Cooking Issues Transcript

Episode 39: Brooks Headley

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hello and welcome to cooking issues with you live every Tuesday on the Heritage Radio Network from the back of Roberto's Pizzeria in Brooklyn here today with a mustache and a hammer Lopez we might be Joy later by Brooks Headley pastry chef at Del posto one of our favorite restaurant in all of your questions to 497 what 718-497-2128 because for some reason it is impossible for me to commit this number to memory no matter how many times I said it and I usually have a little slip of paper in front of me that tells me what the number is and today I don't have its own. She's going to have to to say it like that you just can't remember for one reason or another no nothing

Cinco de Mayo Edition even though it says it's not what day is it third today Saturday after today mustache and I are going to be at the $150 she can come by and we're going to make some strawberries for doing it right now lab so-called in the back of the Milk Bar commissary we're going to plant strawberries and Tequila I think we have a good rep asada right yeah yeah and blending that together a previous interviews with some enzymes to get Crystal Clear strawberry tequila or you just going to squeeze some lime into it and stir it with some ice and I haven't figured out what the garnishes we figure out the garbage and I know that's not my mommy Juice Juice's because strawberries are grown in Mexico loan drivers are grown in Mexico in one and that's also where they have the

so because it's strawberries and Mexican where's mommy's so that we're doing Mommy juice today and we're also going to take some Bombay Sapphire Gin blended with banana spinach for another version of our jinhu steno drink we eat we like very much gin who's Dino Dino memes blending with bananas and spinning a centerpiece with enzymes don't ask why you're probably with ginger right but they only gave us 12 bottles of each so I mustache and I are going to Port all kick fast and then join the party as as party people instead of as doors behind the behind the counter true or false true true write a business is out we have a question in from Scott hands month has a comments on what he thinks the name of our new company should be and he says he likes the idea that it was Coffee Road today he would have an addition to the row station in the fish station a kind of rotovap Center fuchsia cool stuff station

should we should call the equipment company something like future station or eight station or burgard burgard Technologic if you wanted to be fancy in French kitchen Brigade sounds pretty South pretty badass I think kitchen Brigade sound pretty badass of course it's escoffier was writing today he would write in English

that's just me said the

but I and I like these and I think we might actually maybe use one of those things for a line of kitchen equipment but I think pending the approval of our partners in this Stars I'm thinking that we're going to go with ready

Booker and Dax is the names of my two kids right so Booker sounds like you know, like an old dude even though he's only ten 9 rather you guys sound like an old dude who's kind of smart knows what's up that's also true and Dax is the kind of guy that it's like you know you don't want to mess with him like this if it was not going to break who said so dakstats exotac said anyway so I think Booker and Dax which you know name name of my two kids together sounds like an old-school tell me what you think said you liked it but I like this kitchen Brigade as a line of tools or Brigade Kitchen Bouquet Pokedex right and we might have an announcement on that within the week maybe right once those are the lawyers almost done talking anyway thank you Scott for those up for this question snap Richard Cocoa Beach called in and said he ordered the coop ideas for his Aeropress after mentioned in his previous email we spoke about it all night on an earlier thing it's a

fine mesh filter that fits into the Aeropress which is the cheap kind of like a piston based off megaboom talking about says he likes it a very much that's good and then he met you through talking about the thermomix last week so I brought a Braun thermomix which is a immersion circulator he wants to know about the thermomix proper proper he said he's been in the device that looks like they're no longer discovered in the US. There's a Canadian distributor who'll actually ship to the US so it's not much in the way of reviews and he sees that most reviews that are written or Not by the type of people who would he silicon carbide breaks in the in the microwave for sharing that would be us have we ever had the opportunity to put a thermomix through its paces and yes I have we don't have anymore because it got stolen see what the thermomix is for those of you that don't know it is a blender with a glue almost like a food processor blade but the bowl is also a scale which is used for

she was false not very accurate scale that's pretty useful and also a heating device so it can heat while it Blends which is useful for certain things like in hydrocolloid like if you're going to do Joanne you can heat and stir the same time agitate and keep it hot so you don't have to worry about it in a gelling up on you is a cool down so yes it's useful for that is useful for making certain kinds of hot Foams it makes an awesome kind of cheese sauce that could keep stirring it when it doesn't burn while it's cooking such great it's good to weigh things out it's not the world's greatest blender but it is really cool but it's very very very expensive it cost in the US roughly what to buy depressed would cost okay I don't think it's worth to fight a press I would rather have to wait like unless you're at home I would rather have to Vie de preps in my kitchen than one thermomix now all of the European Chef's tale of the thermomix because in Europe the thermomix is it sits around it's like it's like

Gamers use it like they would use a KitchenAid her or anything else I think it probably is a little bit cheaper in Europe wear Converse Evite up reps are very expensive which of the high-powered blenders that we always are very expensive are there so few vital press in Europe and very many thermomix is the exact opposite of here kicks the crap out of the thermomix as a blender but there is other there are other things that the thermomix can do Brooks just showed up so he's going to I'm going to pass do you guys have any thermal the other thermomix as you ever play around with them a lot of stuff that they serve at the throne and makes that they sell it as it is like HuHot it's nonsense like you don't need the steaming basket cuz you can just steam with it I don't know anyone like even if you're a pro me are you really going to like time everything right so that the stuff is stirring in the underneath is done at the exact same time your broccoli is steamed rice and meat doesn't make so much sense to me but if you have $700 in your pocket and it's burning a hole in your pocket and

don't already on a vital prep for a good blender and you're looking for something it's pretty interesting that a lot of people in Europe like a lot thermomix is good but I mean it's okay but again I would rather take that 700 bucks and by to buy de preps with it cuz you can't ever have enough by the crabs in any way for those of you that don't know Brooks Brooks is the the pastry chef but is there like a child that goes above pastry chef at Del posto I mean technically it's executive pastry dude at Del posto Del posto one of my favorite restaurants in Manhattan it's the only Italian restaurant that has four stars true

true Italian restaurant that has a four stars are a good friend Mark Ladner Arista is the chef there and it's a it's a great meal I think we're the interesting things about Brooks is working to turn on a spot didn't say I was going to do this is that even though you know a lot of the dishes have traditional basis to them at Del posto even though they're not necessarily represent traditional I think that it's some of that like most interesting freshest desserts out there that Brooks is putting out a think of what you think this Tasha literally fresh presentations interesting using flavors that aren't necessarily crazy but I think just you know pretty interesting stuff but for some reason the guy that posted don't like being thought of this as Innovative comments

wow yeah I know it's just it's it that I don't know I just I consider myself like a like a like a grandma so like in terms of like the style of the food or the way that I cook it or whatever like and I definitely think of it as cooking like a lot of pastry chefs think of their like Bakers or whatever like I'm I'm a cook so here's the thing people who get label is innovative who ride are pushing certain boundaries of techniques and ingredients to me it's enough to be Innovative if I haven't tasted something like that before or it's surprising surprising and yet surprising and yet familiar in terms of its not outside of my bounds of comfort but yet I'm still surprised

these are the kinds of things that I enjoy tasting kind of the most likely particular like it's dead simple but your celery sorbet is a butt kicker is still on the menu and I'm not going to take it off anytime soon so delicious products right before the event the Hebrew food in Italy artichoke

what's funny like a I actually I had a chef maybe like 10 years ago that wanted me to do an artichoke dessert and I did was terrible so I chose to do it again as like a challenge to myself like making an artichoke into some sort of sweet thing you know so I was doing so I don't remember what I think I like like chopped it up and caramelized it in like hammered it and put it on some ice cream it was is pretty gross yeah little bit I hope I hope +721-287-184-9721 to a calling any questions you have for Brooks or for us and I can either talk more and go to our first break anything Jack what do you think break or talk or talk or talk

talk talk band imma try to pronounce his name Chuan year-on-year like that says have I ever tried one of the wonderful french fry So Cal burritos basically like a Beck breakfast burrito with a bunch of french fries jammed into it I have not got one is local Mexican spot this is how I got one is local Mexican spot and it took him back but we are burrito be like burritos I do Natasha doesn't because she hates anything she had growing up I swear to God she doesn't like like limes because they grew in her backyard she doesn't like freaking what is it you don't like anything that you had as a child she's like I ate a peanut when I was a kid so I don't like him anymore right crazy so she doesn't like burritos because she grew up in LA and she ate them as a child most people on earth like stuff they hate us a child she's exact opposite she's like my mom shortbread tasted like hardtack

add hardtack right I made her heart attack so she now has a reference to it but beaten biscuits are basically heart attack anyway so I'm not try the French fry but that would be delicious but I am a fan of speaking of flying burritos in the chimichanga do you enjoy the chimichangas fried burrito but we had that we did a pilot for like what's to be ever talked about this just came in and it's not actually the first time I've heard this idea if you can believe that bird like tape your burrito together you tape it like some sort of types of your burrito along, but is a pilot that they never pick up the show but I think the greatest invention maybe in my whole life was something we did for her for this it's called the semi-charmed that we talked about this before send me chonga why don't you just eat the chimichanga walking around the answer is because the top when you eat it will shatter and then the parcel fall all over the place right

I need a burrito the problem is a burrito like kind of slimes out and then gets crappy love your hands this Sammy Chong uh-huh is where you make a burrito and you fry I only like the bottom third to half of it to make it crispy like a chimichanga you wrap that in the paper and now the top is still soft like a burrito right and then you can eat the top like an ice cream cone that it's a burrito and then when you get down to the bottom where it's crunchy it's not so tall so it's not going to explode and go flying all over your shirt this send me Chango you heard it here first all right now we will go to the break will come back with questions for Brooks at 718-497-2128 that's 718-497-2128 cooking issues

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welcome back to cooking issues with nastasha and Brooks Headley of delpo still calling your questions to 718-497-2128 that's 718-497-2128 but I have a question in do I don't have any questions can you can you look up who is he came from fortunately College of Culinary School and they are known here in Michigan for having quite a few Master Chefs I'm assuming he's being certified Master Chef this title really mean much to most chests or any of the other titles like certified executive chef excetra and I would have been chewed like to work in New York restaurants were from what I hear it's hard to get him some of the restaurants without contacts do you have any tips thanks Nick well the school where you are I believe has Brian polcyn is very well regarded charcuterie Chef who also I believe happens to be a certified Master Chef there aren't that many certified Master Chef certainly I think like 60 or 70 certified Master Chef so you have to go through a Preposterous battery

best to do it and it was famously chronicled in that room and book sold a chef I was not about certified Master Chef and I think it came in here I think it's an amazing accomplishment to be able to pass all those tests but I don't think it necessarily mean in New York it's more like is your restaurant good where have you worked right

yeah yeah I mean absolutely it's it's all about like

was your last dish good I mean

I'm just curious do you have any tips for like avoiding cracks and cheesecakes ends on a lot of things like like the temperature and obviously the weather weather to cook in a water bath or there's so many different like variations in terms of like the cracks though

like in like a classic like New York cheesecake or whatever it's it's really have no specific like tips to like like tell you like this is absolutely going to work because there's so many variations of her variables like sets and drives out too soon and then splits as it cools or when it's like what is what's causing the cats not a baked cheesecake do you cook in a water bath by the way when I make my cheesecake with cherries or something actually that's what I do to get on top from the oven if it's not there's any moisture in there are assuming we get a little bit tougher and then it might it might split instead of giving I'm not sure I know I mean in in like a still open at home

like you don't have it I mean you have one setting basically on you know like I mean if you have like a like obviously we have super fancy like Combi ovens and stuff you can adjust everything you know so I like technically I could probably get a cheesecake that doesn't crack but the funny thing is is like if I was going to make a cheesecake I would just baked in the still of the same way that you would make it home so if I think of anything I might see McGee later this week and he thinks about those kind of things a lot so if I if I come up with anything then I'll I'll mention it next week oh yeah thank you

Sara Lee going to get them meet certified Master Chef is not like looking for a line job right on at a restaurant

now that they're probably mainly working for larger institutions or teaching or I think mostly like when I hear about people with that that's how you like that they're either like yeah they're working for school for their or they're like the corporate Chef for like a big company or something you know so but it is what I hear it's hard to get into some of the restaurants without contacts you haven't eat if it definitely helps to have in the high-end restaurant to definitely helps to have some human being that will vouch for you and say that you're a good worker and I'm going to say something and then Brooks ghost tell me whether I'm right or wrong but it's very compelling argument to write a bunch of times saying I'm willing to come work for free to do whatever to be in your kitchen and then and I will work like a dog and expect nothing and I will do it for free is fairly compelling argument like one letter like that

maybe look at it like a whatever but if you get like 10 letters from the same person like eventually they stop being a crazy person I mean maybe up up until a certain point there a crazy person but then then you're like maybe they're just really into it like definitely if you're Relentless with it and that it can definitely like get your foot in the door so you have to be willing to do whatever work like a dog ride and or just basically

show up and expect anything new I mean like when we have Trails or so I'll just come in like sometimes then the nature of the day or whatever they're just rolling chocolate truffles for like 4 hours and I'm so and that's usually like a good gold standard litmus test whatever for like if if someone comes in in in like a really fast what can I do next then okay maybe this is maybe this is a good person or whatever and sometimes people would just roll the truffles really slow and I mean like if they're trained like no it's my first friend I like really feel like men you know like what what's going on here so we then we will move you into the walk-in freezer

it's a known thing for pastry people hot hands

besides looking like I might like a freak I'm not making this stuff up massage helps you out and I start making a list of places you want to work at and then just started piling mean but if you go to a culinary school one of the main things of a culinary school is it there are people there who know chefs and I guarantee you there's someone there who knows someone who can get you vouched into a place so you might not have to write a thousand letters but I would be prepared to do it if you have a particular place that you want to work there are some places because their kitchens aren't very big where they actually it can be hard to get a star's even working for free but usually if you pester them long enough like Brooke says you you can make it in because of kitchen people seem to enjoy persistence yeah I know of course like it it just shows that you're like committed to the cause which is exactly the kind of person that you want working for you in the kitchen is someone completely

entirely committed

like like a soldier without any question you know so what percentage of the people who come in as a stodgy think burnout

meet like people that start as a people that really want to you know go the high-end Perfection is fine dining restaurant Route come in and do a starfish and then they're like wow this really wasn't what I thought I wanted it wasn't what I thought like right off the bat a lot of people be like I had no idea this was going to be like or or I mean it usually like I find firm Flex for a lot of my stuff it comes at the end of the night where you know

they think of like working in like a fancy fine dining restaurant is like this very glamorous thing but at the end of the night like you know you're on your hands and knees like scrubbing out the lowboy like and every sin is especially for Desert people every single other person in the entire restaurant is gone so you're there basically by yourself scrubbing out the lowboy in its they might be like 2 in the morning that's that I find that that's like a cracked like a kraken point for people like cuz I look looking around in like there's like what is going on like that you can get that alot to write someone who's like like I worked especially people who career-changers right there like they don't feel like you ever had that happen to have some music career changer comes in does it feel like they should have to do all that every once in a while I mean I would say more in the past like in recent times like I think people seem to like

kind of get like working in a fine dining restaurant is going to be pretty tough so is actually a quality sing in the end right it's like keeping the the quality I like there's no no no absolutely that's why I like it is probably more important than what's up like roll fondant to a certain thickness to make a wedding cake you know so if there's if there's something on the floor grab them up clean it up people coming out of cooking school now they saying that they're not willing to do all that stuff anymore do you think that's that's passing

I mean it really depends I mean it depends on the person it's it's almost like a case-by-case thing like sometimes sometimes you you you you get people that are like just complete all stars in like you're like wow where'd you come from you came from space or something and then everyone smell you get someone who's like really doesn't get it at all but I would say for the most part it's kind of like in the middle there so you're working for free right which is not that many Industries work that way like like a dog getting yelled at and doing it for free and long hours and many days a week right so okay but on the other hand the flip side is that the restaurants also putting an investment in you as well because you might mess up a product you take time away from the Kooks who got to explain things is there at least see that side of it to like you feel that you're actually

name something yeah I mean like when like

in the past like I mean before I say before I work at Del posto I do that all the time like I would I would work for weeks for free places or if I found a place to that did I really wanted to be I would do whatever I could to like just hang out there for work I mean yeah I mean if if I could like log all the liquor free hours that I've worked in like the past thirteen years whatever like I could probably buy a house or something in New York any tips on how to get the most out of starch

honestly it's just a like

you can totally tell after about an hour if someone's like going to be an All-Star in like they can you just know like just the way and I think it's like a I think I heard on like payard's say that one time like like just watch people's hands like if they if they're constantly moving and constantly working like you know they're going to be like a good a good person to have on the team some 718-497-2128 cooking issues

what you saying that's a new one huh have another couple of minutes to call your questions in for us and for Brooks at 718-497-2128 that's 718-497-2128 what is the Musashi answer to question yet on the show my sweet sugar in candy true but until someone tries to call me out like in a public situation and then I'm just like all really the gloves are off

and realize that all right that's kind of where I'm at with my questions right to call in like are you single what's your sign anything but your son is change right aren't you on that we talked about this. If you have a legitimate question that's not asking the stash it for a date or about when you can ask her why she hates everything that she ate growing up or why she has to take inflicted relationship with you know the foods of Los Angeles

you said that not me not me anyway you're welcome to call in for a question one of the of the Harvard class that duffrin did last year from adrea and I'm going to assist McGee action on the first lecture of the new year coming up in September we should be fun I don't know what I'm going to do there but something maybe you know blow blow blow everyone up everyone thinks I'm going to go to places and blow everyone up but I've never blown up another person you don't even have never blown up someone other than myself I'm fascinated by chocolate especially transformation from the bitter seeds the cacao tree to a tasty chocolate bar that is a very interesting transformation are there any other Foods undergo a similar set of steps permutation roasting grinding also do you know of any other tropical fruit seeds it could become delicious to such a process thanks Naveen

DC copy Rite coffee goes through meiosis similar a similar set of procedures quite literally fermentation drying roasting grinding and vanilla goes through picking fermentation right it's dipped in using boiling water and then we'll did and then fermented so it's similar and then I guess it can be ground to form a taste bud to know it doesn't taste like vanilla until it goes through its its its Paces to be fermented the fact that is called red vanilla you can get it it's interesting but it's not it doesn't taste like vanilla I don't know offhand although I do some research because we're going to do so at least we can do some do some tests I don't know of any other tropical fruit seeds other than those that go through these kinds of process is any if you ever heard of anything like what else goes through that kind of

tea tea leaves read tea leaves go through fermentation process like that I mean those olives but that's not really like the same kind of process but I still have to process to make them Edibles is it just the things that need to be processed to make edible there a lot of things like that right but I have to think more about it interesting question I like the whole bike I'm fascinated by how we figured out that frenchtons ackee fruit will kill you if you eat it unless the pods open up all the way in the fridge right some dude must a key for his you know they're like kind of the national fruit of Jamaica ackee how would you say it

is that the eighth q c a s a c k e e ackee and saltfish is like the classic but you can only buy canned ackee here in New York far as I know never seen fresh ackee and but if you eat it and it hasn't opened up its poisonous but if you and you shouldn't eat it all parently for pregnant but acting selfish as one of the Jamaican national dishes so some dude ate a hug and probably a whole trees worth of ripe a key right it was like this David good you know what I mean and then like his buddy picked it too early and died and it was like oh yeah you know don't do that I'm fascinated by this kind of stuff moving so we will look more into different things like I said people call him right in with your with your various various no fermentation and deadly poison things being posted this week on eater is going to be our our Burger Extravaganza that training session today so

so basically eaters doing like a hole to have some sort of like Burger Festival week some crap I don't know what they wanted some sort of fantabulous fancy Burger but it turns out that the burgers and I typically like to make aren't that fancy my favorite one of my favorite Burgers is patty melt I think patty melt is delicious burger patty melt for those of you not have to Patty melts patty melt is rye bread it's got to be right on yinz swiss cheese and a whole thing you cook the burger and then you put it in and you cook it like a grilled cheese sandwich with the onion soda bread gets toasted with mash would be fantastic I like mine with ketchup delicious so I did a slightly high-tech version of a patty melt where it was all pretty much traditional except

I cooked the burger low temperature in a ziplock bag in butter and made the burger thicker than it normally was and Ice Grill it like a grilled cheese sandwich with the onions and then separated and put the burger in between to the Burger didn't actually get smashed but the bread did I thought I was good I thought it was delicious but either came back and I like listen we wanted something wacky we went to you not for something that doesn't taste good we want something that's wacky e72 had to go reshoot something that was whack your ass is true or false true do grilled cheese but I'm going to add a meat glue and baking sheets right so we made out of bacon lemonade with me clue vacuum it down and then we cut everything in the ring so that all look perfect because we figured that was fancy or and whack your side of the rye bread was cut into a ring we then took Conte which is like gruyere and cut it into a ring and then the baking sheets cut into a ring and then soda

what was the basis of the grilled cheese sandwich we can put the caramelize onions on it this time so is bacon gruyere all my lights blue cheese sandwich the burger we also took pickle sheets and turn them like you would Japanese style was like a new Suba Gray State are integrated into a ring so you had a ring-shaped pickle that was the size of the burger which was nice and then for the burger to make it all fantabulous Lee fancy-dancy we reduced veal stock down so it was really thick and beefy and the gelatin was really you can go very strong added ketchup to it out of calcium lactate gluconate right set it into a sheet cut the sheets into two rings and then threw those into Elgin it so that form to layer around the gelatin so now we have like a little hockey puck of beef ketchup gelatin with a layer of Elgin and around we chose algenib because it's loaded toughest can use the wrist and this kind of rough handling and it's also a heatproof so then we built a burger around that around that sheet of a of that

Michel'le and then low temp Friday to set it low temp cooked and butter and then roasted over charcoal to get a nice charcoal outside put that in between and when you cut the burger it's like a soup dumpling it explodes ketchup and and field start all over the plate and don't we did one without when you do with a bun it like sprays a little bit kind like when you take a cherry tomato and you bite it and like if you don't close your mouth when you do it you spray your buddy downtown map China like that but we did it by itself it was kind of like almost obscene we we just got a burger and was like he likes shot up like a fountain like they're like they're like a burger couldn't hold it and I put that way okay so that's the I don't know what they're going to use from that I don't know what they're going to use from that

yeah it's actually going to be online today is there a photo of an exploding fever and by the way as goes back to what I was doing art for you know trying to do our for a living and we're cooking issues in Archer now I'm in a dark chocolate me I just put a post up today on the blog she can go look at the post on the Block and see what we put into the art show including something about are you know so we met in California Roy van who owns the Imperial tea court and doesn't like a really interesting stuff with t including he's going to he's growing his own tea in a tea Farm in California which I think is really cool and unprecedented photo of the burger with the stuff shooting out of the top of it and you caught it like just as it was like in midair like somehow that's more badass than the video that happening cuz it's very hard meme

you guys are good so I'm sure it's good but like him for me it was very hard to get videos that were as compelling as a good still shot like I always preferred the one good still shot like take the video and then choose the one awesome still from it and put that up I don't know it's like it seems to me because in your mind fills in the rest of everything you don't need you don't need the actual whole whole video love that is my theory is it when I was doing performance art crafts with you last week and so I should we go to market last week Studio Martha Stewart wanted to centrifuge we bought her the damn centrifuge and I fixed it and then it was nice one I paid I think like three hundred bucks or some like that which was her limit on eBay yes yes yes she only want to pay $300 for the centrifuge which is like you know I paid more for dinner and she has what she want

show me bring it to her Studio she wants to learn about it and the one we bring when we show up sucker literally breaks I'll let you know this happens with stuff that you get off of eBay like even though I fix one problem there's another problem in the machine and it turned out that it's an is $900 tomorrow a problem to fix so I was like man crap so we ended up taking what would describe the situation we were both not pleased wow all right yeah and so basically I gave her there and look depressed cuz the machine is broken Brooks am I supposed to look depressed tell me that what am I supposed to do my supposed to say I don't have a hair shirt with me that I can put on

I'm sure she's punishing herself that's why she doesn't know anyway so I didn't have something to beat myself with I didn't bring like you know that that the other little small whip till I quit my back and apologize that the $300 centrifuge we've spent hours fixing broke again well thank God anyway so I gave her a different centrifuge and so hopefully she's happy with it cuz he has no right hopefully she's happy with it but now I'm stuck we had

it's just had a baby bird. First of all I'm sorry it's just been cooking issues

precious Finch thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network you can find all of our archives programs on Heritage Radio Network. Com as well as the schedule of upcoming live shows so you can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store you can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information thanks for listening