Cooking Issues Transcript

Episode 288: Bag Juice Blunders

this episode is brought to you by Jewel the emergent circulator for sous-vide by chefsteps order now at joule

the roughly one special guests in in the booth today in the shipping container we have of course you know what wait what are you you're a regular you like a regular stereo from formerly of cooking Universe formerly UC Davis and currently doing the food thing at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology true so I can get from being the fellow of the director to being the director of what

old school sorcery The Familiar is the is the person that the Devil comes and and the witch is the Witch and The Familiar is a personification devil on the standing for the devil on Earth and wonderfully today in talking cat form today while listening chime in there is that the one the only Peter Meehan I don't know you tell me what your title what you want your title to be I'm just going to say food media impresario I think that gives me too much credit I am the editor of the currently Doom food publication lucky Peach

which were wrapping up work on right now and I write cookbooks and I'm just happy to be here with you guys to eat pizza and and and and also an apt description of the last six years of my work we're all doomed we are all doomed in the needle this weekend it's like this days of execution are over so I'm just at the point where I'm like can I get six orders of McDonald's french fries and some ice cream and top that things are just going to come and watch when it happens at this point for death

Agnes Scott and I talked a little bit about it last week's I wasn't Scotland like a week and a half ago or something like this and I'm learning bagpipes again and again was there a time at which previously you had experience experimented with bagpipes 15 years ago there was a 16 there is a society in like the Upper East Side that was like so then I went to said lesson I bought two bagpipe is one of the very few instruments where no one allows you to play the actual instrument for a long time after you started learning it because it's just so horrific the idea of you inflating that bag and just going to it is so horrifying everybody that they don't

Believe It or Not nastassia sounds worse than a recorder if there is possible to have an instrument that is more grating on the nerves than the recorder it is the practice chanter for all intents and purposes is a slightly quieter real chanters that thing that makes a note on a bagpipe practice for like a couple of months on my practice as soon as I get ready to get a real set of pipes I laid into the bag once and Jen my wife was like absolutely not this is over it all got thrown away like I was thankful he was like anyway anyway but like that was a long time ago and I only had the apartment New York then about six months ago I was like I'm going to learn again and I hit the practice chanter wants my son Booker was like I'm going to break that in half you're an idiot like this is your bad human being why are you doing this and Jim my wife was like yeah right

electronic bagpipes wow genre natural build-up and reveal yes you have to plug your ears into it I need to take some lessons because I need to get good enough at bagpipes to play a song when we open the bar which is extremely aggressive since that like what I hope to open you know sometime around August so it's extremely aggressive to want to be able to play night job you just have to be confident enough to do it in public

last week we were talking here and I was describing how I had dinner with you and you know the guy next me happens to be the lead singer of pavement and I freaked out and no one here had listen to pay me just to show you kind of what kind of people you're dealing with the people you're dealing or where was this taken Scotland but if it hasn't your Scottish listening listener should really eat tuna in fridge in The Proclaimers like that says oh my God you were coming here you're saying you had to listen to self because your staff before you send them on their merry way

listening right now when will probably won't bother us with phone calls so no I just I was surprised when there was not a wide awareness of the works of Public Enemy so that's really office music like yeah we listen to is like 1991 the enemy strikes black in the life of the Arizona governor how old are you 46 I'm going to be 40 this fall and I feel like for four Dudes of our age that was like the thing with listen to NWA like growing out but now

I'm doing the Westchester White Boy like the hands to the lips but that's the Westchester white boy right there where did you have a bad reaction to the wall or what ocean it back if you don't eat your meat Dave can't have your pudding

I did it all the time he doesn't know what the hell I'm talking about because my wife hates the wall and so I can't really listen to it to my daughter at the table the whole thing you're an old creep but I identify what kind of love you're either a mighty technical questions your how to shutdown a magazine with style questions your food media questions you are asked questions or any questions you have a you know dedicated either to me Dave Arnold or Dave in the booth at to 718-497-2128 that's +718-497-212-8300 call or you're on the air

hello Dave hi hi hey I'm trying to make a phone that's similar to the head of a Guinness that can sit on a carbonated beverage gelatin Samsung marshmallow fluff to my base but it still over clothes when added to the beverage if you're even powdered egg whites I wanted your advice is great for that that's what Sam Mason used to use so F50 every night he literally used to make a Guinness phone with a 50 Cent Mason for those of you that I know we're born yesterday it's like one of the great Patriots of all time then went on to be an excellent Savory shaft at Taylor and now it's like an ice cream magnate in Brooklyn at 50 and whenever I was doing Foams for things I would I always gravitate towards of methylcellulose F50

remember you have to whip at 50 for a long time there has to be something in it that wants to foam like some sort of like protein or whipping agent in along with the FSC that really helped it along and also remember you going to do that in a KitchenAid and you're going to spoon it on top you're not going to try to put it out of an easy Whip and you're not just you know otherwise yeah it's going to be a freaking nightmare if you try to inject the whole thing and have the phone rise to the top your life is over don't Shear type of situation is outboard texted in a blender then put it into my KitchenAid in like do it is the one thing it won't work well in typically is milk systems some people like versawhip I never liked versawhip because sometimes even when first whoops going to work it like takes its sweet time about it so you'll be sitting there with the KitchenAid with the beater at a time.

just fix a KitchenAid this morning this morning I fix a KitchenAid have you ever reassembled an entire Kitchen Aid and then looked down and you left one washer out of the exact middle of the gearbox sounds like you back is me if you had done that you would be living my this morning

excellent thank you very much and yeah so I don't know what do you know the kids are you a fan of the KitchenAid stand mixer yeah why wouldn't I be a fan of the KitchenAid stand mixer for living she was a baker at the time now she's doing something else for that cord stand mixer in some sort of exotic strains buttercream yellow color and now my wife is like bummed that we don't have it anymore and I'm worried I'm going to have to like Indian give that with my friend she going with the swap for the Breville have you tried the Breville stand mixer Breville sent me a couple years ago or a year ago basically every freaking thing that they make like stuff that I didn't even know like was a thing

you could make like like a tea maker I didn't know that you needed a teammate turns out you do you do you need a key maker did not send me the stand mixer I then tried to how's it going to go get the stand mixer

and if that's a hard one or not pushing the stand mixer very hard so that's actually the more difficult one to like beg borrow and steal around and I've had two KitchenAid for 8 billion years and then literally my mother-in-law is like I have this broken KitchenAid I was like I know how to fix a KitchenAid I love you not use the KitchenAid the one I have has the metal gear though I've heard the Revels very nice do you enjoy it as much as I use it but I'm not the baker the family so I don't have like the day today like it gets a little bit jumpy with A Hard Dough on the counter you know like everything gets a little jumpy with a hard shell on the can on my God as a family program

yo collar

Tyler hey question for you that might apply to your upcoming sous-vide book if you have put much thought and attention into awesome things to do with sous-vide bag juices especially in the context of making pan sauces guess here that you hate the word bag juices she's making it her she's making her bag juice face hear some issues with juices so ugly because of the chapter called bag juice and honestly like we all know I'm not allowed to have actually a title for the book but you know if I couldn't get it out but it's not going to be unfortunate management but one of the things about the moisture that exits meat when it comes out of the bag

has a lot of fun coagulated proteins which you know area you can probably watch good about it looks like you have these nasty gray egg whites in it are familiar with this problem yes or you or you didn't understand it said yes I am familiar so if you want it to be slightly clear what I would do is put the pan juices gently bring them up to a boil without losing too much of it and then strain it through for everyone uses coffee filters if I could go back in time and and shoot everyone who did I would not really shoot you know what I mean like you know it's like this way people think coffee filters are there are eight a nightmare like you stream things for coffee filters when we ran out of like cheesecloth yeah horrifying just using Excel

so long as it's clean and doesn't have any holes greens like a mother and filtered pretty well do you agree area because I have never told anyone to go buy cheesecloth because they're going to go to the supermarket and they're going to buy what amounts to medical gauze and that isn't that what what is a useless it's useless it's like it doesn't deserve to be called cloth it's gone. It's not me that's why they have the word gauze as a separate thing from cloth like it's horrifying we're not making mommies we're trying to filter things so you should definitely never use that garbage so I would stream the dish towel that your mother-in-law

bought for you at like an exhibition or something it would have sent her to see a gigantic green stains on it the depends on how you feel about your mother-in-law really like if you're using something that you also if you're straining something that's green that hasn't been cooked yet it's also going to turn black which is like it's been through it but like I don't know they're all worried about the cloth are worried that it's been treated with some sort of something to wash it first thank you put it through the washer and then you have like a stack of like clean usable filters

what else to do with me juice from their way of bags you still feel like let's say you're the kind of person who who is doing low temperature Braves work but say you're that kind of a person I don't know what you are saying is a lot of low temperature to braise work okay well one day to tell you is that most of your guests customers will prefer a high temperature Braves because it's going to have more meaty flavor but low temperature braces have their place are interesting texture they're good for plating out Exedra Exedra you can cut them okay so don't feel like a short rib Banks or any of these things that you're going to actually put a sauce in the bag with it like our or like Coco van or one of these kinds of things right

leftover juice at the end of the bag process you have your bag people always always always always make a mistake of not reducing the bag sauce and not because they're not accounting for the dilution of the bag

chooses happens is when you add could have no reduction in a bad people there's no reduction where we're at with gelatin ping pong balls like reduced it's going to taste like a freaking like a freaking potiphar like a freaking coach piece of meat and do you want to post peace to me know if you want to push me to meet what would you have done if you would have poached it right I would have low temperature supposed to mean that if you don't want a poached meat texture if you don't want that potiphar textures I just been over reduce your stuff because you got to worry about the juice is now then you can

that stuff you still have to hit it with some energy and strain it through a dish towel or you going to get those nasty flow float floaty bits for Pangea so I should over reduce my sauce to account for the bag juice dilution if you don't you're a bad person and then I need to strain it through a dish towel that mother-in-law yes after you heat the water comes out of the bed you have to heat it to to coagulate the non coagulated globular extracted globular protein obviously and then strain that to your mother-in-law's

would you put it over Buttered Noodles well you need to probably thicken it still against lightly with you some sort of liaison maybe during money for the I would not use club for that unless it was a unless you cool it off and then just whipped it in but that sounds super gross super super gross but out of a bag is always need brightening so you need to kind of brighten it up if you're doing a lot lot of it you can refresh me with a little bit of fresh meat or you can just hit it with a little bit of acid or a little bit it's going to be a little bit of something and never comes out of the bag tasting like bright and and fresh another thing I'll say about the

the juice that comes out was going to say it was something it was important now my God it was important was like the key thing and now it's just out of my grasp it was a key to using the juice it was a key to using the bag juice if you're going to use it so like if you have something in the bag for a long time and it's raw and you haven't cooked it yet right what happens is you develop something called kind of confinement Aroma and you don't you want it you want to not have that in your in your bag juice and also if you're bad if you're if you're using like dry-aged meat with the bone still in it the dry aged Funk from the bone can kind of make the sauce like really funky so just got to make sure if that's what you want just making any sense, what are the worst things you've ever done with that juice like you've tried and failed before I mean I've just heated it coagulated

the worst thing you could do but I just wonder blunders which is that's a chapter right there bag juice blenders in the some acid you know you can do you can use like a small quantity of it and then mounted with butter you can hit it with a bird money if you want I mean I'm a big fat amount of the problem with mounting with butter is you got to be careful and you have to like know the people going to sit right that's like an almond nude kind of a CH if they're not going to sit which you know my family is not going to sit until I get so angry at them that they're like why do you always ruin dinner I'm like it is not me why are you never sitting like why are you why is my own family everything I do and care about the world right leg why do you enjoy my pain so much I hate I hate I hate

five minutes I'm going to serve dinner 5 minutes I'm going to have dinner 5 minutes then we wait until that and then when it comes out then like I need to light some candles oh not now I need to go get them I gave you the five minute warning

and then they bring up the bag piping is an example of why you're a bad person exactly area you'll be pleased to know that newer bagpipes have a synthetic bags so that you don't need to like Snot like some stinking rotting leather Nightmare part of the whole experience for me a bag like originally it was you take a small animal and think about it it's got like holes for three drones a chanter the blowpipe and then one extra you only got to still have one hole and then you know then you're good to go in fact I saw a guy but I saw a guy playing a small goat skin bagpipe where you can see the outline of the goat in Greece win

hey I got an idea Harvey I got this idea what if we put a pipe in it if it's not the new pipe bags have a zipper in them so you can open them and air them out and the really really some of the hospital about yes I do and this is no joke they all recognize I'm not joking they have oysters called moisture management sayings for the insides of background convenience of a synthetic bag but really like the feel of who doesn't but like the feel of a natural like leather bag right you want the convenience of the synthetic and the feel of the

natural to describing my private strong enough for a man but made for a woman that's what I buy any way they make a synthetic bag tote with leather no collar hybrid bag wow and waste management management, right in assuming that back you just have a different kind of station with tax hike in their bag juices in the middle to be used by the gravy separator remember the gravy separator that's right

change your Instagram handle is grease trap that you would have a bunch of enough that you can throw away 20 and still have some left but but my point is is that if you dismiss that you're cooking what's a you're not using a machine would say you're doing the ziplock technique for sale in a piece of meat you're always going to seal it in with a little bit of oil otherwise you're not going to get a good seal around it and so there you can separate the juices from the oil with one of those separator doodads Casino area has a separatory funnel because they don't have a separatory funnel Ariel come on and then you can and then you can use the oil for your garlic bread and you can use anywhere is garlic bread on people garlic bread is was like one of the great 70s Staples where's garlic break on it remains grayed to make garlic bread great again I think we need to make people greatly enjoy the garlic that was the last time you went out and were like I want garlic bread

what is not offered by this thing called garlic knots which is like you go to the guy that was what the hell am I going to do with it or not patient freaking grease on it put some garlic powder on filling the oven for 5 minutes and garlic knots and The Garlic Knot a fundamentally users without the marinara sauce just eat another slice of pizza would you rather have garlic bread instead of the Garlic Knot Winona said you have to do with pizza I'm going to Pizzeria just to get freaking garlic knots and no pizza

it's not a Garlic Knot a ria

you know what I mean in like 20 2017 how to start up anyways not seem like what I still can remember every Tuesday they happened sometime The Garlic Knot thing happened I'm going to want to say like mid-90s I want to say. Do you think that they could help them had used it in garlic bread so they get back to where we want started let's say let's say you're going to take a bread that's like slightly stale and you're going to do I hate what's the catalonians thing where they days mashup Tomatoes pan con tomate it is terrible it's bad like they love it I don't like the bread and the Tomato quality unless it's the right season is garbage if you make it out of garbage to taste like garbage they serve it all year anyways like you can use the meat juices for a situation like that to slightly moist and some hard bread in a rust issue a shin to put some stuff on top of it and it's good

I've done that and then the oil if you're going to use the weather for garlic bread to the separate thing anyways a question to the cooking issues

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tips and tricks does it block. Modernist Pantry. Com or is it actually Dave is brought To Us by both people or what

usually brought you mean to break brought to you like one or two people like it's got two handles you watch TV commercial with glitter and all of these brands are supporting the litter beneath you so you're holding right now that's what that's what this is going to work. You wouldn't say that they brought it to set up a situation viewers like you listeners like you

semantics Dave Santana

back on the sound effects of a fan of like air horns as it but he's he has the Wilhelm scream and scream as one of his air horn effect I don't know she's been Wilhelm scream at me all the time I'm slowly slowly introducing Dax to the Arnold Schwarzenegger Terminator with his works are like Hercules in New York

start with Terminator and I was surprised to see Bill Paxton as one of the Pawn Stars like and then of course what do you what do you introduce into after the Terminator everybody the greatest movie ever made come on Total Recall Commando movie ever made but it's a perfect movie about Catholic life not another good movie and setting up the ridiculous idyllic life is face off right so like a mic in Commando they set up the ridiculous idyllic life that Arnold Schwarzenegger has with Ali

Milano who's right because I probably will beautiful house on a clifftop that's right and he likes his face so they kidnap the daughter put them on an airplane and he has exactly 11 hours to find his daughter and kill everyone involved or they find out that he's not on that airplane in the daughter dies so it's got a time limit he finds Rae Dawn Chong amazing right old school radon Chong I mean amazing so any goes to an island and killed every living creature on this island so it's like perfect reason for everything it's super tight from a movie structure standpoint I introduced him to it to it and then I realize that like bit part again Bill Paxton isn't Commando maybe they were buddies

today maybe you should get them both on the show not enough song is a flying boat Graphics are for singers like just five below the radar and it's five below the radar great Schwarzenegger movies starts with Terminator or is this it for appropriateness of introducing to a child and how old is the child UHD movies walk get your feet wet. The Puma great way to get you then

he was like okay I'm interested in is Schwarzenegger thing so you got to start with the breakout role of Terminator because I mean come on Terminator is a great movie how old is Booker and Dax is his current wife movie soundtracks and how old is Dax so he can handle so y'all. Terminator 2 so I'm like your eyes well you know TT 1000 like shoves his like metal finger thing you know I got what a good movie with the guy that I like but your first of all like why would you redo RoboCop okay we should we should talk about food but Dave what's your favorite RoboCop part I have to

what's your favorite part of Robocop there to stick right in between like the fake commercials actually I like it when you shoot the guy in the name of that Park classic troppo YouTube

don't even get me started with this with this area of a circle

hey David Ryan Collins in Fallston Maryland question for you about SodaStream carbonation I've been going through the past four years by water cuddly carbonated like I do

my question is can you is there a saturation point with the water that most likely but it's very satisfying waste so I probably was a misunderstanding Dave likes carbonated water more than any other human and he likes his water more carbonated more specifically carbonated than any other human I've ever encountered maybe you can hire through some of your carbonation preferences after you address the Sodastream chance of getting marginally more carbonation in I will do it for you know there's not here so I'll say about it what are the issues with the Sodastream is getting the water as physically cold as is humanly possible

could ice cubes in a final and then run water through the ice cubes in the bottle and then I carbonate it and I don't know the person you so I can't say that they are garbage but the like the rules that they have about like cocktails and what not if it just designed the fart valve a little better like you could have done so they could have allowed so many like better things you need to do with your freaking adapter that allows you to adapt the Sodastream to a 20lb tank and then you don't have to worry about wasting the the farts on the on the thing because you're so much CO2 that you're not going to know what to do with a 20 lb tank is the way to go without question a 20 lb tank is the way to go and you should do that like how much do you pay for one of those like weenie little cylinders

I think they're like $15 that's how much do they how much gas station that's crazy it's nuts first of all carbonation should be free just like the internet if she just come like from God it's a right to have water should be carbonated to Saratoga Springs where I never wrote by the way I owe Peter an article and so I was waiting until the magazine close to say hey I'm going to write the article now because it's too late from being burned into my mind. You cannot tell that I'm making thankfully but I am in fact I hate to be naked ever but I am naked in the water because you have to be

I don't know but I've never never ever knew there's always like some scrap of clothing on me at all times but with you naked temporary Arrested Development territory adapter I don't think it cost that actually come to think of it it's funny the person who I saw selling the adapter for the Sodastream was charging an absurd amount for the device so that you wouldn't pay an absurd amount for your CO2 open source that sucker in New York City that will give me like bought bottles of nitrous and the nitrous prices gone up a lot in the past because of the Hell's Angels

no they have a Hells Angels Clubhouse on 3rd Street has a nitrous line out through the wall into a number of the rims so there's just a spigot so you can look at me weird if you were a Hells Angel would you let me into one of your parties and no

anyway the nitrous I plan on doing it again I think what I'm going to do it instead of trying to use the gas mixture like I used to use I think I'm going to premix 20 L bottles of gas and then just use that on a separate carbonation line the problem with the problem with carbonating out of a mixer is it the mixer can only do up to about 60 PSI which is enough to do ice cold water but if you wanted to go into a carbonator I'm probably going to need the max a carburetor can do is about 125 psi and so it's a little bit of percent nitrous 75% CO2 maximum bubble bubble fizzy lifting drink kind of a situation your best isn't because the sweetness of the nitrous in the sparkling water was such a lively bubble back when you were young and your water was Lively

I actually like working like a service or the people that yeah it's like you know you know it's like the light and now you're just an old version of Canada right here I kept you from turning into. No no well yeah your your change into a bag of juice that you would recommend and get the liquid red caps and then so that's what I do I use a bag and I have it in my home in New York City I have carbonation on tap cuz duh I have an ice maker and in the ice machine is my Coldplay and it just runs and tan tap I have a very nice tattoo but

up in Connecticut I have I just have 20 lb tanks with a with a Hosanna and a bag in box connector off of it and liquid bread caps at Katie's usually people complain like you just explain is too hard to pull on a little break if you're too weak to get the bubbles that way then freaking dying of thirst over the years I've loved the voices that you did with your Brooklyn guy in the New Jersey guy I love them all have you ever been approached by anybody to do cartoon overtones or anything like that if you know anyone send them send him or a little Voice work acting at one point we're contemplating doing the Jersey Bible where the entire Bible would be read in New Jersey but then we thought it some people might get offended by it and so

like we never pursued it but that's it right from the chat room for Peter as a little controversial let me read this word for word serious but a casual feeling to a lot of stunt food type content me

waste waste on food as a pejorative or assume I don't I don't I don't think they were doing anything just onto your now than we did back in the day I've always been interested in things are so smart you're stupid so I feel like that in the final issue will work for wish you was working on something for the the website and I turned in from like a 400-word like answer a simple question thing until I get 3000 taste wine and the last issue of of new content we're doing is the suburbs and I was like as if this is so good I wanted to I want to put it in the last issue and so I've made a

a new front of book section 4 Less tissue called Wednesday night wine club and it's going to be populated with Anna hezel who's now it tastes of all these brands of mommy and mommy wines Ridge me to whiten for a little while that was kind of a cool thing to find a cougar crack yeah but a couple ice cubes and then some sparkling water I don't know like I can find any reason to drink any wine sugar and be age appropriate or not it's always it's always a younger man determines the predator

I suppose in that case it's a very like phallocentric view of things sadly didn't take one wants to go so you can send your happy birthday wishes to nastassia Lopez who will be chilling in Rome on the Spanish Steps you know hopefully finally ill Infidel enjoying herself and shame her for what she loves my smashed artichokes

well it is what is a Jewish personal question he'll call her you're on the air and I'm so angry for not liking so it's hard for me to concentrate

tell me about this delicious how do you not like Sage prosciutto veal where you lightly flower and then like sauteed that mother in butter

call Ari on the air. My first question is do you have a favorite film in the Alien series my question is do you guys have a favorite comedic Arnold Schwarzenegger film and my third part is Peter would you mind if I have an employee occurs when home at around 2 today I know I know you heard about that hour or so no that's totally cool

my new my new sign up for emails is you'll never work with his magazine

I've never personally seen an alien movie so I can't I was afraid I don't know I live to shelter has both the guy playing mumblety-peg with it with the with with a knife on a aliens in the second one

Uber account went okay so is are you a twins person or like a Kindergarten Cop have a person I've never seen kindergarten, I your magazine

have you seen a heavy what about the woman is pregnant that's the only one I haven't seen I haven't seen the one who's pregnant I think it's called happened it's called Junior according to our communications director line what's it what's the Beastie Boys song with the n d goes it's on anyways I would have to go with this is probably the best tween is probably the best Kindergarten Cop has a lot of good lines in it but probably twins heartwarming family show like the show Family Show I like his I emulate his the way he parents from Matilda that's my parenting style is Danny DeVito from Matilda ever tried his limoncello

I have not have you run into a huge I haven't had it compared to like pelini's or compared to the Cabo Wabo like we should have a celebrity liquor tasting Soderbergh because I was looking at them ever been inherited it's not talk about that we can get the same music as a tequila and mezcal actually he's a very smart man by the way

or we could drink Crystal Skull beverage of Courts may be a little bit of all I could use a couple more like glass goes my bookcase so everybody could send it because I have all the question I have a bunch of questions to answer next week so we did all colors have enjoyed having you on Peter Evans Road being have on the celebrity liquor thing I'm sure we can make that happen but you have to like tweet on in or telling us asking that you really wanted to have happened because she's the one who gets things done around here when she's not hanging out and round drinking whites in she's the only person why you checking luggage

she like that all the way to check its butt on the way out

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thanks guys cooking issues

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