Cooking Issues Transcript

Episode 371: A Classic in the Moorland (w/ Nick Strangeway of Hepple Gin)

this episode is brought to you by tabard Inn New American Cuisine in one of Washington DC's oldest hotels located in Dupont Circle for more information visit tabard Inn. Com

this is Dave Arnold house to cooking issues on Heritage Radio Network I've been apart of the eighth-ranked community for nine years nine years each week I record my show in the HR and Studio made from to recycle shipping containers because I'm excited to bring you our listeners the most important stories from the world of food but I really food more like you know whatever in the sauce and I happen to be doing at that moment I ain't no technical issues overseer de Tren make food radio because we love it this year is Ryan is celebrating his 10th anniversary but we need your support to keep food radio going strong for the next decade dreaming a drink Community today by becoming a member go to Heritage Radio Network. Org donate right now you can even show some love for my show by selecting cooking issues in the designation drop-down menu and if you hate me but love Nastasia still do that so let's cooking issues and it doesn't Nation drop down menu thanks for listening to hrn

riverglen joint effusion witnessed after they have lipids are you doing a whole lot of fiberglass over the weekend which we have time we can get into so much never heard so much fiberglass you're too old to be inhaling fiberglass on the regular one year old to take him fiberglass to the long we have a in the in the studio tour special guest mix strange way how you doing I haven't seen you in a while the first time I actually got to spend a lot of you want to just he makes a gin have a message in and it's a funky Jam but I think they understand like kind of what's not funkiness back like

production-wise funky and in order to get into it maybe it helps to talk a little bit about kind of your history Nick well by the way calling your questions Jin related or otherwise to 718-497-2128 that's 718-497-2128

you are a bartender before the big Renaissance thing is is that I think one of these is interesting is that not only have you survived but you managed to stay kind of at the rolling front of what's going on so you haven't that you haven't dinosaur doubt you know what I mean you stayed kind of at the at the deleting it now Booker and Dax Wisconsin have a company where the trailing Edge technology where the stuff they can fall off the airplane and still alive that's our motto but you managed to stay in a kind of at the Forefront of what's going on I remember the first time I hung out with you to any extent you were doing like really kind of you were working for another car the time I think you're allowed to talk about it and it was before you came out with kind of your your limited run across the crosswalk

not working with I think it's permanent sure one of the big flavor house and I forgot which one it was looking for a minute was it the other one was interested in techniques of distilling a flavor creation through your consultancy company and then later working making the Vodka so you can you come at this honestly and like tomorrow from for long time working on these kind of problem from the heart that the accurate I think it's very easy to get bored in the bar industry I luckily this relationship I wasn't at the Forefront of you I was always that and it kept me motivated it kept me interested otherwise I'll just talk to him come down something else if I get bored or something else drives me to do things that gate for me what what what is it that drives us and stassi and I don't know I don't know I don't know I'll figure it out I mean

who sings I don't like to write I mean it says there's a thing about cooking in general right bar cooking where you have to be able occasionally to Zen out and get produce I mean otherwise this is the wrong industry for you very very early on I enjoyed going for walks smoke and I do many things are around healthy but going from little walk through the city and picking things and tasting things that you find along that Wilkins you can forage in the city that was very early on Sunday and gave me to headspace. Don't get in the cage didn't tell me about it both have a love-hate relationship with our with our fine city which I still love New York

I'm lucky I commute into the City by going to London maybe twice a month I get my fix of the city at night and get the hell out of there being too forward you know they exist in conditions I don't have to have it today at ARB are we currently have a New York City for in I tried walking down the street of a city and you like what's that smell in Pleasant there's a good chance it in temperate Region 2 mean we're not like a honeysuckle kind of an area or Linden flowers amazing smell right lemoncloud amazing Nitro model the Linden into a light cuz it's a lightsaber into plymouth's cuz it's light and simple that's it like Linden simple lemon and and

I want to see what they look see is color is this a Cajun or a cooking or just a random rant related question it is a cooking related questions on a podcast a while ago you didn't mention getting into a tiff with someone on Chefs about the use of tongs is it more than an aesthetic issue or I wanted to understand the pros and cons been so it was my brother-in-law Wylie Dufresne Dave Chang the number of other people on the anti tongue side and I think what it is is

that generation is there all my age or younger you know my way around my age that generation you know I think they just saw the tongues of the sign of disrespect it that someone would go grab let's say that the example they always say what are you going to get a big get a nice piece of fish and you can grab it with the tongues and flippin the further cuz I know that's not what songs are for doesn't mean Tom's hat don't have a place in the kitchen so I think you know they saw a bunch of younger cooks that they deemed floppy who are using the tongs and ways that damaged food right now you're not talking about like it home on your grill you know you're moving stuff around with tongs to like that but the other talking in their kitchens when someone's like flipping a piece of fish they wanted to see a fish spatula maybe if you need extra support a spoon or something over it gently flip it over and Aiden wants to see

kind of

yeah roughed-up roughhousing with the tongues that was their main gripe my only issue with Tom's is is that if you should ever make the mistake of going into a deep fryer with tongs once and then lifting your hand up and having the hot oil run down the inside channel of the tongs down your wrist you'll never make that mistake again sometimes can have their dangerous aspect to for sure but I mean I mean, talk to my right

I'm protons I'm also Pro you know telling people in your kitchen flip this the way you want you know what I mean don't rip things about with tongs but whatever

so you have a spritz bottle for luggage in three bottles of water of not one of water clear I'm assuming distillate and a spritz bottle so what's going on here when we started making the gym I think there's a too much respect for tradition in the detailing business most technology is being used as 19th century technology and like you are not ever talk to Rota vaccine this feeling under pressure and we decided we're going to always use a road trip at some point I'm going to throw away the bay where the buses are we going to copper pot still and then they're asleep throughout the world and he has been banging on about this technology that I still don't completely understand goes supercritical gas extraction so we combine all three

what we find is a crates full of flavor we get flavors Yukon CAT5 traditional distillation traditional distillation is limited but essential

Show me the super critical you're doing like supercritical CO2 then then putting that bass into what so we do Juniper through a supercritical extract which we then hold into us know and then mix in the end so we basically make a London dry gin on the poster with 11 Botanicals in this Petty classic install then we run 6 Botanical separately through the vacuum still playing those and then we blame the soup Costco gas extract in this one guy but for a 750 person like myself what percentage of that is pot still product what percentage of that is it'll be approximately 70% and then the other bitch go in the front

15% is coming off the vacuum Stills and then the rest is cl2 is very very small this is the CO2 extraction oil and reading the word is he's coming over and that will go into about Alicia and then I'll go across 6 or so $600 and that's this is diluted bleach it down about half and half and 68 ABV

and it's still super funky give me the first I don't really understand the technology things in the stupid wife so when we first tested the machines I was hesitant since disbelieving of it and we went in Tooele barre3 in Newcastle and they turned on this machine which is a very unimpressive looking piece of technology didn't they look like an old computer case that has made things weird noise and when the lab technicians went out a little trip so I can come up there and I'll put it on my finger what is the way I learned so excited I couldn't taste anything apart from juniper for about a week it was so intense I have made the same error with straight flavor compounds in nice

it can be yeah it's not the way to do it but you do understand if I did that once ran away which is the fake concord grape, and I got it all in my mouth is straight chemical in my mouth and it messed me up yeah for like a week I think if we did some gas chromatography and we run it to the CO2 extract and if we're an apostille efficiently we could extract about 60% of the flavor compounds in there because I'm with Lestrange cuz again to see if we can get 90% efficiency

they use it when you guess that's when was when I was looking to buy my technology Californian websites me is that in a few years back when I was at the French culinary which you know I haven't been actively in a long time you know we're always looking for those two things we're always looking to do extract flavors separate flavor that's basically nine out of ten or you know extract you know solid liquid that was always the game Uno with a lot of the orc retextures that was the other game you know what I mean that we're playing with the kind of new techniques and I always wanted to have a supercritical CO2 but the price was just out of out but no one was doing it on a pilot level and even the pilot machines were built for Labs at 4 going to do it bigger so they weren't inexpensive and I really did not expect even within shooting Divya you know any of reasonable and.

wine with the pressures involved in the semen such a smart idea cuz you know prices are high very high and I mean thanks to the drug industry potheads because I think the more potheads want to do this on a smaller scale the more chefs and bartenders are going to be able to use this technology you want me like you can get a rig down now for like ten grant writer Some like this Earth would look good with all that technology the most people use I'm in front of bats with I already I have enough I have enough trouble this. See right around we have enough trouble getting people to use a center fuse with the training imagine the training that goes with a rotovap to get the flavors you want out of it

really control around on that the training is just this at this a cool place in London Uncle Chris Brown with you thanks Chris. How do you spell City going out and pull out a centrifuge and bartenders can rent them by the hour now and then you can go use it whenever you like him in years I haven't seen him back since back when he was at 69 Colebrook Road you still got back like let's say let's say your eyebrow came in all of a sudden black when they are we going to taste it

43 digit family stands I think when we started

I would have probably made a cytomel curable forage Ferrell and then as time went by I start noticing that every nerve USP on it take an extra Botanical in the u.s. pay for those who don't know that's unique selling proposition 6 been around for a hundred years and with classic and they were about Juniper right and also like the more the closer you hit one of those things the more versatile it's going to be for someone that does it mean if your gym

is whey very different right it's going to work in a couple cocktails you get people to make a signature cocktail with it but I mean I think what tends to happen again when you look at those jeans is when you mix with them one of the Botanical skews and becomes forward and it's never the tune of us a very rare as soon as you have the muscle tone it would it would have been simple mix you running to it it'll be the cause when the pups out till then whatever he's at every photographer there besides spins out a juniper gin we have our own June 4th Atlanta to the gym if he was always an inspiration so if he came up with the saying Focus back in on the Juniper juniperus problems yes this is the Juniper problems are twofold in the UK

a little bit like the Luxor in the 19th century there are a couple of things that are white pant University UK there's a little insect bug something using it and is also a multi we're really lucky we're in the middle of a national park we have a military shooting range one side of a sudden. Because that privately said there's no way that people can get this shit that's why I like what the hell is it more exactly two-thirds Aurora imagine in Scandinavia few more switch my list if you imagine what Scotland looks like that is more than generally it's

I love is Heather a lot of bracken wild blue Breeze flavors that cold in the UK so I can rub and it tends to change color comes sneakers really bright green in the summer juice to the blueberry plants are the flavors of really Vivid green and no bus acid green color and it's sitting down to eat some peaches to Kate Upton compressor turns on water goes is where they sell tea isn't quite so high and the junipers

we have I believe will be five or six hundred years old I mean that most people name that steals we have Miriam if I think is approximately 500 years old at the base she is about three or four feet across now Juniper which is not such an agust or magisterial saying you are these are they still because of where they grow are they low and spread out are they the weather where we are in this sentence telling in the beautiful but it's pretty wild-eyed it's not massively cold but it's horrendously windy so they tend to be growing inside little valleys and I are hunkered down against the elements they all twisted in the old and they follow the Contours of the land

it looks like the typical Italian and old feelings and hacks of the more loving to the Hilton what you just texted it to Greenwich nobody is one person started using green Juniper we use the green because the green the Juniper take two and a half years to ripen on the bush Tony Robbins on the female but the males and females we have a lot of males we've only active want to see if any females you have knives

but because of the age of this Juniper or these Juniper plants they all unique and the green has a sudden when you smell the green it has some sort of like Sandalwood Drive in Catholic church where you swing those fresh like all their note you know what I mean Nana just one you get you know as mix at a very high capture rate of the flavors involved also you're under vacuum so there's almost no oxidation of compounds and there's little to no depending on how you running it little to no heat so it's the

gravitation supercritical of the stuff that you can normally accomplished its kind of always got the freshness the high notes all of that stuff which is which is very nice know I'm interested so tree to tree how different is the flavor even like with the same brightest cookies it like a mulberry tree where two trees one is garbage in one's delicious with any luck either because the Distillery is in the heart of where we produce a lot of the Botanicals we can taste them during the clothes we have two years to run up to it so he sold them over the seasons and so we now have a specific types of your way we think the flavors right from Bush to Bush I don't think this is a huge difference so we don't Harvest a black juniper berries to use in the gym we Harvest them to propagate ball Juniper bushes so we have a propagation program because of the diseases

paranoid about it so we have several hundred plants and propagation from the blackberries we let the animals take back and we probably got a standard warehouse or she knows from does it matter to you it does make a big difference in the pot still we run Macedonian and Italian the flavor profile of them and we also have to be honest I didn't particularly like the flavor profile but they didn't taste as robots the green beans very very distinct regular Juniper's Great Canadian regions you'll find it popping up constantly

do you like it I like it as well. In my eye strain seeds

let's go to kick to it in the back. Just it's the same proof so it's not the alcohol is what chemical is just coming through distillation you're not getting sugars no oils to CO2 extraction it gives a mouthful just different I think what you truly want to send the Chivas and the flavor profile is drastically different to self

there is in this way any industry in every industry there are things that get a bad name for a good reason and then people can't get around why those things got a bad name and so they can't wrap their head around someone using something for a good reason for her so I've always said this is that if you're doing something to make product better than you're doing a good thing if you're doing it to make it simply to make it cheaper than doing a bad thing now there are a lot of people who are against extract base to Chin right because it seemed as the kind of fake adulterated bathtub variety where you just buying chemicals and and and making a gym now

someone who doesn't kind of understand what you're doing could see the use of of supercritical extract as extract based in making I would argue that you're just trying to control the flavor even more and clearly it's not making it any cheaper it makes it more expensive to have that problem the only being a dish with you have your purest or we are we thankful we moved beyond that London try being seen as the epitome of the heights of good quality gin is a fatty like cake idea if it's not London Drive then tell me something I mean it's like cuz it's a standard

I think the more we talked about using technology and the mall it's a number like the food business in the four properties of cost when you put it in the hands of the guys will it exhausted changed it seems being the devil is who's that was the fight to show that using technology in the kitchen or in bar as long as you're using it for the right reason you're doing an honorable thing it was a huge party like a lot of the Old Guard back then we're just they would beat on you you know what I mean like it would be tan you call industrial call you you don't even like

I think we have to talk about technology technology is important that I cannot get through tradition I'm interested if you like them or not is a different thing but the creation of flavors in the exposure flavors through technology it's got to be a good thing if your goal is what I'm getting off your goal is not to produce something with a bunch of different flavors from what Jen would normally have right cuz that's been done by a million Temple and you're not out to just try to make you know I'm going to remake be for I'm going to Happy Feet or remake tank people drink Gordon's anymore anyway I mean there's nothing wrong with it

a different and unique selling proposition and you know I feel very simpatico with that because I am not trying to make things are wacky I just want to do it the way I'm doing it to get the flavor of you I'm off to flavor I'm interesting flavor I've been the reason I like the Bible is because it deals with flavor like the food world as well but I'm not

this episode is brought to you by tabard Inn Tavern in Washington DC is quintessential hotel is located on a quiet tree-lined street just five blocks from the White House if I bring it on assuming the tavern is comprised of 40 sleeping rooms each unique in character and design based on an Eclectic American Cuisine in their acclaimed restaurant or enjoy a cocktail and listen to live jazz in one of their cozy Victorian seating areas mingle with travelers from around the world to find the tabard the only place to stay when taking their travels to Washington for more information visit tabard Inn. Com call you on the air I hear it's urgent and we're just going to get a bunch of different charcuterie including I'm leaning toward the story on and ham I know you have to choose with that is great I don't like the name right

we just wanted something American but with yeah that Europeans. To be flies really really really thin the issues that because of the venue we have storage and transportation issues so we're going to have to do it ahead of time for all the sharks Victory by time particularly worried about the hand cuz I just want to make sure that we can try and do for that yeah I like and we can't put him if we don't have like a vacuum you like saver anything like that right so like okay full disclosure Patrick Martin's Heritage Foods is the founder of this radio network but did you buy it through did you buy it through Heritage or did you get it directly from Sam Edwards I haven't bought it yet so if you have a suggested when I was about to pull the trigger on that like this week as soon as possible push you know the house brand here

Patrick Patrick Martin's in Heritage Foods they get a lot of a Heritage breed meat that's their deal right and a lot of their things that they get are like very nice very highly marbled and over the past five six years they've been selling raw hams to some of the better producers so you're you're Newsome's which is man seemed happy who was at the bar the other day which is a fantastic ham and also Sam Edwards asturiano and he has a couple others but then a lot of them are sold back to and distributed by Heritage Food so if you want American ham kind of American taste but you really want like a highly marble like really kind of unctuous ham I have tried a bunch of them and they are delicious so like to see what they see what they have and also Patrick will guarantee the age on a ham so you know he's he likes to take ones that are a year or better

I know that you know once you get over about a year they start slicing better than not going to be as wet and this is going to be an issue for you if you take a 9 month old ham and slice it and it was sliced fine right now but I'm storage it will gum up a lot more than like a Hammett age for a year likewise Hammett has more fat as long as you don't get it hot has more fat butt is more aged will tend to hold better once it's sliced then one that is you know got more moisture and and less fat that's just likes to tell life but now and I also have to say it obviously that like in the world of spice things you would rather have someone slice your salmon for you right now and eat it too much rather have that than by pre packaged sliced you know lock sarnova in my in my book you know if you've never had someone sliced Nova or lox for you and then eating it right away you have nots

add the proper smoked salmon ham is similar not quite as bad but don't despair your main problem is going to be separating them out and if you can get like that waxy butcher paper you got to get someone cut right brand wax paper that you buy in the supermarket is not durable enough and the moisture in the hand will wrinkle it and then it'll get nasty get the get nice stuff like a butcher would use and or like a like a dipaulo's here New Yorker Deli has and if you layer the slices consistently you can overlap in a little bit and it should peel apart but you overlap them and then always have the one layer on paper and not on the other you'll be able to separate them and present them nicely on a thing that's really the only way to do it you get them on the paper you get in full the paper like triptych style as long as you're never fully Ham on him ever and then wrapping that excluding the oxygen from it so that the the fat doesn't

oxidized and you should be able to keep it in relatively fine feather for a for the big day got it awesome

anything else for the wedding you're not catering yourself are you please tell me you're not I am not catering but I set it up like Productions that I do in Los Angeles so I'm kind of used to the vendor thing I will say that like you I also never called my in-laws by name and my mom was super mad when she they found out a couple years back so I totally understand that kind of dig in you know you're certain things I'm too old to change you know I anyway have a good time I hope it all works well let us know how the ham was will do thank you very much so this is the thing is

and I think I like it when I make cups as well as I like the lettering the same flavor in different decorations of the top of her to increase the amplitude of that particular flavor whether it be black cards or whatever so if I make a blackcurrant drink I'll generally use black count to three times in the drink more of that flavor can mixing I call it and then the main thing is it's very classic jet can't water and some I want to see what they say

by the way I hopefully we're not making any mouth noises we had a comment and a question in from last week's show. That one is Asia oh my goodness you should you take while you're pouring this I'm going to read this Nick from Cincinnati rice in

2 minute for once I get this is not unique This is Nico from Cincinnati Cincinnati Cincinnati you can put music in Cincinnati in my head now I got WKRP going through my head another song is going through my head sorry I won't sing it for you because my voice is not up to singing had some loose Selma Hannah stassia I'm looking to buy a searzall which is a piece of equipment at the stop sign manufacturer but the replacement screen seem absurdly expensive 25 to $30 for some little metal scream at the moment this is the only thing keeping me from buying question what makes searzall screen so expensive and two are there any plans to do something to bring down the price welnick

the short answer is is it is this is going to be unbelievable to you I'm literally half the manufacturing price of the entire unit is that one little metal scream they tend not to break in home used by the way like I very rarely do they burn out and that's one of the reasons they're so expensive first of all the rear metal screen is not any normal alloy its employee or inconel if I get to 693 is that agreeing with her single or inconel it's it it was a metal that was developed for Aerospace technology to be in the back end of a turbo Jetts for the exhaust nozzles prior to the development of Ceramics the same thing so no one uses high technology high temperature Metals in that application anymore so there's almost literally no market for this metal in the world anywhere it's made by Corporation Called specialty metal specialty metal would not make wire for us so it's the only metal that we were able to find that can withstand the key

so we had to find someone in China who would do a knock off alloy of this super Metal that's no longer used by anyone and was never used in screen formation then have them make it into a screen we're not done yet that's still was not it's not even all of the cars that's like half of that cost the other part is is that we found that they were still burning out even with the s-693 in it so we have them electrocuted electroplated with Palladium and Palladium a cheap and electroplating with Palladium a cheap now in the future will be able to bring the price down a little bit because it is currently we were not able to sort source and Industrial Palladium producer so it's literally someone who coached jewelry with Palladium don't we use so half the cost of the entire thing for us is that little screen in the back of the good news is we've done a lot of work on that little screen and odds are unless you're really burning in a lot it's not going to break

secondly Matt they don't make those not wanted to do pledge drive on this program anymore unless you buy airtime which is a strong idea I like that end in the last thing is the next thing The Cook's Illustrated by Paul friend of the show Paul the next thing Paul eats on my can be my but he use the a version of butt on my can be my but they've spread it said and pretzels from an MRE for some reason the sociopath just lean right into the mic and shoe disgusting please band Paul I had to turn the podcast off that guy ruined my commute and it's going to come and get you I mean you can try and kick me off the show but that not anyway so it's real real-world repercussions Nick says I have access to military mre's

ready to offer to send some but nevermind now tell Dave to look for omelette MRE is there by far the worst I believe that oh my God all my lights on all the way to the been hell for a long time or just thought I had an airplane on it again recently because Blaze came on remember Blaze came on and I forget what it was but he was like all United's omelette and I was like I'm pretty sure it's pretty garbage kid and he was like climbing first class was like you jump

Alex job he was wanting to stay on United the other day yes so bad in water best jump dimpled it down a little bit goes a long way now here's another thing people like MiMi pine trees really different flavor notes in Juniper there are pining notes in Juniper but pine trees that are similar to Huffines in both yeah

yeah but they do taste similar which

like I loved it but it has a very pine needles Spruce needles Pine Hills have a very kind of polarizing hard resin hit the Juniper Juniper doesn't have as much of that hard resin hit what do you say it definitely is softer than the play nothing again we use Douglas fir and Douglas fir vodka and it depends how you treat your Botanical what flavors you extract from your Botanical so if you stop to dry Pine

you'll get more test result of notes come up when you get these very ripe tropical to the nights come out once the drying process. I know you have to rest the drying process to capture those flavors you take it straight up the trees be kept as people imagine that I'm going to go ahead and say that I hope nastase and I never have to distill another pine tree

I love to sleep on trees we had by the pine tree take it you know take it up to our our lab and major air quotes was a garbage room and Smith rip all the needles off by hand well all of these prospective students were coming by and they were like I don't know how many hours it take us to the still at poultry

what you know how when you're in a taxi cab and the taxi cab driver is on the phone with somebody and you're like sometimes like it'll just be like a conversation the dropping of the silent when they get back on this and then they start talking again that like if I were a taxi driver you would be the person on the other end of the phone even if we're like taking down a tree we're still talking about stuff and laughing you're saying yes you are and yeah you are my person on the other end of the phone and bar Convent Brooklyn you can come chat with him about he has to make sure I say is Ford ever come chat with him about hepple great product he'll be there at 1:20

tomorrow again go say hello it's so yesterday right and we're serving Kendra how to do you know her drink the Sunday brunch with you again bass cranked we were using using Gars Tim Smith he was and we did it we took his is relatively low in sugar so I did 2 oz which is 60 for you the slow and then just 3 oz is 90 mL of water carbonated it just like at at at the event just for just for giggles and put a lemon twist over the top of that OnPoint smell great everything slow is a winter drinks we just met

Fado's Americans that remember it it tastes like poison because we've only had bad Suites ugly Suites Italy Sweden like you know I don't know I probably made with clothes that have been loyal to Oblivion into some sort of paster jelly and perlino put on slow jam when are you coming out with you as soon as I open this year so it's good product anyway so what happened yesterday and then getting to the heart of the story and dude dropped the glass we here for that you dropped a glass right in front of my station now when you're working and an event right usually not always easy to get around your station to the front. I mean it's kind of like your barricaded there's a bunch of dudes

glass and he makes the classic mistake of trying to pick up the glass for you I'm like I'm like stop stop like dumb and I want you and I do the same thing because you want it help as a guest or as a customer I recall yourself please don't do that like here's what you don't understand I don't want you to do that not really because I care about you I theoretically care about you in general right but like in reality what it is is is that if you cut yourself my day just got so much worse you know what I mean like what you say about this when I shouted Customs if they're about to do something that will hurt it hurts but I really don't want you to be bleeding everywhere during my service because then we're really going down you know what I mean so step away and let the to the profession

so then I'm moving the trash I'm going around like I'm like fending off this guy where was a bad break to like lots of big curve pieces to be straight up in people walking around with to the summary here with their open toes and all of the stuff I like I got to get out and feel like I'm pulling the trash can out that I can get out behind my station and a ladies so interested in throwing away her plate of garbage from Morimoto next door who was the chef next door as I'm doing it she still throws and just throws his plate of like old sauce all over my pants and I'm like really really really really 48 years on this planet and this is what this is this is it

people have some respect for the person is trying to serve you that's all I'm saying I don't know we got to go I'm getting rid unfortunately of my house in Connecticut so I'm no longer going to have any outside of the city space to think about and it was a real strong outside of the city was like Forrest and like you know dear snake code the whole whole nine yards sassafras everywhere you can you can make feel a four-month lindera benzoin which is an interesting Little Berry that no one uses because it's not fast but it's which potential General Garden is safe but has been used for centuries anyway so

because I have to condense all of my books into one place which is an apartment in New York for the first time in my life I have to get rid of books which is hard I don't ever get rid of Boku secret I had to get rid of I had to get rid of like almost half of my books that had to go through and be like okay certain things that I've never read that I've always meant to read not going to do no need anymore gone the concordance of the Bible okay I have the internet I don't need that anymore then a bunch of things. My wife was like you really need that and my response was that the classic in the field right right if I ran on field so I'm going to do like he usually I think we should do a mini segments here called classic in the field I brought one

last week you weren't here Nick but I was talking about this is my beater copy which were the effects of nuclear weapons as an amazing book put out by Nine States government back when they were actually worried about winning a nuclear confrontation and this is the actual book it's intense I'm not going to discuss that it was brought up I just want to prove that this was a book now this is a book we're going to talk about it's called Sawyer's paper-bag cookery now be careful when you flip through this because it's for 1911 this is the first American Edition came out a little bit earlier in England is either 11 or maybe a year earlier 1910 in England English book fair because of the era the papers are very fragile they're very brittle because it's a sandpaper so a little bit about this book which is a classic in the field so when I was a child when I was a child every couple of years there a new recipe with become popular for paper bag this and paper bag that remember this name

paper bag cooking definitely was a thing and it kind of Fades out and comes back I first learned about it because of President Eisenhower's daughter whose Name Escapes Me wrote a book and can had paper bag Chicken in every week when I was a child I would make paper bag chicken so the paper bags chicken I would make I use my own personal. Five-spice my five-spice make some time was salt pepper paprika curry powder garlic powder because now the kid and I think I spoke about this before I put garlic powder on actually everything I would rub hand rub cold butter into the chicken then add those thing for Emily for salt throw the paper bag and throw it in the oven and let it cook and the results for a nine-year-old I thought we were fantastic I mean as far as nine-year-old cook chickens go done it many years but anyway

later I became aware of a very famous chef named Alexis Sawyer so spell Sawyer not like sawing things so where is in soy sauce Lexus was some people say the first celebrity chef put up french guy who is cooking for some Prince's Royal you know printers in a note D Prince because after the French Revolution but the aristocrats in France and then ended up moving to England so kind of the exact amount of his de junio used to cook for like Francois mitterrand and to call I think and then came to United States he was kind of like that came to England became a chef at a place called the reform Club is it any good invite you need to be a member of the aristocracy I have a friend

mutual friend of ours named club which at the time was Progressive like Rich aristocracy but like Progressive reform and became a wildly popular Wiley famous chef wrote a book called the gastronomical generator in 1946 that talked about professional kind of high-end cooking 1846 professional high in cooking he had won the first kitchens in the UK with gas leak from mfk Fisher by the way the way that you use to learn about things that you would read a book okay and then in that book that author within talk about books that she had read right now and I actually got a liquid intelligent I would talk about where I learned things to wear sources and come from her ideas that's how I used to learn is that like authors would say things like this are in bibliographies or annotation so

turn about the gas around with the generator which was V book of its kind in English obviously you know in French. He then also when the Potato Famine when the great when the grape starving started happening he wrote a book some what some of the stuff so much as it did not working misguided but soup kitchens for for the Irish and he was interested in cooking for poor people a pre-written is rich person's book he wrote several people Poor Poor People's books also invented a cookstove during the Crimean War that was in use by the UK for field cooking call the Sawyer so it was in use into the 1980s but he died very young age of the Lowe's in his grandson was also his grandson Nicolas first when I saw this book 1911 like that's not right that Nicholas

his grandson and his grandson invented paper bag cooking now now that might not be a big deal to you before anyone that grew up in the wheel thing in the very first paragraph of this book Series in 1911 so you think that we're lying is garbage paper bags were first invented mass-produced paper bags were invented in 1852 the first flat-bottomed paper bag was invented in 1871 and the first pleated paper bag that we have was in 1883 so it's about the right time Brooklyn seventies or eighties you weren't worried about chemicals in your bag now is it wasn't what you're worried about and we didn't have plastic back everything came in a paper bag every house had a bunch of paper grocery bags in them but that was the only method to get your groceries home because one none of us were carrying around little nylon satchels and there were no plastic bag so

so he invented this but right away he says it's the same thing we've been doing forever I'm copy out but now we have these convenient bags and at the time actually he was saying that the paper bags are manufacturing were quite polluted with whatever they're making with because I think we should try to talk his own bag but he basically says if you use the regular you know paper bags for 1910 or 1911 it's going to giving off flavor to your foods you should buy us back but all of the all of the advantages of cooking on top of your load and I might do this in my book The Miracle moisture management coming up because it is I am I am going to write anastacio a paper bag on puppy out in paperback cooking is a form of moisture management combination Steam and then once the initial team goes way roasting technique that is kind of kind of cool so this you're holding the very first paper bag cookbook Nicholas lawyers paper bag kukri 1911

I'm taking a photo of it so I can I have my my collectible copy at home I bought this because I was missing the nuclear detonation bomb calculator in the back make sure the way you buy your copy it has it's a slide rule in circular form of how to calculate how far away you are and how many seconds is going to take for the blast to get to you versus how many kilotons to megatons the bomb is the news by the time that you have read it off of the slide rule it is too late too late Bob right by the way if you want to hear more classic in the field editions such as pigeons how to make them pay or anyting

which is the classic on raising pigeons for food you know just let me know on at cooking issues my Twitter let me know that you want to hear more of them and I will bring more class in from the field in a bob right about Bentonite hope this is the right email

I'm a winemaker I obviously if I'm bleeding and it's already know Mom Vineyard manager in Green Bay Wisconsin currently running through your back catalogue season but considerable profits have been made in Great Britain by Cornell in the University of Minnesota I have Cornell's old book called The Grapes of the New York would you put out by the Cornell extension and it had its the state of the art of the American great breeding up till about 1910 and it's I think the most expensive of all of the fruits of New York series you can get it on the Google and I believe you can also get paper bag for carry on Google books do you want to look at it unique challenges such as high protein content which brings me to my question we have to use a lot more Bentonite for these new coat of arms in the old men Affair to make a table I'm not afraid of a rhombus ripping a but the amounts we need result in a lot of loss of product quick tonight I think it's Aromas gripping ability is greatly exaggerated the only concrete science I seen

the study that shows at the Bentonite strip chocolate and Cherry Aromas the given that we only use it on white wine is not an issue in the past you, turn on fast breathing slow sign or maybe slows breathing fast on your sub mixture and how many parts to protein is in an egg yolk and how to avoid rubbery Frozen egg I suspect freezing and thawing the grace in the right manner might denature proteins and result in lower Bentonite using why because every time I make ice wine the wind is always protein stable without new treatment that said ice wine has a lot of things going on it could be something else I would still like to try it on small-scale to test a theory how do you think I can most effectively denature the protein in grapes bad for you to find fast flow thanks in general is very interesting so with egg yolks what's happening is how do you freeze something

the water you get less and less water the proteins become more and more concentrated so as their concentration goes off sometimes they can partially teenager that's what's happening in egg yolks so that when you freeze an egg yolk and then thawed out it never turns liquid again because the proteins have kind of coagulate I guess it's the wrong way but they kind of denature little bit come together if you fast. A fast freezing egg yolk then it does not do that because I freeze it so quickly that it just freezes in his confirmation and then goes back so if you drop an egg yolk a liquid nitrogen a free to talk I thought back it's called liquid again so the answer here is your looking too damaged things and if you want to damage something there's no better way to damage it in the freezer it slowly so I would say freeze it slowly on Bentonite stripping the amount you're using and wine are far less I think than the stripping that happened in cocktail round like I'd be able who use bentonite

Arab people use bentonite like a load of Bentonite into things to get out flock and other things in a cocktail and in large quantities it does Strip by the way I'll say this any clarification technique strips flavor

because it wasn't clear and now it is meaning you taking something out odds are that thing has flavor certain clarification techniques are more damaging of flavor even insoluble things. A egg white

skip flavor a lot and used in high quantities gelatin agar a little bit less the reason we use wine fining agents kieselsol which is suspended silica and Titus and which is shrimp shells are fungal you can get because I use those as I find it there the most gentle ones that you can use from flavors can point to get the results I want will say I use the minimum amount to try to get the results I need just because I don't really want to strip any more flavor than that again I need to sometimes I trip on purpose and I'm purposely stripping flavortown but casings another thing is good flavored out like a demon that said I was give you a tip for those who that has spends all switches are centrifuge out there at the bar unbeknownst to me typically I use to ml per liter of kieselsol with your suspended silica and then two of kind of sand and two of the pieces all again

the bar has unbeknownst to me switch to using for all the time which is the amount of the enzyme that I use and I can't tell I have no side by side but I can't tell any extra flavor tripping and does tend to make the product more Bulletproof on Clarity so if you want to move up to four move up I go out try hepple gin available in new what are your markets are in here where in New York State's by a virus in New York is on like that there is a way of getting its California I will give it a try it's the only dream that you're going to have that has a supercritical CO2 vacuum and classic classic pot distillation in it and wait with Noah

you're not doing any notaries in pot no, huh because he's trying to get the results that he wants to get and the long line of Nick trying to avoid working real hard to try to get the flavor results he wants to get to get the rest of the day you're not done keep working

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