the steam when your rendering goes up and over cook the meat at that point there's if there's there's flying again by the way going on outside or something there's something crazy always going on outside of Roberto's Pizzeria today is flying to get in there like running around with smashing flies with with paper as every weekend I would use a technique that modernist cuisine does which everyone can do and I think is awesome go to your local pet supplies

Orem purchase a dog coming brush the one with all the little spikes in it and instead of scouring the skin on a duck breast whack it a few times with the dog with the stainless steel dog comb and that way you can rent around a lot of the fat without overcooking the meat it's a great technique I've tried it I think it's awesome do not solve the duck before you cook it salt the duck may be right before you hear it and that's that that's the way to go what do you think I'm going to make a shout out to the guys who listen at Blue Hill at Stone barns you really know how to shut up to the guys who lives at the shout out

anyway OK Tim Hayes musician Oregon rights in regard to question I usually stay on the Savory side when cooking but lately I've been seduced by the sweet recipes from Christina tosi's Momofuku Milk Bar book specifically the incredible cookie recipe she has so kindly shared with the world my favorite cookie hers is a corn is the corn cookie enjoy the corn cookie quite a lot do you like wow what do you say to me another people hear you say that

I don't want anyone I don't want even though he just called her a little cloudy human big one day will be low-quality human being exactly do you hate biscuits all right meaning of butter and sugar that the rest of her cookie recipes require and by the way what we're talking about here is tozi recommends a very long creaming process 10 minutes where the sugar and the butter ice cream together and then the eggs are whipped in and their basic idea is to generate as much by way to her that's wack 10 seconds ago it was part of flying again going on in Reverse April on creamy step with a lot of air into the cookie and provides the structure that she likes in a cookie and so she's very and we work in The Milk Bar commissary I can say

State cream the hell out of that stuff anyway so that her recipes require I see the reasons for this step right to mix but her peanut butter cookie recipe got me thinking she mentions that you only need to clean this recipe for about 3 minutes because of the emulsifying properties of the peanut butter sure enough the mix fluffs up much quicker so two-part question what about peanut butter making such a great emulsifier and would it be possible to use emulsifying agents to Quicken the creaming and other cookie recipes now I guarantee that the way that sito's you figure this out was she noticed that her peanut butter stuff was I was getting them out of are beaten into it much more quickly than other things then the question is is it really the emulsifiers in it that are doing it and I did some initial research

and it is it's hard to find apparently look like protein there is protein in peanuts and that protein can probably act as somewhat as an emulsifying a millisecond questions well perhaps there's

crystazzi she's crazy crazy when I looked up peanut butters industrial peanut butters I looked up GIF and I looked up Skippy okay now everybody knows some people know I should say if you grind your own peanut butter you buy natural peanut butter the peanut oil separates from the peanut salad and has to be wished back in right peanut butter is basically no solids kind of emulsified into a into peanut oil so GIF does that little GIF GIF does that by adding mono and diglycerides which is a straight-up emulsifier so if you use GIF you are at it you are adding an emulsifier into your cookie mix and that will help incorporate are right but if you look at Skippy's label Skippy doesn't put mono and diglycerides and their regular peanut butter instead they substitute a certain amount of peanut oil for a hydrogenated fat and then hydrogenated fat which is solid instead of

liquid at room temperature prevents the separation of Skippy peanut butter okay so there's two basic ways they can stop a separation peanut butter emulsifiers or with adding a hydrogenated fat my prediction look toward more people adding emulsifiers because less and less people going to want to add hydrogenated fat because of the bad rap hydrogenated Fat Cats guys freaking serious about killing flies do in Assassin's Creed like seriously it's like it's like war crimes against flies he's like going crazy over here anyway but actually I think what's going on is it the peanut butter itself is acting as a whipping agent right so when you're creaming sugar and butter the sugar particles in the sugar before they dissolve the Melt are acting as a basically their carving holes in the butter as you as your whipping and they act as a whipping and aerating agent and I think the tiny particles in peanut butter are also

acting as a whipping which is why you can actually whip peanut butter you can whip it up so I think it's probably not the emulsifiers they're doing it but the fact the peanut butter itself is acting as a whipping you so I could use a peanut butter cookie by cookie cookie anyone there is beyond notice I'm going to steal a paper cookie from you anyway I hope all of you have a fantastic Thanksgiving and a delicious delicious delicious turkey on your turkey day game experience

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