Cooking Issues Transcript

Episode 168: Columbo & Fishsticks

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finally back in Bushwick yes I was back in the studio and Studio shoes just with stars on the phone

I heard like we used up all of the all of the phone line someone tried to call in I heard later if someone tried to call in and they couldn't because of the whole you know we were just sucking that crap up

Moses what is Radio to Media stuff to listen let's say you have a job I don't know what your listen to this on your phone or something why don't you instead of live tweeting your questions and you can tweet a question to Moses at at Heritage Radio iHeartRadio Heritage underscore radio radio Moses will read it to me on the air and then we'll go from there or call your questions to 718-497-2128

minor minor about of the surgery at all happens to us as well as we get older but the number of days I couldn't really do anything and I was like an insane amount of Columbo and there's anything like wait what did you what La Stars by the way from the LA area so this is like not what what La based TV shows did you watch if any

Melrose Place all my first of all okay for those you out there it's a little bit slower than modern kind of mystery things because people had attention spans back in the 70s but Colombo is like the greatest character ever by one of my favorite actors of all time Peter falk's was I will you play baseball and like if you didn't like to call Hillary pop his glass eye out so sweet

what's awesome about it is it Colombo is like a study in 1970s kind of class Warfare show Columbo is this detective whose like you can use rumpled he's got the I got the code on a crappy Pujols that like no one else drives it's like all beat up and mangle and kind of real rumpled mess things going on all of the murderers really rich really smart really snooty some combination of town with his like insane like logic he's like the detective version of a Socrates was also an ugly man by the ugly man and kind of you know like kind of weird show amazing but there's kind of there's one that I really want to focus on the reason I bring it up on cooking issues because otherwise what we talked about in season 7

which is the last one in 1978 there's an episode to watch you have to watch murder under glass Mike's Pratt like in the 70s where the stick is that this guy not going to ruin it for you about why but all of these are getting murdered murdered using the techniques that that are used to make their signature dishes right so I'll give you I'll give you one of the signature dishes pressed duck I'll leave it there Prescott ice cream cheese for like seeing a particular style of food manufacturer

more because they're putting it in a movie format not that common movies that we look at it to see kind of crazy over-the-top food stuff would be what like La Grande bouffe which has a man Marcello mastroianni where they are eating each other to that they eat they themselves to death but it's not really the Peter eaters which is the right time when you were when you were twelve would take to watch a movie and have a lot of times I don't get that trap New York crap I don't have a movie this movie's been up since before you were freaking boring Stars

all right you choose not to watch I choose not to watch it that's much more reasonable anyway. Time for freaking you know like like whatever I'm not going to get into it but the Melrose Place really time worthy Pursuit right there anyways we can maybe facilitate This and like I was going to I have to do the same Toronto Film Festival the movie that I'm a mess of food-based movie and like all the good ones that like Willy Wonka which is like one of my all-time or Charlie traffic on the other one I love that

one of God's amazing chocolate dwarves mazing Scott Jean I know you love you shaking head of a down to give me the happy Styles face which is really see which I like Charlton Heston right but you seen that movie Soylent Green is everyone eating this food and to me it's made of people and a sweater crushing people up in this kind of futuristic thing and then turn them into food to feed other people hello it's called perpetual motion machine that can't work that can't work at the time these pyramid scheme you can't trust people to feed people because like you know almost right away

figure out how much food you eat every day you don't even over the course of a year at me like he just unsustainable I mean I just don't waste waste the meat policy maybe but not as an actual like a regular occasion to start eating each other no one makes it out alive it's not a situation where you know it's like all of today and then tomorrow we'll quit now it doesn't work that way back to my book so in this murder under glass at that the murderer is a restaurant critic in San Francisco and La I guess in the in the 70s in the late seventies 1978 and Colombo is like because he's solving the murder of one of the great Chefs of the of the community they're all the other ships feed him amazing food and the entire episode is one

amazing long kind of foodporn from the 70s and it's kind of food that you don't see you know now it is for the for the most part and was really awesome. It was like the breath of crazy stuff for instance they had Fugu in it from you in Japanese food and who the hell of a 70s Republic but not only did they talk about it now I do they have a puffer fish there but they serve a full-on food course at the spinner that they had and it was done right you guys ever seen a plate of food

I seen it on The Simpsons actually did they do it right it's like they look like feathers on those like this is kind of stretchy and it's almost like these kind of like feathered out when I get large kind of circular plate and spit it out and almost I got like a like a like a dahlia kind of a factor like a peacock kind of effect we're like the pieces are kind of overly tan each other and feathered up damn it I did it like dead on the poison of choice in this in this Columbo episode but then they had like a bunch of stuff with back in the 70s was wearing the US flag but then he goes to a dinner at a French restaurant and they fussed out all of the sick like present presentation stuff from like some of my favorite books so and this is what they do a rock lobster that's been eviscerated cook and then the meat layered in aspic and decorate it all down look down the back of it

I speak with truffles like so you have to look like what we talked about because you're reading another book right now another old book reading a book that I was reading on the subway on the way over here right now instead of paying attention what's going on we got to call her

hey how you doing my name is linen guayabera yeah hell yeah hell yeah I got my I got my my Spanish Boss Hogg my El Jefe de cerdo outfit on a what's up to a previous episode of you're done where you'd mentioned you went to see if there's any places you have a question I was like making sushi at home but I don't like purchasing like expensive sushi grade tuna that's wondering what level of contamination you think there is if I was to go to Whole Foods and just by their fish make it with that well I mean I'm sure if you see a piece of tuna

that Sushi tuna good that tuna that is used the high-end tuna that she was out there for her for sushi it has as much or more Mercury as anything else that you're going to get right because they're all kind of unsustainably captured and the first question is the first question is whether or not you want to actually deal in the market with that because it's seriously seriously seriously over fake right now but in terms of the Mercury like that the issue with any sort of Pop chain Predator fish like at like a tuna is that as long as they're eating stuff in the wild that their bio accumulator so that the bigger they are they are these kind of thing is they're getting younger haven't had the time to bioaccumulate as much mercury

as far as bacterial contamination also you shouldn't be too much of an issue with a whole muscle fish because bacteria is only going to get into the inside of the face where it's been jabbed or or Pope so now you got two remaining questions and that is the quality of the fish in general and then the second thing is the actual kind of taste quality so what happens to fish as it gets too old is that it starts oxidizing it starts losing its properties and that's where it's kind of like in terms of muscle quality the actual taste muscle quality texture and the oxidative stress that the muscle has gone through that's where they're really expensive tuna is going to start breaking free from their less expensive tuna right so like a really really fancy piece of tuna not only is it like a high-quality muscle but it's been treated right friends dance like to know that is disgusting to become Sushi they usually there in a farm which is a misnomer

capture wild tuna and then they fatten them up in pain but they what they do is they send divers out everyday to divert around in the pools Lisa used to the pools with harpoons all all day everyday and then they would David hit him with the saying which gives him an electric the electric bill is very finely tuned to not snap the spine so it's not the spine or at yours to Violet. Kind of ruins that section of the meat in terms of its marketability then they bring the fish on board and they perform where they put the needle through the spine that do the bleed out and put them so all of those effects tend to increase a muscle quality greatly but they also tend to increase the price so they're only going to do that kind of work on tuna that's destined for a high-end kind of a sushi operation

the texture of the flesh is going to be a lot better in that situation also when you're dealing with tuna especially the fatty or portions which are you so kind of you know like underneath and forward on the tune up like those those pieces you want to leave them whole as long as possible because any time they're supposed to oxygen to go under oxidative stress so if you have someone in Whole Foods is planking that's takes out like you know like you know the day before something like that then all of a sudden you get a lot more oxidation on that surface of the fish it's not the oils are going to taste good not as big of a deal in like the leaner cuts of tuna but a much bigger deal in the fatty or cut the tuna is that make sense

Jeff Fisher so you can definitely do it but another thing to do is to just go find whatever kind of like local speeds looking so many species of fish are actually good for sashimi and for sushi but they're just you know they're not used so widely because maybe they're not available in your pet you know what I mean and so they just maybe haven't been used to to great effect yet because it's not a culture of it so I don't know what's coming in right now in in Florida that considered and and sustainable find something that comes in off of you know add a boat there that you know it's kept I like on Ice the entire time and then I started getting grouper that they actually feel is like sustainable to harvest or no

I want me like they do all wild tigers and it's not quite sustainable yet but I mean it is

I usually take on a like I am usually more concerned about the contamination more than anything else that you especially if you can see the whole fish if you can see the whole fish before they before they chop it up I mean like you know what date what they always taught me and I still believe what is it you know you can if you if you can look at the gills and the eyes then you can trust a fish you don't I'm saying so if you're so it's like we are eyes and bright start going like that's when you know that you're you know you're not dealing with your dealing with clients been sitting around a while so you know although

free. That's generally what it what I look for so if you if you have the ability to check out the gills in the end and eyes you know then whether or not you could tell also like I see a lot of fish that even know it's fresh and got the hell beat out of it on the boat you know what I mean is that you can see that the body is all mangled and like you can see like like Spike damage from Impact damage on the sides and fish and You Know It official be fresh but it won't necessarily the muscle in that area won't necessarily be as good and it's also indicative of other stress V probably went through during catching Slaughter that might lead to deterioration of qualities that when you were in both are the Buffalo region eat dinner with the chef Jeremiah bullfrog

so you're obviously I like I like him we just eating as much kind of rare fruit as is humanly possible and so you know down in South Dade I was going to be the fruit and spice Park which I think is amazing and then I also trying to go to the Fairchild to eat as much of the mango stuff that they had at as they had a possible and you know I even went to what's that place called Stars Roberts remember that Fruit Stand light to Roberts fruit fruit on their side like literally I was just soaking in fruit and then like my actual meals cuz my family went down with me is like you know that

my wife like me when I'm especially with my kids are there when they're they're like I don't really go out to any kind of fancy stuff I go to what's easy for for the kids and then spend most of my kind of research time on I like the rare fruits you can't get you know what I mean and you always been very helpful and you giving me such great I have my family in Peru I'd love to send you other something from there or from GERD just give me depressed I love to send it someday I'll someday I'll get to go to Peru it's like you know what are the obviously great culinary it was one of the great culinary stops in the world these days and you know it's just I haven't been able to go yet someday a parent Lee it's just everyone tells me that it's amazing and just getting better and better mean

really was so you know so I have your handle and we'll we'll stay in touch on that cooking issues

we'd like to send a special thank you to my latest business member seersucker Sears Center is at 40 seat neighborhood spot inspired by the food and Hospitality of the South chef-owner Robert Newton who hails from Arkansas has crafted Cuisine inspired by his childhood favorites and the Carroll Street greenmarket across the street he relies upon small local farms in Indy purveyors for many of these ingredients so the menu changes frequently based on what's available end in season searsuckers beer Wine and Spirits list is All American with an emphasis on New York State learn more by visiting their website seersucker brooklyn.com to learn more about becoming a business member email us info at Heritage Radio Network. Org

I see that now I thought seersucker I was going to go buy some seersucker suits and that's why I was even more groovin on the whole Boss Hog thing that I was wearing like you know that the guayabero because I thought we were like all the sudden word like going to be dressed in seersucker suits we could go to Searsucker dressed in seersucker is the cocktail which is kind of New Orleans like me no booze soaked debauch cocktail thing that they don't we all have to go to every year if you're in the business be like one of the things you're supposed to eventually do is wear seersucker happened to me twice if someone is poured a freaking likes painting cocktail on me during that they're in that event week week so both my both my both my seersucker jackets are there kind of kind of where you said I thought we agreed that you were going to wear that anymore

Riverhead one jacket that have been Tuesday and that I really love and you're like I wore it to some shooting stars like I thought we had agreed

I was going to get into some book so I do have one request I was not proven if anyone out there you guys from the sweet gum tree Sweetgum anyone know one from New England check when you grow up again it's got a leaf that looks a little bit like a maple but not a drops a little Dash love sweet gum trees because he sucks on the on the lazy like it has a page that has a flavor would you like some flavor have a sweet gum leaf and he really talk like that because he's a little so he didn't get his voice a little more sweet gum tree as I can't pronounce things so in its that liquid liquid is the name of that thing but you can

resin from the sweet gum tree that supposed to be sweet and like good to kind of chew but I I don't have the ability to harvest any other because I don't have land with my own trees that I can kind of section to Berkeley Lake dripping you harvest in the dries out I think in terms of this kind of sweet thing but if anyone who can hear the sound of my voice has access to some sweet gum resin I will gladly buy some cuz I'm dying to try it and it should have already happened by now because I think they probably do it in may we know March April may I ask who knows what the season that we had now but I should be similar season I would guess to win to win Maple twin Maple flow is although I don't know like you know call in and tell me like how you make it to us one more information one of those like weird ingredients that really does have it

and you know and some other looking up never had an actual American persimmon you ever had won the wild American persimmon anyone has access I would like some and I will pay for them another one is I don't know if there are any but I'd love to try act like a natural American Chesney from over to Chestnut the destruction and Chestnut Tree did you know that the American chestnut was favored over all other chestnuts in terms of in terms of its taste and the wood that's what was one of the most common forest trees in all of in all of the United States and in the span of 30 years both the Chestnut and the update from either China or Europe or some combination of China and Europe and so the American chestnut tree is wiped out because of the tree and then

like go underneath the top Ark layer around to where the growing in the in the transportation was an asylum grow all the way around. Chestnut trees are interesting because they ground sprout a lot so what you would happen is that the main tree with die then you get little trees that would come up they would survive for 10-15 years seem like this then they would die that would happen again and again and again so there are American chestnut trees but now they're kind of an understory tree is there a real one but I don't know if any of those produce nuts of anyone has access to an American chestnut I will gladly pay you for it also butternuts American it's not the season when let me know before we talk about the books which is why we get to some of the questions

Chris Road in I tried fitting the aquarium to a tweet about your on travel today so I'll try and email I do a 10% brine first for texture and prevent protein does rabbit in birch-bark seeds then oil to soften and kill the nasty is in the birchbark then sous-vide a 50c for 30 minutes makes a nice presentation when I'm guessing it's odd because he says he wants a double down on the cloud from this where we left off last week because turns out Stars what is it that you hate

warm everything warm Fishbones Seafood

like acanela seafood movies like what could be more delicious what about a seafood sausage

holy crap you mean if I tell if I took like I did it just being nice because you've had it before it was Mark say about you not liking for poached fish mousse

I don't like it whip and I don't like it hot you don't like cooked fish very much but you like cooked fish as an ingredient like anchovies

salt Cod can you think of salt Cod is more of an ingredient

yeah I guess so have you had the fritters to bacalaito spreaders you might be willing to try that because the fish is more of an ingredient and less of a Maine thing she might also be like mashed potatoes

real it's not about it's about being like an ingredient now a fish mousse you feeling it's going to be too much like like a cooked fish but you had it before I could even come up how do you how do they come up that you don't like cooked fish what about what about fish sticks know what the gross they're not gross that you can make them gross there can be gross fish sticks but like fried of delicious fried battered fish done well is like a revelation it's one of God's Great foodstuffs battered fried fish mean Moses cat is not much better than

maybe you don't like fried tilapia because tilapia is garbage in swimming garbage you know or maybe you know you've had like a bad fried catfish that tastes like 30 I can't tell but like a like a well-done like battered and fried I'll take your Whitefish like and I like like you know play some is now because you think it takes like it when you were a kid yeah I just don't like fried fish

all right

back to the question I was the show's over I mean I don't even understand how do you add a product like that but even likes fried fish are sending everybody to actually

what I understand is how do you grow up liking something and then all the sudden not like it anymore like did a fry fish beat the crap out of your boyfriend to prom what the hell happened you know what I mean it's like how do you can stop liking fried fish it's not that she's a vegetarian my friends because that would I could say okay she just gave up fish altogether but this lady pound Sushi and Crudo like like she could take the whole freaking ocean down if she wanted to so it's not a question of that mean

back to the question heavy cream 253 hydrated chopped potatoes cooked brain well I better smile of going to put it through an EZ because anything can clogged and easy even like little like anal too much vanilla seeds can you know if you get it pumpkins club music

Ford service I want hot with cream texture from there so I just ran into an AC and charged with n2o I hold it at 50 degrees Celsius or 17 or change in texture it comes out well enough and attractive phone somewhere between shaving foam shaving foam and whipped cream so the heat is causing the phone Matrix to destabilize and collapse are happy thanks Chris I don't want to work if you got to do the agar when I recommend you do is you make a fluid gel of the agar just a little bit in water to 1% fluid gel in water and a dope that in only going to need a little bit to stabilize what

what you're doing most likely or if you want you can make an agar fluid gel with the whip with the cream itself but don't make it too stiff in that case he wanted like kind of look like a lighter fluid gel somewhere in the end in the range of like like I 7th power so I would say maybe like five grams per liter on the cream 5 to 7 grams per liter try somewhere in there that are agar agar and then add to it but here's the big issue whenever you're doing an isi with a fluid gel remember that it will hold itself in the isi and the crap out of it Nevada Prep because it needs to be otherwise it's not a fluid ounces of Sharjah crystals it don't look good also put your finger over the over the East sea whip over the dispensary

every time you going to dispense flick down and that'll make sure that all of the fluid gel gets slapped down to where the dispensing nozzle is so that you can dispense properly otherwise kind of No Love but either those two things I should work by without without too much trouble because all you're looking to do is hot stabilizing and agar will hot stabilize easily up to 70° so I wouldn't go much higher because they are going to start to melt in around 285 in 80 range but like if you are using a circulator to hold it at 7 Allison Toronto rights in the radio but maybe we'll put it on the only thing I'll say a video using a cheap using the cheap vacuum

wine Savers in the video claims to create an infusion in about 5 minutes similar to a 24-hour infusion atmospheric pressure if this is true isn't the only slightly slower than and here is the link in this will be useless to you HTTP HTTP colon forward forward YouTube TV l p u l b j w Well turns out I watch this video and stars you will not believe who did the video it's our boy is awesome I love that guy he's like his eyes are giant plowing friend and he works now for the Food Network so if you look up Food Network Food Network like you know I don't know

you should be able to find this video and Clifford actually was one of our interns back if they even though I believe size is exact word when when there is a butt like three or four people came that first day when he was there right and quit Cliff like just like my grandma would letting everybody in what you said

Cliff so I still still throwing some still throwing some slow down on your grandma

I take people in and help say no help for people and stuff wasn't any guy shows up and it's a horrified so I can't believe it and then at the same time like being so mean to him before and by the way Cliff extremely awesome guy like you know artist and like you know that's not the case anyways so yes so the the using the vacuum and as an infusion technique is a technique developed a long time ago at the French culinary and by Clifford is using it to good effect to make a sangria and you actually I looked at the video he's got some elaboration technique that I don't because similar to like the way I

like doesn't pay attention right right obviously like stars is not paying attention right now it like literally right now so I was not paying attention

so they can multitask you can't multitask that's why I like that's why I last week on the radio is like his daughter know I didn't hear you because I was trying to do any of that they're getting nothing done their code 0 tasking if the new thing that I want people to be aware of in the world nowadays where people try to do so many damn things they actually do nothing like the fact that people are buried in their freaking phone which I hate they're burying their freaking phone and when you're burying your phone right I guarantee you that the person that you're now texting when you're with them you're burying your phone texting me it makes no damn sense note asking this is why people get frustrated with me they hate me because I don't ever answer emails I don't return telephone calls or any stuff and the reason is because when I'm with you I'm with you anyway because I'm old I'm freaking old back to Clifford she doesn't say the wine and some fruit juice and some sugar it back in the wine bottle

and at the trick the whole trick when you're using the vacuum van to infuse things is to chop things small enough so that they can fit into the wine bottle and so you can shake him back out again and then he then what I like about is he he basically beat you over the head which I think is why because as I said people aren't paying attention so he tells you to suck suck suck suck suck some more sex more and then

the vacuum and you don't talk to myself what am I talking about when you're done sucking sucks and more which I appreciate this is good advice from Clifford but then he has his technique where he says to lay it on its side to him if you know what you're doing there by the way with the vacuum and is you're just good at sucking a vacuum like in terms of the actual absolute level of vacuum that can suck at the advantage that you have if you suck 4 minutes at a time on it is that you're constantly drawing are out of the fruit in this case he put apples into the same way you're constantly drawing are out entire time we're doing it and so even though you never get a very good vacuum you're constantly removing air from the bottle and therefore you're sucking more and more are out this is what allowing infusion to happen is the fact that you let the air out so they rested on its side and I really know the next time I talked to Cliff I don't know why he tells you to rest a bottle on its side that's kind of like the elaboration that I didn't buy it hadn't thought about before

no I did it we used to agitate is shaking back and forth I don't know why you live outside anyways I'm sure he's got a good reason you were that's better for surface area contact ratio to make this any pop pop it when she didn't show me pop it that's when the actual sangria stuff is getting injected in and then if you want you can actually suck another round on it but I guess they have food at work and want to do that because there's too much instruction by the yes I didn't technically can use no it's not quite as good as a commercial vacuum machine by sure beats nothing and it's not also quite the same as I finish packing machine we didn't but I did it at the vacuum few sangria right cuz what does better with shooting guns and some sangria beer beer but then in the summer if you didn't want to be here like if you'd already had a beer you want something else and you were going to shoot

sangria might be a nice choice about guns and sangria for it

stars of the show

we will talk about it later like the fact that matter is is that target shooting is fun no I just never done that sounds fun

if I had a chance again I hadn't thought about that cuz I've haven't been watching the news so probably a bad time to talk about it in the books that I was talking about the Columbo episode reminded me of where the modern French culinary art which is a version of the Pella Pratt book he was the guy who started the Cordon Bleu cooking school in the 1800 and he wrote this book which I think came out in the twenties or thirties at the end of his career and it's kind of one of the key kind of cookbooks it's awesome fact Japan listed as one of his favorite possessions with his pellet Pratt when he was an apprentice in his book The Apprentice amazing cookbook fantastic and the best Edition for English speakers that I've ever seen is the one that was put out in the 70s by virtue and Co and I bought it back in the day of the Strand strand

Book Store Benton AR like 15-20 years ago wasn't air-conditioned until you walked in there never was viciously mean to you and but they're also wasn't a lot like things were really cheap though they were like half price off the cover and there wasn't a lot of searching about and trying to figure out the true value of a book and books everyone telling it back dance I would go to the Strand and search out good addition to Luis because all the different and I've bought Without Really knowing Paula Pratt and this this issue Edition from virtue and it is freaking amazing it's got all of those pictures in it and all those pictures were shot in the seventies and so it's kind of this amazing window into his book that was written in the 30s twenties and thirties with like all the color pictures that you get from 7500 mango very much because it was not it had been to the Wheel of Life was amazing

I then saw there other books buffets in receptions which is oh my God that is like you have to see this book from the 70s and then the new international confectioner Musa three kind of books from and they're still ridiculously cheap and then I went out and bought I'll just this morning because these books are most people are collectible yet so they still extremely cheap awesome and French books which you should have interesting cuz I got sick records meet the meat dishes in the international cuisine I just bought that for two bucks cost me $11 to ship from England garnishing and decoration I don't know if that one is good but I bought it to shellfish The Complete Book of meat and the only one that's so far as collectible herring picture of classical and modern witch

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