Cooking Issues Transcript

Episode 245: Dirtbag Buddies

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Jimmy Carbone. A customer a customer customer that they hate you know so we are joined in studio today with Nastassja to hammer Lopez mission that there are people in out there and cooking at your plans don't need to know

at some point this evening Peter Kim will go to sleep and then tomorrow he's going to wake up when he's thirsty at David Letterman used to say he will drink a cool refreshing beverage and it will slake his thirst I mean he's not going to be here till for their benefit so what the hell do they care

people like Peter, I thought that's fine

jacket with me on this at all join in the booth also with Jackie molecules using to join us for lunch but he won't Grace you with his presence on the show you know telephone today with Professor Richard wrangham of the Harvard University apparently giveaway want one was in there

I wish May 3rd I wish I played like a trumpet or anything like brass so that I can put a over the front of it and make that noise I mean classic in your face more time

who have is about oh my God I can take up my amateur career and boxing and I don't have an amateur to ring boxing with my I like my eyes over the weekend I literally tore a muscle in my arm in advance of them blue means I don't know my wife is like you need to go to the doctor I'm like what the hell are they going to do about it my arm hurts what is a torn what is a torn Thing feel like they went or anything ever does anyone know what a touring thing that I know of I mean I've broken things it hurts like hell like down but I guess I can go but I can't extend my arm

I can't extend my arm like I can't like punch massage head much as I want to with my left hand or like do like fish pumps in the air of Victory with my left arm anymore because of intense sharp pain if you tore a muscle

UK to be releasing whatever that stuff is and he'll die like like there's some kind of fat Buddies the craziest freaking theories file Dirtbag buddies great band name

use the term Dirtbag by you so much that I've actually called dax's friends Dirtbag buddies in front of the Dirtbag buddies parents by mistake. You're a kid you're getting out of dirt bag I mean they are you know what I mean as I am want to be at the dump and I picked up a someone threw away a boat turned out it was a maid for the Sears and Roebuck Corporation in the mid-60s it is a 14ft fiberglass Runabout all I need to do is fine and I can't find an owner in the house

yeah it's like you can't just like I suddenly show up at the DMV with a car and being like hey where to come from. I found it you know what I mean you can't do that with the boat either dump going to write you an affidavit yeah yeah that that was dumped off here yeah yeah you know I'm saying how you register a boat that doesn't exist Plus have to do a lot of fiberglass work I have it so you can go to the Sears company in to give this stuff stuff online online way to trace boat ownership cuz I have the old Connecticut registration number on it it's not worth the amount of time energy I'm going to put into this dang thing but I definitely want to get that son of a gun out on the waters got really cool like her front windshields kind of Robin's egg to really Nifty and that the wood is still good it's got a couple of problems like nothing all the Medalist ripped off by freaking scavenger freak shows you people show up at don't put screwdriver to take off little pieces of metal whatever good business I guess whatever point being

why have I have a couple people remember remember Captain Jeff crazy chest in turn key used in Captain one of those rescue boats that can flip over in the water where in order to be on it register. You have to strap yourself to the topside and he's the guy that married the judge and that he had a hearing in front of for some sort of crazy like 200 mile an hour speeding ticket or some nonsense on his motorcycle that's my real story and the guy back when he was in the in the service was I don't know if anyone listening why this person doesn't have some sort of a TV show I have no freaking idea

yeah yeah yeah anyway he went to the French Culinary Institute and so you know he's a he's a cooking guy at as well but I mean man he is like he's like the Long Island version of Duck Dynasty without beard you know what I mean he's like you know I'm saying this but since it's all over I think it's okay. Packing freaking Heat at the French culinary under his wife who are you going to shoot in the head at the French money plenty

anyway so we might as well get to them to decide to cancel again you know I was going to be very favorable towards him on his theories are too serious but like there's some people who have come out kind of against his theories I was talking about him last week and I was going to say all sorts of unpleasant things about them but maybe melody Little no not really you know me excited to talk to him when he comes on but whatever I'm sorry there will be no Paleolithic discussions will be no discussions of division of labor early in humans are discussions of October consumption in Paleolithic in Africa right now tell me tell me tell me

Kevin rice in supporting you actually nastassia for people get all pretzel dip I have a comment and a couple of questions regarding the use of when you see re do you say regarding or do you say r e s evergarden start saying regarding there's a girl dressed in some kind of ancient Garb out there I see someone has to us and she's putting a headpiece on now watch the friend she comes Xena Warrior Princess house, but it's not an enchanted Xena is not ancient that's New Zealand modern okay

hello hello it's Stephen from Indianapolis are you doing all right how you doing

doing great I had a question you brought up I think like two or three weeks ago about the Lockheed bread method

what were you saying sorry I think we might have to do it now and I said I actually have like two breaths going in my closet right now over 18 hours and it's supposed to align in the true the gluten when you're making a in the way of like when you're making stress noodles your lining up the gluten right gluten mature in each situation how's it different

okay well you know what is the series right in the theory of operation here on the on the no need and on a lot of stuff is that actually a lot of what you're doing when you're developing a doe simply isn't necessarily the aligning per se but the actual hydration of the gluten in a long time but that a lot of the strength of gluten is coming from strength of the glue net worth isn't coming from the aligning but rather the hydration and then the bonding of the of the gluten Network right and so that if it sit there and also I mean most of these most of these breads are fairly High hydration rightly what's a hydration ratio on your on your what do you got

so it's 40 grams of flour to grams of water to 75% hydration in inbred language in fact I use this for like a lot of stuff whenever I'm dealing with flowers is a half acre percentage so it's liquid expressed as a percentage of the flower that you put in all it's just over it's just over the flower I mean because you're not counting like you used and saw there any other Adventure at him anyway so they're fairly High hydration right and just by letting them sit around for a long time the gluten hydrates over over hours and formed the network and then usually right now Frank if I'm wrong but even in like the most simple one that you have like an over over over over step inside of the inside of the whatever you're going to do to give it

structure right right right yes until I think that is where like a lot of that stretching is super important is forming the internal structure of the bread frankly that's where like a lot of people kind of fall short within within no need and where McGee if you go back and read Harold Magee's articles on it or article on it in the New York Times I think he's made his main point is the bread is delicious however it's it's not necessarily easy using that technique to get a wide variety of internal structures on the bread right because clearly High hydration and there's not a lot of work whereas if you look at a lot of classic classic bread lot of classic breads there's two things that are going on in the bread their self right and then there's how it's manipulated and only part of that manipulation and I

say from a functional standpoint the least important part of that manipulation is how the bread is kneaded right it's getting into a certain point of development in terms of its gluten structure extremely important right but once you get past that then like different forming techniques take on their relative importance to give us the different shapes of different outside crust textures what the birth looks like when it's / excetera excetera excetera and so most of the criticisms I've heard of these relatively High hydration relatively onward bread is frankly their lack of internal structure

okay so so when you're looking at it's like the difference in structure between like a like a pulled noodle which I actually attempted and it ended up miserably we using a chef Tom recipe

oh yeah yeah I was okay and I tried to and I even did it like like slapping it on the table like they do and you know just to try and relax the gluten making bread it's actually like than eating is is really important in the structure of the Bride because of the way that you're organising including Pastor the proof dough recipe

my mental understanding of what's going on watching people make it right is you have actually an extremely slack doubt there's almost no elasticity of that thing right so in my mind you're dealing with a situation where the gluten has been kind of beat literally beaten into submission right so the structure of the dough is linearized but the actual gluten has been put into some sort of compromised form write clearly because if you take a well-developed dough right and you and you you know that you needed a lot and you push into it to suck it has molasses it it comes back you scratch to scratch his back that's why you know that's why it does that you can stretch it out then because it's elastic but if you just take a big hunk of dough and go shoot it has some it has some kind of pull to it that's what the gluten you know what I'm saying and so it's definitely an overdeveloped dough right now that none.

but on the other hand they why do they need to add why do they add a base to it right here so base as strengthening the gluten I don't know whether that's making it for quicker overdevelopment I really don't understand it but I felt the dough that you've made and it feels dead in your hands right so pulled noodle dough in your hands and I'm sure you felt it too when you when you did it it feels weird and dead you know what I'm saying because it doesn't have that kind of life that like an elastic kind of glutiny you're like app even like throwing up like a pizza dough or some like that would have

so frankly I've never had good luck with that recipe either my feeling is is that pulled noodles is one of those things that once you get it right once or twice you're going to get it right forever you know I'm saying but it's a lot about the hydration and getting the texture exactly exactly right because you know the people I see doing it down near the block from where I live you know I look at them and I don't you know think of them as being like some sort of Dino enlightened Buddha we aren't I mean they're not like some sort of being from on high it is given the knowledge of how to make noodles I think they probably just hung out with someone who knew how to do it and it looks uneven shape Tom who is teaching at the at the cooking school at The Culinary Owens out in San Jose to probably get it right you know what I mean it's all a question of just getting there's some there's something to it to the feel of it.

you just get it right it's going to go but my feeling about it has always been there it's an overdeveloped Udo and so I wouldn't necessarily Universe if you were to take that dough and you are somehow add used to it after you did that to it I don't think it would make white bread

right right right okay and end I guess one more point and sorry I'm sorry for the multiple questions but one more point to it is the difference between the the the stretch doe and Rae, and right they both have bass in them that's what is there such thing as such thing as mechanical denaturation of gluten from an actual chemical standpoint I don't know I do know that if you look at their Farina grass choke they would hook up in measurement devices to mixers basically in measure how much energy was being put into a mixer overtime Indo developments California graph and I think it is Manhattan look at him in years but you look at it and there's definitely a peak force that it takes to mix it and a breakdown stage

that would lead me to believe isn't there some sort of peak development after which there is destruction of that Network whether or not it recovers again anecdotally people say it does not right and there are other there other goes that are that are based on the destruction of the doe structure that most famous in the u.s. being beaten biscuits right so where where where you'll take a doe and you'll just beat the beat the ever-loving snot out of it with a with a rolling pin I went through a period years ago where I was trying to make that dough via repeated lamination instead of actual physical violence and I was never able to get the exact texture through repeated lamination that I was able to get through the just immense physical violence of beating with large sticks

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play David David from California here I doing designing designing a house for me and my family but if you had some tips about kitchen design maybe just whatever comes to your mind all those keep in mind that I'm probably going to be in an all-electric situation so no gas are you like what what area of California and what kind of neighborhood is it

well I'm actually up in the mountains and so we're at six thousand foot altitude and it states they can be cold on Ice you're in the land of sugar pine cones huh are you in the Sierras somewhere or some where are some other mountains in California Southern California if you know where that is induction if you going to go electric to go induction. You know what I'm saying and then get you know your range is going to be fine and doesn't how big is your family

just my wife and a baby Fern for now are you going to try to integrate indoor and outdoor cooking

I'm sorry are you going to do have like an indoor outdoor situation going to try to have some of your cooking take place Outdoors

killing a smoker although I bet you know that's not the fault of what I do what you do what do you like to cook

I'm kind of you know a steak and potatoes kind of guy although I am a deep-fried Maniac like you are up front outside the house like like I like having access from the kitchen to an outdoor place where the cooking is so if you're ever going to do cooking outside like when grilling or the stuff I'm about to talk about you want to have very fluid and easy access between your main kitchen and outside and you want that outside cooking area to have a cover on it right so you either want to build a separate cover for it or you want to have it close to the house where there's an easy that extends over at such that you can work that's what I have and you're going to want to put a deep fryer out there you're going to want an outdoor deep fryer I would run that sucker off of propane which you can get so you don't have to worry about Plumbing gas at the house and since you're not going to use it everyday you can run it off of 20 pound things and is not going to bankrupt you was going to make that suggestion

and take it for what it is but like my my situation like that works great because I have outside of the Tandoor the fryer and like an outdoor Prep Station where I can work at all protected from the rain and I love that it's right next to where my kitchen is not perfect because it wasn't designed but it's pretty good for moving indoor and outdoor getting large amounts of food in and out properly because sometimes will be cooking outside and eating inside and vice-versa all that other stuff inside I would definitely go out at 100% go induction the main thing I would like worry about is I don't know how you were you know your relationship with your spouse is or what they like but the fight usually is between between visit Cooks in the non-toxic between visible exposed storage of things and closed in I'm a huge advocate for trying to have as much non and clothes storage as is humanly possible and throwing away

as many non-matching things as as as is humanly possible in this usually comes at odds because people think it's it's ugly also if you don't cook a lot exposed storage gets dusty but if you do cook a lot and you do what I do which is you I have like four sizes of bowl and I only have those four sizes of stainless steel bowl and they stack and you're always pulling the one on top so it never gets dusty you what I'm saying you have to dust the shelves and stuff but they did the things themselves never get Dusty so I'm a huge advocate of that here's another one build a build a speed rack not a Barbie Radford like one of those cooling racks that that tray tray rack speed rack that you can put a sheet trays in to build one of those if you ever like entertaining build one of those into your kitchen I have one that's on casters and it can roll in and out and I have one if you know it in my apartment that doesn't and you can just your house when you're cooking you have like a bunch of food

and you can't get that food out of the way to cook the next round of food if you're doing like a party or something like this with you have one of those rack trade you can just you can just shoot up entirely huge amount of stuff and throw it into the sheet rack while you're working on the next thing or like if you're like me and let's say you make Christmas cookies and I don't know what you do but let's say you like me to make Christmas cookies you want to make a whole bunch of Christmas cookies normally they seem to be spread all over your house will be a freaking nightmare while you're making them but if you have one of these speedrack things you can just start throwing the sheet trays into a Trey after tray after tray after tray so I make sure that your oven can handle a full size sheet tray because it's just so versatile if you're ever going to do entertaining I would electric I would then I would if I were you I would use that would go into someplace whatever Avenue going to get I will go in and use it a couple times like I hate hate a lot of the control functions on Modern Electric ovens

princess like I haven't like I one of my ovens as an electric oven right you know what I use it for music for 80% of the time warming warming 80% of the time it's warming oven so like I'll be cooking a bunch of stuff in my Tandoor or on the grill or I'll have like a whole bunch of Pancakes that I'm making on The Griddle and I want to keep them warm but every time that I every time that I want to use the oven to keep it warm it takes me 35 to 45 seconds to turn it on and turn the temperature down because they know they assume that when you press go on your oven you wanted to 350 and so to make it say 170 of a sit there forever with your finger on a button hate hate so I would look into things like that

actually if you can believe it Dave I have a cvap oh yeah it depends on how sustainable you want to be right one of my dreams and no one has ever done it in fact although it's not Neil Armstrong Louis Armstrong musician right had it had a what's it called dishwasher not dishwasher commercial dishwasher is right why doesn't anyone make a commercial dishwasher that has a residential mode that says hey look it I have an hour to sit here while you wash dishes right and you can be eco-friendly blah blah and quiet all Bosch like you know I'm saying and then but I have a party that's 30 people here I need to press it and they're clean and a minute-and-a-half like a commercial dishwasher after that men and a half during the party ya tremendous energy waste but it's only for that short amount of time

why does nobody build that David by two dishwashers what a freaking waste of kitchen space to dishwashers is what's the only way to get around it if you were partymaster because you either you're going to wind up like your Kik is going to fill a dishes and I'm seeing them really rich people yeah but they're not good for normal use because they're entirely so you have to have a commercial and then you have to have a glasses if you have to have a commercial and then you have to make a residential unless you hate the environment do you hate the environment assassin I don't know he was in California is not allowed to tell you know I'm saying

yeah but residential dishwasher is running for an hour yesterday isn't so much more efficient there's so much more efficient than it seems like they're very eco-friendly compared with and they use a lot less power such a question you going to get 220 volts or thank you Jonathon Sawyer the shepherd what's the restaurant the Cleveland he's got one

I know what it's so freaking easy because someone like Hobart also like can make stuff for home just like just a team up with a home person charged 3 times as much how many how much more energy I mean it's like a lot more there is completely not efficient person they're bad for your dishes because they're running super hot and they have like a little boiler that keeps all that water out the tremenda temperatures are just but they're freaking monsters huh right and the other thing about him that's nice is that if you have parties a lot like I have like your looks depressing right commercial glass racks are awesome because you have glasses that you're only going to use it parties right so you put him in commercial glass racks and they're so close to fitting in a regular residential

freaking dishwasher so if you just like modified in a little bit you can store all of your party glasses in racks you can live like a normal human 90% of the time and then rack and roll when you're putting in a hat and parties in on him saying whatever that's life big city

hello from Virginia on if you have any advice to control bubble size when carbonated carbonated filled out of a CO2 tank to tank through at the hose in the account and which way do you want them to go really small like Perrier and I would like to get them larger towards like Topo Chico size ideal Chuck

for a given liquid for a given liquid bubble size is going to be determined 100% by the amount of CO2 that is in the beverage and the temperature that it's at in other words like how fast the CO2 is leaving is going to determine the bubble size so one thing to do is to get your ear of CO2 your CO2 dissolve none of us are the pressure carbonating at but getting a dissolved CO2 level to be much higher so ways to do that are to make it colder or to make it clearer or to carbonate it multiple times or more times and you're doing now with a lot of foaming off in between to make sure that you're getting the maximum amount of CO2 in there so if you have your thing anyway that's it for like 15-20 minutes if you reattach your CO2 tank and start shaking it again and you hear the gas going from the

into your beverage it means that you haven't fully added as much CO2 that beverage as is possible okay so within a given beverage the bubble size will be determined by those things and efferent neuron temperature just think about when you crack open a cold Seltzer vs. when you crack open a warm cells are in the bubble size difference they're just because the bubbles are leaving at a tremendously faster rate and so the bubbles get bigger as they're traveling from the bottom to the top of the glass really wants a bubble form its size is pretty much dependent on a the characteristics of the liquid which were going to talk about a minute and how fast CO2 is leaving the liquid and going into that bubble in the short time it has from when it forms near the bottom of your glass to when it burst on the surface of the liquid right okay so now we've dealt with those kind of physical fact there's a liquid itself so things like salt the larger that they dissolve mineral content and in it that he kind of smaller the bubble burst

when is going to be in the size of the bubbles going to be that's why I like a lot of Fairly carbonated like very mineralized water don't appear to be that bubbly even though there actually is a lot of CO2 in them I'm talking to you and the other thing that's going to alcohol content so if you want larger bubbles you lower the alcohol content or anything like that that affects the surface activity of the liquid right foot so you know it is increasing alcohol content will decrease the surface tension and increase the viscosity until your bubbles will start a larger infomir right so at least that's my been a while since I think it's right things first is that make sense

let us know how works

be able to take regarding the use of torture to mean sandwich in Mexican Cuisine and just so you know this is from Kevin and he's defending the stassia hammer Lopez Kevin defending stars like she needs someone to defend her eyebrows please Tour de definitely mean sandwich in Mexico to mean something like a Fritter / Patty

that was not what you said it's how you said let him learn your kids stubs that stuff they're telling my mom on which is basically a whipped egg and ground shrimp mix that's a pan fried had that never really thought about how a torta refers to both until your sandwich conversation this week to like those things never had those I think they're made with dry but they're good it's like they're like I've had them at least a style that comes from Guerrero they're good I like them but they're not a sandwich

they're not even Open Face Sandwich which as we all know it's not a sandwich here's the question about people cooking ethnic food of a culture that is not their own there was a recent NPR article on this at work where Rick Bayless was featured in my friend asked me if there's a certain form / presentation that differentiates high end food from queen bee in food what are your thoughts on this

well I don't know what are your thoughts on that says I don't know if you don't have thoughts of Nick food right why is it at this is what I get out of it why is it that said that a lot of times it can be seen as low and or why is it difficult sometimes to go high-end with certain ethnic Cuisines and furthermore why why is it that some presentations are seen as an eyebrow and summer seen as lowbrow when you're going to like like many years ago and even recently you go to like a French restaurant and they do something that is like they put five spice powder on it right they go they go Asian and that sort of very very kind of pedestrian Santa been putting five spice powder on it like all of a sudden like for a lot of taste for a lot of consumers it's going to get knocked a couple of pegs down in refinement in their minds if it

associate certain flavor pallets and they associate certain cooking techniques and presentations with less expensive in a little bit regarding Mexican Cuisine when I got back from Mexico and we were out upset that there's no way you're ever going to have those flor de calabaza freaking quesadillas like you have a Mexico because no stupid idiot America I love Americans but no none of us are smart enough to pay what it would cost to have those kind of whereas Italian is allowed to be simple rustic and refined at the same time not to level like French right but everyone knows that you're paying for these fancy ingredients and so you'll pay a lot for something simple if it's gotten Italian league wanted to pack makes all the time cheap cheap tacos Cheat Lake where are the best cheap tacos that's a question everybody asks right and a lot of money

on something that they don't feel is that different from nothing it's like perceive difference and perceived value so the question is how do you get someone so at that Empire Casino my friends dance he's not doing you no really it's not really Mexican food inspired by that stuff but it's like you can see the presentation work on the plate and that guy and the kind of work until it gets to jump into a high note to a high-level kind of situation to her or if you go like nastase and I were at called me last week on Ricoh Vera's restaurant here in New York and you know and so there I think they successfully are there are jumping to a high-end presentation bus because it's a bunch of stuff that no one here has ever tasted before right ingredients of the never tasted before some of the stuff you know makes sense like tortillas right but they are but a lot of the stuff is is is you know not the flavor palette that people are used to and so there they can take the jump out of their mind and Neo not like Americans and I may be people

the world are necessarily smart enough to understand a very very well-executed plate of beans being worth a lot of money right I mean the exception is risotto for some reason people realize it risotto is difficult and so you can spend a lot of money on like a risotto Alla minute billing ASAP and not feel ripped off rights does you know Danny bowien at Mission Chinese right so like Chinese food other than banquet Cuisine that you wear your spending money just on really really expensive materials like sharks fan Andy I'm not that you should got any obviously you shouldn't. Rohr bird's nest or sea cucumber or any one of these other things like you know it's hard to get people to spend a lot of money on that in the you if it tastes traditional I mean I think that was a genius of someone like Danny at Mission Chinese was having it be not that it's that expensive compared to what we are what we think of as high high-end but

it's like having something being so not what you're used to tasting in that category so different from what you would get at the standard restaurants that it gets to punch through that barrier and go on the other side tangent I just bought a whole bunch of Sichuan peppercorns got him at home I find enjoyable and I'm missing all like all the other questions I have to answer but something I didn't understand Chinese did you know that and so like they use it for a bunch of presentations but because I had the Wood Fired Up and they can't they make these pizzas there right these kind of like neapolitan-style kind of pizzas and then they making with pepperoni on it and it for a while after I know it has like why do they why do they do that right why do they have those pizzas there because if not in

with the rest of the menu doesn't really make sense from a mental point on the menu right and then I went there with my kids and I was like this is the smartest freaking thing that anyone has ever done at a restaurant and I think restaurant owners take note of like it's hard to step outside of yourself right and what you do for a living by think this is the kind of like where it may not that and give me the face could not like Sandy needs anyone or that those who need anyone's blood blowing extra sunshine and their nether regions but I think they're really good at what they do you know what I mean and

like I never would have thought to do that there because it in a way like you don't know that you have permission and quote to make that kind of food at that restaurant but then now I can shuffle a shovel as much mapo tofu in my mouth as I care to shove in my mouth and my kids are sitting there eating pizza and they're happy as clams right answer and then they want to go back makes life so much more enjoyable if you have kids you know I'm saying you should see you next week

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